CHARLES! we TOLD YOU those urethane ones were gonna blow up your car! 🤣 I think you'll like the rubber ones, I put those in my daily 1.8t GTI 6 months ago and couldn't be happier. I used your previous video as a reference, thanks for all you do buddy.
Damn you make that job look so easy 😁 I really miss my two MK IV Golfs I had from new (1x Petrol GTI and a PD150 GTI). Those cars have a special place in my car heaven 👍🏻
Dude you are still my favorite mechanic by far I am so thankful for all the videos you have shared over the years and am happy to tell you I have completed my training and am on my way to becoming a certified automechanic like I said I would be the last time you messaged me back. Again thank you so much for all the knowledge and fun entertaining videos youre the best dude.
Every few months I spray all my bushing and c.v boots with wd 40 silicone spray to keep them in good working order,it also stops them from drying out and cracking in the cold months.
Thanks Charles. Perfect tutorial as always. What bums my son and I out is after we do our careful OCD work like this (I am a huge Hardware Replacer, no matter the cost or car) the Alignment guy goes 'Hammer Handed' on it.
@@tadeuszgladysz7387 Spending your weekend on your knees and getting your hands all bruised up trying to remove steel bits that really don't want to be removed is a strange idea of "fun". Of course it's different if you've got a fully kitted out auto workshop, in which case you probably don't need to be watching this. Other than that you really want to just buy the complete control arms instead and save yourself the pain.
@@BigUriel I agree, a lot of these help you do it yourself channels fail to mention the importance of having a car lift and most of us don't have one which makes all these 'simple do it yourself' jobs extremely hard and time consuming.
You should retitle this suspension 101 part 1. You should also mention to inspect these bushings along with motor & trans mounts every other time you are under your car. Somethings, like bushings are very overlooked wear points. Great vid as usual.
Great video Charles. I have a Passat B7 2012 workhorse ,,Here in the UK we have MOT ( ministry of Transport test ) I had an advisory of VERY LITTLE movement in the rear bearings you were doing,,Getting too old to do my own maintenance now But my local garage are REALLY GOOD ,, I’m now tempted as you make this look SO easy BRILLIANT Explanation Very Clear and understandable. Thank you,,,,But I’ve Decided cos YOU make it look SO easy I’m going to let them do it,,just in case. , Love the vids Keep up the Good Work Best Wishes and STAY SAFE Steve B. ( UK )
sweet. great job dude. I am new to your channel and love the content I have seen so far. I appreciate how you don't skip over the problems that you run into while doing this work. I also appreciate your honesty when you say what to do if you don't have the right tools or parts, because honestly that’s how most of us face these issues, without all of the professional equipment. Thanks for the help on this. I just got new wheels and haven't put them on yet so I decided to inspect the bushings and sure enough mine are toast. Way worse then yours, but mine are probably OEM and have never been replaced. I am the second owner and have about 160,000 miles, so it is way past due. I also will be replacing my strut mounts since those are also toast but I have already replaced those once. I'm gonna use heavy duty ones from ECS Tuning this time.
Did the front control arms bushings on my 05 seat ibiza about a year ago went with powerflex road series. Checked them twice since i installed them no cracks whatsoever really happy with them. Did it on jackstands and had to buy the tool to press out the rear bushings, thankfully it wasnt expensive. A year later and along with endless mods (whiteline anti roll bars front and back with adjustable end links , bc coilovers, vibra technics engine, transmission and dogbone mounts, ultra racing chassi bracings and i couldnt be happier all i need yo complete my suspension is a steel belly pan to protect them and im done with suspension
I just redid all of the rear bushings on my B6 A4 Quattro, it was one of the most frustrating job's I've ever done! That flat lower control arm looks like an absolute dream to press compared to the complex shapes of cast aluminum Audi decided to use in the back end
Poly bushings typically last longer than traditional rubber ones. The hard part about selecting poly bushings is finding a company that has perfected the hardness/softness of the poly. Some aftermarket poly bushings are entirely too soft I've seen that quite a bit on aftermarket jeep bushings. Some are to stiff which is what Charles had an issue with. Too hard or stiff and the bushing can crack.
15:10 I appreciate that you addressed the reuse of the stretch, torque diff and intention to use new one later on alignment. I’ve had VW mechanics recently say regular bolts are fine for the dog bone mount but no advice on change in torque spec…I don’t think he understood tty.
Beautiful work and giving confidence to do it myself, that's what Charles is all about 🎈❤️ And from the looks of things the subframe is support easy to remove too! Future plans! 😎
Charles, Some questions: 1) when this bolt 4:00 was removed the first time (a year before this video was shot), how did you do it without breaking off the captive-nut on the subframe? What type of penetrating oil did you use, and do you possibly recommend using a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone for this purpose? Apparently others on youtube feel that mixture is more effective than store bought penetrating oils. What's your opinion? 2) When this same bolt was removed, is it better to use a hand wrench or impact wrench to slowly/carefully break the bolt free after it has soaked in penetrating oil? 3) Before reinstalling the bolt, should the captive-nut and/or bolt be coated in any way (locktite? anti-seize compound? other?) before reassembly? 4) Is a specific alignment of the subframe necessary when subframe bolts are removed? I realize the control arm/ball joint linkage will require an alignment adjustment, but I'm specifically interested in knowing if an alignment adjustment is necessary on the subframe when those mounting bolts are removed. Outstanding video as usual! Very helpful.
