Briggs Points to Electronic Coil Conversion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2016
- For those of you who would like to get away from the unreliable point ignition system on your Briggs engine, here is one way I accomplished that. Enjoy!
Part # 398811 is what I used in this video, please verify with Briggs & Stratton if this number is correct for your application.
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If you pull that flywheel (which I wouldn't do) make sure that special Belleville washer is installed cup size towards the flywheel. It's slightly concave and if installed wrong the flywheel will not be seated firmly and could sheer off the sheer key. You have to look closely because it looks like an ordinary washer.
best video i watched on the subject.
Thanks :)
Excellent and simple procedure Thanks
You are welcome!
This is a great fix - thanks!
Yes sir, I thought so too when I ran first ran across it. The cool part is if all else fails you still have your points as a backup.
Big Help Thanks for the Video
One fine video.
Thanks :)
Actually it's easier to reinstall the flywheel with the slot pointing down. Just put the flywheel key in the flywheel's channel and slide the flywheel onto the shaft. Simply use your finger or thumb to keep the key from falling out until you line up the flywheel.
I found this out when reinstalling a heavy cast iron flywheel on an older Briggs engine. It's much easier.
thanks really appreciated will solved easily my problem now
You're welcome!
"Daddy, get over here". LOL!
I have a 10 hp Briggs. How do i find a coil for it being it was designed with points originally? If i look on Amazon say how do i find the correct one?A 10 hp coil is larger then a 5 hp coil
Thank you. Is your Briggs engine model 190402? That's what I have on my Toro 826 snow blower. Also, is the plunger easily removed and plugged up or should I just leave it alone for now?---not sure if it'll leak oil like people say it will.....
And good idea leaving the points in case you want to go back to that.
FYI, for people who can't remove their jammed fly wheel, I tilted my snow blower up so it's weight is on the housing and the fly wheel is now facing the ceiling. Then soaked it big time (especially around the key) with liquid wrench. After one day of doing this it slid right off. Hope that helps somebody who can't pry it off by banging on it.
Mine is a 190412 model, real close though. I left mine in place and haven't had an issue with it so far, but either way, I think it would still be fine. If you choose to silicone it up, I'd make sure it's clean, & use a good quality sealant.
You didn’t have to take the points out of it you could’ve left them in
Hello, I am working on a 12hp cast iron Briggs from an allis chalmers b112. I am in the process of trying to eliminate the points. I am using the original coil and purchased a ignition module kit, that uses the wire from the coil to the points (sniped) and wire in the module instead to that wire. I did this was kind of skeptical on how the timing could remain precise. To my surprise with the engine outside of the tractor. It fired off of ether no problem. (Only ran for around 6 seconds) so I got all excited and installed the engine. Attempted the exact same scenario as before and now it's popping back through the intake and the odd backfire out of the exhaust. Now I don't know what to think. Was it a fluke before? How were you able to accomplish this to work? I have read I need to repolarize my flywheel magnet? Can you please shed some light on this. For some reason I am stumped. Thanks
Just saw the comment, I don't know if you've got it figured out yet.I wish I had a good answer for you but in this case I'm not real sure. This is a problem I haven't encountered, it does sound like the timing is off. In my application it worked just fine, as a matter of fact It kept my house going during Hurricane Mathew, never skipped a beat. I suspect it may have more to do with the fly wheel and magnets then anything else, I would however double check the clearance between the coil and flywheel, make sure nothings come loose, and make sure the flywheel hasn't loosened up on you, beyond that I'm not sure. I think I've heard of flywheel polarization issues before but not sure if that's causing it, or how you go about fixing it for that matter. Hope you get it figured out, best of luck.
Yellowdog02 hello I figured it out, seems Maybe my ground wasn't good on the module. She is running great now
Awesome, glad to hear it worked out for you. That one little upgrade makes for much more reliable setup.
Magnetron is the name of briggs electronic ignition coil. Also that breaker plunger will wear and leak oil. Thats why you install metal plug .
Good information to know if I have trouble with an oil leak in the future. :)
Thx
No problem
So the new coils don't have the trigger button anymore?
if your referring to the points... then yes, they discharge without the points.
No,I was referring to the older Magnetron coils with the button or contact beside the leg, that triggered the spark.Your coil and the one I just got doesn't have this. Was there anything else you needed beside the coil? Just trying to figure whether this will work,and if this is the new style coil. Thanks.
OK, I got it.
I cant say 100% that the one I put on this generator will work, but I "Think" it will. If I remember right there was a reference to the magnatron coil in the paper work with the coil. Here's a good reference video that may shed some more light on the subject.
th-cam.com/video/KvBx4Mh1Lvw/w-d-xo.html
About 12 min in he covers some of the issues with the magantron coils. Issues such as having your flywheel re-polarized due to the north south polarity having to be reversed if replacing with a different style coil. I hope this helps.
Well,the one I got looks like the one you put on,so I guess I'll try it.Thanks
@@johnwrigley1624 what's the part number? I'm looking to do the same upgrade.
What's the serial number for that coil
Part # 398811 is what I used in this video, please verify with Briggs & Stratton if this number is correct for your application.
Set your coil clearance with the card between the magnet and the coil.
Thanks for the tip 😊
That is a straight key. A woodruff key is half moon shape. The thickness of the card is used for the clearance between the flywheel and coil. Not the tolerance. Other wise great job.
Thanks... my terminologies may not always be on point, but I try :)
What is the part number for the briggs coil used in this video? Thanks
39881 was the one I bought for my application.
@@Yellowdogsworld Thank you!!
@@Yellowdogsworld Great video
@@Yellowdogsworld I think you missed an "8". Should be 398811 as you said at the top.
That music?
It was a tune in the royalty free youtube library.
I would shorten the plug wire.....
Woodruff key has a radius and a flat. If that was a Woodruff key you wouldn't be able to get that in it's place.
Thanks for the tip,
I guess its just a key then, I've never been to good with terminologies :)
Woodruff keys are semicircular shaped.
yep.. you are correct. Tomato / Tomaaaato, :)
Looks like an iron flywheel, so it must be a pretty old engine. If it "still works" then "keep using it."
The date code on the engine indicated it is a 1980 model... its been a tough unit since I saved it from the scrap yard a few years ago :)
No need to pull the flywheel. Just cut the wires. You are making the job way too complicated.
Very true, I pulled mine since I wanted to salvage the condenser and hardware in case I needed it in the future. You are right though, just to get it done, cut the wire and move on.
I appreciated seeing it removed, even if not necessary, is there any benefit at all from removing it? Also what tool is that, that you used to remove that?
1. The tool was a simple gear puller set I bought from a local auto parts store, around here they are more commonly known as a crows foot gear puller "looks like a crows foot". I had to come up with some bolts to fit the flywheel since the set did not have the right size.
2. There really is no mechanical advantage for removing the points and condenser. However as i mentioned in the video, in the event I need to go back an put the original coil set back on, by removing it this way there are no cut wires to worry about, just bolt on adjust the points, and coil gap and your up and running.
Thank You very Much. When Good People like yourself make these helpful videos, you really help people, especially in places where there is a real lack of this type of information. Thank You and may you always have the strength to continue to help others! Much Appreciated.
Briggs sells a starter clutch removal tool that hooks onto your air impact gun and a 7/8" socket. Part #19244. $14.01 on Amazon. So much better than breaking the fins on your flywheel or the ears on the starter clutch.
Also that gap between the armature and the flywheel(the thickness of the business card) should be 0.10 - 0.14", not 0.25".