This is the only tutorial that is actually useful on youtube. You show all the steps, explain everything clearly. 10/10 Greetings from Sweden (in the rust belt)
VW owner here, your a great mechanic and teacher. I love when you mention past mistakes you've made or seen made before for reference. Also your humble humor makes for entertaining content. Three cheers for Charles!
Hub goes off easily, a bit of hammering with a socket and that's it. By the other hand, the outer bearing race is harder to take out. I take out two of them in a three day span, and the first went off in two minutes, the second in fourthy minutes, because the bearing was much older. All done with a hammer, as my press lack of adapters and broke the first knuckle (it was from my car).
As someone who lives in Ohio I can relate to a good deal of time on of many jobs being cleaning up rust before reassembly....lol. I watch these guys outside the rust belt working on autos and yes, I am a bit envious. I know one guy.....Eric O.......has a youtube channel and he is around New York.....so he has it even worse than us Ohioans. My poor ole 2001 Silverado was pretty well rust free when I got it in 2011 and now after 11 years of Ohio weather the cab corners, rockers and rear wheel wells on the bed are about gone....but the frame is still solid.......yes, the rust belt woes....lol.
I am from a hilly/wooded area (mid Europe) and here they also use much salt... you can also check Gerhard Holzknecht who specializes on rust removel and protection... a good protected and cared for car will also live through "rust belts"...my car is 25 yrs old (VW) had I protected it better it would have not much rust but I neclcected it for a while...
Last time I changed a wheel bearing it lasted for about 5 months. I like to think that it was manufacturer fault but deep down I know that I hammered it in like a caveman
Been following you for years. It's good to see you more light hearted than you have been. Good to see you dumb it down some for the rest of us and hear the joy in your voice. Your winning.
Been seeing this telegram scam for awhile now. Group if us got together and started tracking them down. We just show up out of the blue. A parking lot, at a gas station or grocery store. Never see us coming and man does it hurt.
As a rust-belt mechanic for a VW/Audi shop, I used anti-seize on anything that didn't already call for a specific grease/threadlocker. I have never had the moly grease come with my bearings, so I always anti-seized the bearing in and anti-seized the hub into the bearing. We also did a lot of seasonal wheel swaps so we also anti-seized wheel hub faces and lug bolts to make sure our wheel swaps were effortless.
Rust belt DIYer, everything I replace on my car gets Fluid Film'd or anti-seized if at all possible. Been Fluid Filming the underside of my car for years to delay the inevitable death-by-rust but it also keeps suspension bolts from rusting in place...mostly 🤣
I live in eastern Canada ( New Brunswick) where the winter temperatures go through big changes over a few hours. Rust is a big problem here. I use a lot of anti size when doing repairs and on hub face and lug nuts. I also carry a breaker bar in trunk. I don’t want any problems if I have to change a tire in minus 20 degrees.
I do the same thing in Southern California. Even the wheel cleaners can cause severe corrosion to these parts and cause wheels to stick on the hubs. I never have issues removing wheels, hubs or components that I used antiseize paste on. I think it is a sign of professionalism and courtesy to the next guy that works on the car. I have tons of respect for the skilled rust-belt mechanics, they are masters at what they do.
Easiest hub removal I've ever seen. Because of that and the appearance of the inner most hub shaft surface, hub had to be loose in the inner bearing race. Plus the tone ring for ABS was damaged making replacement with a new hub the correct choice. The whole press in bearing job was the easiest I've ever seen done or done myself. I do on car using hub grappler by OTC. Easier set up and quicker due to less disassembly than using a shop press where set up is a real pain due to odd shapes of spindles. Plus saves having to do an alignment on some cars. Snap ring placed in hub is a good tip, I know that sick feeling you get when you look down and see the snap ring on the floor when you're torquing down the axle nut. ONLY HAPPENED ONCE, BUT IT LEFT A LASTING IMPRESSION. Thanks Charles.
MAN that feeling HAHA I felt it when I read your comment. I hate that it went so easy TBH. I prefer when its a pain for me, so people can gear up for somethign bad.
I remember replacing both front wheel bearings on my MK3 GTI VR6. I didn't have the ability to press them in, but VW Parts Place will sell you a refurbished carrier with the new bearings in place, and you return your carrier back for the core deposit. It worked out great. I have more ability now, so I'd definitely just rent the tools I need and do the job. Back then, it was the furthest this home mechanic had ever dug into the front end of a car, so I'm glad that service exists.
One more important thing, if the thing you're pressing in is putting pressure on the inner race, DONT support the outer race on the other side but the inner one otherwise you'll push the bearing apart
I wish this video exist when I did my wheel bearing. I went into it blind not knowing all of this. I tell you what I learned real quick. Sad to say I experience all of that LOL At least now I know. This IS A VERY INFORMED video on the wheel bearing replacement. This video will save you TONs on time and stress!
One year I did a wheel bearing right before leaving for H2Oi in OCMD from NJ which was about 250 miles each way. When I left town after the weekend I started to hear the humming and knew it was bad already. By the time I was 50 miles out from home I was truly worried I wouldn't even make it home because the sound had progressed so much. Luckily I did. I learned a valuable lesson that day. I had put a new bearing on the old hub, and I guess the tolerances had opened up. From that point on I will always do a bearing and hub together. Especially, as you pointed out, when the hub is 30 dollars.
Of all the mechanics I’ve seen on YT, you are my favorite. Thanks for taking the time to explain the finer points of the jobs you’re working on. Explaining that you need to use slightly different sizes when pulling and pressing in the bearing is the type of information that amateur mechanics need to know/learn.
