I’ve had the T300 for about 6 months now and so happy with it. Just bought a wheel stand so I can stop mounting to my desk and I’m excited for that to arrive. Main reason I got the wheel stand is I do agree, the pedals can move around when racing if not clamped down or placed against something and that is my only grief with the system to date but it’s easy to get around. When my mom came to visit I had her try it out as well and she spent hours on it, became addicted just as quickly as I did lol
I have a g923 and I was looking to upgrade to a T300 because when turning the g923 I can feel the gears and it is not very smooth, I was wondering if you have that same problem with the T300 or does the belt drive fix that?
I did the mistake of buying the g923, used it for 3hrs wasn’t impressed it felt like driving with a loose tie rod end 😖. I found out about the T300 RS gt and bought it, it’s so much better 👍👍😁
The G923 i got like on wednesday it was amazing to use my second race wheel while my first one was ok but hell the G923 did so much that my cheap wheel couldnt it was fun to use its not a bad wheel for someone that never had the change to feel the real driving coming from your room
@@MidnightMidas the force feedback in the g29 and g923 are identical. The only difference in them is the true force in the g923, which is not connected to to the force feedback. Whilst the true force is a nice addition, the soft force feedback really let's it down
I have had my logitech G29 since 24th December 2018. (Europe Christmas Eve). My brake pedal died yesterday. Meaning the pedal won't register movement, only if I press down the speeder, it follows. The clutch is also slowly dying. Same as the speeder. The problems began 6 months ago. But with 2.800+ hours on it, I think it's fiar to die. It has serviced it's lifetime
I have the logitech g920 but personally I prefer the T300RS GT because the wheel is a lot smoother and quieter and the break pedal is not that hard to press.
I ride on Series X and am completely satisfied with the Logitech G920! Yes, the gear technology is relatively noisy, but there is a simple solution to make it almost completely silent. If you have some manual skills, you can do the conversion for 1€ in just under half an hour (Warning!!! Warranty expires) Unscrew the steering wheel, remove both motors and you get to the gear rail. Degrease cleanly and stick a thin layer of felt (similar to chair gliders) to the bottom of the running surface. Then grease everything well (including the felt layer), assemble everything and almost not hear it anymore. Quieter than the rumble effect of a controller. Because it is not the gears that make the noise, but the play of the rack on the sliding surface. Works for me now more than 2000 hours without problems. Even in continuous use of uninterrupted 12 hours. Can of course also be used on the G29... To do this, of course, remove the rubber stopper in the brake and if you want it to be even more realistic, close the air outlet hole in the lower sleeve with a screw and hot glue. Insert a thin round rubber seal into the milling of this sleeve and grease it well. Put everything back together and you will be amazed. Due to this conversion, the air in the sleeve cannot escape and the harder the pedal is pressed, the more it is compressed. It's not rocket science and both conversions present you with a better driving experience.👋 Of course I left you a subscription
Everybody know the T300 is better like G92=G923...the better simulator people told also this...i dont understand this test.... so i dont like this test...i think is not correct
Honestly, i don't really take driving/racing games too seriously. I'd rather have a basic G920 like i have right now and enjoy actual driving in my car.
Fairly important to know if you're planning on Drifting, not just racing: You likely will prefer the round wheel of the T300. The Logitech wheel has that cut-out at the bottom that can be problematic for catching the wheel. On the other hand, it may also offer you a point of feedback you can literally feel as it passes beneath your hand. That's not that big of an advantage though - you'll get used to measuring how quickly the wheel moves beneath your hands anyway, while having a spot on the wheel that you can't smoothly grip instantly like anywhere else will fuck with you every now and then.
Another thing with the logitech wheel is the counter steer motion the wheel does naturally is not nearly as strong, causing you to have to “throw” the wheel to counter steer at the proper speed, whereas with the Thrustmaster you can just let go and catch
Well, i have been drifting on my g29 for 5+ years and i can fell my wheel finally giving up do you think Thrustmaster is THAT good? I dont want to be that cocky guy but i can put my car wherever i want while drifting any car. One exemple for my question is when i give a little kiss on the door in the middle of a tandem, i know when the guy have a better wheel and when he has a "tired" logitech just by how much his car move's. What i want to know is, it will be better for hard drifting or will just simulate and kill myself everytime?
@@D3STR01A it will be next level, you will finally feel in full control of the car. Thrustmaster will change your whole perspective on sim racing and you will finally feel real driving, it will not fuck you up at all
@@D3STR01A A change is always going to be a change, and you'll have a worse time until you finish adjusting. That said, mechanically a belt drive is superior to a gear drive, and Thrustmaster has a lot more experience on those than Logitech. So yeah, very likely you'll ultimately end up preferring the T300. Then again, what you don't know won't bother you, yea?
Logitech hasn't changed the design basically since 2008. The G25 has exactly the same base and pedal system which suffered small upgrades. They changed the shifter of the G25 from H pattern and semi auto to just H pattern on the G27. They released the G29/920 exactly having basically the same base and pedals with small improvements completely ditching tthe shifter and selling it separately. And the G923 is the laziest version they released which is literally a G920 with a small upgrade. All of this with a refresh on the original prices. So they're selling this one with the "trueforce" system which is not even available for everything for the same price that G920 was released, almost 10 years ago! If you're on a budget don't even think of buying a G923 new. At least think of the T300 or G29 used. You might get a G27 or a G29 for about 100-150€ which is a good deal. But if you're getting new, go for the T300. I had both, currently own a T300 and I couldn't be happier. For me, going up from here it's a direct drive wheel. Bare in mind I don't have either pedals, I used to have the G29, modded it and still didn't like it, but bought the clubsport V3's from fanatec and it's a total game changer
Just letting u know, Driving force started everything then evolved into G series, basically u can still find same components in Driving force that u can find in newest G series wheel.
do not buy a used g27 or 29, this guys is on acids. wheel is great (go watch other reviews, it's not just 9to5Toys that "gravitated" towards the g923) and logitechs support is amazing, got sent a brand new g923 because I stupidly broke a clamp (yes it's sturdy, I was just stupid). wait for a sale if you have a bit of remorse for 300 euros, i've seen them at sale 250 brand NEW.
I've noticed the true force on the g923 is much more precise than just a rumble pack and event when you hit curbs or go off track it pulls you and not just rumbles
You've unlocked a Pandora's box --- If you haven't already, you have progressive upgrades ahead of you. I started with the G293 -- for a week, and returned it, and got the T300RS. Served me very well for 3 months, and proved that I was all-in on this hobby. Then I upgraded to Fanatec DD. Used that for 2 years, and I'm now happily upgrading again to fit my needs/desires... It's addicting!😁
20 years ago I started with a G25, then I upgraded to Fanatec CSL DD last year. I had to build an aluminium sim rig to mount it all as it’s so powerful- it didn’t just clamp to the desk in a good position (with the table mount kit) It was an awesome setup but it was too big so I sold it recently and will one day go back to a simple desk setup. I don’t recommend going big if you don’t need to- It’s still fun.
I just got the T300 after the force feedback motor died in my G29. The difference in the FFB on the T300 is huge, I can feel every bump on the track, even in F1 22, whereas the G29 only sometimes registered bumps. I am actually faster with the T300 as well
Same thing happened with my G25. And as mentioned in the video, those things are loud! Now i have the T300RS with the T3PA pedals and the H-shifter; It's a lot more money like that but imo also alot better experience.
8:50 Sometimes i play from the hood cam so this for me is actually usefull at times especially when playing at night the revs are bright enough to sense them without looking at them but not too bright to hurt your eyes
I will disagree I was able to try both and the TM T300 blows it away, just upgrade the pedals and you have a system that destroys the Logitech in my opinion. BTW I got the TM load cell pedals.
For years I played on a Logitech From the 25 to the 29. I always enjoyed it except for the noise en the small wheel. A few years ago I got myself my first Fanatec. What a difference. Now I have the GT DD pro. I know it's the brake that makes you faster, but this makes you so much more better.
Trust me, your logitech will last a lifetime. I bought a racing wheel from Logitech back in 2008, with pedals and gear shifter. Still solid and feel like new to this day. Had a lot of Thrustmaster products: Joysticks etc... they get broken after 5 years usually
Just replaced my Logitech G25 because it wouldn't work on PS4 pro so I got the G29 and ACC and must say i'm quite impressed with it. I'm a older gamer and have seen so many contollers and games in my days and just have to say dam were getting spoiled. Bought the wheel and pedal stand for 100 and got the wheel etc for under 300 and wow what a nice set up in front of a decent 60 inch TV. Just luvin it.
Super helpful video. Can I check, if I turn off "true force" on the GT29, will it stop that loud noise? The noise would be a problem for me but I'd be happy to turn it off at night if I had to.
I tried both systems as well before I purchased the T300RS as they were both priced similarly. (I should really say I purchased the G923 first but returned it). The Logitech is just a noisy clunky cog driven box though well presented with leather steering wheel, while the T300RS has smooth and classy feedback. True-force is not well supported in games and basically a gimmick from what I could see just adding even more noise but of no practical benefit. Just get the Thrustmaster. With twice the force feedback, it's the way to go depending on pricing but even at a higher price, I would still buy it over the G923 which has seen minimal improvement since the original G25 hit the market in 2006.
thrustmaster's build quality is so flimsy that it feels like i could break those plastic paddle shifters just by pressing the multiple times lmao looks like im the only person on earth who prefers logitech as someone who was able to test them in the store playing rfactor before i decided for the g29 without any doubt, for me the 'superior ffb mechanism' of t300/t248 doesnt justify their laughable build qualities imo for those reasons if youre getting a mid level wheel might as well pick logitech, thrustmaster is a bit more priced and im not sure why, if youre looking for the best of the best just pick fanatec, thrustmaster seems to be in an awkward position between the two where its not sure if its trying to be better than logitech or compete with it or what
@@lavirtue7329 what are you on dude? my t300 feels way ahead and way better built than my previous wheel which was the logitech g27. be honest, you most likely never have tried out the t300/tx or even the t150/tmx. t248 is all plastic and just straight up feels like a toy. you have no rights to judge other thrustmaster wheels that are definitely superior to the t248. laughable quality? the only thing i can all honestly point out is the case fan, cuz it's really low quality overall, is pretty noisy and gets worn out easily. but that's it. t300 is miles ahead of the inferior logitech g923 that's basically the same wheel as all the previous ones with the same old tech from 2006. logitech keeps making the same products in a new box, which are pretty much a scam honestly. back in the days, when you got the g25/g27 it was an all in one package, wheel, shifter, pedals. and now? you only get the wheel base with pedals for the same price, and that's it. the shifter also got all it's other features cut down. no more buttons, no more switch for choosing between sequential or H pattern shifting. none of that. but yeah keep living in your world of lies, trying to desperately cope over the fact that you paid way too much for an overpriced low effort and low quality wheel.
I had a driving force GT and moved to a T300RS, I prefer it because of the belt driven system has smooth and consistent force on the wheel when driving, so its easier to drift
The t300rs gives a strange smell when playing, it comes from the power supply. Do you also suffer from this? I took the plastic cover off and now it's a little less.
it's funny how some folks are almost offended that someone thinks the logitech wheel wins. confirmation bias much? fact is, the logitech is a great wheel for a beginner and leaves room (for those who like to tinker ) for upgrades. TMs strength here is also it's biggest weakness - if you want an improvement on the wheel or pedals, you just have BUY another wheel that costs sometimes more than half the original kit, same with the pedals. Don't forget that these are toys, and pretty much the starting point for anyone looking to get into sim racing. If you're on a tight budget and want a decent lasting experience, unfortunately logitech is king - if you've got some more money to throw at it, go for the TM but expect to be adding more stuff to your already long wishlist
with the Logitech, I had the g920 and the brake pedal was super stiff. I found out there is a rubber rectangle piece in the spring to make it harder to push down. If you want it to be easier unscrew the bottom plate and the brake spring. it will come out.
You're supposed to calibrate your pedals in-game, with the 100% point of the brake throw being at the point you're pushing very hard on the pedal, so that when you're actually racing the pedal feels like a real world brake pedal, and modulation of the brakes at that firm point gives much greater control over the vehicle during deceleration, without needing to resort to ABS, or locking up all the time. But, most people don't understand that, it seems. Heard so many people pull out the block. You'll shake your head at how silly it is to take it out if you ever get yourself a pedal set with a load cell brake pedal, because they FEEL exactly the same as the Logitech pedal with the block still installed.
@@xxTICxxTOCxx on t300, if you use the brake mod, calibrates itself every time you power on the wheel. You dont have to press the brake all the way to rich 100%. It works really well and feels like loadcell. You brake with muscle memory.
i currently use a simucube 2 pro direct drive system which is basically the best you can get besides the simucube ultimate, ive had a t300rs and a g29 and everything inbetween and im quite surprised that a new user like yourself would choose the g923. For me the number one priority over almost everything else with a FFB wheel is the smoothness, i mean think about it the single job this product has is to replicate the feeling of driving a car, when you turn the wheel of the g29/920/923 you can literally count the steps in the cogs which immediately tells the user this is nothing like a real car (unless that real car is very broken). the t300 at least gets somewhat close, it even feels smoother than its bigger brother the TGT and the TGT is double the price. i totally understand when it comes to the pedals though, the t300rs has terrible pedals and the RS GT version is not much better really but the thrustmaster ecosystem at least allows you to upgrade to load cell pedals if you wish and there are lots of very cheap mods on the market for the GT pedals to improve the feel, i dont think id choose the notchier wheel based on what pedals it comes with but i somewhat understand why you might. many people say the notchy feeling does not bother them because they basically forget about it when driving but i think thats a bit of a lie honestly, some people cant afford a better product and so will defend what they have no matter what but the reality is they cant say it feels like a car, it just dont. i even had a fanatec DD1 before the simucube which i had the same problem with, nothing like as bad as a g29 ofcourse, but the same problem exists, move the wheel slowly and you can count the steps between the motor magnets, for rolls royce money in the sim racing world its just not acceptable to me, these things are designed for immersion and fun, at that price it must at least be smooth like a car. i guess for the price of the logitech it can be forgiven, it does offer some respectable feedback afterall, but over a t300? nah.
