Removing The RUSTED Rear End on R32 ~ Time for Rehab
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Today we will be removing the rear subframe, rear control arms, rear differential, Haldex unit, and more on the R32. The metal parts are rusted and look awful. The bushings are worn, and we may install a limited slip for the diff. In this video we walk step by step on how to remove the whole rear end and strip it down for powder coat. We will also do this for the Haldex AND Diff soon. #humblemechanic
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The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
A little update. The parts came back from powder and look AMAZING!!!! Waiting on hardware and fuel tank straps so we can go back together!
While you're in there...
@@KMFDM781 SEE!!!! Every dang time
"you call that rust?" -everybody I know probably.
Can’t wait
Powder coated rust compromised control arms on a car with 500HP... Hmm 🤔
"that was more work than I expected"
Ive totally never been there before
@8:51 This would be the point where vloggy amateur-mechanic youtuber's would be like"ok guys this was awesome check out the next video to see what happens. ok bye". I'm glad you continue, Charles. This is why I subscribed years ago.
Thank you!!
The thing I liked about this video is you showed up the proper was to do the job with the semi specialized tools, then you told us a different way if you don’t have those tools. Much appreciated, and a good quality video, keep up the good work.
Awesome. Glad to help. I try hard to mentioned the “by the book” and the “if you have to” ways. Lol
"The plan is... " turns into "well... while I'm in there... "
YEP!
Yep. Thats why I'm poor.
😂😂😂😂 good one.
😂👍
Guilty of “While I’m in here”. Dropped the rear axle out of my 84 Blazer to put in longer leaf springs.... fast forward 6 months and I’m just starting to put it back together. Hey my undercarriage from firewall back is now linexed. New brake lines, fuel lines, etc... cause well while I was in there...
Lol at the rust. I live in Alberta. That looks brand new to me!
I live in Newfoundland and that looks like a brand new car underneath lol
Hahah here this is considered a rusted pile 😂😂😂
Yuck. My MK4 has more miles on the clock than this R32 and is pretty much as good as new underneath, bless warm sunny weather 🥲
Mechanics "while I'm in there.."
Pull out game - weak 🤣🤣🤣
Comment of the year so far 😂
The Joy of Automotive Repair with Humble Mechanic.
This whole time I though he was working on a skyline
i searched for this comment soon as i seen it was a VW 😭😭
only reason i clicked on the video
Literal clickbait
I was about to comment the same , saw the title and instantly thought R32 skyline coz golfs r32’s , knowone bothers here
😂
Although I myself would find a project like this a bit beyond my shade tree mechanical abilities, I still find projects like this very interesting. Great job. Can't wait to see more on this project.
I love Your videos about MK4s. You are showing everything as visible as possibile so that amateurs like me can see it all as it realy is. Thank You for that. 👍
It‘s nice to see that i‘m not the only one fighting with exact the same job on my gen1 Audi S3 - which is 99% the same work.
I‘m just a few days ahead, got all blasted, powder coated, cleaned, new powerflex bushings in and on the way to put all back together.
So good luck, i‘m already waiting for the next parts. Unfortunately i can‘t share pictures here.
Btw - the rear ends here in europe don‘t look much better after almost 20years.
Greets from germany !! 😉
Nice. If you’re on other platforms tag me!
If I had a nickel for every time I thought to myself "improper tool usage..but it's all I got" I could probably still not afford the proper tools. LUL.
Hahah yep!
Even with boxes of special tools, you still rarely have the one you need at the time.
Cheap welder and various bits of steel rod, bar, tube and junk can come in real handy to make a temporary 'special tool'
@@1crazypj haha right, I've made a few specialty tools with random bits lying around. Tool didn't feel so special then I bet xD
Man I am so glad I live down south, rust isn’t too much of a big deal. The inductive heater I have works great for things like this.
love watching a craftsman at work.
and thanks for wearing safety glasses, i cringe seeing people under old cars
with no eye protection. dirt, rust, fluids and metal filings really fuck up the eyes.
Just today I asked under your last video about a detailed video about the Haldex and the diff. And now you just announced it. You are now the high priest for my car who now shall have the name Charles in order to honor you.
