Used this method many times. Depending on the bushing size and how badly it's stuck, sometimes I just use a torch to burn out the old bushing then cut the sleeve and punch it out. Then use the threaded rod method as shown to press a new one in. Also I put bushings in a freezer over night to make it a little easier to press in.
Great advice, I've used the freezer trick on plenty of things that are an interference fit. Everything from bearing races to valve guides in a mini cylinder head!
Factory car jacks are great for harvesting the high tensile rods and parts for making this! Just need to cut it out and pretty much have everything you need. A bit of welding/fab/cobbling work of some scrap and you can really make a nice little tool for doing multiple bushes!
Just used the same method yesterday on a clio fork to replace 2 bushings. Very satisfying to DIY . bushings were 9.92€ and the easy way out was buy a new fork 42€. Needless to say i went with the bushing method and learned something more how to do.
This is how I did it the other day with the control arm still under the vehicle parcely still connected I like how you explain and the video was to the point alot of videos i have watched they explain it like you are 5year old and no nothing about cars and they skip over stuff and use fancy hi tec stuff and you end up watching a 30 min video with only 2 or 3 minutes that is even relavent to what you are doing so thank you
Glad you liked it. It's hard to know the level of mechanical aptitude of the viewers, so I just try to shoot down the middle of the road somewhere. Probably someone who has done some mechanical work before, but maybe just not that particular thing is what I aim for.
Great video. You should use barrel nuts as they are longer and have more threads, so that they are less likely to strip the threads under heavy loads. Oil your thread helps, too. Your pipe looked like it was deforming, so be sure to use a thick wall pipe.
The install tip was worth the price of admission alone. I am hoping to change my Panhard rod, trailing arm, drag link, Radius arm bushes and install a lokka over Easter so this info was just in time! 👍
Agreed! I need to do my control arm bushings. A single control arm is $130. Bushings are $10/each but a press is $300+ and a bushing tool kit is $90. This is about $0.05 in sweat equity! Brilliant! I shall pass this shade-tree-ery down to my own children.
It is amazing how controlled pressing can be; so much better and effective than trying to bash something in or out - great work! I love your install of the Panhard rod, very easy. Cheers Simon.
Trying to change the lower bushing on a pneumatic 90 pound breaker hammer. I think this is the idea I needed. Seems a lot safer than my idea involving a 5 ton chain hoist, a long carriage bolt with hook loop welded on the end, and 2 stout trees.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing Northwest corner of the united states, the trees are endowed well enough. However, what happens when the bushing breaks loose, and where do I stand while pulling the belay chain on the hoist?
Yes they pretty tuff land cruiser bought a ball joint kit on Amazon bent the thick vise part my fault now then I bought another kit from harbour freight around same price but harbours was even thicker and dud the job so when I got the bushing to move it would make a loud crack and move maybe 3/16 just kept spraying fluid on it and the vice now I'm getting better at it and faster just got to keep adjusting everything yo get it centered as much as u can its kind of fun takes about an hour or nr bushing got me taking my time
Mate you make it look so easy haha!...me just the other day i just finished putting the bushing in a 99 Toyota altezza rear bottom knuckle bushing thats the one the shock arm bolts to i cant just put the entire disk in the vice like you I tell yah it was a nightmare not having a proper hoist and just jackstands lighting was terrible and just me doing the job.. i was cursing and everything lol. Getting them out was a breeze but putting them back in I snapped 2 bolts because i couldn't see if it was aligned properly unless i really pulled the hub rods etc apart til it hanged down to view it as i did but didnt really want to and to getting better advantage...then the head of the shaft pop out that comes out of the diff head...keep in mind ive never done this sort of stuff before so after getting in the last bushing i ripped the boot and the nightmare continues the frustration things in the way etc!...oh my goodness its all done now it took me a week yes so i know what its like when things dont go right...but youtube is great to have
Thanks for the idea! I need to do the rear lower control arm on my Toyota Townace Van. I'm a bit scared of the spring as it seats on the lower arm. Hoping I can slowly jack the arm up into position without the spring taking my face off
I believe it would be better to grease the socket, to avoid the issue getting it out. In addition greasing the new bushing is also recommended. (Silicon grease which doesn't impact the rubber)
I was waiting till the end for the track bar trick, thinking the whole time when I worked for Jeep I always had someone jump in and crank the wheel back and forth until It lined up lol. That 100% works, I've don't it 200 times probably. Jeep thinks it's a good idea to put ball joints on 1 end of things that were never supposed to have them. As far as the press method always worked for me. A ball joint press C-clamp kit is your friend. It seems to come in super handy for pressing things like those.