Top notch explanation, lighting, and audio. Having watched many pressed in wheel bearing videos, I appreciate your discussion of option and variance. Love your snappy, entertaining clip format. I've never seen mechanics use a ring light, ha ha.
Man, I remember I once had a customer come in with a BMW E34 540i that had a failed wheel bearing, not only did the nut come off easily, the entire hub and wheel bearing slid right off, including the inner race. Fastest wheel bearing I've ever done, it was like 15 minutes start to finish. Sometimes life gives us a break.
Holy crap, never seen a hub just fall out! Guess your axle nut was really doing its job. In my experience, at least on Japanese cars, slide hammer is a go. The right snap ring plyers are great. I also prefer not to use power tools. The feel is important and a lot of wheel bearings have been damaged during install from off angle stress, usually with a press. Being in the NE, I like to add a layer of grease to the inside of the knuckle and/or outside of bearing. The snap ring holds it in place anyways, it will never move, but then it can't become seized with rust in the future. Light grease in the snap ring groove too. That's quite the axle nut torque procedure. Great work as always!
@@HumbleMechanic don't feel too bad, because of top-notch videos like this I'm sure you'll be saving countless hours of frustration and headache. Thank you so much!
Thank you so so so so much for putting out THE BEST mechanical how-to's on the PLANET! Every minute detail, every step of the job, nothing skipped, great knowledge and my favorite, super awesome camera work, multiple angles, always focused on exactly what you need to and plenty of light. I just can't thank you enough you are a huge help in keeping my aging Mark IV Volkswagen alive, seriously, saving me huge amounts of money on repair bills in the process! Keep doing what you're doing Humble Mechanic, you're a Saint!
Just want to tell you, thank you for the content. It was the video that helped me fix my situation. Explaining all the snags I had along the way along with the little details that matter the most tbh lol spoken in an easy to understand way. I appreciate you man. This was a saver.
always bringing great videos with even greater explanation for us to gain a better understanding of what we are doing rather than just blindly following. Thank you Humble Mechanic! greetings to Paul from DAP - you guys are the BEST!
i changed a rear wheel bearing on a transporter t5 yesterday, used a hydraulic press tool it makes the job sooooooo easy I really love those hydraulic press tools
This guy he know exactly what he doing...👍... I have been doing this kind of job for yrs... this hub and bearing was a peace of cake... I had been done one, I have to take an cv axle out with it. And heat and hammer cv out.. lucky the customer understand it's was very bad, and happy to buy a new cv... 👍👍
I was a little surprised that the OTC Hub Tamer or Hub Tamer Elite wasn't used for this job. It makes all of these steps so much easier. It is the preferred tool for this job for 20+ years. There are even foreign copies of the tool. Additionally, I use MIG welders and plasma cutters to remove bearing races. Nobody uses a Dremel, ick. Inductive bolt heaters or a heating tip on an Oxy-Acetylene torch are used. I do this work on the side, and these tools and tricks have been known in the industry since forever. We have to do the job correctly.
I had one fail on my mk2 golf and just replaced the entire assembly. It was easier. On a side note they say that people you admire are always shorter in real life...you did not disappoint! 😉 saw you at the Lòe show, but you were having a serious conversation with someone by the R32s...
Charles, this is another good helpful video. A perfect follow up video would be to demonstrate removal/installation of the rear wheel bearing assembly on the MKIV GTI, if that's necessary on the GTI in this video. Thanks for your great work.
Great series of tips! However, between 15:38 to 15:41 I see you added a washer under the nut through the magic of video editing! 20:14 grease added. Good save!
LOL, this is like instructions for my grandma to do the bearing change. Super detail for someone who never did it before. Nice, but could be also dangerous if people with very low amount of mechanical experience decide that this is easy enough and "I can do it". Nice video for sure, very detailed, one can show you really want to help. Very nice.
Living in Scotland, we have lots of rain and in winter, road salt so we get Rust, lots of rust. I always make sure to anti-seize/grease everything that needs it. That also includes mating faces. However I always clean any old grease off and scrub it all down with diesel or paraffin to make sure there's no old grease there. It's not good to mix greases for as it can melt them out . Just because I follow the manufacturers recommendations on type, doesn't mean the last person has.
Work as a tech in the rust belt, and just did my front end hub assemblies on both sides. I have that press tool and after about 30 minutes gave in and took the knuckle out and threw it on the hydraulic press
I come from a rock out in the Atlantic ocean, unless it specifically calls for loctite we anti-seize the living crap out of every nut, bolt and assembly. Even then it's not enough sometimes. Cars with cheap flimsy subframes and control arms typically only last 5-8 years before they are fit for the scrapyard. Undercoating every year is a must. A chip in the paint has to be fixed immediately otherwise your body panel will rot off in a couple weeks. I live out west on the mainland now and rust is a non-issue. Makes my life so much easier lol
Crazy that you just put this video out lol. Just started having issues with my front passenger side wheel bearing on my 2012 mazdaspeed3. Looking forward to tackling it this fall
My car is a '08 Jetta City, same hub & bearing. Definitely lubed the bore as you did, got the new hubs being so cheap. Also lifted bearing seals to squirt more grease inside as factory lube was very sparse. One of the most tedious bearing jobs, but the most satisfying using the right tools. Good job!
My favorite way to fix a Volkswagen, is to grunt and hit it with a hammer... And then take it to DAPRepair and let the experts handle it. Great video as always Charles! I haven't finished the video yet, but you always have great videos.
