I love old cars. You finally explained ignition with points where I understand it. Knowledge is power. Thank you 1,000 times. Doug Lambert, Canton Ma!!!!
I was just given a 61' dodge power wagon. Someone put a 55' plymouth 231 flathead 6 in it. Just redid the entire ignition system. Your videos helped me understand the multi meter and how to check each component and not just part swap. Thankyou for making the content you do.
Thanks Keith! You saved my dad and I a lot of headache and time, we watched both videos and they were a lot of help. We have a 1953 Mercury M350 with a flathead v8 that suddenly quit on us. Used info from this video to diagnose a bad rotor, turns out it broke apart after we stopped to visit some family, were able to super glue it back together to get the truck home. Fired up first try. New ignition system parts are on their way!
I really appreciate your tutorials. I grew up with MSD’s and triggers, knew next to nothing about points. This will help me troubleshoot a neighbors 55 Tbird with 6V and no spark.
Best video series on the ignition system that I have seen yet. Hands down, nice job. Now I'll go apply this new understanding to my 64 Cadillac. Thank you!
Really useful stuff thanks a stack. As a new Mopar owner i’ve never been a petrol head about my cars. This has helped so much - keep up the good stuff 👌🏼
You must be doing something right Keith; I understood everything you said. I sat here nodding throughout the video. Now I'm no mechanic; I'm hardly even a beginner so, if I get it, you're teaching it properly. I never had anyone teach me. I watched others and fiddled with my own cars, with the help of the relevant Haynes manual. I can do the absolute basics but, unlike today's beginners, I can only work with a carburetted engine. I've only owned one vehicle without a carb and I believe it had an OBD port too - no use to me, none at all. I struggled to check the fluids on that one; there were so many plastic covers under the bonnet, I could hardly find the engine, let alone the dipstick. If you keep the videos at this level, I might actually learn something.😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Lol. Good to hear the topic was helpful. That is was my goal. To help out the beginners. I spend a fair bit of time researching and reading about this vintage car technical stuff. So I too can grasp as much as my pea brain can hold.
@@keithsgarage5831 Something I thought of while watching: it's helpful having such a clean, tidy engine bay when demonstrating this stuff. So much easier to see what's going on when there's not half an inch of rust/oil/grime covering everything. Being as well-maintained as this car is, you've not got all the seized/broken/missing hardware to deal with either.😁
Hey Keith Great vid ..Subbed Also that car is pretty cool reminds me of a 39 Plymouth with 37 style headlights(chrysler = more streamlined) as opposed to the square ones within the front fenders (39 plymouth hard to find) I have a 37 plymouth and I like the looks of yours plus it is in excellent condition that dash !!!!!! Will be going thru my system as I have no spark -I am 59 and your vid was very detailed and I should have an answers here soon -planning to check my main ground first but those other tests you showed me will get done as well !!!!! Thank you for this video !!!! A video on setting dwell would be cool !
Both of these videos were very helpful. I'm working on troubleshooting a no spark condition in a 1980 Honda Express moped (49cc single piston engine) and these videos gave me some direction on where to look and how to trouble shoot as well as general knowledge on points style ignition systems. I'm still having trouble getting spark even after thoroughly testing continuity and voltage with my multimeter. Would it be possible to send you an email/message with the issue I am having? You seem to know a lot about this and you also explained it very well and clearly so any help would be appreciated!
great video Keith, could you make a video on trouble shooting the starting circuit ? So us novices can repair a no crank condition. I have rewired my "55 Savoy and now I don't have any starter cranking , I have power at the key though, just not when the key is turned to start. Probably have a wire in a wrong location on the solenoid?
Thanks Dave. I'll consider making the video you suggested. Regarding your current problem: You need a shop manual with a wiring diagram and a digital multi-meter. Then you can track the circuit and find out exactly why it is not working.
@@keithsgarage5831 I will pick one up and get things right, thanks for you're response and continue with these excellent video's, your a great inspiration! and teacher😎
@@da1082 ill try to help ---when you turn on the key to start you connect 12 v to small lug on solenoid ( if fuse is good ) that connect two big bolts in side solenoid which conn 12 straight to starter if every thing is ok but if you only get a click by turning the key this tell you batt is good fuse is good but inside solenoid did not conn so no start now to prove shrt two big bolts on solenoid (pliers or screw driver ) starter should spin this tells you you need a solenoid
@@frankdavidson9675 thanks Frank, my '55 is a 6 volt system. I found out that my wiring was fine , and all the components in the starting circuit, but, the neutral start switch on the transmission needed to be grounded then everything works great 😃
I have a 1963 buick 198 v-6. Car sat 20yrs. Replaced everything electrical- power at both sides of ign. Coil- no spark at plug?? Power good between points contacts- how come no spark on plug?