Thanks for making these videos through your rebuild process! Looking forward to your tear down of the rear diff and Haldex unit. I have a rear diff that I need to pull out of my BMP R32 that started to howl and pop in tight turns before I put it in storage
Listen man, the world can only handle the awesomeness of one Charles, but multiple, man youre going to break the universe or something.
Hahahha I have a limit 1 Charles rule in most cases. 😂
For the ball joint bushings I used a 50mm length of pipe that fitted in the housing.
Then I placed a 8mm thick bit of pate steel on top of the pipe and went to town with the air hammer!!! :)
Very good to get it started.
I then used the same pipe on the press to push it all the way out.
Great content
Thank you
going to reference this video when it’s time to redo my rear subframe on my MK1 TT. great work!
Hope i soon got time in my life so i can finish a turbo upgrade and downpipe on a Audi TT, finish the welding on a rollcage on a Alfa 4c. Give a New Beetle a makeover and testing everything works, so i finally then can start on a another Alfa 75 racecar project.
Non of the cars is mine so i have the luxury of working on racecars and don't care about the cost in parts. I see that as a win 😂
Your videos motivates me to find time to all those projects. Big thanks
Oh man, as an East Coaster originally - do not miss the epic rust on EVERYTHING. What a mess.
Awesome work Charles!
I'm working on a 2007 Tourans rear suspension / subframe - if you think that R32 back end is rusty, it's got nothing on this!...every control arm will need to be replaced (probably will have to cut them all off as i expect the bolts, especially the eccentrics, to be seized solid in the bushings). Subframe looks so bad that i might need to buy a 2nd hand one in better condition before treating it, as i doubt this one is worth saving.......btw i had to drill out my speed sensors!, couldn't even hammer them out from the other side after removing the wheel bearing.
Dang!!!
I drilled out the speed sensor on a civic trying to diagnose why the abs kept acting up.
I have seen sunken boats less rusty than this subframe... wow!
Thanks for the video, loving this black r32 video series!
Thanks, now you got me wanting to tear all this out on my mk1 tt and redo everything
I wanna do it on my mk1 aswell!
Enjoyed watching you strip that all done, going to look great once it’s all clean and back together.
This is the most realistic video of Mechanic Simulator I’ve seen so far! Looking forward to the finish of the project.
That impact gun was the real mvp in the video
Well done sir! Great details and minimal “dead air”. You’re a great orator in these videos. This video made me smile bc I just went through the exact same thing on my 93 300zx NA coupe. Fun experiment to learn how it all comes together.
Thank you for posting this! I see some of the same areas of unhappiness by the rear subframe and this was a good visual of the area. Nice execution getting it on the bench in one clip. Looking forward to the rest
Parden the interruption Charles. The GF sent a picture of a Birthday Cake. She's one of those kitchen wizards. Always from scratch. I digress. Thanks so much for standing by.
"How much are you into it...?" There's no fun in knowing that number.
Lets try and keep it positive here. HAHAHA I don't really know right now. I will report when complete.
Nice touch on the "double Charles" wheel removal! Some fancy editing there
Hahah I like to drop some fun stuff in every video. :)
I remember subscribing to you superrrrrrr early when you were at like 20 or 10k subscribers (I think you were still working at VW). It's awesome to see how far you've come and how much your channel has grown. I kind of went MIA for a bit during a large period though and idk why 😔😔😔😔
Thanks so much!!!
1:30 mins in video realized it wasn't an Nissan R32, watched it anyhow. I like.
Poli bushes work great on compression, they do not like twisting. On subframe the should last forever.
watching you deal with all that rust made me really happy to live in a part of the country that rarely gets rain and maybe 1-2" of snow and the hwy dept never uses salt....although dealing with 110-120 degree summer days i wonder sometimes.
Me too. My blue one is a no rust. This guy lived in MI
I would love to do that to my passat as it's very rusty.
Your Videos are one of a kind, I humbly thank you for providing such a deep PQ34 information level. I can take so much information out of them, for my Skoda Octavia 1U, many many thanks!
Awesome Channel!
FInally! i've been waiting for this video from you for a while! i know doing the work and then video editing takes forever Thanks for the hard work!
