I don't give a shit what you say, your a mechanic. From the way you explained the ignition system of the car, to the way to take shit apart to learn about it. Your a mechanic through and though. Maybe not with modern cars, but back in the day with that car you would have been top notch. Not many today understand old 6v positive ground systems. I'm a master certified ASE tech, and last week when I bought my 51 Chrysler I was blown away, I had to buy a service manual and all that just to understand the 6v system. It's wild how they built cars in that day. And I'm not gonna lie, I learned a bit about 6v ignition from your video!
Three things about condensers. 1- The condenser can be thought of as an electrical shock absorber. 2- There are a lot of problems with new condensers made now a days, because they're made very cheaply. I'm not hearing that any effort is being made to improve the quality of modern condensers. 3- all of us car guys should make an effort to seek out and hold onto old condensers because they were well made. The old well made condensers will last a long time, and this in spite of our training to replace the condenser every time we tune-up engines that use points. So no matter how bad a condenser might look on the outside because from banging around the bottom of some old tool box for years, it can still be very good on the inside. I've just found your channel, and this is the third video I've watched. Good informative videos that are perfect for young people learning as well as nice refreshers for us older guys. Thank you for the effort you put in to make them. I've subscribed.
you may be installing wrong mfd value its not a 1 size fits all that condenser has to match the coil electricly ===try if its running take a plug wire offinsert screwdriver hold it close to eng 1/4in to see spark at idle speed how far can you move before it stops sparking with correct condenser it will jump 1/2 to 3/4 in if you are in good shape if not you may installed wrong condenser you can tell if your points are pitting its wrong value if the voltage can not go thru condenser to gd thru the can it will jump across open points pitting them over time
do you know condensers are rated = mfds if you install wrong mfd poor results your coil and condenser have to match otherwise poor results check with parts dealer for part # s that year and model cross ref. to find one that fits your eng .one way to tell wrong cond. is weak spark another pitting points these cond look alike but inside is what counts with correct conenser spark will jump 1/2 to 3/4 in at idle use screw driver inserted in plug wire held close to eng i fixed mine from 1/8 to 3/4 inch made my m37 happy
The very end of this video helped answer a question about the gasket at the bottom of the distributor. I wasn't sure if there should be one or not. Now to figure out what it is. Thanks
H Keith, If you have a overhead light over your work bench turn it on please as you have one half of your bench in bright sunlight and your carburetor in the shade where its hard to see, otherwise you tutorials are great... I learned to Chalk the timing mark on the pulley so I could see that timing mark easier .. Glad to here you mention using a vacuum gauge as you can adjust timing and the carb at idle speed with one.. Also when the pig tail wire in the distributor between the points and the inside of the main ignition power from coil. Now when the vacuum advance pulls the advance plate that 1 1/2" long pig tail wire moves a million times or more in its service life and the original cloth lacquered covering on the pig tail wire will fray in time and short out on the advance plate, it happened to me in 1976 while on a date in my 48 Plymouth that was original and we got home by wrapping some plastic electrical tape around the wire and we made it home and I replaced it and always checked that wire on every Autolite Distributor before it went into a MoPar after that.... Keith, Keep up the great work sharing them repair tips in your tutorial... Tom (20)
Unfortunately my timing was bad as the sun was low in the sky, shining in my garage. I'll mind the lighting issues the next time I make a video. No, I don't have a light directly over my bench as seen in the video. Thanks for the kind words.
Shooting my videos from the hip, un-scripted and little to no production preparation, I find myself making lots of verbal slip ups. LOL. I leave them in. It's part of the personal touch in my videos.
You really should bite the bullet and get anew wiring harness from Road island wiring . Their the best and can help with any questions over the phone. Cost about 700 for my 1936 dodge .
Thanks for the tip Richard. However I am replacing my wiring as time allows. Building my own harnesses. I'm willing to give up more time than money. LOL.
Thanks for walking through everything so well. I have a 38 that is even the same color. Your videos are so helpful. The original coil has the hot running into the back of the coil with a metal sleeve. I can’t figure out how to get it out without cutting it. Any help?
Thanks for watching! I did remove the original coil and install a new 6V coil. The rear mount wire type is required unless you want to keep it stock stock. I did not. Especially once I saw the price that the original rear wire type coils are. I made a new wire from the key switch to the coil. The armour for the wire was cut and not not re-used. I'm not overly worried about anyone stealing my 38, nor keeping it 100% stock. Mine is a driver.
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks for the reply! I did find that there are tabs on the rear of the original coil that if bent allow access to the wire. I got her to start for the first time this weekend! Now it is on to the brakes so we can roll down the block a bit.