Hi Keith .........Working on a 49 Chrysler Windsor Coupe (6 cyl) with no spark. Had spark last fall and it went away somewhere. Have followed your procedures in the video with no luck ...You mentioned a ground wire in the distributor that flexes with movement in the distributor...Mine looks questionable and may be grounding...Where might I find a replacement?
Keith, thanks so much for all of this info. I have good spark coming out of my ignition coil (I put a spark tester on the wire coming from the coil and it jumps the standard ignition gap). But I still have no spark at my spark plugs. What could this be? If the timing is off, could the rotor be attempting to jump while its in-between the contacts inside the cap? Thank you.
Check inside rotor cap closely. Little carbon button inside centre of cap missing? Rotor damaged? Carbon tracks inside of cap? Wires in proper sequence? Plug Wires in good shape?
@keithsgarage5831 I'm having the same issue. I've replaced the condensor on the distributor, new coil, can get it to spark between coil and block but not distributor/spark plug to block. Wires are good, new rotor, points clean and correct gap. Wires have continuity, I've got power hooked up directly to starter and constant 12v power supplied to my coil. Engine grounds clean. I've removed my distributor and am turning it over by hand looking for spark. What else would you recommend to check for?
@@Aesthention I know it has been 10 months ago -check ground to body making sure your spark plugs establish good ground -if you have a multi meter set to conectivity and hook one end to positive cable and touch base of plugs !!! and the head as well may have to scratch /clean area up !!
Im working on a 1957 boat that has a autolite IAY 4009 distributor that lost spark, I tried changing to an ignitor but that didnt work either, have 12 volts at the coil, that is also new. So the bolt that comes out of the side of the distributor that goes to the negative side of the coil the insulation broke apart when I changed to the ignitor. Do you know where I can get that? Thanks
I have a 36 Packard 120B with a dual pint distributor, postive ground system. I recently did a tune up with new points, wires, plugs, etc. I am having the darnest time ssetting the dual points to get the car to run smooth again. I have owned my Packard for several years and have rebuilt the carb, installed an electric fuel pump, installed a new fuel sending unit and am familiar with the car. Do you have any videos on setting a dual point distributor correctly? Thank you in advance.
The current doesn't jump, it is induced into the adjacent wires by magnetic induction unless the insulation is worn through. Move them apart to fix that. Your little tutorial was perfect otherwise. I'm a EE but also learn something in your videos and I love your 38 Chrysler.
Thanks for this video. I'm trying to trouble shoot a 1936 ford flathead v8 that it does not want to turn on. There is a wire from the switch to the ignition coil in the front that it has voltage when is not connected to coil, as soon we connect it to the coil we get no voltage. Anyone knows what is causing this or if it is normal?
Hello I have a thought, if you mount an external coil on a car with 6 volt posetive ground, (-39 ford coupe) should the battery cable (negative) go to + bat or - negative on the coil ?? confused 🙃 like your videos 👍🏻 greetings from Sweden
6V positive ground means the positive post from the battery is connected to the metal frame of the car and engine block. The common, communal return path of electrons back to the battery. The negative battery post is connected to the starter, ammeter, gauges, switches, lights etc. Easy to say that electrons leave the battery from the negative post. Travel to the load to do work,then carry on back to the battery via the common ground, to the positive post of the battery.
@@keithsgarage5831 thanks for the reply, so far I understand. thinking specifically of the coil, the negative (-) from the battery that goes directly to the coil, do you connect it to the designation + or - on the coil? think if the current must go in a certain direction or in this case that - is the same as + on the coil so it goes in the right direction? the cable between coil and distributor will in this case be + earth. so + on the coil to the distributor and - on the coil to the battery? or vice versa😋 sounds confused when I write about it but hope you understand what I mean🙂 thank you for taking the time to reply 👍🏻
plus wire to key switch neg to dist + inside dist this wire gos thru coil primary winding to condeser wire thru cond to gd only when points are open when points close condenser wire is grounded stoping current flow thru the coil hope this helps
Ive got a 71 tr6 put solid state in it,ran fine couple years then just died while running, went back to points, still cant get spark at plugs, got spark at points, got 12,6 volts at positive side of coil, 12.6 volts at negative side of coil when i turn key on, getting spark off high voltage coil wire when i unhook it from distributor and put it next to valve cover bolt and crank, but when i take out spark plug and leave it in spark plug wire and put it next to valve cover bolt and crank no spark, my wire from points to negative terminal of coil looks fine, guess i can try replacing it, new condenser, distributor cap, what am i missing? got new rotor and new coil too
Get a multiple meter. Continuity check wires right from where it enters the distributor all the way along. Each little wire and each connection inside the distributor. Should not beep (indicating continuity) when referenced to ground unless points are closed.
