3 years ago I replaced every single bushing, suspension & steering, on my daily driver Infiniti Qx4. I coated everything with white silicone brake grease. Even after occasional off-roading, I have not heard one squeak. 😉
I had ST sway bars & the polurethane bushings in the front and rear squeeked. I greased them, it stopped for 1/2 a day, then came back. Same on a Mercedes sway bar for the front. When I went back to OEM it was quiet. Everyone looked at me in the parking lot when i went over a bump. Unless its a race car & u need performance at any cost, get the polyurethane sway bar bushings. I shoulda tried teflon tape like in the video.
I am glad you added the grade 8 bolt information as some kits do not include them. Plus, good grease info. I see were folks are complaining of a squeak noise frequently! A good PTFE silicone grease is supplied and recommended but other brands work well. Yes, this means you must read the instructions, warnings (Do not eat or squirt in eye balls) but, hey, someone this minute is buying a gallon of milk that expires tomorrow! Yum on my cereal, with a splash in my coffee. Dag Nabbit, just at the store and forgot the TP!
Especially with bushings that are a little loose because of improper manufacturing, this kind of system will help out a lot. I love attention to detail such as this.
should i do this also with rear subframe mounting bushings. Going with strongflex which is little bit cheaper so it might have more looser tolerances. My bushings are shot on my e46 330d on the subframe and rtab going with poly and replacing almost all bushings because i have to drop the whole rear subframe
@@j0lel666I'm sure you already replaced the subframe bushings, but might as well wrap with Teflon. A lot easier at install vs finding a way to get underneath the car to spray with PTFE or another lubricant, since the Subframe does have some movement
Great tip. I used Teflon before to make things slippery but I didn't think about using it on bushes. This is a good video to watch just before buying and installing poly bushes.
I'm glad I found this video, I'm trying to do a small lift on my Jeep Cherokee and I had learned that Poly bushings require a lot of maintenance and they're not as flexible but I figured using them in the leaf springs wouldn't be a bad idea, besides the maintenance to keep them from squeaking, I hope this video will work out for me.
This is a very useful tip. I sometimes get a squeak from the poly bushes on the front GTA ARB but to be fair once regreased with copper grease they quieten down again. Will definitely apply the ptfe tape next time it's taken apart.
Hi Rick, there are many brands of Polyurethane bushes, Polybush is a brand, you currently have Powerflex-branded polyurethane bushes, so using the word Polybush is a little bit misleading. BUT... Your Polyurethane bushes squeak because the grease / lubricant attracts dirt, this creates a grinding paste which wears away the bush - We manufacture our bushes to NOT use grease or lubricant and for the bush material the move, rather than the tube move within the bush. Powerflex have the tube move within the bushing, means you have a bearing (technically) and a bearing with no lubricant isn't ideal. So, although using PTFE tape on the outside of the bushing/tube will absolutely work to take up the slack in the bush in the housing or the tube in the bush. It won't necessarily solve the problem long-term as the same thing can happen again, grease attracts dirt, dirt and rotation creates wear and so on. Also if your bushings do indeed have a stainless tube, you should really protect against galvanic corrosion, between the stainless tube and the non-stainless bolt. Cheers & Top video.
@@מדינט We make lots of bushes for modern cars, in fact our best-selling bush is for a Ford Fiesta - But you're right, we don't really make anything for BMW. We don't really have an outlet for them hence why we don't.
I like the idea and the demonstration. I have superpro bushes on my discovery and they don’t squeak but if/when they do I will use this technique. Thank you.
for anyone thinking of going poly bushings super pro does some poly bush kits that both dont need servicing and a have a no squeak guarantee, they will replace any bushings within the 30 year warranty not 100% on it its on all their kits but for mx5's they'll do it (providing you are the original purchaser and have the invoice) if you are wanting to go poly especially for street use cant recommend them enough have met people at track days running them 10yrs+ without greasing or squeak if you can find a kit for your car from them super worth not having to worry about greasing every 5k, also suprisingly good with keeping nvh down especially for poly
@deankay4434 Really? I thought if they went out of business they would ressurect the business, throw away a few hundred grand just to restart the factories just to produce one set of bushings just for me!
The bushes I’ve used are such a tight push fit that I needed a vice to press them in. Maybe they’ve improved. I just want something that doesn’t rot in a year like all the new reproduction rubber bushes seem to.
