I am rebuilding my first flathead with my 1951 Dodge M37 Power Wagon. Thank you for explaining everything with such detailed explanations!! It’s EXTREMELY helpful!
Just got my first classic with a flathead motor and I knew NOTHING about them, so thankful for people like this who take the time to educate us newbies, thank you!
I'm slowly learning more about Mopar's flathead sixes. Very good information about the water distribution tube. 👍 Good to know. That's also good information about modern detergent oil and older non-detergent oil as well. I already knew about that, but it's good information for people who may not know, or who may not take that into consideration. Great video. Thanks for the upload!
By the way, I learned to "drive" when I was 8 in a MoPar flathead 6 (my mom's 1950 Plymouth). Actually, all I learned was how to work the gearshift. She'd let me shift while she worked the rest of the controls.
I know this is an old video but thank you for all the information. I have a 1946 Dodge Deluxe Sedan and this was awesome to watch. You answered quite a few questions I had and I hope at some point I can start to restore it.
Great video Keith! I did learn a lot. A few weeks ago I bought a 1963 military Dodge M37B1 pickup truck. While the serial number is very different, the engine looks essentially identical to yours. The first few characters of my engine number are T245A, followed by the sequence build number. I understand that the “T” stands for truck. Mine was converted from 24V to 12V by the previous owner and the original carburetor/original air filter canister was replaced with a Rochester carb; but luckily he saved all original parts and I have them. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload this video. Subscribed!
Another factor in sludge build up back in the day was the leaded gasoline. Any fuel making its way into the crankcase brought lead in with it. Even nowadays you still sometimes run across old engines with quite the lead build up inside of them!
WITH A LITTLE TLC they will last many life times mine 1953 i feel i have aded 50ys too it with rebuiling every thing it was reg.in GA. 2007 i found it in 2011in a junk yard all it took i get running was a points. first time i saw it running its value doubled lol
Once again, I learned a couple of things. I didn't know about the water distribution tube, and I have torn down my share of engines, though all of them from the fifties and sixties. I worked in an automotive machine shop in the late 60's tearing down and hot tanking engines, etc--all ohv I-head. Also, my knowledge about when to use ND oil is really out of date. I knew about not putting detergent in an old engine unless you cleaned the sludge out. But the word back in the day was you should *never* run detergent oil in a splash-lubricated engine as it would foam from the big-end scoops hitting it. Well, I looked it up, and as one might have suspected, you should never use ND oil except under the circumstances you described.
Splash-oiling is NOT conducive to "long--life" for your poured-bearings while you're trying to keep-up with much-newer 8-cylinder-Vees in similar cars, owned by fellow clubbers
One correction if I may. Those plugs are not called expansion plugs nor are they technically “freeze plugs”. Those are casting plugs to remove sand when the block was poured from the factory. They were never designed as a freeze plug but because of the nature of the design and how they are put in, they are weaker than the casting so ice will push them out... sometimes. BUT if you put your faith in those plugs to save your block then you won’t have a good block for long.
i rebuilt my flat head six i toke all those out and replaced them they are easy to take out and replace you will believe all the crude down inside by those lower plugs only way to ger it out is up side down and water pressure coffe cup full of rust
@@frankdavidson9675 Oh I can believe it. I did the same on a '57 301 poly, and man was it full of junk! It was actually fascinating to see just how much crud was in the water jackets, not to mention the caked sludge that was under the intake manifold.
Burned up the 201 in my 39 coupe, I HAD to get to the doctor! Freeze plug between blok & bellhousehing blew water out. Got a 230, need to see if its good. Hav a lot of mopars.
Looks like nothing wrong with the old engine. My guess is they wanted more horsepower. That 37 201 is not going to get you to 70 Mph. You did a very nice job with this video. I'm an engineer and everything is accurate and clear.
