How to Test A Lawn Mower - Ignition Coil Magneto With A Multimeter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hi and welcome to Micks Mowers How to Test A Lawn Mower -Briggs And Stratton Coil Magneto With a multimeter
Is there no spark in the engine of your lawn mower, snow blower or outdoor power equipment? Follow this guide to test your ignition system - including coil, switch & module - to identify any problems and troubleshoot repairs. once you have found the problem your can then replace it is needed.. thanks for watching
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Amazing instructor, you simplify the test of a coil. Thank You and God Bless.
You are welcome
Excellent demonstration! Thank you for being so specific. I'm glad that you used defective coils to compare them to the good coils.
Thanks from Texas! I bought a cheap Amazon coil and it only lasted about a year. I bought another cheap Amazon coil because they are about 1/4 the price of an OEM coil, and since they only take about 20 minutes to switch out, I'll take my chances again. Its great to be able to test these coils and KNOW if they work or not! For those who don't own a set of gap spacers, a regular business card works just as well to set the gap from the engine.
Great comment ta for watching
So this test is the test basically for all coils mine is on a 12.5 Kohler very informative & many thanks perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday ! Will proceed with mounted coil of course saves work leaving installed if good coil ! 👍
Very straight forward video. Thanks for making it pretty simple and I learned a lot. Cheers...
Thanks Mick !! That was easy ! I have been trying to learn about small engines through your channel and a few others and until now haven't seen one on testing coils. Much appreciated
Oh your welcome mate hope it helps. If you need any videos doing let me know. I'm looking into doing Mick's top tips
Very good channel with great video. I have tested coils like this for years. Sometimes a coil will test good and then not work when it gets hot from the engine heat. If you have a coil that has a heat up problem you can take a bit of tractor trailer repair tape and wrap it around the coil body. This acts as a heat barrier and heat sink.
The tape is aluminum on one side and black sticky tar on the other. Just cut a small piece and place it on the outer plastic body of the coil. This will keep the coil ast a constant temp.
I believe the coil wires inside have thin or cracked insulation coating. The wire looks like it is bare but actualy has a coil of polymer. This polymer will crack and get hard over time. Then the coil voltage is affected.
On hot days my tiller will stop running. The coil tests great when on the bench. After about 10 minutes of running it stops with no spark. The coil is directly over top the piston head and cooling fins. The heat rises and the coil starts to short internaly. I put the trailer repair tape on the bottom and wrapped it around to the top. The metal part of the coil does not get tape. I installed the coil and it has been working now for 5 seasons.
Hope this fix can help someone with a similar problem.. Cheers!
Ta for the information mate I appreciate it
Thanks, you saved me a lot of time plus mechanics in this area prefer bikes to small engines.
No worries
Thank you mick that was a very easily learned well taught lesson ! That was definitely down and dirty!
I hadn't changed the spark plug th-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN in my Toro 20" Recycler in the 6 years I've had it but have been good with all other maintenance. This season I noticed it sputtering a little bit every so often and just didn't feel like it was running as smoothly or as powerful as it used to. Switched out the spark plug for a new one yesterday and could immediately tell an improved difference. So I may have to make this a little more regular than every 6 years, especially for a $5 part!
Thank you. Brought back an old machine back to productive life.
Your welcome
Great video Mick. A multimeter is a very useful tool. Use mine all the time. In fact used this morning to prove to my brother in law it was because the battery was flat that my sister’s vehicle wouldn’t start. He swore blind he had a battery charger on it an he had charged it up. Anyway after an hour of charging she started up no problem. Saved them calling a mechanic for a 1 minute test with a cheap multimeter!
Yeah that's it.. a quick way to test..
I must have missed this video at first. Ah, we lost the internet for a day or so because of a lightning strike that took out out wifi modem, phone system and tv. Anyway I found this electrifying video this afternoon. Great way to test these coils. I never knew that. Thanks for the great information. Thanks for sharing the video with us. Stay safe.
