Radio Control Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic Build Part 7 - Hull Painting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- This is the seventh in a series of videos I’m going to produce to document the building of my Trumpeter 1:200 model Titanic. In this episode I cover the painting of my hull. Tricky little job, and I use little mildly here!
Hopefully this gives some tips on how, or how not to pain a hull! I am delighted with the result but I do suggest a few things that I would do differently at the end which may be worth looking at.
One other thing, my videos may start to slow down a bit because im moving house! So sorry for this, I'll try and keep them going as best I can but I have a lot of decorating to do!
It’s taken months to work out how I am going to build this, and I have quite a lot left to do.
It’s just a hobby for me so don’t expect videos every other day.
This isn’t really a how to guide, it’s just my way of building things. If some of you get some ideas from it that's brilliant, but equally if you have any suggestions, I’m all ears.
List of parts used:
Red Oxide Primer: www.wonderland...
White Primer: www.wonderland...
White Paint: www.wonderland...
Black Paint: www.wonderland...
Sheerline Yellow: www.wonderland...
NATO Black: www.wonderland...
Tamiya 10mm Masking Tape: www.wonderland...
Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning (you can get this everywhere).
Music:
www.bensound.c...
Success by Mixaund - mixaund.bandcamp.com
Fresh Fallen Snow - Chris Haugen - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks you're doing a fantastic job on this build and seeing the painted hull come to life is really breathtaking....
I am thinking on using the same colour scheme as yours, I would like when I do my diorama, to be as close to accurate as possible...I cant wait to see how you're building the rest of the model, it's really coming to life every video you do, keep up the good work.
Love the effect of the plates on the hull, looks great in black..
Yeah they are really nice.
One of the things I like about the kit, it has its problems for sure but I do like the plating
Wonderful job with the painting. Very well done
Incredible job on painting Titanic's hull, looks like what I think it look like.
😁I don't have the money for the trumpeter Titanic,but it was clear to me that if i had,it needs more than that to complete the modell.However i have 9 other ship modells in storage so the next thing is to get all the tools and colour for them which enter my budget😂
However i buildet the Airfix Titanic 1:400 a couple of month ago and i also used for the funnels tamija mad flesh.That comes very close to the original colour.The white and starline used for the funnels a special mixed colour with the name Buff.
So some of the surivers said that the original colour of the funnels where something between pink yellow orange.Later when i saw some recoloured photos of Titanic i found out that this colour is nearly perfect.
Nice video.Well done👍Greetings from germany ⚓😎✌
Hiya. You can reduce paint lift by "detacking" your masking tape first. Easiest way is on the back of your arm a few times. I appreciate with the size of this hull that is a lot to detack, but it greately reduces the chance of paint lift. Also, keeping the tape on for as little time as possible helps as well. I personally remove masking tape almost straight away as soon as it is safe to do so, it also prevents the risk of the paint/tape creating a seal and the tape lifting the paint off at the demarkation line.
Loving this series so far though.
Just the video I needed. I have been drilling portholes for the last week and should be done tonight or tomorrow. Since I have detailed cad plans for the Titanic I have found that most of the portholes are too small with a few to large, and the rear C Deck portholes were missing. Once the drilling is done it will be paint time, but I want to fit the superstructure together on a temporary basis and see how it fits to the hull. I have heard stories that the fit issue may be a problem and my hull is not exactly straight at the top.
Yes so have I, I have done a few test fits but the parts are so long and bendy that’s it’s very difficult to work out if they are a good fit or not.
I don’t envy your drilling, a tough week! If you arnt already there is a dedicated Facebook group for this model which is brilliant for this kind of thing. I didn’t go to that level myself if drilling the portholes to correct diameters but I do think it’s odd that they arnt already. But that is this model down to a T really. Some fantastic bits of detail, and then no lifeboat covers!
@@TheModelBoatGuy I just recently finished making all bulkheads to make the hull the correct width to fit the superstructure. I put some videos together to show how I did it. I learned there is a big error in the width of the hull. My hull when measured to fit the superstructure measures around 134 mm wide O.D. With the Titanic being 92' - 6" wide at mid hull below the superstructure that should be 141 mm at a 1/200 scale. Ops we have a narrow hull. Anyway I just need to figure again how to format and upload to youtube. It has been a while and my video camera just went on the friz as I finished the last video on the superstructure. So I will have to learn how to narrate a video with a slide show like you do.