@@keithsgarage5831 I ran a hot to the original coil, fuel from a lawnmower tank and she fired right up. runs real smooth too which was a pleasant surprise. Guess I have a bad ignition switch. I think I will go along the same lines as you did and get a regular 6v coil when the time comes. No way this ol girl can be 100% original and I buy them because I like to drive them and spend time with them.
I've been watching video after video and was wondering if the wiring for 6 volt and 12 volt to the distributor and the points where the same? If I even said it right
Hi i have a 1949 dodge i beleive is a 250 because on the left hand side its stamped 250 but has a overhaul tag from some shop that says it has 40 over pistons so is it a 290 or a 218 with bore 40 over to a 250?
@@keithsgarage5831 oh wow such a pleasure this got trough to a reply i really have enjoyed all your channel and have learned alot im new to this thanks for all the help👍👍
Measure your stroke? Get a small wood dowel. Loosen all spark plugs. As per shown in my recent video on setting the valves. Insert dowel in access hole above #6 cylinder. Then rotate crank by hand by turning the fan blade. Figure out your stroke length.
@@keithsgarage5831 stoke lenght would be on that tag i believe it says rod size 10 and then main size 10 and on the side of the block 49 stamped then under that 6-10
you are saying it fires when points go grounded ???? they are grounded all the time except when the cam opens the points that is when it fires the points are bolted to the dist. so when they close the whole systen is grounded when they go open the voltage goes to the condenser so the condenser has to be the right value to obtain max spark ---this is acalled a resonance circuit ------i=-e/r ohms law the r value has to be zero theway to tell if you have right cond your points wont pit if they are pitting you have wrong cond . a lot of cond look alike but whats in side counts
I don't give a shit what you say, your a mechanic. From the way you explained the ignition system of the car, to the way to take shit apart to learn about it. Your a mechanic through and though. Maybe not with modern cars, but back in the day with that car you would have been top notch. Not many today understand old 6v positive ground systems. I'm a master certified ASE tech, and last week when I bought my 51 Chrysler I was blown away, I had to buy a service manual and all that just to understand the 6v system. It's wild how they built cars in that day. And I'm not gonna lie, I learned a bit about 6v ignition from your video!
Three things about condensers. 1- The condenser can be thought of as an electrical shock absorber. 2- There are a lot of problems with new condensers made now a days, because they're made very cheaply. I'm not hearing that any effort is being made to improve the quality of modern condensers. 3- all of us car guys should make an effort to seek out and hold onto old condensers because they were well made. The old well made condensers will last a long time, and this in spite of our training to replace the condenser every time we tune-up engines that use points. So no matter how bad a condenser might look on the outside because from banging around the bottom of some old tool box for years, it can still be very good on the inside.
I've just found your channel, and this is the third video I've watched. Good informative videos that are perfect for young people learning as well as nice refreshers for us older guys. Thank you for the effort you put in to make them. I've subscribed.
you may be installing wrong mfd value its not a 1 size fits all that condenser has to match the coil electricly ===try if its running take a plug wire offinsert screwdriver hold it close to eng 1/4in to see spark at idle speed how far can you move before it stops sparking with correct condenser it will jump 1/2 to 3/4 in if you are in good shape if not you may installed wrong condenser you can tell if your points are pitting its wrong value if the voltage can not go thru condenser to gd thru the can it will jump across open points pitting them over time
do you know condensers are rated = mfds if you install wrong mfd poor results your coil and condenser have to match otherwise poor results check with parts dealer for part # s that year and model cross ref. to find one that fits your eng .one way to tell wrong cond. is weak spark another pitting points these cond look alike but inside is what counts with correct conenser spark will jump 1/2 to 3/4 in at idle use screw driver inserted in plug wire held close to eng i fixed mine from 1/8 to 3/4 inch made my m37 happy
The very end of this video helped answer a question about the gasket at the bottom of the distributor. I wasn't sure if there should be one or not. Now to figure out what it is. Thanks
H Keith, If you have a overhead light over your work bench turn it on please as you have one half of your bench in bright sunlight and your carburetor in the shade where its hard to see, otherwise you tutorials are great... I learned to Chalk the timing mark on the pulley so I could see that timing mark easier .. Glad to here you mention using a vacuum gauge as you can adjust timing and the carb at idle speed with one.. Also when the pig tail wire in the distributor between the points and the inside of the main ignition power from coil. Now when the vacuum advance pulls the advance plate that 1 1/2" long pig tail wire moves a million times or more in its service life and the original cloth lacquered covering on the pig tail wire will fray in time and short out on the advance plate, it happened to me in 1976 while on a date in my 48 Plymouth that was original and we got home by wrapping some plastic electrical tape around the wire and we made it home and I replaced it and always checked that wire on every Autolite Distributor before it went into a MoPar after that.... Keith, Keep up the great work sharing them repair tips in your tutorial... Tom (20)
Unfortunately my timing was bad as the sun was low in the sky, shining in my garage. I'll mind the lighting issues the next time I make a video. No, I don't have a light directly over my bench as seen in the video. Thanks for the kind words.
