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Hey Scotty, I’ve been listening to you for a long time, I am a 20 year mechanic in a shop, I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla that has never seen a garage,, but my question is actually about my Dodge Caravan with 230,000 miles, I’ve had for four years, and had 195,000 miles when I got it,,I got pulled over by the police because they said it was getting loud, yes it was making a puphy noise lol,,So I replaced the muffler and tailpipe which included the resonator, now the resonator and muffler have Fell apart…I have the receipts from I guess I shouldn’t name Big box place, but it says unlimited warranty, can you explain unlimited warranty?
Would it be cheaper to transition to a manual rather than replace the transmission? Cause the one on my mustang is going out and I'm still making payments on that damn thing
Went this week to change oil and filter at the dealership. Last time I went there, they flagged my brakes for service. I drive like gramma and my other car had brake pads replaced twice in 150k miles, and this one has 30k miles! Yet, I was told brakes AND rotors had to be changed, a $700 service. I challenged this and asked to inspect the pads myself to approve the work or to take the risk, and called garbage materials used on this vehicle. Sure enough, they later came to me saying they had re-evaluated and everything is still in perfect condition, and apologized for the mixup: claimed they likely added someone’s else vehicle data on my account. Update: after well over a year, while doing tire rotation at 55k miles, I asked a status of the brakes and rotors. Neither needs to be changed.
Always easy to do brakes. Saved a small fortune to do them myself the last 40 years instead going to the shops. Bought all the tools needed on the first brake job I did. Still have them.
Same, I used to get the rotors turned. PITA. Rotors were cheap enough I'd just replace them. Then I stopped even replacing them and now do pad slaps. I have cars with over 200K on the original rotors and they are still within spec. Such a simple easy cheap job. This car he's working on definitely needs new rotors though. I've saved thousands upon thousands of $$ over the decades doing my own work. And the time saved and inconvenience saves of not being ripped off, and not having to take the cars to shops and waiting around or dropping them off. The ability to DIY is truly liberating.
@Mike Hudson oh yeah, agree, they do the full Monty to prevent comebacks and also to sell more parts. DIY means what is a $700 job and hours at the shop is for me, maybe $70 and two hours on a Saturday morning, and that includes playing with the dogs.
awesome video Scotty! My dad has taught me to take apart and lubricate my brakes every spring and autumn..! take calipers out, regrease them, grease the pads like you show in this video. I failed to do this one spring, and when i went to do them in the autumn, they were HARD AS HELL to take apart and service em... lesson learned! just takes a few hours on any given saturday morning, and makes all the diffeence in the world. Especially since i live in wesrern new york, with the snow n salt..! love your videos scotty! Keep up the great work that you do!
Hey Scotty, you were right on with the ignition. I was on the highway when the car just slowed down to about 30moh. Couldn’t go faster than 20, it ended up being the spark plug. Had lots of carbon on it. I changed the plug, coils and ended up putting some valve cleaner in it and now I’m getting about 32-33 mpg on highway on a 2017 CRV.
I’ve switched over to those pads on all my vehicles, and I absolutely love them! Those pads with the better rotors and I have no worries about my braking systems.
Well Scotty, with more than 50% life left on my squeaky pads, I finally splurged for the Akebono’s on all 4 corners. Did the rotors too even though they looked okey. You were right, the squealing went away and as a bonus, braking has improved. We’ll see how they are this time next year.
@@kartboarder22g17 I put them on both my vehicles. Thing that sucks is, they only make the pad (fronts) for my truck. Changing them this weekend. My maintenance log book shows; last change was back in 2017... 41,000 miles ago. My inner on both fronts still have a little over 1/4". On the outers they are less than 1/8". They stop good on a very busy highway during both rush hours during the week..
@@BumpNrun69 thanks I'm doing mine Thursday hope I bought the right pair. I'm at 72000 on oem pads and rotors. They are on the danger zone at this point.
I’ve been using them about 15 years on both of my E Classes and could not be happier. Just changed all 4 rotors last week on my GL550 and used Akebonos again, from the first drive I can tell the difference. It’s a much heavier car, time will tell but I’m sure they will handle good. I couldn’t find them for my wife’s Infiniti when I was doing her brakes last year, used Bosch QuietCast with brand new rotors again, they were ok first 6-7 months then she started to complain again. But on the other hand, I know those 2007-2011 era Infinities are known for the brake system issues.
I give Scotty so much credit spending his career working on cars in his driveway in the heat and weather and at his age. As a weekend DIYr it's hard enough just working on my own stuff
Neither did I expect it 🤣 lol, if you don't pump it you're in for a surprise and you end up in a ditch in your neighbors yard. Like Scotty what have you been doing 🤣
Another spot on video by this national treasure of a mechanic. I was told by two tranny shops i needed a new transmission because of the same symptoms in the first part of this video. On my third opinion obtained from a privete family owned transmission shop, he informed me he thought it was a coil pack problem. After his test drive he tested it with his diagnostic device and confirmed it....#4 cylinder misfire due to the coil pack. I replaced it and problem solved. A few months later, i noticed some slipping and definitely took to him. This time he informed me it wasn't the tranny, it was the torque converter...a much cheaper fix than a rebuilt tranny. I had him replace it. I guess the jest of my comment is... follow Scotty's advice. Have a good mechanic with tons of experience. Find one thats honest and truly relies on his knowledge, and establish a good relationship as a continued customer. Its literally priceless. Thank you Scotty!
This is a great video! Things I would suggest differently than what Scotty showed in this video (pretty sure I learned it from one of his older videos). Is to take the caliper completely off so that you can grease both sliding pins. Great video Scotty I always enjoy learning from you!
Never understand why people don't do this. It's like only replacing one caliper like the other one isn't in a near garbage condition He does it with wheel bearings too. You always replace em in pairs.
I used to do that too until I had one stuck so bad I had to make a puller to get it out and replace it with a new one. Now I take them both out every time and clean and lube them.
Only thing I would have done differently was try and get that bolt out so you can pull the slide pins, clean and grease them. I have seen too many as a DIY'er that are all seized up and do not slide. I understand it was not coming out easy but the floating caliper may not be functioning properly.
Hey Scotty - great advice. I drive a '96 Impala SS and a 2003 Corvette. I've been putting Akebono pads on my cars for years. No squeak and less brake dust on my chrome wheels. Years ago, I learned about these pads by going to the Corvette forums. I figured if the Corvette guys love them, I will too.
@@mistythomas1874 Nope. I bought it new and it now has 320K on the odometer. 2nd engine, 2nd transmission, and 2nd rear end. No more commuting, I work from home now. We just use the Impala for running the grandkids around. Otherwise, we use the Vette.
Hi Scotty, i normally sand by hand with sandpaper #80 the rotors to remove carefully the shine and have pads self-adapted to its new surface. This has worked very well and brake action is intact, in fact feels like has more adhesion when you brake. This is done in my Suzuki Grand Vitara every 6 - 8 months.
