Watch This Before Buying Brakes & Rotors...
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Upgrading your vehicle’s braking system can seem like a daunting task. But in reality, it’s simple when you have the brake buying guides below. If you’re stumped on which accessories to buy, our Mod Experts will point you in the right direction. Want to bolt on a burly brake mod, but don’t know how yet? No problem, we’ve got you covered with the installation guide that will have your vehicle up and running in no time.
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#brakesystems #rotors
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One factor is important to the choice of Brakes, the intended use.
I see C6 ZR1’s with Carbon Fiber Brakes which , as you correctly stated are stupid money to replace.
For the average street driving in North America, a total waste of money unless ( like the Criss Drilled Rotor fad) for bragging only.
I drove my C6 (standard Brakes, mostly) on the German Autobahn extensively at fairly hi speeds and never had an issue with fading and such.
For average street driving In North America, huge fixed caliper brakes are also a complete and total waste of coin, and for bragging/bling only as well, especially for rides that will never see even open track lapping days. 😉
I love brake talk, initially it was hard to find good info. The recommended service life of rubber lines is something i try to preach, it's an interesting issue because the rubber lines will work for 30 years, but people can get to that point, start having problems and not even realize they should be replacing lines.
But i find the most fun i have talking brakes is triggering people. You simply can't tell people drilled rotors aren't an upgrade on an open forum without someone taking it very personal. I've been super nice and super factual but still blocked on Facebook over it.
I'm sorry if it has already been mentioned prior to this comment but the info about brake fluid being used to cool the brakes is not its purpose. its primary purpose is to provide hydraulic pressure to squeeze the pads against the rotating disc. Having better grades of brake fluid help provide a more consistent brake pressure as the heat transferred from the pads and rotors to the caliper thin the fluid. The higher the boiling point the longer the fluid can resist the heat and therefore thinning reducing brake force. In other words, less brake fade over repeated stops.
Yup the heat transfer :)
@@talkingmods Nope, not heat transfer. Boiling point. There's a difference.
@@talkingmods How much transfer do you get in a non-circulating system? Imagine if your engine cooling system didn't circulate. MrPeacekeeper44 is right.
bottom line, YOU DO NOT NEED performance brakes, unless you have a performance oriented ride and drive it like that. The 1st place to start when needing performance stopping (because you changed the power of the vehicle and plan to use it) is the tires. then the rims (getting lighter rims to lower the un sprung weight) then when you add a larger diameter rotor kit (braking is translating the motion into heat, a large diameter rotor will give you more time before the system gets so hot it diminishes stopping power) and if that's not enough (you feel un eveness in stopping power due to things like warped over-heated rotors and a ton of other issues) you need slotted, cross drilled or both. And if that's not enough you go to carbon fiber and start the process again. Also, noise while braking is an issue, it shows a few possible problems like over wearing, overheating and is a sign of an inadequate breaking system....but not always. Brakes are very technical and you can do wrong by over or under engineering the system. There is real math behind it and it is not something you want to just throw parts at.
Very valuable information. My wife said it was very informative because she realized that she has horrible brakes on her BMW and she’s only using.three when she supposed to be using one.5.1
Cross drilled vented rotors help expel heat, gasses, water, and debris/dust faster to prevent brake fade. This is obviously noticeable when driving spiritedly in the mountains and other hilly areas. I've run both plain, slotted, and crossed drilled for years each (crossed drilled AND slotted since), and the difference in braking with crossed drilled in high heat producing situations like hilly, twisty canyon driving (particularly downhill) in Colorado is beyond obvious. Cross drilling (not "dimpling") does make a huge difference. So I'd have to disagree with his assessment of cross drilled rotors, because they are VERY beneficial, in my opinion and experience more so that slotted only.
I installed some drilled and slotted rotors on my work truck. It made a huge difference. I was surprised for sure.
100% correct. That's why Porshe, BMW others use drilled rotors for the reasons you mentioned above.
I crack the drilled ones any brand
@@Mine-z6w How? Unless they are cheap low quality brands or you're using them beyond their wear limits (too thin). I have never seen or experienced cracked drilled rotors unless it was a tracked car with rotors at or beyond their wear limit.
@@KingZoneOnedrilled rotors aren’t used in motorsport anymore for exactly that reason. He’s probably cracking them by taking them on the track. The amount of off gassing has been reduced on the pad end, so now motorsport rotors are just slotted to improve the initial bite.
