I have been chasing an electrical fault for ages - ignition on try to start - then a drain on all power. Chased every wire on an FI. 1996 RK - just found this on my bike. At I now know what the fault is!!!!! Thanks for posting this video
1996 Carb FLTHC - I was on my 2nd new battery and couldn't figure out why my battery was dying . The stator tested fine, I preemptively replaced the voltage regulator and didn't think it was likely I got 2 bad batteries. I stored it for the winter at the local Indian Dealership as the Harley dealerships in Milwaukee will not work on pre-1999 bikes (without manager approval). Ok, mini rant over... Anyway, the Indian mechanics found this same exact issue. I have to say the picture they sent me was stunningly similar to your video. I wish I would have seen this video a few months ago as it would have saved me some money. I am going to binge watch all your videos as even though I've ridden for close to 30 years, I learn something from each video. Thanks Doc!
I’ve got an 03 Heritage Softail Classic from a dealer dealer nearby and took it in for service because I was taking a 1500 mile round trip and they told me the bike was too old and they couldn’t touch it,06 and older,I told em they shouldn’t of sold me something that wasn’t gonna get worked on when needed,fuckers
I just replaced the ignition on my 91 Evo 1200 Sportster..the bike never gave me any trouble in oven 15 year's...just died last week on the way home...63$ and about a half-hour she's running...I can't complain the bike is 30+ year's old..this is the first time I've ever had any issues with it . I do all my own work on all my car's truck's and of course my bikes...
I discovered this years ago on my 98 Softail. Didn't leave me stranded, when I changed the cam I noticed the milky crap, the stuff was completely gone from the ignition. It's funny this video came up for me, just yesterday I had to show the owner of the 92 Sportster I'm working on how his is all melted away.
Been there before. It's not fun being on the side of the road, wondering, is it the fuel, spark plugs, or any other thing. Finally found it after testing every other thing.
Thank you very much for this video mate. Ive recently had this start happening and initially thought cam seal and where the hell is the water contamination coming from but videos like this make things so easy. Please keep it up with everything you can. Cheers
Excellent. Same thing has happened to me. Stuck roadside in 100 degrees for multiple hours trying to fix it! Thought it was VOES so bypassed as was getting no spark when hot. Bike would intermittently rev up and down then die. Disassembled air cleaner and carb roadside as thought it may be a vac leak, after deliberation decided it must have been the ignition, opened it up to find exactly as shown in the video - taking delivery of a Dyna 2000i today!
Thank you Doc. Same on my 98 heritage Springer. Bike still runs , that butter scotch melted and hardened back up. I bet she runs better with a new one .
Love the attention to detail ... I always have mine serviced at my local H-D dealership here in south jersey. Thanks for the helpful tips. Enjoy your day
thanks, doc, I've seen it many times on others motorcycles. I still have points in my shovel, and although electronic single-fire is better I'll keep the points.
Thanks again Doc. My 1999 FATBOY is showing signs of this same issue. I’m getting ready to rebuild the carburetor I’m going to change this also while I have it down. Great channel Doc. I really enjoy all your tips.
I have an all in one ignition module there. It to gets hot. Failure sucks. Expensive too. I have taken to spacing out the cover to catch wind flow. Years now no failure. Its not as pretty. But it works. Thought about drilling a dome cover.
Hey Doc great info as usual.I have an 82 fxr shovel same problem.I am ready to install new but cant get the wires out of the connector to install the new pickup.Any help would be appreciated;Thanks
Nice to see a dealer that fixes carbs. Here in the Okanagan our harley dealer wont touch carbs cause they don't know how to fix them. That's their words...not mine.
I have a 1997 FXDL and the part number I get is 32404-96A, A being the updated part. And it is expensive I think around $300 from HD. You have to drill out the rivets and these are Harley non standard rivets. About $3 each from HD. I looked at it and the compound is mostly gone. The potting compound seems to be like what you use for metal roofs when you want to use that tacky seam sealing tape. That is what it looks like to me. I used a glue rubber removing solvent called Toluene which is used for removing rubber in speaker repair. Some suggested using Silicon or RTV but I would not as it contains Acetic acid in the curing stage and would corrode the PC board. I plan to use DOW 737 silicon which cost about $15 as it has no acid in curing (Amazon). So $25 for me vs $300 and the trouble to R/R it. Dude who used silicon with the smelly acid is going to have trouble down the road. I need to put a heat deflector on the tailpipe to keep heat off the nose cone and maybe a ceramic insulator between tailpipe clamp and mount. Will have to measure heat of nose cone using laser temp thermometer. Probably cost $300 in labor from HD if I had a new one installed. I have no idea what temperature the new part potting compound is. The Silicon is usually about 400 deg F. Plan to apply a finish thin coat of the usual automotive RTV silicon red rated at 650 def F on top of 1st silicon coating. Probably be ok. I guess. That's my plan until I hear a better one.
I appreciated your sharing up to the Harley F up. Technology has come a long way since then. If you compared the first cell phones to the latest would you say the company F up? NO....Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson I think a good question to ask is.. IS it a F up ? It reminds me of the design of a water pump fail safe weep hole. If it gets too hot then the water pump weeps and lets you know. If the ignition area gets too hot then the ignition fails. Perhaps it is a mechanical design patch for a design that gets too hot. People say they have had several failures of this part melting. I plan to use a Temp crayon to see just how hot that nose cone gets. Ha Ha the first cell phones were big and analog but the transmitter could reach out miles to hit a tower and were used out in the country by USPS while my T-mobile has trouble finding a tower. Bag phones had their positive points. I will also find a thicker after market nose cone cover to act like a heat deflector. I installed a less lean modified MV4 carb. I would not be surprised if the EPA contributed to a forced overheated lean carb engine design. Appreciate your video as I thought it might be a melting stator. Sometimes Designers just don't know the thing is failing until it fails years later. Probably put some tail pipe wrap near the area. Timeline: Got the bike at 30k miles. Started leaking out after that. I think it has 45k now and it has leaked out. So lucky me It did not fail. Enough sticky to hold wires and not dry enough for wires to come loose from the housing plastic fingers that divide the wires. Sweet spot makes it easier to attempt repair. In your case it just started leaking so easier to just replace the whole thing. I see some people getting robbed on e-bay buying used sensors with the old grey potting vs the new black potting. I would beware. It looks like the 3 connection wires are soldered to a pc board and an optical sensor with tiny wires are soldered to another pick off point on the pc board so if potting with dow 737 you got to be careful not to short these pick off wires together or break them. Info for all you cheap skates like me. The optical sensor itself is glued to the plastic housing with a more robust compound.