@justine5804 Yup old and new rotors, as long they are not scratched too deep (old) the mirror finish can be reduced. This must be done by hand since using anything more aggressive than that will damage the flat surface.
To each is their own but this is a complete waste of time and doesn’t help with anything stopping. You are taking off the bedding of the rotors and now you are trying to bed in used pads on a scuffed rotor surface. I assume you know you have to bed in the pads after you do this every time? Rotors are also cheap and time is valuable, replace the rotors every brake job
@@jhask64 Maybe he was just showing what tools regular people might have, but yea a c clamp or actual caliper piston compressing tool would be ideal and their pretty cheap and readily available
I took Scotty’s advice and used Akebono pads on my wife’s car about a year ago. They’re the best pads I’ve ever used. They have incredible stopping power and they’re ultra quite. Nice upgrade over OEM.
I use Akebono Pads on my 00 Formula. Best pads I ever used and I tested many different makes and modells. Thanks to Scotty by make Akebono more familiar!
wait wait hold on one second you use your brake pedal I only use that thing in emergency's normally my car comes to a stop fast enough if I just simply take my foot off the accelerator pedal
From Toronto. Canada says Hi Scotty and Canada misses you. Going to replace all four rotors and breaks on my 2008 Acura MDX still going thanks to your advice. Helping friends out as well spreading the knowledge and your channel. Going to save $1200 on the job. Thank you Scotty for giving it to us straight up.
Got about 82k miles out of Akebono front pads on a Prius. Installed with new rotors. However the originals were replaced at 143k. Granted the car is used for short commute and city Uber much more than when it was younger.
I found OEM do last the longest but you’re paying twice as much. If I didn’t get those, I’d get exactly what Scotty recommends. My Ford OEM were actually made by them.
Great video! Just a few weeks ago I took my 04 Impala to my mechanic to get everything that was wrong with it fixed. One of the items was to do my front pads and rotors. I had a check engine light on so he took most of the time working on that so he didn't have time to do the brakes. I made an appointment to have him do them a few days later, well on the way to work the next day my check engine light came on again and something inside the engine broke and seized up. I was sad about the car now being done for, but I was grateful that I didn't pay to have the brakes replaced!
I put duralast brakes on my Lexus. They made all kinds of noise. I should have taken your advice and gone with the Akebonos from the start. I switched the duralast with Akebono and they’re as quiet as can be. Very happy with them. And the crazy thing is the autozone pads were about the same price.
Watched one Scotty video today and I'm stopping before I get caught in the vortex and watch like an hours worth. I've been looking for that brake pad grease tip so thanks for that!
Most Ceramic pads I've used never squeaked. It's the semi-metalic ones you want to avoid if the sound bothers you. But regardless, always have the rotors turned (ground) or replace them whenever putting new pads on. That can also contribute to squeaking. In the past, I've always bought the mid to high range pads or shoes, and the cheaper rotors to balance things out. I wouldn't recommend skimping on brake pads. They usually aren't something you replace that often (usually every 3-5 years for most people) and the price difference over that period isn't huge and not worth the risk. Buy good quality pads even if it means spending another $50 for a pair.
Totally agree with you on the Akebono pads. I am a retired master tech and in my humble opinion,Akebono brakes are the best you can get. Love your channel Scotty. Keep up the good work.
I used to haul brake drums for Akebono Brakes out of W Columbia, SC to GM in St Louis. Good times! LOL helluva long week, and far from a light load, but I bought my house while doing so! 😂
Just replaced front and rear brake pads and rotors with Akebono pads and Brembo rotors on my Toyota Highlander. Best combination and now it stops absolutely phenomenal.
I got a pair of Akebono pads for my 8th Generation Accord 2.4. Been almost a year and they’re the best pair I’ve ever had. Not a squeak and hardly any fade despite the occasional spirited driving.
I was today-years-old when I realize I didn't need to remove both bolts from the brake pad holder. Genius! I don't know why something so simple eluded me all this time. And here I was trying to rest the thing on top of the thin metal shielding. Thanks for the insight!
I was at one of my local VW dealers just yesterday to pick up a part. They ignored me for a while, while I was waiting for someone to help me, a delivery guy from O'Reilly auto parts dropped off rotors, and pads. It made me think, is this authorized dealer using off brand parts, but charging OEM prices 🤔
As a 33 year ASE Master Tech, I have found that yes, Akebono pads are quiet but they have less stopping power that is noticeable even with brand new rotors. I use the highest grade factory pads bought from the dealer. They have great stopping power and are still quiet.
That explains why they are "EASY" on the rotors as Scotty says, because they don't bite as hard as other brands. I'm shocked that Scotty didn't recommend a resurface on that beat up rotor?!
It's common knowledge that semi-metallic brakes bite harder than ceramic. That's part of the tradeoff: semi-metallics bite harder but create a lot of dust. Ceramics don't have the initial bite that the semi-metallics do but create way less dust.
So it is always better to use Factory OEM genuine? OEM $130 vs Aftermarket $30 for fromt and rear set 2020 Sienna. Are Detroit brakes good for cheaper?
Toyota's genuine brakepads for the Highlander are semi metallic and they brake much better in cold weather than Akebono Ceramic. Ceramic should not be recommended for cold climates.
Akebonos are very good for cold weather braking, but like all factory pads, they sacrifice hot temp bite for that extra hard, cold bite. The best cold bite pads, gas out much past 500F and have GF or HG friction ratings. If it has a GG or FG rating, it's an all around pad, will have decent cold bite and it might last until 600-700F. The best street racing pads get their bite at around 100F-150F, with O.K. bite at 50F-70F and max out around 850F. They usually carry a GH or HH friction rating. These pads are better for high speed driving, but usually need higher temp brake fluid and steel braided lines, to withstand the extra heat. Street race pads will suck at freezing temperatures, so keep that in mind, for emergency stops.
I use the Akebono pads on my CLS55 AMG with aftermarket rotors. The braking is excellent, quiet, smooth with great initial bite. The best part is the dust is none existent, not black all over my wheels. I’ll buy these forever if I can. I wish they made these pads for my old Bimmer but they don’t 😢
My absolute favorite pads all things considered are Pagid. They may squeak a little at first but it goes away. They have superior initial bite and resist overheating
Whenever I've used ceramics there was a significant loss of gripping power compared to standard semi-metallic pads. I don't doubt they last longer - they don't provide enough friction for anything to wear off of them.
My wife's Edge consistently warps the rotors making the car shutter when braking. This time it seems almost dangerous at high speeds. I'm hoping the Akebono pads will help with this next time I change the rotors.