This was the most beneficial video I've ever watched on breaks. I'm considering a big brake kit on a 2012 Raptor that I track on dirt a lot. I've been dabbling on road tracking it which is where I know I would be needing greater stopping power. Thank you for all of the detail add hard work that was put into this video
how can you spell "break" and then 5 words later spell it correctly?
Half of the info is not correct..
@@knurri I use talk-to-text a lot
What about high carbon rotors vs cast iron?
I recently bought some Brembo front brakes for my 2006 w220 s500, They both came with left side vanes. One side was appropriate, and the other was venting the opposite way. I purchased them from a reputable supplier and was told that's what's being sent out now. I wasn't very happy about that, but I installed them anyway.
They lied to you.
I would replace with similar to what it came with.
Bought my sweetheart a 2012 impala with 40k on it about 8 years ago. I apologize as this doesn't apply to super car brakes. Shortly after owning it, the front brakes needed replacing. Bought Decent rotors and pads from Napa. About 10k miles later, the rotors warped. Keep in mind I torque each lug nut and clean the hub with a wire wheel. Yes...I showed her how to manually down shift the tranny to take advantage of engine braking. We live in a hilly area similar to San Fransisco. So I upped my game and bought the best Napa sold and the rotors warped once again within 10k-15k miles. I then ordered some drilled and slotted rotors and supposedly matching pads online for a considerably higher price. They worked great until the pads wore out and ruined the rotors. I believe the drilled and slotted rotors/pads made it another 25k miles. I cheaped out and bought some cheaper....but not the cheapest rotors and pads and sure as shit...the rotors are warped again. UGH....I am truly tired of this. Turning rotors has become a thing of the past and I believe they will re-warp anyhow. I think it truly comes down to the manufacturing process. Vented rotors obviously have to be cast and I would surmise that pre and post heating for the casting process is the culprit during the process. Any thoughts or recommendations for my situation moving forward? Thanks for any advice!
warping can be caused by the parking brake when the rotors are still hot, that might be something if they're warping THAT often
In my experience, if you cut a warped rotor, they don't tend to warp again unless you really abuse them. It seems most (regular car) rotors develop internal stresses in the manufacturing process. The multitude of heat cycles seems to relive these stresses causing warping. I have had every set of parts store rotors warp, even name brands. I have been using power stop for some time now (initially because they came zinc washed) and haven't had any warped rotors. They seem to be well machined and precisely cast vs other regular street car rotors. I'm sure there are other brands that are affordable and comparable as well.
All Chinese rotors warp.
Does not matter the brand. Voice of experience here...
Get some good quality pads and rotors like Powerstop or EBC
Engine brake?
gotta mention too that metallic pads shed hot metal flakes that burn the paint finish on the wheels.
Not to get argumentative, But if heat is the enemy of brakes, Cross drilled ( chamfered) and slotted allow heat to dissipate much faster and avoid rotors from getting warped, glazed or damaged. Its much cheaper to replace your brake parts more frequently ( every 30-45k miles ) than not being able to stop in time and having a collision. I think you generalized too many things and inadvertently misinformed many in this video. I have seen and experienced substantial shorter braking distances ( much less brake fade) by utilizing carbon ceramic brake pads ( Hawk ) and cross drilled ( chamfered) and slotted rotors. I am in the auto service business and NEVER seen any warped rotors which have this design. Not true of solid rotors. Warping and fading is a common issue.
I agree with you about the brake lines and brake fluid types for boil points,. The takeaway, is proper selection of brands, quality and type of use. Street, high performance street, track, etc.
Man, this guy is all over the place. If anyone really tried to make sense out of what he's trying to say , will end up in mental asylum
lol .. most warping comes from rapid 'cooling' of a very hot rotor thats clamped stationary in a caliper that holds the heat in that spot ... so do a hard stop from 90 and come to a dead stop holding the car still, gonna fry it ..
Hi, and THX for the basics of disc brake components. Very informative and well done. I have a 2021 Toyota Highlander V6 AWD. I like the vehicle but with only 40000 mi. it seems that I have rotor problems. 80% of this vehicle's mileage has been from the same 480 mile trip from Orange Co. in So. Cal. to El Dorado County in No, Cal. I almost always have 2 passengers and about 350 lbs. of cargo, at about 125 miles there is a 6 mi. 6% grade hill on I-5 where most lighter vehicles are generally starting their descent at about 70-77 mph. Well, doesn't take a doctorate in physics to determine that you need to use the brakes to keep the vehicle at or under 80 mph. Ive probably made this trip 18 - 20 times and now I've developed a light to moderate brake pulsation. Yes, I could have a hanging caliper at the root of the problem but the braking was very smooth until about 39-40K mi. and I would think that a hanging caliper would have produced some symptoms before 39K mi. My question is, in order to keep from replacing pads and rotors a bit more frequently than I'd like to, do you think that higher grade front rotors (slotted?) will make a significant difference. I'm truly dissapointed that this one big hill has caused warped rotors from heat build up but I'm planning on making this trip with the same frequency and don't want to keep replacing brake parts. Your thoughts, please?