The titanic is AWSOME
An old boy engineer once told me that humbrol gloss buff, number 7 i think, was the closest colour to titanics funnels, the colour is decades old in their range hope this helps..
it pretty much depends on the person who is making the model. maybe they want to make a really vibrant colored titanic and just go with bright yellow, or some people go with a really faint yellow, I think the color you are saying is pretty accurate but it really depends on the person making the model
Really good work- thank you for sharing.
I agree about spraying the yellow rather than hand painting it - one would probably get less creep of the paint under the mask . I tend to add a bit of liquid mask under the tape in the difficult areas.
What did you use to drill out the portholes?
Thank you
Regards
Rob
Hi, good job! Yes I thought that the paint creep under the masking tape would be a problem, especially with all the raised plates and rivets! Very annoying! Hey don't forget the portholes at the top of the stern that Trumpeter left out because of the moulding complications! I have thought about making my gold line by creating my own Decals. I like your paint choice too, I have had difficulty in obtaining paint only yesterday! Hope the house move goes well for you. ;-)
A little tip on painting, use long even strokes from end to end, you will get much more even coverage, less chance of rund and the paint will go a lot farther. Hold the can 6 to 8 inches from the surface and keep moving-do not stop or hesitate while pressing the nozzle. Its best to practise on something that dosent matter
Thank you, I am certainly getting through spray cans like nobody's business! I was a bit of a novice with this when I started and I am noticing I am getting better as I go, its all a learning curve isn't it, thanks for your comment.
I will put this into practice next time :)
I've been using rattle can for over 40 years and that's definitely sound advice. Cheers from Australia.
With regard to paint bleeding under masking tape, I thought it a good idea, that the first coat of paint on the stripe should have been black ==> the colour onto which the tape is sticking, i.e. apply black paint on the not-yet-yellow stripe, the black bleeds under first (onto the alread black hull), and therefore "sealing" the tape edge in hope the second coat (yellow) can't bleed under as well. On my 1/350 I painted the hull top to bottom: 1st I applied white, 2nd put tape on the white, 3rd applied white along the tape edge to "seal" it, 4th applied yellow, 5th put tape on the yellow, 6th applied yellow along the tape edge, 7th applied black, 8th put tape on the black, 9th applied black along the tape edge, and 10th applied the red antifouling. Happy modelling!
Tell you what, that’s a great idea. I reckon that would work really well. I’ll try that next time, there’s a few other lines etc to paint on the model so I’ll give it a go 😃
An airbrush is probably a better method when painting plastic models. Much more control...less overspray, less waste.
this guy deserves 10k subs
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Video voice: Hello there!!!
me: General Kenobi!!
Very nice job! I have not started mine yet, and was very interested in your yellow stripe. Meanwhile, for the rusting, You might want to do more on the stbd side, as the port side had been freshly painted just before her first voyage. I'm thinking of going with a semi-gloss black and then using a flat black wash to show the coaling marks left on the hull. Cheers!
Ah ok that’s a bit of info I didn’t have, thanks for that I’ll take that into account. I mean the weathering will be light, but there will be bits and bobs I want to do :) your approach sounds good. I was thinking of doing a sort of deep black streaking around the coaling ports too. Let me know how yours comes out 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy 7게월저내3..?.
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Great vid, little tip while using rattle cans short bursts on the nozzle will give better results and almost reduce the chances of runs drips or thick spots to nothing.
thanks for this, defiantly a learning curve for me this. Im certainly a hell of a lot better now then i was filming this. theres a lot more technique to it that you realise at first!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yes it is, just got back into model making myself so a whole load of stuff I'm relearning at the min.
Well done! Looking forward to seeing you weather the black👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi modelboat guy, just a quickie. the trumpeter kit comes with an instruction book on how to build the model and one to do the led lightiing. my question is when do i start to do the led lighting ? it obviosly has to be done in a certain sequence but neither instruction book gives me clear indication of what to do and when. cheers
I would do as much as you can before you start gluing. Otherwise you might find you have sealed something that you need to access later!
Other than that though I’m not entirely sure, I tended to build one deck at a time, get all the lighting done then move onto the next deck up etc
Cheers you'd think for how much the kit cost they would have been a bit clearer on the assembly. Saw your video on how to do soldering and that answered a few more questions!@@TheModelBoatGuy c
I remember a couple years ago I was painting a titanic model and I didn’t properly seal the tape on the stern and when I took the tape off there was black lines going down the red section and then I had to repaint it.