I only run factory pads from the dealer. There are so many different manufacturers making replacements with 50 different compound blends. The cars engineers know the weight of your vehicle, size of your tire, rotor size, caliber pressure, etc they have engineered the factory pad to work the very best for that application, anything else may work but not be perfect
@@rhoodj I figured this out about 20 years ago when I put a set of raybestos on my Camaro. They felt fine under normal driving, then about a couple weeks later I had to panic stop on the freeway and they faded so bad. The fade literally made them stop working. It was so bad and scared me so much that the next day I was at the dealership getting factory ones that worked perfect all the time. I have never ran parts store pads again on anything, and never will. It’s worth the extra $20 for the right pads
Haha, I remember the days when I thought doing brakes ment take the caliper off the car, put them in with the caliper off, then out the while caliper back on & go crazy dealing with bleeding the brakes. So much easer just taking the slide pins off (plus you can lube them).
Hello Mr. Scotty: Yes Scotty you are 100 % correct. I took your advice this summer & purchased the Akibono brake pads for my Subaru front and back. To get these pads it took me 2 weeks but sir they are terrific. Thank you again, TMP from N.J.
Akebono was the OE brake pad supplier for my 14 Mitsubishi Lancer, so that is what I used to replace the original pads. Going to see if they make pads for my 4Runner too.
Scotty can be full of it sometimes but he's right about the Akebono pads...I've used them a number of times and have gotten really good service out of them. American-made as well!
You can dramatically reduce brake noise by Spraying Brake Quite by Permatex on the backs of the pads prior to installation...Akebono makes good pads, but I have seen on some models the pads are up to 2mm narrower. This will in this case develop a rim on the outer rim of the rotors. I contacted them and they said they will come close but didn't make the exact OEM size for every application.
2 years ago, he suggested those pads I have been using them ever since! Daily deliveries (stop and go for 80-100 miles per day) I was changing mine every 6 months: not talking the “cheap” ones but like moog delco etc excellent products but not for me and how I make a living. Now I get 10/12 months for the front and twice that for the rear. Thank you Scotty you have saved me a lot of money over the years 🤙🏽
The squeaks were from all the grooves in the rotor. You could have easily knock down the grooves with a grinder -- just spin the wheel as you do it and it will simulate being on a lathe and keep everything uniform.
EBC Yellowstuff front, Redstuff rear, slotted factory rotors front and Liqui Moly DOT 5.1 fluid, in my 2018 Mazda 3 Grand Touring. I need it. I drive like a demon.
what I usually do is to buy the original pads. I never have noise problems at all and they last longer than the off the market ones, and you'll be surprised that they are not that expensive
Scotty, just bought akedono pads for my 13 Explorer before seeing this. I raised my fist in the air in celebration when you showed they were akebono. Replacing semi metallic OEM’s and I burned up the pads and warped a rotor on some cheaper ceramics. Hopefully police high carbon rotor and akebono performance street pads will do the trick. I appreciate your knowledge thanks for doing this.
Scotty, I have always been told not to push the caliper brake fluid back into the ABS module as it will push all the contaminants that have settled into the calipers into something with very precise tolerances; that I should open the bleed valve a couple turns (so there is more resistance going back into the module than the valve), attach a hose, and remove the old brake fluid. What it your take on this? I'll assume you bled the brakes when you first put the crappy pads in and don't expect much contamination or water but I'd like to hear your opinion on this anyway.
I used Akebono pads on my Acura RDX along with drilled and slotted rotors and they are the most noisy pads I've ever heard. They have squeaked and grind since I first installed them. Glazed over since day one.
@@flute136 Yes, slotted rotors make sense for racing. They are supposed to swipe the pads and evacuate gas and dust. This really makes sense with metallic pads. On a daily driver they are of questionable utility. I have used them. They seem to work, but they can be expensive. ATE used to make them for my 96 Passat TDI. Those were top notch.
@@ivermec-tin666 i have b7 Passat im looking to do a near complete upgrade but dont know what im gonna do. I want red calipers so i either paint em myself(too hard for me idk) or buy a complete package but thats hard to find for my model. I was thinking maybe buy a bunch of individual parts if iboainted calipers myself. Slotted rotors look cool ill want that idc about the higher wear if it means car drives way better. Maybe redstuff or these ceramic akebono because i want to eliminate dust as much as possible over these super cheap dealer installed pads thst dirty wheel in 2-3 days visibly.
@@flute136 You can paint the calipers yourself with high temp paint. No one is ever going to see them up close, but you and your mechanic. Or, you could get them powder coated. I had a former boss who had his entire off road rig powder coated. It's just money, I guess.
I put ceramic brake pads on my 84 bronco 2 2 years ago and they are still good and in that 2 years ive put over 75,000 miles on them brake pads and they are lifetime ceramic brake pads i got at O'Reilly's for 60 bucks they are the best pads ive ever have had and they are quite and stop me good, i will never go back to semi metallic pads they don't last and they make a mess on nice rims
@@nicholasgranat2999 Rotors have a minimum thickness specification. They may not be warped, but if they have worn below the min thickness spec, they should be replaced.
Grooved rotors don't prevent you from or slow your stopping. Just make sure thickness of rotor is to spec... Of slightly warped, turn them on lathe or better yet just drive with them. Badly warped rotors need to be replaced. A little pulse is fine and sometimes autocorrects, as your pads do the job of a lathe. Garages and oil change places today recommend a lot of things that you don't need. Proven fact. They make a fortune this way. Some places recommend tranny or brake fluid replacement when you don't need it, and don't even touch the stuff (yet they charge you a lot for doing NOTHING!). Lots of stings out there showing this.
I got no hate on Scotty he's quite entertaining and he's very knowledgeable but I've seen several brake videos and I'm completely astounded as a 40 year veteran mechanic that worked in a brake shop for decades and have done thousands of brake jobs there are so many things that he does not do or does incorrectly it is mind blowing.
I put Akebono pads in my Landrover Discovery D4 a few years ago because of Scotty's recommendation and some reading. Best pads i have ever used and i have spent alot of time in motorspot on tracks. They are not track pads but i know but they are super smooth and progresive with no dust. Great pads.
Hey Scotty. I listened to you! Bought OEM rotors for my 2016 Colorado Z71and akebono pads front and rear Everything from Rockauto. Did all the brake job myself and paid my mechanic to do the brake fluid change! Total for the brake job 603 bucks, I can't even begin to imagine the charge if I had not done it myself but I'm betting I saved 500 in labor, specially where I live.
A lot of BMW models use semi-metallic pads as OEM. Where many manufacturers use a ceramic pad as OEM. Semi-metallic can offer greater stopping power and less brake fade if you are driving extremely hard with lots of heavy brake use, like track or fast “canyon” driving. For normal daily driving not usually an issue. Akebono’s are a ceramic pad, which creates a lot less dust. They are well engineered, and can offer very good performance, plenty good for normal use where most won’t notice any difference.
Once or twice a year you should always check your brakes clean them around the rotors and the calipers. Take your push pins out of your calipers and grease them. Wire brush and clean rotors and calipers and grease back of pads and shims. Your brakes will feel a hell of a lot better and last longer and stop great.
