Installing New Headers and Exhaust
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- It's time to update the full exhaust on my 1966 Fastback! I went with Shortys this round and the fitment was fantastic! The new Flowmaster mufflers sound amazing and I pumped to go drive this car soon.
Headers - JBA 1650S amzn.to/3Bd6jtr
H-Pipe - JBA 1650SH amzn.to/3OAyDc9
Mufflers - Flowmaster 40 Series #42541 amzn.to/3PDptx0
V-Band Clamps - generic brand, 2-1/2" size, qty 2 amzn.to/3vg0QxY
Rest of the exhaust tubing - done at muffler shop
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and C4 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicso...
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#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback
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Excellent advice on warming up the engine to prevent broken bolts! Anything this old is always a guessing game if the bolts are going to be trouble or not.
Thanks! I'm glad it was easy, because I didn't want to get out the cutting torch! :)
Yeah, that was a great call.
Good to hear the shorties worked out, got some packed away for my 70 coupe when I get the motor in this year 👍🇦🇺
Nice 👍
The progress your making is inspiring! I'm telling you our cars are on the same project paths! I'm also gonna go with JBA headers and exhaust. I'm going yo use their tri-y's and full gt style exhaust system
I was very pleased with how the JBA headers fit, considering all the stories we hear about header fitment in the 65-66 cars. :)
Great setup and video. You're braver than I am with the snow. Mine hasn't left the garage in four months now.
It hadn't snowed in a month and the only day I had available (without taking an extra day off work) was the one day it snowed. And like I mentioned in the video, it was fine when I left the house, but it go bad real quick. Almost all the snow was gone in town by the time I picked up the car that afternoon, and you can see in the video there was nothing on the ground at my place when I got home that same day. I wish "braver" was the way to describe driving in the snow, but at least they don't salt the roads here. :)
13:45 the sound everyone was waiting for.
At the muffle shop the guy fired it up and backed it out, it was awesome hearing it for the first time. :)
Hi Andy, thank you for your new video.
No worries :)
The 1650 series stuff is good. I got the same headers and H-pipe you did, with glasspacks coming out the sides. Sounds awesome and the fit is hard to complain about; no leaks and no gaskets required
I was debating about side pipe, but since I already had those cutouts in the rear valence, I figured it would look weird without the exhaust pipes coming through them. :)
I like your set up. I’m also gonna be using JBA shorties on a 67 Mustang I’m building for my wife. I also have the same muffler you have. I do all my welding so I’ll be installing the entire system myself but if I need to go to a muffler shop I’m gonna drive it with just the H-pipe on. It’ll be an excuse to drive it with open header and see how loud it is. Nice build Andy. 👍🏼
Yeah, these Shorties are a great option for mild builds, and they fit really good too. :)
Thank you for sharing this, looking to do this down the road. System really tucks up in there thank you again
Glad it was helpful!
super cool. I wa relaly hoping for a sneak peak on some cutouts for next video hehe.
Can't give it all away. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel YEAH!!!!.🤣
Very nice upgrade!
I had Doug's tri-y exhaust headers put on my '68. Pretty pricey, but totally worth it over the stock manifolds.
Doug's are a great set of headers, they're still on my list if I ever decide to change things up. :)
Such a badass mustang
Thanks!!
Great content man. I love those 40 series flowmasters, that’s what I have on my 76 ford truck and I’m going to eventually install on my 68 fairlane.
Right on!
I'm getting ready to do this very thing in my 76 camaro.
It is a mess, but replacing with shorty headers will be a good thing. Great video, and yea it sounds great!
Right on, thanks!
@@AndyKruseChannel Absolutely!
Great content.. Great video, sound and editing. Drive on Brother...
Thanks! Will do!
Ground clearance is fantastic!! The shop did a very nice job on the rest of the install. I wonder how those headers would work with factory Z-bar and a T.L.? Kudos for a great job on the video and providing all the part numbers. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
The primary tubes meet at the collector right about where the Z-bar would be connected to the block, so it's hard to tell if that bar would work. The next time I'm under there I'll take a look. I'd like to do a follow up video where I report on how some of these parts are doing and maybe I could slip a comment in there about parts like the Z-bar working with these headers. :)
We. Went with the same headers but with Shelby 2.5 inch side pipes with an h pipe and let me tell you it’s one of the best sounding 289s
I wanted to do side pipes, but I don’t know if it’s worth making all my neighbors upset. 🙂
Great video can’t wait to upgrade my 68.
Thanks, you should!
Such a beautiful Mustang ❤🔥❤🔥
Thanks!
So disappointed Andy......sigh.... you didn't start the car with JUST the headers on.
It does sound sooooo good!!
Next time?
@@AndyKruseChannel a frame up restoration?
Hooray!
Haha, thanks! :)
Great video! I know it’s a different car, but would you think those headers would clear 64 Fairlane shock towers? (Similar suspension to early Mustang).
That's tough to say, I know those engine bays in the Falcon and Fairlines are really tight. :)
Nice Stang ❤👍
Thanks!