@@katman2192 i can only agree about support, my experience with thrustmaster has been pretty bad. reliability not so much an issue from what ive experienced myself but ofcourse it has been known to overheat and lose ffb power, forcing the fan on i believe does help in that regard.
@@jinx20001 after seeing all the options and opinions I think I will go with the g29 as the price difference currently on amazon is 237 for the g29 compared to 449 for the t300 which is crazy when I can get the g29, Shifter, and F-GT Lite (Chair/ cockpit) for just a little over the cost of t300 and that's a full (Budget, of course) Rig
Yup, I have a g923 that I bought just to get my feet wet, knowing that if I stuck with it I would upgrade to a fanatec. I knew that it wouldn't be as smooth and accurate as a higher priced wheel, but it's definitely rough around the edges. I find myself quitting if I've been playing for a while, not because I'm bored but because of the obnoxious noise and rattling. I tried a friend's fanatec and now I dislike the g923. But that's like owning a mustang GT then hopping into a Porsche gt3rs.
I agree 100%. I bought a g920 a year or so ago and I got rid of it after a week. I coulnd't stand the noise and how not smooth at all it was especially when turning the wheel slower. I was disgusted with it and myself because I failed to do proper research before buying, but I had no idea these problems could exist. I haven't tried the Thrustmaster wheel but boy let me tell you I wouldn't get a Logitech rattling wheel ever again.
I have a G27 that I used for many years way back in the day. Back then, I absolutely loved my G27. I felt that it was so realistic and very strong. Then, I went to a tournament where they had proper rigs using the T500RS mounted in a nice cockpit. The strength and clarity of that wheel was an eye opener. From that moment on, I knew I needed a better wheel. Fast forward to today, I am using a T300RS. It maybe not as good as.a proper DD model from Fanatec, but it was relatively affordable and upgradeable. I know own 3 rims and a cockpit, and my experience is so much better than all those years ago. Also, I can basically just buy the new Thrustmaster DD wheelbase and mount my rims to it, so that'll be an easy upgrade down the line. So I definitely recommend the T300RS, and the whole Thrustmaster ecosystem over Logitech. But that is just my experience.
My hopes are that TM actually market something decent with their DD... I know they've confirmed it to be compatible with existing add-ons, meaning pedals and shifters and the like, but I'm not 100% sure if they're keeping their current "quick release". This plasticcy contraption has to be able to withstand however many nm of torque, certainly a good deal more than their current line-up is able to put out. I really hope they can make this work, maybe use different materials? Gotta say the connect on my t300 was dead solid, no play or anything. Happy with my CSL DD but that needs a €100 qr1 to be as solid. Bang for buck the TM is hard to beat, I almost dread the idea of selling it?!
@@frankdiehl8749 I was thinking about this just last night. I'm just one person with limited manufacturing capability, but I am sure I could engineer a quick release system that could be screwed onto the existing system. If TM were to really tackle this issue, I am sure they could also engineer such a solution, and with their manufacturing capacity, offer it as a relatively affordable accesory. So, I'm hoping TM does a good job with their new DD wheelbase and "quickrelease system."
@@RobCabreraCh TM could really undercut Fanatec if they play their cards right. Where the smaller players in the DD market just cannot in terms of regional availability, support(I've found Fanatec to be quite decent, but I'm a stone's throw away relatively from their operation in Germany.)and the outright ability to market things at a feasible price. Fanatec tried to do things the Apple way, and have only quite recently pulled the plug on their €120 PSU for the CSL DD. Now we don't get to buy the sub €400 CSL, and source the PSU from China. It's quite bad, it's not a good look. TM can absolutely kill it here, but I have my reservations unless they've sacked some of their marketing team.
I had this with a much older wheel (an AVB Force Feedback, and I will add that I might not have games taking full advantage of it) that I used years a go and a second hand CSL DD set I tested for a bit before buying it from an eBay like ad. The very first moment the car lost control it felt EXACTLY like the couple of times I had the luck of having some driving lessons in the snow, and my instructor took me to a parking lot without curbs to make me experience what skidding was like. That was absolutely wild, I was able to feel so much more (and it's almost a shame it's going to be used in a slow-paced simulator setup :D )
I bought the gear shifter for my G923 and was intending to start using the clutch pedal, but for driving games I mainly do rally so found it worked so much better binding the clutch pedal to the handbrake - trying to find a specific button on the wheel when you're halfway around a corner with the wheel all over the place is nigh impossible but the clutch pedal is always where I left it :)
Had a T300RS and it broke 2 months after warranty ends (14 months total). It is the overheating problem, not even with the fan at 100% it can be trusted, since mine was very mildly used. Thrustmaster tried to charge me almost the same price as new to repair! The money went to a Logitech G29, running smooth for 3 years so far and looking and feeling just as new!
I think it’s mostly personal preference. You’re very lucky to have been able to compare both irl. I did many hours of research before landing on the T300 RS GT. I will say the response of the T300 is insane. I’m coming from an over decade old for Fanatec Forza CSR wheel. I believe that was also belt driven, and although it was a “budget” wheel (still around $350-400 all said and done) I found it to perform quite well, albeit way too small of a wheel and you couldn’t change it. However, it does still work and I do occasionally use it on my 360 to play Forza 4. The T300 is noticeably more powerful and quick to respond. It is bigger, although not by much, I still find it to be too small. I would highly recommend messing with the settings a bit until you get to a point you like as I wasn’t particularly happy with the default. I ended up choosing the T300 because I really like strong FFB, and you can always drop it down but there’s no going up (however the default on the T300 was 75% overall strength, so in its case you can go up, I’m not sure about the Logitech). Unless your willing to spend about a grand, the T300, I feel, is probably the best you can get. I’m sure others will disagree, however like I said, I think a lot of it is personal preference, and price point. I would recommend anyone looking for wheel to check out “OC Racing” as well, he has tons of videos reviewing and comparing just about every wheel you can buy. Great video!
Adam....CSR's are still one of the best wheels ever made for the Xbox 360,classic's like FM3/4 and F1 2010 up till 2013 can't be played on Backwards Capability(due to licenses)...don't get rid of your CSR they are very rare to find these days and will be collectibles in the future.
You should definitely look at getting a fanatec CSL or CSL elite (Xbox or PlayStation), if you wait and look for a good deal you can literally get a setup for less than 400 bucks rn and it will be a big upgrade from your t300. I love the t300 and had one for several months but the newer fanatec (obviously now it’s previous gen after the release of the CSL DD last year) is different gravy from anything Logitech or Thrustmaster and honestly still stacks up pretty well against the CSL dd
I just upgraded from a Fanatec CSR to a Thrustmaster TX as I jumped to the Xbox Series X. The TX was actually cheaper than the CSR was back then (I got it on clearance at 299 with the T3PA and the leather rim). The Thrustmaster are way worse than the ones from the CSR as they are mostly plastic and lack any kind of adjustment whatsoever but the rim is leaps beyond of the plastic rim of the CSR. The CSR included artificial vibration for the ABS and engine rumble which was a bit odd but I got to used to it and I kinda missed it. I had to change the default FFB settings on FH5 (XSX) to suit my needs since the TX also lacks the on-the-wheel setting adjustments the CSR had but overall it was a nice step-up. Now I have to figure out how can I use my CSR pedals with my TX wheel
@@markvanwalsem3201 I’ve still got it, and it still works. Just had it running! It’ll either die with me or last forever. I don’t ever plan on selling it but you’re right.
Before going for direct drive wheel, get some decent pedals with a loadcell brake. Thrustmaster or fanatec have well priced offerings. Pedals make more of a difference in lap time than any wheel. Also if you buy a cockpit, make sure you buy one that's rigid enough for a dd wheel as well.
I disagree, yes, pedals make a huge difference, but the wheel sort of is your connection to the track and therefore it’s very important just bc you can feel the grip alot better.
@@MrTee-uy5tl the wheel helps you to be more consistent with your laps and a good wheel can save from a spin form time to time but the pedals man make the most differences in laptime, and the loadcell help even the consistency a lot
I have the T300RS GT, the only thing driving me nuts is, that the software confuses the gas with the clutch. I wasn’t able to change that, so I have to change the bindings in game..
I bought a G29 back in February last year. With the H-Pattern shifter the whole package came to about £260. If I could go back and get the G923 I wouldn't. From what I have seen of it, the brake pedal upgrade and the true force are not worth the increased price tag. I have not used the T300 so I won't comment on it, however, if you are looking for a good starter package on a budget then I would look at the G29/920 NOT the 923.
I got a G29 w/ H shifter for about $250 USD earlier this year and I absolutely love it. I'm sure it's nothing compared to say a Fanatec but it fits within my budget well.
I always recomend logitech for ppl starting out in sim. Its a complete package and best bang for your buck. Once they find out if they wanna delve deeper into sim or not they can go out and buy more expensive professional wheels or keep that one for the occasional use.
@@Penqvino Both have pros and cons but should be about equal. Just depends on what you prefer. Logitech has nicer wheel with the leather, but TM has better pedals if you don't mod the logitech ones and also Tm has a smoother steering feel (Belt vs gear). Warranty is longer on logitech too and has better mounting options. Personally i got a G27 a few years ago so i could use it on both my PS3 and PC.
@@Penqvino T300, maybe a little more pricey to start with, but if you do enjoy racing you'll feel no need to upgrade unless you start to get really hardcore serious about it
Be careful with the g923, my cables broke with less than a year of use (and i maybe used it 3-4 times a month). Felt kinda clunky too, wouldnt recommend over the long run
I went with the G920 as I couldn't convince myself to spend the $30 extra or so to upgrade to the G923. I'm glad you mentioned the smell of the wheel....I noticed right away the leather smells like leather! The clamp system is awesome as I am in a similar position. I pack up my wheel when I'm done playing, as my desk is also my work desk. I had first bought the TM T80 but it came with a broken gas pedal. That really soured me on Thrustmaster wheels - But, that said, the high end Thrustmaster wheels do look pretty cool.
I've been using a G920 for about 5 years now. It's been a solid wheel for me and surprisingly still works like new. When it does finally die I'll probably upgrade to a Moza or something but it just keeps on working so no complaints.
Everyone always complaining about the Logitech G923 being loud and then theres me who put my speakers to max volume and dont even hear my own toughts while playing😂
The price here in New Zealand is about $450 for the G923 and $900 for the Thrustmaster T300RS. Doesn't seem like a fair comparison when one wheel is twice the price of the other?
Couldn't agree more. I just switched from the G29 to the T300 RS GT. Best decision i've made in a long time. Totally worth the extra cheddar. Better in every way.
just wanted to say, as you chose the Logitech for its pedals, a common thing we do in the sim racing world is get a wheelbase like a T300RS and then using separate pedals such as Fanatec. incredible improvement compared to both thrustmaster and Logitech
I think the t300 is far better than the g923, the design doesn't change, and is identical to the previous models (just different colors) and the little things that changed (trueforce,which basically is just a device that converts audio to vibration, and the brake pedal) aren't worth the price jump between previous wheels.