Ah yeah I have done that on other models too! It’s one of those learning curve bits isn’t it 😛
At least it’s a relatively simple fix
Hi. Greetings from Cherbourg a town you already heard about I think. Congratulations for your job. I read comments about colours choice and will try rubber black and dull red from Tamiya. Those spray only contain 100 ml. Hull is really big . How much bottles do you think I need ? 2x black, 2x red and 2x white ? For the funnels, only one ? Thank you.
Hello from London! Nice to hear from you. Thanks for your comment, yeah I think the rubber black is a good option, probably gets you quite close to what I got with the wash in one single paint. I got through two of the black sprays, two of the red, and two of the white.
But to be fair, to make sure I don’t get light bleed under the decks I’m also spraying the decks black too so am now onto my third can!
I haven’t sprayed the funnels yet but I only have one can and I’m confident that should be enough
Hi Thank you very much for your informations and advices. Now I can place order for paint. 👌
I have a question I bought black tamiya ts 14 because my local shop hasn't recieved any Matte black in a month and came out shiny like plastic and would like to know if there's a way to remove the gloss? I seen videos of tamiya flat clear or can I just paint over it with a matte color instead without sanding the paint down?
Hi there,
It’s not ideal, as I tend to find paint dosent stick very well onto glossy paint.
But you can certainly try using a matt varnish, and that might well tone the glossy black down (even if it dosent remove the gleam completely)!
Great video. Love the washing line! Just a small point; when you are touching up the black red and white are you using the content of the spray paints, (presumably spraying some into a pot)? I often find I get a brush line mark when I do that. Let me know?
Hi, thanks! Good things washing lines! Yeah I get the paint for touching up just by spraying it into the lid. I have got a little bit of brush strokes but they’re not bad by any means. I tend to find the paint is so thin coming out the cans that it dosent matter. And in my case the areas needing touching up were so small that they are practically invisible.
I’m not sure what you would do to solve it really though. I guess you could make a sort of spray booth around the area that needs improvement with cardboard and masking tape but it is a tricky job.
The finish paint work looks great. I too have had problems with Tamiya red primer peeling off while removing the tape. Please be careful on your weathering, remember Titanic never finished a ocean crossing and started her first passenger service the next day after getting her certificate. She would still look fresh and not very weathered when she went down.
How much weathering would she have received in so few days at sea, did she even drop and raise her anchors?
She did drop her anchors while picking up passengers in France as she drew to deep to dock. I am sure she must have a little rust starting in spots along the waterline but I doubt if there was anything higher up. She only spent a few days on the open sea.
The only thing I do want to show. Is that she was new to passenger service but she wasn’t ‘box fresh’. Her desks will have been washed and she will have been rained on, birds may have done their business on her! I intend to do a very light weathering job, but I want a few little streaks here and there
Amazing 👍👍
Its me again, just for clarity, you primed the inside of the hull White but then when you showed the stills later in the video it was Black. Did you spray the Black but not show it on the video and if so did the Black paint not exit the portholes onto the exterior of the hull? With regard to the anti fouling paint, I used Rust-Oleum surface primer in Matt on my Minicraft kit and that was fantastic, I had no issues with it coming away with the masking tape.
Hi there, yeah I painted it black after the white prime. I used that NATO black paint that wasn’t quite appropriate for the external paint.
My logic was that black was needed to ensure light didn’t leak out the hull.
But no it didn’t leak out the hull. I think I did it before painting the rest of the hull though, so that might be the way to go
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks for clarifying.
just a quick question, I'm just about to start my 2nd academy before moving onto a trumpeter I have the flyhawk expansion so lots of photo etch to help me practice, I'm using the same method you have used of UV resin for portholes, just wondering did you paint before doing resin for portholes? surely if you do portholes first then paint the resin will just get covered in paint? many thanks
Yes i painted first then portholes. At the time someone raised a concern that this might make the porthole a little weak as if the paint chipped the glass would come out, but I’ve not had any issues with them.
The alternative is to do the portholes first then paint, then rub the porthole with some turps or alcohol after to remove the paint. But I reckon paint then resin works just fine
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks very much for the reply! been loving your build since day 1 always keep going back through your series for inspiration on applying similar techniques to my own model, and yeah I was leaning more towards doing resin after paint because 1/400 scale the portholes get very small just above the water line and I wouldn't want to ruin the paint with rubbing alcohol, thanks again!