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson only the cost is high way robbery for the updated cell phones, but all in all if you are using the phone only to talk , the voices are the same on the original as with the high priced phones.
I have been chasing a ghost on my 1998 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide since August 2022. This may very well be my problem, after warm up ( about 15-20 minutes) I lose spark on my rear cylinder. It started only occasionally while riding lasting 2-4 second's then go away. I put away for the winter but would start it about once a week and let it run to now notice that after 15-20 minutes it would drop out and not recover. Have replaced coil, ignition module and plug wires. Today I started it to find it now does it as soon as I start it and it won't clear up. I bought it used last year from a local dealership and (sad to say ) have only rode it 77 miles. I will be under the bike in the morning looking for this drip I sure hope this solves my problem. Thanks just the same for a great video. My first Harley so even with the service book I still feel like I'm flying blind.
Hi Craig, I too have been dealing with loss of spark to the rear cylinder on a 1998 Electra Glide Classic with fuel injection. I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. It does appear that the Cam Sensor on my bike has melted. I will be replacing it. I am curious to know if this fixed the issue with spark to the rear cylinder on your Wide Glide? Thank you! - Dan
Nick you have me confused. In 2007 your model would have a CKP sensor. Located at front of motor. There is no Cam sensor that year with fuel injection. Now if your bike has been converted to Carb. Yes sensors in the cam area can melt. …..Doc
@@porkchopspapi5757 I checked it a while ago and the epoxy had melted away and disappeared…and though it still ran I replaced it with a stock type…I might upgrade it after I replace the heads though.
Do you work on your bike? Points need attention once in a while or replaced. This can be fun for some. A Dyna S Ignition system is as simple and only the flyweights need yearly cleaning and lubed. The choice is always yours....Doc
Doc, something I learned years ago. If you clean the factory sealant from the wires and use clear Silicon Sealant solves the problem. It's perfect insulation for the wiring and takes high temps much higher than a Harley engine produces. Will not melt.
Are you sure it is the sensor and not the Stator rubber connector? The Stator plug is known to leak the old the bike gets. The sensor that is near by is the Crank Position Sensor and uses a blue O-ring to seal....Doc
I've replaced two. Why the hell doesn't HD remedy this problem. It went bad on a fuel injected 97 classic bagger I call Fido. It likes to ride in the back of pickups. HD of Brandon Fl doesn't carry parts for Evos'. 36,000 miles and it's been in the back 9 times. My pan wouldn't dare treat me like that!
I know this is 4 years ago but I’m having the same problem. Would you have a part number that replaces this ? Or is it the number in the video. Thank you in advance.
I got one black wire running off my starter its hot when key is but don't know were it goes i have basic wiring harness can u tell me were it goes it run to my 30 amp breaker
@LowCountryHarleyDavidson no haven't hooked up the wire to anything I just have a wire from battery to a 30 amp breaker and rectifier on it which gives power to everything the black wire not hooked up don't know we're it goes just hanging there I haven't hooked it up yet to anything it looks like it's coming from the starter and it's hot
DOC... My 2000 EVO s n s JUST lost power on the freeway... FULL THROTTLE CHUG only goes when HIGH REV.....no power uphill....she made it home but sounds like she running RUFF.. no backfire .. had CARB rebuilt recently. petcock flows and I DONT know what else to do HELP....!!!!!!!
Sorry to hear of your Loss of Power. Start at the beginning of spark. Battery. how old? tight connections? Charging system working? Next take out spark plugs. What do they look like? All black? All wet? Plug wires tight? Take a look under Cam cover. is there goo flowing out of the ignition wire hole? melted ignition? and then there is the question, did you replace manifold seals when you rebuilt the carb? So many questions for your local HD tech to figure out....Doc
HD, Springers take extra maintenance on the front end. They are harder on neck bearings than hydraulic front ends. (Keep them adjusted) Also, the rockers that connect your fixed fork to the reaction fork need regular service. The spherical bearings are not greasable in the rockers. The original springers, (1948 and back) had zerk fittings on the moving parts. If you are mechanically inclined, buy the factory shop manual for your bike. You will also need a dial type, torque wrench, in order to set up the front end correctly. It's not hard to do. Just time consuming. Buy the FL Springer...you won't be disappointed. It's pretty nice to watch that mechanical front end work.
have a 99 fatboy and this happened. put a daytona twintec 1005 in, as the harley dealerahip said that was the only option. found the original wiring doesnt match what the daytona twintec says it supposed to be for the coil. Sipposed to be white black for front cylinder/top, and pink back cylinder/bottom. But that arrangement of cables doesnt work. The original cables have it the other way (screaming eagle ignition). It qill now start and runs normally, but shuts off after ~ 15 seconds. idk where to go from here
So I take it the dealer said buy this and you decided to install? Double check the given instructions. Go on line and make sure there are no updates. Be sure the product IS for your 1999 Fat Boy. Look at the fine print. Sometimes the ignition works with the manufacturer’s coil not Factory coil. Double check your installation. If all is right, move on to fuel…Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Twintec and harley reps state that it is compatible with the 99 fatboy. However, none of them seem to know about screaming eagle. Screaming eagle was put on in 07, but i dont really know much about it. The twintec says there needs to be a minimum of 13v from the coil to cylinder head at 2000rpms. I am getting 10 at best. It says if i am not getting the 13v i need their new power relay. I am waiting for that part. The battery is dying after firing it up once or twice, and it is the second new battery in a year. So there may actually be an alternator problem? Computers are my forte, not mechanical. with mechanical things, i always seem to run across, 'this is broken and you need to fix it' followed by twenty more things u til i find the actual root.
