Ford EEC-IV Ignition Misfire - description, operation, testing part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
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www.scannerdan... This is one that will burn you if you have never seen it before. The first time I saw this problem was at one of the garages I troubleshoot for, long before I started video taping everything. I actually posted the images on iATN, I think maybe 2004? They are still there under my image library if you guy want to look them up. Exact same pattern on the PIP signal as you will see in this video. The garage had already replaced the distributor and just about everything else. With much difficulty, I mistakenly replaced the engine computer! And of course I didn't fix it. It is always difficult when you get a bad new part. Anyway, I know you guys will enjoy this two part series. It certainly brought me back to memory lane.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 22
Symptoms
- #2 cylinder misfire
- intermittent misfiring from other cylinders
- run okay at WOT and idle
- no misfiring with Spout connector unplugged
Fix
- replace faulty distributor pick-up assembly
Tests shown
- how to verify weak spark with an in-line spark tester
- how to test the PIP and SPOUT signals with a lab scope
- how to test coil primary current to verify a dwell time problem
Tools used
- lab scope
- inductive low amp probe
- in-line spark tester
Playlist
- Chapter 22 No start No Spark
• Chapter 22 No start No...
Related videos
- ScannerDanner gets his butt kicked by an '88 F-150 (EEC-IV Ignition)
• 1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV ...
- It's back! But is it the same problem? (1988 F-150)
• 1988 F150 Hesitation P...
- Section 22 No Start, No Spark Diagnosis (Part 2)
• Video
This channel is dedicated to training both the do it yourself mechanic and the professional technician. It does not matter your level of experience, I can teach you to troubleshoot electrical and electronic systems of both cars and trucks, gasoline and diesel. The information I cover is focused on universal concepts, that apply to all systems, in all model years. It is even applicable to other non automotive related systems.
Some basic electrical knowledge is helpful but not necessary.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
Great Paul. I needed this. I not to long ago worked on one of these, and I have to review my information stack for this vehicle. Now I can just review your lesson video. Thanks again Paul.
I was just going to watch the latest game of thrones, then I had an email saying Mr Danner had uploaded a video, game of thrones can wait !
Nice one Paul. Your experience has not been lost on this student.
Wow, I would have condemned the computer for sure! Also funny how it is mostly number 2 that is effected, rather than random cylinders
I have heard of the distributor shafts becoming magnetized effecting the hall effect signal and back when this system was more common you may have to go through a few reman units to get a good one. That may have been the case you ran into years ago that caused you grief because it looked like it had been previously replaced.
I have also heard of that back in the day and I would not rule that out
Really appreciate your use of the Vantage. Showing the buttons and the buffer and movie was great. I remember u saying this system was very similar to the GM. The crank sensor is a vrs sensor. Could we look at the signal when the old distributor is out of the car? Maybe the shaft is bent or their is an anomaly in that signal. It can't be the module or the computer. Isn't air gap important to get the right amount of, what's the word that describes the voltage swing? Thanks for the extra attention we premium boys (and girls) get. Amplitude I think is the word.
GREAT VIDEO Paul!
Scanner danner greatest hits for me, because I have a misfire eec-iv same engine that’s in this video, that ends up in a crank no start, I suspect the pick up coil in the distributor is bad but need to confirm before I condemn the distributor!
I might have caused it when I got rid of two connectors in the fuel pump circuit and soldered the wires the wrong way that might have damaged the pick up coil, I also lost the power to three of the gauges in instrument cluster after this repair…..amateur night! 🤪
I’m getting a two channel scope today so I can see the Hall effects sine wave and verify if there’s an issue!
Paul, Is it possible for you to post part two on your TH-cam channel???
Leor
Nice detailed explanation as always Paul.
thanks man
@@ScannerDannerPremium I'm a big Ford guy that specializes on Panthers. I got a 95 Town Car with a 2004 Interceptor that likes to randomly surge idle only in gear. Once you got to park, its fine. The original PCM was doing it all the time no matter what gear/park it was in. Replacing the PCM has helped a lot, but hasn't fixed the issue. I'm leaning towards the driver for the IAC. Any clue where I can get a schematic on the PCM for this vehicle? Appreciate any feedback.