Have you tried gearing down to use engine braking on the hills? This will save considerable brake wear, even if you only use it for the long downhill sections...
Your brakes are only as good as the traction that your tires can provide.
always the other factor :)
You also have brake fade. You want to keep your rotors and pads as cool as possible
@@ThomasShelby-uq8czwhich is why drilled rotors are superior
@@2seep
Negative. Porsche, Ferrari and others made by Brembo have holes cast into the rotor blank! Unless you buy a rotor made this way, drilled rotors will crack and FAIL!!!
Slotted rotors are always better for the street application!
Bad brakes can lock up.
Tire has no say.
Great information and great explanation. Thank You Sir !
Pretty good job covering that stuff in a short time. You managed to get in a sentence on cross drilling and F1 cars which I thought was good. Cross-drilling is very important for motorcycles because with a solid rotor in the rain that is pucker time unless you constantly drag to front brakes. Waste of time/money for normal cars but it looks cool for guys who want that. Had some minor disagreement on organic pads - I don't think Tire Rack sells any organic pads so they're not in demand ?
Appreciate you watching! Well I don't know buy from Tire Rack, and we sell our brakes from multiple manufactures at www.ModBargains.com (I am the CEO) but to name a few brands that are organic based are like Pagid, Hawk HPS (uses carbon), I think EBC has a pad as well. In terms of Demand well most big brake kits come with an organic pad because they want the rotors to last, plus you won't get the squeaking. Hope that helps.
Thank you for all the information, videos like this are a blessing.
You are so welcome
excellent video. Very informative and your not long winded.
I have a Honda Accord Touring I love, low mileage, less than 10k.year. Have a history of being brake eaters. Can you recommend a premium rotor/calliper when the time comes?
For vehicle specific brands , have to review what is available and then make the best recommendation for you, our team here at ModBargains.com can help, can always email us at sales@ModBargains.com or contact us at 714.582.3330
*Hi Ron: Another superb presentation. Always filled with pertinent, necessary info, your presentations are never too long!*
*However, you neglected to mention: By virtue of their angle slots direct the gasses outward. These gasses are generated by hot chemical binders in the pads that otherwise are trapped between pad-rotor interface. Gasses are directed to rotor periphery and thence to the air stream. However slight, gasses have mass and like water are also subject to centrifugal force.*
*Would love to see interviews with Brembo, Stop Tech and other industry leading technical specialists. Sadly, most engineers worth hearing from are usually reticent but non-engineering marketing types will talk your ears off.*
*Your timing of this video is auspiciously spot-on. Thank you for directing me to Racing Brake. After careful assembly the slotted floater-discs work like a champ in this infernal rain. With fresh ECE 90-compliant ceramic pads, experience informs me they're just as wet-effective as the old, X-drilled and now-cracked discs. Price-worthy water pumpers supreme. Thank you again, love ya' and Cheers!*
Awesome glad you liked it! Great addition on the angle of of the slots. Very welcome sir :)
The direction the gasses go from slots is irrelevant as there is ample room for them to evacuate either way, even towards the hub side. Furthermore, slots are for slicing or shaving the pad, although they catch and evacuate gasses as well, that is not their intended purpose, that is what cross-drilled holes are for (which route the gasses towards the cooling vanes and out) You want the slot to tip-in towards the pads with the direction of rotation, not the way you suggested, in order to shave (clean) the pad properly. If one is concerned about out-gassing, you'd be looking at something with cross drilled holes as well as slots, as that is not what slots are for.
I appreciate all the good "info" you provided! Didn't know a lot of what you covered! Thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m thinking to upgrade roters and pad on my 2019 Toyota highlander
I understand the reason behind drilling the rotorsbut I don’t drive like I’m in a race so I’m not hammering the brakes in my trucks. Heat is a big reason for warping rotors.
Yeah trucks carry a lot of weight in general, braking on them is going to generate heat far more then say most passanger vehicles, and the more heat that keeps getting put into it the likelihood of warping goes up.
I appreciate your break video I think we all can learn as much as possible about brakes and the technology that is in them. Thanks again keep up the great work.