Doc, Do I need to check timing with a timing light after replacing the ignition pick up? I’ve marked the position of the original and put the new one in the exact same position as you stated in the video. Second question: what clear plug should I use for the timing hole to prevent oil spray when checking timing? The two I tried won’t line up with the treads due to the bump in the primary case even though I got them from my local dealership. Bike is a 97 FLHTCU with carburetor, not fuel injected).
If your timing was correct before, marking and replacing should be good or just a few degrees off. As for the timing hole clear plug. I have 5 just for this issue. I do not know where they came from. Keep searching. I do believe you can sand down the sides (very slowly) and it will not effect the center view.
I have a 90 FLHTC with s&s carb. Bike runs great except when it's hot out and the bike gets hot. The idle drops down below 500 and the oil light flickers. I'll definitely be replacing my ignition sensor. Anything else I should be checking? So far I've done plugs and intake gaskets to no avail.
I found i had this going on with my 1988 heritage, melted sealant. Now randomly im fouling plugs ever 50+ miles. Bike runs great once i clean them. Been investigating but will this issue cause fouling plugs and sputtering
I'm replacing a bad coil and notice the moca spew on the wire front the nose cone. opened up some of the wires are exposed with plenty of the sealant still on. so I ordered a dynatek($100) replacement part and all the wires are exposed. so is that going to be a problem? if not, then why is it a problem on the oem part?
Doc, I have a 09 sportster 883 with a charging issue. The 2 Stator wires do not have continuity to ground but the motor dies when I unplug the stator from the regulator. Please help
Stator should never have continuity to ground. both wires should have a resistance to each other. I would start at battery. without a good strong battery, testing is difficult. There is testing of stator output per RPM. If stator checks out then check feedback voltage at plug where stator plugs in. should not be battery voltage at this plug.....to be sure, take it to your dealer for correct diag and replacing only the failed parts.....Doc
Thanks Doc, my issue was as I suspected the regulator. My problem with diag was all the videos and forum posts I saw and read said the stator wires are on the front of the primary, but mine go under the motor and up the rite frame rail. I was unplugging a sensor and not the stator. In my searches though I found many people who I believe were making the same mistake as me. I hope they find this and are able to figure it out easier then I did
Doc I have a question: I have a 2007 road king I started it today had it idling for about 3 to 5 minutes and shut it of, after that it won't start. when I turn on the ignition I hear the fuel pump running, fuses are ok. What might it be, I appreciate your advice in advance. Kindly regards Peter J. Rouw
Any chance you have security? Change the battery in the key fob. Email me with more info, like starter turning but no ignition and how old is the battery? might have had enough to start 1 time and no enough rpm at idle for charging system to replenish battery voltage.. Doc
21 years is not a bad run. The design was updated in 2000, 20 years ago. Not sure someone is going to use a 20 year old bike electronic connection as an excuse to not buy another.
@@darylcopp9013 these people who make the "factory defect" comment, don't realize, how old the bike is. I guess these parts last forever? I have a 1980 FLH Classic, that had the original ignition and voltage regulator, up until 2005. I changed them both out before a trip to the Gulfport Blowout that year. Bike still ran fine and charged fine, with the original parts. Just wanted piece of mind for the trip.
@Adventures of 'Neric You are joking, aren't You? as told by @Daryl Copp it's a over 20 years of great run on Evolution Engine. The most marriages last less!!!
Hey Doc - great info! Got a question: I've got a shovelhead with Hi4 ignition. That ignition has a wire that would go to the voes on an evo. Since this retards the ignition, I'd like to use it for kickstarting it. So - does it retard when grounded or not grounded? Thanx again for the great vids.
After seeing this & all the comments about HD dealer service department's that won't touch a 15 year old bike, when HD has been making bikes for over 100 years, I'm done even thinking about buying another Harley. I've had a 48 pan & a 83 shovel that looked & sounded great but could not be relied on. I know HD has to compete while paying organized crime (union) blackmail wages, but this is the last straw.
Hey doc I recently change my exhaust on my 2017 dyna and seems like my flange nuts keep getting loose after one or two rides, what can I do to keep them tight? Thanks!!!
gdc818 I’m not doc Harley but I have one of 2 guesses. Both revolve around being to proper torque. Those nuts can be notoriously hard to get to. 1 they might not tight enough and after a heat cycle the bolt can expand will loosen with vibration. 2 the bolt was stretched form over tightening and again will loosen up from heat cycles and vibration. Now these are both assuming that a new crush washer was used when the head pipe was changed and assuming the old one was removed and not another one added to it. So if the bolts are properly torqued and the new crush washer was used then you’ll doc.
Hi Doc, A friend of mine with heart and liver problems is going on a 3 week trip on his 2018 Road Glide. I told him to keep his medication at home because it makes him dizzy while he rides. Is that good advise ?
Leave his medication at home so he can have a heart attack\stroke while riding and end up killing himself or someone else? Great advice. He needs to leave the bike at home. My neighbor with health problems just got killed on his bike a few weeks back. He never should have been on a bike with his health being so bad ( he was prone to blackouts). Now he's dead after running a red light and the poor family in the car that hit him will never be the same.
Great tip Doc. And ill bet 1,000 dollars Harley won't fix THEIR faulty part for free. They'll charge you for the part and 500 bucks labor for 20 mons of work. Gotta love the quality built bikes they sell....HA!
John Herman While I agree some things SHOULD be covered several years later by HD(especially if majority of owners had issues), this really IS a wear and tear item (or in this case...AGE). The bike is over 20 years old!! I’d expect electrical components to fizz out over time. Even automobile parts go after a while and they are not covered even after the 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper warranties. Back in ‘99 HD still made good parts. Once it started getting outsourced more often, quality went down. I own a 2002 HD and just last year had to do some major preventative engine repairs. Cost me about $1500. Considering age/mileage of bike, that’s not really a bad deal. I finally replaced a set of bearings that were “questionable” in 2002 of possible manufacturers defect, which HD gladly replaced on bikes at that time, but mine lasted all these years, and I just figured since the tech was in there, might as well upgrade to newer(better??) bearings. Parts were very inexpensive, but the labor I was paying for the work, warranted replacing them. I DO agree HD, as well as ALL manufacturers of bikes, cars, boats, even tractors are getting better at forcing you to go to the dealerships more often because they plan on certain parts wearing out faster and require “THEIR” proprietary scanners/computers/software to fix the issues. I’d rather buy a used older bike (doesn’t have to HD) that has points, carburetor, etc. Easier to maintain myself. But that’s my opinion. 😉😏
@@SA-hk8xj don't confuse these people with reason. Twenty plus years with original ignition, isn't too bad. A lot of heat cycles through the years. Same thing happens to 1990's Ford ignition modules. They get hot and cold just so many times. And that sealant cracks and oozes. Causing ignition problems. Nothing lasts forever.