I have done brake pads and rotors/drums probably a dozen times in my life on tractors, cars, trucks, even familiar with brakes on a Cessna 182, and I have never understood rotors. Two days after replacing rotors and pads, the rotors look like the old ones I threw in the scrap pile. They have grooves, rust , and usually aren't warped. I suppose if I put a caliper on it I might see a difference but they just look grooved and shiny to me every time.
Brake Pads don't always snap right in. You often have to wire brush, sand or even file the rust off the caliper bracket. Sometimes you even have to take a little off the brake pad. If you have to take more than the paint or a stamping created seam, than you haven't cleaned the rust off well enough.
The auto zone elite brake pad I have been extremely impressed with their performance. You get what you pay for yes they are their most expensive but wow what a difference much better than OEM
Any high quality ceramic pad will work, every manufacturer makes them. Also, I never grease the ears, the pads should slide freely in there and if you grease the ears, they will pick up all sorts of brake dust and end up binding. A little grease under the hardware is fine. I would also prefer that Scotty relube both slide pins. Your only replacing pads every 50K miles, it's not too much to ask to lube the slide pins.
What's your opinion on seasoning the new rotors and brake pads by driving up to 25mph and braking hard to 10mph about 5 times, then repeat at 35mph down to 5mph 5 more times?
I got this same set of front pads for 35 and a set of rear pads for 25 for my Explorer. Rock Auto. Best prices I have ever seen. Also got Napa Proformer quick struts from them for 30 bucks each. Napa had them for 160 each. Same thing with wix oil filters. Got a bunch for around 3 bucks a piece.
Had Akenonos on my Mercedes and they just squeaked to much, they were ceramic. Switched to Hella Pagid Semi Metallic pads and not only do they grab better when cold and hot, but the squeak is gone. Good video Scotty, keep it up.
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3:52 no smile from toby? 😆 🤣 😂
Hey Scotty, I’ve been listening to you for a long time, I am a 20 year mechanic in a shop, I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla that has never seen a garage,, but my question is actually about my Dodge Caravan with 230,000 miles, I’ve had for four years, and had 195,000 miles when I got it,,I got pulled over by the police because they said it was getting loud, yes it was making a puphy noise lol,,So I replaced the muffler and tailpipe which included the resonator, now the resonator and muffler have Fell apart…I have the receipts from I guess I shouldn’t name Big box place, but it says unlimited warranty, can you explain unlimited warranty?
Would it be cheaper to transition to a manual rather than replace the transmission? Cause the one on my mustang is going out and I'm still making payments on that damn thing
Scotty there's 150000 millage on my nissan altima 2008 is time to change fuel filter?
So we ask our mechanic to use these??
Went this week to change oil and filter at the dealership. Last time I went there, they flagged my brakes for service. I drive like gramma and my other car had brake pads replaced twice in 150k miles, and this one has 30k miles! Yet, I was told brakes AND rotors had to be changed, a $700 service. I challenged this and asked to inspect the pads myself to approve the work or to take the risk, and called garbage materials used on this vehicle. Sure enough, they later came to me saying they had re-evaluated and everything is still in perfect condition, and apologized for the mixup: claimed they likely added someone’s else vehicle data on my account.
Update: after well over a year, while doing tire rotation at 55k miles, I asked a status of the brakes and rotors. Neither needs to be changed.
You didn't go to a dealership.
You went to a stealership.
Oh God !
@@Winterstick549 what’s the difference?
Women don't last long at Dealers. More honest and ethical I suppose.
@@Winterstick549 same thing!
Always easy to do brakes. Saved a small fortune to do them myself the last 40 years instead going to the shops. Bought all the tools needed on the first brake job I did. Still have them.
And so much easier to change than the older drum brakes.
Actually any ceramic is better but yes, he is right about that brand
Same, I used to get the rotors turned. PITA. Rotors were cheap enough I'd just replace them. Then I stopped even replacing them and now do pad slaps. I have cars with over 200K on the original rotors and they are still within spec. Such a simple easy cheap job. This car he's working on definitely needs new rotors though. I've saved thousands upon thousands of $$ over the decades doing my own work. And the time saved and inconvenience saves of not being ripped off, and not having to take the cars to shops and waiting around or dropping them off. The ability to DIY is truly liberating.
@Mike Hudson oh yeah, agree, they do the full Monty to prevent comebacks and also to sell more parts. DIY means what is a $700 job and hours at the shop is for me, maybe $70 and two hours on a Saturday morning, and that includes playing with the dogs.
@@johnchildress6717 im young and i got to experience the horror of having to put those tensioner springs back in place.
For compressing Brake Pistons. I found C-clamps work a charm if you have one big enough
awesome video Scotty! My dad has taught me to take apart and lubricate my brakes every spring and autumn..! take calipers out, regrease them, grease the pads like you show in this video. I failed to do this one spring, and when i went to do them in the autumn, they were HARD AS HELL to take apart and service em... lesson learned! just takes a few hours on any given saturday morning, and makes all the diffeence in the world. Especially since i live in wesrern new york, with the snow n salt..! love your videos scotty! Keep up the great work that you do!
Hey Scotty, you were right on with the ignition. I was on the highway when the car just slowed down to about 30moh. Couldn’t go faster than 20, it ended up being the spark plug. Had lots of carbon on it. I changed the plug, coils and ended up putting some valve cleaner in it and now I’m getting about 32-33 mpg on highway on a 2017 CRV.
Ive used the old brake pad and a c clamp to compress the piston. Using a pair of pliers can cause the piston to retract crooked and cause it to fail!
pep boys and the dealer wanted close to $1400 for changing the front and rear rotors and pads on my 2001 Town & Country. Did them myself for $300.
Used pep boys to get brakes and rotors done. I regret it. Squeaks like no other.
I wouldn't trust "pep boys" to put gas in my tank.
Absolute criminals
They’re scammers
I’ve switched over to those pads on all my vehicles, and I absolutely love them!
Those pads with the better rotors and I have no worries about my braking systems.
I think my Ford OEM pads were made by them.
Because of Scotty I started doing all work that I could possibly do to my vehicle myself thank you Scotty
Well Scotty, with more than 50% life left on my squeaky pads, I finally splurged for the Akebono’s on all 4 corners. Did the rotors too even though they looked okey. You were right, the squealing went away and as a bonus, braking has improved. We’ll see how they are this time next year.
update? I'm thinking about trying the akas finally?
Going to replace my front and rear disc brakes with Ackebono and see how it compares to top-of-the-line ceramics.
@@kartboarder22g17 I put them on both my vehicles. Thing that sucks is, they only make the pad (fronts) for my truck. Changing them this weekend. My maintenance log book shows; last change was back in 2017... 41,000 miles ago. My inner on both fronts still have a little over 1/4". On the outers they are less than 1/8". They stop good on a very busy highway during both rush hours during the week..
@@BumpNrun69 thanks I'm doing mine Thursday hope I bought the right pair. I'm at 72000 on oem pads and rotors. They are on the danger zone at this point.
I’ve been using them about 15 years on both of my E Classes and could not be happier. Just changed all 4 rotors last week on my GL550 and used Akebonos again, from the first drive I can tell the difference.