JBA made a change to the way the tubes are bent for 1/2 and 5/6 such that I would say the headers no longer fit for a 65/66 application. After ordering a pair only to find I will likely be immediately returning them I am pissed
That’s not great to hear. I wonder if it’s just a wild part? It’s difficult to see how those bends would be changed so much to make an issue. I’d say the drivers side is a tight fit and any change in bends may cause an issue. The passenger side should just fall in. Hopefully they’ll be able to take care of you, I’d be frustrated too. 🙁
You don't need a gasket at the end of the heads where the H pipe hooks up?
No, because it’s a ball-and-socket style connection which is an alternative to flat-flange connections where a gasket would be needed. 🙂
Thank you, enjoy your channel
P.S. Your videos are EXCELLENT!
Glad you like them!
I'm gonna be installing headers in the near future, I have 2 questions: So the muffler shop takes apart the exhaust and does all the welding to add the new mufflers after which they reinstall everything right? How much ( ball park) does the muffler shop charge?
My muffler shop installed the mufflers to some new piping (they supplied) that connected them to the H-Pipe, and they made new pipes (they supplied) going out the back of the mufflers, up over the axle, then out the back valence of my car. All that labor and the piping they supplied for the car was $682. It's possible that if you were in a larger city, the price may be a little cheaper purely for competition. If your shop is able to reuse anything already on your car, that may help you with the price.
After I installed the Panhard bar, I had to have my shop remake the pipes that come out the back of the muffler and go over the axle since the pipes they made earlier were in the way of the new bar. Having them remake those pipes was $218.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks
I bought this exact setup. Did you buy exhaust flange gaskets for between the header and the h pipe?
No, they’re that ball-n-cup style (not sure what they’re called) so they don’t need a gasket.
Nice video, as always. Did I see 02 sensor provisions in that H-Pipe?
Thanks!
Yes, it comes that way, but I like that it's there in case I ever do EFI. :)
Just looked at a set of wheels exactly like yours however offset wouldn't allow without body mods and dont care to do that want exactly like yours can you give me the specs please
American Racing Torque Thrust, 16x7, 5x4.5 bolt, 4 inch backspacing, part number VN2156765
Falken Azenis Tires, RT615K+, 225/60/16, all four.
I modified fenders (front and rear) to ensure the tires did not rub. I did not have to do much, but I had to do a little bit. :)
Dang, sounds and looks so good! How much did it cost overall? Love how the car blended into the snow 😀.
Thanks!
It was about $900 for all the parts and pieces (gather over about 3 months) and about $700 to have the Muffler shop do the remaining work. The parts may be more or less expensive, depending on buying new or used, and the install price can vary depending on location. I've had that Muffler shop work on all three of my Mustangs, and I'd go back in a heart beat, that guy does amazing work. :)
any tips for getting the drivers side header and h pipe connected? that top bolt is tight quarters.
I have a combo of extensions and knuckles to reach up there and tighten it. I agree, it's difficult and I haven't found an easy way yet. :)
I personally would have went with a pair of Dynomax super turbo mufflers. I cannot stand the sound of Flowmasters.
Yup, they're not for everyone.
I’d like to buy headers and exhaust for my 1970 428 SCJ Mustang drag pack, manual. Do you have any recommendations please ?
With that size of engine, you'll want something that will allow you to move the air your engine can move. There are lots of good brands out there, but anything that is a Tri-Y or 4-to-1 style header will be great. I'm not sure you'd be happy with shorties, like what I have here. If it's in the budget, I'd call FPA Headers and order a Tri-Y set from him. For mufflers, that's super subjective, and I don't know what sounds good to you. I like my Flowmaster 40-Series, but that one is more difficult to recommend without knowing what sound you like. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you very much. I’ll do exactly that. I’ve already contacted FPA so they’re top on the list from the online research I’ve done. I’ll look into flowmaster 40 series
I just purchased the same headers and h pipe but went with Magnaflow mufflers. You let you exhaust shop install all the rest of piping and muffler install? They custom bent around the axle and welded in the v-band clamps.
Correct, I had the exhaust shop make the piping from the back end of the H-Pipe to the mufflers, position the mufflers and hangers, bend the tubing to go around the axle, and make the pieces that fit out the rear valence. It was cheaper for me to get the V-Band clamps off Ebay and bring them to him to weld on.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I just took a 3” exhaust off my cars the pervious owner put on that was just too big. Going back with 2.5 then installing the T5 from modern driveline kit.
Was there any particular reason you decided on the JBA H pipe vs the X pipe? Just curious incase I decide to go a similar route with the headers. Thanks!
I've heard that the H-Pipe gives more of a rumble to the sound, versus the X-Pipe giving it more of a "scream". I like the rumble of the V8, so that's why I went with the H-Pipe. :)
Awesome vid Andy, very stoked for you. Given your experience working with the 4 speed in your previous stang, do you believe these headers would fit with the z-bar without modifications? I’m having the toughest time finding headers that will work with my set up. A shop near me said the JBAs would be my best bet or try stock Hi-Po manifolds… Thoughts? Thanks!