i believe you have def. condenser take it out read open no short if short get new one---- i will list proper path of voltage with sw on voltage on coil normal operation is points go open lifting gd off condenser allowing current flow thru coil into condenser to gd thru the little can this current flow causes magnetic effect in coil as step up voltage because of turns ratio (high voltage ) this voltage goes to rotor in dist to selected spark plug it jumps across plug at bottom of plug to gd this is the arc if you have pitting of the points its caused by def or wrong condenser the cond is rated in mfd ,s it has to match the coil what happen if mis match thr voltage in effect bounces of conderser flows open condeser jumps gap to gd pitting points overtime
you should not have spark at points the condenser is major part of spark let me lead you thru this turn on switch this conn voltage to primary winding in coilit leaves coil comes to he screw where points and condenser conect with proper value condenser this voltage flows to gd thru cond only when points go open lifting gd off condenser lead this causing a magnetic effect in the coil due to turns ratio increase in primary winding send a high voltage to dist the points stay closed most of the time they open 6 times for 6 cyclinder eng verfy your condenser wire if in dought change it out all the points do is lift gd off condnser
@@frankdavidson9675 Thanks, haven't messed with it for a month now, just ordered 2 condensers from moss, the others I was trying were autozone, maybe they were junk, been messing with my 87 225, purrs like a kitten, got the pick up coil instead of points, when I first got it, it wouldn't turn over at all, ran down a bad ground wire from starter relay to chassis, replaced it and turned over like magic, will let you know when i put in new condenser, thanks for help
condenser is bad should not have spark at points only way that to happen bad condencer voltage coming to the coil does nothing with points closed as they open voltage flow thru coil into condenser to gd th flow createsa large in crease in voltage in secondary winding which goes to dist to a plug wire to a plug when points close flow stops waiting for points to open again
Hi Keith, I have been following your videos for a while now, I have a 1993 Mazda 323, I accidentally shorted my condenser now I have no spark, I bought a new distributor with has an Inbuilt coil, but still nothing took the computer box for repair but still nothing. KINDLY HELP ME I LOVE MY OLD CAR…😭😭😭
Sorry I can’t speak about tour Mazda 323. You know the basics after watching my videos. Suggest you locate a schematic and a digital multimeter. Start tracing the circuit to find the problem.
I have a 1963 buick 198 v-6. Car sat 20yrs. Replaced everything electrical- power at both sides of ign. Coil- no spark at plug?? Power good between points contacts- how come no spark on plug?
I love old cars. You finally explained ignition with points where I understand it. Knowledge is power. Thank you 1,000 times. Doug Lambert, Canton Ma!!!!
I was just given a 61' dodge power wagon. Someone put a 55' plymouth 231 flathead 6 in it. Just redid the entire ignition system. Your videos helped me understand the multi meter and how to check each component and not just part swap. Thankyou for making the content you do.
Thanks Keith! You saved my dad and I a lot of headache and time, we watched both videos and they were a lot of help. We have a 1953 Mercury M350 with a flathead v8 that suddenly quit on us. Used info from this video to diagnose a bad rotor, turns out it broke apart after we stopped to visit some family, were able to super glue it back together to get the truck home. Fired up first try. New ignition system parts are on their way!
I have a 57 Chevy crane and I am having issues. This was a very helpful video. I am going to watch more of your videos. It’s like a class. Thanks
These 2 videos were exactly what I need to get my Karman Ghia started. Thanks Keith!
I’m glad to hear that the info helped you out.
I really appreciate your tutorials. I grew up with MSD’s and triggers, knew next to nothing about points. This will help me troubleshoot a neighbors 55 Tbird with 6V and no spark.