Invaluable content! Late comment so this probably won't be seen by many BUT regarding working with snap rings: it's good practice to always have your free hand (preferably wearing some kind of mechanics glove) cupped over the ring while it's under tension in the pliers. If those teeth slip, the ring will be shot into outer space, and or your face!
Thank you for such a clear and concise video. Just did this on my 02 mk4 and my wheel bearing was split just like this one. you couldnt have made it easier, thanks again!
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
At 15:00 I prefer using the wheel bearing cup ( p/n 955-07) on the opposite side, so facing the inner race bearing. This speeds up the alignement of the tool on the bearing before applying full torque to unseat the used bearing. Same thing at 22:53 you have it on the wrong side. And you don't want to thread the nut starting on the empty thread side because this causes stress on the tool by not having all the nut threads fully engaged.
Hahah Charles! My favorite way to fix a Volkswagen: Buy a Porsche! When you do that, you're not straying too far. I've had a '77 Rabbit, an '80 Jetta two door, an '85 Scirocco Turbo, a '92 Corrado SLC, and a '97 Jetta GLX. My Volkswagens were always tons of fun but they involve compromises; My Porsche's have not. GREAT video!
@25:52 When you install that Caliper w/Brake Bracket did you apply any Threadlocker on those mounting bolts? I put a Blue Thread Locker on that job like a 1.5 years ago, everything was good, no problems w/breaks. I see in many films people use Blue TL on those attaching Brake Bracket-to- Knuckle bolts. But now I did smth else on suspension and needed to remove the Brake Bracket again. When I looked to double check the torque and everything in Shop Manual for our 2001 Saturn SL2 (I have one), they say there to apply Heat 272 Loctite or equivalent. And if you don't have that Red Loctite, you need to replace the attaching bolts. Of course it is advice for a shop w/unlimited access for the bolts of that type and everything, and they are very precise (supposed to be of course). But why everyone applied Blue, as Shop Manual says Red? That what puzzled me. This is full Saturn Shop Manual 2000-2001 S-series, very detailed, 3 huge volumes (4-5 different books inside of each volume, put together w/binder), thin strong paper like papyrus. I'm confused on all that. If I apply Red TL, will I be able to brake those nuts w/huge breaker bar, or heat would be needed? It is not a problem to apply heat of course, but there are CV Axle Boots there close by, I even don't know. And again, everyone applies Blue: The Mech a nic, Chris Fix, many others. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
I have a jetta with 615K miles on it. I have had them come loose like you noticed with this one. I have since started leaving them highly torqued instead of backing them off and retorquing. Also if you take the one strut bolt out you can pull the entire hub out and work on it easier on the floor.
My 04' Passat 1.8T 5 speed Wagon once again thanks you. Fortunately when I first got the ride my mechanic wanted my DJ setup so I didn't have 2 pay for alot of repairs such as all 4 brakes, rotors, tie rods, and a wheel bearing. But I can assume I'm getting closer to my expiration date for the other bearings. Living in Central Wisconsin where brand new brake rotors start oxidising and surface rusting 2 days after installation living close to a lake so yeah. I swear I should go to a psychologist for rust therapy... 😆
Great video. I have a similar bearing removal kit shown in the video. It works great, but I needed to buy a 28mm socket to fit nut. Make light work of changing a rear wheel bearing, without the need of a press. You really need to be distracted to miss the circlip replacement, but your advice is good. I have done a few wheel bearings of different types, as a DIY home mechanic.
I think my issue was totally being distracted. Thats shop life really. A constant stream of distractions. ITs why I put so much emphasis on being organized.
Humble mechanic, 10 years ago when I was looking for a car, I saw a 2009 VW Passat 2.0 T 6 speed manual and I felt in love. I still have that car but little problems keep on coming up. Still runs great though. To answer your question😄, “what’s the best way to fix your Volkswagen”. I wish I can say, getting rid of it. I just replaced all rotors all brakes pads and 3 bearings. Ow I think the left front is acting up, I hear a little clunking / subtle grinding. I think it’s the wheel bearing. Could it be cuz all the other 3 are brand new that I’m looking for perfection. I’m hesitating to replace it to save $273 Canadians dollars. It’s so call life time warranty on a OE PLUS wheel bearing. I have nothing to loose other than time if I do replace it. Any advise. Great videos by the way.
Luis, if you love the car and it seems you do then keep it forever lol. SOOO many cars and trucks I have had that I wish I never got rid of. So, I love that you love it, keep driving it and smile with every mile!!!
I have done many of these pressed in bearings over the years. It is always nice when the snap ring is on the outside because you don't need to remove the knuckle (as opposed to having the snap ring on the inside end) I have always used silicone spray to lube the bearing and the hub when pressing in. I also leave the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it helps things slide in nice and easy with the press tool.
25:10 I'm an appliance tech. My thought process is that the manf. made a kit for a reason. Case in point, I had an ECB kit that came with an electrical filter board. Even tho the filter (bench)tested ok, they were burning out the ECB's over time (an extremely tight frequency shift).
Always lube. In the old days, especially with OEM parts, came with a little packet of Molybdenum Disulfide paste. Even though not noted, I put Molybdenum Disulfide past on the hub and bearing, also. I put anti seize in the groove for the snap ring.
16:30 Serious question. Why do many mechanics use brake cleaner, instead of for example wd40 ? My reasoning being, everywhere the brake cleaner went without re-oiling the surface is prone to rust even better than before. Thanks for your clear video.