From what I can see, I don't think the Z-bat would work with these Shorty headers, but it's tough to tell. The pipes all collect right where that z-bar would be. Sorry, but I don't have enough info for you. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Makes sense; that’s what I was afraid of before I drop hundreds on these headers and then they don’t fit… Thanks!
Great Channel! What was the part number on the H-pipe you used for the JBA 1650’s??
Thanks!
The JBA H-Pipe is part number 1650SH. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel awesome thanks! About to install this setup
Do you have a Borgeson steering box on this car?
Nope, the OEM unit. The only Borgeson item I have is the coupling device between the new tilt steering shaft and the steering box. :)
Hi Andy. I need a work stand light source when I am doing things in the engine bay or under the car . I notice how well lit you videos are. What do you use ?
They are battery powered (rechargeable) LED lights from Harbor Freight. Look up "Braun 1250 Lumen Battery Light". :)
Thanks Andy. I assume you mount it on some sort of stand?
No, they have a kick-stand on the back, you can set them just about anywhere.
Thanks Andy...good stuff. My engine is out waiting to be installed after the rest of the car is close to being done. Question...I have the headers on the engine now and when I drop in the engine I'm hoping I can do it with the headers on. Any experience with that? Do you think I'll be able to do that? Or do you think I'll have to take off headers to drop in motor?
Thanks!
Installing the motor with the headers on depends on the motor size and header style. If you have the 289/302, then it depends on the headers. Some headers designs have the primary tubes sort of "flare" out after they get past the shock towers as there's more space. Some style keep everything tucked in close to the block and its possible to put it all in at once. As you are probable familiar, the 65/66 cars have a small engine bay, so shoving a motor in as already tight, so any headers can complicate the install. There's no harm in trying it, all you lose is time. If it can be done, then you'll likely save some busted knuckles trying to install the headers afterwards. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks. I have shorty headers very similar to what you installed. When the time comes I think I'll throw some blankets over the shock towers and try to stick it with them on. As you said...all I'll lose is time.
So compared to the long tubes on the first car.. how are you liking the shorties? I want to get my stock headers out but am torn about what to replace them with. Thoughts opinions?
I believe the primaries on these Shorties are larger than the tube on my Summit Racing Headers, and so with this motor, it's not helping me. The shorties are suppose to help with low rpm power, but the tube size is killing any gains I'd see with a relatively stock motor. But I bought these with future plans in mind, so I'm hoping they'll help down the road. :)
If someone was keeping their motor stock, or mostly stock, I'd recommend Tri-Y headers as they combine the benefits shorties and longtube headers into a single package.
@@AndyKruseChannel definitely thought about there cause I have decided to go down the road of upgrading cam, heads, etc.. might go with some basic tri ys until the day comes to get more out of the 289. I just feel bad for her right now having to use the stock exhaust manifolds
What exhaust tips are those?
Sorry boss, but I don't know, it was something that the muffler shop had. :)
It doesn’t look very difficult I wanna do my fox body
Yeah, this install was fairly straight forward. :)
I've always used ARP 5/16" 12 pt stainless steel header bolts.
If you put a small amount of Perma-tex thread sealant on the threads ( sounds strange) before installing the bolts won't back out until disassembly.
P.S.
What size wheel & tire combo are you running.
I have a 65 fastback with a 351w and JBA long and Short tube Headers. just trying to figure out which ones to use.
Wheels are 16x7, 4" backspacing, part number VN2156765. Tires are 225/50/16, Falken Azenis RT615k+
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the information. I have owned a 65 fastback since 1988. I'm redoing the car and accumulating parts for years. I have the Global West adjustable front strut setup going on, with Wildwood Brakes (4 piston black coated Calipers) the rear springs are Global West reverse eye leaf springs with del-a-lum bushings.
My question is do you have any rubbing issues with your wheel/tire combination?
I would like to use 16×8 all around. Personally I think 16" wheels look right on the 65-66 mustangs. 17'"s look too big and modern.
I currently have 15×7 torque thrusts that are off set milled 20 thousands. There's not much tire selection for 15" wheels today. Your fastback looks great!
Are those torque thrusts , vintage Wheel works, V45 or Torque thrusts 2's.
The wheels/tires are the last big purchase to make.
Thanks for your time
@@johnclemans7802 I don't have any rubbing, but I also had to roll my fenders. 15x7 wheel is actually 8 inches wide, so the 4 inch backspacing I have means the face of the wheel mounting surface is in the middle of the wheel. Then you couple that with the width of tire I have and you can begin to see what might fit on your ride. With your reverse-eye leafs, you are a 1/2" low than I am because I have mid-eye leafs and a 1/2" lowering block. Yes, my wheels are Torq Thrust II wheels. 😀
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for your reply the information. My inner fender lips are rolled as well. Hope to get my car back on the road soon, looks like the car from the movie Bullet.
you forgot the antiseeze?forgive my spelling lol
Anti seize for which part?
on the header bolts.@@AndyKruseChannel
Not your best video Andy, normally superb😮
Yeah, they can't all be bangers. :)
🤬
You're welcome?