@@HumbleMechanic hi Mr chris can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational motion in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
I'm a woman with a 2012 Passat. Love the car. I was at the dealer this morning and was told I needed to "replace the lower control arm bushing" right side-they want to replace the whole bracket. Sounds good, based upon your vids. Should I replace the left side at the same time or does it matter? Thanks. Love your videos.
Brother, the videos you create are freaking great!!!! Oh, need one more exclamation mark "!!!" Went berserker over there, but the videos are worth it.!!!!! Boom! More exclamation marks. I wish you picked your project car to be the same as my car, so the information will match and I can start wrenching. Good stuff, my man. Keep doing the videos. I'll keep doing my part and click on the adverts even though I don't need what they are selling. 😂 🤣
Here's the thing about poly bushings, you don't want them in areas where movement is not rotating with the axis of the inner sleeve. They'll almost never fail if they're rotating on the sleeves axis but because they're so solid that flat rear bushing just splits.
I’m assuming you didn’t need to support the engine because it was still being held by the engine mounts up top and you didn’t fully remove the 6 bolts? Any where else would of told you 1000 times to support it with a jack etc. Loved the video and it’s gonna help when I gotta do mine in the next couple of days
All VW from that time use the same exact bushings. They even use the same exact control arm.. And it's known flaw that those bushings fail very frequently. One pothole and its done.. I've changed them few times... But only the back ones on the control arm, the front will never wear out, i use the original ones from 20 years ago and they work perfectly..
Hey Humble! Tks for this video!Let me ask you something. Shouldnt You torq the bushings only with the car wheels on the ground? My teacher aways said that all suspentions rubber parts adjust better when the weight is on it and that this procedure avoid bushings getting cracked by torsion when finally the car get to the ground. Once again, tks for all of your videos!
I like the idea of going OE -> Aftermarket - > OE, provides some real concrete testing of the value. AND maybe, just maybe, VW had it right in the first place.
Older, single lady, that is so grateful for you and your videos. I have a 2012 Jetta SEL. I always review the repair before I let the shop work on my vehicle, so as to have a idea of the extent of the repair and parts required . I do take my vehicle to a reputable European auto shop. ( but, you can never be to informed). You mention the nuts are one time use, and replace the two bolts..when I look up the OEM bushing, there’s no reference to the nuts and bolts. Is that just common knowledge to a tech to replace those? Thank you again!
So when you look them up they say to replace. If they are (tty)Torque to yield stretch bolts they need replaced because they don’t have same clamping force they originally had with torque specs. Guy at VW told me the techs do reuse unless looks damaged and couldn’t believe it so just very critical bolts should be replaced like hub and areas with spinning movement.
You always make it look so easy... 😒 I replaced bushings once and it did not go smooth. I was young and didn't have a bushing press and wound up cutting a few old bushings out. Then pressing the new bushings in with a large C clamp. What a nightmare that was!
Designed to fail. They direction the bushing attaches, compared to the direction the arm moves when the suspension goes up or down...it strikes me that the stiffer the bushing, the sooner it fails. Odd they didn't have the rear pivot point allow for free motion in the same plane as the front. You'd think that would make for more supple and more controllable suspension movement - or maybe a heim joint for the more spirited driving enthusiast (although that may transmit a little too much NVH.)
Poly is definitely the worst material to put in a position like that too. I think there's a reason that VW stopped putting the solid rubber LCA bushings in the newer R's, as well. Optimally, a spherical bearing is what you need. The comfort of the drive will be sacrificed at that point, however, but it'd be top notch for handling.
Hello again brother sorry for bugging but what is that lift called that you are using, and can you recommend a budget friendly similar type of lift? Thank you for your videos they real help a lot and thank you for your time.
The sharpie trick or spray paint the ball joint nuts are my personal favorites. Alignment..pssh. "one time use" is the same as a little less torque. 😏. In all seriousness great content.