I have and love my Cornwell bolt and clip magnetic bowls. I got the lime green ones just like yours and funny enough, love slapping them on my lift at the shop just like that. I love your style Vdub man!👍
nice to see the snap ring come out so easly and have no rust.. i always have to mess around with those cause they are realy rusty have snapped a few too while trying to get em out..,they can be a pain :D i always use the old bearing to put the new one in since they are the same size
These repairs are pretty fun to watch. I don't have a modern VW (I have a '72 Beetle), but your commentary is pretty entertaining ("I said it that way because it's funny" 😄). Keep them coming, Charles.
You do realize Gen 1 Bunnies used a bunch of parts from the Beetle including 1 of the drive axles and the Beetles front wheel bearings on rear axles of the Rabbit
Living in Western NY and having to deal with rust. When replacing wheel bearings or hubs they get antiseeze. The splines on the half shaft get antiseeze also.
Seeing you shaking the wheels plus underneath the car some more problems lucky you mechanic personal has experience the sinery of cars I love watching this sort of stuff to learn from it
what a pain or process for tightening axle nut. For me how i was taught the 12 to 6 .. 12 to 6 looked at wheel bearing play, 3 to 9 looked at end link/tie rod play because of the angle. Did you learn it that way or hear about that? Great in depth and granular video!!!
I now have an (cheap unused) wheel bearing removal kit (I’m just a DIY mechanic ). Years ago, with my dad I used a combination of large sockets, centre punches, vice/bench, hammer/mallet and a lot of precision and patience. Took the hub off completely and had it on the bench. Literally basically tapping the bearing off (and in) gently in a circle/opposite way. We’re taking late 90’s cars, likely Fiesta/Metro/Golf Would that ‘caveman’ method work today on modern cars?
Many modern cars have bolted in wheel bearing module.. You can still hammer/press/cut them out ofc. Usually you need some press action though. I've done it with a threaded rod and some hole saws.
The moment you mentioned Metro, I thought UK based like myself. I have changed a few different types of wheel bearings - taper on the rear wheel of Mk1 Fiesta and Maestro, the type in the video on my Avensis Mk1 and the hub bearing on the rear of the Avensis and front of a Prius. Done other cars not mentioned. I have a 10 ton press and more recently the bearing removal kit, as seen in the video. I got my kit from eBay and it made light work doing a Micra wheel bearing. When doing this job, you have to consider the design of the hub and the wheel ABS sensor. Hub bearings though 'simple' bolt on jobs, can be seized due to galvanic corrosion, as I found out doing a friends Prius. I used a sledge hammer and another bit of heavy metal to whack the bearing from the hub. You need to be prepared.
The wheel on my wife’s beetle was just as bad as that one, thought for sure it was a bad bearing, bought everything I needed. Went to pull off the axle nut and realized it was very loose, tightened it up and wheel stopped moving, definitely double check axle nut before getting too far into it.
One of the best wheel bearing tutorials on TH-cam…thanks.
This is the only tutorial that is actually useful on youtube. You show all the steps, explain everything clearly. 10/10
Greetings from Sweden (in the rust belt)
VW owner here, your a great mechanic and teacher. I love when you mention past mistakes you've made or seen made before for reference. Also your humble humor makes for entertaining content.
Three cheers for Charles!
The tough part of giving instructions is not being informative but being logically clear while being informative. Well done and solute to you!
As a rust belt mechanic, I’m jealous of how easy that came apart, and how little clean up was necessary. Great information and tips as always Charles.
Hub goes off easily, a bit of hammering with a socket and that's it. By the other hand, the outer bearing race is harder to take out. I take out two of them in a three day span, and the first went off in two minutes, the second in fourthy minutes, because the bearing was much older. All done with a hammer, as my press lack of adapters and broke the first knuckle (it was from my car).
I have a lot of respect for you guys!!!! LIKE A LOT
In Florida, we just give the hub bolts a nasty look, and they apologize and back themselves out.
As someone who lives in Ohio I can relate to a good deal of time on of many jobs being cleaning up rust before reassembly....lol. I watch these guys outside the rust belt working on autos and yes, I am a bit envious.
I know one guy.....Eric O.......has a youtube channel and he is around New York.....so he has it even worse than us Ohioans. My poor ole 2001 Silverado was pretty well rust free when I got it in 2011 and now after 11 years of Ohio weather the cab corners, rockers and rear wheel wells on the bed are about gone....but the frame is still solid.......yes, the rust belt woes....lol.
I am from a hilly/wooded area (mid Europe) and here they also use much salt... you can also check Gerhard Holzknecht who specializes on rust removel and protection... a good protected and cared for car will also live through "rust belts"...my car is 25 yrs old (VW) had I protected it better it would have not much rust but I neclcected it for a while...
Last time I changed a wheel bearing it lasted for about 5 months. I like to think that it was manufacturer fault but deep down I know that I hammered it in like a caveman
Hahahha
Or overtightened the axle nut
Hahaha at least you can secretly own it. Rent the hand press next time!
Know what you mean. I just paid a mechanic to do the other side. Save me a lot of pain and aggravation.
😂
Been following you for years. It's good to see you more light hearted than you have been. Good to see you dumb it down some for the rest of us and hear the joy in your voice. Your winning.
Been seeing this telegram scam for awhile now. Group if us got together and started tracking them down. We just show up out of the blue. A parking lot, at a gas station or grocery store. Never see us coming and man does it hurt.
As a rust-belt mechanic for a VW/Audi shop, I used anti-seize on anything that didn't already call for a specific grease/threadlocker. I have never had the moly grease come with my bearings, so I always anti-seized the bearing in and anti-seized the hub into the bearing. We also did a lot of seasonal wheel swaps so we also anti-seized wheel hub faces and lug bolts to make sure our wheel swaps were effortless.