Thank you for saying that !
4 runner keeps warping the rotors should I upgrade the caliper or just the rotors
Rare for a caliper to go bad (very rare, but not like it can't happen) Could have it taken apart and evaluated if the caliper is bad. Make sure you do fresh pads and rotors at the same time to prevent warping. If there is plenty of life on the rotors (then to save money get them turned) and get some new pads.
Keeping the old brake fluid in the line or flush with fluid sitting on the shelves for a few years that once been opened?
You forgot to mention that for the high end car manufacturers, they use rotor blanks with the holes cast in! Just drilling a blank rotor to get the holes will eventually cause them to crack and fail!!!
You are right, great comment! I see this in the aftermarket side too where some places are taking blanks drilling them, then slapping their name with no disregard for the quality of the brakes. Why this is so important people understand it.
Great information,never knew a great deal about breaks ,now I know much more great explanations 😊
Glad it was helpful!
BRAKES
@@closg9309lol, still has more to learn.
Thanks for the video. I driving amg and driving fast all the time. Ceramics brake pads I will buy .
Good video but do you guys have modified hub centric rings to fit over sized rotors on my VW Tiguan??
I'm very interested in upgrading the calipers on my vehicle from floating to fixed because I am so beyond tired of them sticking and causing issues like warped rotors, overheating brakes, loss of acceleration, increased pad wear, loss of fuel economy, etc. I noticed that many of the fixed calipers have slots for rapidly changing pads, which I think is cool for a track, but I don't care much about that for a daily driven street car. I do care a lot about the pads retracting with the pistons away from the rotors though to prevent sticking pads or pads that are constantly in contact with the rotor surface. Because of the slide through design, I've noticed that a lot of the pads for fixed calipers don't come with metal springs or tabs that hold them in place against the piston like what is typically found in floating calipers. Because I wouldn't be tracking my car, ever, I would much rather sacrifice the ability to quickly change pads to have them fixed to the pistons and then just have to remove the caliper when I want to change pads (~30,000-50,000 miles). Do these types of brake pads, with metal springs/tabs, exist for fixed piston calipers? Thanks for posting this informative video for beginners!
I am hopefully going to do a sit down with one of the guys at Brembo's I'll to include your question in there. I can't recall a different pad existing for it
@@talkingmods I recently did a brake job on my car and discovered the metal prongs I mentioned in my earlier comment were only on the rear and not on the front pads. The vehicle in question is a 2010 Honda CR-V. I'm curious if that brake pad feature is not only unique to the rear pads, but to Honda in general because I've never seen that feature on any other brake pads. Nontheless, thank you for your response! I'll be interested to hear what Brembo says!
@@justin_timemy 2001 Volvo S60 had inner pads with tabs that kept them attached to the pistons on the floating caliper design, both front and rear. My current car, a Lexus is250 does not have them
@@michaelvd2467 Thanks for adding that! I'm glad to know it wasn't just a special case on my one car. It seems like a really good design to me too.
@@justin_time I thought so too, you also need less shims and stuff around the pads to keep them from moving around inside the caliper saddle
Awesome video, thank you for this info!
Wow! Wow, Wow, and Wow - the accurate, spot on, no B/S Truth about brakes! Super well done.
Could you recommend braking kit (big brake or just nice looking one) which would be very corrosion resistant? My main desire is to uplift the cars appearance. Bonus in braking performance is welcome, but not the most required property as factory brakes are even more than enough for the purpose of every day driving.
I understand that most of the brake disks will rust in moist and winter conditions.
But I have seen brakes which appear to be significantly more resistant to that than others.
Notable example are (I think they are four piston) brakes from the Mercedes which appear to just slightly loose their metallic shine, while mine look like they have been stolen from the junkyard :)
I know that couple of stronger braking events remove the rust from the braking surface of the disk, but the rest of the disk still has the rust. And I really do not wish to remove the wheels every time after the rain to scrub it all off :)
Thank you for any advice or help!
So couple things that create rust - is things like the top hat of the Rotor - so having a painted corrosion resistant one. As to to the rotors they also have different coatings - usually E-coating that helps prevent the corrosion level. With big brake kit the majority have some type of resistance to weather conditions as well, happy to help you on an individual vehicle basis of course just be aware of the big brake cost as to some it's a bit of a shock. You can contact us at Sales@ModBargains.com or can call us at 714.582.3330
I thought the crossdrilling was for additonal cooling? It also weakens the rotor contributing to cracking.