When are you gonna do the control arms on your Passat if you haven’t already? I think we’d all like to see you tackle the four link refresh job in a video like this. I’ve got a whole slew of bilstein/Lemförder suspensión parts for my Passat waiting on the day I build the courage to tackle the million ball joints hahahaha
I just did mine in my A4 and all in all the process wasn't too bad. Unless the previous owner/mechanic had never heard of antiseize like they clearly did in my case... both of my 4" pinch bolts put up a hell of a fight that ultimately ended with me buying two knuckles from a wrecker. The bolts had completely welded themselves in and no amount of penetrating lube, heat, impact or pressure could release them anymore
Im going to slowly swap out bushings on my 4wd which handles like a boat. For my make(terracan) a person recounted on a forum that the rear trailing arm when swapped made the most notable difference to their cars handling/stability (after doing everything else). So ive preordered the superpro trailarm kit... but now im asking myself whether it is all hype and i should just get rubber at a fraction of the price.🤔
The problem is, their are a bunch of celebrity channels on TH-cam. So, if someone subscribes to many of these celebs? Their notifications will overtake yours; and their videos will be clicked quicker because they are more familiar with, let's say, Will Smith. TH-cam needs to go back to its true essence.
Instead of loosening the subframe, loosen the lower transmission-mount and loosen the controlarm as shown (don't forget to loosen the drive axle nut too and pull it out of the knuckle). Pry on the transmissionside just far enough so you can pull the bolt out (passengerside). I haven't touched the subframebolts doing it this way. I replaced my controlarm bushings (old one was with channels) with the ones from the Audi S3. But the R32/Audi TT/Audi S3 all uses the same rear solid controlarm bushings and they will fit ALL mk4 cars.
how are you teacher??? I live in Caracas, Venezuela... and I have a Chinese car: chery orinoco, which is the name for Venezuela, its global name is chery a3 (if you type chery a3 in google, half of the references will be audi hahahahahahaha) I have always said that my car has many volkswagen-inspired parts: the radiator electric fan relay, the lights on button... and I say inspiration because they are not exactly the same to avoid problems (and, obviously, create a market) and today I discovered something more: the suspension arms of my car are based on yours... of course, those of my car instead of being cast, are made of rolled steel (and they cost $35 each with everything and the bushings), but it is that even the dimensions of the rear hub are clearly the same as those of my car. Of course, there are many differences, but I know that I can risk buying something of better quality for my car. It's that even the location of the components in the subframe... everything... MY CAR IS A DISGUISED VOLKSWAGEN HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. You can see my videos to laugh for a while... the video of the suspension will be coming soon. Greetings teacher from Caracas
HELP! Got an intake manifold fault for my runners a few days ago. I checked my engine bay today, and the lever arm came off 😂🤣. Should I drive it to my nearest VW or tow it??
I did poly bushings on my Mk4 Jetta. Both the captive nuts broke free and I ended up having to cut two holes in the subframe to get a wrench on the back of them. Also, nobody told me just how difficult it is to get the poly bushings into the control arm even with access to a press.
I'm trying to get my control arms replaced for my 04 Chevy aveo. But, it came from up north, and the 2 previous owners were female. Needless to say? The bolts are rusty, and had seized. So, the only option would be to use a torch. I want someone else to do it, because when I was younger, I was kind of a pyromaniac.
I don't know about you, but I could sit here and watch 20 + minutes of Charles explaining all the things you should do before removing the bolt at 4:10. "Hey guys, and also, make sure your impact battey has a good charge" "And Also, make sure you're not using a cheap socket. Don't wanna round the corners! "
Have you tried the Powerflex rose joint bushings in the rear of the front control arm? I replaced the bushings in my MK1 3.2 TT with factory rear bushings and the early model TT 30mm factory bushings and DEFCON spacers in the front. The factory rear bushings have already begun splitting with only 20k miles on them. I’m thinking about replacing them with the rose joint bushings in the rear and 30mm poly bushings, or the GT1 bushings from FTD motorsports. Hopefully that will last longer and stiffen up the handling more.
Hey Charles hope all is good. I have come across a problem with my lower control arm bushing on my golf r. I bought two new ones and tried doing the install myself but the driver side will not go it place on the rear. My question is. On the left and right control arms are the rear bushing the same cause my driver side seems to look longer then the other. Thank you for any support
I rebuilt my suspension. If you use polyurethan on your front sway bars on a mercedes, it will squeek like crazy. It doesn't matter if you grease it. DONT USE POLYURETHANE FOR SUSPENSION. My old Honda, I had same issue with polyurethane on my ST Sway bar.
yeah never had luck with cheaper poly bushings that are soft, strongly recomend superpro only brand that has lifetime warranty, they have an internal cross hatch that holds the grease in place never seen it on any other brand
Nice vídeo, I removed all the subframe to restore and broke one 13mm bolt of the Power steering rack, do You have any idea how to remove? And about the New bolts and nuts, which are the part codes please? Thanks
Great tips love watching your videos. Question for you, what’s the difference between euro golf and a regular golf? Also I have trouble code P2177. The car runs great. But at startup, the car sounds like it misfires, then it smooths out? Any help is appreciated.
So many TH-cam mechanics don't use copper grease/anti-seize on bolts. Even Eric at South Main Auto who works on cars in the rust belt and is arguably one of the best mechanics ever, hardly ever greases bolts when he's reinstalling them. Even if you don't live in an area where rust is an issue, I feel like at least mentioning that using anti-seize is recommended if your viewers do live in a cold/wet climate.
