Thanks for the great video. It really helped me in replacing my control arms. Just FYI if you have a manual MK4 Jetta/Golf/Beetle you don't have to lift up the transmission to get the bolt out of the hole on the passenger side. Also there is a an allen wrench or torx fitting on the end of both the outer tie rod end so you don't have to use a vice grip to keep it from spinning or an angle grinder which I used and then my wife showed me there was a torx fitting! lol There is one on the ball joint, but you can't get to it so it's useless.
Thank you so much! The best, informative TH-cam video on lower control arm replacement! Other TH-camrs stay away from that left (driver) side and only show the right side replacement. You saved me countless hours and money. Without your expertise and tip about that troublesome passenger side front lower control arm bolt, I would have removed the transmission fluid pan to get that bolt out, thereby costing me additional time and money! I found that removing the battery, battery tray and air box, like you suggested, made it a whole lot easier to get at those 3 transmission mount bolts. Once again, many thanks!🙏
Just did my struts and discovered the control arm bushings looked trashed, and Miraculously this popped up on my feed. TH-cam reading our minds.... Vid is A #1 !! about the best I have seen. explanations of each step and problems really make this a vid above the rest. Peace.
Thank you so MUCH for the explanation on the weld nut that spun, I used a 2 1/2" hole saw instead of an abrasive blade triangle. Then when I was done filled in with great stuff foam, let it harden, cut off smooth and spray-painted black. . .figured if access is ever needed, can just melt with a torch.
Excellent camera work...excellent verbal descriptions...excellent text overlays. I watch a lot of car repair videos and never seen any better quality than this.
Man I just replaced the front lower control arms on my 2006 Accord. It was my first time doing it on any car and I had very similar problems as you did on this car. I had to cut bolts with a grinder. It took me a whole day for each side. I had to find a nut for front 19mm bolt because the welded nut snapped off the frame. I had to run around to a few stores to find the nut. Nobody had the nut I needed except Ace Hardware. It almost turned into a nightmare. I dont blame you for leaving the subframe cut open. It makes a lot more sense to leave it open.
Simple jobs can easily turn into a nightmare if a captive nut breaks loose. I know what its like lol...now imagine potentially having than problem on almost every car that comes through the door.😒😭
Engineering at its finest right there. A best practice would probably be to weld a new nut in place and then weld a new plate over the top but with the condition and age of that vehicle I don’t think it will matter too much lol. Excellent job none the less.
I had to do the same thing when a captive nut broke loose inside the frame the last time I did a lower control arm. I cut the frame on three sides and peeled it back. I tack welded the nut inside and bent the flap back in place and welded it. Good job!
rather than messing about with the ball joint nut, it's simpler to just pop the driveshaft nut off and pull the driveshaft out of the way then you can access it all with plenty of room. To split to taper just get a club hammer on the housing and it pops free.
Very nice video. Very Helpful. I was doing the same thing on my 2004 Golf TDI. Just had to shake my head at the way this car is designed. No idea why the Jackasses put a place on top of the ball joint stud where you can insert an allan wrench to keep shaft from spinning when there is no room to get it in there. Now I'm of German descent, but working on my 2004 Golf TDI has me shaking my head at the Idiots who designed it. So many things on that car are very flimsy such as trunk opening mechanism, Battery Box, rear seat fold down latch and of course the engine oil dipstick.
I know this comment is old but hopefully you this will be sssn... Can you please describe in detail how you removed the dogbone or is there a video showing this? I'm getting ready to do my driver's side lower control arm on a 2000 Jetta and this sounds much easier than what was shown in the video. Any other tips for the drivers side lower control arm would be greatly appreciated also. Thanks so much!
I tried that and my pan tops out and still blocks the bolt. If this video method doesn't work, I saw someone loosened the dogbone, took out 2 front subframe bolts and loosen the 2 back ones. Lowering the subframe means that bolt gets lowered. Then, pull it out.
I watched this video after installing one control arm and then had difficulty taking off the other because of the spilling ball joint nut. I ended up cutting the nut with a Dremel. The three bolts on the old control arm were corroded and wouldn't turn. Good video. I also had to Dremel two 18 mm bolts by cutting them in half. Neither side bolts with the nut would turn. Rounded off.
