Excellent list. I recommend American Autowire and just rewire the entire car. Old wiring is a fire hazard. I would as well add suspension, steering, and Shelby drop for 11,12,13. Open Tracker Racing is a good source for those three items.
Thanks! I could have easily made the list "the top 20 things to do", but then it becomes less about popular and smart modifications and more about how I want people to build their car. :)
I would say Monty Carlo bar frame connectors #1 brake master lower the car Shelby dropped. I have a 66 gt350 and removed all the original drive train and put in all after market. If you break aftermarket it will not kill the value of the car. It’s a 331 stroker. Faster than stock by far
Nice choices. I have owned a 1965 Mustang since 1978. I also built AC Cobras for a living. Here are my personal modifications starting from front to back. And my goal was to try to use all OEM parts from FORD and keep the 1965 look. Yes to the Shelby drop, but. Here is my extra secret. But I also added extra metal under the upper control arms where the saddle bolts, because I have seen crack around those holes. 1974 Maverick spindles, they have free caster built in and can come with disc brakes dual master cylinder/adjustable proportion valve. if you get car with those, same parts as a Granada conversion. Next, bias the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch. Die grind a very thin channel X for grease that does not interfere with the threads. 1968 Mustang big block springs, and cut one third of one coil off the top. On all four corners upper arm bolts are only one shim. The car sits almost level, not having that nose dive like your car and all Shelby cars. That allows for bigger tires, a better looking stance and no worrying about speed breakers. Sit in the car while it is being aligned so it is zeroed with your weight. Monte Carlo and export brace. Good strong shocks, 0ne inch front sway bar, all polyurethane bushings, power steering close ratio box and manual, no power. I have one extra half leaf on the rear with a 5/8th inch rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings. Late model diaphragm clutch m10 1/2 inch. Duraspark electronic ignition with a 6AL MSD box (first non OEM part). Here is a big one, Tremec 5spd for that traction lock you bought. I modified the Tremc bell housing so that I kept all the 1965 clutch pedal, and linkage, clutch arm, throwout bearing. MOD: drill out the two rivets on your 1965 bell housing. Make an exact template using the four transmission mounting holes and drill the two fulcrum holes. The Tremec bell housing: remove the cable pivot arm, bolt the template and drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them once template is removed. The difference in the top loader and Tremec input shaft is, the Tarmac is 5/8th inch longer. So, get aluminum bar stock and machine down to 5/8th inch thick. The block should be like a spacer for the fulcrum assemble, moving the fulcrum forward the 5/8th inch difference. Use grade 8 fine thread counter sunk bolts and metal lock nuts. Use your standard 1965 adjustable clutch rod and add an adjustable 1968 Mustang lower clutch rod. Now you can cruise at 75 mph at 2200 RPMs. I also paid a little extra for the new driveshaft and got an aluminum one. Excluding the Tremec, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your car for dependability and longevity. I did this 35 years ago, and have never touched the car since and it was a daily driver. Three point seat belts is a must. Aluminum radiator, electric fan with a relay is great. I powder coated everything under the hood but the block. Extra, but it looks as good now as 35 years ago, Simple Green, new again. My last is, I took small tach and oil gauges and made my own Ralley Pac style gauge package. I have done the Shelby drop before, but I really believe my car handles even better with my modification. With that nose drop, your weight shifts rearward like a fulcrum. I don't get as much push or that extreme over steer. So I just gave you my decades of modifications. Good luck.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for replying. I found these to be inexpensive mods anyone could do. The alignment shop aligned Road Atlanta Race cars. The alignment guy was retired but came back to look at our modifications after 35 years. There was barely any changes in the specs, and this was a daily driver for ten years. That front suspension mod is excellent. I get complemented on the stance. And the highway, it is truly like driving a modern car.
I disagree with Granada spindles. Much better to install Kelsey Hayes spindles and brakes. That way the guy after you doesn't hate you when he can't order parts off the shelf to do simple maintenance.
@@drewschumann1 I used Maverick spindles and brakes. All parts are OEM and over the counter. It is the same calipers, rotors used on a Granada, a 33120 lb car. I used the Maverick master cylinder. The breaks have been trouble free since 1995. I have my build sheet if the car is ever sold. The only non OEM part on the car is a MSD 6AL and a Stem-Bar rear sway bar, CD player, aluminum radiator, aluminum aluminuim driveshaft, Seal electric fan. Plenty of breaks for a 1965 289.