Regarding red primer, next time perhaps try Tamiya acrylic rHull Red. Goes on beautifully
Ah ok, I will have a look for it, I think after a couple of years sailing the hull will need work anyway. I’m tempted to give it a lighter colour next time. The debate about anti fouling colours rages on as always without coming to a conclusion, but I suspect my choice is a wee bit too dark? The hull red looks a shade lighter perhaps?
@@TheModelBoatGuy yes it is lighter and more durable than the red primer. I use acrylic paints and the n cost with an enamel varnish as you have done. I’ve found this combination to be very resilient to bumps etc. Where are you based? I’m in Surrey
It looks really great but what made you decide to use no photo etch for the hull at all thats out there for this..
Oh do you mean the photo etch additions for the hull with the more realistic rivet seams? If so the honest answer is two fold, I would have liked to but I can’t really afford it! But more importantly the photo etch would stop be being able to lift the superstructure off to access the RC gear below!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi that makes total sense,I perhaps should have thought of that.
When i mask up for painting, I go over the edge of the tape with a cocktail stick to get a better seal between the tape and model. You get far less paint seepage that way. Just a suggestion.
Yeah I think that is a good idea. To a point I think you’re always going to get a bit of seepage but yeah deffo stop more that way. I’ll do that next time I mask up!
@@TheModelBoatGuy l use the Testers burnishing tool. It has a handle similar to an Xacto knife for the #11 blade.
www.amazon.com/Excel-Burnishing-Set-4-Tips/dp/B003PA4ABW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=excel+burnishing+set&sr=8-3
I always start with a light coat of the masked color right over the masking line that way if there’s seepage, it’s the same color. Obviously let it dry before spraying the 2nd color
Did you consider Tamiya's TS-33 for the hull? It is a paint (don't know how it compares to a primer) and is, from my knowledge, practically the same colour.
I did yeah, I mean like you say they are very close, but I thought the hull red was just a touch darker than the red oxide primer. That was my logic. For a long time I was going to do a much lighter anti fouling colour like the one from this website www.titanic-cad-plans.com/color-guide/
But quite a lot of the forums and such have suggested against this!
goodluck on moving be safe.
Cheers! I’m in that bit where im waiting for all the legal stuff to clear then I’m in. Just want to get started really!
Great video - given me lots of ideas. I was toying with satin black but I think the matt looks better. Just a quick question (if you have time) regarding your hull - mine has a quite noticeable warping inwards along it and it is a bit wavy. Hard to see from the video if yours suffers the same problem. Trying to work out if it is normal or if I need to send this one back :( Thanks
Hi, thanks! It was a fun job actually. I personally prefer matt finishes over satins in this kind of scale. And I am quite pleased with my result but another comment suggests Tamiya rubber black which defiantly produces very good results, it gives that slightly white/blue addition that mine lacks atm. But hey it’s personal preference and whatever you do needs to work for you!
The hull, yeah I have a very slight deformation, but it’s not bad at all, and I intend to straighten mine out by adding some bulkheads in (partly to stop water ingress and partly for strengthening and straightening). But my hull isn’t very deformed, no more than a couple of mm on either side. I think if yours is deformed to the point that you are bending the plastic with a decent bit of force I’d consider sending it back.
I guess it might take a bit of time to get a replacement but it’s an expensive model, they should provide a quality part 🙂
Quite a few people have warped hulls. Check out Nigels Modelling Bench (on youtube). He has created, and sells, sets of bulkheads to fix the issue. I bought some and can recommend.
I actually have some already! But it is still wavy and quite pinched at the top. Am worried the superstructure won’t sit flush on it . Don’t want to send back if that’s normal but equally don’t want to go to effort of build if it won’t like right at the end
To me, if you have tried and fitted some bulkheads and your hull is still out of line I’d send it back. Or at least contact trumpeter and start the process. That dosent sound right at all. If I had three bulkheads in my hull it would be the right shape
HI. I didn't understand what type or brand of red for the hull you used
It’s this paint:
www.wonderlandmodels.com/tamiya-surface-primer-red-oxide-180ml-spray
For reference all my videos have the stuff I use in the descriptions :)
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi, thanks for the reply. Did you basically use the red primer instead of a paint?
@@Interismomerdawjuve yep pretty much, it gave the colour I was after.
It’s coated with a protective enamel varnish too to give a strong outer layer
@@TheModelBoatGuy Is the primer better than, for example, the Tamiya TS-33 Dull Red?
@@Interismomerdawjuve tbh I don’t know. I think it is sensible to use a primer first regardless of the colour you use.