Dude... why don't you make this easy on yourself, slip a piece of cut pipe over the handle of your wrench and comfortably take it off. You don't have to make it harder than it is. (Leverage)
This method is great. I have been using it to remove bushings while the control arm is still attached on the other end because they are so maneuverable. Is this any danger in putting this much pressure on these materials though? I'm guessing/hoping no because the pressure isn't contant and only goes one direction but just wanted to make sure. Also could one use the new bushing to push out the old bushing and all at once seat the new one as well? I believe it will work but was wondering if this would damage the new bushing?
Thanks mate. The blooper reel is only a short selection that I have to choose from! We're all human, and sometimes I'm considerably more human than most! :)
It depends on the design of the bushing, on some, the inner is slightly wider than the outer, so you couldn't do it with one like that, though if both the inner and outer are the same length, that should work fine!
I have just replaced my front panhard arm with an adjustable one and will be replacing the rear one in the next few days on my 80 series, luckily I didn't replace any of the bushes. This is a great way of doing the bushes and I wish I had of known this when I did the rear caster arm bushes last month. Great stuff keep it up. I have a question for you please which I am having problems with getting a correct answer to.. My 80 series has a 3" lift kit in it and I'm wanting to know if I need to get and fit a brake proportioning valve extension plate? Can you help me with this information please and maybe supply a video if you have one. Thanks Tim.
At 3" of lift the proportioning valve needs to go up 3" otherwise the braking will think there is reduced load on the back wheels, this is especially bad for non-abs cars. A simple extension bracket will fix this. Don't forget to check your diff brake line lengths so you're not hanging off the brake lines at full droop. Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDingThanks, My rear brake line comes to the centre of the diff so I'm guessing that will be ok but I will check thanks. So do I need to adjust the BPV at all or just remove and fit an extension plate? do you have a video of this at all ??
There are custom made tools on ebay for about £20 for my the axle bushes of my Ford Fiesta, by the time I've bought nuts and bolts I'd be as well with that. But, Many thanks.
If there is a cheap dedicated tool to do the job, that's usually easier. Though sometimes there isn't, and you might not have access to a press, that's when this method might come in handy.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I'll either use a hole saw or drill to first remove the old part. Then clean and sand the carrier before using the tool to insert the new part. Less risk of snapping the pulling bolt I think. I would be saving a £100 on garage labour. I appreciate the need for resourceness that you express, that and saving money! Many thanks for taking the trouble to post this guide!
Where do u get these bolts? The ones from homedepot and lowes even the yellow grade 8 and stainless grade 12, the rivets bend, the nut gets stuck and cant get it off one bolt snapped in half!!
My cars (nissan primera p12) friont control arm has bushes that mount on a protrusion or "pin" on the arm. You cannot use a bolt/nut (removal or reinstall) as that pin blocks the entry of one end off. Trying to figure out how best to proceed.
The idea was to demonstrate a bush change without the tooling you might have at home, including a vice. While I know the sway bar was held in a vice during the demonstration, it could have just as easily been ratchet strapped to a tree stump.
It's the little things... before adopting the steering wheel technique, I spent a good hour stuffing around with ratchet straps. Now I kick myself for doing it any other way!
Thanks I'll check that tonight! You'll still need something on the other side as the centre of the bush protrudes out further than the edge by a few millimeters, a socket of the right diameter would do the job.
The press is a better solution no doubt. My local suspension guy shut shop and I was having trouble getting into a local mechanics. I probably lucked out having a peice of pipe about the right diameter, though a deep socket would be able to do the same job. It's all about self sufficiency and not having to rely on others especially if you're remote. The only thing I needed to get was the high tensile allthread after snapping the hardware grade m12 allthread I had in the scrap pile.
Used this method many times. Depending on the bushing size and how badly it's stuck, sometimes I just use a torch to burn out the old bushing then cut the sleeve and punch it out. Then use the threaded rod method as shown to press a new one in. Also I put bushings in a freezer over night to make it a little easier to press in.