My Father and I bought a 65 fastback 2+2 when I was 17 years old. First thing we did was power front disc brakes then Lincoln Versailles 9 inch Detroit Locker with 31 spline axels, Then of course I needed bigger rimes the 14s wouldn't fit anymore, So I went 16X8 inch Americans, allowing a wider variety of performance tires. Choosing Nitto NT01. Then I built a 302 stroked to 347 old school solid lifter, Edelbrock RPM heads, RPM manifold, Quick fuel 750 double pumper, Engle cam and scat lower rotating assembly with a racing 4 speed top loader and upgraded drive shaft U joints. then I dropped the front 1 inch with grab a track suspension and 620 lb springs.1 inch drop 5 leaf rear springs with Koni shocks all around. Aluminum radiator with 3000CFM electric fan. Fiberglass Shelby hood and rear seat delete. I shift at 7,500rpms and get 1000 Smiles to the gallon in this car. I still have it and I am 63 years old. Thats my 10
Love the list and have done most of it on my 65 289 coupe. I'd add 4.5 leafs and roller bearings for the front suspension and steering components to really improve the handling! Cheers.
@@TheMozangeles101 I don't have this car anymore. However, I do have a '66 Fastback that I'd like to upgrade the headlights. It's on the list, but it will be a bit as I've got other items I want to upgrade first. :)
@Andy Kruse I bought the harness to get power straight from the battery, also got Maxtel headlight that you could insert H4! Then I got the Philips extra white h4 bulbs. It gives it a stock look but they give out great lighting. I looked at a video on how to alighn them and they have worked out great for me! Hope that helps of you wanna improve the lighting but also wanna keep that stock appearance!
I know this video is 2 yrs old now, but i jusy inherited my great grandfather's '69 Grande (351w) with only 75k miles. Im the 4th generation owner now and this has given me a great list to start with. Love the videos Andy, thanks
Easy headlight up grade. Distributors like Classic Industries, NPD etc. offer hallogen headlights with original Ford script. Look totally stock but huge improvement in night driving. Will also have to replace the headlight switch as original will not handle the extra load. The 1967 switch is pretty much a direct replacement and does handle the extra load. Total cost about $65 and an hour labor.. Three and 4 row original style radiators are also available or can be fabricated by a good radiator shop ($350-$500). One you missed. An upgraded ignition such as the Pertronix electronic ignition is a must have for a driver. It all fits under the cap except for a single aditional wire. About $100 and an hour or so labor. NEVER deal with points again and plugs cap and rotor last forever.
I have a stock 66 coupe w/289 in Signal Flair Red, made in San Jose. Put a MSG ignition, heads & valves reworked, upgrade to Crane-Cam rocker rollers instead of the stock stamp steel. One high performance harmonic balancer for smooth high revving. Its a runner!
on my 66 GT had headers and decent mufflers but stock over the axle rear pipes, when I swapped those pipes for flow master 2.5 inch set I picked up 5 !! mph in the quarter eventually running 99 mph at 14.4 with a non posi 3.50 rear gear.
Good list but I also think that AC is a must for a Classic. I have a 67 and I had to install AC and rack & pinion plus most of the things you talked about, Think about replacing the whole wiring system. it took me a week but if I can do it you can too. Good luck.
I am definitely enjoying watching your videos found the channel today. I am looking at mustangs as of late. My first car was 68 mustang 289 my Grandpa was into the early mustangs he had many of them back in the day and was active in the early mustang club in 80s ish. Trying to get up to speed with what is being done to them like brakes etc. I was 15 summer of 1979 and paid $1900 for clean no rust or dents 68 red mustang 60k on clock had air conditioning to. Now I am finding rotted out shells for double that. I have a couple cars to go look at. I noticed a shirt you had on in a video,,, by the way I am here in the PNW Puyallup area.
Yeah, it's crazy the prices people are able to get these days for a rusted shell, let alone a complete car. Being in the PNW, you'll find it difficult to find these cars (compared to other places) and at any kind of reasonable price. That's why I had to drive to Minnesota to get my current car, it was the closest car in my price range and not a shell. If you're in no hurry, something will come up, but in the mean time you'll have nothing, so traveling may be the best option. :)
Super helpful tips for people that are just starting up. I 1000% agree to ask questions. There are sooo many people in forums that are happy to help out or on a Channel named `Andy Kruse` hahah good video man.
