Never go to a dealer. They only make money through service calls. Find yourself a local mechanic and they'll normally do it for at most 200-250 per axel if they're putting in good quality. So to charge 900 for 2 is wild, it should be close to 960 for them all
@@jakecoyne3919I actually did pay this price (well more actually $1000 for just the front ones), but I was worried sometimes at these private shops they rush and get things wrong. I did an oil change in a local shop and they used the wrong oil lmao. So yeah it's a gamble.
Cars that have an electric e-brake just need to be put in service mode for that. It’s different for all cars, but someone on TH-cam did a video on how to do that. Basically put car in auxiliary mode, depress brake, push brake button, push start button 3 times while still pressing brake button. You should see brake light go off. And when you want to turn service mode off, you basically do the same thing but pull brake button up instead of down.
If the brakes are pulsating, getting the rotors cut on the car can solve the issue, make sure to cut them on the car as theyll be cut how they spin on the car and not on some random machine.
Doing my front & back in a couple weeks, this video helped a lot! Do you have a video for the back because of the parking sensor or electric parking? whatever’s goin on back there lol
You can reuse the old ones if they’re in good condition. Highly recommend to clean all the brake dust off of the old ones to minimize possibility of brake noise
It’s the same process, but you also have to put the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode. The rear rotors are smaller than the front. Check online for the specified torque values on the two sets of bolts - they differ between the two sets, as well as from front to rear
Hey, when pushing the caliper piston back in, did you need to crack the brake fluid reservoir cap to release pressure at all? ive seen that it is recommended for other cars, this will be my first Mazda job. Thanks!!
I turned my maintenance mode on to replace my rear pads and rotors but accidentally turned it back on while disassembled. The caliper spit out the piston on the driver side. I also had compressed the piston using a regular tool instead of the suggested one, so you know if I’ll need to buy a whole caliper or if buying a piston + caliper repair kit will do? Trying to save on costs as much as possible. Rockauto currently does not have a caliper for 2021 mazda 3
If the piston isn’t marred I would clean it very well and reuse it. Bleed your brakes and go for a drive around the neighborhood at low speeds and check for leaks. If none, you saved it
@@Apex_MZ3Thanks for the tip. Could I send you a pic of the piston? I also compressed it originally using a normal compressing tool, later noticed this piston has grooves inside, so I’m not sure if that could’ve damaged it
They should be there. I forgot to install them so I removed the caliper and made the clip showing where they go and never made a new clip of reinstalling the caliper
Everything else we're correct except for except for. Do you know what it is? You forgot to torque down the bracket bolts and caliper bolts most important things.
6:11 - missing cleaning the dirt from the caliper piston with a brass brush before compressing it all into the body. There is a lot of deposit over there. Great video otherwise
@@jasonm8259 I get 30ish as well. I am super conscious about cruising to stops or slowdowns without foot on gas and then consequently not using my brakes as much as possible. and not accelerating super fast if I don’t need to, seems to really help.
Dealership wanted to charge us $900 for changing the fronts so I’ll be visiting this video again in a few weeks. Thanks for this
Never go to a dealer. They only make money through service calls. Find yourself a local mechanic and they'll normally do it for at most 200-250 per axel if they're putting in good quality. So to charge 900 for 2 is wild, it should be close to 960 for them all
@@jakecoyne3919I actually did pay this price (well more actually $1000 for just the front ones), but I was worried sometimes at these private shops they rush and get things wrong. I did an oil change in a local shop and they used the wrong oil lmao. So yeah it's a gamble.
Thanks for the video. I hit a snag on getting the rotors off but was able to figure out the rotor screw trick. Otherwise, pretty spot on.
Came here just to check if there was anything non-standard involved. Glad to see it's just your typical brake job with no BS!
Me too!! I was totally expecting some hidden trickery.
Cannot thank you enough for this one, man! Planning on doing my brakes soon and this is a huge help.
Thanks so much, dude. I rewatched this video three times already (as I'm new to maintain cars)
This has to be the best video on 4th gen mazda3 brakes thanks for sharing
Thank you so much from Italy! pls add more videos like this
Ive seen your car at the porsche dealer towards the beggining of this year. Crazy how I found my way to this. Great vid btw
Lmao I work there. Glad the video helped!
This is a super helpful video!!! Thank you man
Going to use this video to change the brakes on my wife's car using a kit I got from RockAuto. Many thanks man.
Thanks very much for this! Nice ride btw.
This video is great! Thanks and kind regards from germany. 👌🏻
Good job 👍
Great video, I'm planning on changing my rotors soon on my Mazda. At 1:48 would you happen to know the model number on your Milwaukee tool??
great job. this really is a good help. One thing I wanted to ask is how do you do the rears? i believe it has EPB(emergency parking break).. TIA
Cars that have an electric e-brake just need to be put in service mode for that. It’s different for all cars, but someone on TH-cam did a video on how to do that. Basically put car in auxiliary mode, depress brake, push brake button, push start button 3 times while still pressing brake button. You should see brake light go off. And when you want to turn service mode off, you basically do the same thing but pull brake button up instead of down.
If the brakes are pulsating, getting the rotors cut on the car can solve the issue, make sure to cut them on the car as theyll be cut how they spin on the car and not on some random machine.
Doing my front & back in a couple weeks, this video helped a lot! Do you have a video for the back because of the parking sensor or electric parking? whatever’s goin on back there lol
I don’t have a video yet since my pads haven’t really work in the rear and I’m at 66k. I’ll make one once I have to do it
Thanks for the video, but just changed those little mouse brakes for Corksport's front big brake kit...
for tools needed in total what is advised for this job ?