I call Foul! lol Why? Well....you're MY Sub! But....I digress....at least you pick good blokes to watch, so I'll give you a pass my good friend lol. Cheers!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Not sure why the call of foul so that messes with my little mind. I now shall have to sit on the floor and cross my legs and think OOOHHHMMM,
Thank you for explaining this Mick. Have ordered one right now, takes the guesswork out of it and replacing coils just in case. If you are on a tight budget might save someone that bit of money.
Hi mate.. yes exactly.. it's an easy task and saves so much time.. thanks for watching
Spot on very well done Mick!!!
Went to a screw fix to pick up a multi meter not so much as a purse on that coil Mick enjoyed the live stream was helpful in so many ways and thanks for the question shout sir Mick
Thanks for the straight forward no BS explanation. Now I'm off to fix my pressure washer. Cheers ! from Canada's Westcoast
Your welcome..
Very good video Mick! Very useful info and well explained
Very helpful video, my coil was showing 11 so I knew my problems were not with coil, after some cleaning out if the carburettor, I got my mower working. Thanks for the help.
Fantastic
Thanks for very good effective and simple test.
Good video. Very helpful when diagnosing a no start mower.
Thanks ed your stickers have just showed up
This saved me ..I had a very intermittent starting issue this season on my 21 year old Toro CCR2450 snow thrower where 80% of the time it would start and run great. When I tried to troubleshoot it twice of course it ran great and the spark looked ok. Then I tested the magneto (Briggs) and it had 1k ohms resistance ... not 2.5k. I replaced the magneto and all is well again. Thank you so much!
You are very welcome my friend.. that's what the video is for..
Great and informative, especially if you do not have a workshop manual to show you the ohms specs and limits.Good that you showed
the different types of coils too.Cheers.
Your welcome
Once all said a very insightful video, thank you
Very helpful! Thank you Sir!
Thanks for sharing that Mick you are a star have got exactly the same multi meter as you have got there 👍👍👍👍
Your welcome Alan mate hope it helps
Thanks Mick, Great video explaining a how to for coils
Your welcome mate
Thank you. Very useful. Straight forward.
Your welcome
Just gave you thumbs up #300 Mate! I've missed a few of your videos, and for that I apologize! I am a bit busy and there are a lot of us small engine guys out there that I try to keep up with. It was great chatting on the LS yesterday. Hope all is well! Cheers Mate! Zip~
Awesome video thank you for showing how to check them coils
No problems mate
Enjoyed watching this again to remind me . .
well done. I suggest before throwing out that Honda coil, check the plug end on the plug wire - the end screws onto the wire and sometimes if that's done multiple times, the wire becomes buggered, breaking the contact. The wire also screws into the coil itself - check that end as well. The briggs coils all have the wire manufactured right into the coil itself, but the end can be check on some this way as well.
Yeah I did check it.. it's no good ta for watching
Great demo . Very well explained
Ta mate
first class keep it simple many thanks
Simple to point video ty
Clearest, simplest vido I've seen! Wish I'd seen it a long time ago.
New magneto/coil has come with TWO wires; black, and black with white stripe. I suppose the b/w goes ...Well, I suppose nothing, I just ask what do I do?? Anyone?
Good information Mick, thanks.
Thanks Very much for watching
Great test Mick, done it on the old coil from the "OLD" mower this morning and reading was 11.8 on all 3 surfaces, so will send that new coil back. New mower doing great mate & getting used to the "Self Drive" now. Keep up the great work & say hello to Riley Boy 👍👍
Fantastic news mate
Good video Bloke. However, the older Briggs & Stratton coil has three coils inside, plus a couple of transistors that control the direction of the currrent flow in the primary. I.e, there's the high voltage winding that you're checking, but there's also the primary winding plus a trigger winding on that little metal post on the bottom of the coil. No way to check either the primary or the trigger winding, or the transistors, as far as I know. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers!
I checked the continuity on the coil and all is good but the mower still won't start? Cleaned the spark plug the carb is pumping fuel and it still won't start, so what else could it be?
Thank you
Thank You for your easy to understand info!