Y'know, I've been dicking around with cars since I could hold a spanner and have never come across this! Genius! Might have saved the swearing involved in the front end of my 147! I've moved on to a giulietta now and up until 20 minutes ago I was 50/50 on poly bushing the rear end (a common issue!). I think I'm sold... Thanks mate!
@@_RicksGarage hope you're right boss, I've just done the whole back end of the giulietta (shocking job!) and took your advice on each and every one of them! Silence so far... 👍😊
Hi Rick, thank you for the tips. I have bought Powerflex bushes for the upper wishbone and ARB (Eibach) bushes for my 156. Tomorrow I will mount them and I will use your method. 🍀👍
Hi Rick, great vid as usual. You can get PTFE bearing spray lubricant(dry film) at any half good bearing supplier. Personally I prefer silicone paste/grease but whatever works.
Thank you sir and thanks for the comments. Yes the PTFE spray does work great but only lasts for a short time before the bush starts squeaking again after a month or two. At least by the experience of some fellow car enthusiasts
Timely video as I'm about to replace bushings on front and back sway bars of truck. Have you tried PTFE anti-seize compound? I will try PTFE tape on one sway bar and PTFE anti-seize compound on the other and see how they get on.
It is more effective to start furthest from the leading edge and finish with it overlapping the leading edge, which prevents it rucking up when pressed into the orifice.
Yeah, I had a master mechanic that tried to take me for a ride. Tried to tell me that it was a $1500 fix when it was only grease needing to be added to a bushing.
Thanks for the tip, I'm about to fit a full set of poly bushes to my car. But if I can give advise in return, flip your PTFE roll around. As you wrap it around the sleeve, the tape hangs from the side facing you, but if you flip it so it hangs on the back side, wrapping it in the same direction as you did will naturally keep tension on the tape, making it easier to handle.
Excellent guide. At 8:14 you mention a little overlap of ptfe tape on the stainless insert. I watched a video earlier where a guy in the U.S. gives a similar demonstration. He states no overlap on the stainless insert. I have no good reason to doubt either of you, but can you see it from a viewers point of view? Which option should I go with? I think his concern is that it may bunch up. I would think bunching would be more likely to happen with an exposed edge. I kind of answered my own question there. 😂 The video is titled "How to Fix Polyurethane Bushing Squeak Permanently." The segment starts around the two minute mark.
Using the tape is a great idea. As you said I have heard of people never having a noise issue using the tape. I think you could take it even a step further. For instance if using these on a sway bar, first treat the area of the bar that the bushing goes over with a Teflon spray or even a good ceramic coating and allow it to cure. Then apply a single layer of tape over that area along with grease. On the bushing wrap a single layer of tape around it and apply your grease and install it on the bar. I think this approach would keep them good for a long time especially if the car is not a daily driver.
Awesome vid Rick. I have a 2007 300C that I want to overhaul the suspension on. I have a question though,, why doesn't anyone add grease fitings anymore? Way back I had a 1992 Chev Lumina 2-door coupe that I got tired of having to disassemble my front brake calipers to regrease the sliders. I put on a lot of miles back then. Every second weekend I drove to get my daughter. 250 kms one way so that made it a 1000 km weekend twice per month. What can I say, I love my daughter. :} Anyways, I installed grease fittings on the caliper housing to lube the sliders. Poked a hole in the rubber seals. Careful to inject the grease slowly. Why isn't anyone installing grease fittings on these bushings so you don't have to take everything apart to re-grease the bushings? Used to get a GOF at the garage. Grease/Oil/Filters. No more, just a "OF" lol. Cheer mates from Canada.
I'm installing a full kit for my c5 z06 atm and decided to drill/tap in zerk fittings for easy yearly greasing. The kit was so tight on its own there would be no way to do this for my particular car. I think being able to use a grease gun on them every year will do the trick.
I have Nolathane Poly bushes that I installed into the lower control arms of my Land Rover LR3. I wrapped the steel core with teflon tape and greased them before install. It's been 3 years of daily driving and so far no squeaks. I did not grease the polyurethane bushings like seen in this video as the manufacturer states that the polyurethane is meant to be fixed and only the steel core is supposed to rotate.