Using anti-seize can impact the torque of the bolt. I use it where recommended. Sometimes other places but for the most part I don’t use it unless it’s called for.
@@HumbleMechanic Hey Charles, thanks for taking the time to reply! I was aware that adding anti-seize to the fastener affects the torque specs. I usually dial the wrench back about 15% to account for that. I wish I didn't need to use it so much, but the reason I feel it's so important to use copper grease or something similar on exterior nuts and bolts is because I'm in the middle of restoring a very rusty 1994 Celica GT-Four and literally every nut and bolt on the underside has fought me, some of them even snapping off in the body and having to be drilled out. I live in the UK where we salt the roads in winter, so cars can get into that state over a few winters if they're not well maintained.
You should put the car down first (or simulate it by jacking the suspention up) before tightening the bolts on the bushings. Otherwise there will be hell lot of tension on the bushings once the car is down, and that can make them wear/crack really fast.
So you don’t have to have the car on it’s natural weight before torquing to torque specs? I’ve heard it can rip the bushing if you tighten all the way before on natural weight.
Hey, great channel. I love all things mk4. I wanted your opinion on something. I have 2 mk4s with poly bushings that are doing great. Stamped arms. I picked up some TT arms to swap in and am looking at poly for those. I watched the video here and the tare is no good. Do you think the sharp edge on the tt/32 arms is the cause here? The stamped arms have a smooth radius and the tt arms have that sharp edge. I am considering taking that edge off and roll with the same poly bushings I have on the stamped arms (new set, same bushing) Would be curious your thoughts here. Thanks
I love this mechanic so much. He's highly intelligent and communicates perfectly 😊
CHARLES! we TOLD YOU those urethane ones were gonna blow up your car! 🤣
I think you'll like the rubber ones, I put those in my daily 1.8t GTI 6 months ago and couldn't be happier. I used your previous video as a reference, thanks for all you do buddy.
Damn you make that job look so easy 😁 I really miss my two MK IV Golfs I had from new (1x Petrol GTI and a PD150 GTI). Those cars have a special place in my car heaven 👍🏻
Dude you are still my favorite mechanic by far I am so thankful for all the videos you have shared over the years and am happy to tell you I have completed my training and am on my way to becoming a certified automechanic like I said I would be the last time you messaged me back. Again thank you so much for all the knowledge and fun entertaining videos youre the best dude.
Every few months I spray all my bushing and c.v boots with wd 40 silicone spray to keep them in good working order,it also stops them from drying out and cracking in the cold months.
Thanks Charles. Perfect tutorial as always. What bums my son and I out is after we do our careful OCD work like this (I am a huge Hardware Replacer, no matter the cost or car) the Alignment guy goes 'Hammer Handed' on it.
Yeah that sucks! Maybe install old hardware, get it aligned, then you do new hardware? Doing one bolt at a time shouldn’t impact alignment.
Tell him not to go hammer ham on it!
Step 1: install entirely new control arms with bushings already in them Step 2: thank yourself
Yeah, but where's fun?
That’s an option for sure. One that I mentioned in the video ;).
@@tadeuszgladysz7387 Spending your weekend on your knees and getting your hands all bruised up trying to remove steel bits that really don't want to be removed is a strange idea of "fun".
Of course it's different if you've got a fully kitted out auto workshop, in which case you probably don't need to be watching this. Other than that you really want to just buy the complete control arms instead and save yourself the pain.
@@BigUriel I agree, a lot of these help you do it yourself channels fail to mention the importance of having a car lift and most of us don't have one which makes all these 'simple do it yourself' jobs extremely hard and time consuming.
This is a Lazy or just incompetent approach no thx.
You should retitle this suspension 101 part 1. You should also mention to inspect these bushings along with motor & trans mounts every other time you are under your car. Somethings, like bushings are very overlooked wear points. Great vid as usual.
Great video Charles.
I have a Passat B7 2012 workhorse ,,Here in the UK we have MOT ( ministry of Transport test )
I had an advisory of VERY LITTLE movement in the rear bearings you were doing,,Getting too old to do my own maintenance now But my local garage are REALLY GOOD ,, I’m now tempted as you make this look SO easy BRILLIANT
Explanation Very Clear and understandable.
Thank you,,,,But I’ve Decided cos YOU make it look SO easy I’m going to let them do it,,just in case. ,
Love the vids Keep up the Good Work
Best Wishes and STAY SAFE
Steve B. ( UK )
sweet. great job dude. I am new to your channel and love the content I have seen so far. I appreciate how you don't skip over the problems that you run into while doing this work. I also appreciate your honesty when you say what to do if you don't have the right tools or parts, because honestly that’s how most of us face these issues, without all of the professional equipment. Thanks for the help on this. I just got new wheels and haven't put them on yet so I decided to inspect the bushings and sure enough mine are toast. Way worse then yours, but mine are probably OEM and have never been replaced. I am the second owner and have about 160,000 miles, so it is way past due. I also will be replacing my strut mounts since those are also toast but I have already replaced those once. I'm gonna use heavy duty ones from ECS Tuning this time.