It’s a much heavier car, time will tell but I’m sure they will handle good.
I couldn’t find them for my wife’s Infiniti when I was doing her brakes last year, used Bosch QuietCast with brand new rotors again, they were ok first 6-7 months then she started to complain again. But on the other hand, I know those 2007-2011 era Infinities are known for the brake system issues.
This is really how simple it is to change brake pads!? 45 year old guy and I did not know this. Thank you Mr. Kilmer.
Put anti squeal on metal side of pads.
When i try it’s a 2 day job if I’m lucky
You tube is not a representation of the real thing
I give Scotty so much credit spending his career working on cars in his driveway in the heat and weather and at his age. As a weekend DIYr it's hard enough just working on my own stuff
yeh idk why he doesnt have a small garage with a lift...i mean he has the money but just cheap af
So pump it to make it hard? That's a lesson I didn't expect from Scotty today
Yes, that's what HE said...
Insert Toby Maguire pic
Neither did I expect it 🤣 lol, if you don't pump it you're in for a surprise and you end up in a ditch in your neighbors yard. Like Scotty what have you been doing 🤣
@@jaydubb2092 I was disappointed Scotty didn't meme it up per usual. hah
Pump it good until it is real hard and do it again
Another spot on video by this national treasure of a mechanic. I was told by two tranny shops i needed a new transmission because of the same symptoms in the first part of this video. On my third opinion obtained from a privete family owned transmission shop, he informed me he thought it was a coil pack problem. After his test drive he tested it with his diagnostic device and confirmed it....#4 cylinder misfire due to the coil pack. I replaced it and problem solved. A few months later, i noticed some slipping and definitely took to him. This time he informed me it wasn't the tranny, it was the torque converter...a much cheaper fix than a rebuilt tranny. I had him replace it. I guess the jest of my comment is... follow Scotty's advice. Have a good mechanic with tons of experience. Find one thats honest and truly relies on his knowledge, and establish a good relationship as a continued customer. Its literally priceless. Thank you Scotty!
This is a great video! Things I would suggest differently than what Scotty showed in this video (pretty sure I learned it from one of his older videos). Is to take the caliper completely off so that you can grease both sliding pins. Great video Scotty I always enjoy learning from you!
Never understand why people don't do this. It's like only replacing one caliper like the other one isn't in a near garbage condition
He does it with wheel bearings too. You always replace em in pairs.
I love the one bolt then swing the caliper method. I always took both off and removed the whole caliper. Genius sir.
It's better to remove both if you want to inspect and lube the guide pins.
Always remove both.
Noobs
These are all good points 😂
I used to do that too until I had one stuck so bad I had to make a puller to get it out and replace it with a new one. Now I take them both out every time and clean and lube them.
Only thing I would have done differently was try and get that bolt out so you can pull the slide pins, clean and grease them. I have seen too many as a DIY'er that are all seized up and do not slide. I understand it was not coming out easy but the floating caliper may not be functioning properly.
also the slide pins don't need to be super tight. No cheater bar needed. Only need to be 20/25 pounds /ft (30+ NM)
Hey Scotty - great advice. I drive a '96 Impala SS and a 2003 Corvette. I've been putting Akebono pads on my cars for years. No squeak and less brake dust on my chrome wheels. Years ago, I learned about these pads by going to the Corvette forums. I figured if the Corvette guys love them, I will too.
Love a 96 SS 🔥
@@Spacesprocketz Me too! My Impala is a garage queen now. We only use it to transport grandkids.
Would you ever sell the 96
@@mistythomas1874 Nope. I bought it new and it now has 320K on the odometer. 2nd engine, 2nd transmission, and 2nd rear end. No more commuting, I work from home now. We just use the Impala for running the grandkids around. Otherwise, we use the Vette.
Scotty, you the man, you cut out the fluff and just get to the point!
What other way is there?
Thank you for showing me the caliper top trick, me n my dad finished out break pads cuz of that
Hi Scotty, i normally sand by hand with sandpaper #80 the rotors to remove carefully the shine and have pads self-adapted to its new surface. This has worked very well and brake action is intact, in fact feels like has more adhesion when you brake. This is done in my Suzuki Grand Vitara every 6 - 8 months.
Did you mean sand the old rotors? Or the new rotors?
@justine5804 Yup old and new rotors, as long they are not scratched too deep (old) the mirror finish can be reduced. This must be done by hand since using anything more aggressive than that will damage the flat surface.
Wow, I’ve never considered sanding the rotors by hand but I suppose this is a very fine idea if they’re still in spec!!
i use a long flat grinding stone. like used for sharpening long knives. That way they are more likely to be flat, level, plane, etc.
To each is their own but this is a complete waste of time and doesn’t help with anything stopping. You are taking off the bedding of the rotors and now you are trying to bed in used pads on a scuffed rotor surface. I assume you know you have to bed in the pads after you do this every time? Rotors are also cheap and time is valuable, replace the rotors every brake job
Just installed them on a Toyota Rav 4 per your recommendation. Love them. The wheels stay clean just like you said Scotty. Your that man !
Don't squeeze the pots like this. You may ruin the rubber. Keep the old pad in and squeeze it like that.
I’d think Scotty would know that….but
@@jhask64 Maybe he was just showing what tools regular people might have, but yea a c clamp or actual caliper piston compressing tool would be ideal and their pretty cheap and readily available
I took Scotty’s advice and used Akebono pads on my wife’s car about a year ago. They’re the best pads I’ve ever used. They have incredible stopping power and they’re ultra quite. Nice upgrade over OEM.
So, they are quiet?
What about that dust?
They're oem on some Hondas. Used em on a civic and accord
@@06Crf250rider Akebono calipers and pads come oem on some Lexus models
Akebono are OEM...just depends what part of the World you live in
My 2018 Chevy Colorado was fitted from the factory with Akebono pads. Many on the Colorado Forum report 60-80 k or more miles of pad life .
I have a 2014 Silverado and got 123,000 miles on the factory front pads and 112,000 miles on the rear pads..
I have a 2018 cruze 90,000 miles just had a brake inspection. Still have 50% left.
As a newspaper delivery driver that would be amazing
I use Akebono Pads on my 00 Formula. Best pads I ever used and I tested many different makes and modells. Thanks to Scotty by make Akebono more familiar!
wait wait hold on one second you use your brake pedal I only use that thing in emergency's normally my car comes to a stop fast enough if I just simply take my foot off the accelerator pedal
so what who cares!
@@steve75112 ssshhhhhh
OEM for Acura MDX.
Akebono is an OEM product for decades for most auto makers , only in recent years have they been available in the aftermarket
I have taken Scotty’s advice and have been using Akebono brake pads for about 8 years. I haven’t heard squeaking or squealing since 😊
From Toronto. Canada says Hi Scotty and Canada misses you. Going to replace all four rotors and breaks on my 2008 Acura MDX still going thanks to your advice. Helping friends out as well spreading the knowledge and your channel. Going to save $1200 on the job. Thank you Scotty for giving it to us straight up.
