This is so funny! I just went through the exact same thing installing a new oil pump on my '49 Plymouth. I followed the manual with lining up the slot in the gear and rotating the gear one tooth counterclockwise. I spent hours removing the pump and readjusting it with out any luck. THEN I noticed that second adjustment slot on the distributor, DOH! Wish I had seen this video earlier! Still nice to see someone else did the same thing I did. Thanks for posting!
You are a Godsend! I couldn't figure why they gave so little adjustment until now. I can finally time my car (53 Plymouth). I solved the slow start with another of you videos; the battery cables were too thin. I went to Harbor Freight and bought 2/0 inverter cables for $35.00 and now it turns over quickly.
@@keithsgarage5831 At top Dead centre my rotor is roughly in the 9 oclock position.I have checked TDC 4 ways(dowel over 6th cylinder,loose play on value tappets on No1,timing mark is lined up to marked flywheel (dead centre mark) and number 1 is on compression stroke. I'm guessing oil pump is off a cog ? Question. Does it really matter ? Firing will still occur in same order and rotation.As long as distributor cap and more importantly rotor ,lines up to the number 1 high tension lead (and distributor has room for timing adjustment via base clamp) What are your thoughts.Thank you for the amazing videos.Im working on a 42 Dodge D60s tipper with a 25" 237 Wouldn't be this far ahead if it wasn't for your videos.thanks
@@bazmarty6084 It doesn’t really matter. As long as you can acess the major and minor timing adjustments. Use a timing light and set it as needed. It won’t know the difference and it’ll run fine.
It sounds so smooth. Thanks for sharing the tip about the major / minor distributor adjustment. Coming from a 70's Volkswagen I would have missed that hugely important detail.
Keith, another great, informative video! My 1935 was out for a ride yesterday in the Texas 70 degree sun. Not all was perfect though.... found a new oil leak to chase down. :(
There is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the distributor housing to adjust your distributor timing. Turn your distributor upside down and look at it!
Oh boy! Thanks to typing in 1953 Dodge Regent, I'm now getting bunches of near year Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto clips... As I just bought a running and driving 1953 Dodge Regent four door, with what I'm told is a 230 ci, but the original owners manual notes the two Dodge sizes in the six cylinder, were 218 & 241 ... So, I'm slightly confused... Anyway, three speed without overdrive, four operating wing vents, Firestone glassbelt wide white walls with matching spare, no rust nor holes in the floorboards or trunk, almost flawless interior and exterior... I'm stoked (excited) as I traded a Willy's cj, with a broken transfer case, for this car... Actually, my third flathead I will have ever owned... All were '53's ! A '53 Ford Customline V8, a '53 Studebaker Champion 6, and now, the '53 Dodge Regent ... First two are long gone, but happy to be back in the flathead owners group again ... Best regards ...
I love these original restorations and repairs by the average car owner, as opposed to the guy who is pumping tens of thousands of dollars into his car.
I can't 100% say from memory. Start with a timing light. Then dial it in by ear and driving. A little pinging under load climbing a hill, then I advance it a little again so it's right in the sweet spot.
Hey Keith, looking good and progress is coming along smoothly. Like the distributor information as will be helpful for another rookie like myself. Wondering if you ever thought of running Evans waterless coolant instead of anti-freeze? I run it in my old ‘47 Willys and she gets up to 180F with a 160F thermostat but being water free saves everything from corrosion. Just want to know your thoughts besides the higher price point.
I like the concept of waterless coolant. The price is a bit of a hang up for me. I seem to be going into my engine or rad for some issue or other, fairly regularly. Trying to capture and recover the waterless coolant would take more effort. At this point I am not overly concerned about trying to get my operating temps down. We'll see how things go this summer. I will consider it if needed.
Set the major adjustment forward or back to get the timing with the range needed. Lock it down. Then use the standard “daily” adjustment to fine-tune the timing as needed. I really like using my Snap-On dwell meter to help dial things-in quickly and accurately.
i can tell you an easy way to set timing take spark plugs out so you can rotate engine look at crank case pully there should be so tiny mark in the metal rotate engine till you can see those marks standing on drivers side looking down at the pully there is a small metal arrow that the marks line up with if you see the marks move the fan till 4th mark from tdc is line ed with arrow now remove dist . cap rotor should be pointing at about 1 oclock position looking down if its not close to 1 oclock loosen bolt holding dist . slowly rotate dist till rotor is pointing at 1 oclock snug up that bolt holding dist so you bearly move dist put cap back on dist try to crank eng if it cranks rotate dist slowly to best sound tighten bolt to hold dist its timed now leave it be (LOL )lees than 5 min to do this----the 1 oclock pos is on #6 spark plug.
Man how am I just now finding your channel. Love that your fixing up these earlier Chryslers.
This is so funny! I just went through the exact same thing installing a new oil pump on my '49 Plymouth. I followed the manual with lining up the slot in the gear and rotating the gear one tooth counterclockwise. I spent hours removing the pump and readjusting it with out any luck. THEN I noticed that second adjustment slot on the distributor, DOH! Wish I had seen this video earlier! Still nice to see someone else did the same thing I did. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for your videos.Nice to see someone trying to figure things out in the real world and making mistakes,so hopefully I don't have to.
You are a Godsend! I couldn't figure why they gave so little adjustment until now. I can finally time my car (53 Plymouth). I solved the slow start with another of you videos; the battery cables were too thin. I went to Harbor Freight and bought 2/0 inverter cables for $35.00 and now it turns over quickly.
@@chrisbartol5973 that’s awesome. Great progress!
