Man I’m dying to do this repair on my L320 sport. Sadly apartment living in SoCal limits my ability to diy. This is a great step by step though. Thanks for taking the time!
To anyone watching this ….replace the plastic rear coolant pipes for new aluminum ones , the front coolant pipes also, the supercharger shaft spring and the water pump or you will be doing all this work again soon. There are kits like from Euro Amp that are great. DO SOME RESEARCH on coolant line failure. It is on all Land Rover engines. Great video
Yes. Replace the plastic coolant pipes with metal! 1- anterior Y pipe and it’s top piece (2 pieces) 2- rear heater manifold aka the rear crossover pipe 3- replace the water pump and get an aluminum water pump to oil cooler pipe.
You sir are a real one! I have had this in the back of my mind trying to do this for a while. Mine doesn’t need it yet, but when it does I’m using this video.
Great job. Thanks a lot for filming the process and torque specs! I'm going through the same procedure on 2017 Jaguar F Pace 3.0 V6 turbocharged ( they are almost the same with 5.0 V8). You should replace a couple of coolant pipes though to avoid BIG TROUBLES, these engines have few issues: timing chain, plastic with a spring inside the turbocharger and coolant pipes(you changed almost everything), apart from that it is a reliable engine. It's a little bit sad that you didn't change the pipes while you were there but now you can make it really fast since you now know every bolt. If you slowly lose some coolant or smell coolant under the hood or even if not, it might happen suddenly because plastic pipe cracks over the time and makes a big hole, in this case you will lose all your coolant in 5 sec and overheat the engine. I'm begging everybody who has 3.0 V6 or 5.0 V8 land rover/jaguar engines (AJ126, Aj133), change your plastic coolant pipes as soon as possible if you love your car and don't wanna waste your money. Also if you hear a noise from timing chain, replace it as well, using this great video. I have to resleeve all cylinders, buy new pistons, connecting rods and much more parts, resurface short block and head cylinders etc, just because somebody overheat the engine, after these plastic pipes cracked. Here a link to a kit for replacing plastic pipes with aluminium ones, just make sure it fits your engine. (3.0 or 5.0) you can also change water pump and thermostat in addition to that. www.ebay.com/itm/156443653921
Thanks for acknowledging all the work. Recording it took forever and really slowed the job down. It was frustrating at times but after watching a ton of videos people had made, none of them properly documented the process and left a lot of critical/ crucial information out which was strange to me. I figured I could help a lot of people and save them the pain and frustration I experienced when I was doing this job half blind by making an in-depth video.
You’re welcome. It was my first time ever doing a timing chain on anything. Came out great and I’ve put 50k miles on since with no issues 👍🏻 I guess you can say “Ops Check Good. “
Great video, will be using this when our 13' L405 starts showing signs of timing wear. (Currently at 89k miles). Currently we're focused on a clunk in the drivetrain... most likely transfer case related as we used it to tow frequently. Not too sure how much more $ we're willing to dump into it though...
Mine was doing the same thing, grinding and making weird noises in the transfer case. Believe it or not changing the oil in the transfer case completely remedy this. I was completely shocked, but I read about other users doing it and having the same results. Give it a shot.
Thank you so much for this video step by step. I can do this with my level of working on car and truck. I really trust my skills. I hope my wife does on this project
@@calvinalford4121 She will by the time you are done! And you will save a tone of money. I've put 30k miles on my Rover since I did the TIming Chain. No issues. Runs great.
It took many days with filming and never have done it before. When I did it the first time, I timed it with the cams 180' off. I put it completely back together before I realized my mistake. It took me about 15 hours to rip it all apart, re-time it correctly, and reassemble it. Obviously the job was fresh on my mind which made it really easy the 2nd time. So the job can probably be done in 12-15 hours by a person familiar with it (if nothing gets broken) or following this video along as I document it very thoroughly.
Just got to the timing components and didn’t lock the cams properly, heard a ding where I assume the exhaust valves on one cylinder slammed back. Any chance of severe damage u think? Thanks a bunch, super clear instructions already.
