Nice video, very clear! Maybe you can shed some light: I just had this job done to my 2010SC, updated guide rails and new chains and phasers, however there remains slack in the chain when cold (feeling chain through oil fill opening) and still bit of clatter when revving cold. Could it have to do with lack of oil pressure reaching phaser or tensioners? Oil is new castrol 5w20. It's going back to the shop this week to do the job again but mechanic is also scratching his head to what has gone wrong. Maybe you have experience with this. Would appreciate your help!
Same issue engine sounds like a sewing machine , unable to get the new. chain and tensioners tensioned enough to stop the noise ,ultimately replacement engine ….yikes
I'm trying to put the cam locks in but on the passenger side the intake phaser looks like it has slipped as the timing mark does not line up with the mark on the phaser and the cam is about 20° off. How do I get the lock in? Do I have to remove the timing chain from that phaser and move the cam back into position to insert the lock? Or do I have to just take the phaser off and turn the cam back into position and insert the lock?
The clips do not impede the removal of the rail. Simply remove the 10mm bolts on the rail itself. From that point you have to grab the rail from both ends and wiggle it while pulling up with force. It feels ugly, but will pop off without issue. You then need the special slide hammer tool to remove the injectors themselves.
@@marcgreenmountain6062 did you need to use some kind of special 'calibration' tool when replacing the teflon injector seals?? Also, what specialty tool set are you using? I need to get some but theres several and I have no idea if they are good or junk.
Hey i took off the crankbolt with no tool. I just left the belts on and loosened the bolt by turning clockwise. I really was trying to see if could turn engine over but i forgot to take off the belts . can i just put bolt back on since belts wont let the pulley move. Or would it be bad please help
ive beem told new 2013 -2014 range rovers have come with updated guides that have a proud tensioner seat. is it true. my 2014 has a bit of a sound coming from the driver side exhaust. im worried it sound like an exhaust leak or something constantly knocking
Light bulb moment when you said the V8 has screens on the oil source to the phasers that gunk up with poor quality oil. I am having intermittent “restricted performance” on a 2013 5.0L LR4. The interesting thing is that sometimes it shows the bank 2 exhaust and sometimes the bank 2 intake as being out of phase on GAP tool. I bought the vehicle after the chains were allegedly replaced and it went about 3k miles before the light popped up. I replaced the camshaft sensors and error resumed, so it’s not the sensors. Tried the same with the vvt solenoid on the exhaust, but that didn’t do anything either. It comes and goes, and the engine WAS idling rough but it hasn’t since I put seafoam in the crank. My hunch is the oil in there is 1- old, 2- low quality. Will do a liquid moly engine flush and put revanol oil in it after in hopes it’ll clear it up. Is there a way I can check timing with the GAP tool? I think it would not be intermittent if the timing skipped/jumped.
Can you give me location of camshaft sensors and actuators on a 2010 RR sport 5.0 im getting a Restricted Performance warning and P001E and P001B Error codes Tks
i had my 2013 Jaguar xjl supercharge water pump n supercharger replace 3 months later check engine on..stated timing chain skipped a tooth is that possible
Incredible work. Insane to see how much differently you and I do the job. Were the phasers making noise? I did not remove the injectors and valve covers but only the main timing cover, and replaced the guides/tensioners without locking the crank as the chain never leaves the cam/crank sprockets. Little easier of a job..
Do you know of a video that shows this way your using? How can you tell if you needed to replace the phasers or not? I was thinking of replacing mine while there (170k miles) but no idea if they are actually bad or not and they are like $1200 so would rather not replace if I can verify that they are solid with good life left. And ideas?
@@marcgreenmountain6062 I agree, those high pressure fuel injectors are tough to remove. The tool you used appears to be at an angle and from my experience, any pull at an angle makes it harder to remove since those injectors are slotted 2" into the block. I remove those by hand by pulling as straight as possible and they are hard but do get out after a couple of tries.
Does it really take 22 hours though ? I bet after the second timing chain job someone can finish in a day. Only the dealer says 22🤣 . My neighbor with the mullet can change this in a day and a 30 pack
Number 1. Get rid of the stupid music! it is distracting. 2. Name each piece / part you are going to take out, tool size, start unscrewing, a few seconds of fast forward and then on to the next part/piece. 3. have your microphone on high, so the viewer can follow the action with the explanation. 4. Have better lighting, have flashlights or lights positioned in a way that illuminates the bolt /nut/part to be removed. That is the way professionals make great videos. Then it will not be just another video, it will be a TOOL that will help us to do a great job!