Andy, I'm looking at upgrading to the t5 and a different rear end. I noticed that you have a different shifter, can you share what you put in this car from a shifter perspective?
might not know this but the front spoiler aids cooling tremendously at highway speeds. also front end lift reduction and adds stability in all weather .
@@AndyKruseChannel well I got my front spoiler in a trade and also a shelby hood, for a test i pulled the rear hood pins off and drove the car without the spoiler, at about 40 mph the rear of the hood would start lifting doe to underhood air pressure, with the front spoiler mounted and the same speed the hood would stay tight to the cowl line. as another accidental test, I drove thru North Carolina one day and it was so hot the tar was being lifted by the trucks, My car stayed fully cool which had never happened before, back when these cars were new the magazines sometimes tested for the front end lift at highway speeds, some cars had several hundreds of pounds of lift, even vintage Shelby factory adds would show the Mustang with its nose high at racing speed, summary a very cheap and easy all around performance mod with no moving parts.
I bought my 66 Mustang in 1975. It was my daily driver until 1986 when clutch went out. It sat unassembled until 2016 when we did a complete rebuild. My list is much like yours. Disk brakes and master where number one. Electronic ignition replaced the points dist. Installed a Monte Carlo bar, export shock brace and aluminum radiator under the hood. My car was built with a top loader 4 speed which was freshened up but FORD made it to handle much more HP than I make so nothing else. We finished days before the Mustang 55th at Charlotte Motor Speedway. Thanks
@@AndyKruseChannel just any tips you have about the topic, I have 66 mustang in springtime yellow but debating if I should change the color since I don’t like it but people say it’s great classic color, I believe it’s the original color. I was thinking more of a sliver frost with black stripes a bit Similar to yours since I’ve always pictures muscle cars with stripes . But if you could do video of why or when or even just prices to expect when changing the color on classics.
@@franklopez3687 Other than a complete motor build, paint is likely the next most expensive part to restoring a car. I lump body work and replacement parts into that category too. Most people don't have the ability to paint their car, let alone the shop or garage space either. Plus, painting tends to have a steep learning curve as there's many components to prep work, materials, equipment, technique, etc. I agree, I'm not a fan of the Yellow, but a refreshed original paint job will look better than it does now, and it will be cheaper than completely changing the color to something different. Based on shops in my area, a complete color change (with no additional body work or part replacement) would start at $5k and go up from there. To some that's no big deal, to others like me, I can't round up that kind of cash and I'm not interested in taking out a loan. If you kept the Yellow, it would likely be less than $5k, again assuming no body work or new parts. I'll put your idea on the list, it might be good to do a quick video like you are looking for. :)
After trying different brands, I found that SuperBrightLED not only had the best price, but they fit great and had a great build quality. I plan to replace the bulbs on my new car and I will definitely use that company again. :)
I was with you for the first eight in more or less a similar order, but the last two I would have traded out to rack and pinion steering, and prothane or similar performance bushings for the suspension since this seemed to be a list of things to do to improve your Classic mustang.
Power steering could be on the list, but it requires other compromises that I was not willing to make. But, respectfully, I have to disagree with the prothane bushings. Any kind of urethane bushing will introduce a harshness to the ride quality that cannot be removed with fancy shocks. If someone was building a full racecar, then absolutely make the upgrade. But for a car that spends most of its time on the streets, stiffer "performance" bushings become tiresome very quickly. I'm trying to find that balance between realistic drivability and track performance. For me, that does not include those bushings. :)
What about the ball and socket steering box?Mine came out back in the eighties Coming from a bar. I turned the wheels all the way home. I made it though though.😅 Called the steering brain box I was a teenager when it happened
Awesome video, man. Bought a '67 with a 289 hipo... Do you have the parts list for the front disc brake conversion? Getting new wheels and tires soon and those drums need to go!
Thanks! That front spoiler was on the car when I bought it. However, that's the "normal" style spoiler for the 65-66 Mustang, lots of places sell it like Ebay or Summit Racing.
Replace the primitive non-integral power steering with a Borgeson setup, but don't go rack and pinion if it reduces turning radius. There's so much more that can be done with the suspension with stuff from Chris Alston's Chassis Works, but it's megabucks and not justified unless you're auto crossing. I would add the repro Rotunda chrome bullet mirrors. There are cheap and simple things to do to get the car well sorted like putting your wiring thru a grommet on the firewall, and using the 1970 plastic battery clamp instead of the earlier plasti-dipped metal clamp. If the spliced up under dash harness is a concern, Alloy Metal brand will solve that, Mr. Mustang brand is cheaper, but I didn't use them on my Mach 1.
