Upgrading Ignition System on Briggs & Stratton Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2018
- In this video I go over the steps on upgrading the old points ignition system to electronic ignition on a Briggs and Stratton engine. It’s simple and easy to do. The engine featured in this video is a 5 HP Briggs engine on a Snapper garden tiller.
Servicing Ignition System on Briggs 5 HP Engine
• Servicing An Ignition ... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![บุษบา - เมนทอล [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IGnWPokSEis/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm glad you pointed out the difference between vertical and horizontal shaft engine magnetos. I hadn't realized that.
This was terrific. I was looking for a wiring diagram to replace a points and condenser system and this simplified the process! Now just gotta find the right coil!
You have a knack for keeping it clear and simple. Good video.
I heard that cluck from your chicken in the back round noise. She gave you a thumbs up on the presentation.
Excellent. I wish I would have found this video first. Thanks a million!
THANK YOU Mike. This is so good to know about the upgrade. Also, a lot of information I never knew, although I "messed" with some old engines like that years ago. I look forward to watching all of your videos. You are a very good teacher.
Thank you for watching and for your support!
@@MikesGarage96 how about the flapper that connects with the carburetor linkages do you delete it i didn't see you put it back and will it work fine with out it
thank you so much. greetings from germany.
GREAT VIDEO. I love your OBS Ford, too!
Just a FYI, I ordered my new magneto style coil yesterday, should receive it tomorrow (4/10/2020), and will be putting it to the test! I seriously can't wait to try it!
I purchased part number: 397358
Excellent. clear concise. please make more vids!
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This video was exactly what I was looking for! Clearly and simply explained. Going to perform this procedure on a 1960's Simplicity snowthrower that has a B&S 7 HP 170402 (contacted B&S directly for the correct coil part number).
I have a question about the kill switch wire - is that the second wire that comes out from behind the flywheel and attaches to the frame under the carburetor? Do I just cut the old wire like the points/condenser wire? And then wire the new coil to the same mounting point by the carb?
Thanks so much for this!
Well done! Thanks.
Thank you so much.
Need help .... I have 3hp same engine which coil would I buy and from where ??? Please help if you can
Thanks Mike! A point of confusion: I know the kill switch works by grounding the coil so it can't fire. But you show two wires going to the same tab on the coil, one you say goes to an engine ground and the other to the kill switch. It seems the tab attached to ground would have the coil always grounded out, independent of the kill switch, and that there would never be a spark. What am I missing? Thanks again.
It only grounds that wire when you move the throttle to stop. That nut is isolated from the metal so it doesn't ground all the time. The other end works off the points for spark.
My 8hp vertical Briggs had no spark, I sanded the flywheel magneto so it’s clean. I changed the coil to this one and installed everything and it still don’t have spark. The spark plug looks okay visually but I’m thinking it may be the culprit. I don’t know what else to do. Any tips?
Does a 1972 Briggs 2hp 60102 use the same coil as the 5hp.
Hey I got a ? I got a 3hp Briggs Stratton has points i am not getting any spark the points condenser looks brand new i cleand the coil flywheel nothing either the coil is bad or does this engine have a kill wire?? There is not the meta tab on top by the spark plug there is a wire by the carb thats wrapped around a tab is that the kill wire im thinkn the kill switch is off not letting it get spark please help thanks
Thanks Mike. Where did you wire in the kill switch ? Also I was very happy to see what appears to be a Merry Tiller. My father and I bought one back in the mid 60's. It is the simplest hardest working tiller of its type ever ! Wish I could find one here in Australia. A real golden oldy ! Hang onto it like grim death sir. Thank you for a great video ! Alex ( ex pat Canadian )
Theres a tab on the throttle control linkage under the tank that the wire fits into. When the throttle cable is put in the off position, it grounds out. Many times on these old style Briggs, them things get rusty and broken. In that case, I’ll get a universal toggle switch to wire it to. And other end of switch to a good ground. When the switch is open, it’ll run. And when the switch is closed, it’ll ground out to turn the engine off. You can get momentary button switches to do the same thing also.
mine is just like that old motor can not find a model number so was hoping that you would have given a part number on that coil its identical to mine and it is also electronic but is bad but no parts number on an old 5 hp model horizontal
Here's a question! We followed your video (thank you very much!) Got everything back together, pulled the cord and it started right away, but then died 20 secs later, and we can't get it going now. And there's a backfire happening in the carb. Any suggestions?
