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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2024
- Matthew takes you through a full diagnostic suite on a 1993 Mustang GT. Topics include how to use the scan tool, Key On Engine Off tests, Key On Engine Running Tests, and how to initiate and interpret the Cylinder Balance Test which can tell you whether you have a bad cylinder, and if so, which one.
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I do my "cylinder balance test" while I am cranking the engine with the starter, and the coil wire off..
You'll hear a distinct "skip" while an engine is cranking if it has a cylinder with low compression.
If the engine sounds good while cranking, but then has a noticeable miss while it's running, then it's something simple such as a bad plug/wire, bad fuel injector, or something else easy to repair.
That’s a legitimate diagnostic even on a carb equipped car. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Great Video Ted!!
Thanks from Tacoma WA!
Thanks for watching!
😂😂😂.... Well, I have this OBD1 tester...But...I have been living Blissfully Ignorant since I bought my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck with 143,000 miles on the clock presently , about 2 yrs ago... What started out as Standard maintenance and repair of the truck, since the last owner really didn't do any repairs and maintenance, is turning into a almost "Restoration "... I am replacing alota 30 yrs old parts that should've been replaced yrs ago.... Soo, by reading the codes, that would add even more to that list...Sooo, for me and now, I don't wanna know...😂😂😂😂...
Nice! I have the same scan tool! Found a bad coolant temperature sensor on my 92! Gotta love old school scan tools...worked like a charm! Great video Matt!!!
I'm surprised how many guys I see trying to diagnose problems with their Fox that don't even go as far as pulling codes, but I would be willing to bet that MOST of the guys who do pull the codes don't know that you can activate the cylinder balance test that is built in to the EEC-IV and find a dead or low contributing cylinder. It's such a powerful test when it comes to determining overall engine health or narrowing problems down to a particular cylinder!
Thanks Matt! I also have the same tester, it’s old like me and it still works fine haha! This video was an excellent review and very helpful 👍👍
Another great tech video from Tecmotion. I learned a lot of new hems today👍👍👍
Thanks for the great feedback!
This test is not hidden at all if you have an older OBD-1 mechanic-grade scanner. It just pops up as one of the options in my old OTC. Been doing it for MANY years ;)
Of course, and it isn’t supposed to be a secret, but I would wager that your average enthusiast watching this didn’t know about it, and that even when these cars were contemporary it wasn’t well known amongst owners.
@@tecmotiondyno I hear ya. Pure dumb luck that I stumbled on it to be honest.
one of the best investments i ever made was to buy a used snap-on mt2500 back when ebay was flooded with them, i got the scanner and the ford, gm and other obd1 cartridges for $100, best 100 i ever spent.....
Good score.
This is great stuff. Thanks 👍
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
I have an 84 Lincoln that does not have a check engine light at all. But you can use a test light on the connector.
Good feedback!
Interesting. I’ve got the same scan tool. Just got a clean bill of health on mine too. 9 beeps. Had 1 code with key on, engine off and 1 code with engine running. A trans oil temp and trans solenoid circuit. My car OEM had an automatic trans and someone went thru the headache of converting it to a T5 manual long before I got it 4 years ago. It’s always had those and I’ve always believed it was because of the manual trans swap. I was looking thru the manual for the diag tool and the cylinder test is actually in there and I never even knew it lol.
The cylinder balance test is documented but people don’t read the manual and some of those that do don’t recognize the power of this test! Sometimes you get codes on a modified car that just don’t apply.
Excellent videos !! Your how to vids are so helpful! I have recently followed along to your how to vids on the Power bond sfi balancer and radiator replacement on my 88 5.0 lx convertible. I just picked up the obd1 scanner from a local parts store and performed the key off test. Extremely simple and i only got one code which was a code 67 neutral switch which makes sense because i just completed a AOD to T5 swap on my car and the neutral safety switch is unhooked on the t5. I do want to try a engine running test and the cylinder test. I want to tackle the rear end gear install and get rid of my 273 gears for the 355 gears but i think after watching your video it might be out of my skill set. Could you do a video in the future on how to remove the foxbody 8.8 rear end out the car. I would like to remove my rear end and take to a shop to have the gears and rear end re built!! thanks alot!!!!!!!! best foxbody how to on youtube.
Thanks for your supportive comments. If I get a rear end removal job I will film it, but if your objective is just to do the gear change and you are hiring someone to do it, it will be simpler and less costly to do it in the car. If you are changing everything - control arms, shocks, weld on housing ends etc, and you more or less have to remove the housing anyway, it makes sense to do the gear swap with the housing out of the car and on jackstands, otherwise I think you are just making extra work. I usually book three days with the car for a gear swap because of interruptions and contingency, and the only step I usually do on the third day is to put the fluid in it because I prefer to let the rtv cure overnight. In bigger shops where the mechanic can just work on the car and doesn’t have to answer the phone and deal with walk in’s and all of the other little daily distractions, an 8 hour day is usually enough for the job, so you don’t generally have to give your car up for an extended period of time to get the gears changed.