I know!!! Trust me I wish I could go faster. HAHA
Don't forget about the brake lines and the bleeding abs stuff. I dealt with some of this changing broken trailing unit mk4 golf gls years ago. I managed to save the brake lines. I have a mk1 TT and it's crustier than that yikes maybe in a couple years or if something else needs repair. I did just replace rear springs . Running good at 240k doing timing chain on mk5 TSI now wish me luck thanks for the warnings I'm being very careful.
If you come across the same issue with the union twisting the hard brake line, try gently heating up the line and union for a few seconds with a small blow torch. It doesn’t always work and obviously don’t do it near anything flammable or near the fuel tank. I use this trick quite often and providing you don’t get carried away and use too much heat you can usually reuse the line.
This is awesome! I need to do this pretty soon on my R32.
A thoroughly enjoyable strip down - enhanced only because it’s going to be rebuilt as good, if not better, than when it left the factory. I hope the rebuilt version still maintains the solid and smooth drive experience of the MK4 but with plenty more torque.
I use that wheel bearing kit for so many things besides wheel bearings. Used it on mk3 cross member bushings and control arms as well. Best tool ive bought
Yep it’s a great tool. I may upgrade at some point. This was a cheap Amazon one
That quite a complex rear end setup! Thanks for the motivation! “While I’m in there” parts are now on their way for the SRT4......
You are a profesional mechanic, right tools to work. Nice shop too. Regards.
Cheers!!!
It’s really funny. The method used to take the bushings out is the exact method used to remove a center seal for many top load washing machines, most notably the whirlpool cabrios. A good process has many applications I suppose.
Great vid with some great tips on removing the rusty bits. I don't want to be a H&S bore here but I witnessed a scary moment on a two post lift when 100+Kg transmission was removed from the rear and that heavy engine is still hanging out there up front, the car wants to do a nose dive off your lift.
Spoken like a true project. I don’t know what I have in it yet 😬
Love the series.
When you were removing the outer joint of the CV from the knuckle, another trick it to just hit the part of the spindle that protrudes with a rubber mallet first. Usually, it’ll come loose with that first swing, but if not, I like to keep a brass rod or punch around to hit with a hammer. (The brass is softer than the CV spindle so you don’t risk damaging the threads).
Looking for a sequence of this video, is there one? Just got to know your channel when searching some repair videos for the passat b5 that I recently bought, greetings from Brazil and keep up the good work! Your videos have been helping me a lot to know better about VW cars and the way they are built
Glass protector are very important when u do that job! Lots of things could come in your eyes. nice
Charles: "Let's remove and rebuild this rusted, awful rear end"
Me from Minnesota: "Umm, what rust are you talking aboot?"
Hahahaha I know
I love this guy's videos. He fixes cars like I do, takes them apart like a pro...then just like that, I miss the next episode and my parts are still laying on the bench like in this guy's. lol
I hate that kind of work you did in that video, especially with all that rust. But it is fun to watch doing it somebody else...😁
I love the R32. You got yourself a subscription. Looking forward to the next videos. Greetings from Germany 👍🏻
24:22 when things are going just a bit too well... You get a bit suspicious about what now *has* to go wrong down the line. 😂
26:34 = the universe is now just having fun with you...
I really like the way you make videos. I have to disassemble the rear end to. So this video is a nice tool for my mk4 v6 rebuilding. 👌
That is not rust man.....but I love what you do here!
Wow I'm enjoying this. Please do not water down your content in the interest of click bait or short-attention span viewers as some other channels have... *cough* Speed Academy *cough*
Lol thanks. I try to have a title that gets people as excited as I am. Not a clicky bait fan
Man thanks that is serious work. It’s amazing when you have the right tools
Looks like a really stout piece! Something I will consider for my CB7 AWD project. Just like the Yotas, there's a lot of cast iron and steel on the assembly. I'd consider forming up some jigs for the pieces and creating some cromo tube alternatives. It's things like this that get the weight up over 3,000lbs. Big bulky 1/8 steel arms and fat steel k frames, rad supports, cast iron hubs, cast rotor centers, can add up to 5-8 hundred pounds of crap easily.