Just did a suspension refresh with new springs, struts, control arms and tie rods. Thank goodness my golf doesn’t need the transmission pan lifted to get that bolt out.
Drives side. I was able to turn the the control arm at an angle & remove it without removing the bolt from the hole. Then slid new one in (over the tricky bolt), then swing the other side into place. Thanks for the video though. I might not have attempted it otherwise.
Like watching a magic show HAHA ok I'll put my engineer hat on and say the subframe must be re welded to cover the access opening with another piece of steel . The locknut is fine and with my DIY hat on I'd do that job exactly like you did :)
STEVE ROB REVIEWS I think I like your DIY hat better 😂. The engineers new that nut would fail and expect you buy and pay for labor on a new subframe $$$. Thanks for commenting. Always appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the info! Omg i was having nightmares that the nut was going to get loose, i prepped it with lots of penetrating oil and hits with a hamer. I ended ruining the threads of the sway bar link and had to retap them. Thanks god its over lmao.
@@themechanic6117 Interesting that a hammer was used on a socket placed on the bolt head. To be very precise, I assume you're talking about hitting the head of the socket, which does not put direct pressure on the head of the bolt. If that's the case, I assume the intent was to rattle the sub frame enough to hopefully loosen anything that might be seizing the bolt to the captive nut. Alternatively, did you install the socket on the head of the bolt and then hammer the side of the socket in some way? I don't believe this is what you were describing but want to be certain. Up to this point, I have had my car on the lift a couple times to do various other maintenance and took those opportunities to spray a lot of penetrating oil into a hole in the subframe where the captive nut is welded. I'll do the same thing one more time on the day I attempt to remove the bolt in a few more weeks. Currently I'm still gathering all of the parts I'll need to complete the job.
After putting the socket on the bolt you hit the socket on top where you would put the ratchet on. Honestly thats one bolt you probably dont want to hit with a hammer. The welds holding the captive nut are so weak it could cause them to crack. First keep spraying with penetrating fluid and use a wrench or ratchet to slowly turn the bolt. Sometimes going back n forth really helps instead of just trying to remove it. If it breaks free and starts to move with breaking off the captive nut then you're golden.
Great job and that sucks that nut broke off. Never had that issue on these but I can see with all that salt about why you did. I'm not sure what I'd do about that bolt, although my automotive OCD would probably kick in and I'd cover it back up. Awesome editing as always
Ideally it should get welded back together. Im not going to say it doesnt affect the structural integrity because im sure it does. Will it fall apart because of this? No
@@themechanic6117 I should have paid attention when you mentioned rubber mallet. It was BRUTAL without it. I had to use the old part to knock into the new one. 3 times trying until it actually fit.
Do your own research on torque numbers people. I own a manual for this car and I am pretty sure a lot of his torque specs are wrong. This is a great video, I would say always double check torque specs as a rule though. Anyone can get a torque spec wrong.
Had the same problem with the welded nut, but on torquing it on reassembly, not on loosening it, and on both sides. I thought I was home free when it came loose OK. Now I'll be cutting into the subframe. So there is no concern that cutting this access hole will cause a weakening of the subframe?
@@themechanic6117 Thanks for the reply. Welding isn't something I do, yet! But I should be able to cut a smaller hole as I don't have to get vise grips in there. Just enough to get in a nut and an open-end wrench.
Your editing kills me...in a good way. They say German engineering is the best but they messed up when they put that nut in there. No, leave it open. :)
Thank you, I'm always looking for new ideas to entertain the viewers ,I don't feel like it compromises the strength of the sub frame. If I get enough negative feedback I'll weld it back lol👍🍻,thanks for commenting.
@@themechanic6117 How is the car and subframe holding up now that 2 years have passed since the control arms were replaced and a significant portion of the subframe was removed? Has the removed portion of the subframe caused structural integrity issues for the car? Has it possibly caused the subframe to buckle in anyway? If the subframe has become weak and bend, have you also noticed an alignment issue with the car? I believe viewers of your channel would appreciate seeing a follow up video that discusses these concerns, along with a good look at what that section of the subframe looks like now.
