Great job and write up. Im using t6 15/40 at 7k oil changes in a 2019 3.0 supercharged. It sounds like a sewing machine. Im in Fl and find oil dilution on these gdi engines is more pronounced than people realize. Extended oil changes are the killer of these. Understand the upgraded tensioners and guides.
Thanks for good and informative videos, it's much appreciated! However, it's also a good example of a missing opportunity when not using the boroscope... Should you have/used one, it would be super easy to diagnoze the valve/piston damage, so you can just pull out the dressed engine without spending time and inconvenience of working on it while it was still in the car.
5 STARS - from another TH-camr - think we all would like to say THANK YOU Fella - what a brillaint upload - I am sure like us - its going to help so many out there NICE JOB all round - and Thank You Fella from the team in England
I think you forgot to set the first stage ratchet mechanism on the tensioner. There is a shop guide that instructs you to apply a considerable amount of force on the time chain guide until the first stage of the ratchet in the tensioner is applied. If you can pish the piston back in then its not set
A few years ago. My wifes nephew bought a 2011 Range Rover. It was loosing coolant big time. He replaced the water pump and still no bueno. So he dropped it off at my shade tree. The plastic crossover pipe had ruptured. Split in half. So we found a new one and replaced it. No more leaks. But i noticed a slight rattle on the drivers side head/cam side. I told him the timing chains needs to be replaced along with the tensioners. I told him. Maybe around 5k for the repair. I can do it. But i needed the special tools. And i don't have the funds to order tools. So he drove it home. About a month later he hauled it to Salt lake city utah. After spending $6500.00 . Its repaired. At the land Rover dealership. Then he put it up for sale.
I am currently in an identical situation except my bad piston is #7. How much was the head repair? I have identical damage. I need all but 2 valves replaced. My piston was also damaged but no holes/cracks but some decent scars. Not sure if i should replace it.
Hi, thanks for your videos, got question, are you not afraid to use some 'no name' timig chain parts ? everyone recomandate to use only OEM when replacing timing. Thanks, gretings from Poland.
@ I’ve got to do a chain on my 2010 HSE. Always have used OEM on our customer cars. Was looking for an aftermarket option. Would you recommend the MOCA kit? There is also a kit from BGAUTOMOTIVE and INA that I’ve heard of
@@andrewsir6363 I would recommend the MOCA kit. Like I said, it feels high quality to me. I don't have any super long term feedback, but one of my rovers has 10,000 miles and counting on one of the MOCA kits.
I have 2011 Range Rover sport I have everything in the lock down kit in . The crankshaft is off . I’m have the cams locked down with the mark on the bottom. The crankshaft key is at the bottom. The marks for the timing are not all lining up like in your video? Will I mess up anything by going head and remove cams and chain so I can pull the head?
Hey, for testing the tolerances at 24:25. The book says "Prior to installing the camshafts, position the crankshaft 45 degrees ATDC cylinder 1A to prevent valve/piston collision." I have the flywheel locked with the starter tool, and also the crank sensor tool in the right spot, and the crank woodruff key is at 6 oclock. Is this the position the book is talking about? Or do i need to undo all the locking tools and rotate the engine to a different position? What position is the woodruff key at when cylinder 1a is 45 degress atdc? thanks
@@NiXFiX I ended up testing the clearances just like you, and my intake cam lobes are completely in contact with the intake tappets. So the clearance is 0... Have you ever experienced this in your rebuilds? I got new valve stem seals installed, I doubt that has anything to do with it though
@@ExpatJoel did they do a valve job in addition to the seals? Valve job includes grinding the seats which makes the valve stem stick up higher. You'll either need to grind a little off the top of the stem or order new (smaller) buckets. You need to find some that meet the tolerance first so you know which ones to order.
@@NiXFiX no valve job was done. Do you know how much I can correct the out of spec clearances? Like what's the biggest range of buckets available? I honestly have no idea how they're this out of spec
Great videos! I commented on part 1 about removing the crank bolt and pulley. Watched this one and noe I am guessing you are using the flywheel lock tool to hold the rotating mass as you torque the crank bolt? Just curious how you do it with out the tool.
@@NiXFiX thanks! Clearly, it works! For my 5.0L NA I nervously followed the shop manual and I'm pretty sure it had me remove the both tools before cranking the bolt on or off. I guessed that the tools couldn't take the torque, but seems they can.
@@brmadsenad JLR loves to make and sell tools. They're probably more worried about snapping a flywheel tooth than anything. I just look at the math. Detorquing /torquing something the diameter of a nickel (the bolt) and holding with a flywheel that is what... 18 inches? The mechanical advantage is crazy high.