Great advice, I've used the freezer trick on plenty of things that are an interference fit. Everything from bearing races to valve guides in a mini cylinder head!
Factory car jacks are great for harvesting the high tensile rods and parts for making this! Just need to cut it out and pretty much have everything you need. A bit of welding/fab/cobbling work of some scrap and you can really make a nice little tool for doing multiple bushes!
Never thought of using jacks thanks!
Finally someone who used brain not a brute force by cutting with hacksaws slamming with hammers and so on, great work mate
If there's an easier way, I'll find it! 🙂
That was cool I used your method to replace my lower control arm bushings.Thank you my friend!
Glad to help!
Just used the same method yesterday on a clio fork to replace 2 bushings. Very satisfying to DIY . bushings were 9.92€ and the easy way out was buy a new fork 42€. Needless to say i went with the bushing method and learned something more how to do.
Glad to help, and save you some money!
This is how I did it the other day with the control arm still under the vehicle parcely still connected I like how you explain and the video was to the point alot of videos i have watched they explain it like you are 5year old and no nothing about cars and they skip over stuff and use fancy hi tec stuff and you end up watching a 30 min video with only 2 or 3 minutes that is even relavent to what you are doing so thank you
Glad you liked it.
It's hard to know the level of mechanical aptitude of the viewers, so I just try to shoot down the middle of the road somewhere.
Probably someone who has done some mechanical work before, but maybe just not that particular thing is what I aim for.
Good job. I can actually understand what you're saying and see you are using similar tools we have up here in the USA....
Cheers!
Great video. You should use barrel nuts as they are longer and have more threads, so that they are less likely to strip the threads under heavy loads. Oil your thread helps, too. Your pipe looked like it was deforming, so be sure to use a thick wall pipe.
A thicker wall pipe definitely would have been better, though I had that pipe kicking around. Great tip about barrel nuts.
The install tip was worth the price of admission alone. I am hoping to change my Panhard rod, trailing arm, drag link, Radius arm bushes and install a lokka over Easter so this info was just in time! 👍
That'll definelty keep you busy over the Easter and ready to hit the tracks as soon as we can get out there again!
Great instructional video. You're correct: you never said it would be easy. Ideal for Home Garage mechanics like me. Thanks.
Glad it helped
Agreed! I need to do my control arm bushings. A single control arm is $130. Bushings are $10/each but a press is $300+ and a bushing tool kit is $90. This is about $0.05 in sweat equity! Brilliant! I shall pass this shade-tree-ery down to my own children.
It looks like a daunting task for me but I will give it a try this weekend...I love thw idea.
It's not as hard as it looks, just remember to use hi tensile all thread and you'll be fine.
The Moving the steering wheel trick was fab
It's not a bad one, as they say “If the Mountain won't go to Mohammed, then Mohammed must come to the Mountain”
It is amazing how controlled pressing can be; so much better and effective than trying to bash something in or out - great work! I love your install of the Panhard rod, very easy. Cheers Simon.
Don't get me wrong, I've bashed lots of things into submission over the years!
Though, you're right, pressing is a lot more controlled.
For an St90 or like moto swingarm and wheel bushings a 22mm hole saw worked for me,got everything out even that stubborn metal sleeve
Fantastic, great to hear it helped you out!
Trying to change the lower bushing on a pneumatic 90 pound breaker hammer. I think this is the idea I needed. Seems a lot safer than my idea involving a 5 ton chain hoist, a long carriage bolt with hook loop welded on the end, and 2 stout trees.
Depends on how stout the trees are! :)
Lock your Hubs 4WDing
Northwest corner of the united states, the trees are endowed well enough. However, what happens when the bushing breaks loose, and where do I stand while pulling the belay chain on the hoist?
@@beerggls I well say perpendicular to the load! As far away as possible.....
Yes they pretty tuff land cruiser bought a ball joint kit on Amazon bent the thick vise part my fault now then I bought another kit from harbour freight around same price but harbours was even thicker and dud the job so when I got the bushing to move it would make a loud crack and move maybe 3/16 just kept spraying fluid on it and the vice now I'm getting better at it and faster just got to keep adjusting everything yo get it centered as much as u can its kind of fun takes about an hour or nr bushing got me taking my time
Sounds like you got there in the end, that's the main thing!