As far as the opening that you had to cut is concerned, I would be tempted to weld a plate over it for structural strength. But since this video is from 2018, I don't suspect that you still have the car.
awesome video but u can use leverage with a pipe an the transmission mount removed push the engine forward an u can sneak the bolt me an buddy just did this dont have to take the engine mount off
I have to do this job and I'm scared to death about that nut in the sub frame. I think I'll let it soak in penetrating oil over night, heat it and bang it before I attempt to turn it out. I don't want to have to invest in a cutter and welder. Do you think it's better to take it off with an impact or by hand with a wrench?
Good luck. That's a good idea. If the nut it going to break then it doesn't matter which way you approach it but if I had to pick I'd say best chances are a impact
I'm interested in knowing the result of your effort. Did you heat the subframe and nut, and did that allow you to remove the bolt? Did the nut break off? What lessons did you learn during the job that can possibly help others do the job successfully?
@@themechanic6117 spray it with primer maybe depends might need cutting out more and fresh metal and replacing rotten bits but if its rotting away scrap it
@@themechanic6117 Sorry for my late reply and thank you for your answer to my original question. The reason the question was asked is because my car (2004 VW GTI 2.8L VR6, 6-speed manual) is missing that hose but the engine runs smoothly. Since I'm unsure how this hose and the airflow running through it are intended to work with the engine, I'm unsure of the long term impact of the hose being uninstalled. Can you tell me what problems might develop as a result of this hose being missing? Is the hose possibly only installed on the 1.8L 4-cylinder turbo version of this car but not the 2.8L 6-cylinder?
@@themechanic6117 I need to find the location of the air pump and fix this issue. So, to be absolutely clear, my car is the 2.8L VR6 normally aspirated engine. It does not have a turbo installed like the 1.8L 4-cylinder came with from the factory. Is this air pump on the normally aspirated VR6 engine, and if it is, I'm trying to picture exactly where it would be right in front of the engine. I'll lose sleep over this now. :)
Thanks for the great video. It really helped me in replacing my control arms. Just FYI if you have a manual MK4 Jetta/Golf/Beetle you don't have to lift up the transmission to get the bolt out of the hole on the passenger side. Also there is a an allen wrench or torx fitting on the end of both the outer tie rod end so you don't have to use a vice grip to keep it from spinning or an angle grinder which I used and then my wife showed me there was a torx fitting! lol There is one on the ball joint, but you can't get to it so it's useless.
Brilliant video. Made my life so much easier knowing about that captivated nut problem. Saved me hours of grief for sure!
You're welcome
Dealing with the problem parts makes this a SUPER GOOD vid.. Thanks
Glad the video helped you
Thank you so much! The best, informative TH-cam video on lower control arm replacement! Other TH-camrs stay away from that left (driver) side and only show the right side replacement. You saved me countless hours and money. Without your expertise and tip about that troublesome passenger side front lower control arm bolt, I would have removed the transmission fluid pan to get that bolt out, thereby costing me additional time and money! I found that removing the battery, battery tray and air box, like you suggested, made it a whole lot easier to get at those 3 transmission mount bolts. Once again, many thanks!🙏
Incredibly helpful video. This was my first time doing this and your video is the only reason I got it done. Thanks
You're welcome, glad it helped
Just did my struts and discovered the control arm bushings looked trashed, and Miraculously this popped up on my feed. TH-cam reading our minds.... Vid is A #1 !! about the best I have seen. explanations of each step and problems really make this a vid above the rest. Peace.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment . glad the video helped you
Thank you so MUCH for the explanation on the weld nut that spun, I used a 2 1/2" hole saw instead of an abrasive blade triangle. Then when I was done filled in with great stuff foam, let it harden, cut off smooth and spray-painted black. . .figured if access is ever needed, can just melt with a torch.
There's many way to do it. Glad you get the job done
You saved me soooooo much money, I couldn't get that one bold out, where the transmission pan is in way, thank you for this..