Hobart welding machines used the Chryslers six and 8 cylinder flat head engines in the 40s,and 50s most of which were military machines, my father had a Lincoln welding machine he ran with a L head 8
Your large Dodge trucks in the late 1940's up to the mid 1950's used flathead engines in 377 and 413 cubic inches. They came with single carbs and single exhaust and dual carbs and dual exhaust. My good friend of 55 years and who has been running a wrecking yard for 71 years has several of each size. On the side of the engines in large block letters are the words ( CHROME MOLYBDENUM STEEL ) The 377 engines came out of late 1940 garbage trucks and the 413 engines were used in the mid 1950's for very large tow trucks that were used for towing city buses. He uses these engines in his 1947 Dodge garbage truck that has been converted to a flat bed and currently has a 413 cubic inch flathead six with a 5 speed tranny, a 3 speed Brownie box and a 2 speed rear end. He uses it every week to haul scrap car bodies and has been since 1969 when he got the truck and several other Dodge garbage trucks from the local garbage company where he worked part time. He also has two 1940 Dodge trucks he has driven daily since the late 1950's and are still street legal and are powed by smaller Dodge flatheads and are still 6 volts. His crane is powered by a Chrysler straight 8 flathead. He also has two 1940 Dodge fire trucks and many other 1939 to 1947 Dodge trucks and a few Plymouth trucks. No Fargo's yet.
Love these old engines and I love the cars they put them in, just gotta make sure it's been upgraded with modern breaks/power steering and maybe a few other creature comforts before I go ripping around in it, and by that I mean going all of 50 mph, but that's good enough for me!!
If the car maintains stock horsepower, the stock brakes in these old cars, if properly maintained, are adequate and do quite fine. The cars were never built to achieve 50 mph. If you modify the cars to travel faster, yes I agree brakes should be improved.
My cousin got a old Plymouth that has one of these in it and I’m trying to convince him that this is better then a magnum swap. (I sent him a link to this video) But also did you say freeze plugs? With all due respect they’re core plugs. Empty spaces inside of the engine block casting use to be filled with casting sand. The core holes is how it gets removed and they’re plugged by what we sometimes call freeze plugs. You know why we sometimes refer to engines as motors even tho they aren’t. Ladies and gentlemen freeze-plugs. Sorry for the rant
New to your channel. Need to redo my brakes on my '37 Dodge (see profile pic) and was looking for a how to. Thx. Unfortunately my engine is not original. Previous owner put in small block LA 360 so I'll need to do more research on what to do but you've shown me to just go slow.
Glad to hear you are able to use the info I have shared. Your Dodge brakes will likely be exactly the same the my '38 Plymouth brakes. Suggest a puller as seen in my video for rear drums. Also the concentric tool is key to good braking brake performance.
Hi. What oil do you use? My engine is rebuilt and clean so I don’t have to worry about sludge. I have a bottle of zinc additive in the oil and Mobil 1 10W30 oil. Is that good? And is the zinc necessary? Thanks
I mainly drive my flat head Mopar in summer weather. So I like a 20W40 oil. Zinc is optional. Won't hurt to add it. My understanding is we don't have high spring tension on the valves, stressing the tappets. So high zinc in these old Moaprs is not vital. Nothing wrong with your Mobil 1 10W30 choice.
@@keithsgarage5831 Please consider...IF your engine has the _optional_ bypass filtering system, it doesn't filter 100% of the oil all of the the time. If using a detergent oil, you have a good possibility of allowing grit and other combustion by-products to circulate with the oil through the bearings and onto the cylinder walls, etc. My advice is to locate a non-detergent oil and use it per the engine design. Quality non-detergent oil is not so easy to come by these days, but it can be sourced..I use it in both of my 1954 Plymouths. (I rebuilt both of my engines.)
@@dennisdaly907 or change it over to do full filtering. Not uncommon with these. Note that even modern cars will bypass with too much oil pressure e.g. on a cold day before the oil has warmed up. Old engines used to do a maint. step where they would be filled with kerosene when hot, run, and then drained to clean a bunch of this cruft out. Used to do it on my old tractor from the 50's.