Hello, on passenger side of the care I put tension on the exhaust side cam to remove slack in the chain then tighten everything. After tightening, the chain still has some form of slack. What am I doing wrong?
Tighten everything of just tighten the sprockets? Everything except the cam sprockets should be tight and the pins pulled on the tensioners. The pull the chain tight with the tool and, while it is held tight, tighten the sprocket T40 bolts. Where is the slack you are seeing? At the top? The static guide side? The tensioner arm side?
@@NiXFiX Everything is tighten except sprockets and tensioner pin pulled Once I use the tool to tighten the sprockets I removed the tool and the chain will have some slack. I then attempted to turn the motor over thinking everything was okay, but the passenger sprocket jumped and the timing was back off with a lot of slack in chain. The driver side is okay though.
I don't know if you found what you needed for this: ATLIN Head Bolt Tool for VW and Audi Vehicles, Polydrive Head Bolt Socket, Fits VW and Audi Head Bolts, 6-Point, 10-millimeters
I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 L322 pending a positive pre-purchase inspection from Land Rover tomorrow but I think I’m going to start budgeting for the full timing chain service anyway. I figure an extra $7k is worth it for years of peace of mind driving. It won’t be my daily driver but it’d be nice not to worry
Great job and write up. Im using t6 15/40 at 7k oil changes in a 2019 3.0 supercharged. It sounds like a sewing machine. Im in Fl and find oil dilution on these gdi engines is more pronounced than people realize. Extended oil changes are the killer of these. Understand the upgraded tensioners and guides.
Thanks!
@@cmedina61 thank you!
Great videos! Total lifesaver for me doing heads on a 2020 SVR F Pace. Thank you!
My goodness. 2020? That is so new!? Overheat?
Great video. Your knowledge is amazing!
Thanks for good and informative videos, it's much appreciated! However, it's also a good example of a missing opportunity when not using the boroscope... Should you have/used one, it would be super easy to diagnoze the valve/piston damage, so you can just pull out the dressed engine without spending time and inconvenience of working on it while it was still in the car.
You are not wrong! Haha.
5 STARS - from another TH-camr - think we all would like to say THANK YOU Fella - what a brillaint upload - I am sure like us - its going to help so many out there
NICE JOB all round - and Thank You Fella from the team in England
What a nice and thoughtful comment. Thank you for the kind words. Cheers.
I think you forgot to set the first stage ratchet mechanism on the tensioner. There is a shop guide that instructs you to apply a considerable amount of force on the time chain guide until the first stage of the ratchet in the tensioner is applied. If you can pish the piston back in then its not set
I do this at 36:28
A few years ago. My wifes nephew bought a 2011 Range Rover. It was loosing coolant big time. He replaced the water pump and still no bueno. So he dropped it off at my shade tree.
The plastic crossover pipe had ruptured. Split in half. So we found a new one and replaced it. No more leaks. But i noticed a slight rattle on the drivers side head/cam side. I told him the timing chains needs to be replaced along with the tensioners. I told him. Maybe around 5k for the repair. I can do it. But i needed the special tools. And i don't have the funds to order tools. So he drove it home. About a month later he hauled it to Salt lake city utah. After spending $6500.00 . Its repaired. At the land Rover dealership.
Then he put it up for sale.
When putting the heads where should my piston be? And then when you’re putting the chain on time where should my piston be??
Great Video!!
I am currently in an identical situation except my bad piston is #7. How much was the head repair? I have identical damage. I need all but 2 valves replaced. My piston was also damaged but no holes/cracks but some decent scars. Not sure if i should replace it.
I think head repair was around $300, but I provided the valves and seals.
awesome vids man thanks ;) followed and thanked ;)
What size bolts did you use to attach motor to the stand?
Hi, thanks for your videos, got question, are you not afraid to use some 'no name' timig chain parts ? everyone recomandate to use only OEM when replacing timing.
Thanks, gretings from Poland.
I am a fan of the MOCA kit. This is the 4th time I've used the kit and I like it. Remember, I'm repairing these because the OEM failed.
Is this the aftermarket timing chain kit you use on all your range rover rebuilds?
I do like the MOCA kit. It feels high quality to me. And, yes, I've used it just about every time. I can only think of one time I didn't.