You didn't mention that Dot 5 brake fluid is NOT compatible with 3, 4, and 5.1. You can switch between the latter 3 any time. The higher the number the higher the boiling temperature and also the more likely it will adsorb water. So, if you use the higher numbers of DOT brake fluid, you need to flush the lines more often.
Yeah cross drilling for cooling is a myth. All non sense to get people to spend. Knew this video would shake things that people know. I thought I mentioned the DOT fluid numbers but yes you said it perfectly on the benefit and drawbacks of it. I love the benefit over just having it to flush it out more often personally.
I have a F-250 King Ranch, and I am pulling a large 5th wheel trailer @ 18,000 gvwr. , Justifiably towing that kind of load would require a one ton. However, I wanted to stay with my F-250, because it does the job of towing, and provides me with a run around pickup. Does the stock brakes on the F-250 need to be upgraded? Would it be worth the money to upgrade the brakes?
.....you is towing that much weight and asking people on TH-cam what you should do with brakes and is it going to be worth it for you?
You can't be serious
I stopped watching when you started talking about heat dissipation and two piece rotors. Please give accurate information or don’t post. The video was wobbly before that and was most likely going to get worse.
I did watch the second half and it did get worse! When you post this stuff people believe you and you have a responsibility not to talk absolute nonsense.
Nice video. Do you have a recommendation for a 2018 elantra sport 1.6 turbo? Looking for a oem plus with blank rotors than can stand up to a Canadian winter and some better than factory ceramic pads.
Thanks for the great video sir 🫡
2010 impala original rotors very warped but lasted. Changed at 120 k. Bought cheap slotted and drilled rotors with ceramic pads. Very noisy growling sounds. What’s your recommendation for rotor brand pads and quality level for impala.
Sorry late reply, but I would first recommend rebedding the brakes in - often times noise is due to incorrect contact. A ceramic pad generally should not be making much noise unless it wasn't bedded in correctly. As to brand specific for a vehicle, you would have to speak to us here at ModBargains 714.582.3330 or sales@ModBargains.com and we could look up specific available options.
I upvoted and subscribed for the following reasons: Hey is a groovy cat and he would be a total bro to chill with at the bar and have a beer with while watching a game and 2: he said universality. Fuck yeah you rock.
Why no mention of semi metallic
Question ❓ id like to pick your brain , seems toyotas rav 4 & highlanders & all years old & new having warping issues?? Too small of a rotor ? Shit metal ? Calipers too small ? Or all of the above?? & What would you slap on them ?? Thanks !!
wasn't aware of the problem, hmm and this is OEM going this route. I am guessing going to a new caliper set/big brake kit is out of the question cause of budget constraints. I would probably go with like a Pagid or Fordo organic pad, that is still going to be aggressive but would be less harsh on the rotor. Will probably lose some stopping power my guess is they are using metallic compound that is stressing the rotor out. I'd compensate for the lack of that extra stopping power with stainless lines for better feel .
Thanks fir the video. Please create a video on drum and shoes. Thank you
Thanks all you said sounds very sound thank you for a strait forward and informative video
Welcome!
Does it matter if I use brembo brake pads on relegar rotors
nope you are fine, you can always pair up pads and rotors with different brands.
Doesn't support my crossover suv through the link. I have 2018 chevrolet traverse AWD LT
most important topic not really covered. difference in longevity of the rotors and which are more and which are less prone to warping.
Does anyone know of a product of similar quality to KVR Performance carbon fiber brake pads and cadmium plated cross drilled rotors?
I bought a set of these for my front brakes in 2004 and they lasted the rest of the life of the car, which was 15+ years and almost 200k miles. KVR Performance closed down I guess.
I always buy what is recommended for my vehicle, that way, I know that my vehicle will be in good shape
Aftermarket, from a good brand, are better than OEM in every respect for most cars, especially non performance cars.
Great video, man. Thanks for your hard work.
Hoped you might have some advice i have an audi tt mk3 and have order replacement pads from ebc but they came without a sensor attacked to the new pads can I still install them or should I send them back.
Why would you want sensor attack new pads??
@dkrawk8309 My bad, the old pads were so badly caked in break dust that I didn't realise the sensors just pull off 😆
You should be fine with the sensors that came with the pads :) Guessing you may have installed them already. Typically sensors are separately purchased.