Those"capillary" heat gauge line type CAN be put back together! If memory serves, Second Chance garage among a few other places. (Spectacular info on vacuum gauges & how diagnosis engines) Maybe you can get headlights back to orginal. (Some folks dont) personally I don't like "flat" look, much prefer round bulbous look of original hemispherical glass. But silvered reflectors, & bulbs 💡 limited light. I liked the times when windshields cranked out 37 & prior to get lil breeze thru as you drive. (Hav 2 37's)
When I acquired the car it did come with the original, non-sealed beam headlight parts. However, the 6V sealed beams are a little brighter. I live in a rural area, the extra lumens from the sealed beams are preferred.
It is common or at least was to repair them for 60's british cars. They used the same style heat gauge and oil gauges sent actual oil pressure to the dash as well.
If water distribution tube is good and clean and engine still overheats, what would you suggest looking at? New thermostat, new water pump, radiator chemical flush done…
There are several important parts of the cooling system that all need to be working properly. Have you pulled the rad checked for flow and cleanliness? Send it to a rad shop for thorough cleaning? There could also be a lot of scale and rust in your block, impeding flow. See here:th-cam.com/video/TXRYzwTnW50/w-d-xo.html
@@keithsgarage5831 at this point i was going to pop those freeze plugs and I do get the feeling there is build up in the block. I think it can only be good for the engine if I clean it out, popping all of the freeze plugs making sure there is no build up and then sending Rad to get cleaned. Thank you for the feedback!
Another thing you might want to check if you can't make it keep it's cool is the head gasket. Many after market head gaskets are missing some of the water holes. If you have to use such gaskets, you should modify them so that all the holes are present.
Maybe you can help,- I have a Dodge PW with a 230 L head rated at 3200 RPM. What is the safe maximum continuous RPM? MEaning,- On the road holding a constant RPM. Hope you can help.
I just had my old 226 ci engine out on the hiway today. I don't have a tach. I was comfortable cruising at 50 mph. In top gear, 3rd. 3rd is 1:1 tranny in & out ratio. My rear end is 4:11 gears. 15" bias tires. All these variables can effect your comfortable cruising speed. I cannot tell you exactly what RPM is safe for continuous travel speed. Good idea to add zinc to your engine oil to protect the tappets.
Power wagon and trucks had a lower rpm max than the cars. Cars I think were rated at 3600 rpm. The engines were no different so I'd say 3600 is quite safe. I just rebuilt a 230 for my 1956 truck and have a complete service manual. It has a 4.89 rear and will do max 55 on the road. It's a ton and a half truck so it's not made for speed. Also it took me a good 6 hours to get my water distribution tube out of my block. It came out in one piece but was very rusted.
Previous owner told me the engine was pulled in the late 60's. Water freeze damage to block he told me. It was the original 201 engine in my '38 car. I took some measurements and considered rebuilding it. It was all stock measurements. However extremely rusted and pitted journal surfaces. After 50 years laying to waste, that'll happen. I considered my options then decided to scrap and recycle the old engine. Current engine in my car is a 1954 228 ci. I have a line now on a 1949 251ci that I will likely install.
Yes. The 265 is a 25" long block. My Plymouth has a 25" long block now. 3 ⅜ bore x 1 ¼ stroke. Netting 228 ci. A 265 would drop right in. The rad was moved forward a couple of inches to allow a 25" long block to fit.
My dad, with our '50 DeSoto, always used "Phillips TropArctic HD" and a can of "STP" for EVERY oil change! The DeSoto ran, WITH THE SAME CRANK, BEARINGS, RINGS (one "valve job") for 200,000+ miles! THIS IS ONE "IRON TOUGH" MOTOR!
@@johnmaki3046 I rebuilt my flathead engine myself. It wasn't hard. Only thing I sent out was the machining. You can watch the engine rebuild process featured in many videos on my channel here.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
I am rebuilding my first flathead with my 1951 Dodge M37 Power Wagon. Thank you for explaining everything with such detailed explanations!! It’s EXTREMELY helpful!
Glad to help
Just got my first classic with a flathead motor and I knew NOTHING about them, so thankful for people like this who take the time to educate us newbies, thank you!