You are welcome
Great tip on checking the coil 👍🏻
Ta for watching mate
Man I’m working on a briggs flathead welder right now buddy thanks for the knowledge this really helps I’m losing spark so thanks a million
Great video! Very helpful!! Thank you!!!
Your welcome mate
Excelent explained , Many Thanks for your time !
Your welcome
My magneto checked out fine. It's were the 2 contacts that go up against the center wheel were gumed up and not making a contact. Business card with, perfect. Thank you for how to test.
Your welcome mate.. glad you got yours sorted
Thanks Mick, very helpful 👍🏻
Your welcome.. hope it helps
Thanks from St. Louis, Missouri... SUPER HELPFUL
Your welcome
Thank you from Kansas.
Thanks Mick very good teacher thanks oh, keep up the good work
Thanks mate I appreciate your feedback
Now that's a helpful vid, superb cheers mick
Welcome mate
Resistance readings from a coil/CDI unit, will indicate if there is an open circuit, but not whether the insulation or semiconductors are breaking down when running.
Best vid out there on the subject... Thank you very much...
Your welcome
Very helpful thanks
I am coming back (watching videos again } Nice meter.
Thanks me old friend. Was good talking last night
Great test wish I done that yesterday had the carb out in bits petrol all over me lol ordered coil well done
No worries
A nice informative video Mick.
Thanks mate just a quick and easy video..
Thanks Man........from Nebraska USA (Found my coil wire is broken in the boot) Also a new coil was bad from the factory.
Glad I was able to help ya out
Cheers Mick. Coils can also fail short circuit as well as open circuit. If they are open circuit it could be the HT lead though they are hard to replace the way they are built.
Yes mate they can see and Alos when hot it's part of the process we have to follow to find the fault
Great tip.
Your welcome
Excelent video this just helped me diagnose a briggs and stratton coil 😏👌
Fantastic.. glad it helped
Thanks allot for sharing this with us appreciations 👍🙏🇩🇰
Your welcome
Very good video again mate. Great work 👍🏻
Thanks mate .. hope your good me old mucker
The bad ones are bad- Sec side tested. BUT the good ones can STILL be bad as the primary and switching in the modules can fail. really only way to be sure is check for spark when on machine or swap with known good. Also you can have heat breakdown in the windings causing HOT shorting and failure but starts cold well and will start to misfire/fail when hot after running a while. Caused by insulation material burning off inside and wires touching and thus less coil windings for good spark and you MAY still get a weak spark but it wont fire the mixture. or a little bit only. Very messy to diagnose as it seems engine runs well for 20 mins then vapour lock? with fuel starvation or a bad coil cutting out then.
Good communication mate
Easy Peesy nice and simple explanation thanks
No worries
Thanks Mick!
You welcome mate
Thank you mick, that was a clear ,easy to understand, demonstration !
Brill class mick iv got to get a tester i like that one you make it look easy cheers...
Well I try to make it easy for other to get the job done.. thanks for watching
@@themowerman plessure i like that tester to looks ok to use
Great video mick.
Ta mate
Awesome audio. Had no problem hearing you Mick.
Fantastic thanks mate
I learned something new.
well explain mick
Ta mate
Thanks! great video.
Your welcome brother
Great info thanks
No worries
Good information mate .
Thanks Peter pan..
How's she goin'? Great way to do a quick test on coils Mick. Thanks for sharing. Handy to be able to do this!!! Take care!!
Your welcome my friend.. have you got that saw cutting straight yet lol
@@themowerman Working on it buddy!!!
Thanks my grandpa needed this
Your welcome
Mick, your video solved a problem. My mower showed a small spark at each lanyard pull, but would not start. Early in the video, you reveal a coil can spark, but too weakly to start the engine. QED-- now to find a reasonably-priced ignition coil.
* PS-- Your Midlands accent is a killer.
Lol Midlands.. I'm south coast lol
@@themowerman Sorry-- only a few hundred miles off. Portsmouth?.
Thank you.
Your welcome
great vid helped me big time🙂
Your welcome
Hi mike not sure if your red lead should be on the common socket but at the end of the day it’s a lead. Thanks for sharing.