thats crazy he said the opposite of what everyone else says in the community . Ive owned just about every logitech wheel from one of the first ones that came with a set of speakers and Gran Turismo 3 . they all have the grainy feeling being gear driven . It just does not feel like an actual car , and when i finally got my t300 years ago that was the immediate difference I noticed . Also i have not used my dads g293 , but from holding the wheel im not too fond of the smaller wheel shape and feel , and have no opinion on pedals either . BUT with the TP3a Pro pedal set the thrustmaster is the mid tier king
I returned the 923 with in a week and got the t300 so much better in every way. Maybe u didnt have it updated or had bad settings? I cant fathom how anyone would choose the 923 over the t300. Of course this was awhile ago and ive since upgraded several times and currently have the dd extreme and a tgt2
Great video. After playing Gran Turismo in my psvr2 I quickly came to the realization I needed a wheel and pedals. I have been torn between these two wheels or forking out the extra money and buying more expensive wheel. Thanks for the info
Having had the logitech DFGT (2 years), G27 (4 years with a caveat), T300RS (6 years) and now a CSL DD (2 years), after all that time? I can safely say this. If you HAVE to choose (because of budget constraints) either the G series or T300? ALWAYS get the T300 hands down, here's why... The G series first wheel was the G25 with 2.4nm torque but it didn't have the helical gears so it was louder than the G27 (as was my DFGT which also had 2.4nm) whilst the helical gears reduce noise they're weaker but, because the base of each tooth is narrower they would break more easily, to combat this the G27 and all models since have reduced torque to 2.1/2.2nm maximum, even then I had 2 through broken teeth. Because the T300 is belt driven it's got 3.4nm torque and is practically BOMBPROOF, the only issue I had was when an updated software/firmware cause it to spin too fast during calibration which chattered the mechanical stop at one end of it's rotation, this happened about a year after it launched (just after I got mine) but I RMA'd it without issue for a replacement as TM were aware it was a bad update that caused the damage. The biggest flaw of the T300 (and the logitechs additional issue) is the pedals. They both use potentiometers connected by geared cams to the pedal pivot, almost directly underneath the big hole the pedal arm passes through, these geared cams are of course lubricated but this makes their issue worse, that issue being dust, dirt or hair ingress becoming trapped in these geared mechanisms. This issue manifests itself in 4 possible ways.. 1) Pedal fluttering, in the calibration page you might see the meter fluttering between 0-5%, if it's the brake then you'll see other players out driving you on straights for no apparent reason, you'd also notice the brake lights coming on in replays or if using chase cam. you CAN compensate by applying a deadzone in this case or try cleaning the gears, I'll get to this issue in a bit. 2) Pedal stuttering, as you depress the pedal it'll appear to stutter, essentially it'll stop/start during the motion. 3) Being unable to reach 100%, in the calibration screen it'll top out at between 95-98%, and flutter as with No 1, it's the same issue for all 3 just dirt but in different parts of the gearing. 4) Potentiometer damage, they're mechanical variable potentiometers which have a contact patch and a sweep arm that rides along this patch changing the electrical resistance which the base reads as a set position, but, being mechanical they DO wear out after prolonged life/usage, they can be replaced but like cleaning mentioned below you can bork the pedals.. This can be cause by even fibres from your socks, stray cat/dog/human hairs, lint, dust or dirt Worst case is encountering all 3 at the same time on all 3 pedals (trust me been there and got the T-shirt hat AND shades for BOTH G series and T300 pedals). You CAN attempt cleaning the gears but be warned! You should NEVER remove the u shaped mount from the upper housing doing so CAN cause the gears to detach and they're nigh on impossible to refit correctly, just 1 tooth out of position and you lose a HUGE amount of pedal travel. Yeah the G923 has the progressive spring to give increasing resistance to the brake but it's still not great. You're still predominately using foot position to hit the max braking without locking up. This is a MAJOR advantage for the T3PA pedals with the T300RS, the conical brake mod they come supplied with, when fitted, adjusted and then calibrated it gives you a certain amount of progressively increasing resistance right at the end of brake travel, yeas you lose a small amount of travel as a result but one you calibrate them in whatever games you own so the hardest pressure you can apply is "max braking" you rapidly master the pressure feedback at the point the brakes will lock up, you're then using "muscle memory" instead of foot angle, this is far more accurate to judge and rapidly becomes instinctive, after a while you'll begin "playing on the brakes", allowing much easier mastery of trail braking (braking later harder on approach then gradually reducing pressure as you turn into the apex), you gain massive amounts of confidence on the brakes and a considerable reduction in laptimes because of the added reliability foot pressure has over foot angle. My biggest tip for anyone thinking of the T300 relates to the base being nigh on bombproof mechanically, if budget is critical? Get a 2nd hand wheelbase and rim (there's also the Alcantara wrapped rims to consider if the plastic one isn't enough) Why go 2nd hand though? You can save half the new price or more and that bombproof mech means even a 6-8 year old wheelbase will STILL be rock solid, the BIG plus is this will leave you enough funds to bypass the T3PA pedals and instead get the TL-CM set which have 3 MAJOR advantages. 1) Loadcell brake pedal, as with the conical mod a loadcell provides tactile pressure at maximum travel, it uses a strain gauge which changes resistance to electricity fed through it, much more reliable than potentiometers as there's no moving rubbing parts just a flexing part that changes the resistance, making them an order of magnitude more reliable and with a much MUCH longer lifespan. 2) The gas and clutch use hall effect sensors instead of potentiometers & geared connections, this is a magnet on the pedal arm and a magnetic field sensor under the pedal, as the pedal is pressed the magnet moves in relation to the sensor changing is resistance, the only moving part is the pedal arm, dust can still get in but the only side effect is likely to be a squeaking which a drop of oil can eliminate, like the loadcell, longer lifespan, more reliable, more accurate (due to infinite progression instead of multi-stepped progression of a potentiometer) and a doddle to maintain. 3) Even better than the conical mod as the progressive pressure starts increasing as soon as you touch the pedal face you ALWAYS have pressure underfoot making accurate precise braking completely 2nd nature in hours compared to just judging foot angle, your heel could move on the footplate, doesn't matter you still have that pressure underfoot and the muscle memory tied to it. Sure it won't completely eliminate lockups, I'd be lying if I said it does but it's 99% reduced compared to the G series or T3PA pedals. You DON'T need a direct drive costing £700-2000, a T300RS with any loadcell brakes can let you compete against the uber expensive gear trust me on this if nothing else.. Me with T300RS and Fanatec V3 pedals with loadcell brake vs a guy in a full motion rig, VR headset Fanatec CSW 2.5 (7nm wheelbase iirc) after owning my V3's for just 3 days... th-cam.com/video/wPf6N3bsLk4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZzBjLaIwnlKFoOrd Finally.. For those coming from controller to a wheel (especially if you've never driven a car)... Avoid games you know well when you 1st get your wheel.. Why do I say this? Any game you play on controller for a prolonged time builds up a set of "controller habits", braking points, acceleration points, turn in points etc. By using a known game with your 1st wheel you're not just learning an old game anew, your actively fighting against those controller instincts and trying to rewrite the brain all at once. E.G. when I got my old DFGT to play Race Driver Grid and Dirt 3 was due to launch I tried for over 3 MONTHS to beat my PB's in Grid but it just didn't happen. When Dirt 3 came out I'd never used the controller on it, I learned from scratch to play the game and use the wheel. it still took 3 or 4 weeks to create the wheel habits and instinctively control the cars but ohhh boy! when I went back to Grid my laptimes TUMBLED as a result. The wheel gave me the capability to do stuff like this... th-cam.com/video/LAso3TDYGUc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k1NYAGUdXfLacoO3 This... th-cam.com/video/BsjsUeQEAz0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gzqEe49emfdYMjwk This... while reaching 2nd on the ESL 1 v 1 Drift battle ladder. th-cam.com/video/b28tIPKu6yk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=43TPwbO5D3QQAfog These.. Just for the hell of it! th-cam.com/video/_JVbI4WtISM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JngKVIQT28aLVV9f th-cam.com/video/M9n6FM0Ak48/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CanzyegmSsuHphYd th-cam.com/video/5k3Ym-JWWTI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tSbHjmUNbvV9dCgh Now I'm doing this with the CSL DD vs some SERIOUSLY quick guys... th-cam.com/video/8DWnkFnRpxA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eY-sXYBDJ5a3Ovze
@@puppy6002absolutely bulletproof, never had any issues with the wheelbase in 6 years of daily use, from what I hear atm Logitech keep screwing up their drivers with every update. E.G. in AMS2 I see "My wheel stopped working" fairly often after a game update if it's anything BUT logitech the advice is usually "re-assigning the controls solves the problem". Everytime Logitech roll out a new update for GHub or the player in question has a logitech wheel? "You might wanna roll back the GHub software cause this happens EVERYTIME they update that garbage" The only thing bad with the T300RS is the pedals and dust/dirt gumming up the mechs (Though the logitech pedals also suffer this issue), if you CAN, get the Thrustmaster T-LCM loadcell pedals as they plug into the T300, TX or TMX wheelbases directly, or you can get an adapter to use USB. Seen them for as little as £50-60 on Ebay and the T300 itself for £100. Don't buy it new either! If you have that kinda cash (£350-370) get a direct drive wheel instead.. Moza do their 3nm bundle for £399 (3.9nm peak torque) in clamp and 2 pedal set. Cammus do a 5NM wheelbase, table clamp and dual pedal set for £259 (excluding tax iirc) or £311 and change in the UK and you can then get the T-LCM's 2nd hand for the same price as the T300RS GTE (£379.99 inc tax). So £379.99 for the 3.4nm T300 with iffy potentiometer pedals direct from Thrustmaster. £399 for the Moza R 3, 3.9nm bundle with clamp and dual hall effect sensor pedal set. £311 for the 5nm Cammus C5 5.5nm bundle with desk clamp & dual hall effect sensor pedal set. Add £50-60 and get the T-LCM hall effect and loadcell 3 pedal set from ebay if you're on PC, (you can't use dual input controls on console iirc).
@@puppy6002 Sad to hear that but bear in mind the T300 can be had cheaper than a new G923 via Ebay, plus given they're practically bombproof even a wheel bought by it's owner in 2014 will still be really reliable, you'll also get close to 2 times the torque of a G923, 2.1nm vs 3.9nm and almost no noise when in use. The G-series clatter like MAD, so much that they can be heard throughout the house and can even annoy your neighbours as a result. I remember a comment on a FB post from a guy asking if upgrading from a logitech G29 was worth it as his wife was complaining about the noise keeping her awake. I just replied saying "Hell yeah even a T300 will stop her having to complain, a direct drive will be almost silent, if she complains about the price you can at least say "well I bought it so I don't keep you awake when I'm racing so I'm thinking about you as well darling!". if she still complains? Just throw open her wardrobe and point at it's contents..." I got a message back saying "DAMN that worked, you're a GENIUS!!" Joking aside though, the noise is a huge problem with the geared wheels, if even a 2nd hand T300 is too expensive then maybe consider the TX or TMX (Pro versions come with the 3 pedal set which are same as the Logitech ones but have a conical brake mod as well) £90 ($113US) vs £50 ($63US), though like I said I wouldn't buy a 2nd hand logitech as you can't guarantee it's age...
@@ilkarusei Well I got the wheel. I suck at it but I think I have to adjust the force feedback settings to make it more comfortable. Otherwise it's hard to control. I got the vr2 and only used it 1 day because I got crazy motion sickness. I'm told it's temporary for new users. Did you experience it? It messed me up for the whole day and I haven't touched it for 2 weeks 😂
@@jeffghant4760 I only play Beat saber so far. The only game that never gives sickness, and with infinit replayability) But I know, motion sickness is an issue. I had psvr for many years and never trained myself to fully resist it. I've tried Gran Turismo sport with it, and it was pretty bad The only thing I can recommend -- stop playing with the first signes of sickness. Then you can resume in 30-60 minutes, and step by step have longer sessions (initially it can be like just a few minutes)
solid review. I have the G920 and its not bad, but i just hate it for drifting in Assetto Corsa because it just doesn't rotate fast enough for me, i feel like im constantly feeding it, but for regular road racing, you absolutely cant go wrong with the g923, my friends that have it love it
I used to borrow a t150 thrustmaster and although it was not ideal I could drift pretty good with it in AC. Now I own a G29 and I cant seem to do it anymore, for racing it's perfect but for drifting it's just too slow.
Dude, just install CM launcher for AC, config the wheel with LUT calibration and activate the " enhaced FFB response " and you are ready to drift like ken block. No more throw. Feels like another wheel.
The G920 and G923 are both a piece of shit compared to a T300rs, The T300rs is way superior with the forcefeedback. It's fast and give you very clear feedback. Even the T150rs is way better than the Logitech, if you say otherwise you have never driven any of these Thrustmaster wheels.
I went with the Logitech sure to it's ability to be modded and support. I have a actual real car aftermarket steering wheel attached to mine. The pedals are not great, but you can take them apart also and invert them and space them further apart
A major point not brought up in any videos I've seen yet about the G923 is the power cord. If the power cord is damaged you must take the wheel apart. Good luck finding a quick replacement cord. The Thrustmaster power cord you simply plug into the wheel. If it gets damaged you do not need to take the wheel apart to fix.
wtf are you talking about? the g923 powercord is plugged in on the underside of the base just like the pedals.... the only thing you need to do is release the desk mount to access it... your claim that the wheel needs to be taken apart is a straight up lie
I have a G920. Here's a video I used when I had to replace the cord: th-cam.com/video/DxT2UOmHN-I/w-d-xo.html At 37:39 you get a good look at how the cord is plugged in. Note this video is for the PlayStation G29 specifically. In the G923 videos I have seen it looks the same as the G920. So, you are saying the G923 is different from the G920 in that way? That would be cool if so. If you can point us to a video or pictures showing what you are talking about that would be nice. @@stefanforrer2573
Considering the low force feedback strength gives you better driving pleasure. Other than this, for those who really cares about simracing have to increase the force strength. If you search for G29s, T300s, Fanatechs, will see the exact observable differences between models.
I prefer the Thrustmaster and you can get different pedal sets; I have 2 T300 RS - one on my Playseat Formula 1 Pro Red with the SF1000 F1 wheel and TLCM pedals and one on my Playseat Evolution with the Alcanterra Integral wheel and T3PA pedals for GT Racing and Truck Simulator and Farm Simulator; solid products IMO
@@nuggyfresh6430 I had a Logitech G 27 years ago; but yes never tried one lately; on PC; I like that you can have different wheel rims on the Thrustmaster eh :)
I found the g923 for 225€ basically brand new and I was wondering whether or not I should go for it instead of t300rs gt. This will be my first gaming wheel, and I don't won't to regret my decision later but can you wrong with such a deal?