Yeah, there's lots of good things we can do to our Mustangs, but limiting it to only 10 can be difficult, especially when there's some really good options out there. :)
Thanks for the extra info. I got also 66 coupe , and couple of items I want to change and I would like to know where you got the wires for you tile lights? I would start with that. Thanks
Thanks! It's great and it's not. Meaning, I love the 20" or so clearance I get under the car, it's tough to do that with regular floor jacks, and if you're working on the front or rear of the car it's great. But when the car is one the Jacks, you cannot enter from the side or middle of the car. I had done quite a bit of work on the trans and stuff in the middle of the car over the past year and using the Quickjack made it difficult to get to the area I wanted. I'm glad I have them and I would buy them again if I needed to because putting a regular lift in my garage is not realistic. But there's been a lot of times where I just used the conventional floor jacks.
@@AndyKruseChannel just finished the video, great list. you may have just pushed me into some disks up front! really like your radiator and your overflow that I saw in another upload. definitely gonna copy you there! keep em coming sir, I'll be here to watch! thanks for the upload!
@@AndyKruseChannel For Real I did not know that ! Does the Cleveland fit better in some models / years than others ? I got all spoiled seeing SBCs with 283s quickly allowing a 383 Stroker ! Just another reason for the Popularity of the SBC !
I’m looking into doing the front disc conversion. Did you have to install a master cylinder that was for disc brakes. I was told my original two reservoir master cylinder won’t work because it’s designed for drum brakes?
No, I was using a standard OEM-type dual bowl MC on that car, and I'm using the same thing on my current Mustang. An aftermarket unit, like something from Wilwood, would be nice to have, but not required.
Dual master brake cylinder with booster if budget allows . Suspension has to be in top condition !! 1 inch drop of LCA is a must ! A stiffer roll bare in front !! Wiring has to be in top shape otherwise replace !!! Rad OK but certainly a shroud and clutch fan is a must. LED taillights is a must and even H4 headlights powered through relais. At least !!!
All I have for the Dash Lights is the bulb style which is 1895. If you go to SuperbrightLED.com and type that size in, you'll be able to pick from different colors, brightness, and the intensity of the light beam (narrow vs wide). Their site is fantastic and I'd go that route again if I had to. :)
Hey I know this is kinda late to the party lol, but have a quick question for any and all that would know the answer. I have a 68 289 with 3.25.1 rear gearing, would a t5 transmission work (for just street driving) until I can get something like 3.73 gears? Also, awesome video thanks for everything you put out, its a massive help!
There is nothing wrong with using those 3.25 gears until you are in a position to upgrade. The advantage of lower gears (numerically higher) is quicker acceleration, but at the cost of higher RPMs at cruising speed. Meaning, cruising around in 5th gear with the 3.25 rear end will be about 500 RPM lower than when you swap in the 3.73 gear. If all you ever plan to do is just cruise around, you might find it difficult to swap a lower rear end since you may never take advantage of the gearing. Plus, there's nothing incompatible with the T5 and the 3.25 gearing you have in your car right now. :)
I just bought a 64 1/2 or 65 Mustang GT, 289 4bbl, 4speed, 4.11 rear end and front disc brakes How many GT did Ford make? How do you find out how much it is worth? Did you ever think about painting your garage floor with the garage epoxy paint for garage at Home Depot. I did it for my neighbor and he loves it. Thanks
Congrats on your new purchase. Around 15,000 GTs were made in 1965. Determining its worth is tough, there are so many factors that even basic websites can be wrong given all the variable. The best place is to see what they're selling for in your area and go from there. I've thought about painting the floor, but it's way low on the priority list. :)
First for me is a dual master cylinder. Electronic ignition is a must. The basic Pertronics is good. I have had it on my 65 and 67 for 20 years and no problems. I have Mustang II consoles in both cars. They fit and have an armrest and storage compartment. Harder to find these days though. Halogen headlights are a good upgrade and are not expensive. 2057 tail light bulbs are brighter than standard 1157. Adding a third brake light is also good. Ebay has LED ones for not much.