@@marcgreenmountain6062 it's as if he hired you to make the video. lol. It's a great video, I'm fixing to embark on this job and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Hope you keep making videos....esp Range Rover videos.
Nice video, very clear! Maybe you can shed some light: I just had this job done to my 2010SC, updated guide rails and new chains and phasers, however there remains slack in the chain when cold (feeling chain through oil fill opening) and still bit of clatter when revving cold. Could it have to do with lack of oil pressure reaching phaser or tensioners? Oil is new castrol 5w20. It's going back to the shop this week to do the job again but mechanic is also scratching his head to what has gone wrong. Maybe you have experience with this. Would appreciate your help!
Same issue engine sounds like a sewing machine , unable to get the new. chain and tensioners tensioned enough to stop the noise ,ultimately replacement engine ….yikes
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
I have a marine brother trying to remove the nut on the cam shaft that's behind the brake vacuum pump. What tool or how does he perform this.
Hi, where is that phaser screen for no SC engine?
Can you leave the filter out for the non supercharged ones. I have done it with other vvt vehicles especially higher mileage ones.
Damn... that's a ton of work! How much is a job like this?
...I'm guessing over 5000 plus ...
It's actually 8500 .
@@bigperro2825 based on the amount of work I can see why!
I'm trying to put the cam locks in but on the passenger side the intake phaser looks like it has slipped as the timing mark does not line up with the mark on the phaser and the cam is about 20° off. How do I get the lock in? Do I have to remove the timing chain from that phaser and move the cam back into position to insert the lock? Or do I have to just take the phaser off and turn the cam back into position and insert the lock?
i love how the tensioner says fomoco on it.
That’s because Ford owned LR, Jag, AM
I reached as far as the fuell injectors,I can't get the clips off to remove the rail. I don't want to pull and damage these injectors. Any advice.
The clips do not impede the removal of the rail. Simply remove the 10mm bolts on the rail itself. From that point you have to grab the rail from both ends and wiggle it while pulling up with force.
It feels ugly, but will pop off without issue. You then need the special slide hammer tool to remove the injectors themselves.
Appreciate all the videos. Very talented. Hope you are compensating handsomely for your talent.
Crankshaft key way which direction is facing
Is it necessary to use new Teflon injector seals or stick with old once?
its recommended to change them with factory approved seals
@@marcgreenmountain6062 did you need to use some kind of special 'calibration' tool when replacing the teflon injector seals?? Also, what specialty tool set are you using? I need to get some but theres several and I have no idea if they are good or junk.
I need a good mechanic☝👍
Hello, nice job!!! You where i can buy the part to do the job? 2011 RR SC TIMING KIT?
How did you take the retainer clips off ? Whats the method? Push down om the top ends ?
At what service interval should this task be performed? How long do these wear parts last?
depends on how the vehicle is or was maintenance.
I guess there is no part 2?
Where did you purchase all of the parts?
can you pull the crankbolt without locking the flywheel?
its reverse threads, so the answer would be no.
@@marcgreenmountain6062 some of the later engines are not reverse threaded..still not possible to remove it without the hold tool
were do i buy the locking tools that you use in this video what are they called
Hey i took off the crankbolt with no tool. I just left the belts on and loosened the bolt by turning clockwise. I really was trying to see if could turn engine over but i forgot to take off the belts . can i just put bolt back on since belts wont let the pulley move. Or would it be bad please help
Is the key way at 6 or 12 o’clock when at tdc?
What happened to part 2😟🤔
ive beem told new 2013 -2014 range rovers have come with updated guides that have a proud tensioner seat. is it true. my 2014 has a bit of a sound coming from the driver side exhaust. im worried it sound like an exhaust leak or something constantly knocking
that would be false
th-cam.com/video/bOmSIRrn1SY/w-d-xo.html
on the link is my rr . this sounds familiar on all 5.0 l sc or do i have an issue creeping up? id appreciate any feedback.
what tools did you use to lock down the crank to remove/install the crank bolt? How tough was that part?
how much a job like that cost
Smell's like teen spirit... How fitting! Hear we are now being entertertaind Lol
Light bulb moment when you said the V8 has screens on the oil source to the phasers that gunk up with poor quality oil.