Got about 82k miles out of Akebono front pads on a Prius. Installed with new rotors. However the originals were replaced at 143k. Granted the car is used for short commute and city Uber much more than when it was younger.
I found OEM do last the longest but you’re paying twice as much. If I didn’t get those, I’d get exactly what Scotty recommends. My Ford OEM were actually made by them.
That trick with one bult on the caliper...priceless! I am old school and took the damn thing off and hung on the strut's coil...never again, thanks!
They're dumping the car, otherwise you'd be turning or replacing the rotor.
Akebono is usually available through RockAuto for most cars. Scotty is right; they’re great pads at a decent price!
So we ask our mechanic to get them?
@@sl4983 Ask him to get them. NAPA also stocks them for most vehicles.
Great video! Just a few weeks ago I took my 04 Impala to my mechanic to get everything that was wrong with it fixed. One of the items was to do my front pads and rotors. I had a check engine light on so he took most of the time working on that so he didn't have time to do the brakes. I made an appointment to have him do them a few days later, well on the way to work the next day my check engine light came on again and something inside the engine broke and seized up. I was sad about the car now being done for, but I was grateful that I didn't pay to have the brakes replaced!
I put duralast brakes on my Lexus. They made all kinds of noise. I should have taken your advice and gone with the Akebonos from the start. I switched the duralast with Akebono and they’re as quiet as can be. Very happy with them. And the crazy thing is the autozone pads were about the same price.
Watched one Scotty video today and I'm stopping before I get caught in the vortex and watch like an hours worth. I've been looking for that brake pad grease tip so thanks for that!
Most Ceramic pads I've used never squeaked. It's the semi-metalic ones you want to avoid if the sound bothers you. But regardless, always have the rotors turned (ground) or replace them whenever putting new pads on. That can also contribute to squeaking. In the past, I've always bought the mid to high range pads or shoes, and the cheaper rotors to balance things out. I wouldn't recommend skimping on brake pads. They usually aren't something you replace that often (usually every 3-5 years for most people) and the price difference over that period isn't huge and not worth the risk. Buy good quality pads even if it means spending another $50 for a pair.
Semi metallic are noisy but the grip they have on the rotor is extremely useful for some purposes and parts of the country with steep road gradients.
Can you ground rotors with sand paper using your hands?
Totally agree with you on the Akebono pads. I am a retired master tech and in my humble opinion,Akebono brakes are the best you can get. Love your channel Scotty. Keep up the good work.
All the brake pads I've ever seen have squeaker tabs indicators to let you know that the pads are getting low.
We need a Scotty in every neighborhood
nope! just do them yourself! scotty charges! lol
@@dragonfly9415 not me lol I like to drive safe 🤣
I used to haul brake drums for Akebono Brakes out of W Columbia, SC to GM in St Louis. Good times! LOL helluva long week, and far from a light load, but I bought my house while doing so! 😂
Hi Tim - I visited that college town. And Columbia has the worst / crazy car drivers I've ever seen. But that was in 2009
Just replaced front and rear brake pads and rotors with Akebono pads and Brembo rotors on my Toyota Highlander. Best combination and now it stops absolutely phenomenal.
Do you have to torque the caliper bolts to a specific value or just any tightness? Same with the lug nuts?
@@Serids-z1c 77 foot pounds on the Caliper Bracket Bolts. 25 foot pounds on the Caliper Bolts. 76 foot pounds on the lug nuts.
@@thegentleman90 I just dont see Scotty doing that so im wondering if it's necessary, maybe he can tell by feel?
@@Serids-z1c These torque specs are per Toyota.
@@thegentleman90 I just dont see Scotty torquing at all so im wondering if it's necessary, maybe he can tell by feel?
I got a pair of Akebono pads for my 8th Generation Accord 2.4. Been almost a year and they’re the best pair I’ve ever had. Not a squeak and hardly any fade despite the occasional spirited driving.
I was today-years-old when I realize I didn't need to remove both bolts from the brake pad holder. Genius! I don't know why something so simple eluded me all this time. And here I was trying to rest the thing on top of the thin metal shielding. Thanks for the insight!
🙄
What is the average life of a Toyota rotor? Thanks for the great video Scotty. LOVE. PEACE. God Bless
I use those breaks pads as well. Very good pads.
P.S. Scotty worked on my car twice when he lived down in Houston. Very nice guy.
I was at one of my local VW dealers just yesterday to pick up a part. They ignored me for a while, while I was waiting for someone to help me, a delivery guy from O'Reilly auto parts dropped off rotors, and pads. It made me think, is this authorized dealer using off brand parts, but charging OEM prices 🤔
As a 33 year ASE Master Tech, I have found that yes, Akebono pads are quiet but they have less stopping power that is noticeable even with brand new rotors. I use the highest grade factory pads bought from the dealer. They have great stopping power and are still quiet.
have to agree, I put a set on my Toyota with new rotors and felt like they had no bite....after a few months went and got OEM and stopped much better.
That explains why they are "EASY" on the rotors as Scotty says, because they don't bite as hard as other brands. I'm shocked that Scotty didn't recommend a resurface on that beat up rotor?!
It's common knowledge that semi-metallic brakes bite harder than ceramic. That's part of the tradeoff: semi-metallics bite harder but create a lot of dust. Ceramics don't have the initial bite that the semi-metallics do but create way less dust.
Thank you for this information. That was my question. Stopping is more important to me
So it is always better to use Factory OEM genuine? OEM $130 vs Aftermarket $30 for fromt and rear set 2020 Sienna. Are Detroit brakes good for cheaper?
Toyota's genuine brakepads for the Highlander are semi metallic and they brake much better in cold weather than Akebono Ceramic. Ceramic should not be recommended for cold climates.
Akebonos are very good for cold weather braking, but like all factory pads, they sacrifice hot temp bite for that extra hard, cold bite. The best cold bite pads, gas out much past 500F and have GF or HG friction ratings. If it has a GG or FG rating, it's an all around pad, will have decent cold bite and it might last until 600-700F. The best street racing pads get their bite at around 100F-150F, with O.K. bite at 50F-70F and max out around 850F. They usually carry a GH or HH friction rating. These pads are better for high speed driving, but usually need higher temp brake fluid and steel braided lines, to withstand the extra heat. Street race pads will suck at freezing temperatures, so keep that in mind, for emergency stops.
Hey scotty I was watching flintstone and fred used feet to step would this be helpful to use today thanks
I use the Akebono pads on my CLS55 AMG with aftermarket rotors. The braking is excellent, quiet, smooth with great initial bite. The best part is the dust is none existent, not black all over my wheels. I’ll buy these forever if I can. I wish they made these pads for my old Bimmer but they don’t 😢
Bimmer use ATE 😁
My absolute favorite pads all things considered are Pagid. They may squeak a little at first but it goes away. They have superior initial bite and resist overheating
This is the best disk brake tutorial I've ever seen.