G'day from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍹😋 I enjoyed watching your video & im definitely going to give the tape around the bushings a go 👍 Great advise & tips to prevent that squeaky annoying sound , much appreciated matey ! Cheers from Aus 🇦🇺🕺
Just refreshed rear suspension on mine and I’ve kept to oe bushes just put better quality springs and shocks on I’m happy with the ride and I’m happy to keep my bush standard !😂
@@_RicksGarage good idea. The eibach springs on the V6 have never really been a favourite with many owners. Although only a drop of 20mm for the pro springs I think even this is too much for the v6 models. They do work better on the TS though. Either way if you return to standard that should solve any problems with the camber!
@dean Stanley hopefully you fitted the rose jointed bushes on the spring pan arms. These are available now from a few suppliers such as eb spares. These rose jointed bushes are the same as fitted to the V6 the JTS and the very last of the TS. They preserve the passive steering effect on the rear. I haven't had any problems though with the poly bushes on my Spider. The lateral dog leg arms are really good with poly bushes it's the spring pan arms that are crucial in this respect.
@@ds1868 you are absolutely correct. My days of driving undrivable cars and dodging potholes are behind me. I need the car to be useable for touring. Like you say, it should also fix my camber and stop scrubbing the rear arch liners too
@@_RicksGarage yes there should be no need to slot those holes in the upper wishbone arms Rick. Any adjustment to the rear can be kept to the toe which is easily adjusted with the two swivel rods. Would be interested to know the springs you will use. If you have a set of oe springs that's by far the best option. If a bit rusty they can be shot blasted and powder coated. The oe springs on the 916 are known to be very strong. I've never heard of one actually breaking. I know some people have used Suplex springs but not everyone completely happy with those. Still would be better than lowering with eibach.
Poly bushed my 159 front took them all back off apart from roll bar and replaced with oe rubber. Silicone spray made them worse lol. Got fed up with people looking as my car squeaked by like an old bed mattress.
If this is a concern, epoxy the poly bush into the arm. This part is not supposed to move. But you can ptfe or lube the centre metal bush all you want . Thats the bit that is designed to slip.
When you say ‘centre metal bush’ are you referring to the ‘ inner metal sleeve’,? if so, it is not designed to move when torqued down. Reference video: th-cam.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/w-d-xo.html . if not, what part exactly do you mean?
He’s right the bush is not designed to spin in the arm, the bush is designed to pivot on the tube. The grease is used on the tube as it’s slid into the bush.
Where do you stand on freezing bushings before installation ? Should I be freezing rubber or polyurethane bushings before insulation? Is it best practice or a waste of time?
It can help if the pressing of the bushing are extremely tight, some control arm or trailing arm bushings are ridiculously low tolerance and borderline need to be machine pressed to fit, so in those cases, hell yeah
What about just wrapping the pin with teflon tape? Have you tried that? I have some harder Teflon tape that has an adhesive side that I'm going to try. Adds .006" or .16mm to the diameter.
not heard that before well done with the fix , as a ex machanic that tells me the bushes are a ill fitting and move around in the housing ???????? if that`s the case how about glueing them in with no nail`s / sealent / epoxy resin . that should work just like the PTFE tape ?????
Kudos on the shop. I would love to be as neat and complete in my shop. But I think you are creating a hybrid solution that is a lot of work where you could simply use the appropriate grease. Rather than having mechanical tape and very light grease what you want is a very tacky and waterproof grease, one that will stay put and not get squeezed out. The correct grease is not the kind usable in steel bearings. Again you need a very tacky one. Engineer Butler Boyd helped me as his customer with his engineered race shackles and poly bushings.
I actually installed one of those powerflex bushes on my shitbox two days ago. Mainly because it saved me the hassle of removing a drive shaft and refilling the gearbox just to replace an engine mount... But I digress. The "grease" he is using is actually more akin to an assembly paste similar to what you're advising yourself. I'm not sure I'd even refer to it as grease given how thick and tacky it is. I've got a big tub of a similar paste I use on my mountainbike. (Morgan Blue Aquaproof paste) I'm curious if it isn't simply the same stuff.
@@Ahapenootjes Yeah I'm not sure but I work on bicycles too. You can't have too many tools in your toolbox. For my 71-73 Mustang many years back during the 90's I got from Pro Motorsports in Sandy Utah and the engineer there Boyd very nice Super Shackles for use with leaf springs, of course poly bushes with that compound.