@@tecmotiondyno thank you so much!! 🙏biggest reason why I wanted to pull the rear out and take it to a shop was because I hate leaving my car at places unattended. Figured it be easier to take rear out car take the new parts and whole axle to a shop and say call me when it's done. I see what you are saying though! Thanks
😊 thanks
You are welcome. I hope it helped out!
dang they look sharp with clear headlights. Mine are fricken oxidized from sitting in the sun too much.
There are headlight restoration kits, but I have never used them. LMR sells new lights for reasonable money. I have used them in the past and they can make a real difference in how the car looks.
how does this test work on a 4.9 as the injectors are wired to fire others at same time. I have a 88f150 with 4.9 that had to redo upper harness and discovered in testing this harness that it fires them in pairs at same time. never would have known about it otherwise. thanks
There are also 5.0 Ford setups that are batch fire. I have never personally tried the cylinder balance test on one of them.
I Sir, I love the content here.. 90 Fox. I get a a thermactor code for KOEO. no worries, but for the KOER it's dead. No 4 flashs , just dead. Any idea of the issue? Car runs grate, but rich on idle. Thank you
I have seen them unable to test where the sig return line is blown on the PCM, but that should prevent the KOEO test as well. With the older style tester, you do need to start the car, then switch the tester from HOLD to TEST in order to initiate the KOER test, just in case you accidentally missed that step. Sometimes these weird problems are very hard to diagnose in person, never mind over the internet! Thanks for watching.
Got 1986 4 eye gt all stock seat over a decade found in salvage yard. Running very rich checked fuel pressure 39 psi replaced map sensor. Could be bad injector or harness.
Could be, or a computer fault. Could be oxygen sensors too. Try the cylinder balance test to see if the problem is limited to one or two cylinders.
Bad temperature sending unit.?
i didnt know that rev up was a balance test, i wonder how i get the results on my obd2 eec-iv au falcon, ive been using forscan and an elm327 wifi
On a professional OBD2 tool, a similar test can usually be found under engine functional tests, and should be called something like Cylinder Balance or Power Balance. I can't speak to your specific application, but that is where to look.
any idea what to do if your getting No power to the scanner plug? and my fule pump doesnt shut off, when key is on pump in always running. did the swap from 4cly to V8 and having some problems on my 87 coupe. any ideas ? Thanks
The first thing that I would be looking at is a bad pcm or blown sig rtn trace on the pcm caused by an incorrect loop back on the o2 sensor harness. Fuel pump running constantly is a typical symptom of a bad pcm or corrupted chip on the pcm.
@@tecmotiondyno thank you !
No big deal. The only thing you lose is the 1-2 second prime cutoff at startup. I prefer constant run, and wired mine direct instead of through the computer. It's been fine for 28 years as is.
The EEC-IV was a hell of a lot more advanced than the GM CCC or the power/logic module garbage Chrysler was running at the time.
I totally agree with you on this.
My 1991 bronco 5.8 has the eec-IV computer which i have a newer innova OBD1 code reader than yours, mine is with the digital reader screen. I know my bronco is batch fired with 4 injectors firing at the same time and then the other 4 injectors firing. I believe the four outer ones is one batch and the four inner injectors is the other batch. Im not sure if the cylinder balance test works on my bronco. Do you happen to know if i can preform this test on the bronco like you demonstrated on the 93 mustang?
That's a good question and I am not actually sure about the answer off the top of my head. It doesn't hurt to try it, and if it is reconfigured to cut the ignition then it might work. If you try to initiate it, and you hear the engine speed up and slow down repeatedly, and it gives you the correct codes, then you will know it worked. It's probably more work for me to research it than for you to just give it a try since you already have the code reader!
@@tecmotiondyno got it I just replaced my motor from a 91 to a 94. My 91 head low compression but if I woulda known that before hand I would have tried it. I was doing some research and there's definitely a difference between sefi and mfi so I'm not sure which one I have cuz it's all new territory to me. What is definitely a trick that I'll keep in back of my mind and I did find it in the menu of the code reader
@@Z71Garage I filmed compression and leakdown test videos a while ago, but they are still in the "to edit" list. Good luck with your project!
Does anyone know where I can purchase the audible, scan tool? I like the idea of being able to hear the beeps.
This used to be the version you bought, but mine was made when the Fox Mustang was contemporary. Innova 3145 is the modern day successor and should have all the same capabilities but displays the codes on an LCD. You might pick up an old one on eBay.
Hey, do you have the model number of yours, I can’t see the screen on the a nova one.
@@Olds_Pwr thank you
@@Olds_Pwr just found one on eBay
Mine was $7 on clearance 20 yrs ago when they became digital.
Will all of these tests work the same on an 89 e250?
Yes, most OBDI Fords have these tests. Some codes have unique meanings on trucks though, so pay attention to the notations on the code list.
Where do I get the tester? I'm in the US
Search for ford obd1 on Amazon. There is an updated version on there for sure. I would guess that you can pick it up at lots of parts stores too. NAPA, O’Reilly, maybe Harbor Freight. When I looked on Amazon Canada it was a ready to ship item.
Doesn't the cylinder balance tests also include ignition as well as injectors? 🙄
No, it is an injector cut only.