if i had the money and the space i'd be doing the same! They are great, and just gives you the chance to get detail you just cant otherwise with other kits. Ive made loads of titanic models and ive always made the next one because i didnt think the last was detailed enough, so im hoping this allows me to kick the habit!
@@TheModelBoatGuy for sure! I've been plugging away at it for a while now. Coming together great too. Look me up on Facebook and ill send you some pics. I also do.aircraft and railways...
Great job! I like the way you are experimenting with different compounds and solving potential problems. The displacement is pretty impressive and should be adequate for your planned internal shenanigans!! I seem to recall that the original didn't fair too well by being filled with water! I am still drilling out the b......... portholes! You may have inspired me to add working props on my static 'Olympic' conversion using quiet reduction gear motors. I am now thinking about the mast docking lamps, possibly a 0.5 mm fibre optic buried in a slot cut in the brass Pontos mast replacements? A bit of a challenge at the lamp end!! I am enjoying your build. ; )
thanks Johnny, you have given me an idea there as well, am thinking as I would be using one as a diorama the mast light would be great, but the rear mast had 2 lights then there was a light on the stern post itself as well as a light on the railing as I can remember, which is what I would be doing on my model.
Hi haven't you got to allow for the weight of the deck and everything else upon it as well before allowing for ballast.I know nothing about this sort of thing but worth an ask .
Yes you do, and this is where it all gets a bit confusing because as the deck is higher out the water, that weight changes the ships centre of gravity which effects the stability of the boat! But you are absolutely right, I will need to take into account the weight of the decks and funnels etc which haven’t already been added to the model. All I have really learned from this is the total weight (including everything else that needs to be added) required to get the boat to it’s correct waterline
going on my previous comment, might even consider buying a few, as mentioned below, then few others, to build diorama's off, one striking iceberg, sinking time frame an hour into sinking with rockets fired, and lifeboats in water, and also might consider as well, doing a final plunge diorama... (not sure on the last one though)
Yes I intend to make a support for each of the propshafts. It should reduce vibration a wee bit. As yet not sure what to use for the support. I’m flirting with the idea of polymorph but tempted to just cast a resin over it... I’ll have a think!
i found prop shafts with a diameter of 4 mm, easier assembly or what is ur suggested smallest size u would go for, im not limited to pontos propellers, im not going to buy those maybe u got even a link, that would be great :)
Tbh I don’t think it really matters. I am using geared motors and i think wider props carry a bit more inertia so they have more chance if they get tangled in weeds etc. But I mean I don’t think it makes a huge difference. The main reason for my diameter was the pontos props. And I think you are right it will be easier fitting a smaller diameter. This: i.ebayimg.com/images/g/64QAAOSwzTFb4aLg/s-l400.jpg Is an option I guess. I have found in the past though when you get down to 2mm shafts they start to bend in the middle. This looks a bit more solidly built though
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks, my idea also was to use slow running motors aswell so its less likely they tankgle and build in a failsafe that when a motor isnt turning it activatres a breaker and the motor is turning off, the middle motor is the one i put in rigidity with a 6 or even 8mm shaft because i wanna get the dent on that like on the real titanic
Great work. I'm also building this monstrosity while I'm not in the air as much during the Covid issue. If you weren't aware, 90% Isopropyl alcohol will not only smooth epoxy out, but remove it before it has cured. You can thin epoxy as well with it. It makes it easy to get glassy smooth fillets.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I never knew that, I have a massive bottle of isopropyl alcohol for cleaning before painting so I will give that a shot next time. Thanks for the advice 😀
Mustardstain504 D well I made myself a jig. I cut a plastic disk at the diameter of the portholes and drilled a true centre hole in that. And used that, it was about 5mm thick I think. The disk locates in the indentation in the hull and then you can drill a centre hole in the hull and open it out etc. It’s a bit time consuming but it worked well for me. I spent a good bit of time on getting the jig correct though before drilling the actual holes. Quite a bit of trial and error first!
Always a good way to spend your day! Ah ok, never thought of that. I guess as long as it dosent react with the sealer it would be quite a good way of doing things.
Haha yeah, that’s true. Hopefully it will be a wee bit better by the time I sail it for the first time. Walter tends to slosh around a fair bit. Not ideal but I didn’t really have any weights or anything to use instead 😛
yes I'm sure you could (and don't let this put you off if that's what you're using). Part of me just wanted to experiment a bit, and I also wanted a really strong bond on these. I keep saying it but I just know that at some point I will knock the model against something, probably getting it in or out the car when I want to sail it. And the propshafts are particularly vulnerable. So I went for something really strong
I know the feeling (fear of bumping or hitting something with it,( Ice bergs aside) JB weld is a good chose especially marine grade, I just happen to have a couple of tubes of the modeling putty and was just wondering, Carry On.........lol
am going to buy 2 of these trumpeter kits, one would be static and am thinking on R/C version for my other one
if i had the money and the space i'd be doing the same! They are great, and just gives you the chance to get detail you just cant otherwise with other kits.
Ive made loads of titanic models and ive always made the next one because i didnt think the last was detailed enough, so im hoping this allows me to kick the habit!
Really enjoying this series. I'm doing a 1:200 yorktown at the moment. Looking at this titanic next. Keep up the good work!
I like the yorktowns actually. Id be interested to see the model?
@@TheModelBoatGuy for sure! I've been plugging away at it for a while now. Coming together great too. Look me up on Facebook and ill send you some pics. I also do.aircraft and railways...
