Mazda CX-5 Front Brake Pads And Rotors. SUPER EASY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- New pads and rotors on the Mazda CX-5. Took about 45min only needed 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, something to compress the caliper, jack and jack stand. Quick trip to bed the pads in after.
It's ridiculous to think you can ruin your pads or rotors by touching them with your hands, or by getting a little grease on them. Does it hurt to keep them clean? Of course not. That said, these things sit beneath the car, and are exposed to far worse contaminants on a regular basis. I've been doing my own brakes for over 40 years. I can assure you, a few fingerprints or a little leftover grease isn't going to hurt anything. Also, I've found that for cars like these, a c clamp works just fine to reduce the caliper piston. None of this is meant as a criticism! Good video!
He did say using a C-clamp "will do the job too."
For Brakes: 14mm & 17mm.
For Rotors: 10mm
You're welcome.
Good video, but when I replace discs on any car I always remove the sliding pins on the calliper then clean off the old grease and apply new grease. This stops wear on one side of the brakes.
Also new discs have a protective coating to prevent rust, so they need a wipe with brake cleaning fluid before fitting
Yup. Gotta grease those pins. I've had them seize up from not greasing it. Brake stuck, overheated the caliper and piston and ruined it.
Man I’d really love to learn a thing or two from you. You definitely enjoy what you do 👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks, I'm not a mechanic but do really love working on my own stuff. Always learning. I post this stuff hoping others will want to get there hands dirty. Working on cars is a lot of trial and error and problem solving but very rewarding.
You should put some anti seize grease before installing the new rotor....and turn the steering wheel to get a better access to the bolts....
Recommend cleaning the slots where the lube goes, so the dirt build does not build up behind and compress the clips, making the pads bind, causing the smoke to be let out of the pads.
10-4 :)
Even better than the helpful directions was watching how you laid the pad assembly out on a table and removed the parts to either side so that there is no confusion about what goes where.
have a 2018 sport after years of v8 monster trucks, love it!
27.9 MPG and goes anywhere especially in winter, cant complain:) Owned since new, 90k and NO ISSUES!
I used an M8x1.25 hex cap bolt on my '16 CX-9 to pop off my rotors
I bought a cheap $10 caliper tool from Harbor Freight, it does the job.
Yeah I'm gonna have to do the same next go round
No word on how to put the parking brakes in the service position first. This is a very important step, I think.
No need to put it in maintenance mode for the front brakes. That’s strictly for the PPP or electronic parking brake, which is only on the rears.
@@michaelmaxwell568 OK.
you didn't lube your caliper slider pins
Absolutely right Shane, I totally forgot to hit them with the hi-temp grease. Rookie mistake on my part. I'm not a pro, just an enthusiast who counts on tips like yours to help anyone with some basic tools work on their own stuff. Cheers!
Wat happened too cleaning and greasing the pins my guy
Didn't notice any brake cleaner or torque wrenches around.
Alot of times you don't want to replace the hardware because stock uses stainless steel where cheap sets don't. Your better off wire brushing the ones you have but it depends on if there stainless or not
Awesome, good to know.
I didn't see him block the tires, to keep it from rolling. Also, a hard jack stand under the car in safest. Hang the removed caliper from a coat hanger wire hook. If it falls off that thing it hanging from now, you can break or damage the rubber brake line, and then yur screwed. If the line is damaged, and you don't see it, you'll know it, after you crash into the back of that brand new Mercedes, cause your brake fluid leaked out.
I don't think braking hard after new pads are installed is good, because the heat build up can wreck the resins in the pads. Go easy on the brakes for a 100 miles, at least.
My Akebono Pads wore out pretty quickly because the Mechanic used Chassis grease in the Sliding pins instead of Hi temp grease and it jammed the pads against the rotor disc 😢. Anyone had this issue of wrong grease?