@@SA-hk8xj Easier to maintain ;;Not only that but all electrical parts could be tested in a parking lot, or under a tree!! And some parts were available in Auto parts stores!,,and I never had a problem with Lucas electrics!
If it’s lasted over 20 years, I’d say it is NOT a poor design. Especially with all the heat and vibration. Most parts now a days won’t even last 5-8 years without replacing. Just my opinion.
Yes.. it only lasted 20 years and was found completely by chance.. not because it had even failed yet. How many original parts do you have on YOUR 20+ year-old car?
PATRICK DeCambra, another Harley hating troll. I am willing to bet, you have never ridden or owned a Harley. Or ANY brand motorcycle for that matter. (I could be wrong. Just guessing) Typical uneducated comment. ALL motorcycles, cars, trucks, boats, tractors...whatever, have service departments. They ALL break at some point. You do realize, that this bike is twenty two years old. I am willing to bet ANY vehicle that age, will have some problem.. Why do you people watch these videos?
@@johnd5398 I ride a twelve-year-old metric motorcycle that is capable of going 160 miles per hour. It has storage bags a windshield that is adjustable with the touch of a button. So far I change the oil. I'm going to give it a valve adjustment soon but that's to be expected. Sure everything does fail. But does it have to fail less than one year after you buy it. I've ridden many different brands of motorcycle including Harley-Davidson. I am not a fan of two cylinder motorcycles the vibrate too much. Harley-Davidson never even attempted to give me a 4 cylinder motorcycle. I have many reasons I don't like Harley Davidson. One of them is why are people so loyal to something that takes advantage of them at every opportunity.?
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I have been chasing an electrical fault for ages - ignition on try to start - then a drain on all power. Chased every wire on an FI. 1996 RK - just found this on my bike. At I now know what the fault is!!!!! Thanks for posting this video
After watching a few of his videos you realize how he came to be "doc" he's onto everything !!! I wish he worked on my bike. Thanks again.
Doc, I love when you talk about something I've never heard of!! Always love to learn new stuff!
1996 Carb FLTHC - I was on my 2nd new battery and couldn't figure out why my battery was dying . The stator tested fine, I preemptively replaced the voltage regulator and didn't think it was likely I got 2 bad batteries. I stored it for the winter at the local Indian Dealership as the Harley dealerships in Milwaukee will not work on pre-1999 bikes (without manager approval). Ok, mini rant over... Anyway, the Indian mechanics found this same exact issue. I have to say the picture they sent me was stunningly similar to your video. I wish I would have seen this video a few months ago as it would have saved me some money. I am going to binge watch all your videos as even though I've ridden for close to 30 years, I learn something from each video. Thanks Doc!
Thanks for watching and your kind words....Doc
Can't belive Low Country brings in Evo work. Most dealers won't touch early Twin Cams.
What?! Are you serious?
I’ve got an 03 Heritage Softail Classic from a dealer dealer nearby and took it in for service because I was taking a 1500 mile round trip and they told me the bike was too old and they couldn’t touch it,06 and older,I told em they shouldn’t of sold me something that wasn’t gonna get worked on when needed,fuckers
I just replaced the ignition on my 91 Evo 1200 Sportster..the bike never gave me any trouble in oven 15 year's...just died last week on the way home...63$ and about a half-hour she's running...I can't complain the bike is 30+ year's old..this is the first time I've ever had any issues with it . I do all my own work on all my car's truck's and of course my bikes...
I discovered this years ago on my 98 Softail. Didn't leave me stranded, when I changed the cam I noticed the milky crap, the stuff was completely gone from the ignition. It's funny this video came up for me, just yesterday I had to show the owner of the 92 Sportster I'm working on how his is all melted away.
I would have liked to see the repair done
Been there before. It's not fun being on the side of the road, wondering, is it the fuel, spark plugs, or any other thing. Finally found it after testing every other thing.
Thank you very much for this video mate. Ive recently had this start happening and initially thought cam seal and where the hell is the water contamination coming from but videos like this make things so easy. Please keep it up with everything you can. Cheers
Glad it helped…..Doc
Nice to see some information on older rides 👍✌️
Nice I had this exact thing happen and didn't know what happen till I hear him say about the milky substance
Excellent. Same thing has happened to me. Stuck roadside in 100 degrees for multiple hours trying to fix it! Thought it was VOES so bypassed as was getting no spark when hot. Bike would intermittently rev up and down then die. Disassembled air cleaner and carb roadside as thought it may be a vac leak, after deliberation decided it must have been the ignition, opened it up to find exactly as shown in the video - taking delivery of a Dyna 2000i today!
Glad we could help...Doc
Thank you Doc. Same on my 98 heritage Springer. Bike still runs , that butter scotch melted and hardened back up. I bet she runs better with a new one .
Agree…..Doc
Thank you so much Doc! You just saved me hours of work on my ‘99 sportster! Protect this man at all costs!
Ha Ha.....Thanks.....Doc
Love the attention to detail ... I always have mine serviced at my local H-D dealership here in south jersey. Thanks for the helpful tips. Enjoy your day
thanks, doc, I've seen it many times on others motorcycles. I still have points in my shovel, and although electronic single-fire is better I'll keep the points.
Just bought 1998 road king and I saw the milky white and wondered what it was
Thank you
Great job, you are definitely a professional.
The good ol' Blockhead (Evo) motor, when a Harley with SE pipes actually sounded like a Harley, notwithstanding that the M8 is a better performer.
nevillegreg1 doesn’t need to perform just pull like a freight train and all Harleys do
You never been to the Harley drags obviously 🙄
Shovelhead is the last real Harley.