Have you ever heard of youtube?
@@calholli
Gee, no.
What's TH-cam?
Geeze.
@@Winterstick549 It's a site that has disk brake tutorials... a lot of them; like millions of them.
@@calholli
No kidding.
Whenever I've used ceramics there was a significant loss of gripping power compared to standard semi-metallic pads. I don't doubt they last longer - they don't provide enough friction for anything to wear off of them.
You are right. Ceramic brake pads has not a great initicial bite breaking.
Only when new during the first 500 miles or 1000 km.
My wife's Edge consistently warps the rotors making the car shutter when braking. This time it seems almost dangerous at high speeds. I'm hoping the Akebono pads will help with this next time I change the rotors.
I only run factory pads from the dealer. There are so many different manufacturers making replacements with 50 different compound blends. The cars engineers know the weight of your vehicle, size of your tire, rotor size, caliber pressure, etc they have engineered the factory pad to work the very best for that application, anything else may work but not be perfect
This is a good point. Aftermarket brakes pads are so cheaper though...😮😢
@@rhoodj I figured this out about 20 years ago when I put a set of raybestos on my Camaro. They felt fine under normal driving, then about a couple weeks later I had to panic stop on the freeway and they faded so bad. The fade literally made them stop working. It was so bad and scared me so much that the next day I was at the dealership getting factory ones that worked perfect all the time. I have never ran parts store pads again on anything, and never will. It’s worth the extra $20 for the right pads
Haha, I remember the days when I thought doing brakes ment take the caliper off the car, put them in with the caliper off, then out the while caliper back on & go crazy dealing with bleeding the brakes. So much easer just taking the slide pins off (plus you can lube them).
Hello Mr. Scotty: Yes Scotty you are 100 % correct. I took your advice this summer & purchased the Akibono brake pads for my Subaru front and back. To get these pads it took me 2 weeks but sir they are terrific. Thank you again, TMP from N.J.
Akebono was the OE brake pad supplier for my 14 Mitsubishi Lancer, so that is what I used to replace the original pads. Going to see if they make pads for my 4Runner too.
Scotty can be full of it sometimes but he's right about the Akebono pads...I've used them a number of times and have gotten really good service out of them. American-made as well!
Can't find 'em here in the UK 🧐
@Rob Can't fin em here in Japan either! Lol!
@@mrgurulittle7000 seriously?
@Rob I'm sure they can be imported. Though Japan has some really good break pads that are actually made in Japan.
@@mrgurulittle7000 I couldn't even find any listings....
EBC pads are very good been using them for years they have the highest rated friction material
I use Akebono Pads (by Scottys advice) on my 97 Camry (replaced the rotors (didnt really need to)
Yes , excellent pads.
What rotor brand do you like?
@@wolfeadventures Raybestos or Remy Gold... dont buy cheap rotors
@@chrispaul1117is Raybestos good rotor?
@@June0696 Yes they are good rotors.
You can dramatically reduce brake noise by Spraying Brake Quite by Permatex on the backs of the pads prior to installation...Akebono makes good pads, but I have seen on some models the pads are up to 2mm narrower. This will in this case develop a rim on the outer rim of the rotors. I contacted them and they said they will come close but didn't make the exact OEM size for every application.
Ceramic pads all the way, semi metallic don’t like it they always sound like they’re rubbing. Love your channel Scotty
2 years ago, he suggested those pads I have been using them ever since!
Daily deliveries (stop and go for 80-100 miles per day) I was changing mine every 6 months: not talking the “cheap” ones but like moog delco etc excellent products but not for me and how I make a living. Now I get 10/12 months for the front and twice that for the rear. Thank you Scotty you have saved me a lot of money over the years 🤙🏽
Scotty doing what he does best.
This is the Only important Car Channel🎉
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
I use Bosch brake pads... they also come with new anti vibration brackets to replace the old ones. They work great for me and don't squeak!
me too Bosch is good n don't cost that much
The squeaks were from all the grooves in the rotor. You could have easily knock down the grooves with a grinder -- just spin the wheel as you do it and it will simulate being on a lathe and keep everything uniform.
EBC Yellowstuff front, Redstuff rear, slotted factory rotors front and Liqui Moly DOT 5.1 fluid, in my 2018 Mazda 3 Grand Touring. I need it. I drive like a demon.
what I usually do is to buy the original pads. I never have noise problems at all and they last longer than the off the market ones, and you'll be surprised that they are not that expensive
where from? :)
Scotty, just bought akedono pads for my 13 Explorer before seeing this. I raised my fist in the air in celebration when you showed they were akebono. Replacing semi metallic OEM’s and I burned up the pads and warped a rotor on some cheaper ceramics. Hopefully police high carbon rotor and akebono performance street pads will do the trick. I appreciate your knowledge thanks for doing this.
Scotty, I have always been told not to push the caliper brake fluid back into the ABS module as it will push all the contaminants that have settled into the calipers into something with very precise tolerances; that I should open the bleed valve a couple turns (so there is more resistance going back into the module than the valve), attach a hose, and remove the old brake fluid.
What it your take on this? I'll assume you bled the brakes when you first put the crappy pads in and don't expect much contamination or water but I'd like to hear your opinion on this anyway.
All the solenoid valves inside modern ABS units have filters on them. Likely would be able to survive the contamination.
Took your advice Scotty got those Acca Bono breaks for my 2015 Toyota Highlander and replace the rotors to seems to work flawless, thank you
I use copper grease to get rid of the squeaky noise
One of the few things you've said I agree with. Akebono makes pads for several auto manufacturers and they're damn good pads.
I used Akebono pads on my Acura RDX along with drilled and slotted rotors and they are the most noisy pads I've ever heard. They have squeaked and grind since I first installed them. Glazed over since day one.
I don't see any reason to pair drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
@@ivermec-tin666 for low dust but his issues are probably the drilled. Drilled are mot really necessary slotted is good enough for track.
@@flute136 Yes, slotted rotors make sense for racing. They are supposed to swipe the pads and evacuate gas and dust. This really makes sense with metallic pads. On a daily driver they are of questionable utility. I have used them. They seem to work, but they can be expensive. ATE used to make them for my 96 Passat TDI. Those were top notch.
@@ivermec-tin666 i have b7 Passat im looking to do a near complete upgrade but dont know what im gonna do. I want red calipers so i either paint em myself(too hard for me idk) or buy a complete package but thats hard to find for my model. I was thinking maybe buy a bunch of individual parts if iboainted calipers myself. Slotted rotors look cool ill want that idc about the higher wear if it means car drives way better. Maybe redstuff or these ceramic akebono because i want to eliminate dust as much as possible over these super cheap dealer installed pads thst dirty wheel in 2-3 days visibly.
@@flute136 You can paint the calipers yourself with high temp paint. No one is ever going to see them up close, but you and your mechanic. Or, you could get them powder coated. I had a former boss who had his entire off road rig powder coated. It's just money, I guess.