@@kitt199546 Here is a link for the DIY version of the service info I use. It will be the same diagrams too only in black and white, which is not a problem. As far as an idle surge in park only. The first thing I would want to see i the function of the park/neutral switch. Ford calls it a manual level position sensor. I have seen idle surging being caused by this range switch showing that it is in gear, when in park (opposite of your complaint but I'd still want to see this data PID). Just curious, how does it idle in neutral? Second, focus on your TPS, I have seen many, many Ford's in this era that have TPS glitches that occur near the closed throttle position that cause idle surging issues.
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Very good video Paul thank you for it. The vantage pro is still a relevant tool and will be for a long time (IMHO)
I agree. I use my vantage pro at work all the time. I still have and use the original vantage sometimes.
+Michael Herbert Good morning Michael. I am learning to use the Vantage Pro, and so far I love it. A friend of mine had an old Vantage and he gave it to me. I think he left the battery's in it too long and they messed it up. He has another one. Hopefully, he will will give me that to me too. As a gas, I have asked a friend to give it to the Snap On tool guy.. We will c what happens. I watch Paul and his brother use the old Vantage all the time as a quick go to, and an extra to watch another circuit while using another tool. Thanx
Thank you for that video. I want to try and connect my snapon modus. What else do I need besides the low amp clamp? I’ve been wanting to do this to my 88 bronco 5.0 that has a similar condition. I never used the old sun machines but I would watch the old timers back in the day. That big thing has been long gone.
Mine has the same symptoms but is worse with the spout discounted. It stumbles like crazy
So correct me if I am wrong, but this is a case of classic "garbage in garbage out?"
Meaning the crank signal is sending a bad signal to the computer and it is trying to adjust the dwell and timing based on this bad signal???
That waveform got me baffled ! Why is the PIP clipped on the rising edge right where the coil discharges?
Don't know the internal logics here brother but I do talk about it in this series.
One more question. At 16 I c the trigger in the lower left of the screen. Why isn't the waveform lining up with the trigger?
Or bad connection or ground comming from computer.i pushed up on my computer from inside and held.ran fine.let go of pressure.conked out
Dude watch all your videos... loveem... got a 93 f350 with a 460... tach drops and engine runs like crap. changed coil it took a while for it to bring the tach back then it ran good for about a month. all of a sudden the issus reappeared same symptoms. replaced coil again worked for about 10 mins and crapped out again. no tach runs like low fuel pressure. 60 lbs of pressure please help
sorry man, I don't check these messages on this channel very often anymore (since TH-cam closed the paid channels). For future help, post your questions to my forum okay? It is free to join. Hope to see you there
www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html
Well buddy, new injectors, intake gaskets, timing adjustment, and the engine running condition degraded to the point I am certain my ECU is bad, drives fine, just don't stop, it wont idle, the ECU is a special one that is so rare it cost 3 to 4 times what every other one for the year van, its just not worth $600 more just to see if the damn thing will run right, this is why I prefer a carburetor. Radiator broke, transmission burnt up, C-6, not computer controlled, alternator burnt up, ate the brushes down to the wires, regulator corroded till the pins broke off, distributor was busted where the hold down screw was, more money has been spent on repairs than the van cost, and it is not street able still, no one wants to work on it that has the equipment to hook to it, they prefer OBDII. The fact capacitors leak out and destroy the circuit board is good reason to stick with carburetors, avoid this electronic mess.
I watched 1 minute of this video I had to comment and guess what it is. It's got to be a bad distributor or the wrong distributor just by the way it's described. If not I'll find out and comment in part 2. In my town there are a lot of customers with these Fords with the 4.9's and the 5.8's and the 7.5's. The parts can be a headache often so I'm guessing distributor problem.
good guess my friend
I need help. Have same issue. Except the who distributor has been changed... if I disconnect the spout, it dies or runs rougher
Mine does the same thing
I HAD A F150 THAT WOULDN'T START UNLESS THE SPOUT WAS REMOVED.
10:53 hahaha on the background
I disconnected the spout and the engine died
please help lol
post this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html
IT is free to join, we can help you for sure