So i just tried out the 923 today at a demo at bestbuy. Yes it's loud, but i doubt it would be bothersome with tv sound on or headphones. My biggest feedback would be that people say the forcefeedback isnt strong like the belt driven thrustmaster. In my opinion, i dont know how strong you want thrme feedback to be, my wow does the 923 have some torque - I'd say anything stronger and you'd be fighting the steering wheel. I dont see the 923 feedback being weak - it's plenty strong to rip from your hands if you're not paying attention. Another cool thing - when you rev the engine, the steering wheel shakes 👍🏻
i was looking and making some searches and then i found that a T300RS GT + shifter and a suport for shifter and handbrake is only 1 euro more than a g923+shifter+ wheel stand 2.0 and for my scenario its rly better a T300RS GT
I have a thrustmaster TMX which I’m adding the tlcm pedals and a TH8A gear stick overall a very nice set up and been using thrustmaster for a while now and very impressed with the quality
@@Voltomess belt can get a bit noisy ive had the steering wheel for a couple years now the t3pm pedals are great with spring loaded brake pedal and the clutch has very good resistance The TH8A gear shifter is very nice to use however can be tricky having to plug in from Xbox to pc I tend to leave the pc connector plugged in so I can switch them over For pc usage the gear stick runs on a usb to the computer For Xbox it plugs into the steering wheel Very nice quality for the money
Tl;DR: (a kind of PSA) with work the TM pedals can feel good. I got mine to ~ 80% as good as loadcell. I hear you on that pedal feel (T3PA or T3PG) the included conical mod feels tteeeerrrible, unless you are a tinkerer, and can sink some time into fiddling with a wrench and settings. Full disclosure I eventually upgraded to the TLCM loadcell pedals but not before sinking a handful of evenings into tweaking. And the brake felt good *as long as the pedals were bolted down*. Here’s how I got there in case anyone is interested: Step 1: fiddle with conical mod and locknut to get it as close to pedal as possible. (The nut goes on threaded section BETWEEN the cone and vertical attachment arm thing. Set the distance of the cone then lock in place by tightening nut twds arm) Step 2: bolt down pedals (or at minimum trap edge closest to you so it can’t flip up) Step 3: load game. Some have adjustments in game (only option for console users) or use maybe the control panel on a pc… I did this on Xbox. First press pedal hard to auto-calibrate it after the wheel does it’s spinning. 4: In ACC there is brake Gamma and Deadzone. First adjust deadzone so that when you feel like you’re pressing as hard as you would to slam brakes that the full force of breaking is registered. (By default with cone installed it’ll be hard to get past 20-40%, as you increase deadzone the brake will move twds 100%… try not to overshoot. You get to choose how hard you press) 5 : now you should be able to apply 100% brakes but it’ll be twitchy and hard to control. This is where gamma comes in. It adjust the linearity of the input. Because it’s easier at first then gets harder and harder to press the pedal into the rubber, adjust so a large movement early = little game input and a small movement at end of travel makes a large in game input. Basically lowering the sensitivity at beginning of travel, then increases more and more the more you press. (The setting for that gamma will vary greatly based on how far, physically the cone is from the brake arm. But I had values around 1.5 up to 4 … I think. Tiny numerical adjustments make a large difference. ) Here’s how I did that: I looked away and pressed the pedal until I was at “half pressure” feel and then looked at the brake meter. If it was super low or high I adjust the gamma a click. Tried again. Etc. Once it showed what I felt. I tried putting in a light/low amount and a harder/higher adjusting the gamma again. With a little time I got it feeling natural. You may have to fiddle with deadzone up or down a few clicks once gamma is close. And fyi every change of cone position (like 1/4 turn on the threads) will completely change the deadzone and gamma settings) Note: This lowers the overall resolution of the sensor but replaces your need for position-memory with pressure-memory… in theory. 6 : race at least 2 hrs without adjusting settings 7 : refine if needed. Then if it’s anywhere near close to useable, *don’t adjust the settings anymore*. Very important. The whole point is to give you muscle-memory, and that only forms over time and resets every time you make big adjustments, so horseshoes and handgrenades. Close is good. Time for Laps laps laps. That’s it! Sorry I didn’t have enough time to make that shorter😅 it’s really fiddly but if you put in the time it’s seriously a massive upgrade. I was actually disappointed slightly when buying a real loadcell that the improvement wasn’t as large. It’s a time vs $ thing. If you have more time, try this. If you have more $ buy the T-LCM (they’re pretty great btw)
I have a g923, I take all the points you mention for granted, it must be emphasized that the cable system is quite rudimentary in the g923, it can be accommodated, it is not something difficult to do so that it does not deteriorate quickly, due to feeding and sensation I have played ACC and Gran turismo 7, in addition to DIRT RALLY and Gran turismo Sports, they all have an excellent sensation in terms of Force feedback GTS AND ACC how many with the acceleration sensation depending on what type of car you are using, anyway These are details that add to the experience.
It's amazing how opinions are so different. "no, that one sucks get this!" lol I've read some interesting stuff while shopping around for a replacement for my broken G26. G923 is usually said to have better build quality and quicker response FFB. Plus far better pedals. T300 better for drifting/smoother, stronger FFB. And you can get some pretty good pedals with one of the special editions. The biggest problem right now is price. T300 is $470 while G923 is $350. For me, slower FFB and way higher price are deal breakers. Leaning towards G923.
Is it possible to completely deactivate the Vibrations on the Logitech G923? Thats something i'm really worried about, i actually just want a smooth steering experience and no vibrations/sounds at all.
Logietc G 923 with a 14" steering wheel Also uses the clutch as a handbrake, where a cable between the handbrake lever and the pedal does the job! Amazing feeling!
The thrustmaster allows for the wheel to be changed. So if I had an Xbox wheel could I change to a PlayStation wheel? I have both systems and hate the idea of buying two separate wheels
The g920 is a better wheel over the 923.. Almost half the price! Exactly the same internally. The only difference is they play the sound from the game to add a little more rumble! It's terrible.. Get the - G920 for xbox.. G29 for PlayStation!
Everyone has their preferences, I personally have tried both and preferred the Thrustmaster, But if the Logitech feels better then don't get hung up on specs or brand. Do what feels right and that's how you end up with something you enjoy.
the g923 is essentially the same as a g25 that was released in 2006, it got some (slight) upgrades over the years buts thats it They also ditched the fantastic shifter on the g25 with many buttons and even seqential mode. oh yeah and they are not even including the shifter in the box btw
Moved from t150 to t300. Feels a lot of difference in sense of wheel speed rotation. By ffb or by hand, so it's made me better at rallying. Plus can get custom and quite cheap rims, just using baseplate from stock rim, so unscrew 6 central hex bolts and you're done. Got mine gt3 BMW M6 wheel for about 40 USD made from aluminium plate and 3d printed handles. Also custom wheel is lighter so ffb is more accurate and rim is wider, like in real car.
And you can upgrade the pedals to the TLCM load cell pedals that are not expensive , and you end up with a better customizable wheel, better wheel base with more power and not noisy, and a way better load cell pedals, that has nothing to envy to a DD wheel set. I just upgraded the pedals because didn´t like the standard ones that came with my T300 RS GT and inmediately took off several seconds from my lap times. This TM set is a no brainer vs the noisy Logitec, obviously mounted in a cockpit.
As far as the loudness I play ETS2 n ATS I just found n bought the g923 is there a way in the settings were I can lower the true force n feedback because the games I play is more of a slow simulation and I may not need all of the toro are true force feedback good stuff man
The logitech g29 is a great wheel especially because brand new its often available for $200 usd on Amazon i bought mine about 3 yrs ago at the height of the pandemic i wouldve got the t300rs gt but the price was significantly higher I've finally upgraded to the fanatec gt dd pro but still have my g29 for now so I haven't used the fanatec yet while the ffb on the g29 isn't the strongest it gets the job done for arguably the actual best budget wheel
Ive always used the controller for racing games but recently ive been looking at these two. As a first time user of a wheel for racing sims, i guess ill be amazed with whatever one i choose. Ill be using it on xbox series x for wrc and Forza games.
for just a little bit more you could have had a direct drive setup, a moza r5 with pedals would cost you 500 or 600 euro depending on where you are in the world. and you can't compare a direct drive setup with either of those two you tried, but they still are great for a starter...
My g923 stopped working just 2 months after I bought it! Then got a replacement and one of the pedals would not register at all... so third time around and a headache of customer support i got another replacement(they wouldn't just replace the pedals) and the vibration noise was 10x worst then the first too... in the end I sold it and got a Thrustmaster T300RS and im just loving it! only issues is sometimes I forget to switch modes when going from PC to PS5 and I have to unplug and plug it back in with the switch put to the mode I want. Other then that I will only recommend Thrustmaster now!
Awesome review! I bought my son the 923 it was on sale on Amazon recently then I seen your video regarding the other one. I do like the belt mechanism on the other wheel but my kid is 9 I think he will be good with the 923. Plan on buying the GT OMEGA APEX Wheel Stand do u happen to know where I can by the cockpit seat? Or does anyone else reading this comment know where I can find the seat? Per amazon said it’s upgradable to buy that part and online I seen it was sold out so trying to find replacement if needed. Thanks!
If you had hardmounted them your conclusion would be very different But aparently the G923 is probably the best wheel for desk mount and pedals on the ground
the thrustmaster ecosystem gives you much more customization, you can adapt full size real wheel, or go whith their 1:1 sparco rally wheel, f1 wheels etc.. you can always go to TCL-M Pedals for what I would say are th most realistic to an actual car with spring damper customization for the brake, the Thrustmaster TH8A shifter is much more premium and full metal vs logitechs plastic toy shifter. yes the logitech is better if you are only desk mounting, but thrustmaster takes the cake when it is in a proper wheel cockpit or even a stand. Where it really shines is in rally and drift.
I have had the pleasure to test both of these and for me T300 is so much better than G923 in terms of feedback. G923 feels like it tries to give you some vibration into hands, but it doesnt tell you what is happening, because the force is so small. The only downside is the brake pedal on T300, it requires quite a bit of force with the mod, and i feel like you need to mount it to actually use the mod correctly, but the g923 pedals arent really that good either so...
Nice review. I've got a G923 and aside from the noise, it's a nice system to live with. Great interface, premium build quality and finish and impressive pedals. The optional shifter is a disappointment though, I'd love to pair up the Thrust master T8HA shifter with the G923 wheel.
I’ve had the T300 for about 6 months now and so happy with it. Just bought a wheel stand so I can stop mounting to my desk and I’m excited for that to arrive. Main reason I got the wheel stand is I do agree, the pedals can move around when racing if not clamped down or placed against something and that is my only grief with the system to date but it’s easy to get around. When my mom came to visit I had her try it out as well and she spent hours on it, became addicted just as quickly as I did lol
Your mum seems cool as
I have a g923 and I was looking to upgrade to a T300 because when turning the g923 I can feel the gears and it is not very smooth, I was wondering if you have that same problem with the T300 or does the belt drive fix that?
The 923 SUCKS. Collecting dust in the corner of the room...
@@MousePad9 I don’t have that issue at all, very smooth with the T300
good for u
I did the mistake of buying the g923, used it for 3hrs wasn’t impressed it felt like driving with a loose tie rod end 😖. I found out about the T300 RS gt and bought it, it’s so much better 👍👍😁
Yeah, Logitech g923 is basically a g920 with a slightly better brake. While the T300 is better in every way
its not tho
@@justinjohnson9115 cope
I brought thrustmaster ts-xw. It’s more higher then the t300 and I like it
The G923 i got like on wednesday it was amazing to use my second race wheel while my first one was ok but hell the G923 did so much that my cheap wheel couldnt it was fun to use its not a bad wheel for someone that never had the change to feel the real driving coming from your room
wow, the first man on earth to prefer the g29 over the t300 xD
The true force of paid promotions
That's G923 not G29
@@MidnightMidas the force feedback in the g29 and g923 are identical. The only difference in them is the true force in the g923, which is not connected to to the force feedback. Whilst the true force is a nice addition, the soft force feedback really let's it down
@@videogamer38 not true at all dude look at people drifting on both wheels there’s a pretty big difference between the 29 and 923
@@JLP_710 it's the sane force feedback as the g29. As it says in the actual logitech website
I have had my logitech G29 since 24th December 2018. (Europe Christmas Eve). My brake pedal died yesterday. Meaning the pedal won't register movement, only if I press down the speeder, it follows. The clutch is also slowly dying. Same as the speeder. The problems began 6 months ago. But with 2.800+ hours on it, I think it's fiar to die. It has serviced it's lifetime
I have the logitech g920 but personally I prefer the T300RS GT because the wheel is a lot smoother and quieter and the break pedal is not that hard to press.
I ride on Series X and am completely satisfied with the Logitech G920!
Yes, the gear technology is relatively noisy, but there is a simple solution to make it almost completely silent. If you have some manual skills, you can do the conversion for 1€ in just under half an hour (Warning!!! Warranty expires)
Unscrew the steering wheel, remove both motors and you get to the gear rail. Degrease cleanly and stick a thin layer of felt (similar to chair gliders) to the bottom of the running surface. Then grease everything well (including the felt layer), assemble everything and almost not hear it anymore. Quieter than the rumble effect of a controller. Because it is not the gears that make the noise, but the play of the rack on the sliding surface. Works for me now more than 2000 hours without problems. Even in continuous use of uninterrupted 12 hours. Can of course also be used on the G29...
To do this, of course, remove the rubber stopper in the brake and if you want it to be even more realistic, close the air outlet hole in the lower sleeve with a screw and hot glue. Insert a thin round rubber seal into the milling of this sleeve and grease it well. Put everything back together and you will be amazed. Due to this conversion, the air in the sleeve cannot escape and the harder the pedal is pressed, the more it is compressed. It's not rocket science and both conversions present you with a better driving experience.👋
Of course I left you a subscription
you can actually open the break pedal on the g920 and removed the rubber block inside the spring and bam easier pedal
Everybody know the T300 is better like G92=G923...the better simulator people told also this...i dont understand this test.... so i dont like this test...i think is not correct
I can have G923 for 220e. T300 is for 330e in sale, so G923 is better now@@zolizmint6937
Any overheating with the t300?
The Trueforce feedback in the new Direct Drive wheel from Logitech is drastically improved from the G923. But, that wheel is $7 billion for no reason.
Honestly, i don't really take driving/racing games too seriously. I'd rather have a basic G920 like i have right now and enjoy actual driving in my car.
@@Fucklesticksif thats the case ,don,t comment.