Same, as someone who lives in the rust belt, I pretty much put grease or anti-seize on anything that can safely have grease put on it.
Rust belt DIYer, everything I replace on my car gets Fluid Film'd or anti-seized if at all possible. Been Fluid Filming the underside of my car for years to delay the inevitable death-by-rust but it also keeps suspension bolts from rusting in place...mostly 🤣
I live in eastern Canada ( New Brunswick) where the winter temperatures go through big changes over a few hours. Rust is a big problem here. I use a lot of anti size when doing repairs and on hub face and lug nuts. I also carry a breaker bar in trunk. I don’t want any problems if I have to change a tire in minus 20 degrees.
@aidan6029 independent, but yes, plenty of those too
I do the same thing in Southern California. Even the wheel cleaners can cause severe corrosion to these parts and cause wheels to stick on the hubs. I never have issues removing wheels, hubs or components that I used antiseize paste on. I think it is a sign of professionalism and courtesy to the next guy that works on the car.
I have tons of respect for the skilled rust-belt mechanics, they are masters at what they do.
I really like that you address common mistakes and that you've made them yourself, I guess that's why you're the "humble" mechanic!
this is by far one of the best channels on the tubes of you... great info
Agreed 💯 % ! 🎯
Easiest hub removal I've ever seen. Because of that and the appearance of the inner most hub shaft surface, hub had to be loose in the inner bearing race. Plus the tone ring for ABS was damaged making replacement with a new hub the correct choice. The whole press in bearing job was the easiest I've ever seen done or done myself. I do on car using hub grappler by OTC. Easier set up and quicker due to less disassembly than using a shop press where set up is a real pain due to odd shapes of spindles. Plus saves having to do an alignment on some cars. Snap ring placed in hub is a good tip, I know that sick feeling you get when you look down and see the snap ring on the floor when you're torquing down the axle nut. ONLY HAPPENED ONCE, BUT IT LEFT A LASTING IMPRESSION. Thanks Charles.
MAN that feeling HAHA I felt it when I read your comment. I hate that it went so easy TBH. I prefer when its a pain for me, so people can gear up for somethign bad.
I remember replacing both front wheel bearings on my MK3 GTI VR6. I didn't have the ability to press them in, but VW Parts Place will sell you a refurbished carrier with the new bearings in place, and you return your carrier back for the core deposit. It worked out great.
I have more ability now, so I'd definitely just rent the tools I need and do the job. Back then, it was the furthest this home mechanic had ever dug into the front end of a car, so I'm glad that service exists.
Basic concept with bearings is never load through the balls/rollers. Always push against the outer race/housing or inner race/shaft and you're golden!
One more important thing, if the thing you're pressing in is putting pressure on the inner race, DONT support the outer race on the other side but the inner one otherwise you'll push the bearing apart
@@andries4561
Very good point !
I love the handy tips that are scattered throughout and the bonus Spanish lessons.
I like the 'in the moment' diagnosis these videos offer. Noticing the hub nut loose and confirming prior diagnosis is NEXT LEVEL! Keep it coming!!
I absolutely love this channel. One day I will start repairing my 02 Jetta VR6 wagon.
I wish this video exist when I did my wheel bearing. I went into it blind not knowing all of this. I tell you what I learned real quick. Sad to say I experience all of that LOL At least now I know. This IS A VERY INFORMED video on the wheel bearing replacement. This video will save you TONs on time and stress!
One year I did a wheel bearing right before leaving for H2Oi in OCMD from NJ which was about 250 miles each way. When I left town after the weekend I started to hear the humming and knew it was bad already. By the time I was 50 miles out from home I was truly worried I wouldn't even make it home because the sound had progressed so much. Luckily I did. I learned a valuable lesson that day. I had put a new bearing on the old hub, and I guess the tolerances had opened up. From that point on I will always do a bearing and hub together. Especially, as you pointed out, when the hub is 30 dollars.
Of all the mechanics I’ve seen on YT, you are my favorite. Thanks for taking the time to explain the finer points of the jobs you’re working on. Explaining that you need to use slightly different sizes when pulling and pressing in the bearing is the type of information that amateur mechanics need to know/learn.
Thank you so much
I also gotta say, the camera work is fantastic. Especially the inner camera
This is the best video on replacing this type of wheel bearing I have seen (and I have seen quite a few now)!
Thank you
Top notch explanation, lighting, and audio. Having watched many pressed in wheel bearing videos, I appreciate your discussion of option and variance. Love your snappy, entertaining clip format. I've never seen mechanics use a ring light, ha ha.
Man, I remember I once had a customer come in with a BMW E34 540i that had a failed wheel bearing, not only did the nut come off easily, the entire hub and wheel bearing slid right off, including the inner race. Fastest wheel bearing I've ever done, it was like 15 minutes start to finish. Sometimes life gives us a break.
LOL The flat rate gods do smile some times.
Hello from Geneva Switzerland, always very informative, like the patience You take to explain each little details as many others don't. Cheers Charles
Holy crap, never seen a hub just fall out! Guess your axle nut was really doing its job. In my experience, at least on Japanese cars, slide hammer is a go. The right snap ring plyers are great. I also prefer not to use power tools. The feel is important and a lot of wheel bearings have been damaged during install from off angle stress, usually with a press. Being in the NE, I like to add a layer of grease to the inside of the knuckle and/or outside of bearing. The snap ring holds it in place anyways, it will never move, but then it can't become seized with rust in the future. Light grease in the snap ring groove too. That's quite the axle nut torque procedure. Great work as always!
this whole job went so easy. I feel bad for people watching how to, and they have struggles. LOL its not fair.