Thanks for very Helpfull Video. One Question tho, do i need to replace to Pad Clips, or can i leave the old ones in?
You can reuse the old ones if they’re in good condition. Highly recommend to clean all the brake dust off of the old ones to minimize possibility of brake noise
Did you drill in the screw im hitting the disk like crasy not coming out??
Do you finish tie all that bolts whit any torque wrench?
Great video. I have todo mine as well. New subd to your ch.
Does anyone know with the rear brakes do I need to spin the piston caliber when compressing it or just compress it normally
Great video thanks for making this. Are the rear much different?
Same process but the rears need to be put into service mode as they have an electric parking brake
The service manual says not to turn it when compressing. Now I’m confused
@@timothysmith7700 you are correct. I looked at the wrong service manual
@@timothysmith7700 are you talking about the rear brake caliber pistons? do they need to be rotated when compressing them?
@@Apex_MZ3 are you talking about the rear brake caliber pistons? do they need to be rotated when compressing them?
Can you please make video on rear brake pads too 😊
It’s the same process, but you also have to put the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode. The rear rotors are smaller than the front. Check online for the specified torque values on the two sets of bolts - they differ between the two sets, as well as from front to rear
Holding in the disk?
Brakes needed replacing after a year into ownership? The pads did not look that bad. I hear rotors on these 4th gens warp easily from the factory.
Hey man, whenever you do the rears, could you please make a video for that as well?
Will do!
@@Apex_MZ3hey man, you planning on doing a video for the rear?
@@jovannijosephmortgages yes, once they need replacing. So far they’re still fine at 82k
rear brakes next?
How about brake pad changing tutorial on the rear
What are the torque specs??
Hey, when pushing the caliper piston back in, did you need to crack the brake fluid reservoir cap to release pressure at all? ive seen that it is recommended for other cars, this will be my first Mazda job. Thanks!!
Nope, no need to. That’s really only done if there’s air in the system, but you would bleed the brakes if so
Thanks for asking, I had to do that for some of my other cars. 😉
Now we need to see a video for the back? 👍🏽
great video , would you know by any chance where i can buy the clips ? , my brembo kit didnt come with them , thanks
Auto parts stores should be able to get them
@@Apex_MZ3 ok thanks man
😊
I turned my maintenance mode on to replace my rear pads and rotors but accidentally turned it back on while disassembled. The caliper spit out the piston on the driver side. I also had compressed the piston using a regular tool instead of the suggested one, so you know if I’ll need to buy a whole caliper or if buying a piston + caliper repair kit will do? Trying to save on costs as much as possible. Rockauto currently does not have a caliper for 2021 mazda 3
If the piston isn’t marred I would clean it very well and reuse it. Bleed your brakes and go for a drive around the neighborhood at low speeds and check for leaks. If none, you saved it
@@Apex_MZ3Thanks for the tip. Could I send you a pic of the piston? I also compressed it originally using a normal compressing tool, later noticed this piston has grooves inside, so I’m not sure if that could’ve damaged it
Hey, do you need to put the vehicle in any kind if special service mode ? Both times after changing breaks i had a ton of syntem errors
You don’t have to be in service mode for the front brakes. You do when doing the rears as the electric parking brake needs to be disengaged
I’ve just been noticing some shaking at low speeds from the wheel. I was suggested to change the rotors. Is this common?
Yea that’s pad buildup on the rotor. Make sure to change your pads as well so you get and even contact with the new rotors
How did you like the pads? I’m putting these on the rear.
They’re not bad. I have about 20k on them so far and they’re holding up
What is this gun type ? For opening the bolts? The one you used for caliper not the wheel
@@yasaako The red one? If so, it’s an electric ratchet
8:35 as you are remounting the caliper, the spring clips are no longer there?
They should be there. I forgot to install them so I removed the caliper and made the clip showing where they go and never made a new clip of reinstalling the caliper
Are the rears any different
They’re identical except that you have to put the caliper into service mode before you compress the piston or you’ll damage them
Should i bleed the brake lines when doing this?
No need unless you’re at the interval when it’s due
Did you forget to put the springs back on or its not required?
The ones you take off at 2:16
Woops just saw you putting em on. Thanks for the video. I can finally get this done myself
That hole 🕳 Ont the disk is that a bolt 🔩 inside?
No there is not set screw on the rotors
@@Apex_MZ3 so wait the disk basically in a sense just hangs there ? No screws goes in the holes ?
@@diegopaul5023 most vehicles with studs don’t use anything but the studs and the wheel to hold the rotor in place
@@Apex_MZ3 I appreciate the response thank you 🙏
what rims are those?
Rays Gramlights 57DR
Everything else we're correct except for except for. Do you know what it is? You forgot to torque down the bracket bolts and caliper bolts most important things.
6:11 - missing cleaning the dirt from the caliper piston with a brass brush before compressing it all into the body. There is a lot of deposit over there. Great video otherwise
I need to know how you’re getting 31.5 mpg lol
Just driving lol. I’ve gotten up to 36.6 before
@@Apex_MZ3 I live in New York and I’m getting like 20-25 in my ‘20 no turbo
@@jasonm8259 I get 30ish as well. I am super conscious about cruising to stops or slowdowns without foot on gas and then consequently not using my brakes as much as possible. and not accelerating super fast if I don’t need to, seems to really help.
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1:15
2:07