@@gertinewoord1887 No thanks
yeah but that's a fucking direct drive wheel. you have to compare it to simcubes fanatecs and mozas not to thrustmasters lmfao
@@erixccjc2143it’s gear drive
Fairly important to know if you're planning on Drifting, not just racing: You likely will prefer the round wheel of the T300. The Logitech wheel has that cut-out at the bottom that can be problematic for catching the wheel. On the other hand, it may also offer you a point of feedback you can literally feel as it passes beneath your hand. That's not that big of an advantage though - you'll get used to measuring how quickly the wheel moves beneath your hands anyway, while having a spot on the wheel that you can't smoothly grip instantly like anywhere else will fuck with you every now and then.
Another thing with the logitech wheel is the counter steer motion the wheel does naturally is not nearly as strong, causing you to have to “throw” the wheel to counter steer at the proper speed, whereas with the Thrustmaster you can just let go and catch
Logitech is just shit compared to Thrustmaster, literally all the G27 and so on are nothing compared to a T300rs or T150
Well, i have been drifting on my g29 for 5+ years and i can fell my wheel finally giving up do you think Thrustmaster is THAT good? I dont want to be that cocky guy but i can put my car wherever i want while drifting any car. One exemple for my question is when i give a little kiss on the door in the middle of a tandem, i know when the guy have a better wheel and when he has a "tired" logitech just by how much his car move's. What i want to know is, it will be better for hard drifting or will just simulate and kill myself everytime?
@@D3STR01A it will be next level, you will finally feel in full control of the car. Thrustmaster will change your whole perspective on sim racing and you will finally feel real driving, it will not fuck you up at all
@@D3STR01A A change is always going to be a change, and you'll have a worse time until you finish adjusting.
That said, mechanically a belt drive is superior to a gear drive, and Thrustmaster has a lot more experience on those than Logitech.
So yeah, very likely you'll ultimately end up preferring the T300. Then again, what you don't know won't bother you, yea?
Logitech hasn't changed the design basically since 2008. The G25 has exactly the same base and pedal system which suffered small upgrades. They changed the shifter of the G25 from H pattern and semi auto to just H pattern on the G27. They released the G29/920 exactly having basically the same base and pedals with small improvements completely ditching tthe shifter and selling it separately. And the G923 is the laziest version they released which is literally a G920 with a small upgrade. All of this with a refresh on the original prices. So they're selling this one with the "trueforce" system which is not even available for everything for the same price that G920 was released, almost 10 years ago!
If you're on a budget don't even think of buying a G923 new. At least think of the T300 or G29 used. You might get a G27 or a G29 for about 100-150€ which is a good deal. But if you're getting new, go for the T300. I had both, currently own a T300 and I couldn't be happier. For me, going up from here it's a direct drive wheel. Bare in mind I don't have either pedals, I used to have the G29, modded it and still didn't like it, but bought the clubsport V3's from fanatec and it's a total game changer
Just letting u know, Driving force started everything then evolved into G series, basically u can still find same components in Driving force that u can find in newest G series wheel.
Idk where ppl get these wheels for 150 bucks I’ve searched all over the internet😭
@@brooke2369 used market. Im not talking new
If it aint broken dont fix it
do not buy a used g27 or 29, this guys is on acids. wheel is great (go watch other reviews, it's not just 9to5Toys that "gravitated" towards the g923) and logitechs support is amazing, got sent a brand new g923 because I stupidly broke a clamp (yes it's sturdy, I was just stupid). wait for a sale if you have a bit of remorse for 300 euros, i've seen them at sale 250 brand NEW.
I've noticed the true force on the g923 is much more precise than just a rumble pack and event when you hit curbs or go off track it pulls you and not just rumbles
even in a 20 year old game, Gran Turismo 4
You've unlocked a Pandora's box --- If you haven't already, you have progressive upgrades ahead of you. I started with the G293 -- for a week, and returned it, and got the T300RS. Served me very well for 3 months, and proved that I was all-in on this hobby. Then I upgraded to Fanatec DD. Used that for 2 years, and I'm now happily upgrading again to fit my needs/desires... It's addicting!😁
Have you had any overheating problems??
What did you upgrade to from Fanatec DD?
20 years ago I started with a G25, then I upgraded to Fanatec CSL DD last year. I had to build an aluminium sim rig to mount it all as it’s so powerful- it didn’t just clamp to the desk in a good position (with the table mount kit) It was an awesome setup but it was too big so I sold it recently and will one day go back to a simple desk setup. I don’t recommend going big if you don’t need to- It’s still fun.
at this point, just buy a car /s
@@bananenmusli2769 😂 the argument that all sim racers despise 😛
I just got the T300 after the force feedback motor died in my G29. The difference in the FFB on the T300 is huge, I can feel every bump on the track, even in F1 22, whereas the G29 only sometimes registered bumps. I am actually faster with the T300 as well
Yea it seems like the dude is shilling for Logitech tbh
@@EazyDuz18 yea
same
Same thing happened with my G25. And as mentioned in the video, those things are loud! Now i have the T300RS with the T3PA pedals and the H-shifter; It's a lot more money like that but imo also alot better experience.
@@Bandit-Darville I have those pedals, thinking of getting the load cell ones when I have some spare change
8:50 Sometimes i play from the hood cam so this for me is actually usefull at times especially when playing at night the revs are bright enough to sense them without looking at them but not too bright to hurt your eyes
I will disagree I was able to try both and the TM T300 blows it away, just upgrade the pedals and you have a system that destroys the Logitech in my opinion. BTW I got the TM load cell pedals.
I have the TX (which is T300 but for xbox) and the same pedals as you and I was almost laughing about the G923 feeling so bad
For years I played on a Logitech From the 25 to the 29. I always enjoyed it except for the noise en the small wheel. A few years ago I got myself my first Fanatec. What a difference. Now I have the GT DD pro. I know it's the brake that makes you faster, but this makes you so much more better.
Trust me, your logitech will last a lifetime. I bought a racing wheel from Logitech back in 2008, with pedals and gear shifter. Still solid and feel like new to this day.
Had a lot of Thrustmaster products: Joysticks etc... they get broken after 5 years usually
Mine broke after 4.5 months of use, no rage on it, Nothing. not even a punch and it broke
I've had my G923 for about 2 years and it's as solid as the day I got it. Excellent build quality.
nope. Mine broke after very little usage. The steering stopped working. I had it in storage for a while and it worked for a few days then quit. :(
Just replaced my Logitech G25 because it wouldn't work on PS4 pro so I got the G29 and ACC and must say i'm quite impressed with it. I'm a older gamer and have seen so many contollers and games in my days and just have to say dam were getting spoiled. Bought the wheel and pedal stand for 100 and got the wheel etc for under 300 and wow what a nice set up in front of a decent 60 inch TV. Just luvin it.
Super helpful video. Can I check, if I turn off "true force" on the GT29, will it stop that loud noise? The noise would be a problem for me but I'd be happy to turn it off at night if I had to.
I tried both systems as well before I purchased the T300RS as they were both priced similarly. (I should really say I purchased the G923 first but returned it). The Logitech is just a noisy clunky cog driven box though well presented with leather steering wheel, while the T300RS has smooth and classy feedback. True-force is not well supported in games and basically a gimmick from what I could see just adding even more noise but of no practical benefit. Just get the Thrustmaster. With twice the force feedback, it's the way to go depending on pricing but even at a higher price, I would still buy it over the G923 which has seen minimal improvement since the original G25 hit the market in 2006.
fax
thrustmaster's build quality is so flimsy that it feels like i could break those plastic paddle shifters just by pressing the multiple times lmao
looks like im the only person on earth who prefers logitech as someone who was able to test them in the store playing rfactor before i decided for the g29 without any doubt, for me the 'superior ffb mechanism' of t300/t248 doesnt justify their laughable build qualities imo
for those reasons if youre getting a mid level wheel might as well pick logitech, thrustmaster is a bit more priced and im not sure why, if youre looking for the best of the best just pick fanatec, thrustmaster seems to be in an awkward position between the two where its not sure if its trying to be better than logitech or compete with it or what
@@lavirtue7329 what are you on dude? my t300 feels way ahead and way better built than my previous wheel which was the logitech g27. be honest, you most likely never have tried out the t300/tx or even the t150/tmx. t248 is all plastic and just straight up feels like a toy. you have no rights to judge other thrustmaster wheels that are definitely superior to the t248. laughable quality? the only thing i can all honestly point out is the case fan, cuz it's really low quality overall, is pretty noisy and gets worn out easily. but that's it. t300 is miles ahead of the inferior logitech g923 that's basically the same wheel as all the previous ones with the same old tech from 2006. logitech keeps making the same products in a new box, which are pretty much a scam honestly. back in the days, when you got the g25/g27 it was an all in one package, wheel, shifter, pedals. and now? you only get the wheel base with pedals for the same price, and that's it. the shifter also got all it's other features cut down. no more buttons, no more switch for choosing between sequential or H pattern shifting. none of that. but yeah keep living in your world of lies, trying to desperately cope over the fact that you paid way too much for an overpriced low effort and low quality wheel.
@@lavirtue7329 T300 is way better than logitech
@@lavirtue7329 you sound like someone who wants a t300 but only can afford a g29 lol
I had a driving force GT and moved to a T300RS, I prefer it because of the belt driven system has smooth and consistent force on the wheel when driving, so its easier to drift
The t300rs gives a strange smell when playing, it comes from the power supply. Do you also suffer from this? I took the plastic cover off and now it's a little less.
@@MisterRobsonz i have had mine for over a year now and i have never had a weird smell from it
Still rocking my G27 but I am eventually going to get the Fantatec DD1
it's funny how some folks are almost offended that someone thinks the logitech wheel wins. confirmation bias much? fact is, the logitech is a great wheel for a beginner and leaves room (for those who like to tinker ) for upgrades. TMs strength here is also it's biggest weakness - if you want an improvement on the wheel or pedals, you just have BUY another wheel that costs sometimes more than half the original kit, same with the pedals. Don't forget that these are toys, and pretty much the starting point for anyone looking to get into sim racing. If you're on a tight budget and want a decent lasting experience, unfortunately logitech is king - if you've got some more money to throw at it, go for the TM but expect to be adding more stuff to your already long wishlist
with the Logitech, I had the g920 and the brake pedal was super stiff. I found out there is a rubber rectangle piece in the spring to make it harder to push down. If you want it to be easier unscrew the bottom plate and the brake spring. it will come out.
You're supposed to calibrate your pedals in-game, with the 100% point of the brake throw being at the point you're pushing very hard on the pedal, so that when you're actually racing the pedal feels like a real world brake pedal, and modulation of the brakes at that firm point gives much greater control over the vehicle during deceleration, without needing to resort to ABS, or locking up all the time.
But, most people don't understand that, it seems. Heard so many people pull out the block. You'll shake your head at how silly it is to take it out if you ever get yourself a pedal set with a load cell brake pedal, because they FEEL exactly the same as the Logitech pedal with the block still installed.
@@xxTICxxTOCxx on t300, if you use the brake mod, calibrates itself every time you power on the wheel. You dont have to press the brake all the way to rich 100%. It works really well and feels like loadcell. You brake with muscle memory.
@@kkmspm Yeah, I use a T300 with TLC-M load cell pedals, he's talking specifically about the Logitech pedals.
i currently use a simucube 2 pro direct drive system which is basically the best you can get besides the simucube ultimate, ive had a t300rs and a g29 and everything inbetween and im quite surprised that a new user like yourself would choose the g923. For me the number one priority over almost everything else with a FFB wheel is the smoothness, i mean think about it the single job this product has is to replicate the feeling of driving a car, when you turn the wheel of the g29/920/923 you can literally count the steps in the cogs which immediately tells the user this is nothing like a real car (unless that real car is very broken). the t300 at least gets somewhat close, it even feels smoother than its bigger brother the TGT and the TGT is double the price.
i totally understand when it comes to the pedals though, the t300rs has terrible pedals and the RS GT version is not much better really but the thrustmaster ecosystem at least allows you to upgrade to load cell pedals if you wish and there are lots of very cheap mods on the market for the GT pedals to improve the feel, i dont think id choose the notchier wheel based on what pedals it comes with but i somewhat understand why you might. many people say the notchy feeling does not bother them because they basically forget about it when driving but i think thats a bit of a lie honestly, some people cant afford a better product and so will defend what they have no matter what but the reality is they cant say it feels like a car, it just dont.
i even had a fanatec DD1 before the simucube which i had the same problem with, nothing like as bad as a g29 ofcourse, but the same problem exists, move the wheel slowly and you can count the steps between the motor magnets, for rolls royce money in the sim racing world its just not acceptable to me, these things are designed for immersion and fun, at that price it must at least be smooth like a car. i guess for the price of the logitech it can be forgiven, it does offer some respectable feedback afterall, but over a t300? nah.
T300 has no reliability and the support is a joke tho
@@katman2192 i can only agree about support, my experience with thrustmaster has been pretty bad. reliability not so much an issue from what ive experienced myself but ofcourse it has been known to overheat and lose ffb power, forcing the fan on i believe does help in that regard.
@@jinx20001 after seeing all the options and opinions I think I will go with the g29 as the price difference currently on amazon is 237 for the g29 compared to 449 for the t300 which is crazy when I can get the g29, Shifter, and F-GT Lite (Chair/ cockpit) for just a little over the cost of t300 and that's a full (Budget, of course) Rig
Yup, I have a g923 that I bought just to get my feet wet, knowing that if I stuck with it I would upgrade to a fanatec. I knew that it wouldn't be as smooth and accurate as a higher priced wheel, but it's definitely rough around the edges. I find myself quitting if I've been playing for a while, not because I'm bored but because of the obnoxious noise and rattling. I tried a friend's fanatec and now I dislike the g923. But that's like owning a mustang GT then hopping into a Porsche gt3rs.