That axle nut wouldn’t help anything.
@@jaredmayer3960 it might have been the last thing holding that wheel hub in from the looks of it.
@@HumbleMechanic don't feel too bad, because of top-notch videos like this I'm sure you'll be saving countless hours of frustration and headache. Thank you so much!
I love your videos, you repair ordinary street cars rather than fancy Ferrari or Porsche
Thank you so so so so much for putting out THE BEST mechanical how-to's on the PLANET! Every minute detail, every step of the job, nothing skipped, great knowledge and my favorite, super awesome camera work, multiple angles, always focused on exactly what you need to and plenty of light. I just can't thank you enough you are a huge help in keeping my aging Mark IV Volkswagen alive, seriously, saving me huge amounts of money on repair bills in the process! Keep doing what you're doing Humble Mechanic, you're a Saint!
I have always just replaced the whole hub assembly on my vehicles and this video made me realize that is still the best option.
Just want to tell you, thank you for the content. It was the video that helped me fix my situation. Explaining all the snags I had along the way along with the little details that matter the most tbh lol spoken in an easy to understand way. I appreciate you man. This was a saver.
Awesome. Glad to be able to help
Very complete explanation for all the steps taken including special tools. Most appreciated.
always bringing great videos with even greater explanation for us to gain a better understanding of what we are doing rather than just blindly following. Thank you Humble Mechanic! greetings to Paul from DAP - you guys are the BEST!
Best video for this job. Not that’s it’s complicated, but this is thoroughly explained. Very clear. High five ✋
thank you!!!
I love the fact that you tell us we are gunna fight it more than you did.
LOL I felt so bad it came apart so easy.
Chrisfix+humble mechanic=too powerful of a video
That front end was a ticking bomb. A lot of good info. and explanations.
i changed a rear wheel bearing on a transporter t5 yesterday, used a hydraulic press tool it makes the job sooooooo easy I really love those hydraulic press tools
The tip of simply marking the tooling with the socket or wrench size required, makes such good sense. Cheers 👍
I can't upvote this video enough.
HM, you literally saved your friends life. thank goodness he went to you in time
This guy he know exactly what he doing...👍... I have been doing this kind of job for yrs... this hub and bearing was a peace of cake... I had been done one, I have to take an cv axle out with it. And heat and hammer cv out.. lucky the customer understand it's was very bad, and happy to buy a new cv... 👍👍
I was a little surprised that the OTC Hub Tamer or Hub Tamer Elite wasn't used for this job. It makes all of these steps so much easier. It is the preferred tool for this job for 20+ years. There are even foreign copies of the tool.
Additionally, I use MIG welders and plasma cutters to remove bearing races. Nobody uses a Dremel, ick. Inductive bolt heaters or a heating tip on an Oxy-Acetylene torch are used. I do this work on the side, and these tools and tricks have been known in the industry since forever. We have to do the job correctly.
I had one fail on my mk2 golf and just replaced the entire assembly. It was easier. On a side note they say that people you admire are always shorter in real life...you did not disappoint! 😉 saw you at the Lòe show, but you were having a serious conversation with someone by the R32s...
Charles, this is another good helpful video. A perfect follow up video would be to demonstrate removal/installation of the rear wheel bearing assembly on the MKIV GTI, if that's necessary on the GTI in this video. Thanks for your great work.
Yep, I've forgot to install the snap ring and wasted a $80 bearing.. Great tip laying the snap ring in the new hub @11:44 !
LOL I feel like most of my life is a series of things I do to prevent me screwing something up again!! LOL
Great approach and tips! I'll be doing a 2006 Scion xB but this is a great tutorial that applies to many cars for the most important points.
Extraordinary detail ! Super camera shots !! Invaluable coaching cues !!! Tremendously helpful !!!! I learned lots !!!!! Thanks mate 👊🏼🔥 .
This is a truly terrific how-to Charles!
Great video as always and I appreciate the tips you mentioned. It was nice meeting you at the Loe Show last weekend.
Great series of tips! However, between 15:38 to 15:41 I see you added a washer under the nut through the magic of video editing! 20:14 grease added. Good save!
LOL, this is like instructions for my grandma to do the bearing change. Super detail for someone who never did it before. Nice, but could be also dangerous if people with very low amount of mechanical experience decide that this is easy enough and "I can do it". Nice video for sure, very detailed, one can show you really want to help. Very nice.
Great video. I was just told I need a new hub and bearing. Had NO IDEA. Now I do. THANK YOU.
You are the best bro. All the way from South Africa 🇿🇦
Living in Scotland, we have lots of rain and in winter, road salt so we get Rust, lots of rust. I always make sure to anti-seize/grease everything that needs it. That also includes mating faces. However I always clean any old grease off and scrub it all down with diesel or paraffin to make sure there's no old grease there. It's not good to mix greases for as it can melt them out . Just because I follow the manufacturers recommendations on type, doesn't mean the last person has.