Best video series on the ignition system that I have seen yet. Hands down, nice job. Now I'll go apply this new understanding to my 64 Cadillac. Thank you!
Again excellent. Perfect for the restorer who has some basic knowledge but is not a complete beginner. Thank you.
Thanks, Keith. The two part tutorials were great information. Always looking forward to your videos.
Bought a multimeter… gonna get my 73 SAAB running by troubleshooting vs. normal default of replace everything and hope.. THANKYOU, great video
I cal it "Spray & Pray". Spray it with new parts and hope you fix it. Lol. Good luck. Best to troubleshoot and learn a thing or two.
Hubcap finally arrived mate! Thank you my old girl is whole again 👍🏼 great explanation on dwell and coil ohms, very helpful for owners
Awesome. Glad to hear.
Really useful stuff thanks a stack. As a new Mopar owner i’ve never been a petrol head about my cars. This has helped so much - keep up the good stuff 👌🏼
You must be doing something right Keith; I understood everything you said. I sat here nodding throughout the video. Now I'm no mechanic; I'm hardly even a beginner so, if I get it, you're teaching it properly.
I never had anyone teach me. I watched others and fiddled with my own cars, with the help of the relevant Haynes manual. I can do the absolute basics but, unlike today's beginners, I can only work with a carburetted engine. I've only owned one vehicle without a carb and I believe it had an OBD port too - no use to me, none at all. I struggled to check the fluids on that one; there were so many plastic covers under the bonnet, I could hardly find the engine, let alone the dipstick. If you keep the videos at this level, I might actually learn something.😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Lol. Good to hear the topic was helpful. That is was my goal. To help out the beginners. I spend a fair bit of time researching and reading about this vintage car technical stuff. So I too can grasp as much as my pea brain can hold.
@@keithsgarage5831 Something I thought of while watching: it's helpful having such a clean, tidy engine bay when demonstrating this stuff. So much easier to see what's going on when there's not half an inch of rust/oil/grime covering everything. Being as well-maintained as this car is, you've not got all the seized/broken/missing hardware to deal with either.😁
Parts 1&2 excellent tutorial, thank you
i took a photo of your diagram with my phone. Watching on my laptop. Thanks again!
Great!
It's very valuable information, thanks Keith
Good point keep it clean.
Hey Keith Great vid ..Subbed
Also that car is pretty cool reminds me of a 39 Plymouth with 37 style headlights(chrysler = more streamlined) as opposed to the square ones within the front fenders (39 plymouth hard to find)
I have a 37 plymouth and I like the looks of yours plus it is in excellent condition that dash !!!!!!
Will be going thru my system as I have no spark -I am 59 and your vid was very detailed and I should have an answers here soon -planning to check my main ground first but those other tests you showed me will get done as well !!!!! Thank you for this video !!!!
A video on setting dwell would be cool !
Both of these videos were very helpful. I'm working on troubleshooting a no spark condition in a 1980 Honda Express moped (49cc single piston engine) and these videos gave me some direction on where to look and how to trouble shoot as well as general knowledge on points style ignition systems. I'm still having trouble getting spark even after thoroughly testing continuity and voltage with my multimeter. Would it be possible to send you an email/message with the issue I am having? You seem to know a lot about this and you also explained it very well and clearly so any help would be appreciated!
Thank you
Thank you. Your video was very helpful. 73 Mg Midget Spark and running now.
Man! This is great information
Breaking the points. Classic! Better stay away from any Voltage.
It got better. Nano Seconds? 2 Stroke?? LOL
@@iainmclean7570 good point. 6 milliseconds? Lol.
Have you used the flat, braided, ground line (strap)??
Thank you
Well explained really appreciate
Should you have constant 6 volts at the coil plug wire that feeds the distributor?
Very nice video… thank you!
So helpful! Thank you
Thanks again brother!
Can't wait!
Hi K how about needing a muffler or not! Bought a1951 Styleline, limited budget. Besides sound and fumes? Running without . Regards Barry
great video Keith, could you make a video on trouble shooting the starting circuit ? So us novices can repair a no crank condition. I have rewired my "55 Savoy and now I don't have any starter cranking , I have power at the key though, just not when the key is turned to start. Probably have a wire in a wrong location on the solenoid?
Thanks Dave. I'll consider making the video you suggested. Regarding your current problem: You need a shop manual with a wiring diagram and a digital multi-meter. Then you can track the circuit and find out exactly why it is not working.