I agree 100%. I bought a g920 a year or so ago and I got rid of it after a week. I coulnd't stand the noise and how not smooth at all it was especially when turning the wheel slower. I was disgusted with it and myself because I failed to do proper research before buying, but I had no idea these problems could exist. I haven't tried the Thrustmaster wheel but boy let me tell you I wouldn't get a Logitech rattling wheel ever again.
My ThrustMaster TMX PRO Force Feedback suits me well. I did modify the brake progression with a mod I made myself and so far it works well.
I have a G27 that I used for many years way back in the day. Back then, I absolutely loved my G27. I felt that it was so realistic and very strong. Then, I went to a tournament where they had proper rigs using the T500RS mounted in a nice cockpit. The strength and clarity of that wheel was an eye opener. From that moment on, I knew I needed a better wheel.
Fast forward to today, I am using a T300RS. It maybe not as good as.a proper DD model from Fanatec, but it was relatively affordable and upgradeable. I know own 3 rims and a cockpit, and my experience is so much better than all those years ago. Also, I can basically just buy the new Thrustmaster DD wheelbase and mount my rims to it, so that'll be an easy upgrade down the line.
So I definitely recommend the T300RS, and the whole Thrustmaster ecosystem over Logitech. But that is just my experience.
My hopes are that TM actually market something decent with their DD... I know they've confirmed it to be compatible with existing add-ons, meaning pedals and shifters and the like, but I'm not 100% sure if they're keeping their current "quick release". This plasticcy contraption has to be able to withstand however many nm of torque, certainly a good deal more than their current line-up is able to put out. I really hope they can make this work, maybe use different materials? Gotta say the connect on my t300 was dead solid, no play or anything.
Happy with my CSL DD but that needs a €100 qr1 to be as solid.
Bang for buck the TM is hard to beat, I almost dread the idea of selling it?!
@@frankdiehl8749 I was thinking about this just last night. I'm just one person with limited manufacturing capability, but I am sure I could engineer a quick release system that could be screwed onto the existing system. If TM were to really tackle this issue, I am sure they could also engineer such a solution, and with their manufacturing capacity, offer it as a relatively affordable accesory. So, I'm hoping TM does a good job with their new DD wheelbase and "quickrelease system."
@@RobCabreraCh TM could really undercut Fanatec if they play their cards right. Where the smaller players in the DD market just cannot in terms of regional availability, support(I've found Fanatec to be quite decent, but I'm a stone's throw away relatively from their operation in Germany.)and the outright ability to market things at a feasible price.
Fanatec tried to do things the Apple way, and have only quite recently pulled the plug on their €120 PSU for the CSL DD. Now we don't get to buy the sub €400 CSL, and source the PSU from China. It's quite bad, it's not a good look. TM can absolutely kill it here, but I have my reservations unless they've sacked some of their marketing team.
Yea I've never seen anyone recommend the g923 over even the older thrustmaster.
I had this with a much older wheel (an AVB Force Feedback, and I will add that I might not have games taking full advantage of it) that I used years a go and a second hand CSL DD set I tested for a bit before buying it from an eBay like ad.
The very first moment the car lost control it felt EXACTLY like the couple of times I had the luck of having some driving lessons in the snow, and my instructor took me to a parking lot without curbs to make me experience what skidding was like.
That was absolutely wild, I was able to feel so much more (and it's almost a shame it's going to be used in a slow-paced simulator setup :D )
I bought the gear shifter for my G923 and was intending to start using the clutch pedal, but for driving games I mainly do rally so found it worked so much better binding the clutch pedal to the handbrake - trying to find a specific button on the wheel when you're halfway around a corner with the wheel all over the place is nigh impossible but the clutch pedal is always where I left it :)
If your using the h pattern bind your handbrake to both the paddles works alright for me on my g27
@@blakemoloney2343 Both paddles is a button ? OMG, gonna try that one, thanks !
Nice tip!
@@ceegnz yeah just gotta go into settings an set them both to handbrake
@@blakemoloney2343 as the total nuub i am - what are the paddles?? theres 3 pedals, but i'm not sure thats what you mean?
Did you use the boost function in the control panel of the T300? It really improves the FFB.
Had a T300RS and it broke 2 months after warranty ends (14 months total). It is the overheating problem, not even with the fan at 100% it can be trusted, since mine was very mildly used. Thrustmaster tried to charge me almost the same price as new to repair! The money went to a Logitech G29, running smooth for 3 years so far and looking and feeling just as new!
That’s what I needed to hear. With the G923, do you play at its strongest setting?
That's what I'm worried about. The t300RS honestly looks like the better setup but their quality control is non existent.
I think it’s mostly personal preference. You’re very lucky to have been able to compare both irl. I did many hours of research before landing on the T300 RS GT. I will say the response of the T300 is insane. I’m coming from an over decade old for Fanatec Forza CSR wheel. I believe that was also belt driven, and although it was a “budget” wheel (still around $350-400 all said and done) I found it to perform quite well, albeit way too small of a wheel and you couldn’t change it. However, it does still work and I do occasionally use it on my 360 to play Forza 4.
The T300 is noticeably more powerful and quick to respond. It is bigger, although not by much, I still find it to be too small. I would highly recommend messing with the settings a bit until you get to a point you like as I wasn’t particularly happy with the default. I ended up choosing the T300 because I really like strong FFB, and you can always drop it down but there’s no going up (however the default on the T300 was 75% overall strength, so in its case you can go up, I’m not sure about the Logitech).
Unless your willing to spend about a grand, the T300, I feel, is probably the best you can get. I’m sure others will disagree, however like I said, I think a lot of it is personal preference, and price point.
I would recommend anyone looking for wheel to check out “OC Racing” as well, he has tons of videos reviewing and comparing just about every wheel you can buy.
Great video!
Adam....CSR's are still one of the best wheels ever made for the Xbox 360,classic's like FM3/4 and F1 2010 up till 2013 can't be played on Backwards Capability(due to licenses)...don't get rid of your CSR they are very rare to find these days and will be collectibles in the future.
You should definitely look at getting a fanatec CSL or CSL elite (Xbox or PlayStation), if you wait and look for a good deal you can literally get a setup for less than 400 bucks rn and it will be a big upgrade from your t300. I love the t300 and had one for several months but the newer fanatec (obviously now it’s previous gen after the release of the CSL DD last year) is different gravy from anything Logitech or Thrustmaster and honestly still stacks up pretty well against the CSL dd
I just upgraded from a Fanatec CSR to a Thrustmaster TX as I jumped to the Xbox Series X. The TX was actually cheaper than the CSR was back then (I got it on clearance at 299 with the T3PA and the leather rim). The Thrustmaster are way worse than the ones from the CSR as they are mostly plastic and lack any kind of adjustment whatsoever but the rim is leaps beyond of the plastic rim of the CSR. The CSR included artificial vibration for the ABS and engine rumble which was a bit odd but I got to used to it and I kinda missed it. I had to change the default FFB settings on FH5 (XSX) to suit my needs since the TX also lacks the on-the-wheel setting adjustments the CSR had but overall it was a nice step-up. Now I have to figure out how can I use my CSR pedals with my TX wheel
TrueBrake mod for the g923 brake pedalis well worth it.
@@markvanwalsem3201 I’ve still got it, and it still works. Just had it running! It’ll either die with me or last forever. I don’t ever plan on selling it but you’re right.
Before going for direct drive wheel, get some decent pedals with a loadcell brake. Thrustmaster or fanatec have well priced offerings. Pedals make more of a difference in lap time than any wheel. Also if you buy a cockpit, make sure you buy one that's rigid enough for a dd wheel as well.
I disagree, yes, pedals make a huge difference, but the wheel sort of is your connection to the track and therefore it’s very important just bc you can feel the grip alot better.
@@MrTee-uy5tl the wheel helps you to be more consistent with your laps and a good wheel can save from a spin form time to time but the pedals man make the most differences in laptime, and the loadcell help even the consistency a lot
This is bullshit. The difference between s gear wheel and a belt one is much greatrr than pedals.
That noise you hear is coming from the table . If you use a steel mount, you will hear nothing the but small vibration feedback.
I have the T300RS GT, the only thing driving me nuts is, that the software confuses the gas with the clutch. I wasn’t able to change that, so I have to change the bindings in game..
I bought a G29 back in February last year. With the H-Pattern shifter the whole package came to about £260. If I could go back and get the G923 I wouldn't. From what I have seen of it, the brake pedal upgrade and the true force are not worth the increased price tag. I have not used the T300 so I won't comment on it, however, if you are looking for a good starter package on a budget then I would look at the G29/920 NOT the 923.
I got a G29 w/ H shifter for about $250 USD earlier this year and I absolutely love it. I'm sure it's nothing compared to say a Fanatec but it fits within my budget well.
The weird thing is here in Malaysia g29 and 923 have little price difference. 10 to 20 bucks. With 923 and H shifter i spend about 350.
İ think the Trueforce really worth it.
5:44 - By the way, can I ask what the blue object is that says “5:37” on it?
I always recomend logitech for ppl starting out in sim. Its a complete package and best bang for your buck.
Once they find out if they wanna delve deeper into sim or not they can go out and buy more expensive professional wheels or keep that one for the occasional use.
The best bang for the buck for starters would be the Thrustmaster T150 Pro.
@@Penqvino Both have pros and cons but should be about equal. Just depends on what you prefer.
Logitech has nicer wheel with the leather, but TM has better pedals if you don't mod the logitech ones and also Tm has a smoother steering feel (Belt vs gear).
Warranty is longer on logitech too and has better mounting options.
Personally i got a G27 a few years ago so i could use it on both my PS3 and PC.
@@Penqvino T300, maybe a little more pricey to start with, but if you do enjoy racing you'll feel no need to upgrade unless you start to get really hardcore serious about it
Can you feel friction from any of those clutch pedals?
Be careful with the g923, my cables broke with less than a year of use (and i maybe used it 3-4 times a month). Felt kinda clunky too, wouldnt recommend over the long run
That what happened to me yesterday and it pissed me off... So now I need upgrade but the t300 its but expensive tbh
weird, I've never had a cable break or anything on the g27 or the dfgt, guess the newer 923 has shit cables but just looks similar
Who uses the left foot for beaking?
I went with the G920 as I couldn't convince myself to spend the $30 extra or so to upgrade to the G923. I'm glad you mentioned the smell of the wheel....I noticed right away the leather smells like leather! The clamp system is awesome as I am in a similar position. I pack up my wheel when I'm done playing, as my desk is also my work desk. I had first bought the TM T80 but it came with a broken gas pedal. That really soured me on Thrustmaster wheels - But, that said, the high end Thrustmaster wheels do look pretty cool.
I just get G29 I can’t make my self spend 100 more for a wheel which is basically the same
I've been using a G920 for about 5 years now. It's been a solid wheel for me and surprisingly still works like new. When it does finally die I'll probably upgrade to a Moza or something but it just keeps on working so no complaints.
A used G920 for $160 good, or i should stay with normal gamepad?
Everyone always complaining about the Logitech G923 being loud and then theres me who put my speakers to max volume and dont even hear my own toughts while playing😂
This! I have my 7.1 Denon system almost at full full range
A classic 5.1 Z5500 here. lol I dare my wheel to sound louder!
True 😂😂😂
The price here in New Zealand is about $450 for the G923 and $900 for the Thrustmaster T300RS. Doesn't seem like a fair comparison when one wheel is twice the price of the other?
I have had both, but it's a tough call... I was lucky on Amazon, as I got the G923 for $250 :)
Just a heads up in Forza you can turn down the vibration in the advanced settings
It's been fun dipping my toe into sim racing. What's your favorite wheel or setup?
Couldn't agree more. I just switched from the G29 to the T300 RS GT. Best decision i've made in a long time. Totally worth the extra cheddar. Better in every way.
G29 + Shifter with the playseat challenge (i mod the seat for the shifter) and an aircraft controller for handbreak!! (also mod)
just wanted to say, as you chose the Logitech for its pedals, a common thing we do in the sim racing world is get a wheelbase like a T300RS and then using separate pedals such as Fanatec. incredible improvement compared to both thrustmaster and Logitech
I want upgrade from G923, I only have two option T300RS or TGT 2? which better?
I'm changing my gear from G25 to T300RS. This video arrived to me just right time!
is the trustmaster stearing wheel bigger than the logitech?
I think the t300 is far better than the g923, the design doesn't change, and is identical to the previous models (just different colors) and the little things that changed (trueforce,which basically is just a device that converts audio to vibration, and the brake pedal) aren't worth the price jump between previous wheels.
Which one would be better for playing mostly Dakar desert rally ? I can't decide ...
thats crazy he said the opposite of what everyone else says in the community . Ive owned just about every logitech wheel from one of the first ones that came with a set of speakers and Gran Turismo 3 . they all have the grainy feeling being gear driven . It just does not feel like an actual car , and when i finally got my t300 years ago that was the immediate difference I noticed . Also i have not used my dads g293 , but from holding the wheel im not too fond of the smaller wheel shape and feel , and have no opinion on pedals either . BUT with the TP3a Pro pedal set the thrustmaster is the mid tier king
I returned the 923 with in a week and got the t300 so much better in every way. Maybe u didnt have it updated or had bad settings? I cant fathom how anyone would choose the 923 over the t300. Of course this was awhile ago and ive since upgraded several times and currently have the dd extreme and a tgt2
Great video. After playing Gran Turismo in my psvr2 I quickly came to the realization I needed a wheel and pedals. I have been torn between these two wheels or forking out the extra money and buying more expensive wheel. Thanks for the info
T300 alcantara
Hey does the Logitech g923 work with GT7 on Psvr2?