Whatever MoPar you own; THIS IS AN AWESOME MOTOR! LOVED THEM!
I'm slowly learning more about Mopar's flathead sixes. Very good information about the water distribution tube. 👍 Good to know. That's also good information about modern detergent oil and older non-detergent oil as well. I already knew about that, but it's good information for people who may not know, or who may not take that into consideration. Great video. Thanks for the upload!
By the way, I learned to "drive" when I was 8 in a MoPar flathead 6 (my mom's 1950 Plymouth). Actually, all I learned was how to work the gearshift. She'd let me shift while she worked the rest of the controls.
EXCELLENT video - very clear explanation of engine parts. Great voice, very professional delivery. THANKS for posting this!
Much appreciated. Thx.
I just purchased a 37 Plymouth coupe. This was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!
I also have a 37 Coupe. Absolutely love that car.
I am pleased to hear that. I do enjoy helping educate others from what I have learned.
I just got a 37 coupe that's all original. Amazingly the 201 runs very well . very informative video
Glad it helped
I know this is an old video but thank you for all the information. I have a 1946 Dodge Deluxe Sedan and this was awesome to watch. You answered quite a few questions I had and I hope at some point I can start to restore it.
Great video Keith! I did learn a lot. A few weeks ago I bought a 1963 military Dodge M37B1 pickup truck. While the serial number is very different, the engine looks essentially identical to yours. The first few characters of my engine number are T245A, followed by the sequence build number. I understand that the “T” stands for truck. Mine was converted from 24V to 12V by the previous owner and the original carburetor/original air filter canister was replaced with a Rochester carb; but luckily he saved all original parts and I have them. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload this video. Subscribed!
Glad to hear. Check out the website vintagepowerwagons.com great site for parts for your truck.
Another factor in sludge build up back in the day was the leaded gasoline. Any fuel making its way into the crankcase brought lead in with it.
Even nowadays you still sometimes run across old engines with quite the lead build up inside of them!
Great point!
Great intro to the Flathead !!! Thanks
WITH A LITTLE TLC they will last many life times mine 1953 i feel i have aded 50ys too it with rebuiling every thing it was reg.in GA. 2007 i found it in 2011in a junk yard all it took i get running was a points. first time i saw it running its value doubled lol
Once again, I learned a couple of things. I didn't know about the water distribution tube, and I have torn down my share of engines, though all of them from the fifties and sixties. I worked in an automotive machine shop in the late 60's tearing down and hot tanking engines, etc--all ohv I-head. Also, my knowledge about when to use ND oil is really out of date. I knew about not putting detergent in an old engine unless you cleaned the sludge out. But the word back in the day was you should *never* run detergent oil in a splash-lubricated engine as it would foam from the big-end scoops hitting it. Well, I looked it up, and as one might have suspected, you should never use ND oil except under the circumstances you described.
Splash-oiling is NOT conducive to "long--life" for your poured-bearings while you're trying to keep-up with much-newer 8-cylinder-Vees in similar cars, owned by fellow clubbers
@@jackdale9831 Chrysler NEVER used splash oiling. Ever.
The Slant 6 also uses a water distribution tube. The 50s version of the Pontiac V8 used them also.
This is super informative thank you ever so much
VERY, WELL EXPLAINED, GOOD FOR PEOPLE WITH, NO, TYPE OF CAR, MECHANICAL,,, KNOW HOW,,,
One correction if I may. Those plugs are not called expansion plugs nor are they technically “freeze plugs”. Those are casting plugs to remove sand when the block was poured from the factory. They were never designed as a freeze plug but because of the nature of the design and how they are put in, they are weaker than the casting so ice will push them out... sometimes. BUT if you put your faith in those plugs to save your block then you won’t have a good block for long.
Great video and enjoyed watching. 👍
i rebuilt my flat head six i toke all those out and replaced them they are easy to take out and replace you will believe all the crude down inside by those lower plugs only way to ger it out is up side down and water pressure coffe cup full of rust
That's right, SOMETIMES. Usually only if it is in the upper limits of freezing so that it freezes slowly.