Thank you so much
Did the front control arms bushings on my 05 seat ibiza about a year ago went with powerflex road series. Checked them twice since i installed them no cracks whatsoever really happy with them. Did it on jackstands and had to buy the tool to press out the rear bushings, thankfully it wasnt expensive. A year later and along with endless mods (whiteline anti roll bars front and back with adjustable end links , bc coilovers, vibra technics engine, transmission and dogbone mounts, ultra racing chassi bracings and i couldnt be happier all i need yo complete my suspension is a steel belly pan to protect them and im done with suspension
NVH increase?
I just redid all of the rear bushings on my B6 A4 Quattro, it was one of the most frustrating job's I've ever done! That flat lower control arm looks like an absolute dream to press compared to the complex shapes of cast aluminum Audi decided to use in the back end
The B chassis cars are just silly with their bushings. I need to do the Passat soon
Lol “one time use only” good one
I have to replace my bushings tomorrow on my Jeep Liberty. Are the things I take off really a one time use only
Poly bushings typically last longer than traditional rubber ones. The hard part about selecting poly bushings is finding a company that has perfected the hardness/softness of the poly. Some aftermarket poly bushings are entirely too soft I've seen that quite a bit on aftermarket jeep bushings. Some are to stiff which is what Charles had an issue with. Too hard or stiff and the bushing can crack.
Thanks! I was just wondering about this. Had my control arms replaced under warranty but not the bushings.
That long wheel hanger stud certainly makes it easier to line up the wheel stud holes when re-fitting the wheel.
Wheel hanger? Genius! Thanks for introducing me to this simple gadget.
AWESOME
15:10 I appreciate that you addressed the reuse of the stretch, torque diff and intention to use new one later on alignment. I’ve had VW mechanics recently say regular bolts are fine for the dog bone mount but no advice on change in torque spec…I don’t think he understood tty.
They re use all tty bolts and don’t replace squat! Guys at VW parts told me they don’t replace unless visible damage.
Great movie because this is what I must to do to my MK4 GTI in the next days
Bafta sandule!!!
@@ArminVBThe1. Multumesc.
Beautiful work and giving confidence to do it myself, that's what Charles is all about 🎈❤️
And from the looks of things the subframe is support easy to remove too! Future plans! 😎
Ugh.. Always a rough job no matter how you cut it. That's one of the first things we'll have to do on our EK civic we just picked up.
Professional as always. Great job, mate.
Charles, Some questions: 1) when this bolt 4:00 was removed the first time (a year before this video was shot), how did you do it without breaking off the captive-nut on the subframe? What type of penetrating oil did you use, and do you possibly recommend using a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone for this purpose? Apparently others on youtube feel that mixture is more effective than store bought penetrating oils. What's your opinion? 2) When this same bolt was removed, is it better to use a hand wrench or impact wrench to slowly/carefully break the bolt free after it has soaked in penetrating oil? 3) Before reinstalling the bolt, should the captive-nut and/or bolt be coated in any way (locktite? anti-seize compound? other?) before reassembly? 4) Is a specific alignment of the subframe necessary when subframe bolts are removed? I realize the control arm/ball joint linkage will require an alignment adjustment, but I'm specifically interested in knowing if an alignment adjustment is necessary on the subframe when those mounting bolts are removed. Outstanding video as usual! Very helpful.
I have an '09 mk5 Rabbit and I just love your channel and content. Thanks for everything and keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Yuck water is the name of my new band. Lol awesome video as always👍
Hi sir iam regular following @humbalmacanic @manishcartechnology @howtoautomotive
Haha it’s what we yell out to my dog. He is old and like to drink out of water puddles in the yard. “Choey stop drinking that, it’s yuck water”
car lovers awesome thank you!
HumbleMechanic lol. Wish I had a shop dog. My dog passed about year ago.
@@HumbleMechanic hi Mr chris can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational motion in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
I'm a woman with a 2012 Passat. Love the car. I was at the dealer this morning and was told I needed to "replace the lower control arm bushing" right side-they want to replace the whole bracket. Sounds good, based upon your vids. Should I replace the left side at the same time or does it matter? Thanks. Love your videos.
I’d do both sides on that one!
Brother, the videos you create are freaking great!!!! Oh, need one more exclamation mark "!!!"
Went berserker over there, but the videos are worth it.!!!!! Boom! More exclamation marks.
I wish you picked your project car to be the same as my car, so the information will match and I can start wrenching.
Good stuff, my man. Keep doing the videos. I'll keep doing my part and click on the adverts even though I don't need what they are selling. 😂 🤣
Here's the thing about poly bushings, you don't want them in areas where movement is not rotating with the axis of the inner sleeve. They'll almost never fail if they're rotating on the sleeves axis but because they're so solid that flat rear bushing just splits.