You're welcome
Excellent camera work...excellent verbal descriptions...excellent text overlays. I watch a lot of car repair videos and never seen any better quality than this.
Thank you, I'm glad my hard work paid off .Thanks for the comment 👍
I tried other people’s suggestions. This method worked perfectly for me. Don’t forget to get new bolts afterwards.
Man I just replaced the front lower control arms on my 2006 Accord. It was my first time doing it on any car and I had very similar problems as you did on this car. I had to cut bolts with a grinder. It took me a whole day for each side. I had to find a nut for front 19mm bolt because the welded nut snapped off the frame. I had to run around to a few stores to find the nut. Nobody had the nut I needed except Ace Hardware. It almost turned into a nightmare. I dont blame you for leaving the subframe cut open. It makes a lot more sense to leave it open.
Simple jobs can easily turn into a nightmare if a captive nut breaks loose. I know what its like lol...now imagine potentially having than problem on almost every car that comes through the door.😒😭
nic dude, it's super stressful and that was my own car. I couldn't imagine having stuff like that go wrong while working on someone else's car. OMG
Engineering at its finest right there. A best practice would probably be to weld a new nut in place and then weld a new plate over the top but with the condition and age of that vehicle I don’t think it will matter too much lol. Excellent job none the less.
If it were a newer car I would have welded it back.then again, if it were a newer car the nut probably wouldn't have broken off lol
I had to do the same thing when a captive nut broke loose inside the frame the last time I did a lower control arm. I cut the frame on three sides and peeled it back. I tack welded the nut inside and bent the flap back in place and welded it.
Good job!
+Bruce L. Sounds like you did a good job. Sometime you gotta do what you gotta do
Thanks. I'm always nervous whenever I see a captive nut inside a frame. No matter how careful you are, sometimes they just bust loose.
rather than messing about with the ball joint nut, it's simpler to just pop the driveshaft nut off and pull the driveshaft out of the way then you can access it all with plenty of room. To split to taper just get a club hammer on the housing and it pops free.
Very nice video. Very Helpful. I was doing the same thing on my 2004 Golf TDI. Just had to shake my head at the way this car is designed. No idea why the Jackasses put a place on top of the ball joint stud where you can insert an allan wrench to keep shaft from spinning when there is no room to get it in there. Now I'm of German descent, but working on my 2004 Golf TDI has me shaking my head at the Idiots who designed it. So many things on that car are very flimsy such as trunk opening mechanism, Battery Box, rear seat fold down latch and of course the engine oil dipstick.
Excellent video. Your explanation is superb. Better than most on here by far. Bonus problem solving too.
Thank you
Wonderful video. Loved your lucid explanations. More VW videos please.
Thank you👍
Son...Jus Bought 02 Jetta...And It NEEDS EVERYTHING...!!! You SureMake This Easy...Thanx
Yeah buying older cars usually requires plenty of new parts. Good luck 👍
Thanx...Something Tells Me This Will Be Ah SOLO Act...Jus WANT'S Me Too Do It All...!!!
Good luck! You can do it!👍
On the MK4 TDI, all I needed to do was remove the dogbone lower motor mount, swing motor a few inches and the left hand side bolt comes out.
Nice! What ever gets the job done
I know this comment is old but hopefully you this will be sssn... Can you please describe in detail how you removed the dogbone or is there a video showing this? I'm getting ready to do my driver's side lower control arm on a 2000 Jetta and this sounds much easier than what was shown in the video. Any other tips for the drivers side lower control arm would be greatly appreciated also. Thanks so much!
Look under the engine you'll see the dog bone mount. Unbolt it and you should be able to pull the engine forward a little to get the bolt out
I tried that and my pan tops out and still blocks the bolt. If this video method doesn't work, I saw someone loosened the dogbone, took out 2 front subframe bolts and loosen the 2 back ones. Lowering the subframe means that bolt gets lowered. Then, pull it out.