@@frankdavidson9675 Oh I can believe it. I did the same on a '57 301 poly, and man was it full of junk! It was actually fascinating to see just how much crud was in the water jackets, not to mention the caked sludge that was under the intake manifold.
Great video, very informative. Thanks!
Glad you liked it. Seems it was worth my time to upload it and share it.
Great video, thank you for sharing!
Burned up the 201 in my 39 coupe, I HAD to get to the doctor! Freeze plug between blok & bellhousehing blew water out. Got a 230, need to see if its good. Hav a lot of mopars.
It's all combustion chamber, quench area is above piston.
We've come a long way. Beautiful car
Looks like nothing wrong with the old engine. My guess is they wanted more horsepower. That 37 201 is not going to get you to 70 Mph. You did a very nice job with this video. I'm an engineer and everything is accurate and clear.
Thanks for the info. Im new to the L head, i have one in my dodge WC 52, and this info will help me with the new engine I have to get
I grew up with MoPars of this era! While the "slant 6" was WONDERFUL; I MUCH PREFER THIS SIMPLE AND GREAT MOTOR!
Hobart welding machines used the Chryslers six and 8 cylinder flat head engines in the 40s,and 50s most of which were military machines, my father had a Lincoln welding machine he ran with a L head 8
These motors were SIMPLE (AND AWESOME)!
Your large Dodge trucks in the late 1940's up to the mid 1950's used flathead engines in 377 and 413 cubic inches. They came with single carbs and single exhaust and dual carbs and dual exhaust. My good friend of 55 years and who has been running a wrecking yard for 71 years has several of each size. On the side of the engines in large block letters are the words ( CHROME MOLYBDENUM STEEL ) The 377 engines came out of late 1940 garbage trucks and the 413 engines were used in the mid 1950's for very large tow trucks that were used for towing city buses. He uses these engines in his 1947 Dodge garbage truck that has been converted to a flat bed and currently has a 413 cubic inch flathead six with a 5 speed tranny, a 3 speed Brownie box and a 2 speed rear end. He uses it every week to haul scrap car bodies and has been since 1969 when he got the truck and several other Dodge garbage trucks from the local garbage company where he worked part time. He also has two 1940 Dodge trucks he has driven daily since the late 1950's and are still street legal and are powed by smaller Dodge flatheads and are still 6 volts. His crane is powered by a Chrysler straight 8 flathead. He also has two 1940 Dodge fire trucks and many other 1939 to 1947 Dodge trucks and a few Plymouth trucks. No Fargo's yet.
Supposing if MOPAR ever made a flathead V8, I would like to see a video about it.
Love these old engines and I love the cars they put them in, just gotta make sure it's been upgraded with modern breaks/power steering and maybe a few other creature comforts before I go ripping around in it, and by that I mean going all of 50 mph, but that's good enough for me!!
If the car maintains stock horsepower, the stock brakes in these old cars, if properly maintained, are adequate and do quite fine. The cars were never built to achieve 50 mph. If you modify the cars to travel faster, yes I agree brakes should be improved.
Women drove them without power steering, so you should be able to with no problem. Power brakes suck. They are too hard to modulate.
I learned some interesting things today. Thank you!
Glad to hear it!
the welch plugs are there to allow for the removal of casting sand after the block is cast. Nothing more.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug
My cousin got a old Plymouth that has one of these in it and I’m trying to convince him that this is better then a magnum swap. (I sent him a link to this video) But also did you say freeze plugs? With all due respect they’re core plugs. Empty spaces inside of the engine block casting use to be filled with casting sand. The core holes is how it gets removed and they’re plugged by what we sometimes call freeze plugs. You know why we sometimes refer to engines as motors even tho they aren’t. Ladies and gentlemen freeze-plugs.
Sorry for the rant
Hi, I have a d100 1960 truck and it has these numbers 59 . 8. 27 what is the year of manufacture? thanks and good video.greetings from mexico
Not 100% sure as I am not familiar with 1960 era Mopar products. I'd guess Aug 27 1959 for a production date.