Hi Rick, did you cover how to remove old bushes before fitting poly bushes in the rear suspension in any of your earlier videos? If not any chance of just running through the steps? Obviously you can't show the steps but any pointers before I start this job myself? Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe. I’m working on a questions and answers episode and I’ll include information about this job in that episode if that’s ok. It’ll be easier to explain 👍🏼
It isn’t just poly bushes that squeak when worn. The standard rubber bushes do too. Always fit them with red rubber grease. It lasts 5 years plus easily.
You still have to remove and re-grease them periodically, right? Some people say once year, some say every couple years, others say as much as every 5 years....
Hi, im trying to fit a polly bush on a torque bar on my volvo t5, it claims to be the correct part for my car but it seems just a bit to big, so I'm wondering is it the wrong part or I need to really press it in/freeze it ect
Could you help me to find a supplier of steering and suspension bushings for a 1979 Datsun Laurel 200L the one with square headlights? Thanks in advance👍
Tried this method and it worked for about 80% of my bushings, but i've got a couple that are just TOO tight of a fit and they constantly bunch up the tape even with the twisting and tightly wound tape. Any one had luck finding a way around this?
if the poly bushes are made correctly , the polybushes and the outer sleeve are the only things that rotate. if you hear squeaks, that means that the bush length is larger than the inner sleeve length. that is what makes squeaks. the correct way is the bush and the outer sleeve to rotate as one. if the inner sleeve length is smaller than the length of the bushing itself , you will have friction and not a very smooth up and down movement. Finally the inner length of a two part poly bush should leave a small gap between them inside the outer sleeve and in that gap you need a grease fit to eject grease regularly. these bushings that you use, are wrongly made. You can clearly see the length of the bushing being larger than the length of the inner tube-sleeve. powerflex makes this mistakes all the time that is why i no longer buy them. and not only that, but they use a mesh type of design inside the bushing , to help keep the grease inside , instead of a hexagone design for the hole of the polybushes for the inner tube instead of a cylindrical design, which will leave bigger gaps for the grease to remain inside. hope this helps.
This is the definitive tecnique. I've poly bushed my E46 and it works so well thanks Rick💪💪👍👍
Listen to this man, he knows what he speaks of. Been doing this for years....
3 years ago I replaced every single bushing, suspension & steering, on my daily driver Infiniti Qx4. I coated everything with white silicone brake grease. Even after occasional off-roading, I have not heard one squeak. 😉
I had ST sway bars & the polurethane bushings in the front and rear squeeked. I greased them, it stopped for 1/2 a day, then came back. Same on a Mercedes sway bar for the front. When I went back to OEM it was quiet. Everyone looked at me in the parking lot when i went over a bump. Unless its a race car & u need performance at any cost, get the polyurethane sway bar bushings. I shoulda tried teflon tape like in the video.
Videos like this are golden nuggets of information. Great explanation of why not just how. 👍🏻
I am glad you added the grade 8 bolt information as some kits do not include them. Plus, good grease info. I see were folks are complaining of a squeak noise frequently! A good PTFE silicone grease is supplied and recommended but other brands work well. Yes, this means you must read the instructions, warnings (Do not eat or squirt in eye balls) but, hey, someone this minute is buying a gallon of milk that expires tomorrow! Yum on my cereal, with a splash in my coffee. Dag Nabbit, just at the store and forgot the TP!
Especially with bushings that are a little loose because of improper manufacturing, this kind of system will help out a lot. I love attention to detail such as this.
should i do this also with rear subframe mounting bushings. Going with strongflex which is little bit cheaper so it might have more looser tolerances. My bushings are shot on my e46 330d on the subframe and rtab going with poly and replacing almost all bushings because i have to drop the whole rear subframe
@@j0lel666I'm sure you already replaced the subframe bushings, but might as well wrap with Teflon. A lot easier at install vs finding a way to get underneath the car to spray with PTFE or another lubricant, since the Subframe does have some movement
Great tip. I used Teflon before to make things slippery but I didn't think about using it on bushes. This is a good video to watch just before buying and installing poly bushes.
Great tip. Never heard of using Teflon tape for this, thx. Using for bushing replacements on 2000 Ford Ranger truck. Will use. Thx again
I'm glad I found this video, I'm trying to do a small lift on my Jeep Cherokee and I had learned that Poly bushings require a lot of maintenance and they're not as flexible but I figured using them in the leaf springs wouldn't be a bad idea, besides the maintenance to keep them from squeaking, I hope this video will work out for me.
This is a God tier tip. Thanks for sharing!