If the motor was locked out at TDC I don’t think any damage happened. Just the spring tension making the valve close. Probably free’d up a little carbon that may have been hanging on to that valve I’d venture to say.
@@petercunningham5820 thanks so much, thankfully it was locked at tdc! the sound gave a bit of a scare. just finished up putting in the timing components and just realized they also included the lower chain which i checked with the tool, is still in time. do you recommend to change that too since i already put most of it back together? i also checked in the cylinder and noticed some vertical scoring, would you say thats normal at 90k miles? Thanks!
@@petercunningham5820 Hello again. At 1:12:17 you mention the flywheel lockup tool not fitting but the crank pulley holder tool was sufficient to hold the pulley in order to remove the bolt! Just wondering why both tools are recommended just to remove that bolt? Or say if the flywheel locking tool fit, would you even need the crank hold tool to loosen bolt?
@@mascho22 i’m not sure. But using just the flywheel lockout tool worked for me. The crank bolt is very tight so that’s probably why they recommend using both tools. The Shop manual recommended using both tools. Probably to avoid damage. I’m not an engineer so I can’t give you an accurate answer just my opinion.
Man I’m dying to do this repair on my L320 sport. Sadly apartment living in SoCal limits my ability to diy. This is a great step by step though. Thanks for taking the time!
I don’t own a Range Rover but found a 2014 RR for bad timing . Owner is asking $3500, this video is very informative . Good info ..
Doing this is one huge feat. But recording the whole thing and editing it is another beast all in itself. You're a legend!
Hahahahah thanks. It made the job 3x as long as it needed to be. Worth it though to help others.
Hero status! As TH-cam contributions go, this is a valuable keeper.
Thank you!
Outstanding step-by-step instructions even included torque specs. Thank you for this. I’m going to be doing this job soon on my Range Rover sport
Yep, it's complete. I even when back in and made edits to make sure the instructions are clear.
To anyone watching this ….replace the plastic rear coolant pipes for new aluminum ones , the front coolant pipes also, the supercharger shaft spring and the water pump or you will be doing all this work again soon. There are kits like from Euro Amp that are great. DO SOME RESEARCH on coolant line failure. It is on all Land Rover engines. Great video
Yes. Replace the plastic coolant pipes with metal!
1- anterior Y pipe and it’s top piece (2 pieces)
2- rear heater manifold aka the rear crossover pipe
3- replace the water pump and get an aluminum water pump to oil cooler pipe.
Wow you have absolutely nailed it!! And saved thousands of diy’ers money
Great Video! Very much detailed and an good inspiration for my upcoming TC Job on my Disco! Thanks a lot!
Really impressive piece of work. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you
You sir are a real one! I have had this in the back of my mind trying to do this for a while. Mine doesn’t need it yet, but when it does I’m using this video.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Great job. Thanks a lot for filming the process and torque specs!
I'm going through the same procedure on 2017 Jaguar F Pace 3.0 V6 turbocharged ( they are almost the same with 5.0 V8).
You should replace a couple of coolant pipes though to avoid BIG TROUBLES, these engines have few issues: timing chain, plastic with a spring inside the turbocharger and coolant pipes(you changed almost everything), apart from that it is a reliable engine. It's a little bit sad that you didn't change the pipes while you were there but now you can make it really fast since you now know every bolt.
If you slowly lose some coolant or smell coolant under the hood or even if not, it might happen suddenly because plastic pipe cracks over the time and makes a big hole, in this case you will lose all your coolant in 5 sec and overheat the engine.
I'm begging everybody who has 3.0 V6 or 5.0 V8 land rover/jaguar engines (AJ126, Aj133), change your plastic coolant pipes as soon as possible if you love your car and don't wanna waste your money. Also if you hear a noise from timing chain, replace it as well, using this great video.
I have to resleeve all cylinders, buy new pistons, connecting rods and much more parts, resurface short block and head cylinders etc, just because somebody overheat the engine, after these plastic pipes cracked.
Here a link to a kit for replacing plastic pipes with aluminium ones, just make sure it fits your engine. (3.0 or 5.0)
you can also change water pump and thermostat in addition to that.
www.ebay.com/itm/156443653921
Thanks. I did change the coolant crossover pipes. I didn’t film it.