@@keithsgarage5831 I will pick one up and get things right, thanks for you're response and continue with these excellent video's, your a great inspiration! and teacher😎
@@da1082 ill try to help ---when you turn on the key to start you connect 12 v to small lug on solenoid ( if fuse is good ) that connect two big bolts in side solenoid which conn 12 straight to starter if every thing is ok but if you only get a click by turning the key this tell you batt is good fuse is good but inside solenoid did not conn so no start now to prove shrt two big bolts on solenoid (pliers or screw driver ) starter should spin this tells you you need a solenoid
@@frankdavidson9675 thanks Frank, my '55 is a 6 volt system. I found out that my wiring was fine , and all the components in the starting circuit, but, the neutral start switch on the transmission needed to be grounded then everything works great 😃
I have a 1963 buick 198 v-6. Car sat 20yrs. Replaced everything electrical- power at both sides of ign. Coil- no spark at plug?? Power good between points contacts- how come no spark on plug?
THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍UP THANKS 4 UR HELP
Hi Keith .........Working on a 49 Chrysler Windsor Coupe (6 cyl) with no spark. Had spark last fall and it went away somewhere. Have followed your procedures in the video with no luck ...You mentioned a ground wire in the distributor that flexes with movement in the distributor...Mine looks questionable and may be grounding...Where might I find a replacement?
Try Andy Bernbaum auto parts.....spelling ?
Keith, thanks so much for all of this info. I have good spark coming out of my ignition coil (I put a spark tester on the wire coming from the coil and it jumps the standard ignition gap). But I still have no spark at my spark plugs. What could this be? If the timing is off, could the rotor be attempting to jump while its in-between the contacts inside the cap? Thank you.
Check inside rotor cap closely. Little carbon button inside centre of cap missing? Rotor damaged? Carbon tracks inside of cap? Wires in proper sequence? Plug Wires in good shape?
@keithsgarage5831 I'm having the same issue. I've replaced the condensor on the distributor, new coil, can get it to spark between coil and block but not distributor/spark plug to block. Wires are good, new rotor, points clean and correct gap. Wires have continuity, I've got power hooked up directly to starter and constant 12v power supplied to my coil. Engine grounds clean. I've removed my distributor and am turning it over by hand looking for spark. What else would you recommend to check for?
@@Aesthention I know it has been 10 months ago -check ground to body making sure your spark plugs establish good ground -if you have a multi meter set to conectivity and hook one end to positive cable and touch base of plugs !!! and the head as well may have to scratch /clean area up !!
Im working on a 1957 boat that has a autolite IAY 4009 distributor that lost spark, I tried changing to an ignitor but that didnt work either, have 12 volts at the coil, that is also new. So the bolt that comes out of the side of the distributor that goes to the negative side of the coil the insulation broke apart when I changed to the ignitor. Do you know where I can get that? Thanks
I have a 36 Packard 120B with a dual pint distributor, postive ground system. I recently did a tune up with new points, wires, plugs, etc. I am having the darnest time ssetting the dual points to get the car to run smooth again. I have owned my Packard for several years and have rebuilt the carb, installed an electric fuel pump, installed a new fuel sending unit and am familiar with the car. Do you have any videos on setting a dual point distributor correctly? Thank you in advance.
do you have a timing light see where its firing to adj loosen dist bolt so you can slowly move firing point on crankshaft pully or balenser
The current doesn't jump, it is induced into the adjacent wires by magnetic induction unless the insulation is worn through. Move them apart to fix that. Your little tutorial was perfect otherwise. I'm a EE but also learn something in your videos and I love your 38 Chrysler.
Thanks for this video. I'm trying to trouble shoot a 1936 ford flathead v8 that it does not want to turn on. There is a wire from the switch to the ignition coil in the front that it has voltage when is not connected to coil, as soon we connect it to the coil we get no voltage. Anyone knows what is causing this or if it is normal?
Hello
I have a thought, if you mount an external coil on a car with 6 volt posetive ground, (-39 ford coupe)
should the battery cable (negative) go to + bat or - negative on the coil ?? confused 🙃
like your videos 👍🏻
greetings from Sweden
6V positive ground means the positive post from the battery is connected to the metal frame of the car and engine block. The common, communal return path of electrons back to the battery. The negative battery post is connected to the starter, ammeter, gauges, switches, lights etc. Easy to say that electrons leave the battery from the negative post. Travel to the load to do work,then carry on back to the battery via the common ground, to the positive post of the battery.