Man, I wish you did this same repair on a 2009 Hyundai Sonata,lol. That’s what I’m dealing with. Awesome video man, very informative
Work as a tech in the rust belt, and just did my front end hub assemblies on both sides. I have that press tool and after about 30 minutes gave in and took the knuckle out and threw it on the hydraulic press
Ace detail with the camera work, Charles and great to see the job done, proper fashion! 👌🏻🙌🏼
I come from a rock out in the Atlantic ocean, unless it specifically calls for loctite we anti-seize the living crap out of every nut, bolt and assembly. Even then it's not enough sometimes. Cars with cheap flimsy subframes and control arms typically only last 5-8 years before they are fit for the scrapyard. Undercoating every year is a must. A chip in the paint has to be fixed immediately otherwise your body panel will rot off in a couple weeks. I live out west on the mainland now and rust is a non-issue. Makes my life so much easier lol
Crazy that you just put this video out lol. Just started having issues with my front passenger side wheel bearing on my 2012 mazdaspeed3. Looking forward to tackling it this fall
My car is a '08 Jetta City, same hub & bearing. Definitely lubed the bore as you did, got the new hubs being so cheap. Also lifted bearing seals to squirt more grease inside as factory lube was very sparse. One of the most tedious bearing jobs, but the most satisfying using the right tools. Good job!
My favorite way to fix a Volkswagen, is to grunt and hit it with a hammer... And then take it to DAPRepair and let the experts handle it.
Great video as always Charles! I haven't finished the video yet, but you always have great videos.
10/10 going to do this next time! LOL
Invaluable content! Late comment so this probably won't be seen by many BUT regarding working with snap rings: it's good practice to always have your free hand (preferably wearing some kind of mechanics glove) cupped over the ring while it's under tension in the pliers. If those teeth slip, the ring will be shot into outer space, and or your face!
100% GREAT ADVICE!!!
Thank you for such a clear and concise video. Just did this on my 02 mk4 and my wheel bearing was split just like this one. you couldnt have made it easier, thanks again!
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
You gotta strip the whole door. It’s way more work but it’s the right way to do it…
At 15:00 I prefer using the wheel bearing cup ( p/n 955-07) on the opposite side, so facing the inner race bearing. This speeds up the alignement of the tool on the bearing before applying full torque to unseat the used bearing. Same thing at 22:53 you have it on the wrong side. And you don't want to thread the nut starting on the empty thread side because this causes stress on the tool by not having all the nut threads fully engaged.
Thank you for explaining how the bearing removal tool works.
Hahah Charles! My favorite way to fix a Volkswagen:
Buy a Porsche!
When you do that, you're not straying too far. I've had a '77 Rabbit, an '80 Jetta two door, an '85 Scirocco Turbo, a '92 Corrado SLC, and a '97 Jetta GLX. My Volkswagens were always tons of fun but they involve compromises; My Porsche's have not.
GREAT video!
Except the cost of P parts $$$
SPICY VWs.... with a spicy pricy HAHAHA Ill see myself out.
@@HumbleMechanic You're the best!
@25:52 When you install that Caliper w/Brake Bracket did you apply any Threadlocker on those mounting bolts? I put a Blue Thread Locker on that job like a 1.5 years ago, everything was good, no problems w/breaks. I see in many films people use Blue TL on those attaching Brake Bracket-to- Knuckle bolts. But now I did smth else on suspension and needed to remove the Brake Bracket again. When I looked to double check the torque and everything in Shop Manual for our 2001 Saturn SL2 (I have one), they say there to apply Heat 272 Loctite or equivalent. And if you don't have that Red Loctite, you need to replace the attaching bolts. Of course it is advice for a shop w/unlimited access for the bolts of that type and everything, and they are very precise (supposed to be of course). But why everyone applied Blue, as Shop Manual says Red? That what puzzled me. This is full Saturn Shop Manual 2000-2001 S-series, very detailed, 3 huge volumes (4-5 different books inside of each volume, put together w/binder), thin strong paper like papyrus. I'm confused on all that. If I apply Red TL, will I be able to brake those nuts w/huge breaker bar, or heat would be needed? It is not a problem to apply heat of course, but there are CV Axle Boots there close by, I even don't know. And again, everyone applies Blue: The Mech a nic, Chris Fix, many others. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
I have a jetta with 615K miles on it. I have had them come loose like you noticed with this one. I have since started leaving them highly torqued instead of backing them off and retorquing. Also if you take the one strut bolt out you can pull the entire hub out and work on it easier on the floor.
Love this! Your a good mechanic Charles. Great video!
My 04' Passat 1.8T 5 speed Wagon once again thanks you. Fortunately when I first got the ride my mechanic wanted my DJ setup so I didn't have 2 pay for alot of repairs such as all 4 brakes, rotors, tie rods, and a wheel bearing. But I can assume I'm getting closer to my expiration date for the other bearings. Living in Central Wisconsin where brand new brake rotors start oxidising and surface rusting 2 days after installation living close to a lake so yeah. I swear I should go to a psychologist for rust therapy... 😆
Great video. I have a similar bearing removal kit shown in the video. It works great, but I needed to buy a 28mm socket to fit nut. Make light work of changing a rear wheel bearing, without the need of a press. You really need to be distracted to miss the circlip replacement, but your advice is good. I have done a few wheel bearings of different types, as a DIY home mechanic.
Did you buy it of AliExpress for 45$?
I think my issue was totally being distracted. Thats shop life really. A constant stream of distractions. ITs why I put so much emphasis on being organized.
Humble mechanic, 10 years ago when I was looking for a car, I saw a 2009 VW Passat 2.0 T 6 speed manual and I felt in love. I still have that car but little problems keep on coming up. Still runs great though.
To answer your question😄, “what’s the best way to fix your Volkswagen”. I wish I can say, getting rid of it. I just replaced all rotors all brakes pads and 3 bearings. Ow I think the left front is acting up, I hear a little clunking / subtle grinding. I think it’s the wheel bearing. Could it be cuz all the other 3 are brand new that I’m looking for perfection. I’m hesitating to replace it to save $273 Canadians dollars. It’s so call life time warranty on a OE PLUS wheel bearing. I have nothing to loose other than time if I do replace it. Any advise. Great videos by the way.