Those solid rubber bushings are a nice upgrade for the Mk4 Jetta/Golf.
Yep. I have them in my mk3
Create sadness is the nicest way to say things went sideways 😂
I’m assuming you didn’t need to support the engine because it was still being held by the engine mounts up top and you didn’t fully remove the 6 bolts?
Any where else would of told you 1000 times to support it with a jack etc. Loved the video and it’s gonna help when I gotta do mine in the next couple of days
Nope. There only support the subframes provides is the dog bone mount.
how have you found the OEM bushings to be vs the polyurethane's?
All VW from that time use the same exact bushings. They even use the same exact control arm.. And it's known flaw that those bushings fail very frequently. One pothole and its done.. I've changed them few times... But only the back ones on the control arm, the front will never wear out, i use the original ones from 20 years ago and they work perfectly..
They don’t use the same control arm. The R32 is different
Hello Charles been on Holidays, glad I come back to a new video. Thanks
Do up the bolts until they break, take them out, start again!!! hehehehe!! Good job mate.
I had a Mk3 do the exact same thing. Just ate the rear lower until it fell out.
It was funny returning the old bush to the supplier XD
Hey Humble! Tks for this video!Let me ask you something. Shouldnt You torq the bushings only with the car wheels on the ground? My teacher aways said that all suspentions rubber parts adjust better when the weight is on it and that this procedure avoid bushings getting cracked by torsion when finally the car get to the ground. Once again, tks for all of your videos!
This is a good habit but always follow the repair manual
I like the idea of going OE -> Aftermarket - > OE, provides some real concrete testing of the value. AND maybe, just maybe, VW had it right in the first place.
Great job as usual Charles!
Older, single lady, that is so grateful for you and your videos. I have a 2012 Jetta SEL. I always review the repair before I let the shop work on my vehicle, so as to have a idea of the extent of the repair and parts required . I do take my vehicle to a reputable European auto shop. ( but, you can never be to informed). You mention the nuts are one time use, and replace the two bolts..when I look up the OEM bushing, there’s no reference to the nuts and bolts. Is that just common knowledge to a tech to replace those? Thank you again!
So when you look them up they say to replace. If they are (tty)Torque to yield stretch bolts they need replaced because they don’t have same clamping force they originally had with torque specs. Guy at VW told me the techs do reuse unless looks damaged and couldn’t believe it so just very critical bolts should be replaced like hub and areas with spinning movement.
Thanks. The rubber ones on my 08 Sebring are showing some stress, guess I'll put that on the list!
You always make it look so easy... 😒
I replaced bushings once and it did not go smooth. I was young and didn't have a bushing press and wound up cutting a few old bushings out. Then pressing the new bushings in with a large C clamp. What a nightmare that was!
Yeah even with the exact thing the pressing in/out can be a pain. Lot of people go with a loaded control arm. I totally get that
It seemed to me that you pushed out the old bushing on the larger flange side. Could be harder to extract?
I wondered what happened to Aaron from Gas Monkey Garage FastNLoud Show great to see him again on TH-cam awesome mechanic.
very good mechanic and great footage throughout :)
Thank you
Designed to fail. They direction the bushing attaches, compared to the direction the arm moves when the suspension goes up or down...it strikes me that the stiffer the bushing, the sooner it fails. Odd they didn't have the rear pivot point allow for free motion in the same plane as the front. You'd think that would make for more supple and more controllable suspension movement - or maybe a heim joint for the more spirited driving enthusiast (although that may transmit a little too much NVH.)
Poly is definitely the worst material to put in a position like that too. I think there's a reason that VW stopped putting the solid rubber LCA bushings in the newer R's, as well. Optimally, a spherical bearing is what you need. The comfort of the drive will be sacrificed at that point, however, but it'd be top notch for handling.
Will be doing this on forward left upper control arm of a 04 TrailBlazer.
Nice I did both upper and lower control arm on my wife's 02 trailblazer but I bought the whole control arms and other suspension and steering stuff
Hello again brother sorry for bugging but what is that lift called that you are using, and can you recommend a budget friendly similar type of lift? Thank you for your videos they real help a lot and thank you for your time.
I'm glad my subaru just bolts up from the bottom. Non of this lowing subframe, malleting it in stuff.
Humble! Another great upload, Could you do a upload of removing and instaling front axle wheel bearings the correct way!
That’s a great video topic
@@HumbleMechanic Think i should get a shout out for that 😎❤
The sharpie trick or spray paint the ball joint nuts are my personal favorites. Alignment..pssh. "one time use" is the same as a little less torque. 😏. In all seriousness great content.