Thanks again Doc. My 1999 FATBOY is showing signs of this same issue. I’m getting ready to rebuild the carburetor I’m going to change this also while I have it down. Great channel Doc. I really enjoy all your tips.
Thanks for taking your time to watch our videos....Doc
I have an all in one ignition module there. It to gets hot. Failure sucks. Expensive too. I have taken to spacing out the cover to catch wind flow. Years now no failure. Its not as pretty. But it works. Thought about drilling a dome cover.
I appreciate you sharing your experience and thoughts….Doc
What about water from a washing or rain?
Hey Doc great info as usual.I have an 82 fxr shovel same problem.I am ready to install new but cant get the wires out of the connector to install the new pickup.Any help would be appreciated;Thanks
Make your self a cup of very hot water. Place the connector in the nhot water for a minute. Take out, push pin snd 2 sockets out backwards….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Thanks Doc,will give this a try today.
I don’t have an older bike, but this is a great tip for those who do. Another great job. Thanks
Nice to see a dealer that fixes carbs. Here in the Okanagan our harley dealer wont touch carbs cause they don't know how to fix them. That's their words...not mine.
I have a 1997 FXDL and the part number I get is 32404-96A, A being the updated part. And it is expensive I think around $300 from HD. You have to drill out the rivets and these are Harley non standard rivets. About $3 each from HD. I looked at it and the compound is mostly gone. The potting compound seems to be like what you use for metal roofs when you want to use that tacky seam sealing tape. That is what it looks like to me. I used a glue rubber removing solvent called Toluene which is used for removing rubber in speaker repair. Some suggested using Silicon or RTV but I would not as it contains Acetic acid in the curing stage and would corrode the PC board. I plan to use DOW 737 silicon which cost about $15 as it has no acid in curing (Amazon). So $25 for me vs $300 and the trouble to R/R it. Dude who used silicon with the smelly acid is going to have trouble down the road. I need to put a heat deflector on the tailpipe to keep heat off the nose cone and maybe a ceramic insulator between tailpipe clamp and mount. Will have to measure heat of nose cone using laser temp thermometer. Probably cost $300 in labor from HD if I had a new one installed. I have no idea what temperature the new part potting compound is. The Silicon is usually about 400 deg F. Plan to apply a finish thin coat of the usual automotive RTV silicon red rated at 650 def F on top of 1st silicon coating. Probably be ok. I guess. That's my plan until I hear a better one.
I appreciated your sharing up to the Harley F up. Technology has come a long way since then. If you compared the first cell phones to the latest would you say the company F up? NO....Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson I think a good question to ask is.. IS it a F up ? It reminds me of the design of a water pump fail safe weep hole. If it gets too hot then the water pump weeps and lets you know. If the ignition area gets too hot then the ignition fails. Perhaps it is a mechanical design patch for a design that gets too hot. People say they have had several failures of this part melting. I plan to use a Temp crayon to see just how hot that nose cone gets. Ha Ha the first cell phones were big and analog but the transmitter could reach out miles to hit a tower and were used out in the country by USPS while my T-mobile has trouble finding a tower. Bag phones had their positive points. I will also find a thicker after market nose cone cover to act like a heat deflector. I installed a less lean modified MV4 carb. I would not be surprised if the EPA contributed to a forced overheated lean carb engine design. Appreciate your video as I thought it might be a melting stator. Sometimes Designers just don't know the thing is failing until it fails years later. Probably put some tail pipe wrap near the area. Timeline: Got the bike at 30k miles. Started leaking out after that. I think it has 45k now and it has leaked out. So lucky me It did not fail. Enough sticky to hold wires and not dry enough for wires to come loose from the housing plastic fingers that divide the wires. Sweet spot makes it easier to attempt repair. In your case it just started leaking so easier to just replace the whole thing. I see some people getting robbed on e-bay buying used sensors with the old grey potting vs the new black potting. I would beware. It looks like the 3 connection wires are soldered to a pc board and an optical sensor with tiny wires are soldered to another pick off point on the pc board so if potting with dow 737 you got to be careful not to short these pick off wires together or break them. Info for all you cheap skates like me. The optical sensor itself is glued to the plastic housing with a more robust compound.
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson only the cost is high way robbery for the updated cell phones, but all in all if you are using the phone only to talk , the voices are the same on the original as with the high priced phones.
Thanks doc I had black “plastic” melt ran down wires on frame ignition crapped out great videos ty
I have been chasing a ghost on my 1998 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide since August 2022. This may very well be my problem, after warm up ( about 15-20 minutes) I lose spark on my rear cylinder. It started only occasionally while riding lasting 2-4 second's then go away. I put away for the winter but would start it about once a week and let it run to now notice that after 15-20 minutes it would drop out and not recover. Have replaced coil, ignition module and plug wires. Today I started it to find it now does it as soon as I start it and it won't clear up. I bought it used last year from a local dealership and (sad to say ) have only rode it 77 miles. I will be under the bike in the morning looking for this drip I sure hope this solves my problem. Thanks just the same for a great video. My first Harley so even with the service book I still feel like I'm flying blind.
Thanks Craig for watching. Hoping this did help….Doc
Hi Craig, I too have been dealing with loss of spark to the rear cylinder on a 1998 Electra Glide Classic with fuel injection. I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. It does appear that the Cam Sensor on my bike has melted. I will be replacing it. I am curious to know if this fixed the issue with spark to the rear cylinder on your Wide Glide? Thank you! - Dan
Great catch! I would have missed that clue. You musta been a detective before this gig.
Thanks for keeping us running, Doc.
Hey doc! why does this usually hapens in fuel injection bikes? thanks
Ever heard of a cam shaft sensor melting on a 2007 road king? It's got a 96 to 110 build. I can't find anything in the forums about them melting.
Nick you have me confused. In 2007 your model would have a CKP sensor. Located at front of motor. There is no Cam sensor that year with fuel injection. Now if your bike has been converted to Carb. Yes sensors in the cam area can melt. …..Doc
@Low Country Harley-Davidson I apologize, I meant crankshaft. It is not cam shaft. It's also melting r he new one.