I watched this video after installing one control arm and then had difficulty taking off the other because of the spilling ball joint nut. I ended up cutting the nut with a Dremel. The three bolts on the old control arm were corroded and wouldn't turn. Good video. I also had to Dremel two 18 mm bolts by cutting them in half. Neither side bolts with the nut would turn. Rounded off.
Sounds like a nightmare!
@@themechanic6117 car has 224k on it. So...not too surprised. Put on ECS performance arms. Should ride a little better.
Just did a suspension refresh with new springs, struts, control arms and tie rods. Thank goodness my golf doesn’t need the transmission pan lifted to get that bolt out.
golfs dont have that problem?
@@kaden1292 i have a manual transmission and its smaller than an auto so i guess it doesnt have the same problem
Drives side. I was able to turn the the control arm at an angle & remove it without removing the bolt from the hole. Then slid new one in (over the tricky bolt), then swing the other side into place. Thanks for the video though. I might not have attempted it otherwise.
Thank you. Next time ill try that 👍
I'm working on it right now and cannot pull that baby out...prob gonna just do what the video suggests
Thanks for adding the part numbers bud.
You're welcome
Nice tip on raising the trans
Had this happen to both sides I used a hole saw, painted where I cut and after install, used spare vw body plugs
Like watching a magic show HAHA ok I'll put my engineer hat on and say the subframe must be re welded to cover the access opening with another piece of steel . The locknut is fine and with my DIY hat on I'd do that job exactly like you did :)
STEVE ROB REVIEWS I think I like your DIY hat better 😂. The engineers new that nut would fail and expect you buy and pay for labor on a new subframe $$$. Thanks for commenting. Always appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the info! Omg i was having nightmares that the nut was going to get loose, i prepped it with lots of penetrating oil and hits with a hamer. I ended ruining the threads of the sway bar link and had to retap them. Thanks god its over lmao.
Lol yeah it can go bad real fast
Where exactly did you focus the hammering? Was it the head of the bolt or the subframe, just under the nut?
Put a socket on the bolt (one you dont mind ruining ) hit the socket. Sometimes the shock from the hammering will help it break loose
@@themechanic6117 Interesting that a hammer was used on a socket placed on the bolt head. To be very precise, I assume you're talking about hitting the head of the socket, which does not put direct pressure on the head of the bolt. If that's the case, I assume the intent was to rattle the sub frame enough to hopefully loosen anything that might be seizing the bolt to the captive nut. Alternatively, did you install the socket on the head of the bolt and then hammer the side of the socket in some way? I don't believe this is what you were describing but want to be certain. Up to this point, I have had my car on the lift a couple times to do various other maintenance and took those opportunities to spray a lot of penetrating oil into a hole in the subframe where the captive nut is welded. I'll do the same thing one more time on the day I attempt to remove the bolt in a few more weeks. Currently I'm still gathering all of the parts I'll need to complete the job.
After putting the socket on the bolt you hit the socket on top where you would put the ratchet on. Honestly thats one bolt you probably dont want to hit with a hammer. The welds holding the captive nut are so weak it could cause them to crack. First keep spraying with penetrating fluid and use a wrench or ratchet to slowly turn the bolt. Sometimes going back n forth really helps instead of just trying to remove it. If it breaks free and starts to move with breaking off the captive nut then you're golden.
This was very helpful. Thanks for your excellent work.
Thanks for watching
Sweet video mate, spot on👌 I would of leaft it open allso for the next poor bloke,
Thank you 💪
Excellent work and video
Thank you
Torque spec in the Chilton Manuel for the bolt at 8:20(and the other big bolt on the control arm) is 90 ft/lbs
I feel your pain! =)
Thanks for making me look like the good guy... you can tell everyone the truth (that I was ROFLMAO)!
Thomas EXOVCDS it's ok I would laugh at someone else also... GOOD LUCK!! 😂😂
Great job and that sucks that nut broke off. Never had that issue on these but I can see with all that salt about why you did.
I'm not sure what I'd do about that bolt, although my automotive OCD would probably kick in and I'd cover it back up.