Keith you can test the vaccum advance sucking with a piece of hose.
I have learned so much from you thank you!!!
Glad to help
"A nice bright blue flame and ignites the flame" Hmm, On my 37 Plymouth it ignites the fuel/air mixture.
Joking aside, I love your videos!
Shooting my videos from the hip, un-scripted and little to no production preparation, I find myself making lots of verbal slip ups. LOL. I leave them in. It's part of the personal touch in my videos.
You really should bite the bullet and get anew wiring harness from Road island wiring . Their the best and can help with any questions over the phone. Cost about 700 for my 1936 dodge .
Thanks for the tip Richard. However I am replacing my wiring as time allows. Building my own harnesses. I'm willing to give up more time than money. LOL.
Thanks for walking through everything so well. I have a 38 that is even the same color. Your videos are so helpful. The original coil has the hot running into the back of the coil with a metal sleeve. I can’t figure out how to get it out without cutting it. Any help?
Thanks for watching! I did remove the original coil and install a new 6V coil. The rear mount wire type is required unless you want to keep it stock stock. I did not. Especially once I saw the price that the original rear wire type coils are. I made a new wire from the key switch to the coil. The armour for the wire was cut and not not re-used. I'm not overly worried about anyone stealing my 38, nor keeping it 100% stock. Mine is a driver.
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks for the reply! I did find that there are tabs on the rear of the original coil that if bent allow access to the wire. I got her to start for the first time this weekend! Now it is on to the brakes so we can roll down the block a bit.
Congrats. Did you install a new coil?
@@keithsgarage5831 I ran a hot to the original coil, fuel from a lawnmower tank and she fired right up. runs real smooth too which was a pleasant surprise. Guess I have a bad ignition switch. I think I will go along the same lines as you did and get a regular 6v coil when the time comes. No way this ol girl can be 100% original and I buy them because I like to drive them and spend time with them.
Keith I have a question.Your distributor is WAPSA or AUTOLITE? I think it is AUTOLITE type.
I thought I was listening to Mike Rowe the guy from dirty jobs you sound exactly like him lol
if dont have a timing light buy one they are needed to set timming correct
I've been watching video after video and was wondering if the wiring for 6 volt and 12 volt to the distributor and the points where the same? If I even said it right
I don’t own any cars with points that are 12V to compare. However saying that, yes I believe they are wired up the same.
correct parts are avail . for these old eng mine is a 1953 m37 i can get any part i want the correct condenser makes all difference in proper fireing
Hi i have a 1949 dodge i beleive is a 250 because on the left hand side its stamped 250 but has a overhaul tag from some shop that says it has 40 over pistons so is it a 290 or a 218 with bore 40 over to a 250?
Put a measuring tape along your block. How long is it? 23” or 25” long?
@@keithsgarage5831 oh wow such a pleasure this got trough to a reply i really have enjoyed all your channel and have learned alot im new to this thanks for all the help👍👍
@@keithsgarage5831 it is lenght 25 and a 1/4 " by 7 and 1/4" wide flathead six
Measure your stroke? Get a small wood dowel. Loosen all spark plugs. As per shown in my recent video on setting the valves. Insert dowel in access hole above #6 cylinder. Then rotate crank by hand by turning the fan blade. Figure out your stroke length.
@@keithsgarage5831 stoke lenght would be on that tag i believe it says rod size 10 and then main size 10 and on the side of the block 49 stamped then under that 6-10
I have a 1949 dodge inline 6 and am having trouble finding parts
Google search Vintage Power Wagons and Andy Bernbaum.
you are saying it fires when points go grounded ???? they are grounded all the time except when the cam opens the points that is when it fires the points are bolted to the dist. so when they close the whole systen is grounded when they go open the voltage goes to the condenser so the condenser has to be the right value to obtain max spark ---this is acalled a resonance circuit ------i=-e/r ohms law the r value has to be zero theway to tell if you have right cond your points wont pit if they are pitting you have wrong cond . a lot of cond look alike but whats in side counts
Points open, spark fires. Ok. It is a little confusing to get straight. I agree, you're right.
please check my comment on your dwell meter video