@@iseaturtles9977it does
Have you tried to lower your desk and chair to sit lower like in a racing Car?
Having had the logitech DFGT (2 years), G27 (4 years with a caveat), T300RS (6 years) and now a CSL DD (2 years), after all that time? I can safely say this.
If you HAVE to choose (because of budget constraints) either the G series or T300? ALWAYS get the T300 hands down, here's why...
The G series first wheel was the G25 with 2.4nm torque but it didn't have the helical gears so it was louder than the G27 (as was my DFGT which also had 2.4nm) whilst the helical gears reduce noise they're weaker but, because the base of each tooth is narrower they would break more easily, to combat this the G27 and all models since have reduced torque to 2.1/2.2nm maximum, even then I had 2 through broken teeth.
Because the T300 is belt driven it's got 3.4nm torque and is practically BOMBPROOF, the only issue I had was when an updated software/firmware cause it to spin too fast during calibration which chattered the mechanical stop at one end of it's rotation, this happened about a year after it launched (just after I got mine) but I RMA'd it without issue for a replacement as TM were aware it was a bad update that caused the damage.
The biggest flaw of the T300 (and the logitechs additional issue) is the pedals.
They both use potentiometers connected by geared cams to the pedal pivot, almost directly underneath the big hole the pedal arm passes through, these geared cams are of course lubricated but this makes their issue worse, that issue being dust, dirt or hair ingress becoming trapped in these geared mechanisms.
This issue manifests itself in 4 possible ways..
1) Pedal fluttering, in the calibration page you might see the meter fluttering between 0-5%, if it's the brake then you'll see other players out driving you on straights for no apparent reason, you'd also notice the brake lights coming on in replays or if using chase cam. you CAN compensate by applying a deadzone in this case or try cleaning the gears, I'll get to this issue in a bit.
2) Pedal stuttering, as you depress the pedal it'll appear to stutter, essentially it'll stop/start during the motion.
3) Being unable to reach 100%, in the calibration screen it'll top out at between 95-98%, and flutter as with No 1, it's the same issue for all 3 just dirt but in different parts of the gearing.
4) Potentiometer damage, they're mechanical variable potentiometers which have a contact patch and a sweep arm that rides along this patch changing the electrical resistance which the base reads as a set position, but, being mechanical they DO wear out after prolonged life/usage, they can be replaced but like cleaning mentioned below you can bork the pedals..
This can be cause by even fibres from your socks, stray cat/dog/human hairs, lint, dust or dirt
Worst case is encountering all 3 at the same time on all 3 pedals (trust me been there and got the T-shirt hat AND shades for BOTH G series and T300 pedals).
You CAN attempt cleaning the gears but be warned! You should NEVER remove the u shaped mount from the upper housing doing so CAN cause the gears to detach and they're nigh on impossible to refit correctly, just 1 tooth out of position and you lose a HUGE amount of pedal travel.
Yeah the G923 has the progressive spring to give increasing resistance to the brake but it's still not great. You're still predominately using foot position to hit the max braking without locking up.
This is a MAJOR advantage for the T3PA pedals with the T300RS, the conical brake mod they come supplied with, when fitted, adjusted and then calibrated it gives you a certain amount of progressively increasing resistance right at the end of brake travel, yeas you lose a small amount of travel as a result but one you calibrate them in whatever games you own so the hardest pressure you can apply is "max braking" you rapidly master the pressure feedback at the point the brakes will lock up, you're then using "muscle memory" instead of foot angle, this is far more accurate to judge and rapidly becomes instinctive, after a while you'll begin "playing on the brakes", allowing much easier mastery of trail braking (braking later harder on approach then gradually reducing pressure as you turn into the apex), you gain massive amounts of confidence on the brakes and a considerable reduction in laptimes because of the added reliability foot pressure has over foot angle.
My biggest tip for anyone thinking of the T300 relates to the base being nigh on bombproof mechanically, if budget is critical? Get a 2nd hand wheelbase and rim (there's also the Alcantara wrapped rims to consider if the plastic one isn't enough) Why go 2nd hand though?
You can save half the new price or more and that bombproof mech means even a 6-8 year old wheelbase will STILL be rock solid, the BIG plus is this will leave you enough funds to bypass the T3PA pedals and instead get the TL-CM set which have 3 MAJOR advantages.
1) Loadcell brake pedal, as with the conical mod a loadcell provides tactile pressure at maximum travel, it uses a strain gauge which changes resistance to electricity fed through it, much more reliable than potentiometers as there's no moving rubbing parts just a flexing part that changes the resistance, making them an order of magnitude more reliable and with a much MUCH longer lifespan.
2) The gas and clutch use hall effect sensors instead of potentiometers & geared connections, this is a magnet on the pedal arm and a magnetic field sensor under the pedal, as the pedal is pressed the magnet moves in relation to the sensor changing is resistance, the only moving part is the pedal arm, dust can still get in but the only side effect is likely to be a squeaking which a drop of oil can eliminate, like the loadcell, longer lifespan, more reliable, more accurate (due to infinite progression instead of multi-stepped progression of a potentiometer) and a doddle to maintain.
3) Even better than the conical mod as the progressive pressure starts increasing as soon as you touch the pedal face you ALWAYS have pressure underfoot making accurate precise braking completely 2nd nature in hours compared to just judging foot angle, your heel could move on the footplate, doesn't matter you still have that pressure underfoot and the muscle memory tied to it.
Sure it won't completely eliminate lockups, I'd be lying if I said it does but it's 99% reduced compared to the G series or T3PA pedals.
You DON'T need a direct drive costing £700-2000, a T300RS with any loadcell brakes can let you compete against the uber expensive gear trust me on this if nothing else..
Me with T300RS and Fanatec V3 pedals with loadcell brake vs a guy in a full motion rig, VR headset Fanatec CSW 2.5 (7nm wheelbase iirc) after owning my V3's for just 3 days...
th-cam.com/video/wPf6N3bsLk4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZzBjLaIwnlKFoOrd
Finally.. For those coming from controller to a wheel (especially if you've never driven a car)...
Avoid games you know well when you 1st get your wheel.. Why do I say this?
Any game you play on controller for a prolonged time builds up a set of "controller habits", braking points, acceleration points, turn in points etc.
By using a known game with your 1st wheel you're not just learning an old game anew, your actively fighting against those controller instincts and trying to rewrite the brain all at once.
E.G. when I got my old DFGT to play Race Driver Grid and Dirt 3 was due to launch I tried for over 3 MONTHS to beat my PB's in Grid but it just didn't happen.
When Dirt 3 came out I'd never used the controller on it, I learned from scratch to play the game and use the wheel. it still took 3 or 4 weeks to create the wheel habits and instinctively control the cars but ohhh boy! when I went back to Grid my laptimes TUMBLED as a result.
The wheel gave me the capability to do stuff like this...
th-cam.com/video/LAso3TDYGUc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k1NYAGUdXfLacoO3
This...
th-cam.com/video/BsjsUeQEAz0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gzqEe49emfdYMjwk
This... while reaching 2nd on the ESL 1 v 1 Drift battle ladder.
th-cam.com/video/b28tIPKu6yk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=43TPwbO5D3QQAfog
These.. Just for the hell of it!
th-cam.com/video/_JVbI4WtISM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JngKVIQT28aLVV9f
th-cam.com/video/M9n6FM0Ak48/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CanzyegmSsuHphYd
th-cam.com/video/5k3Ym-JWWTI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tSbHjmUNbvV9dCgh
Now I'm doing this with the CSL DD vs some SERIOUSLY quick guys...
th-cam.com/video/8DWnkFnRpxA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eY-sXYBDJ5a3Ovze
how was your t300rs , is it reliable.
@@puppy6002absolutely bulletproof, never had any issues with the wheelbase in 6 years of daily use, from what I hear atm Logitech keep screwing up their drivers with every update.
E.G. in AMS2 I see "My wheel stopped working" fairly often after a game update if it's anything BUT logitech the advice is usually "re-assigning the controls solves the problem".
Everytime Logitech roll out a new update for GHub or the player in question has a logitech wheel? "You might wanna roll back the GHub software cause this happens EVERYTIME they update that garbage"
The only thing bad with the T300RS is the pedals and dust/dirt gumming up the mechs (Though the logitech pedals also suffer this issue), if you CAN, get the Thrustmaster T-LCM loadcell pedals as they plug into the T300, TX or TMX wheelbases directly, or you can get an adapter to use USB. Seen them for as little as £50-60 on Ebay and the T300 itself for £100.
Don't buy it new either! If you have that kinda cash (£350-370) get a direct drive wheel instead..
Moza do their 3nm bundle for £399 (3.9nm peak torque) in clamp and 2 pedal set.
Cammus do a 5NM wheelbase, table clamp and dual pedal set for £259 (excluding tax iirc) or £311 and change in the UK and you can then get the T-LCM's 2nd hand for the same price as the T300RS GTE (£379.99 inc tax).
So £379.99 for the 3.4nm T300 with iffy potentiometer pedals direct from Thrustmaster.
£399 for the Moza R 3, 3.9nm bundle with clamp and dual hall effect sensor pedal set.
£311 for the 5nm Cammus C5 5.5nm bundle with desk clamp & dual hall effect sensor pedal set.
Add £50-60 and get the T-LCM hall effect and loadcell 3 pedal set from ebay if you're on PC, (you can't use dual input controls on console iirc).
@@SRS13Rastus unfortunately , due for my budget limited. i have to pick g923. :C
I cant afford the extra 100$ for a thrustmaster.
@@puppy6002 Sad to hear that but bear in mind the T300 can be had cheaper than a new G923 via Ebay, plus given they're practically bombproof even a wheel bought by it's owner in 2014 will still be really reliable, you'll also get close to 2 times the torque of a G923, 2.1nm vs 3.9nm and almost no noise when in use.
The G-series clatter like MAD, so much that they can be heard throughout the house and can even annoy your neighbours as a result.
I remember a comment on a FB post from a guy asking if upgrading from a logitech G29 was worth it as his wife was complaining about the noise keeping her awake.
I just replied saying "Hell yeah even a T300 will stop her having to complain, a direct drive will be almost silent, if she complains about the price you can at least say "well I bought it so I don't keep you awake when I'm racing so I'm thinking about you as well darling!". if she still complains? Just throw open her wardrobe and point at it's contents..."
I got a message back saying "DAMN that worked, you're a GENIUS!!"
Joking aside though, the noise is a huge problem with the geared wheels, if even a 2nd hand T300 is too expensive then maybe consider the TX or TMX (Pro versions come with the 3 pedal set which are same as the Logitech ones but have a conical brake mod as well) £90 ($113US) vs £50 ($63US), though like I said I wouldn't buy a 2nd hand logitech as you can't guarantee it's age...
I bought my t300rs gt about 8 months ago and shortly after I got the playseat rig. Sparco ebrake. And t8 shifter. It's been the best decision I made
I bought the thrustmaster tx leather edition and I do not regret it, has made every driving gave as enjoyable as the arcade if not more.
I've never done sim racing and I'm about to go all in on the T300 with a psvr2. I hope this works out.
So, how does it feel?) Just got psvr 2 and thinking about the wheel
@@ilkarusei Well I got the wheel. I suck at it but I think I have to adjust the force feedback settings to make it more comfortable. Otherwise it's hard to control. I got the vr2 and only used it 1 day because I got crazy motion sickness. I'm told it's temporary for new users. Did you experience it? It messed me up for the whole day and I haven't touched it for 2 weeks 😂
@@jeffghant4760 I only play Beat saber so far. The only game that never gives sickness, and with infinit replayability)
But I know, motion sickness is an issue. I had psvr for many years and never trained myself to fully resist it. I've tried Gran Turismo sport with it, and it was pretty bad
The only thing I can recommend -- stop playing with the first signes of sickness. Then you can resume in 30-60 minutes, and step by step have longer sessions (initially it can be like just a few minutes)
solid review. I have the G920 and its not bad, but i just hate it for drifting in Assetto Corsa because it just doesn't rotate fast enough for me, i feel like im constantly feeding it, but for regular road racing, you absolutely cant go wrong with the g923, my friends that have it love it
Same. I have to constantly throw the wheel.
I used to borrow a t150 thrustmaster and although it was not ideal I could drift pretty good with it in AC. Now I own a G29 and I cant seem to do it anymore, for racing it's perfect but for drifting it's just too slow.
Dude, just install CM launcher for AC, config the wheel with LUT calibration and activate the " enhaced FFB response " and you are ready to drift like ken block. No more throw. Feels like another wheel.
The G920 and G923 are both a piece of shit compared to a T300rs, The T300rs is way superior with the forcefeedback. It's fast and give you very clear feedback. Even the T150rs is way better than the Logitech, if you say otherwise you have never driven any of these Thrustmaster wheels.
I went with the Logitech sure to it's ability to be modded and support. I have a actual real car aftermarket steering wheel attached to mine. The pedals are not great, but you can take them apart also and invert them and space them further apart
Thanks for very useful review. I like your natural style and the ability to point out things that are essential and important. 👍
I really liked my Logitech g923 but I upgraded to a thrustmaster tx leather edition earlier this year and it was the best purchase I’ve ever made
Same. It's incredible.
A major point not brought up in any videos I've seen yet about the G923 is the power cord. If the power cord is damaged you must take the wheel apart. Good luck finding a quick replacement cord. The Thrustmaster power cord you simply plug into the wheel. If it gets damaged you do not need to take the wheel apart to fix.
wtf are you talking about? the g923 powercord is plugged in on the underside of the base just like the pedals.... the only thing you need to do is release the desk mount to access it... your claim that the wheel needs to be taken apart is a straight up lie
I have a G920. Here's a video I used when I had to replace the cord:
th-cam.com/video/DxT2UOmHN-I/w-d-xo.html
At 37:39 you get a good look at how the cord is plugged in. Note this video is for the PlayStation G29 specifically. In the G923 videos I have seen it looks the same as the G920. So, you are saying the G923 is different from the G920 in that way? That would be cool if so. If you can point us to a video or pictures showing what you are talking about that would be nice.