Check the flywheel key, make sure it hasn’t sheared. If that’s good, I’d look into the carburetor.
@@MikesGarage96 THANK YOU SO MUCH! For your reply and your video. Running like a charm!
Great. Do you know the new part's number for the (1978) B&S 80202-0855-02 engine? Thanks
Did you end up grounding and running to the kill switch?
What is the Briggs part number for the new coil?..... I have the same engine (130202).... Thanks
398811
397358
If you go to the parts store with that number your going to get the wrong part......
Where do you buy your parts? I’m not sure if online ( certain website) or Napa auto parts, or lawn mower shop?
Do you ever need to remove the engine from the body to remove the flywheel? Mine is really stuck on there and I'm wondering if I'm just not prying enough. I don't want to damage anything.
Lightly taps it with a hammer to add vibration to it or add some sort of vibration as you pry it off.
heat and oil, heat and oil, heat and oil, heat and oil... to the flywheel/crank snout interface for a week before actually PRYING gently under the solid part of flywheel and a SOLID point on the block and give the crank snout a quick rap with hammer and it shd pop looose . put the nut on the threads on the crank snout to protect the threads on crank snout from damage if u miss with the hammer... dont miss with the hammer. it shdnt take that much hammer force to get the flywheel off if u heat and use oil, heat and oil heat and oil of the center of the flywheel where it is rusted to the crank snout. lay motor over so GRAVITY is on ur side for oil to run in between the stuck crank snout and the gd flywheel that has been left out in the rain forever like a instead of in covered shed. i lightly oil my crank snout/flywheel hole when i put it back together so if i have to take it apart again it isnt such a struggle. i also use valve grinding compound on the flywheel hole/crank snout interface to roughen up the 2 surfaces so they MATE together. the timing key is just for timing. the friction fit of the flywheel nut at 50 POUND FEET OF TORQUE is what holds the flywheel on, not the key. the TIMING key is just for timing. the deal is with the recoil start ratchet ppl just tap it "tight" and that is NOT 55 FT/lbs of torque that the flywheel nut is supposed to have to get the flywheel nut TIGHT to keep the flywheel ON THE CRANK SNOUT. too bad the special tool is so expensive as it is no longer made $30 for that special tool to get the starter ratchet thing on / off the crank snout??? I DONT THINK so.
I used a big three jaw gear puller to get the flywheel off my 10 hp Briggs & Stratton vertical crank lawn tractor engine. Mine hadn't been off since I bought it 41 years ago. Boy was it on TIGHT! Made a huge snapping noise when it finally came off. Banging on it with a hammer would not have been good idea.
Prying with a big lever also wouldn't have worked and would have damaged whatever I was able to use
the lever on. My gear puller came with a three piece set pretty cheap from Harbor Frgt.
good work help me out desmond in ireland
did u hook the wires up to something?
Awesome,, Can I get new stickers for my tiller?
There’s a large selection of reproduction stickers on EBay. Here’s one of them
www.ebay.com/i/153502289358?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=153502289358&targetid=884307440789&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010629&poi=&campaignid=9338046410&mkgroupid=92724249057&rlsatarget=aud-762207186714:pla-884307440789&abcId=1139336&merchantid=102006735&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJz3BRDTARIsAMg-HxU1y9OdCnPE2qcCEPZ1Kb3Z6C_aHHAlECfZ8SiFxH3hRDrbfMT0oNoaAv45EALw_wcB
i still dont under stand why you have to take the fly wheel off........just change the coil and thats that...wtf
You’re suppose to clip the wires at the points cover behind the flywheel so they don’t wrap around the crankshaft. If you know better, then are you watching this video?
He said the flywheel key was broken. He will be replacing it again because he only tightened the starter clutch hand tight. I think the torque is about 50 or 55 ft. Lbs. There is no need to remove the flywheel because the wires can simply be yanked out by hand or with pliers.