@ I’ve got to do a chain on my 2010 HSE. Always have used OEM on our customer cars. Was looking for an aftermarket option. Would you recommend the MOCA kit? There is also a kit from BGAUTOMOTIVE and INA that I’ve heard of
@@andrewsir6363 I would recommend the MOCA kit. Like I said, it feels high quality to me. I don't have any super long term feedback, but one of my rovers has 10,000 miles and counting on one of the MOCA kits.
I have 2011 Range Rover sport I have everything in the lock down kit in . The crankshaft is off . I’m have the cams locked down with the mark on the bottom. The crankshaft key is at the bottom. The marks for the timing are not all lining up like in your video? Will I mess up anything by going head and remove cams and chain so I can pull the head?
You're good. The marks on the chain are for install only. After the engine is ran, it is a roulette wheel when and if the marks line up again.
Hey, for testing the tolerances at 24:25. The book says "Prior to installing the camshafts, position the crankshaft 45 degrees ATDC cylinder 1A to prevent valve/piston collision." I have the flywheel locked with the starter tool, and also the crank sensor tool in the right spot, and the crank woodruff key is at 6 oclock. Is this the position the book is talking about? Or do i need to undo all the locking tools and rotate the engine to a different position? What position is the woodruff key at when cylinder 1a is 45 degress atdc? thanks
None of the pistons are at TDC with the crank locked in position.
@@NiXFiX so you didn't rotate the engine at all before testing these tolerances? I'm fine with the engine locked in timing position?
@@NiXFiX I ended up testing the clearances just like you, and my intake cam lobes are completely in contact with the intake tappets. So the clearance is 0... Have you ever experienced this in your rebuilds? I got new valve stem seals installed, I doubt that has anything to do with it though
@@ExpatJoel did they do a valve job in addition to the seals? Valve job includes grinding the seats which makes the valve stem stick up higher. You'll either need to grind a little off the top of the stem or order new (smaller) buckets. You need to find some that meet the tolerance first so you know which ones to order.
@@NiXFiX no valve job was done. Do you know how much I can correct the out of spec clearances? Like what's the biggest range of buckets available? I honestly have no idea how they're this out of spec
Great videos! I commented on part 1 about removing the crank bolt and pulley. Watched this one and noe I am guessing you are using the flywheel lock tool to hold the rotating mass as you torque the crank bolt?
Just curious how you do it with out the tool.
I replied to your comment on part 1. :)
@@NiXFiX thanks! Clearly, it works! For my 5.0L NA I nervously followed the shop manual and I'm pretty sure it had me remove the both tools before
cranking the bolt on or off. I guessed that the tools couldn't take the torque, but seems they can.
@@brmadsenad JLR loves to make and sell tools. They're probably more worried about snapping a flywheel tooth than anything. I just look at the math. Detorquing /torquing something the diameter of a nickel (the bolt) and holding with a flywheel that is what... 18 inches? The mechanical advantage is crazy high.
Hello, on passenger side of the care I put tension on the exhaust side cam to remove slack in the chain then tighten everything. After tightening, the chain still has some form of slack. What am I doing wrong?
Tighten everything of just tighten the sprockets? Everything except the cam sprockets should be tight and the pins pulled on the tensioners. The pull the chain tight with the tool and, while it is held tight, tighten the sprocket T40 bolts. Where is the slack you are seeing? At the top? The static guide side? The tensioner arm side?
@@NiXFiX Everything is tighten except sprockets and tensioner pin pulled Once I use the tool to tighten the sprockets I removed the tool and the chain will have some slack. I then attempted to turn the motor over thinking everything was okay, but the passenger sprocket jumped and the timing was back off with a lot of slack in chain. The driver side is okay though.
@@NiXFiX Would I be able to call you?
Not sure if anyone will see this but hex size is the fornthe main bearing caps on the crankshaft? T50 too small t55 too big
I don't know if you found what you needed for this: ATLIN Head Bolt Tool for VW and Audi Vehicles, Polydrive Head Bolt Socket, Fits VW and Audi Head Bolts, 6-Point, 10-millimeters
👍
What causes a timing chain to need replacing?
Poor design, however having nice fresh oil will reduce friction thus reducing wear. Keep oil fresh.
I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 L322 pending a positive pre-purchase inspection from Land Rover tomorrow but I think I’m going to start budgeting for the full timing chain service anyway. I figure an extra $7k is worth it for years of peace of mind driving. It won’t be my daily driver but it’d be nice not to worry
Cheap plastic timing guides, they crack easily.
When putting the heads where should my piston be? And then when you’re putting the chain on time where should my piston be??
When putting the heads where should my piston be? And then when you’re putting the chain on time where should my piston be??