Brilliant However in situ this is a pain.I remember doing this on my Ford Cortina for the void bushes. What a paint that was.
Depends on where it is situated, but you're probably right!
The "trick" to urethane bushings is to lube them up really well with teflon/ptfe. I use a ball/U joint press for most bushings. Works a treat!
Never thought of using a ball joint press, I'll have to give it a go.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I guess in a pinch you could use a big C clamp too. Sometimes silicone spray can quiet a urethane bushing after install👍👍
Nice, will definitely be making a bush fix for this. I always wondered how to align them up again. Thanks...
Glad to help!
Mate you make it look so easy haha!...me just the other day i just finished putting the bushing in a 99 Toyota altezza rear bottom knuckle bushing thats the one the shock arm bolts to i cant just put the entire disk in the vice like you I tell yah it was a nightmare not having a proper hoist and just jackstands lighting was terrible and just me doing the job.. i was cursing and everything lol. Getting them out was a breeze but putting them back in I snapped 2 bolts because i couldn't see if it was aligned properly unless i really pulled the hub rods etc apart til it hanged down to view it as i did but didnt really want to and to getting better advantage...then the head of the shaft pop out that comes out of the diff head...keep in mind ive never done this sort of stuff before so after getting in the last bushing i ripped the boot and the nightmare continues the frustration things in the way etc!...oh my goodness its all done now it took me a week yes so i know what its like when things dont go right...but youtube is great to have
Mate I loved watching this as I’ve got to do my bush in my panhard bar
Hope it helped!
I've got this little job to look forward to, great fun video with a tool kit I can afford to own, I think I will be giving your method a go : )
Glad to help mate!
I was told if near a freezer but the bushing in the freezer as cold make it smaller and it slides in easier same as bearings
That should work as well.
That,s an impressive length of threaded bar, really strong, good technique though.
You definitely have to use high tensile strength all thread.
Thanks for the idea! I need to do the rear lower control arm on my Toyota Townace Van. I'm a bit scared of the spring as it seats on the lower arm. Hoping I can slowly jack the arm up into position without the spring taking my face off
A spring compressor will be your best friend there
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks for the info. I'll jump on ebay now
I made a steed box out of heavy box section
Just big enough to get a hydraulic car jack and suspension arms in
Basically a home made press but smaller
Nice!
I believe it would be better to grease the socket, to avoid the issue getting it out. In addition greasing the new bushing is also recommended. (Silicon grease which doesn't impact the rubber)
Great suggestion!
I was waiting till the end for the track bar trick, thinking the whole time when I worked for Jeep I always had someone jump in and crank the wheel back and forth until It lined up lol. That 100% works, I've don't it 200 times probably. Jeep thinks it's a good idea to put ball joints on 1 end of things that were never supposed to have them. As far as the press method always worked for me. A ball joint press C-clamp kit is your friend. It seems to come in super handy for pressing things like those.
I must try a C clamp kit, thanks for the tip!
Also using a long breaker bar with the ball joint press locked down on a bench vise
You can never have too much leverage! Until something breaks ....
Appreciate the video, heaps helpful
What grade high tensile bolt did you use?
Grade 8 from memory.
Dude... why don't you make this easy on yourself, slip a piece of cut pipe over the handle of your wrench and comfortably take it off. You don't have to make it harder than it is. (Leverage)
I'm all for a little mechanical advantage!
part number please, for a 2004 kia optima2.4l , I ordered a pair from ebay and they’re bigger than originals
thankyou teacher...old skoll style..respect
Cheers!
Works well at home, but not many would carry the gear (pipe of the right size, plates etc) you showed in the bush
Everything bar the high tensile threaded rod was just scrap I found about.
Loved your video. Could I use the same method to replace the front lower control arm bushings on my Land Cruiser FJ80?
The Radius Arm? Yep, no worries, get the biggest high tensile allthread that'll fit through the bolt hole and you should be fine.