Thanks. Yeah I try and replace where I should but that gets $$$$$$
When are you gonna do the control arms on your Passat if you haven’t already? I think we’d all like to see you tackle the four link refresh job in a video like this. I’ve got a whole slew of bilstein/Lemförder suspensión parts for my Passat waiting on the day I build the courage to tackle the million ball joints hahahaha
Soon hopefully
I just did mine in my A4 and all in all the process wasn't too bad. Unless the previous owner/mechanic had never heard of antiseize like they clearly did in my case... both of my 4" pinch bolts put up a hell of a fight that ultimately ended with me buying two knuckles from a wrecker. The bolts had completely welded themselves in and no amount of penetrating lube, heat, impact or pressure could release them anymore
Im going to slowly swap out bushings on my 4wd which handles like a boat.
For my make(terracan) a person recounted on a forum that the rear trailing arm when swapped made the most notable difference to their cars handling/stability (after doing everything else).
So ive preordered the superpro trailarm kit... but now im asking myself whether it is all hype and i should just get rubber at a fraction of the price.🤔
Who is getting their notifications? Seems like tons of you guys aren’t getting them.
Got mine that why i'm here early
💙💙💙
haven't hit the bell but I'm here
The problem is, their are a bunch of celebrity channels on TH-cam. So, if someone subscribes to many of these celebs? Their notifications will overtake yours; and their videos will be clicked quicker because they are more familiar with, let's say, Will Smith. TH-cam needs to go back to its true essence.
I always get mines...
do you have a video on how to remove the rear OEM bushing? I've seen people having to cut the metal part out because the old rubber came apart.
Love watching your videos , you doing a great job , great camera work , I replaced vacuum pump on Jetta with your help , thanks
Instead of loosening the subframe, loosen the lower transmission-mount and loosen the controlarm as shown (don't forget to loosen the drive axle nut too and pull it out of the knuckle). Pry on the transmissionside just far enough so you can pull the bolt out (passengerside). I haven't touched the subframebolts doing it this way. I replaced my controlarm bushings (old one was with channels) with the ones from the Audi S3. But the R32/Audi TT/Audi S3 all uses the same rear solid controlarm bushings and they will fit ALL mk4 cars.
Plenty of ways to get it done. I like this way. Done hundreds of these like that. Lol
how are you teacher??? I live in Caracas, Venezuela... and I have a Chinese car: chery orinoco, which is the name for Venezuela, its global name is chery a3 (if you type chery a3 in google, half of the references will be audi hahahahahahaha) I have always said that my car has many volkswagen-inspired parts: the radiator electric fan relay, the lights on button... and I say inspiration because they are not exactly the same to avoid problems (and, obviously, create a market) and today I discovered something more: the suspension arms of my car are based on yours... of course, those of my car instead of being cast, are made of rolled steel (and they cost $35 each with everything and the bushings), but it is that even the dimensions of the rear hub are clearly the same as those of my car. Of course, there are many differences, but I know that I can risk buying something of better quality for my car. It's that even the location of the components in the subframe... everything... MY CAR IS A DISGUISED VOLKSWAGEN HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. You can see my videos to laugh for a while... the video of the suspension will be coming soon. Greetings teacher from Caracas
Good job on the control arm bushing repair and replacement thank you
Great video, very thorough! What is the name of the lift that you use?
I have a question concerning the one time use ball joint nuts. When the alignment guy adjusts those aren't they then toast again?
Technically yes. :( I’ll probably reuse once or twice
That's why I'd keep the ball joint on the control arm when removing it - just split the ball joint from the hub. No need for realignment ;)
Great video. Very good and explained in detail. Do you always use OEM auto parts?
Not always. But a lot of the time OEM is great
Hi. Can you make a video explaining the coolant directions on the MK6 GTI
Another great video Charles
HELP! Got an intake manifold fault for my runners a few days ago. I checked my engine bay today, and the lever arm came off 😂🤣. Should I drive it to my nearest VW or tow it??
@@SkankHunt-fo5xv its a 2015 with 40k miles LMAO. Volkswagen is garbage
@@juanmedina4780 yes exactly
I did poly bushings on my Mk4 Jetta. Both the captive nuts broke free and I ended up having to cut two holes in the subframe to get a wrench on the back of them. Also, nobody told me just how difficult it is to get the poly bushings into the control arm even with access to a press.
Great vid as always. What lift is the r32 on?
Great video love a good R32, have a question how do u set the subframe as the holes are bigger then the bolts??? More 4 wheel alignment ???
I line them up with the marks they made on the subframe. Just like we lined up the nuts on the ctrl arm
greatful video. thank you very muc.
Bro! I'm thinking to swapped audi tt mk1 lower control arm on my vw golf vr6 24v.... do you think it's going to work?
I'm trying to get my control arms replaced for my 04 Chevy aveo. But, it came from up north, and the 2 previous owners were female. Needless to say? The bolts are rusty, and had seized. So, the only option would be to use a torch. I want someone else to do it, because when I was younger, I was kind of a pyromaniac.
I don't know about you, but I could sit here and watch 20 + minutes of Charles explaining all the things you should do before removing the bolt at 4:10.