I learned a lot! Thank you! Subbed!
How can you adjust the valve clearances hot/running? The manifold assembly totally covers the side where the adjustments have to be performed.
Hi Ken see my videos on valve adjustments. I have a made a few.
New to your channel. Need to redo my brakes on my '37 Dodge (see profile pic) and was looking for a how to. Thx. Unfortunately my engine is not original. Previous owner put in small block LA 360 so I'll need to do more research on what to do but you've shown me to just go slow.
Glad to hear you are able to use the info I have shared. Your Dodge brakes will likely be exactly the same the my '38 Plymouth brakes. Suggest a puller as seen in my video for rear drums. Also the concentric tool is key to good braking brake performance.
Super helpful!!!!
Great info, thanks!!
Not looking forward to removing the water distribution tube. That seems like a can of Kroil, a slide hammer and a lot of cussing.
What are the chances of getting a new one nowadays?
use vice grips pull on it tap with hammer on vise grips rust is all that holds it clean it up you may re use it a new one is $60.00
@@2H80vids They make reproductions thankfully.
Excellent
Hola con el desahogo tupido puede gastar aceite ese tipo de motor por los anillos. Gracias
Hi. What oil do you use? My engine is rebuilt and clean so I don’t have to worry about sludge. I have a bottle of zinc additive in the oil and Mobil 1 10W30 oil. Is that good? And is the zinc necessary? Thanks
I mainly drive my flat head Mopar in summer weather. So I like a 20W40 oil. Zinc is optional. Won't hurt to add it. My understanding is we don't have high spring tension on the valves, stressing the tappets. So high zinc in these old Moaprs is not vital. Nothing wrong with your Mobil 1 10W30 choice.
Keith Barron ok thank you
@@keithsgarage5831 Please consider...IF your engine has the _optional_ bypass filtering system, it doesn't filter 100% of the oil all of the the time. If using a detergent oil, you have a good possibility of allowing grit and other combustion by-products to circulate with the oil through the bearings and onto the cylinder walls, etc.
My advice is to locate a non-detergent oil and use it per the engine design. Quality non-detergent oil is not so easy to come by these days, but it can be sourced..I use it in both of my 1954 Plymouths. (I rebuilt both of my engines.)
@@dennisdaly907 or change it over to do full filtering. Not uncommon with these. Note that even modern cars will bypass with too much oil pressure e.g. on a cold day before the oil has warmed up. Old engines used to do a maint. step where they would be filled with kerosene when hot, run, and then drained to clean a bunch of this cruft out. Used to do it on my old tractor from the 50's.
@@dennisdaly907 Well said.
Those"capillary" heat gauge line type CAN be put back together! If memory serves, Second Chance garage among a few other places.
(Spectacular info on vacuum gauges & how diagnosis engines)
Maybe you can get headlights back to orginal. (Some folks dont) personally I don't like "flat" look, much prefer round bulbous look of original hemispherical glass. But silvered reflectors, & bulbs 💡 limited light. I liked the times when windshields cranked out 37 & prior to get lil breeze thru as you drive. (Hav 2 37's)
When I acquired the car it did come with the original, non-sealed beam headlight parts. However, the 6V sealed beams are a little brighter. I live in a rural area, the extra lumens from the sealed beams are preferred.
It is common or at least was to repair them for 60's british cars. They used the same style heat gauge and oil gauges sent actual oil pressure to the dash as well.
Good stuff..your voice sounds like mike rowe from dirty jobs.lol
Heh, I thought the same!
i have an extra set of--- standard rings i think there is 2 diff head gaskits for these flat heads one has an extra hole
If water distribution tube is good and clean and engine still overheats, what would you suggest looking at? New thermostat, new water pump, radiator chemical flush done…
There are several important parts of the cooling system that all need to be working properly. Have you pulled the rad checked for flow and cleanliness? Send it to a rad shop for thorough cleaning? There could also be a lot of scale and rust in your block, impeding flow. See here:th-cam.com/video/TXRYzwTnW50/w-d-xo.html
@@keithsgarage5831 at this point i was going to pop those freeze plugs and I do get the feeling there is build up in the block. I think it can only be good for the engine if I clean it out, popping all of the freeze plugs making sure there is no build up and then sending Rad to get cleaned. Thank you for the feedback!