This is a very useful tip. I sometimes get a squeak from the poly bushes on the front GTA ARB but to be fair once regreased with copper grease they quieten down again. Will definitely apply the ptfe tape next time it's taken apart.
Thanx, just fitted poly bushes to the front ARB of my CLK. So lets see if it starts squeeking soon.
I will do the job again ur way if it does !!
Hi Rick, there are many brands of Polyurethane bushes, Polybush is a brand, you currently have Powerflex-branded polyurethane bushes, so using the word Polybush is a little bit misleading.
BUT... Your Polyurethane bushes squeak because the grease / lubricant attracts dirt, this creates a grinding paste which wears away the bush - We manufacture our bushes to NOT use grease or lubricant and for the bush material the move, rather than the tube move within the bush. Powerflex have the tube move within the bushing, means you have a bearing (technically) and a bearing with no lubricant isn't ideal.
So, although using PTFE tape on the outside of the bushing/tube will absolutely work to take up the slack in the bush in the housing or the tube in the bush. It won't necessarily solve the problem long-term as the same thing can happen again, grease attracts dirt, dirt and rotation creates wear and so on.
Also if your bushings do indeed have a stainless tube, you should really protect against galvanic corrosion, between the stainless tube and the non-stainless bolt.
Cheers & Top video.
The problem is that you guys don't makes any bushes for more modern cars, not even a single product for BMW F chassis.
@@מדינט We make lots of bushes for modern cars, in fact our best-selling bush is for a Ford Fiesta - But you're right, we don't really make anything for BMW.
We don't really have an outlet for them hence why we don't.
I like the idea and the demonstration. I have superpro bushes on my discovery and they don’t squeak but if/when they do I will use this technique.
Thank you.
for anyone thinking of going poly bushings super pro does some poly bush kits that both dont need servicing and a have a no squeak guarantee, they will replace any bushings within the 30 year warranty not 100% on it its on all their kits but for mx5's they'll do it (providing you are the original purchaser and have the invoice) if you are wanting to go poly especially for street use cant recommend them enough have met people at track days running them 10yrs+ without greasing or squeak if you can find a kit for your car from them super worth not having to worry about greasing every 5k, also suprisingly good with keeping nvh down especially for poly
If the company is still in business, then you may pursue warranty!
@deankay4434 Really? I thought if they went out of business they would ressurect the business, throw away a few hundred grand just to restart the factories just to produce one set of bushings just for me!
@@perplexed2352 not racing and don’t care. ASE Master. 78
@deankay4434 I'm not racing and I care.. same applies for Street Use @perplexed2352 already mentioned
"ASE Master ADA"
Awesome advice I will try this I use another secret method. To various success
The bushes I’ve used are such a tight push fit that I needed a vice to press them in. Maybe they’ve improved.
I just want something that doesn’t rot in a year like all the new reproduction rubber bushes seem to.
Y'know, I've been dicking around with cars since I could hold a spanner and have never come across this! Genius! Might have saved the swearing involved in the front end of my 147! I've moved on to a giulietta now and up until 20 minutes ago I was 50/50 on poly bushing the rear end (a common issue!). I think I'm sold... Thanks mate!
Comments likes this are very rewarding. Much appreciated 👍🏼
@@_RicksGarage hope you're right boss, I've just done the whole back end of the giulietta (shocking job!) and took your advice on each and every one of them! Silence so far... 👍😊
@@egon2875 excellent! Congrats. Hopefully it’ll stand the test of time for you. Ideal timing to get the job done before the end of season too 👍🏼
Hi Rick, thank you for the tips. I have bought Powerflex bushes for the upper wishbone and ARB (Eibach) bushes for my 156. Tomorrow I will mount them and I will use your method. 🍀👍
The video came just in time for you then! Haha. Good luck 🤌🏼🇮🇹🍀
I will give this a try with some bushings I have for my Mazda, great looking technique, essentially free and makes good sense
Try holding tape the other way around when applying. It keeps tape tight on dispenser
Every day you can learn something new, Thanks for that!
Well explained and a great preventative. I will be doing this when I do my GTV 3.0 V6
Amazing detail. Thanks very much for a very, very well made video. Appreciate your time and effort.
Great idea im in process of changing bushes on my car found this video useful thanks rick keep up the great content..best wishes
Hi Rick, great vid as usual.
You can get PTFE bearing spray lubricant(dry film) at any half good bearing supplier. Personally I prefer silicone paste/grease but whatever works.