"Hey guys, and also, make sure your impact battey has a good charge"
"And Also, make sure you're not using a cheap socket. Don't wanna round the corners! "
Have you tried the Powerflex rose joint bushings in the rear of the front control arm? I replaced the bushings in my MK1 3.2 TT with factory rear bushings and the early model TT 30mm factory bushings and DEFCON spacers in the front. The factory rear bushings have already begun splitting with only 20k miles on them.
I’m thinking about replacing them with the rose joint bushings in the rear and 30mm poly bushings, or the GT1 bushings from FTD motorsports. Hopefully that will last longer and stiffen up the handling more.
Nice video and thanks for sharing
Hey Charles hope all is good.
I have come across a problem with my lower control arm bushing on my golf r. I bought two new ones and tried doing the install myself but the driver side will not go it place on the rear.
My question is. On the left and right control arms are the rear bushing the same cause my driver side seems to look longer then the other. Thank you for any support
Awesome presentation
I rebuilt my suspension. If you use polyurethan on your front sway bars on a mercedes, it will squeek like crazy. It doesn't matter if you grease it. DONT USE POLYURETHANE FOR SUSPENSION. My old Honda, I had same issue with polyurethane on my ST Sway bar.
yeah never had luck with cheaper poly bushings that are soft, strongly recomend superpro only brand that has lifetime warranty, they have an internal cross hatch that holds the grease in place never seen it on any other brand
Instead of hammering the bolt through I like to thread them through instead. Less chance of damaging threads.
Ditto. Just give it a "brap" with the cordless impact.
Nice vídeo, I removed all the subframe to restore and broke one 13mm bolt of the Power steering rack, do You have any idea how to remove?
And about the New bolts and nuts, which are the part codes please? Thanks
By anychance did u do the vid of replacing the sub frame bushes
Charles, where can I get that awesome quick jack you're using??
Great tips love watching your videos. Question for you, what’s the difference
between euro golf and a regular golf? Also I have trouble code P2177. The car
runs great. But at startup, the car sounds like it misfires, then it smooths out?
Any help is appreciated.
Do you push the old bushing out to the flat side or reverse back the way it went in???
What about to an MK4 Vr6 24V do you thing is better just to release the top engine mount and raise the engine to remove that bolt??
What were the symptoms of the control arm bushing gone bad? Popping/clunk noises and indirect steering??
So many TH-cam mechanics don't use copper grease/anti-seize on bolts. Even Eric at South Main Auto who works on cars in the rust belt and is arguably one of the best mechanics ever, hardly ever greases bolts when he's reinstalling them. Even if you don't live in an area where rust is an issue, I feel like at least mentioning that using anti-seize is recommended if your viewers do live in a cold/wet climate.
Using anti-seize can impact the torque of the bolt. I use it where recommended. Sometimes other places but for the most part I don’t use it unless it’s called for.
@@HumbleMechanic Hey Charles, thanks for taking the time to reply! I was aware that adding anti-seize to the fastener affects the torque specs. I usually dial the wrench back about 15% to account for that. I wish I didn't need to use it so much, but the reason I feel it's so important to use copper grease or something similar on exterior nuts and bolts is because I'm in the middle of restoring a very rusty 1994 Celica GT-Four and literally every nut and bolt on the underside has fought me, some of them even snapping off in the body and having to be drilled out. I live in the UK where we salt the roads in winter, so cars can get into that state over a few winters if they're not well maintained.
You can also use a bench vise to remove/install the bushings
Yep. I think I mentioned that in the video
Yep, it's always important to get your bottom hole lined up properly!!!
You should put the car down first (or simulate it by jacking the suspention up) before tightening the bolts on the bushings. Otherwise there will be hell lot of tension on the bushings once the car is down, and that can make them wear/crack really fast.
You're righ,but only 50%! You must do that only on bushings with metal housing and not to all the bushings.
I was wondering the same thing and if that applies to these arm types. They don’t have a inner sleeve so that may be why it not necessary?? Idk
Love your video bro
those violet bushing costs almost 6 times more than original and it looks like they fail quite soon
The control arms should be torqued when under load
So you don’t have to have the car on it’s natural weight before torquing to torque specs? I’ve heard it can rip the bushing if you tighten all the way before on natural weight.
THANK YOU!
solid bushings
Hey, great channel. I love all things mk4. I wanted your opinion on something. I have 2 mk4s with poly bushings that are doing great. Stamped arms. I picked up some TT arms to swap in and am looking at poly for those. I watched the video here and the tare is no good. Do you think the sharp edge on the tt/32 arms is the cause here? The stamped arms have a smooth radius and the tt arms have that sharp edge. I am considering taking that edge off and roll with the same poly bushings I have on the stamped arms (new set, same bushing) Would be curious your thoughts here.
Thanks
What lift are you using? It looks good..
You torqued all screws in fee air? Also - ELSA says that bushing even if they are solid, have marking on them
Looks like Bilstein Sport Shocks.