@@stefanforrer2573
Considering the low force feedback strength gives you better driving pleasure. Other than this, for those who really cares about simracing have to increase the force strength. If you search for G29s, T300s, Fanatechs, will see the exact observable differences between models.
I prefer the Thrustmaster and you can get different pedal sets; I have 2 T300 RS - one on my Playseat Formula 1 Pro Red with the SF1000 F1 wheel and TLCM pedals and one on my Playseat Evolution with the Alcanterra Integral wheel and T3PA pedals for GT Racing and Truck Simulator and Farm Simulator; solid products IMO
I absolutely guarantee you haven’t even tried the logitech but you do you lol
@@nuggyfresh6430 I had a Logitech G 27 years ago; but yes never tried one lately; on PC; I like that you can have different wheel rims on the Thrustmaster eh :)
I found the g923 for 225€ basically brand new and I was wondering whether or not I should go for it instead of t300rs gt. This will be my first gaming wheel, and I don't won't to regret my decision later but can you wrong with such a deal?
Better pull the trigger on a used T300. Don't waste your money on a basically more than 10 year old platform only having really minor updates.
So i just tried out the 923 today at a demo at bestbuy. Yes it's loud, but i doubt it would be bothersome with tv sound on or headphones. My biggest feedback would be that people say the forcefeedback isnt strong like the belt driven thrustmaster. In my opinion, i dont know how strong you want thrme feedback to be, my wow does the 923 have some torque - I'd say anything stronger and you'd be fighting the steering wheel. I dont see the 923 feedback being weak - it's plenty strong to rip from your hands if you're not paying attention. Another cool thing - when you rev the engine, the steering wheel shakes 👍🏻
i was looking and making some searches and then i found that a T300RS GT + shifter and a suport for shifter and handbrake is only 1 euro more than a g923+shifter+ wheel stand 2.0 and for my scenario its rly better a T300RS GT
I have a thrustmaster TMX which I’m adding the tlcm pedals and a TH8A gear stick overall a very nice set up and been using thrustmaster for a while now and very impressed with the quality
how is the ffb in this wheel?is it belt like ts300?
@@Voltomess belt can get a bit noisy ive had the steering wheel for a couple years now the t3pm pedals are great with spring loaded brake pedal and the clutch has very good resistance
The TH8A gear shifter is very nice to use however can be tricky having to plug in from Xbox to pc I tend to leave the pc connector plugged in so I can switch them over
For pc usage the gear stick runs on a usb to the computer
For Xbox it plugs into the steering wheel
Very nice quality for the money
@@Voltomess and yes it is Belt driven ffb
But feels very realistic
@@Voltomess It's a bit less power, but it's much more quite and the force feedback on the T150 is also way better than from Logitech
Also consider getting the T300 Servo Base and getting a 13" steering wheel, along with an adapter for it
Tl;DR: (a kind of PSA) with work the TM pedals can feel good. I got mine to ~ 80% as good as loadcell.
I hear you on that pedal feel (T3PA or T3PG) the included conical mod feels tteeeerrrible, unless you are a tinkerer, and can sink some time into fiddling with a wrench and settings. Full disclosure I eventually upgraded to the TLCM loadcell pedals but not before sinking a handful of evenings into tweaking. And the brake felt good *as long as the pedals were bolted down*. Here’s how I got there in case anyone is interested:
Step 1: fiddle with conical mod and locknut to get it as close to pedal as possible. (The nut goes on threaded section BETWEEN the cone and vertical attachment arm thing. Set the distance of the cone then lock in place by tightening nut twds arm)
Step 2: bolt down pedals (or at minimum trap edge closest to you so it can’t flip up)
Step 3: load game. Some have adjustments in game (only option for console users) or use maybe the control panel on a pc… I did this on Xbox. First press pedal hard to auto-calibrate it after the wheel does it’s spinning.
4: In ACC there is brake Gamma and Deadzone. First adjust deadzone so that when you feel like you’re pressing as hard as you would to slam brakes that the full force of breaking is registered. (By default with cone installed it’ll be hard to get past 20-40%, as you increase deadzone the brake will move twds 100%… try not to overshoot. You get to choose how hard you press)
5 : now you should be able to apply 100% brakes but it’ll be twitchy and hard to control. This is where gamma comes in. It adjust the linearity of the input. Because it’s easier at first then gets harder and harder to press the pedal into the rubber, adjust so a large movement early = little game input and a small movement at end of travel makes a large in game input. Basically lowering the sensitivity at beginning of travel, then increases more and more the more you press.
(The setting for that gamma will vary greatly based on how far, physically the cone is from the brake arm. But I had values around 1.5 up to 4 … I think. Tiny numerical adjustments make a large difference. )
Here’s how I did that: I looked away and pressed the pedal until I was at “half pressure” feel and then looked at the brake meter. If it was super low or high I adjust the gamma a click. Tried again. Etc. Once it showed what I felt. I tried putting in a light/low amount and a harder/higher adjusting the gamma again. With a little time I got it feeling natural. You may have to fiddle with deadzone up or down a few clicks once gamma is close. And fyi every change of cone position (like 1/4 turn on the threads) will completely change the deadzone and gamma settings)
Note: This lowers the overall resolution of the sensor but replaces your need for position-memory with pressure-memory… in theory.
6 : race at least 2 hrs without adjusting settings
7 : refine if needed. Then if it’s anywhere near close to useable, *don’t adjust the settings anymore*. Very important. The whole point is to give you muscle-memory, and that only forms over time and resets every time you make big adjustments, so horseshoes and handgrenades. Close is good. Time for Laps laps laps.
That’s it! Sorry I didn’t have enough time to make that shorter😅 it’s really fiddly but if you put in the time it’s seriously a massive upgrade. I was actually disappointed slightly when buying a real loadcell that the improvement wasn’t as large. It’s a time vs $ thing. If you have more time, try this. If you have more $ buy the T-LCM (they’re pretty great btw)
Waht's the difference between the T300RS GT the normal one and the TMX Force feedback
I have a g923, I take all the points you mention for granted, it must be emphasized that the cable system is quite rudimentary in the g923, it can be accommodated, it is not something difficult to do so that it does not deteriorate quickly, due to feeding and sensation I have played ACC and Gran turismo 7, in addition to DIRT RALLY and Gran turismo Sports, they all have an excellent sensation in terms of Force feedback GTS AND ACC how many with the acceleration sensation depending on what type of car you are using, anyway These are details that add to the experience.
As a note 1 year later you can get a DD wheel in the $300-$500 range now
It's amazing how opinions are so different. "no, that one sucks get this!" lol
I've read some interesting stuff while shopping around for a replacement for my broken G26. G923 is usually said to have better build quality and quicker response FFB. Plus far better pedals. T300 better for drifting/smoother, stronger FFB. And you can get some pretty good pedals with one of the special editions. The biggest problem right now is price. T300 is $470 while G923 is $350. For me, slower FFB and way higher price are deal breakers. Leaning towards G923.
Is it possible to completely deactivate the Vibrations on the Logitech G923? Thats something i'm really worried about, i actually just want a smooth steering experience and no vibrations/sounds at all.
it’s gonna be boring and ruins the the whole point of the wheel. if u want it to be quiet then get a t300rs gt
Logietc G 923 with a 14" steering wheel
Also uses the clutch as a handbrake, where a cable between the handbrake lever and the pedal does the job!
Amazing feeling!
The thrustmaster allows for the wheel to be changed. So if I had an Xbox wheel could I change to a PlayStation wheel? I have both systems and hate the idea of buying two separate wheels
The g920 is a better wheel over the 923.. Almost half the price! Exactly the same internally. The only difference is they play the sound from the game to add a little more rumble! It's terrible.. Get the - G920 for xbox.. G29 for PlayStation!
Great video! A little off topic but what monitor is that?!
Everyone has their preferences, I personally have tried both and preferred the Thrustmaster,
But if the Logitech feels better then don't get hung up on specs or brand. Do what feels right and that's how you end up with something you enjoy.
Went with a t300rs gt because of the more realistic force feedback. It's awesome!
The video review shows that the Logitec g293 has better force feedback so you are high in something or drunk
the g923 is essentially the same as a g25 that was released in 2006, it got some (slight) upgrades over the years buts thats it
They also ditched the fantastic shifter on the g25 with many buttons and even seqential mode.
oh yeah and they are not even including the shifter in the box btw
that desk pad is keeping the mounting from being real secure
Moved from t150 to t300. Feels a lot of difference in sense of wheel speed rotation. By ffb or by hand, so it's made me better at rallying.
Plus can get custom and quite cheap rims, just using baseplate from stock rim, so unscrew 6 central hex bolts and you're done.
Got mine gt3 BMW M6 wheel for about 40 USD made from aluminium plate and 3d printed handles. Also custom wheel is lighter so ffb is more accurate and rim is wider, like in real car.
And you can upgrade the pedals to the TLCM load cell pedals that are not expensive , and you end up with a better customizable wheel, better wheel base with more power and not noisy, and a way better load cell pedals, that has nothing to envy to a DD wheel set. I just upgraded the pedals because didn´t like the standard ones that came with my T300 RS GT and inmediately took off several seconds from my lap times. This TM set is a no brainer vs the noisy Logitec, obviously mounted in a cockpit.
the logitech wheel is like halfway between these. it's better than the t150 but worse than the t300
As far as the loudness I play ETS2 n ATS I just found n bought the g923 is there a way in the settings were I can lower the true force n feedback because the games I play is more of a slow simulation and I may not need all of the toro are true force feedback good stuff man
The logitech g29 is a great wheel especially because brand new its often available for $200 usd on Amazon i bought mine about 3 yrs ago at the height of the pandemic i wouldve got the t300rs gt but the price was significantly higher I've finally upgraded to the fanatec gt dd pro but still have my g29 for now so I haven't used the fanatec yet while the ffb on the g29 isn't the strongest it gets the job done for arguably the actual best budget wheel
I just bought a second hand G29 from Ebay for $270, hoping I like it.
There is a aluminium bracket that can help with the noise. Have ordered one to see how it improves the noise
Ive always used the controller for racing games but recently ive been looking at these two.
As a first time user of a wheel for racing sims, i guess ill be amazed with whatever one i choose.
Ill be using it on xbox series x for wrc and Forza games.
you are missing out on GT7 PSVR2 🏁
for just a little bit more you could have had a direct drive setup, a moza r5 with pedals would cost you 500 or 600 euro depending on where you are in the world.
and you can't compare a direct drive setup with either of those two you tried, but they still are great for a starter...
My g923 stopped working just 2 months after I bought it! Then got a replacement and one of the pedals would not register at all... so third time around and a headache of customer support i got another replacement(they wouldn't just replace the pedals) and the vibration noise was 10x worst then the first too... in the end I sold it and got a Thrustmaster T300RS and im just loving it! only issues is sometimes I forget to switch modes when going from PC to PS5 and I have to unplug and plug it back in with the switch put to the mode I want. Other then that I will only recommend Thrustmaster now!
Awesome review! I bought my son the 923 it was on sale on Amazon recently then I seen your video regarding the other one. I do like the belt mechanism on the other wheel but my kid is 9 I think he will be good with the 923.
Plan on buying the GT OMEGA APEX Wheel Stand do u happen to know where I can by the cockpit seat? Or does anyone else reading this comment know where I can find the seat? Per amazon said it’s upgradable to buy that part and online I seen it was sold out so trying to find replacement if needed.
Thanks!
If you had hardmounted them your conclusion would be very different
But aparently the G923 is probably the best wheel for desk mount and pedals on the ground
What is the best one for truck and bus sims? I don't race but like large truck and bus sims so what
wheel system is good for those?
You will want something dd honestly, these don't have enough wheel rotation for truck sims
I have the T300 with the T3PA pedals and the brake mod. Great package.
I just started looking for my first steering wheel. Aren't these a bit too small ? 11 inches in diametre seems small tbh.
the thrustmaster ecosystem gives you much more customization, you can adapt full size real wheel, or go whith their 1:1 sparco rally wheel, f1 wheels etc.. you can always go to TCL-M Pedals for what I would say are th most realistic to an actual car with spring damper customization for the brake, the Thrustmaster TH8A shifter is much more premium and full metal vs logitechs plastic toy shifter. yes the logitech is better if you are only desk mounting, but thrustmaster takes the cake when it is in a proper wheel cockpit or even a stand. Where it really shines is in rally and drift.
I have had the pleasure to test both of these and for me T300 is so much better than G923 in terms of feedback. G923 feels like it tries to give you some vibration into hands, but it doesnt tell you what is happening, because the force is so small. The only downside is the brake pedal on T300, it requires quite a bit of force with the mod, and i feel like you need to mount it to actually use the mod correctly, but the g923 pedals arent really that good either so...
Nice review. I've got a G923 and aside from the noise, it's a nice system to live with. Great interface, premium build quality and finish and impressive pedals. The optional shifter is a disappointment though, I'd love to pair up the Thrust master T8HA shifter with the G923 wheel.
What would you say makes the Logitech shifter a disappointment? I’ve been thinking of getting a shifter
@@istoleurfaceha3527 the feel is a little light and toy like but it works well
hey guys, i'm planning to buy a t300, but i've read reports of breakages in 1 to 2 years of use, does anyone have feedback on this?