Thank you sir and thanks for the comments. Yes the PTFE spray does work great but only lasts for a short time before the bush starts squeaking again after a month or two. At least by the experience of some fellow car enthusiasts
Timely video as I'm about to replace bushings on front and back sway bars of truck. Have you tried PTFE anti-seize compound?
I will try PTFE tape on one sway bar and PTFE anti-seize compound on the other and see how they get on.
any update on this?
never had a bushing go in that easy, maybe tape will help? Let you know soon...
Getting ready to do this on my LCAs so may give it a try. Thanks!
It is more effective to start furthest from the leading edge and finish with it overlapping the leading edge, which prevents it rucking up when pressed into the orifice.
Phenomenal Video!
Great video and thank you for the tips your video reminds me of watching art attack when i was a kid 😂
Interesting. I'll have to give this a try.
I have better luck unrolling the Teflon tape the other way. Easier for me to keep tension.
Thanks very much Rick. I'll be doing my morris bushes in due course. Very helpful.
Yeah, I had a master mechanic that tried to take me for a ride. Tried to tell me that it was a $1500 fix when it was only grease needing to be added to a bushing.
Thanks for the tip. Going to go thru the car and do it! Awesome!
Thanks for the tip, I'm about to fit a full set of poly bushes to my car. But if I can give advise in return, flip your PTFE roll around. As you wrap it around the sleeve, the tape hangs from the side facing you, but if you flip it so it hangs on the back side, wrapping it in the same direction as you did will naturally keep tension on the tape, making it easier to handle.
Excellent guide.
At 8:14 you mention a little overlap of ptfe tape on the stainless insert. I watched a video earlier where a guy in the U.S. gives a similar demonstration. He states no overlap on the stainless insert.
I have no good reason to doubt either of you, but can you see it from a viewers point of view? Which option should I go with? I think his concern is that it may bunch up. I would think bunching would be more likely to happen with an exposed edge. I kind of answered my own question there. 😂
The video is titled "How to Fix Polyurethane Bushing Squeak Permanently." The segment starts around the two minute mark.
Honestly I feel like it shouldn’t really matter both probably work just as good
PTFE tape = Teflon tape for us Yanks.
Cheers mate!
Using the tape is a great idea. As you said I have heard of people never having a noise issue using the tape. I think you could take it even a step further. For instance if using these on a sway bar, first treat the area of the bar that the bushing goes over with a Teflon spray or even a good ceramic coating and allow it to cure. Then apply a single layer of tape over that area along with grease. On the bushing wrap a single layer of tape around it and apply your grease and install it on the bar. I think this approach would keep them good for a long time especially if the car is not a daily driver.
It will be messy, but graphite power works wonders as a bushing lubricant.
Awesome vid Rick. I have a 2007 300C that I want to overhaul the suspension on. I have a question though,, why doesn't anyone add grease fitings anymore? Way back I had a 1992 Chev Lumina 2-door coupe that I got tired of having to disassemble my front brake calipers to regrease the sliders. I put on a lot of miles back then. Every second weekend I drove to get my daughter. 250 kms one way so that made it a 1000 km weekend twice per month. What can I say, I love my daughter. :}
Anyways, I installed grease fittings on the caliper housing to lube the sliders. Poked a hole in the rubber seals. Careful to inject the grease slowly.
Why isn't anyone installing grease fittings on these bushings so you don't have to take everything apart to re-grease the bushings? Used to get a GOF at the garage. Grease/Oil/Filters. No more, just a "OF" lol. Cheer mates from Canada.
I'm installing a full kit for my c5 z06 atm and decided to drill/tap in zerk fittings for easy yearly greasing. The kit was so tight on its own there would be no way to do this for my particular car. I think being able to use a grease gun on them every year will do the trick.
I have Nolathane Poly bushes that I installed into the lower control arms of my Land Rover LR3. I wrapped the steel core with teflon tape and greased them before install. It's been 3 years of daily driving and so far no squeaks. I did not grease the polyurethane bushings like seen in this video as the manufacturer states that the polyurethane is meant to be fixed and only the steel core is supposed to rotate.
G'day from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍹😋 I enjoyed watching your video & im definitely going to give the tape around the bushings a go 👍 Great advise & tips to prevent that squeaky annoying sound , much appreciated matey ! Cheers from Aus 🇦🇺🕺
Let us know how it works, down there in Dustland. I lives there for two years, NOTHING lasts against the Outback dust.