Actually, you might mention that stainless steel braided brake lines take the "Sponginess" out of braking because they don't expand and contract nearly as much as rubber brake line hoses do. This is particularly noticeable on Motorcycles, and yes it does increase confidence, making the bike feel more "Sure Footed". Also, heat dissipation is not a big factor when you have a Hybrid or Electric car with Dynamic braking as most of the energy in heat normally dissipated in the brakes instead goes back into charging the battery. Although I guess this channel is about automotive performance?
I love the feedback here this is what I would hope for is comments like this from other sides like Motorcycles. I 've always wanted to ride Motorcycles but my experience is in the automotive world. But this is great feedback, thank you and hope you enjoy the channel even as a biker.
@@talkingmods your mention of "increased confidence" when referring to stainless lines was all I needed to get the hint...😉
What you think it be better for my 2008 ford crown vic p71
I don't think there are a lot of aftermarket options for the crown vic, but for me to recommend depends on what driving is going to be done. Feel free to reach out to one of our ModExperts here at ModBargains
What type of brakes make the least amount of brake dust? And what type would you recommend for a Honda SUV/CR-V? Thanks.
Ceramic coated pads and rotors are way better than factory and cause hardly no brake dust .
@@bootskennedy6426 Thanks for the reply!
@@bootskennedy6426no one is putting ceramic rotors on a CRV. Ceramic pads on the other hand are easy and fairly cheap. Thing is they don’t brake quite as good as metallic and a CRV doesn’t have the best brakes to begin with. Won’t matter much in daily driving, but in an emergency a few feet could make a big difference.
Very informative! Thanks so much for sharing!👍
Unless you drive like a maniac, normal OEM are just fine
Upgrading the lines to braided S/S is the only thing I do for my street cars, any more than that is a waste of money.
Hi
I've just bought a car that came with ceramic rotors, and I'm trying to understand if such rotors need specific pads. Somewhere I read they should be low metallic, but I don't know if that means semi metallic? When looking online for pads I never see clear information in the eshops, so I'm simply unsure. If someone could shed some light on this topic I'd be more than grateful.
Your rotors are most likely ceramic carbon composite. I would use pads of the same material, or the lowest metal content ceramic pads you can find. If you know the manufacturer of the rotors or a car manufacturer that uses such (Porsche, Alfa Romero, etc) I would reach out to them for a recommendation.
I'll have a look if I can figure out the manufacturer. It's an RS3, that much I know. I reached out to EBC, but they didn't seem to be able to help, I asked if could use their ceramic pads. I'm new to such rotors, and I haven't seen anywhere a clear statement saying "these are great for carbon ceramic rotors."
@@mccap81for as much as you just spent on those rotors stick with the pads made to go with them. Don’t try to out engineer the company that made them to save a few bucks.
@seashackf1 Thanks for the reply. In the end I went for OE pads based on recommendation.
@@mccap81 smart move, ceramics are different than iron rotors. Mixing and matching isn’t as easy.
Thanks. Great information
I want to break traction of the rear wheels really quickly :D
An error that you made is stating that slotted rotors wear pads faster. Not true of premium level rotors that have chamfered slots. I generally get 80-90,000 miles on a set of pads on F150, F250 and F350 pickups using slotted and drilled rotors and HD towing pads. The last set of pads on my F350 went 82K and where only replaced when the friction material broke off one of the steel backer plates. Three of the 4 rotors looked like new while the one with the failed pad could have been resurfaced and still be within limits. I replaced them all anyhow, just because I could. The other remaining 6 pads pads were only at a measured 50% vs the new identical brand part number
Yes, I wondered about that statement too.
what brand rotor did you use?
@@ajones8008 Powerstop - which I've used with great results along with their Z36 pads
Great stuff. 👍
What do you recommend for 2015 Lexus gs 350 f sport rwd? Couldn’t find any at the website
Recommend for what?
Feel free to reach out to us at www.ModBargains.com sales@modbargains.com or 714.582.3330 , the team is constantly adding on a ton of products to the site.
Unless you're looking at replacing your rotors as often as your pads, avoid drilled rotors, they have a tendency to crack!
Brake fluid doesn't cool the brake pad, calipers or anything else! High boiling point is so any moisture in your brake fluid doesn't turn to steam. What are you trying to say?
FFS, it's "BRAKES", people, NOT "breaks"!
Cross drilled will aid de-gassing, which is why it's used, but the drillings are GREAT for promoting cracking of the discs, due to thermal expansion differences, and can even lead to the disc shattering/exploding!
Breaking news! Cross drilled rotors cause the brakes to break while braking. Give yourself a break. Buy some decent brakes.