My 1989 evo 1340 has original ignition module never had cover off! Wonder if I should upgrade under the chance that it’s day will come?
By all means. You don't have this problem so do the one thing that might cause it.
@@porkchopspapi5757 I checked it a while ago and the epoxy had melted away and disappeared…and though it still ran I replaced it with a stock type…I might upgrade it after I replace the heads though.
I had the same issue on my evo'99 a year ago, and I read on some forum while ago, that the reason could be bad main circuit braker 30A.
Hey Doc l have a 98 super sidewinder someone changed the original system and went with the points should I change it back or keep the points
Do you work on your bike? Points need attention once in a while or replaced. This can be fun for some. A Dyna S Ignition system is as simple and only the flyweights need yearly cleaning and lubed. The choice is always yours....Doc
Doc, something I learned years ago. If you clean the factory sealant from the wires and use clear Silicon Sealant solves the problem. It's perfect insulation for the wiring and takes high temps much higher than a Harley engine produces. Will not melt.
But isnt doing that just like putting a bandaid on the situation?
@@AJ-nh8ik No...it solves the problem.
@@rfrmobile4314 acid
Damn been trying to figure out what that was running out. Thanks doc!
Thank you for watching….Doc
My 98 has been oozing that snot for 2 years now. Wonder if i could pack it with a new sealant to revitalize it.
A few owners have suggested that on this and other sites....Doc
Great info. Like to see work on the older bikes!
Doc I have oil leak from the sensor front the engine behind the regulator. What is the name of that part, appreciate your reply thanks
Are you sure it is the sensor and not the Stator rubber connector? The Stator plug is known to leak the old the bike gets. The sensor that is near by is the Crank Position Sensor and uses a blue O-ring to seal....Doc
Thanks Doc. Something to look for if I had a 1999 or earlier model.
Thanks Doc! I'm starting to learn about Harleys and you have great information.
You are not too far from me so I might need to visit LCH one day 👍🤙
Welcome! come on in and we will chat for a while..Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson 😁🤙
I've replaced two. Why the hell doesn't HD remedy this problem. It went bad on a fuel injected 97 classic bagger I call Fido. It likes to ride in the back of pickups. HD of Brandon Fl doesn't carry parts for Evos'. 36,000 miles and it's been in the back 9 times. My pan wouldn't dare treat me like that!
I know this is 4 years ago but I’m having the same problem. Would you have a part number that replaces this ? Or is it the number in the video. Thank you in advance.
Without knowing the year and model I can’t give a part number. I suggest you go on line. Look up Drag Specialties, Ignition Sensor assembly….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson 1998 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer
I got one black wire running off my starter its hot when key is but don't know were it goes i have basic wiring harness can u tell me were it goes it run to my 30 amp breaker
Is this a trick question? You just said it goes to your main circuit breaker which powers up everything 🤷♂️….Doc
@LowCountryHarleyDavidson no haven't hooked up the wire to anything I just have a wire from battery to a 30 amp breaker and rectifier on it which gives power to everything the black wire not hooked up don't know we're it goes just hanging there I haven't hooked it up yet to anything it looks like it's coming from the starter and it's hot
DOC... My 2000 EVO s n s JUST lost power on the freeway... FULL THROTTLE CHUG only goes when HIGH REV.....no power uphill....she made it home but sounds like she running RUFF.. no backfire .. had CARB rebuilt recently. petcock flows and I DONT know what else to do HELP....!!!!!!!
Sorry to hear of your Loss of Power. Start at the beginning of spark. Battery. how old? tight connections? Charging system working? Next take out spark plugs. What do they look like? All black? All wet? Plug wires tight? Take a look under Cam cover. is there goo flowing out of the ignition wire hole? melted ignition? and then there is the question, did you replace manifold seals when you rebuilt the carb? So many questions for your local HD tech to figure out....Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thnx Doc..!!! Much appreciated... my 1st Harley...!!!
i cleaned the goo mess out and applied rtv black silicon. no problems.
Thanks for sharing…..Doc
Wish you wasn’t so far away , I’d love to have you work on my bike !
I am wonting a flsts and am curious as to what extra maintenance will be required, if you have a minute I sure would appreciate it
HD, Springers take extra maintenance on the front end. They are harder on neck bearings than hydraulic front ends. (Keep them adjusted) Also, the rockers that connect your fixed fork to the reaction fork need regular service. The spherical bearings are not greasable in the rockers. The original springers, (1948 and back) had zerk fittings on the moving parts. If you are mechanically inclined, buy the factory shop manual for your bike. You will also need a dial type, torque wrench, in order to set up the front end correctly. It's not hard to do. Just time consuming. Buy the FL Springer...you won't be disappointed. It's pretty nice to watch that mechanical front end work.
What Pan M8 said.
Manual says neck bearings every 50k. Nope. 10-15k.
But got pride riding with that bold front end leading out.
have a 99 fatboy and this happened. put a daytona twintec 1005 in, as the harley dealerahip said that was the only option. found the original wiring doesnt match what the daytona twintec says it supposed to be for the coil. Sipposed to be white black for front cylinder/top, and pink back cylinder/bottom. But that arrangement of cables doesnt work. The original cables have it the other way (screaming eagle ignition). It qill now start and runs normally, but shuts off after ~ 15 seconds. idk where to go from here
So I take it the dealer said buy this and you decided to install? Double check the given instructions. Go on line and make sure there are no updates. Be sure the product IS for your 1999 Fat Boy. Look at the fine print. Sometimes the ignition works with the manufacturer’s coil not Factory coil. Double check your installation. If all is right, move on to fuel…Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Twintec and harley reps state that it is compatible with the 99 fatboy. However, none of them seem to know about screaming eagle. Screaming eagle was put on in 07, but i dont really know much about it. The twintec says there needs to be a minimum of 13v from the coil to cylinder head at 2000rpms. I am getting 10 at best. It says if i am not getting the 13v i need their new power relay. I am waiting for that part. The battery is dying after firing it up once or twice, and it is the second new battery in a year. So there may actually be an alternator problem? Computers are my forte, not mechanical. with mechanical things, i always seem to run across, 'this is broken and you need to fix it' followed by twenty more things u til i find the actual root.