So even if you use the dark red I’d still use a primer before that.
But honestly I would do a bit of trial and error. See what looks good on the hull, colours can look very different when actually painted onto a model!
I'm having difficulty doin the antifouling line between the red and black.(water line) I just don't know the proper way to complete this. Please help!!
I made a mark at the bow and stern for the anti fouling. And a mark in the middle of the hull. Then masked those points making a smooth curve between them. Have a look at source material on line to see where you should make those marks. The waterline is very nearly flat, but has a very subtle bend in it as it curves up to meet the bow and stern.
If you’re not happy with your masking, take it off and go again
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks man!!
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Is wonderlandmodels still a good source for paint
I would say so yeah. It’s a fantastic shop to visit if you ever get the chance.
But there are plenty of online shops to get pain from. As much as anything the links I have added are so people can see the product codes
time index 32:10 - Another Iconic scene of the Titanic's Bow, this scene has been viewed a number of times in posters, artwork and most importantly in the movie TITANIC from James Cameron where they view the Titanic head on inside the submersible.
Yeah it’s one of the great things about this model, you keep getting flashes of iconic photos of the ship. It’s really cool!
How long do you let the paint dry before Masking it?
Make sure you do the correct White Star Buff color for the funnels and use the Internet!
Quick question: to get your waterline (which is great btw) I assume you took the three reference points that are on Titanic-cad. But then did you do a pencil line to adhere to the tape to or did you just 'eyeball it'. Doing this line for mine this week (which is currently in rough Olympic at launch colours) and was curious as to any tips you might have. Thanks
You’re pretty much spot on yeah. I took three references, middle, and the bow and stern. And also marked a couple of other key points like where the waterline crosses the bilge ports. And just eyeballed from there. It took an age and being able to get a good distance away from the model to look at it in one go was a big help too.
Initially I also made a mistake with the port bow and had to re do that after my first coat of black
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thanks for that - it looks great so it was worth the effort. Out of interest, how many cans of black did it take?
Many thanks! Certainly a good few hours spent with the masking tape!
I used two cans of black, and in reality will probs use another one by the time I finish the model. Once I’ve done my funnels and other details in black
u could have asked some of the youtube viewers, i myself am really satisfied with rubberblack from tamiya what gives you a greyblue ish black
for the red primer, yes i see you problem, spray more coats or use dull red from tamiya and ur golden, finish everyhting with semigloss and u will have a realistic model and not a toy o/
Aaah no! I actually discovered rubber black just after placing my order for paints. So I thought I would try the others and see. But yeah I have seen a few people on the Facebook groups with rubber black and it looks fabulous. I guess if I can’t achieve what I want with weathering effects I’ll remask and paint it with rubber black.
Thank you for your comment 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy btw mate, i just started a discord for RC and modelbuilding, groups and forums are outdated in my opinionn especialyl sometimes people cant write things that good or its an easier thing to wortk with voice with them, anyways, join if u like its still in the process of getting big and potentially its a great tool for you and your viewers aswell
i wantedto make visd but im just really lazy and i dont have actualyl building space myself so it would look pretty bad.
here the link: discord.gg/fK2zRxF
@@TheModelBoatGuy btw, what are you going to use as a controller? and are you adding anything else? like steam, LEDs or sound?
Apologies if I missed it but was the NATO black not a goer? Loving your work, incredibly useful videos
No worries! No it was a little bit too green in the end. So I went with the Humbrol matt black.
Some people were talking about a Tamiya colour called Rubber black which sounded quite good
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thanks, yes I was pondering over the flat rubber black last night myself so now I'm convinced its worth a punt! It seems to be closer to Cameron's model hull colour (th-cam.com/video/iVdXX0xM3t4/w-d-xo.html) which feels right. Will see how it turns out!
Aah good! I’ll be interested to hear your thoughts. I know a lot of people have been talking about it. Where as the NATO black is a sort of greeny black I think the rubber black is a bluey black which is what you’re probably after. Hope it goes well!
Hi there, did you use a matt, satin or gloss enamel varnish?
As yet I haven’t varnished the hull, but I intend to use matt varnish. I am planning on doing another hull painting video soon showing the light weathering and varnishing
This is what I call science.
say, do you wash your model pieces before you paint them? like in warm, soapy water? when they arrive, they can have fingerprints and dust which can lead to a not-so strong adhesion for paint and the like... you seem to be pretty high quality with your models, and if you aren't washing them, id recommend it, not to make it sound like i've been modeling for a million years.....