Another thing you might want to check if you can't make it keep it's cool is the head gasket. Many after market head gaskets are missing some of the water holes. If you have to use such gaskets, you should modify them so that all the holes are present.
that water tube is only for valve stems they get very hot from exhaust
@@carlosgranados2274 i poped the feeeze plugs then used a pressure washer you want believe how much more rust came out
Maybe you can help,- I have a Dodge PW with a 230 L head rated at 3200 RPM. What is the safe maximum continuous RPM? MEaning,- On the road holding a constant RPM.
Hope you can help.
I just had my old 226 ci engine out on the hiway today. I don't have a tach. I was comfortable cruising at 50 mph. In top gear, 3rd. 3rd is 1:1 tranny in & out ratio. My rear end is 4:11 gears. 15" bias tires. All these variables can effect your comfortable cruising speed. I cannot tell you exactly what RPM is safe for continuous travel speed. Good idea to add zinc to your engine oil to protect the tappets.
Power wagon and trucks had a lower rpm max than the cars. Cars I think were rated at 3600 rpm. The engines were no different so I'd say 3600 is quite safe. I just rebuilt a 230 for my 1956 truck and have a complete service manual. It has a 4.89 rear and will do max 55 on the road. It's a ton and a half truck so it's not made for speed. Also it took me a good 6 hours to get my water distribution tube out of my block. It came out in one piece but was very rusted.
1800.rpm @ 65mph (over drive)
This engine was pulled for some reason. Do you know what the issue was?
Previous owner told me the engine was pulled in the late 60's. Water freeze damage to block he told me. It was the original 201 engine in my '38 car. I took some measurements and considered rebuilding it. It was all stock measurements. However extremely rusted and pitted journal surfaces. After 50 years laying to waste, that'll happen. I considered my options then decided to scrap and recycle the old engine. Current engine in my car is a 1954 228 ci. I have a line now on a 1949 251ci that I will likely install.
@@keithsgarage5831 That means you have a 25 inch engine, as the 228 was the "big block" 6. The 230 is a small block 6.
.The S/N After the P6 there is a star, why is that there is it a code for something?
Will a 265 fit in your Plymouth ?
Yes. The 265 is a 25" long block. My Plymouth has a 25" long block now. 3 ⅜ bore x 1 ¼ stroke. Netting 228 ci. A 265 would drop right in. The rad was moved forward a couple of inches to allow a 25" long block to fit.
Thank you.
You're welcome! Hope it helped. Suggest you watch part 2 if interested in more knowledge.
Do you or any of your viewers have a recommendation for a non-detergent oil?
My dad, with our '50 DeSoto, always used "Phillips TropArctic HD" and a can of "STP" for EVERY oil change! The DeSoto ran, WITH THE SAME CRANK, BEARINGS, RINGS (one "valve job") for 200,000+ miles! THIS IS ONE "IRON TOUGH" MOTOR!
How do you get a new Flathead.
Someone should REMANUFACTURE these CLASSIC MOTORS!
@@johnmaki3046 I rebuilt my flathead engine myself. It wasn't hard. Only thing I sent out was the machining. You can watch the engine rebuild process featured in many videos on my channel here.
@@johnmaki3046check out h&h flatheads
Thanks. Important. Info. Brother. Has 1959 Dodge Suburban two door wagon. It looks like. My brothers. His. Head is off. In the. Car
Damn.. I want to build a ratrod with a flathead. I think I'd rather go with this one.
if you need to go to rad shop to clean out the rad take out a loan first,LOL?????
Thanks for the info on the cylinder combustion design by Ricardo, awsome which index or page is it on? (Dykes)? 37 Dodge 218.7, - California 91107