Awesome tip Mike, top notch video as always!
Doc,
Do I need to check timing with a timing light after replacing the ignition pick up? I’ve marked the position of the original and put the new one in the exact same position as you stated in the video.
Second question: what clear plug should I use for the timing hole to prevent oil spray when checking timing? The two I tried won’t line up with the treads due to the bump in the primary case even though I got them from my local dealership.
Bike is a 97 FLHTCU with carburetor, not fuel injected).
If your timing was correct before, marking and replacing should be good or just a few degrees off. As for the timing hole clear plug. I have 5 just for this issue. I do not know where they came from. Keep searching. I do believe you can sand down the sides (very slowly) and it will not effect the center view.
I have a 90 FLHTC with s&s carb. Bike runs great except when it's hot out and the bike gets hot. The idle drops down below 500 and the oil light flickers. I'll definitely be replacing my ignition sensor. Anything else I should be checking? So far I've done plugs and intake gaskets to no avail.
Good tip Doc!
I found i had this going on with my 1988 heritage, melted sealant. Now randomly im fouling plugs ever 50+ miles. Bike runs great once i clean them. Been investigating but will this issue cause fouling plugs and sputtering
Yes….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thank you
Great video and tip Doc
I have the problem with ignition cuts out. When you say replace it, are you saying the electronic ignition?
Just this pick-up sensor....Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson TANK YOU.
Thank You.
Another great video Doc
Thanks Doc!
exactly what mine is doing!! thank you!
Glad we were able to help....Doc
Awesome doc,like always great advice
I'm replacing a bad coil and notice the moca spew on the wire front the nose cone. opened up some of the wires are exposed with plenty of the sealant still on. so I ordered a dynatek($100) replacement part and all the wires are exposed. so is that going to be a problem? if not, then why is it a problem on the oem part?
Always great content Doc, Thank You!!
Great video Doc! My 98 Ultra glide has this problem. What ignition would you replace it with?
If it was running well before replace the melted unit with a new HD part and keep on riding. Thanks ~ Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson obsolete lol
Doc, I have a 09 sportster 883 with a charging issue. The 2 Stator wires do not have continuity to ground but the motor dies when I unplug the stator from the regulator. Please help
Stator should never have continuity to ground. both wires should have a resistance to each other. I would start at battery. without a good strong battery, testing is difficult. There is testing of stator output per RPM. If stator checks out then check feedback voltage at plug where stator plugs in. should not be battery voltage at this plug.....to be sure, take it to your dealer for correct diag and replacing only the failed parts.....Doc
Thanks Doc, my issue was as I suspected the regulator. My problem with diag was all the videos and forum posts I saw and read said the stator wires are on the front of the primary, but mine go under the motor and up the rite frame rail. I was unplugging a sensor and not the stator. In my searches though I found many people who I believe were making the same mistake as me. I hope they find this and are able to figure it out easier then I did
Great vid Doc.
I need one of those Cam/Attitude sensors! Can’t find it anywhere. Can anyone help me?
Eliminate the attitude element and purchase a Standard made pick up sensor
Where is the hole to check for the timing at ?
None in late models. If your bike is old enough it is on the left side of the motor, above the primary...a big allen....Doc
Good content
heat is not plastics friend . Maybe that cone should be vented
You never cease to amaze me Doc. Need to clone you and send a couple new “Doc” techs to my dealer. Lol
Doc is the Scotty Kilmer of motor cycles.
I don't get it. Why would the sealant melt? There are sealants that can easly withstand continuous 500° & higher.
Hey Doc what’s the name of the replacement part that’s melting ? TIA
Ignition Pick Up...Doc
Doc I have a question: I have a 2007 road king I started it today had it idling for about 3 to 5 minutes and shut it of, after that it won't start. when I turn on the ignition I hear the fuel pump running, fuses are ok. What might it be, I appreciate your advice in advance.
Kindly regards Peter J. Rouw
Any chance you have security? Change the battery in the key fob.
Email me with more info, like starter turning but no ignition and how old is the battery? might have had enough to start 1 time and no enough rpm at idle for charging system to replenish battery voltage..
Doc
Great tip👍🏻
If you don't mind me asking how many miles did this bike have on it thanks
Great Video.
Sounds to me it’s a bad design. Replacement should be covered under a service bulletin. Happy customers are return customers.
21 years is not a bad run. The design was updated in 2000, 20 years ago. Not sure someone is going to use a 20 year old bike electronic connection as an excuse to not buy another.
@@darylcopp9013 these people who make the "factory defect" comment, don't realize, how old the bike is. I guess these parts last forever? I have a 1980 FLH Classic, that had the original ignition and voltage regulator, up until 2005. I changed them both out before a trip to the Gulfport Blowout that year. Bike still ran fine and charged fine, with the original parts. Just wanted piece of mind for the trip.
@Adventures of 'Neric You are joking, aren't You? as told by @Daryl Copp it's a over 20 years of great run on Evolution Engine. The most marriages last less!!!
Hey Doc - great info! Got a question: I've got a shovelhead with Hi4 ignition. That ignition has a wire that would go to the voes on an evo. Since this retards the ignition, I'd like to use it for kickstarting it. So - does it retard when grounded or not grounded?
Thanx again for the great vids.
I want to know why none of my lights come on when I turn ignition switch on
You didn't provide enough information for me to make an educated guess. Thanks ~ Doc
What is the name of the part your replacing and maufactor number?
Need the year and model of your Harley. Swing by your local dealer and ask the Parts Specialist....Doc
Called an Ignition Sensor Assembly...Doc
After seeing this & all the comments about HD dealer service department's that won't touch a 15 year old bike, when HD has been making bikes for over 100 years, I'm done even thinking about buying another Harley. I've had a 48 pan & a 83 shovel that looked & sounded great but could not be relied on. I know HD has to compete while paying organized crime (union) blackmail wages, but this is the last straw.