I’m confused about the brake caliper part he did can someone explain
Why did you replaced the rotors? Where they to thin? Or does the steeringwheel shake when braking? Even the pad don’t look worn! I see people replace their pads because they hit a just a mileage instead of looking if the pads are really worn.
My Mitsubishi Lancer (2007) has the stock rotors (back and front) and stock brakepads on the front. 310.000 km and the front brakend at at 40% now (never change them, just cleaning). It’s not the mileage it’s how you drive. I drive long distance.
That's where I'm bad. I drive everything like I stole it and I'll even burn up performance brakes and rotors within the expected life span. If I actually leave on time I don't drive as aggressive but as soon as I encounter some 60+ jackass doing 10-30kmh under the limit I have to start driving fast again to make up time.
how long would you say it took to do both rears? im looking at doing this on the missos car.
depends on experience but i got through all 4 of mine in about 2 and a half hours.
You forgot to clean the new rotors with brake cleaner! The rust prevention coating will ruin your new pads and your ability to stop.
They had a grey e-coating. No he didn’t lol they didn’t come oiled. 🤣 look closer…
What kind of breaks you used ?
Your wrist touched the rotor... Start over
How you know you have to change the rotors I have 100thoundand on my Mazda one side is making noise.
I change out the rotors rather than getting them turned because they are cheap. I dont have a machine shop close by. My old machine shop used to charge $30 per rotor. There were less than $50 a peice at the time. If you dont change or machine the rotors you can get a pulsing from the brakes.
Do you know what is the thread pitch and size for the bolt to remove the rotor?
I just hammer the rotor with a dead blow.
What kind of lube did you put on the mounting hardware? Noob to car maintenance. thanks!
I believe it was permatex brake parts lubricant
@@MissedAGear awesome! Thanks
Why lube where you put on the wear indicator??? Never done that before
Ya know, my Dad always did it, claimed it helped hold it all together on reassembly. Don't know if its true but I guess these are the things we pick up and just keep doing. Neither one of us are mechanics but I cant remember having a brake failure either:)
other vlogs spray the rotors and clean the caliper/clips... is that not needed?
I did clean the Rotors, I was lazy and didnt clean up the calipers
It's coated rotors. If it were (shiny) without coating there is a layer of grease you need to clean but not on coated
Too bad they messed up the brake system in all the cx-5's the rear brakes wear out before the front
I was wondering about that. The rear brakes just started to act up after 65k miles, but the fronts seem fine.
I was wondering why my rear breaks have needed to been done twice yet my front breaks have only been replaced once!
How many miles did you go when it needed brakes and rotors?
80K
Unless a woman drives the car…..then ur lucky to get 50K. My experience with my wife and daughters. Lol.
whats the torque on all 4 screws when tightening them back in? thx
Google is your friend. Just put year make and model then add brake job torx specs
What brand of rotors and pads did you get ? Thanks
Bosch for the rotors. I have good luck with Bosch quality and the price is usually very reasonable. Brake Best Pads have been my favorite for the past two years. Seem to last long and are quiet. They fit really well too. I have used them on my last 5 brake jobs, three of my vehicles. They don't come with brake pad backing lube so be sure to buy that as well.
@@MissedAGear thanks. I will definitely try them out on my upcoming brake job for my CX5.
@@MissedAGear Guess what ? I just discovered my front rotors were warped, now I have to replace the front rotors and pads :( at the same time.
@@likeathinkpad I always do both just because its about the same cost as getting them machined anymore. Rotors always need to be turned or replaced or warp city, how many miles?
@@MissedAGear Mine is 50k miles. Yeah, I agree with you. I replaced both of the front rotors. I also replaced the new brake pads with Akebono AB1623. it is better just replaced instead of machine the rotor nowadays.
Dude move the camera! For half the video your leg is in the way!
Bremsscheiben und Bremssattel reinigen?
Schrauben ohne Drehmomentschlüssel anziehen?
👎👎👎
so helpfull, thanks a lot.