@@keithsgarage5831 thanks for the reply, so far I understand. thinking specifically of the coil, the negative (-) from the battery that goes directly to the coil, do you connect it to the designation + or - on the coil? think if the current must go in a certain direction or in this case that - is the same as + on the coil so it goes in the right direction?
the cable between coil and distributor will in this case be + earth. so + on the coil to the distributor and - on the coil to the battery? or vice versa😋
sounds confused when I write about it but hope you understand what I mean🙂
thank you for taking the time to reply 👍🏻
plus wire to key switch neg to dist + inside dist this wire gos thru coil primary winding to condeser wire thru cond to gd only when points are open when points close condenser wire is grounded stoping current flow thru the coil hope this helps
it will not take long to find out if you conn it wrong (lol)
I tried the test with the coil to ground and my multimeter shows continuity even with points open
Ive got a 71 tr6 put solid state in it,ran fine couple years then just died while running, went back to points, still cant get spark at plugs, got spark at points, got 12,6 volts at positive side of coil, 12.6 volts at negative side of coil when i turn key on, getting spark off high voltage coil wire when i unhook it from distributor and put it next to valve cover bolt and crank, but when i take out spark plug and leave it in spark plug wire and put it next to valve cover bolt and crank no spark, my wire from points to negative terminal of coil looks fine, guess i can try replacing it, new condenser, distributor cap, what am i missing? got new rotor and new coil too
Get a multiple meter. Continuity check wires right from where it enters the distributor all the way along. Each little wire and each connection inside the distributor. Should not beep (indicating continuity) when referenced to ground unless points are closed.
i believe you have def. condenser take it out read open no short if short get new one---- i will list proper path of voltage with sw on voltage on coil normal operation is points go open lifting gd off condenser allowing current flow thru coil into condenser to gd thru the little can this current flow causes magnetic effect in coil as step up voltage because of turns ratio (high voltage ) this voltage goes to rotor in dist to selected spark plug it jumps across plug at bottom of plug to gd this is the arc if you have pitting of the points its caused by def or wrong condenser the cond is rated in mfd ,s it has to match the coil what happen if mis match thr voltage in effect bounces of conderser flows open condeser jumps gap to gd pitting points overtime
you should not have spark at points the condenser is major part of spark let me lead you thru this turn on switch this conn voltage to primary winding in coilit leaves coil comes to he screw where points and condenser conect with proper value condenser this voltage flows to gd thru cond only when points go open lifting gd off condenser lead this causing a magnetic effect in the coil due to turns ratio increase in primary winding send a high voltage to dist the points stay closed most of the time they open 6 times for 6 cyclinder eng verfy your condenser wire if in dought change it out all the points do is lift gd off condnser
@@frankdavidson9675 Thanks, haven't messed with it for a month now, just ordered 2 condensers from moss, the others I was trying were autozone, maybe they were junk, been messing with my 87 225, purrs like a kitten, got the pick up coil instead of points, when I first got it, it wouldn't turn over at all, ran down a bad ground wire from starter relay to chassis, replaced it and turned over like magic, will let you know when i put in new condenser, thanks for help
condenser is bad should not have spark at points only way that to happen bad condencer voltage coming to the coil does nothing with points closed as they open voltage flow thru coil into condenser to gd th flow createsa large in crease in voltage in secondary winding which goes to dist to a plug wire to a plug when points close flow stops waiting for points to open again
Hi Keith, I have been following your videos for a while now, I have a 1993 Mazda 323, I accidentally shorted my condenser now I have no spark, I bought a new distributor with has an Inbuilt coil, but still nothing took the computer box for repair but still nothing. KINDLY HELP ME I LOVE MY OLD CAR…😭😭😭
Points dont have built in coil.
Sorry I can’t speak about tour Mazda 323. You know the basics after watching my videos. Suggest you locate a schematic and a digital multimeter. Start tracing the circuit to find the problem.
👍🏾
Negative ground. Battery to frame, frame to body, frame to block....
🙋♂🙋♂🙋♂🙋♂🙋♂🙋♂🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
You have a radio voice…kind of sound like dirtiest jobs guy.
I have a 1963 buick 198 v-6. Car sat 20yrs. Replaced everything electrical- power at both sides of ign. Coil- no spark at plug?? Power good between points contacts- how come no spark on plug?