I believe it to be correct mate
You can have good resistance readings on a coil and it can still be bad. This test does not test the condition of the semiconductors within the ignition module. A spark test at pull cord rpm's would be a more accurate test.
Exactly.... If it don't spark...Change the plug.... if it still don't spark. it's bad. End of story. (But we all love to know WHY!? Don't we?)
@@patagualianmostly7437 Not quite my friend. if there is corrosion between the coil body and the engine then you will get no spark and my friend you will have spent out on a coil for nothing. how many coils have you replaced on you're change the plug principal? maybe you were throwing good coils out when you didn't need to? A £10-00 millimetre may have saved you money. Great tutorial as usual Sir Micks
Yes, but I think the coils shown were not electronic. I agree, if electronic then you can have a good testing coil on the bench. But I may have an intermittent fault. This can happen after a short run when a component in the electronics intermittently fails .
@@swarfs They are electronic. They have a Darlington pair transister within to increase the pulse to higher level.
Will I see a spark only if the plug is connected to an earth ? Or will I still see it if I just hold the lead with the spark plug connected in my hand
Nice and simple to follow, thanks Mick. New solenoid, ignition coil is fine (4.36 across all points) and a new sparkplug n battery. It turns over but still nothing. Any suggestions? Husqvarna 125 and it worked two weeks ago... I'm stumped😞
Could it be a timing issue
Good bit of info there mick
Thanks mate a simple test to save time and money.. hope all is good your end
Thanks for doing this video my friend
No problem 👍
Hi Mick. Thanks for the link to see how to test a coil. My meter is different. What is the setting I'm looking for please?
Mick, here is a new development in my mower ignition coil problem. Originally, the mower had hit a half-buried tree root, mangled its blade and sheared its crankshaft key. Both blade and flywheel key have been replaced, after great effort. and with care to proper alignment of the key channel and flywheel.
1. For a brief period, my ignition coil had produced a small spark, and I heard a single, soft detonation when I pulled the starting lanyard a few times, but the mower could not start or sustain any rpm on its own fuel.
2. When starting fluid was injected into the carburetor, the motor ran briefly, which indicates there was still a spark. But on its own fuel, the motor produced no detonation. Now-- with even starting fluid-- there is no sound of detonation when the lanyard is pulled.
3. This afternoon, I checked the ignition coil with the standard external test-wire-to-ground (earth), and there is no spark. Although I have used my VOM set to Ohms (20k), and still get a consistent and satisfactory reading of 4.63 on both ends of the ignition coil, and on the deadman's switch (reading taken when switch was disconnected), there is no spark and no detonation on lanyard pull.
Although I had planned to purchase another coil, I held out hope the 4.63 reading meant the original coil was still OK, since the value was between 2.50 and 5-6.0. Is this clear proof that even a good reading on a physically-intact coil can be misleading?
Hi mate. Sorry for not replying but I’m not getting any notifications of some comments for some reason. Sounds like a good coil. Double check the Ht boot and ht clip. If need be take it off and re attach it. If not then it sounds like a new coil is needed
Thanks you have explained exactly the same problem as what I have been having with an ignition coil on a disc cutter . The readings come back fine , I’ve checked the the ht lead for continuity fine .I’ve noticed most people on you tube are just reposting videos of others with there own take , subsequently I’ve put a coil on from a working disc cutter and it now works as it should . These methods don’t seem to be the rule as I have had the same problem as you . Thanks for posting 👍
@@bobjit252 your welcome
@@themowerman Mick, here is a status update on the suspected ignition coil issue. I replaced the original coil with a new one, and now, Ohm readings are even higher, and with a clear, strong spark.
@@bobgreene2892 what was the reading?
Not bad Mick.... But your knowledge of Multimeters was clearly basic...as you admitted. (BTW: That's not a bad meter for the price!)
The Black lead ALWAYS goes to the COM (Common) socket. It is the red lead that gets switched around for different functions.
When making simple resistance tests on the coils as you did....it is not really an issue..... Red wire, black wire....electricity is colour blind!