Vast improvement with the sound levels. Thank you very much. Great video too!
Good news! Glad this was better, thanks for your comment and assistance 😀
Great job! I like the way you are experimenting with different compounds and solving potential problems. The displacement is pretty impressive and should be adequate for your planned internal shenanigans!! I seem to recall that the original didn't fair too well by being filled with water! I am still drilling out the b......... portholes! You may have inspired me to add working props on my static 'Olympic' conversion using quiet reduction gear motors.
I am now thinking about the mast docking lamps, possibly a 0.5 mm fibre optic buried in a slot cut in the brass Pontos mast replacements? A bit of a challenge at the lamp end!!
I am enjoying your build. ; )
thanks Johnny, you have given me an idea there as well, am thinking as I would be using one as a diorama the mast light would be great, but the rear mast had 2 lights then there was a light on the stern post itself as well as a light on the railing as I can remember, which is what I would be doing on my model.
Hi haven't you got to allow for the weight of the deck and everything else upon it as well before allowing for ballast.I know nothing about this sort of thing but worth an ask .
Yes you do, and this is where it all gets a bit confusing because as the deck is higher out the water, that weight changes the ships centre of gravity which effects the stability of the boat!
But you are absolutely right, I will need to take into account the weight of the decks and funnels etc which haven’t already been added to the model. All I have really learned from this is the total weight (including everything else that needs to be added) required to get the boat to it’s correct waterline
going on my previous comment, might even consider buying a few, as mentioned below, then few others, to build diorama's off, one striking iceberg, sinking time frame an hour into sinking with rockets fired, and lifeboats in water, and also might consider as well, doing a final plunge diorama... (not sure on the last one though)
Hi great job, are you going to make a support for the middle shaft?
Yes I intend to make a support for each of the propshafts. It should reduce vibration a wee bit. As yet not sure what to use for the support. I’m flirting with the idea of polymorph but tempted to just cast a resin over it... I’ll have a think!
Was thinking the second idea ,box the shaft and pure the resin in 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
i found prop shafts with a diameter of 4 mm, easier assembly or what is ur suggested smallest size u would go for, im not limited to pontos propellers, im not going to buy those
maybe u got even a link, that would be great :)
Tbh I don’t think it really matters. I am using geared motors and i think wider props carry a bit more inertia so they have more chance if they get tangled in weeds etc. But I mean I don’t think it makes a huge difference. The main reason for my diameter was the pontos props. And I think you are right it will be easier fitting a smaller diameter.
This:
i.ebayimg.com/images/g/64QAAOSwzTFb4aLg/s-l400.jpg
Is an option I guess. I have found in the past though when you get down to 2mm shafts they start to bend in the middle. This looks a bit more solidly built though
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks, my idea also was to use slow running motors aswell so its less likely they tankgle and build in a failsafe that when a motor isnt turning it activatres a breaker and the motor is turning off, the middle motor is the one i put in rigidity with a 6 or even 8mm shaft because i wanna get the dent on that like on the real titanic
Great work. I'm also building this monstrosity while I'm not in the air as much during the Covid issue.
If you weren't aware, 90% Isopropyl alcohol will not only smooth epoxy out, but remove it before it has cured. You can thin epoxy as well with it. It makes it easy to get glassy smooth fillets.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I never knew that, I have a massive bottle of isopropyl alcohol for cleaning before painting so I will give that a shot next time. Thanks for the advice 😀
@@TheModelBoatGuy I'm preparing to drill the portholes out. What did you use to center the bit in the larger ones?
Mustardstain504 D well I made myself a jig. I cut a plastic disk at the diameter of the portholes and drilled a true centre hole in that. And used that, it was about 5mm thick I think. The disk locates in the indentation in the hull and then you can drill a centre hole in the hull and open it out etc.
It’s a bit time consuming but it worked well for me. I spent a good bit of time on getting the jig correct though before drilling the actual holes. Quite a bit of trial and error first!
I don't get why they don't have the model painted before they put it in the box. And why so many pieces?
All part of the fun!
May not be exciting, but it is informational, thanks for sharing this!
Playing with boats in the bath, lol always fun :). Maybe try baking powder to thicken your mix, like super glue. :)
Always a good way to spend your day!
Ah ok, never thought of that. I guess as long as it dosent react with the sealer it would be quite a good way of doing things.
Awesome
Listing a fair bit.
Haha yeah, that’s true. Hopefully it will be a wee bit better by the time I sail it for the first time. Walter tends to slosh around a fair bit. Not ideal but I didn’t really have any weights or anything to use instead 😛
the model looks when in the bath tub like that, WOW it is a huge model the 1/200 scale
yeah its massive! until you get it in a lake then it feels pretty small!
I want this Titanic model I wish I have this 😭
Couldn't you use Tamiya modeling putty instead??? I hope so.......
yes I'm sure you could (and don't let this put you off if that's what you're using). Part of me just wanted to experiment a bit, and I also wanted a really strong bond on these. I keep saying it but I just know that at some point I will knock the model against something, probably getting it in or out the car when I want to sail it. And the propshafts are particularly vulnerable. So I went for something really strong
I know the feeling (fear of bumping or hitting something with it,( Ice bergs aside) JB weld is a good chose especially marine grade, I just happen to have a couple of tubes of the modeling putty and was just wondering, Carry On.........lol