Great Tip and thanks for sharing.
You just use a heap of retaining compound on the outside and it locks the bush into the arm so it doesn't move and squeak
Great knowledge shared bro much appreciated
Just refreshed rear suspension on mine and I’ve kept to oe bushes just put better quality springs and shocks on I’m happy with the ride and I’m happy to keep my bush standard !😂
Haha some say the best way. I’m getting rid of my Eibach Springs and returning to OEM
@@_RicksGarage good idea. The eibach springs on the V6 have never really been a favourite with many owners. Although only a drop of 20mm for the pro springs I think even this is too much for the v6 models. They do work better on the TS though. Either way if you return to standard that should solve any problems with the camber!
@dean Stanley hopefully you fitted the rose jointed bushes on the spring pan arms. These are available now from a few suppliers such as eb spares. These rose jointed bushes are the same as fitted to the V6 the JTS and the very last of the TS. They preserve the passive steering effect on the rear. I haven't had any problems though with the poly bushes on my Spider. The lateral dog leg arms are really good with poly bushes it's the spring pan arms that are crucial in this respect.
@@ds1868 you are absolutely correct. My days of driving undrivable cars and dodging potholes are behind me. I need the car to be useable for touring. Like you say, it should also fix my camber and stop scrubbing the rear arch liners too
@@_RicksGarage yes there should be no need to slot those holes in the upper wishbone arms Rick. Any adjustment to the rear can be kept to the toe which is easily adjusted with the two swivel rods. Would be interested to know the springs you will use. If you have a set of oe springs that's by far the best option. If a bit rusty they can be shot blasted and powder coated. The oe springs on the 916 are known to be very strong. I've never heard of one actually breaking. I know some people have used Suplex springs but not everyone completely happy with those. Still would be better than lowering with eibach.
Perfektní práce a skvělý nápad
Could this method apply to rear leaf spring bushings? Thanks
Excellent tip. Thanks!
Poly bushed my 159 front took them all back off apart from roll bar and replaced with oe rubber.
Silicone spray made them worse lol.
Got fed up with people looking as my car squeaked by like an old bed mattress.
Perfect analogy 😂. Yes I know of many people who experienced the same issue with same outcome as yourself.
Wish id seen this before mine were fitted a few months back.
Maybe a little project for the future 👍🏼
so what about the single one piece bushes like powerflex are now making?
Great tip, I will try this next time I use Polly
Who is Polly?
Your girlfriend?
everyone needs to know about this
Another great video! Really need to attack my GTV at some point!
BRILLIANT!!!!!absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you from California!!!!
Impressive, is this for a new install, used or both? Thanks, learned something here!👍
If this is a concern, epoxy the poly bush into the arm. This part is not supposed to move. But you can ptfe or lube the centre metal bush all you want . Thats the bit that is designed to slip.
When you say ‘centre metal bush’ are you referring to the ‘ inner metal sleeve’,? if so, it is not designed to move when torqued down. Reference video: th-cam.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/w-d-xo.html . if not, what part exactly do you mean?
He’s right the bush is not designed to spin in the arm, the bush is designed to pivot on the tube.
The grease is used on the tube as it’s slid into the bush.
Where do you stand on freezing bushings before installation ? Should I be freezing rubber or polyurethane bushings before insulation? Is it best practice or a waste of time?
It can help if the pressing of the bushing are extremely tight, some control arm or trailing arm bushings are ridiculously low tolerance and borderline need to be machine pressed to fit, so in those cases, hell yeah
What about just wrapping the pin with teflon tape? Have you tried that?
I have some harder Teflon tape that has an adhesive side that I'm going to try. Adds .006" or .16mm to the diameter.
Great idea cheers Graham
Really good informative video
Can you advise on any brand please . I am looking at poly bushings for Lexus is300
not heard that before well done with the fix , as a ex machanic that tells me the bushes are a ill fitting and move around in the housing ???????? if that`s the case how about glueing them in with no nail`s / sealent / epoxy resin . that should work just like the PTFE tape ?????
Great DIY 👍👍
Has anyone used graphite powder? you can make your own basically sanding a pencil. Graphite is an excellent dry lubricant
Hi, what about the black Powerflex ?
Brilliant!