Luis, if you love the car and it seems you do then keep it forever lol. SOOO many cars and trucks I have had that I wish I never got rid of. So, I love that you love it, keep driving it and smile with every mile!!!
Looks so clean underneath. My passat b5.5 is all covered in dust and rust. Its pain in rear to get any screw and nut loose.
Excellent detail of fixing wheel bearing thank you very much
I have done many of these pressed in bearings over the years. It is always nice when the snap ring is on the outside because you don't need to remove the knuckle (as opposed to having the snap ring on the inside end)
I have always used silicone spray to lube the bearing and the hub when pressing in. I also leave the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it helps things slide in nice and easy with the press tool.
Good job thank you im from France i keep my mk4 alive please make more video for the mk4 👍👍👍👍
At 1:19 my fave way is to: send it to someone else to fix
25:10 I'm an appliance tech. My thought process is that the manf. made a kit for a reason. Case in point, I had an ECB kit that came with an electrical filter board. Even tho the filter (bench)tested ok, they were burning out the ECB's over time (an extremely tight frequency shift).
Always lube. In the old days, especially with OEM parts, came with a little packet of Molybdenum Disulfide paste. Even though not noted, I put Molybdenum Disulfide past on the hub and bearing, also. I put anti seize in the groove for the snap ring.
Thanks, Charles, for this amazing demonstration of Volkswagen's new Quick Release Wheel (Hub).
Das Auto.
Back in days we just use the old bearing to push the new one in by hummer lol thank you it's a good video.
16:30 Serious question. Why do many mechanics use brake cleaner, instead of for example wd40 ? My reasoning being, everywhere the brake cleaner went without re-oiling the surface is prone to rust even better than before. Thanks for your clear video.
Amazing explanation. I've been learning a lot from u but this video is really good with details. Actually the best!!
My favourite way to fix it is through your channel ❤
I have and love my Cornwell bolt and clip magnetic bowls. I got the lime green ones just like yours and funny enough, love slapping them on my lift at the shop just like that. I love your style Vdub man!👍
nice to see the snap ring come out so easly and have no rust..
i always have to mess around with those cause they are realy rusty have snapped a few too while trying to get em out..,they can be a pain :D
i always use the old bearing to put the new one in since they are the same size
These repairs are pretty fun to watch. I don't have a modern VW (I have a '72 Beetle), but your commentary is pretty entertaining ("I said it that way because it's funny" 😄). Keep them coming, Charles.
You do realize Gen 1 Bunnies used a bunch of parts from the Beetle including 1 of the drive axles and the Beetles front wheel bearings on rear axles of the Rabbit
Living in Western NY and having to deal with rust. When replacing wheel bearings or hubs they get antiseeze.
The splines on the half shaft get antiseeze also.
Seeing you shaking the wheels plus underneath the car some more problems lucky you mechanic personal has experience the sinery of cars I love watching this sort of stuff to learn from it
Never seen a hub come apart that easy before and I’ve had a few apart in my time 🔧🔧
Bloody great video, I'm about to do my Opel front bearings and this has been invaluable info for me..
I like the zooming in on the hole lubing… adds a nice je ne sais quois…
ALWAYS LOL
Earthmoving Apprentice here best educational Vid👍
what a pain or process for tightening axle nut. For me how i was taught the 12 to 6 .. 12 to 6 looked at wheel bearing play, 3 to 9 looked at end link/tie rod play because of the angle. Did you learn it that way or hear about that? Great in depth and granular video!!!
My favorite way to fix most Vws are to sell them. Love the vids❤
Ive 100% done that too.
The rust prevention of the lube is definitely worth it
yeah when you live in the rustbelt you need every help you can get :P
12:00 - hole saws work good for pressing the bearing out/in.
I now have an (cheap unused) wheel bearing removal kit (I’m just a DIY mechanic ). Years ago, with my dad I used a combination of large sockets, centre punches, vice/bench, hammer/mallet and a lot of precision and patience. Took the hub off completely and had it on the bench. Literally basically tapping the bearing off (and in) gently in a circle/opposite way. We’re taking late 90’s cars, likely Fiesta/Metro/Golf Would that ‘caveman’ method work today on modern cars?
Many modern cars have bolted in wheel bearing module.. You can still hammer/press/cut them out ofc. Usually you need some press action though. I've done it with a threaded rod and some hole saws.
The moment you mentioned Metro, I thought UK based like myself. I have changed a few different types of wheel bearings - taper on the rear wheel of Mk1 Fiesta and Maestro, the type in the video on my Avensis Mk1 and the hub bearing on the rear of the Avensis and front of a Prius. Done other cars not mentioned. I have a 10 ton press and more recently the bearing removal kit, as seen in the video. I got my kit from eBay and it made light work doing a Micra wheel bearing. When doing this job, you have to consider the design of the hub and the wheel ABS sensor. Hub bearings though 'simple' bolt on jobs, can be seized due to galvanic corrosion, as I found out doing a friends Prius. I used a sledge hammer and another bit of heavy metal to whack the bearing from the hub. You need to be prepared.
Very nice video Charles!!! 👍
The wheel on my wife’s beetle was just as bad as that one, thought for sure it was a bad bearing, bought everything I needed. Went to pull off the axle nut and realized it was very loose, tightened it up and wheel stopped moving, definitely double check axle nut before getting too far into it.