Circle Track chassis sites have everything from billet aluminum hubs with titanium spindles to aluminum rotors with steel inserts.
Should I use the number 2 or number 3 bungee cord, good thing they're color coded! :) You're one of my top 2 TH-cam video channels to watch, the other is M539 Restorations, both of you gentlemen are no BS, knowledgeable, to the point on your narrations, humorous with high production values. Excellent!
Great job. I'm amazed those bushings came out of the trailing arm.. this was an epic undertaking.
Great video, standard Charles. 😎
I've always been afraid of those trailing arms, looks like my fears were justified 😬
Gives me confidence on tackling my own R32 one day though🤞 Keep up the great work, loving this series!
R32 Golf???!? I've been watching your haldex and diff teardown now this video with the glorious skyline r32 pictured in my mind. Damn!
Hope you still enjoyed it! :)
I love your R32 videos! You are doing a great job! I am doing the same job with my front axle on my R32 right now. Greetings from the home of the R32, Germany 👍
heh triple square bolts...at my shop where we don't deal with a lot of VWs. I had a I think 14ish Passat Wagon in for a rear brake job, pads and rotors. The bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the knuckles, yes those ones that pass thru like 2+ inches of aluminum, well they corroded into the deep holes and were a bear to get out and I broke one...with a triple square bit at the business end of a Snap-On 18 inch long 3/8s drive ratchet...MUCH FUN! Thankfully it wasn't hard to drive it out the air hammer and extract the remains from the bracket. I replaced all four bolts and added a LOT of anti-seize on just the portion that was in the aluminum. The fact I broke the BOLT head off and not strip it out means the bit was bottomed out in the bolt head recess...folks make sure they are all the way in before you apply torque!
100%!!! With rust those bolts are a beast
Just watched Car Wizard before this and he will have his "While I'm in there" moment some time soon. He bought a '38 Olds straight 8. Sounds like not a full resto, but these things have a life of their own.
Hahahha cool
Brass drift or brass lump hammer is what we normally use. Still sends the shock but the brass is much softer than the steel so it mushrooms rather than the steel
Fascinating watching you work and edit, love watching you man
Hey Charles if you make your lines I would suggest using a nickle-copper lines for the car. They are easy to flare and won't have the corrosion issue that steel has.
That was my plan. But I found new OEM lines for about $50 each
“We did a thing, I guess” is my motto in the shop
You enjoy a job like this, which would be nail-biting torture for almost anyone else
I understand Charles completely. I have the same mental defect working in my Alfa Romeo 156 3.2V6. Been there, done that. That’s including the glasses bit, and I don’t wear a cap...
Gently, gently, geeeennntly..... Classic!!! Lol. Another AWESOME video Charles. Keep them coming. And btw....I bought a dremel tool just for cleaning bolts just a couple months ago. Great minds think alike.
Damn, that rear end is complicated, and above all- RUSTY! :)
Thats a great video! I think you made the right decision and did the wheel bearing....i would hate to do all that work and have that need to be replaced shortly after
As a safety tip... Next time when you smack the axle nut, rest a hammer on the nut and smack the hammer instead of the nut. I find this to work just fine. GOOD STUFF NONETHELESS!!!
I'm from Dallas, Texas..what is this rust you speak of?
Ummmmm.... That's not rusty!
well, 30min ago I was planning to be in bed sleeping, but damn these R32 episodes are too good. great work as usual!
THANKS!!!
She sure is a biiiiiiiig job young Charles. Better you than me.😁👍
*While I'm in there...*
Removing a hub nut from my old 95 Accord Wagon, I had to drill it in a few places and chisel it off - chisel it at least a couple turns before it started to spin.
Love the table setup for this video Charles. Looks super professional and well lit
Thanks
To be honest, I even bought myself a bottle of WD-40 cause all you youtubers use it 👍
Once again, amazing video Charles. Can't wait to see the next one! Cheers from Argentina.
Thanks you
Charles, I'm gonna bring you my 2012 Golf 2.5L 5sp manual (237,000 miles) to change the transmission fluid.
There isn't a single vid out there that shows how to do it properly.
It takes 2 liters. Only one came out when I did it. It's as if there are 2 chambers in there.