Kudos on the shop. I would love to be as neat and complete in my shop. But I think you are creating a hybrid solution that is a lot of work where you could simply use the appropriate grease. Rather than having mechanical tape and very light grease what you want is a very tacky and waterproof grease, one that will stay put and not get squeezed out. The correct grease is not the kind usable in steel bearings. Again you need a very tacky one. Engineer Butler Boyd helped me as his customer with his engineered race shackles and poly bushings.
I actually installed one of those powerflex bushes on my shitbox two days ago. Mainly because it saved me the hassle of removing a drive shaft and refilling the gearbox just to replace an engine mount...
But I digress. The "grease" he is using is actually more akin to an assembly paste similar to what you're advising yourself. I'm not sure I'd even refer to it as grease given how thick and tacky it is.
I've got a big tub of a similar paste I use on my mountainbike. (Morgan Blue Aquaproof paste) I'm curious if it isn't simply the same stuff.
@@Ahapenootjes Yeah I'm not sure but I work on bicycles too. You can't have too many tools in your toolbox.
For my 71-73 Mustang many years back during the 90's I got from Pro Motorsports in Sandy Utah and the engineer there Boyd very nice Super Shackles for use with leaf springs, of course poly bushes with that compound.
Does the manufacturer recommend ptfe tape along with supplied grease? I doubt it. Not necessary in my opinion.
Thank you for making this
I love the stif ride but im over those squeeky poly bushings. That sound is embarrassing when driving in my Condo building.
You used the black series? I get squeak lol will try your method see how I get on and report back
Hi Rick, did you cover how to remove old bushes before fitting poly bushes in the rear suspension in any of your earlier videos? If not any chance of just running through the steps? Obviously you can't show the steps but any pointers before I start this job myself? Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe. I’m working on a questions and answers episode and I’ll include information about this job in that episode if that’s ok. It’ll be easier to explain 👍🏼
Thank you very much sir
Very clever. Thank you!
It isn’t just poly bushes that squeak when worn. The standard rubber bushes do too. Always fit them with red rubber grease. It lasts 5 years plus easily.
Do you think this would be worth doing in rear axle bushes?
Excellent video.
Great idea
Brilliant! Earned my sub just from this!
Does this method work for the Rear Lower Control Arm Bush and Front Strut Top Mount Bush?
Also don't get why the purple bits were PTFE? I thought the metal pin is the only part that moves ? I may be wrong
You still have to remove and re-grease them periodically, right? Some people say once year, some say every couple years, others say as much as every 5 years....
good job thank you!
Rick gdje da nabavim polietilenske čahure imas li kakvu ideju mozda savjet .poz
love it nice 1
Used ptfe on my mini and 100 miles in squeaking like hell
Thx 👍
Hi, im trying to fit a polly bush on a torque bar on my volvo t5, it claims to be the correct part for my car but it seems just a bit to big, so I'm wondering is it the wrong part or I need to really press it in/freeze it ect
Could you help me to find a supplier of steering and suspension bushings for a 1979 Datsun Laurel 200L the one with square headlights? Thanks in advance👍
brilliant!
brilliant, thank you Rick!
Brilliant that 👏🏼
whats the music thats playing
Tried this method and it worked for about 80% of my bushings, but i've got a couple that are just TOO tight of a fit and they constantly bunch up the tape even with the twisting and tightly wound tape. Any one had luck finding a way around this?
In my opinion where the tape is just a no go because it's so tight,I would consider some kind of waterproof tacky grease or maybe even Graphite..
if the poly bushes are made correctly , the polybushes and the outer sleeve are the only things that rotate. if you hear squeaks, that means that the bush length is larger than the inner sleeve length. that is what makes squeaks. the correct way is the bush and the outer sleeve to rotate as one. if the inner sleeve length is smaller than the length of the bushing itself , you will have friction and not a very smooth up and down movement. Finally the inner length of a two part poly bush should leave a small gap between them inside the outer sleeve and in that gap you need a grease fit to eject grease regularly. these bushings that you use, are wrongly made. You can clearly see the length of the bushing being larger than the length of the inner tube-sleeve. powerflex makes this mistakes all the time that is why i no longer buy them. and not only that, but they use a mesh type of design inside the bushing , to help keep the grease inside , instead of a hexagone design for the hole of the polybushes for the inner tube instead of a cylindrical design, which will leave bigger gaps for the grease to remain inside. hope this helps.
what brand is recommended?