*What model of Rolex are you wearing?*
The information i got about slotted/ drill-slotted rotors is that thoes rotors dissabates Heat, which means the rotors will not heat up as much like standard roters ,which makes the pads last longer, nuff-said 😮😊
Thats a big myth on rotors. They don't make the pads last longer. I just might bring in a representative from Brembo down for this for you guys.
Earned a subscriber 👍
When a car comes from the factory the brakes have to meet certain standards that are laid down by the country's DOT. They will exceed these by some margin. An SUV fully loaded at its maximum speed has to stop with ease and safely. The standard brakes will do this. Many years later the same cars brakes feel poor . When were they last stripped rebuilt with O E parts and had the brake fluid flushed through with new fluid ? When an " upgrade " is done with calipers ,slotted discs and high performance pads etc , they will feel great , you've just just done a rebuild. But with all these bigger components with different diameter brake discs and caliper pistons I never see that a new vital brake master cylinder mentioned , perhaps one of the most crucial parts.....Oh and good quality OE spec tyres play an enormous part as they transfer the braking force applied to the road.
So before going mad on fancy stuff , try rebuilding your OE brakes to original spec and investing in high quality tyres you might be genuinely impressed.
I'm not going to watch this video again, but it was disorganized enough that I feel like I'd have to watch it three times to get the useful info out of it.
What’s better 4 or 6 piston calipers kit for a daily driver/track?I can’t decide 🤦🏾♂️
13 piston
Great video, thanks!
Thanks
Welcome
Organic wears faster not slower than metallic
Thanks for the video. Right now I'm interested in knowing a g9d brand to buy for rotors on my 07 Honda Accord. I currently have Bosch front rotors and are putting where the pads sat. First time I've ever seen anything like that. Rotors are about 4 years old. Not buying Bosch again. Also, you should just focus on passenger vehicles instead of talking about exotic cars. I bet you 99.9% of the ppl watching this are passenger vehicle owners.
@13:19 '...brake fluid is what we're using to dissipate the heat'. Say WHAT?!? If that were true, where are the brake fluid coolers??
😂😂😂😂😂 they are under rear passenger seat man!
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are not the same as Dot 5 and the two groups are not interchangeable at all.
Bro said yeah u gotta change them out every six years 😭 bro made it sound u gotta change them every 10 months
I don’t know much about brakes, but the whole “cross drilled” argument, they in theory are supposed to expel heat and prevent warping from them being cooler when hitting water.
Bruh o have a Nissan Altima 🤷🏻♂️ not really worried about stopping form 120mph to 0 in 0.003 seconds
First off thank you for watching, but the next time it's time to get brakes, you can look at aftermarket to save some money and maybe still have a better performance, if you desire it, or have longer lasting brakes, or ones that don't dust as much.
Talking Mods - Your statement that there's no advantage to cross drilled rotors is not at all accurate. Cross drilling will help reduce heat and thus improve braking performance. Less noticeable for regular street driving, but definitely an improvement for track driving or heavy street use.
Sorry, just to reiterate it does not help reduce cooling - that is again a myth I am debunking (hence the video), but to help back me up I am trying to get one of Brembo's people on the channel (we all just have very limited amount of time) just to re-iterate my point it's obviously created a lot of stir.
I would say someone is biased about cross drilled rotors.
Something about flying a 747 with street clothes on is f_ckin bad ass.
I want to upgrade my Lamborghini Diablo brakes , make an offer , I’ll be right with u , I mean it ❤️👀
My advice is to shorten the wires from the sensor and don’t replace the pads! This is way cheaper! Also the brake light will never cum back again so no more annoying situations!
When it’s an option for a Ferrari, you know it’s expensive.
Title of video. upgrading brakes. for who? racing enthusiast or daily driver? your all over the place. video should be one or the other not a rid bit of info for both. i walked away with many questions. OEM is best.
Site sucks, filtering for a specific car just shows universal parts like any other site, ima stick with the sites that actually work
Break fluid dissipates heat. Lol. Whut?
This is the most underrated comment in the entire thread
Yes. Slow down and think. As one person said above, and it was an error technically the way he phrased it, but the meaning was dead on.
Obviously, AFTER it's job of communicating hydraulic pressure, the primary job/purpose is to be able to tolerat, and to some degree disipate, heat.
That is why there are so many levels of the fluid.
If you didn't believe that to be true, replace your brake fluid with water, or a light weight oil... Tell me how that works out for you.
I'm normal driving, passenger vehicle brakes operate around 500 F, with heavier use maybe 700 F, reading more you see where some situations could get them up higher... So the fluid on those lines need to stay stable, and help carry it disipate the heat through the line so it doesn't concentrate at the business end,...