@@keithsgarage5831 At top Dead centre my rotor is roughly in the 9 oclock position.I have checked TDC 4 ways(dowel over 6th cylinder,loose play on value tappets on No1,timing mark is lined up to marked flywheel (dead centre mark) and number 1 is on compression stroke. I'm guessing oil pump is off a cog ? Question. Does it really matter ? Firing will still occur in same order and rotation.As long as distributor cap and more importantly rotor ,lines up to the number 1 high tension lead (and distributor has room for timing adjustment via base clamp) What are your thoughts.Thank you for the amazing videos.Im working on a 42 Dodge D60s tipper with a 25" 237 Wouldn't be this far ahead if it wasn't for your videos.thanks
@@bazmarty6084 It doesn’t really matter. As long as you can acess the major and minor timing adjustments. Use a timing light and set it as needed. It won’t know the difference and it’ll run fine.
It sounds so smooth. Thanks for sharing the tip about the major / minor distributor adjustment. Coming from a 70's Volkswagen I would have missed that hugely important detail.
Glad it helped!
@@keithsgarage5831
Hello Keith
If you are looking for another parts engine ,someone on used Victoria classic cars has one for $ 75.
Thanks for the peak at the f100 shock mounts... I'm gathering info to do that to my 54
I like seeing how excited you are about this build. Thank you for all the tips along the way on this rebuild. Looking forward to the first road test!
Keith, another great, informative video! My 1935 was out for a ride yesterday in the Texas 70 degree sun. Not all was perfect though.... found a new oil leak to chase down. :(
New subscriber, That is a real beauty! The old mopar flathead six cars are overlooked treasures.
👍🏻🇦🇺love old Mopars
There is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the distributor housing to adjust your distributor timing. Turn your distributor upside down and look at it!
I can see you chomping at the bit to getting her back on the road. Great tip Thanks
You bet
Oh boy! Thanks to typing in 1953 Dodge Regent, I'm now getting bunches of near year Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto clips... As I just bought a running and driving 1953 Dodge Regent four door, with what I'm told is a 230 ci, but the original owners manual notes the two Dodge sizes in the six cylinder, were 218 & 241 ... So, I'm slightly confused... Anyway, three speed without overdrive, four operating wing vents, Firestone glassbelt wide white walls with matching spare, no rust nor holes in the floorboards or trunk, almost flawless interior and exterior... I'm stoked (excited) as I traded a Willy's cj, with a broken transfer case, for this car... Actually, my third flathead I will have ever owned... All were '53's ! A '53 Ford Customline V8, a
'53 Studebaker Champion 6, and now, the '53 Dodge Regent ... First two are long gone, but happy to be back in the flathead owners group again ... Best regards ...
Thanks Im about to do my timing on the 52 Cranbrook .
I think I had the same distributor issue on my Slant Six, and discovered the same adjustment.
Wouldn't the shop manual have exlained timing?
I’d run Lucas fuel ⛽️ additive in that car 24 /7 it will keep everything clean from the fuel ⛽️ tank to the carb 👍🏻🇦🇺. She beautiful .
I love these original restorations and repairs by the average car owner, as opposed to the guy who is pumping tens of thousands of dollars into his car.
Hi Keith
I have a 6 volt timing light somewhere, that needs a small repair…never thought a 12 volt timing light would work on my 6 volt system
A 12V timing light won’t work on a 6V system. I am using a smaller external 12V battery here, so I can use my 12V timing light.
That's what I did too (12v external battery) on 6v systems.
great video. how many degrees before TDC is the setting for your engine?
I can't 100% say from memory. Start with a timing light. Then dial it in by ear and driving. A little pinging under load climbing a hill, then I advance it a little again so it's right in the sweet spot.
Hey Keith, looking good and progress is coming along smoothly. Like the distributor information as will be helpful for another rookie like myself. Wondering if you ever thought of running Evans waterless coolant instead of anti-freeze? I run it in my old ‘47 Willys and she gets up to 180F with a 160F thermostat but being water free saves everything from corrosion. Just want to know your thoughts besides the higher price point.
I like the concept of waterless coolant. The price is a bit of a hang up for me. I seem to be going into my engine or rad for some issue or other, fairly regularly. Trying to capture and recover the waterless coolant would take more effort. At this point I am not overly concerned about trying to get my operating temps down. We'll see how things go this summer. I will consider it if needed.
So what did you do with the second adjustment ? Running into the same thing with my 50 coronet
Set the major adjustment forward or back to get the timing with the range needed. Lock it down. Then use the standard “daily” adjustment to fine-tune the timing as needed. I really like using my Snap-On dwell meter to help dial things-in quickly and accurately.
Keith, that’s fantastic. So how many degrees before TDC is the setting?
Once I get my new engine broken in, I’ll settle in on a final timing mark. Be a while yet.
What is the break in procedure?
i can tell you an easy way to set timing take spark plugs out so you can rotate engine look at crank case pully there should be so tiny mark in the metal rotate engine till you can see those marks standing on drivers side looking down at the pully there is a small metal arrow that the marks line up with if you see the marks move the fan till 4th mark from tdc is line ed with arrow now remove dist . cap rotor should be pointing at about 1 oclock position looking down if its not close to 1 oclock loosen bolt holding dist . slowly rotate dist till rotor is pointing at 1 oclock snug up that bolt holding dist so you bearly move dist put cap back on dist try to crank eng if it cranks rotate dist slowly to best sound tighten bolt to hold dist its timed now leave it be (LOL )lees than 5 min to do this----the 1 oclock pos is on #6 spark plug.
Hahahahaha! You found it!
you'll know when it's really tuned when it;s cold, choke's on and will start with one pull of the hand crank.