I am having intermittent “restricted performance” on a 2013 5.0L LR4. The interesting thing is that sometimes it shows the bank 2 exhaust and sometimes the bank 2 intake as being out of phase on GAP tool.
I bought the vehicle after the chains were allegedly replaced and it went about 3k miles before the light popped up.
I replaced the camshaft sensors and error resumed, so it’s not the sensors. Tried the same with the vvt solenoid on the exhaust, but that didn’t do anything either.
It comes and goes, and the engine WAS idling rough but it hasn’t since I put seafoam in the crank.
My hunch is the oil in there is 1- old, 2- low quality.
Will do a liquid moly engine flush and put revanol oil in it after in hopes it’ll clear it up.
Is there a way I can check timing with the GAP tool? I think it would not be intermittent if the timing skipped/jumped.
can u put links that i can click on in the comments that can direct me to them
Can you give me location of camshaft sensors and actuators on a 2010 RR sport 5.0 im getting a Restricted Performance warning and P001E and P001B Error codes
Tks
on the upper timing covers. easy to see once the air intake boxes are removed
i had my 2013 Jaguar xjl supercharge water pump n supercharger replace 3 months later check engine on..stated timing chain skipped a tooth is that possible
Incredible work. Insane to see how much differently you and I do the job. Were the phasers making noise?
I did not remove the injectors and valve covers but only the main timing cover, and replaced the guides/tensioners without locking the crank as the chain never leaves the cam/crank sprockets. Little easier of a job..
How long did it take you doing it this way? I have the chain rattle but with 57k I don't think I need to do the chain just the tensioners.
Do you know of a video that shows this way your using? How can you tell if you needed to replace the phasers or not? I was thinking of replacing mine while there (170k miles) but no idea if they are actually bad or not and they are like $1200 so would rather not replace if I can verify that they are solid with good life left. And ideas?
Buen video, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos!!!
How much was the labot for this? I imagine the supercharger is what made this long ass process.
Louie Vazquez the job calls for 22 hours? I forget but actually the injections are the hardest part since you’re trying not to damage them
@@marcgreenmountain6062 I agree, those high pressure fuel injectors are tough to remove. The tool you used appears to be at an angle and from my experience, any pull at an angle makes it harder to remove since those injectors are slotted 2" into the block. I remove those by hand by pulling as straight as possible and they are hard but do get out after a couple of tries.
Very informative...! Great video!
How long does it take to just remove the supercharger alone? Great video.
10-15 minutes
Would like to ask you a question. How could I contact you. Thank you.
Will this cause rough running and open loop faults? 2016 RR S/C with P054C.
did you google the fault code? im not here to hold hands. sorry =/
@@marcgreenmountain6062 Turns out I was right, chain jumped a couple teeth. What a job this was, next time Im just dropping the cradle.
Is this interference or non interference engine???
interference unfortunately
❤❤❤❤
Kind of fast forwarded the hardest part lol
Does it really take 22 hours though ? I bet after the second timing chain job someone can finish in a day. Only the dealer says 22🤣 . My neighbor with the mullet can change this in a day and a 30 pack
i would love to see that, its so much work. you dont understand.
HI
Should put something in front of the radiator or else that’s another $500
never had a problem
@@marcgreenmountain6062 Well yeah, you didn't but just a good practice for others.
Number 1. Get rid of the stupid music! it is distracting. 2. Name each piece / part you are going to take out, tool size, start unscrewing, a few seconds of fast forward and then on to the next part/piece. 3. have your microphone on high, so the viewer can follow the action with the explanation. 4. Have better lighting, have flashlights or lights positioned in a way that illuminates the bolt /nut/part to be removed. That is the way professionals make great videos. Then it will not be just another video, it will be a TOOL that will help us to do a great job!
go ahead and make your own video than
@@marcgreenmountain6062 it's as if he hired you to make the video. lol. It's a great video, I'm fixing to embark on this job and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Hope you keep making videos....esp Range Rover videos.