Does that help explain what he was getting at? Brake fluid is extremely important.
And then think how temperature and pressure affect fluids. Think how strong your brake lines need to be... And then the idea of stainless/metal wrapped lines that may themselves help dissipate heat and not degrade due to heat like most rubber/plastics do over time... As well as not definitely under the instantaneous pressure w wave, giving a more library or consistent brake feel.
This is important stuff.
Read some more for depth. This was an excellent video. Can't do the topic justice with technical details and not lost people who want quick summaries.
Happy Motoring
This is really useless for the guy that does his own brakes. I really needed info on brands and difference in rotors, not slotted etc., but just regular rotors. Warranties, how they are covered, when you can return, etc.
If you do your own brakes you can't return nothing and there is no warranty because you are not licensed mechanic and I don't believe there is a place in canada or u as of a where you are even allowed to work on your car which involves safety components
@@dkrawk8309 I have worked on my own brakes since 1965, on my first car a 1960 Corvair. I have returned brakes for warranty a few times with no problems. I also repair my own cars, change oil, etc. I currently drive a 2009 Honda Crv with 135,000 miles (bought new) and it has never been repaired. Front brakes went 88,000 miles, rears 108,000 miles. I also have a 2017 Toyota with 88,000 miles (bought new) and the front brakes have been replaced twice, once under warranty. My last car is a 1984 Mustang (bought new) has 75,000 miles and I don’t think the brakes have been done. Honda brakes usually last a long time, Toyota, I’m learning yet. When I started driving Hondas in 1996, I realized you drive them and not repair them. When Honda went to the small engines with turbos and CVT transmissions, I refused to buy them and I bought the Toyota. I was a Chevrolet man from 1965 to mid 1990’s. Then I switched, now I drive, but don’t repair. Repairing brakes on most regular cars is easy. You can find some good tutorials on You Tube. Replacing pads, shoes, pins, rubbers, rotors and hardware is not difficult. Most people that are handy can do this. I taught my grandson and he does most of my maintenance. Even my son-in-law was taught by his boss at work. I have lived in the Chicago area since 1955.
This just fine for someone like me who is replacing their rotors for the first time. Just wanna know what I'm looking at; specific reviews and tests will help me decide on brands.
This guy should be a politician. He talked for 15 & a half minutes and didn't really say anything worth listening to other than "it just depends on what you want". Complete waste of a quarter of an hour!
Thanks whenit is a women prospective 😊!!
Organic are dogshit. Semi metalic or ceramic break pads are the king. Drilled rotors are the best cause they let break pad gases go away making the pads and discs to have better contact during racing or downhill breaking!
Mostly good information. Weak information on function of brake fluid and purpose and why swapping to higher boiling point fluids are beneficial.
I disagree with you about brake lines. Toyota and Lexus brake lines don't go bad in 5 years. That is probably Chevy, Ford and Mc vehicles.
Did I say the brake lines go bad? I think I said the service interval to brake fluid changes right.
you mean pads and rotors . otherwise you just said redundant and more redundanter
Too bad you are not a brake specialist!!
I don't manufacturer brakes, but I do have extensive knowledge on it, but since I am considering bringing in a Brembo representative just for you guys , lots of misinformation out there.
The purpose of "drilled rotors" is specifically for cooling. I've have had the pads on my 2010 Mazda 3 since 2016 without changing them. In that time, we've put 60,000 miles on the vehicle. They are ceramic pads with drilled rotors.
Drilled rotors are for more friction and better cooling .
And for better pad chewing
Better chewing yes, less life on pads.. Friction, not sure if I'd call it that. Cooling no. But for sure a way to get rid of water better :) Guys they are not for better cooling - I will bring in a manufacturer to do a sit down since my word isn't enough.
@@talkingmods drilled rotors don't cool better??
What's wrong with you?
Why is there front vented rotors and rear solid rotors?
Just because? Do you have your grade 6 in physics bruh?
This knowledge comes from me experiencing and talking with multiple people in the industry and who produce brakes, and plenty of race teams, from formula 1 etc.
Go look up a formula 1 vehicle they are all about less weight and cooling of course, why aren't they using those rotors in races? But cross drilled will only show up on rain day type of days, because it expels water. I make these videos because I am in this every day, so to educate and cut through the myth and help you guys make better choices. But it sure creates for some good drama I guess and as I mentioned I'll bring in someone else for you guys in future so that you can hear it from someone else.