Awesome editing as always
Badgertronix thank you for your input. If I get beat up by the E web people I'll weld it back up lol .I appreciate the comment 👍
That is exactly my problem thank you so much for putting this video on here
You're welcome
Litterly tho bro life saver better then the other dude but I got an understanding from him yours out it in better perspective
If you cut that spot in the subframe, would it not reduce the structural rigidity of the subframe itself? Awesome video anyhow!
Ideally it should get welded back together. Im not going to say it doesnt affect the structural integrity because im sure it does. Will it fall apart because of this? No
Thank you so much. Just finished replacing mine.
Nice work 💪
@@themechanic6117 I should have paid attention when you mentioned rubber mallet. It was BRUTAL without it. I had to use the old part to knock into the new one. 3 times trying until it actually fit.
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Important thing is you got it done.
instant sub and like for the minor details thank you
Thank you 💪
Cutting the subframe :O Not gonna pass the inspection from where I am from in that shape!
No inspections here. If we had inspections i would have welded it back up
I'm going to be replacing my passenger side lower control arm next Saturday, but 1:56 is what i'm afraid of
Its definitely a problem
Do your own research on torque numbers people. I own a manual for this car and I am pretty sure a lot of his torque specs are wrong. This is a great video, I would say always double check torque specs as a rule though. Anyone can get a torque spec wrong.
I dont have a manual. I just found information online so of course it coukd be wrong. I tried.
Had the same problem with the welded nut, but on torquing it on reassembly, not on loosening it, and on both sides. I thought I was home free when it came loose OK. Now I'll be cutting into the subframe. So there is no concern that cutting this access hole will cause a weakening of the subframe?
If you have a welder just weld it back . If not try to cut a small hole just big enough to get the job done
@@themechanic6117 Thanks for the reply. Welding isn't something I do, yet! But I should be able to cut a smaller hole as I don't have to get vise grips in there. Just enough to get in a nut and an open-end wrench.
I thought my Dodge Caliber was a pain to get off. That rear bushing is the main problem with mine too
spartannn300 you should get it fixed, it can cause other problems. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Wow that bolt , also I love your videos I can tell u put in a lot of work
Hector Rocha thank you, glad you enjoyed it, I appreciate your comment.
great video, great teacher! thanx a bunch!
Thank you for watching. I appreciate it👍
Really very helpful
Thanks for watching
Great video dude, loved the editing!
Also, I think you made the right choice with leaving the subframe un-wielded
Ok, if it takes me more than 8 minutes you'll be hearing from my solicitor! :D
Results may vary 😂
top man good info and a sound job
Thank you. I appreciate the comment
Odds are that car want out Last the new suspension. Would cover up if tools available
Sweet video
Thank you
The bolt hitting the oil pan on the drivers side is only for automatic transmissions? Because the oil pan of the engine is on the passenger side
Nice work , I would have put a few tacks easy to cut after ..
What size bolt goes on Lower control arm ..nines 2002 vw Jetta
Your editing kills me...in a good way. They say German engineering is the best but they messed up when they put that nut in there. No, leave it open. :)
Thank you, I'm always looking for new ideas to entertain the viewers ,I don't feel like it compromises the strength of the sub frame. If I get enough negative feedback I'll weld it back lol👍🍻,thanks for commenting.
@@themechanic6117 How is the car and subframe holding up now that 2 years have passed since the control arms were replaced and a significant portion of the subframe was removed? Has the removed portion of the subframe caused structural integrity issues for the car? Has it possibly caused the subframe to buckle in anyway? If the subframe has become weak and bend, have you also noticed an alignment issue with the car? I believe viewers of your channel would appreciate seeing a follow up video that discusses these concerns, along with a good look at what that section of the subframe looks like now.
That car was here about a week ago , subframe looked perfectly fine. Owner said no issues at all 👍
All you had to do was straighten out the wheels. You have your sterring turned all the way right thats why the hub got in the way of the ball joint.
That makes sense. Sometimes you dont realise whats wrong even though its right in front of your face lol
As far as the opening that you had to cut is concerned, I would be tempted to weld a plate over it for structural strength. But since this video is from 2018, I don't suspect that you still have the car.