Hi, yeah I think cleaning the parts is essential. I tend to use isopropyl alcohol just because it’s really easy, and it really cuts through any grease that you might have left by handling the parts. But yeah soapy water does just fine.
I would normally check all the parts are in the set, give them a quick clean and then a more thorough clean when I actually use them.
This tends to apply to older kits. Modern molding processes negate the need to do this. A simple wipe over with Isopropyl is all that is really needed. If a kit is 10+ years old then the releasing agents/processes used were less advanced, in which case a good wash would be advisable.
Dominic Sibthorp lol, i look at my Arizona 1/426 revell its from the 50’s or 60’s, although that is simply when the mold was made. Revell tends to have older models, if I’m right. That’s good to know, although i dont think any of the models available in my area are within that newer time period, Thanks!!
@@Wambampy Revell is a bit of a mixed bag/lottery. Scalemates' website is pretty handy for working out the origins of a given kit. It's community driven so may not always be 100% accurate but 99% of the time it's bang on. For example, a 1/12 Renualt F1 from 2019 car I have on hold is actually an old Prontos (or something) kit from the 1970's...so it is useful to work out if something is a new tool or simply a rebox.
Pardon the late comment. I would think the Titanic, being on a Maiden Voyage to the USA, would not have any kind of a weathered look. I would have been spic and span, so to speak, to impress the passengers and show her off once arriving in New York. I never could understand the rush to weather this vessel. It is common on many of the Titanic build threads.
Hi there, this is a thing that comes up regularly.
Whilst titanic was a new ship on her maiden voyage in April 1912, bear in mind she was launched in may 1911. That’s 11 months in the sea, salty water, salty sea winds, rain, snow, etc etc. So while she was new in the sense she was completed by her maiden voyage. All the metal work on her was exposed to the elements for almost a full year before this. Another thing to bear in mind is she was powered by coal. The process of filling a vessel with coal was incredibly dirty, dust would have got absolutely everywhere! So again something else that would have contributed to her looks.
Interestingly the white star line repainted Titanics port side (the side that faced Southampton docks) for her maiden voyage, but didn’t bother with her starboard side, so clearly there was some weathering that they wanted to hide for the new ship on her first voyage. Internally as you say I think she would have been absolutely brand new.
Weathering is one of those tricky things on models, it’s very hard to know when to stop, I would say competitively my weathering is quite light compared to others, but it’s a personal choice like so many things!
I absolutely get why someone would want to model titanic in a pristine state, but I believe that she would have some subtle signs of weathering despite her young age. The sea, salty water is so incredibly good at causing rust, and coal dust is so dark and sticky, I think some signs of use would be visible.
Me looking at this cuz i want it : :)
Also me knowing im to poor : :')
LOL -How about making your bed and keeping the house tidy :)
😂 nah man I’m good as is!
I’m in a new house now anyway so I don’t have to work out my bedroom!
Hello the funnel color on the ship is white star line buff it will be the same color as the yellow stripe on the ship
Well it has been disputed what colour white star line buff is, but it has a more pink tone than the stripe is. But the yellow stripe is not the same colour as the funnels.
Don't use spray but an airbrush like a Colani from steenbeck for the type of model 1/200 oh my god.
I’m using my airbrush on smaller areas
I would never spray paint it. I'm going to be painting my model ship.
You're going to hand brush a 130cm ship hull?
Fair enough, each to their own. I found I got a better finish with spray
You could never pull off an even finish on a five foot long hull. Spraying is correct and really the only way it would look professional. This is 450.00 kit. You don't want to ruin it.
How much sr
Overdoing most things...do not need primer.....Paint outside in summer and get insects stuck to it....masking tape too tight...press lightly....pull tape away from existing paint when removing
You sound like you’ve done this longer than me! It’s a learning process after all. I am a lot better at these things now than I was then simply because I’ve had more practice. Hopefully next time it will be a better result!
Now all your plants will be red, black, and yellow!
Haha well yes, admittedly I’m not that accurate with the old spray cans! But it’s good to make the weeds look that bit more colourful !
real color was oxide red .
Why does everyone use that same banjo music nowadays??
Good question, I have been hearing it everywhere but I quite like it. It’s a bit reminiscent of the furies 😛
✌️✌️✌️🇧🇪wow
Аэрограф в помощ
Ilikyorvidos
안녕하새유.ㅡㅡ