Good effort! - Old git, UK
Thanks mate I
This method is great. I have been using it to remove bushings while the control arm is still attached on the other end because they are so maneuverable. Is this any danger in putting this much pressure on these materials though? I'm guessing/hoping no because the pressure isn't contant and only goes one direction but just wanted to make sure. Also could one use the new bushing to push out the old bushing and all at once seat the new one as well? I believe it will work but was wondering if this would damage the new bushing?
Simply ingenious mate!
Cheers!
Thanks so much from Canada
No worries, glad you enjoyed it!
Great stuff, really good job and very helpful
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Does every 80 series owner have a bahco set in the back haha. love the videos mate helped me heaps !
Matt from LYH drives an 80 and spins Bahco spanners, the daughter also has an 80 and uses Bahco as well, so I guess the answer is yes!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I always have a Bacho set in my 80 aswel just makes me laugh how we all have the same tools. Cheers mate love the videos.
Good idea. However changing many bushings on all suspension on both sides could last whole day.If you have time and vice you can have fun.
It's more of a last resort kinda thing.
The end cracked me up! "Can you turn the steering wheel please?"
"Voila!" LOL - Frenchie from Down Under!!!
Haha
I would of used a scaffold pole on the wrench for extra length/leverage, still a great idea tho
You can never have enough leverage!
Super video, thanks a million for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
Great idea but you should have used a metal hammer to knock out your socket . cheers
I just grabbed whatever was handy.
Nice tips. Entertaining bloopers at the end.
Thanks mate. The blooper reel is only a short selection that I have to choose from! We're all human, and sometimes I'm considerably more human than most! :)
@@LockyourHubs4WDing "Considerably more human than most" - classic! Haven't heard it put like that.
Rather than use a socket use the the new bushing. As the bushing it pushed in it will force the old one out the other side
It depends on the design of the bushing, on some, the inner is slightly wider than the outer, so you couldn't do it with one like that, though if both the inner and outer are the same length, that should work fine!
Instead off the socked to push the old one out, use the new bushing to press the old one out while pushing in the new one!
Unfortunately it doesn't work with these bushes as the centre sits proud of the outer
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I understans but what if you put a big watcher behind the new bushing?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing actually you have the big watcher when you removed the socked to press the bushing in
Legend mate!
Not sure about that, but thanks!
Nice video 👍
Thanks!
I have just replaced my front panhard arm with an adjustable one and will be replacing the rear one in the next few days on my 80 series, luckily I didn't replace any of the bushes. This is a great way of doing the bushes and I wish I had of known this when I did the rear caster arm bushes last month. Great stuff keep it up. I have a question for you please which I am having problems with getting a correct answer to.. My 80 series has a 3" lift kit in it and I'm wanting to know if I need to get and fit a brake proportioning valve extension plate? Can you help me with this information please and maybe supply a video if you have one. Thanks Tim.
At 3" of lift the proportioning valve needs to go up 3" otherwise the braking will think there is reduced load on the back wheels, this is especially bad for non-abs cars.
A simple extension bracket will fix this.
Don't forget to check your diff brake line lengths so you're not hanging off the brake lines at full droop.
Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDingThanks, My rear brake line comes to the centre of the diff so I'm guessing that will be ok but I will check thanks. So do I need to adjust the BPV at all or just remove and fit an extension plate? do you have a video of this at all ??
Video would be helpful if retailers actually sold a bolt long enough that is high tensile
High tensile all thread is your saviour!
There are custom made tools on ebay for about £20 for my the axle bushes of my Ford Fiesta, by the time I've bought nuts and bolts I'd be as well with that. But, Many thanks.
If there is a cheap dedicated tool to do the job, that's usually easier.
Though sometimes there isn't, and you might not have access to a press, that's when this method might come in handy.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I'll either use a hole saw or drill to first remove the old part. Then clean and sand the carrier before using the tool to insert the new part. Less risk of snapping the pulling bolt I think. I would be saving a £100 on garage labour. I appreciate the need for resourceness that you express, that and saving money! Many thanks for taking the trouble to post this guide!
Where do u get these bolts? The ones from homedepot and lowes even the yellow grade 8 and stainless grade 12, the rivets bend, the nut gets stuck and cant get it off one bolt snapped in half!!
Excellent video
Thanks mate!
Your a legend nice video
Cheers!
You could of used an extension from your socket set to fit the socket to belt it out
It's a heavy interference fit, you're going to need a mighty heavy hammer!