To get the control arm out wiggle side to side. Not up and down.
What a strange design, concealed nuts that require a window cut into the frame to put vice grips on a round nut.
Yeah that design isnt friendly in the rust belt. Becomes a real problem once those welds break.
Brother tyvm for this video you made my job so fucking easy so ty. Def a fan now!
awesome video but u can use leverage with a pipe an the transmission mount removed push the engine forward an u can sneak the bolt me an buddy just did this dont have to take the engine mount off
The next time I did this job I used that method and it definitely works better👍
Only get oem parts for vw suspension or you will just end up haven't you replace them a few months down the road
Most customers i work for dont want to pay for oem parts
I’ve done dozen control arms you do not need remove battery. Wow
Wait so you can torque without the car being under load?
If the bushing doesn't pivot vertically then you can torque it without being under load
I have to do this job and I'm scared to death about that nut in the sub frame. I think I'll let it soak in penetrating oil over night, heat it and bang it before I attempt to turn it out. I don't want to have to invest in a cutter and welder. Do you think it's better to take it off with an impact or by hand with a wrench?
Good luck. That's a good idea. If the nut it going to break then it doesn't matter which way you approach it but if I had to pick I'd say best chances are a impact
I'm interested in knowing the result of your effort. Did you heat the subframe and nut, and did that allow you to remove the bolt? Did the nut break off? What lessons did you learn during the job that can possibly help others do the job successfully?
I thought you don’t torque the control arms bolts until it’s under load. Am I right about that?
And that's what I did...
What size of screw does it use
If you mean bolts on arm bushing it is 18mm
Personally i would have welded the hole up to prevent anything been flicked up off the road into and thus making it rot
The whole car is rotting away anyway. Plus , if its welded shut how would you protect the inside bare metal once its welded shut?
@@themechanic6117 spray it with primer maybe depends might need cutting out more and fresh metal and replacing rotten bits but if its rotting away scrap it
At this point 13:21 in the video you have your hand on a hose that connects to the lower portion of the air box. What does the other end connect to?
Teres a air pump in front of the engine. The tube connects to that
@@themechanic6117 Sorry for my late reply and thank you for your answer to my original question. The reason the question was asked is because my car (2004 VW GTI 2.8L VR6, 6-speed manual) is missing that hose but the engine runs smoothly. Since I'm unsure how this hose and the airflow running through it are intended to work with the engine, I'm unsure of the long term impact of the hose being uninstalled. Can you tell me what problems might develop as a result of this hose being missing? Is the hose possibly only installed on the 1.8L 4-cylinder turbo version of this car but not the 2.8L 6-cylinder?
It uses that tube to get clean air, without the tube its allowed to suck in air that hasnt been filtered.
@@themechanic6117 I need to find the location of the air pump and fix this issue. So, to be absolutely clear, my car is the 2.8L VR6 normally aspirated engine. It does not have a turbo installed like the 1.8L 4-cylinder came with from the factory. Is this air pump on the normally aspirated VR6 engine, and if it is, I'm trying to picture exactly where it would be right in front of the engine. I'll lose sleep over this now. :)
Moog is ok?
I'm not a big fan of mood but they're ok. There's definitely worse brands
Bending the frame at 0:40 are we? :D lol
Frame is not going to bend by putting a jack stand under it...
@@themechanic6117 Why is it moving in the video in relation to the rest of the frame then? :D
Everything flexes...no damage is being caused. Thanks for watching
12:08 driver side control arm
Where is your shop?
Chicago, IL
@@themechanic6117 Thank you. I'm in Louisiana though, what's your shop called if you don't mind me asking?
Work from my garage
Just bent tf outta their dogbone mount bracket lol
How many hours does this job bill out at? If only an hour or two, I may not waste my time.
Im not sure but i think a hour or two sounds right. Without having the right tools id pay someone to do it lol
Hope you’re not loosening bolts with your torque wrench!
Why would I do that? I know better
You bolted the lower ball joint in crooked. You should have straighten your wheels out
Bro why you need to apologize for your breath you're outside in the cold