Crane hi4- or Dyna twin tech and ride off into the sun I have been there done it
Doc , I keep blowing ignition fuse on 2000 fxst
Check wiring through handlebars and at the engine stop switch. Also a bad starting relay can trip the fuse....Doc
Hey doc I recently change my exhaust on my 2017 dyna and seems like my flange nuts keep getting loose after one or two rides, what can I do to keep them tight? Thanks!!!
gdc818 I’m not doc Harley but I have one of 2 guesses. Both revolve around being to proper torque. Those nuts can be notoriously hard to get to. 1 they might not tight enough and after a heat cycle the bolt can expand will loosen with vibration. 2 the bolt was stretched form over tightening and again will loosen up from heat cycles and vibration. Now these are both assuming that a new crush washer was used when the head pipe was changed and assuming the old one was removed and not another one added to it. So if the bolts are properly torqued and the new crush washer was used then you’ll doc.
I hit mine with some blue locktight. Blue can be removed with tools.
Jason Bookheimer thanks for the advice bro!!
Jack X thanks for the advice bro!!!
@@duke9173 I hit mine with red loctite. Screw the next guy. ;-]
If you have an early fuel injected Evo good luck finding a replacement. Just another time HD leaves customers hi and dry.
Indeed, very hard to get the new part 32448-95B
Especially in the Netherlands.
Doc, thanks for the great videos 👍😎
Hi Doc, A friend of mine with heart and liver problems is going on a 3 week trip on his 2018 Road Glide. I told him to keep his medication at home because it makes him dizzy while he rides. Is that good advise ?
Yes. Medicate with beer.
Leave his medication at home so he can have a heart attack\stroke while riding and end up killing himself or someone else?
Great advice.
He needs to leave the bike at home.
My neighbor with health problems just got killed on his bike a few weeks back. He never should have been on a bike with his health being so bad ( he was prone to blackouts). Now he's dead after running a red light and the poor family in the car that hit him will never be the same.
clever Harley, a cover to cover a cover, redundant redundancy
Awesome
👍😎
Great tip Doc. And ill bet 1,000 dollars Harley won't fix THEIR faulty part for free. They'll charge you for the part and 500 bucks labor for 20 mons of work. Gotta love the quality built bikes they sell....HA!
John Herman While I agree some things SHOULD be covered several years later by HD(especially if majority of owners had issues), this really IS a wear and tear item (or in this case...AGE). The bike is over 20 years old!! I’d expect electrical components to fizz out over time. Even automobile parts go after a while and they are not covered even after the 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper warranties. Back in ‘99 HD still made good parts. Once it started getting outsourced more often, quality went down. I own a 2002 HD and just last year had to do some major preventative engine repairs. Cost me about $1500. Considering age/mileage of bike, that’s not really a bad deal. I finally replaced a set of bearings that were “questionable” in 2002 of possible manufacturers defect, which HD gladly replaced on bikes at that time, but mine lasted all these years, and I just figured since the tech was in there, might as well upgrade to newer(better??) bearings. Parts were very inexpensive, but the labor I was paying for the work, warranted replacing them. I DO agree HD, as well as ALL manufacturers of bikes, cars, boats, even tractors are getting better at forcing you to go to the dealerships more often because they plan on certain parts wearing out faster and require “THEIR” proprietary scanners/computers/software to fix the issues. I’d rather buy a used older bike (doesn’t have to HD) that has points, carburetor, etc. Easier to maintain myself. But that’s my opinion. 😉😏
@@SA-hk8xj don't confuse these people with reason. Twenty plus years with original ignition, isn't too bad. A lot of heat cycles through the years. Same thing happens to 1990's Ford ignition modules. They get hot and cold just so many times. And that sealant cracks and oozes. Causing ignition problems. Nothing lasts forever.
@@SA-hk8xj Easier to maintain ;;Not only that but all electrical parts could be tested in a parking lot, or under a tree!! And some parts were available in Auto parts stores!,,and I never had a problem with Lucas electrics!
What would have been even more helpful is if you showed folks how to replace that ignition.
Your Factory Service Manual gives step by step instructions....Doc
sealant, not sealent
Are you related to my English teacher….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidsonYes, your English teacher was my cousin.
Murika
Harley Davidson is a complete failure!!! HD stands for Huge Disappointment
No it isn't and no it's not
Lol
great tip.
horrible design and materials used.
Maybe silicone would do better? You know, the one used for utensils and bakeware. It’s pretty high temperature resistant, I think 572˚F? 🤔
If it’s lasted over 20 years, I’d say it is NOT a poor design. Especially with all the heat and vibration. Most parts now a days won’t even last 5-8 years without replacing. Just my opinion.
S A yeah these doo dads are actually pretty robust....it’s a high mile engine that sees them going bad.
what would you have used in the manufacture of that part?
Yes.. it only lasted 20 years and was found completely by chance.. not because it had even failed yet. How many original parts do you have on YOUR 20+ year-old car?
Is Doc drunk?
Too good of a mechanic to work on Harley junk. He should be in a pro shop somewhere.
Harleys have become expensive junk
Everything Harley-Davidson makes is going to fail. No quality control. No quality. Big pieces of junk
PATRICK DeCambra, another Harley hating troll. I am willing to bet, you have never ridden or owned a Harley. Or ANY brand motorcycle for that matter. (I could be wrong. Just guessing) Typical uneducated comment. ALL motorcycles, cars, trucks, boats, tractors...whatever, have service departments. They ALL break at some point. You do realize, that this bike is twenty two years old. I am willing to bet ANY vehicle that age, will have some problem.. Why do you people watch these videos?
@@PanM8 I think they are brainwashed! Seriously!
As I ride with pride on a 1998 Springer. :-))
Everything that everyone makes is going to fail, eventually.
@@johnd5398 I ride a twelve-year-old metric motorcycle that is capable of going 160 miles per hour. It has storage bags a windshield that is adjustable with the touch of a button. So far I change the oil. I'm going to give it a valve adjustment soon but that's to be expected. Sure everything does fail. But does it have to fail less than one year after you buy it. I've ridden many different brands of motorcycle including Harley-Davidson. I am not a fan of two cylinder motorcycles the vibrate too much. Harley-Davidson never even attempted to give me a 4 cylinder motorcycle. I have many reasons I don't like Harley Davidson. One of them is why are people so loyal to something that takes advantage of them at every opportunity.?