Thanks for the idea
You're welcome!
Pure Genius
Thanks!
A piece of additional pipe works well!
Certainly does!
Not anywhere close to an ideal situation, but sometimes you gotta do what you have to do. :)
Exactly!
A very useful hack, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
i think i will stick with the press. Its borrowed free at auto parts stores in America. This would work in a pinch though.
Yes this method definitely wouldn't be my first preference!
If they ever make another Popeye movie, you're a lock! Your forearms are bigger than my legs! lol!
And thanks for the awesome tip!
Lol, I love spinach as well!
Man, you kinda saved me some money and some time...
Great to hear, thanks mate!
You should have just pulled out a pipe or breaker bar ya hard man hahaha nice work 💪
Hahaha, thanks mate!
Do you reckon we can push in and out the front leading arm bush for the 80 series ?
Can't see why not.
Jerry rigged?
Is your name Jerry?
Good tip and video.
Happy Motoring.
🤣🤣🤣
bravo and thanks for helping
Cheers!
My cars (nissan primera p12) friont control arm has bushes that mount on a protrusion or "pin" on the arm. You cannot use a bolt/nut (removal or reinstall) as that pin blocks the entry of one end off. Trying to figure out how best to proceed.
thanks for the idea!!!!
Glad to help!
Thank you!!!!!!🎉 You are ⭐🙌🏻🙌🏻
You are so welcome!
Where do you buy them bolts?
Just at a local bolt supplier.
Thanks a mil
You're welcome!
Why not use your vise as the press, instead of it holding the arm?
The idea was to demonstrate a bush change without the tooling you might have at home, including a vice. While I know the sway bar was held in a vice during the demonstration, it could have just as easily been ratchet strapped to a tree stump.
You good man
Thanks!
what make model car car is this out of ??
LandCruiser 80 series.
Thanx
Glad you liked it!
Fun they said. Easy they said. I'd take storming the beachhead in Normandy over rebuilding the suspension on this POS Acura.
Hahaha!
Very nice video, but what kinda English is that? I couldnt catch half of what you said :)
Oztralian!
Fuck shit why didn’t I think of turning the wheel. Been driving on a cross thread for ages
It's the little things... before adopting the steering wheel technique, I spent a good hour stuffing around with ratchet straps. Now I kick myself for doing it any other way!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing yep I did the exact same thing
When all else fails, use a bigger hammer
Exactly!
If it can chew up polyurethane, then the rubber won't stand a chance.
Great point!
would've just been simpler to use the bench press and the sockets
The point was not to use a press! 😁
@@LockyourHubs4WDing ahh
my apologies sir
If you don't have one this us handy
just add a bit of heat... butane
That would help!
tie rod nut is lose... good one you would not need the tube to reinstall just the plates
Thanks I'll check that tonight!
You'll still need something on the other side as the centre of the bush protrudes out further than the edge by a few millimeters, a socket of the right diameter would do the job.
grease on the threads
Great idea, definitely would have helped.
Hahaha idea good....stuck is lol...
Sure was!
Are you tired?😄😂
I was, though I'm fine now! 😁
10 minutes, could easily make it 2.
Ok, you do you! 😁
Just get it done in a lathe
You could! Even better yet a press, but that's not the point of this, it's to get it done with the minimum of tools.
A lathe? wtf?😂
Grease that bolt
I would have if I had any there! :)
I doubt many would have a piece of tube that exact size laying around the back yard. Spend $200 and get yourself a press.
The press is a better solution no doubt. My local suspension guy shut shop and I was having trouble getting into a local mechanics.
I probably lucked out having a peice of pipe about the right diameter, though a deep socket would be able to do the same job. It's all about self sufficiency and not having to rely on others especially if you're remote. The only thing I needed to get was the high tensile allthread after snapping the hardware grade m12 allthread I had in the scrap pile.
There's always one armchair expert with money to throw at anything . Not that way in the real world mate .
أوصلت الفكرة ولكن بغباء
Can't understand his words. 😕
Mine?
Mechanic long beard and mustache, looks dirty
good stuff, thanks
Cheers!
This simple video kick your ass
Cheers!
I believe that i will destroy all my ratchets before even taking out one bush on my defender, like that.
Hahaha!