However... if you were testing a battery and you put your two probes across the battery.... In your case, the red onto the +ve terminal and the black onto the -ve terminal... The display would read "-12v" (A car battery, say.) because you have reversed the connections to the meter.
If you reconnect the meter leads as I say, Black to COM...the meter will read simply "12v"...as is the accepted display (NOT +12v...as one might expect.)
It also gets a bit complicated when testing Diodes (Of which there are two in some 2 cylinder Ride-on Mowers for instance)
This is because the meter supplies a voltage to check the flow direction... (A DC voltage obviously, from its own internal battery...just as it does to measure resistance...as you demonstrated.) So it is important to know which lead is actually +VE & which is -VE.....
(Mind you: Most diode failures are either Open Circuit in both directions or shorted in both directions: Either result is a failure, of course.)
Within these more modern coil packs, there is a couple of transistors arranged in a "Darlington-Pair" these eliminate the need for points as they switch current in the primary winding... causing the "Collapsing Magnetic field" which in turn causes the huge Step-up voltage in the secondary.....
....which of course, becomes the "Spark" we are always looking for at the spark plug..... (Phew.... Got there!)
But, you are of course right.... basic resistance checks of the two windings will tell you if a pack is a duff one. Immediately.
...we need to remember: We are only checking two windings....not the trigger circuit electronics.
And another factor I have found over the years..... A cold coil pack can work fine.... then goes bad as it warms up on the machine: Windings expand & short out.
Due to heat or vibration....windings...or electronics? Who can say with such sealed units? It's the way of the world Folks!
Great show brother 👏 👍
Ta mate
22r Mick's mowers
Mil gracias compa ur video amazing thanks a lot,saludos desde Michoacán Mex gracias
Your welcome my friend
I did same thing on mine lawnmower,but guess what I think doesn't pass gas true the motor,what can I do about it
@@luisegallegos8120 what do you mean
@@themowerman what I mean it's I fix the problem from spark thing,but now, I think gas doesn't goes thru the engine,what can I do about it,I'm sorry to bother you. Mil gracias
@@luisegallegos8120 clean the carburetor..
Maybe I'm wrong, but is the iron core not a single piece ? With the primary and secondary coils wound around the centre part ? Then it stands to reason that with one lead plugged into the spark plug connector and the other lead alternating between the left and right metal pick up above the magneto ... would result in exactly the same readings. You're taking two readings from the same metal core.
👌👌
Fine and dandy for simple Ohms readings but if you are doing DC volts or diode testing you put the leads on backwards....
My rudimentary electrical knowledge makes me always put the negative lead at the end destination since electricity travels to ground. Continuity checks doesn't matter just mild OCD. :-)
Hi mick, briggs coils like to be under 5000 ohms ( 3000-4000 ohms) anything over this is pointing to a coil going bad. Also red lead goes in com, although not critical for this test. Keep up the good work 👍
Ta brother
Actually I made mistake Black lead goes in COM not red otherwise if you test a car battery for example if the red lead was in COM it would show -12v and not the normal 12v. Hope that makes sense
hello if it is extremely hard to start a chain saw using starting fluid , what would be the most likely cause?
Timing, piston rings, leak by, carb, coil, could be lots of things
good
Might want to say the reading is actually 6.22 K ohms, some might get it confused with 6.22 ohms.
Only coil testing video that I could understand. Thank you Mick.
Ta mate
Nice video. Thanks very much for posting. I have recent acquired a castle garden el63 ride on lawnmower which has no spark. I believe there are five safety switches which can give you no spark if they are not met but now I have another thing to look at. Have you ever worked on one of these. Doesn’t seem to be a lot of information about these out there at all which is a bit of a shame.
Do you think you could do a video on safety switches for the larger lawnmower?
Keep up the good work
Ryan
Thanks for the video. Just a note - if you are doing a twin cylinder mower then you will likely need to measure the resistance of the secondary coil through the two leads and not to the ground. (The coil I just installed appears to have one lead hooked to one end of the coil and the other lead to the opposite end. The mower wouldn't spark/run until I hooked up both leads to the spark plugs.)