Hi Charles . Witching working on the brake lines I use double boiled linseed oil to stop salt rust etc .on my 1980 Rabbit , I put it on everything chassis , but BIG BUT IT IS DANGEROUS STUFF . you have to wait a week before driving or start the motor , highly flammable . My neighbour watching me did the same . He got to the first intersection his car went up in flames . Don’t do this at home or any were else .
Yikes!!! Lol
The video setup is first-class
Thank you!
This was really satisfying to watch.
Thanks!!
Take the retainer clip off the brake line that holds it to the body of the car. Put a wrench on both sides of line to hold it in place as you turn it loose. Works every time for me
Yeah some more tinkering and I could have got the line off. But since the coating was coming off, I wanted to make it right.
And check this out. The new OEM lines are like $60 each. I bought 2 sets. Ha
I clicked on the video because I thought Charles was Aaron from Gas Monkey Garage lol but really enjoyed the video and instantly subscribed
can't wait for the next video on this one!
Bit late, but may help someone, with those plastic coated brake lines it't the zinc plating underneeath that oxidizes and jams the tube nut on the pipe, the trick to get the tube nut undone without breaking the brake pipe is to heat the connection up enough that the plastic coating of the brake pipe goes soft , then as long as the brake pipe is not weakened by rust it's usually possible to loosen the tube nut. Alternatively try undoing the brak pipe from jump hose to brake calliper 1st then undo connection by turning the brake hose, or jsut cut the brake hose, it's way easier to replace the jump hose and calliper brake pipe than the brakes pipes on the underside of the car.
I did al the same stuff on my 95 vr6 Corrado and there is one very big disadvantage to al this..... Every time I have it on the lift I HAVE to clean al the parts or else I can't sleep....
It's a problem
"Call that a victory .....maybe not " 🤣
Lol
Heck, I've never seen such rust on a relatively recent car like that here in north Italy. What do they put on the road there, NaOH? HCl? That's crazy!
By the way, I don't know if you know this product, but for restoration of parts that don't go under sand blast, try to find a product called "Fertan". It does magic. It's not one of those crappy converter that makes a film over the rust while the rust goes on below. It converts the rust, then you wash it away and you can put anticorrosion base coat on the part. Widely used by car restorators here.
Well, 2004 or whatever this car is is 16 years ago. That's about what you can expect from a car around here in terms of rust (Netherlands). Can confirm the Fertan stuff though, really good stuff.
@@Swordie100 probably for Netherlands it's due to the fact that sea is near. I heard that similar effects happen here too in places near the sea. I'm between Milan and Switzerland border and my last car (Alfa 156 MY2002) was not remotely rusted like this one :)
@@AlessandroGenTLe Yeah that is a big difference of course! Also, we are quite liberal with salt on the roads.. My Mk3 Cabriolet only had 92.000 km when I got it in 2016, and I fixed all the rust on the rocker panels in about 2018. It wasn't bad but even at that amount of km's it had to be done.
I HAVE ELECTRONIC ANTI-RUST ATTACHED ON MY 1998 MODEL CAR SINCE 2005, AND UP TO NOW UNDER-CHASSIS, UNDER THE HOOD STILL ALMOST NO RUST AT ALL! I HOPE YOU CONNECT ONE TOO
Where's my goggles?? 😂 I'm glad I'm not the only one that's done that.
Jahahah is normally cut that out. But I was cracking up while editing so i figured well I bet y’all can relate
Absolutely amazing I tuned in for everything no matter what it is so let’s go!!!!
Wooo
I would love for this man to service my vehicle. Lmao I have a 2010 vw TDI in need to timing belt/hpfp/ water pump replacement. Also needs some brake and suspension work
I like how you edited the video to look like multiple of you working on the rear end
Haha thanks. Thought it was a fun little thing
@@HumbleMechanic quick one Charles, not related to your R32 build though but is related to the 7/7.5 R. Was wondering if you would have an idea of where do the exhaust flap motor on the 7/7.5 R is connected to? Reason I am asking is because I am thinking about ways to integrate the same exhaust flap motor onto my MK7 GTI. Was able to find the part # for that so the only challenge i have here is to identify where the connector is connected to.