Damn you are thorough brother - nice job and thanks for taking the time to record it all :)
Thanks for acknowledging all the work. Recording it took forever and really slowed the job down. It was frustrating at times but after watching a ton of videos people had made, none of them properly documented the process and left a lot of critical/ crucial information out which was strange to me. I figured I could help a lot of people and save them the pain and frustration I experienced when I was doing this job half blind by making an in-depth video.
Amazing job. Great thing about this is that it works for other JLR vehicles as well.
Thank you
I want to do this job to mine this winter. If you want to get rid of the special tools I'd buy them
this was a great video i was going to make one but this was perfect
Great video! I'm going to be using this when I tackle the job on my Jaguar XJL! Thanks!
What a fantastic video! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job!
Excellent - thank you!
You’re welcome. It was my first time ever doing a timing chain on anything. Came out great and I’ve put 50k miles on since with no issues 👍🏻 I guess you can say “Ops Check Good. “
Great video, will be using this when our 13' L405 starts showing signs of timing wear. (Currently at 89k miles). Currently we're focused on a clunk in the drivetrain... most likely transfer case related as we used it to tow frequently. Not too sure how much more $ we're willing to dump into it though...
Mine was doing the same thing, grinding and making weird noises in the transfer case. Believe it or not changing the oil in the transfer case completely remedy this. I was completely shocked, but I read about other users doing it and having the same results. Give it a shot.
@@petercunningham5820
Yeah I saw someone on the LR2 forums who did the same thing! Will definitely be doing this.
Thank you so much for this video step by step. I can do this with my level of working on car and truck. I really trust my skills. I hope my wife does on this project
@@calvinalford4121 She will by the time you are done! And you will save a tone of money. I've put 30k miles on my Rover since I did the TIming Chain. No issues. Runs great.
Wow what a complete video on how to do the work on it. How long did it take many man hours from start to finish?? Just wondering many man hours!!!
It took many days with filming and never have done it before. When I did it the first time, I timed it with the cams 180' off. I put it completely back together before I realized my mistake. It took me about 15 hours to rip it all apart, re-time it correctly, and reassemble it. Obviously the job was fresh on my mind which made it really easy the 2nd time. So the job can probably be done in 12-15 hours by a person familiar with it (if nothing gets broken) or following this video along as I document it very thoroughly.
👍🏻Thank you
Good works and thanks for sharing , just my opinion is it much easier to get whole engine removed from the engine bay to work on ?
It probably cheaper to replace engine than replacing timing chain at dealer
Just got to the timing components and didn’t lock the cams properly, heard a ding where I assume the exhaust valves on one cylinder slammed back. Any chance of severe damage u think? Thanks a bunch, super clear instructions already.
If the motor was locked out at TDC I don’t think any damage happened. Just the spring tension making the valve close. Probably free’d up a little carbon that may have been hanging on to that valve I’d venture to say.
@@petercunningham5820 thanks so much, thankfully it was locked at tdc! the sound gave a bit of a scare. just finished up putting in the timing components and just realized they also included the lower chain which i checked with the tool, is still in time. do you recommend to change that too since i already put most of it back together? i also checked in the cylinder and noticed some vertical scoring, would you say thats normal at 90k miles? Thanks!
maybe easier to remove the windshield cowling (i know a pain) to get better access to the back of the SC?
Probably. It's water over the damn and in the rear view now. 👍🏻
@@petercunningham5820 Hello again. At 1:12:17 you mention the flywheel lockup tool not fitting but the crank pulley holder tool was sufficient to hold the pulley in order to remove the bolt! Just wondering why both tools are recommended just to remove that bolt? Or say if the flywheel locking tool fit, would you even need the crank hold tool to loosen bolt?
@@mascho22 i’m not sure. But using just the flywheel lockout tool worked for me. The crank bolt is very tight so that’s probably why they recommend using both tools. The Shop manual recommended using both tools. Probably to avoid damage. I’m not an engineer so I can’t give you an accurate answer just my opinion.
This is true youtube this blokes a legend
Thanks brother. lol Nearly made me blush.