I put ceramic brake pads on my 84 bronco 2 2 years ago and they are still good and in that 2 years ive put over 75,000 miles on them brake pads and they are lifetime ceramic brake pads i got at O'Reilly's for 60 bucks they are the best pads ive ever have had and they are quite and stop me good, i will never go back to semi metallic pads they don't last and they make a mess on nice rims
Those rotors should have been tossed. I sometimes put new pads on old rotors, but NOT when they are that grooved.
If they are not warped i dont change them!
@@nicholasgranat2999 Rotors have a minimum thickness specification. They may not be warped, but if they have worn below the min thickness spec, they should be replaced.
My breaks just started to grind. Gonna change the pads should I change the rotors too? They are no where ne’er how his are in the video.
Did any of you actually listen to the e? He said he's getting rid of the car soon. He just wanted to stop the squeaking.
Grooved rotors don't prevent you from or slow your stopping. Just make sure thickness of rotor is to spec... Of slightly warped, turn them on lathe or better yet just drive with them. Badly warped rotors need to be replaced. A little pulse is fine and sometimes autocorrects, as your pads do the job of a lathe.
Garages and oil change places today recommend a lot of things that you don't need. Proven fact. They make a fortune this way. Some places recommend tranny or brake fluid replacement when you don't need it, and don't even touch the stuff (yet they charge you a lot for doing NOTHING!). Lots of stings out there showing this.
I got no hate on Scotty he's quite entertaining and he's very knowledgeable but I've seen several brake videos and I'm completely astounded as a 40 year veteran mechanic that worked in a brake shop for decades and have done thousands of brake jobs there are so many things that he does not do or does incorrectly it is mind blowing.
Thanks Scotty for all your help 👍🇺🇸❤️
I put Akebono pads in my Landrover Discovery D4 a few years ago because of Scotty's recommendation and some reading. Best pads i have ever used and i have spent alot of time in motorspot on tracks. They are not track pads but i know but they are super smooth and progresive with no dust. Great pads.
I love when Scotty says junkyard and Chevrolet Dealership picture appears 😂
It was Fiat, not Chevy !!
@@toriless both trash🤡
Chevy was first, then he said junk yard again, and it was Fiat!
Scotty doesn’t like my Vega that has never been to a garage or had a computer hooked to it.
Hey Scotty. I listened to you! Bought OEM rotors for my 2016 Colorado Z71and akebono pads front and rear Everything from Rockauto. Did all the brake job myself and paid my mechanic to do the brake fluid change! Total for the brake job 603 bucks, I can't even begin to imagine the charge if I had not done it myself but I'm betting I saved 500 in labor, specially where I live.
Glad to see Scotty isn't the only one doing pads only I put on hundreds of sets of paths when the rotors were like this they are fine.
howard the rotors looked like they had grooves in them or was it just my eyes I would have a least resurviced them it there was enough service
@@joehyundaitech7961 Yep, rotors were toast.
I started using Akebono's on my Mini's cause the BMW pads are extremely dusty. Ake's are great, nice and clean.
A lot of BMW models use semi-metallic pads as OEM.
Where many manufacturers use a ceramic pad as OEM.
Semi-metallic can offer greater stopping power and less brake fade if you are driving extremely hard with lots of heavy brake use, like track or fast “canyon” driving.
For normal daily driving not usually an issue.
Akebono’s are a ceramic pad, which creates a lot less dust.
They are well engineered, and can offer very good performance, plenty good for normal use where most won’t notice any difference.
I like how everytime you say "junkyard" you show a picture of a Chevy dealer! Lol!
Once or twice a year you should always check your brakes clean them around the rotors and the calipers. Take your push pins out of your calipers and grease them. Wire brush and clean rotors and calipers and grease back of pads and shims. Your brakes will feel a hell of a lot better and last longer and stop great.
I like EBC breaks , the red stuff pads are good!
Big money though
*brakes
I have done brake pads and rotors/drums probably a dozen times in my life on tractors, cars, trucks, even familiar with brakes on a Cessna 182, and I have never understood rotors. Two days after replacing rotors and pads, the rotors look like the old ones I threw in the scrap pile. They have grooves, rust , and usually aren't warped. I suppose if I put a caliper on it I might see a difference but they just look grooved and shiny to me every time.
Pump it a couple times till it gets hard? ✅
Brake Pads don't always snap right in.
You often have to wire brush, sand or even file the rust off the caliper bracket. Sometimes you even have to take a little off the brake pad. If you have to take more than the paint or a stamping created seam, than you haven't cleaned the rust off well enough.
I was just about to get new break-pads. Thanks Scotty, perfect timing.
@@ravenlorans I’m pretty sure Maxi Pads are women’s menstruation products
The auto zone elite brake pad I have been extremely impressed with their performance. You get what you pay for yes they are their most expensive but wow what a difference much better than OEM
"Akebono Brake Pads. A-K-E-B-O-N-O"
- Scotty in every video
kinda expensive :( but ill try getting them on sale
No more than the dealer
@@mikehand2668 i see.. so wats 2nd place? my friend said it was powerstop brake pads. Idk tbf im in school so i work part time
Power stop Z23 or Z26
@@nexushexus4365 ye i got powerstop for my 07 civic their good tho.. for now
Been using Akebono or Hawk HPM pads, no complains with either
Any high quality ceramic pad will work, every manufacturer makes them. Also, I never grease the ears, the pads should slide freely in there and if you grease the ears, they will pick up all sorts of brake dust and end up binding. A little grease under the hardware is fine. I would also prefer that Scotty relube both slide pins. Your only replacing pads every 50K miles, it's not too much to ask to lube the slide pins.
There's always one
I agree on slide pins always clean and regrease but in snowy states you gotta grease the pads or that will cause them to bind from the salt and rust.
I have a 2014 Kia optima I want to find out what are the best brake pads I can put on my car and rotors. Thank you.
What's your opinion on seasoning the new rotors and brake pads by driving up to 25mph and braking hard to 10mph about 5 times, then repeat at 35mph down to 5mph 5 more times?
Crossdrilled/slotted and Carbon infused, it's highly recommended.
I got this same set of front pads for 35 and a set of rear pads for 25 for my Explorer. Rock Auto. Best prices I have ever seen. Also got Napa Proformer quick struts from them for 30 bucks each. Napa had them for 160 each. Same thing with wix oil filters. Got a bunch for around 3 bucks a piece.
Should you grease the caliper pin also,before you put it back?
Yes he should have greased the caliper pins.
Those are called slide pins and yes use silicone grease
Had Akenonos on my Mercedes and they just squeaked to much, they were ceramic. Switched to Hella Pagid Semi Metallic pads and not only do they grab better when cold and hot, but the squeak is gone. Good video Scotty, keep it up.
What's the model of these semi-metallic Hella Pagid brake pads, please ?.
How come you didn't turned the rotor when it had grove before install the new pads on it ?
Don’t turn rotors bug new ones