Yes, that dual MC is super critical now that they're really cheap and provide that extra safety cushion for braking. I've put that Pertronix (model no. 1281) in all my Mustangs and have never looked back. I've got so spoiled by that piece of magic that I probably could set up the points on a car if I needed to. :)
Yes, a little bit. I was not happy with the shroud I installed, and I had bigger plans for my setup before I sold that car. Putting that new radiator and electric fan in the car was partially for future mods I never did. However, I did the same thing (but with a bigger radiator) with my current car, and I am finding that I still have some head room with my larger Rad and Fan, so I guess that means I need to make more power!! :)
Hi i am about to buy a Mustang 1966 ( its my first time ) and i took many videos beneath the car and inside the engine.. saw some dust here and there.. and interior seems decent.. can i share with u the videos and get ur advise of will i need to do if i purchase this car… just want be sure on the future expenses required for the car and if anything is alarming ! 🙏🏻🙏🏻☺️
It's awesome you're in a position to buy a classic Mustang, but the price and value of any Mustang can be all over the map. It's difficult to see from a video how good a car really is, meaning some things can't easily be seen through a camera. The feel of something or it's relationship to other parts is difficult to convey in a video. No Mustang is beyond repair, it's just how much money do you want to sink into it. Determine if your able to do any of the repairs/replacements/upgrades yourself and buy the car that is the nicest one you can afford. Meaning, if you're not a body/paint guy, but you can turn a wrench, then buy the car with the nicest, straightest body and paint. Dust is not a bad thing, as long as it's not inside the carburetor. A dirty car is not always representative of the condition of the car nor how well the previous owner took care of the car. Ask lots of questions, and get them to point out the stuff on the car that needs addressing. Find out what doesn't work and find out what has been repaired/replaced and why. Ask them if anything is on "it's way out" so that you can take care of it sooner than later. Lastly, make sure it has a title, because not every state is easy to work with untitled or lost titled cars, this may be a headache you don't want. Good luck!! :)
For this car I used their LED replacement bulbs that were the 1895 size, part number BA9S-WW4-32-12VAC. But in my current Mustang I now use a better version they sell, part number BA9S-WW-120-12VAC. :)
The vacuum line is connected the Vacuum Advance setup on my distributor. The wheels are American Racing, Torque Thrust, 15x7, 4" backspacing (0.0" offset), part number VN3095765.
HI Andy, Great video buddy, I am starting with a 68 Fastback, Would you mind to let me know what kind of secuential lighting did you buy? was there any special wiring to it?
Thanks! The tail lights on that car were from CJ Pony Parts. The equivalent light setup for your car would be part number TLLED103, but be sure to buy two of them, and then you'll need the flasher upgrade for you lighting which is part number HW2811. There's no wire cutting or splicing, it's purely plug and play. On the back of the LED lights is a switch where you can select sequential or standard. Good luck! :)
They say it adds torque because of the longer runner length (it's only an inch), but it also isolates the carb from the hot intake manifold. If the hot intake manifold were to heat up the carb, it could affect performance by heating the air and fuel in the carb. Does it make a difference on my relatively stock car? I don't know, I haven't put the car on the dyno to see. Also, by raising the carb up an inch, it creates more room below it to route the fuel line, heater hoses, and helps to ensure the choke linkage isn't touching anything. :)
Andy looking to put in t5 in my 66. With the mustang being a smaller car. Do you feel there’s adequate room on the floor to be moving your feet around for the clutch and stuff. Weird question. Just debating on AOD vs T5. Put 3.55 in rear after watching your video.
Plenty of room. Converting an Auto to a Manual in these cars require a few more parts (check out my recent videos of swapping a C4 Auto for T5 in my current car), but it doesn't take any more space than the cars that came with a manual from the factory. I've got large feet and find I have plenty of room under the dash. If a T5 swap is in the budget, I'd recommend it all day long over the C4 or AOD. I can appreciate the "care free cruising" that an Auto provides, but a manual in these cars is far superior. 3:55 gears are a perfect blend for those that want a little pickup down low, but realistic RPMs on the highway. Just make sure you get the T5 with the 2.95 1st gear, not the 3.35 1st gear. If you get the later, 1st gear is almost too short, almost unusable. It gets worse with the 3.35 1st gear if you decide to throw 3:80 gears in the back. :)
Just getting new leaf springs will help liven up the rear. If you’re looking for something stiffer, you can check out some 4.5 leaf or 5 leaf springs. If you want to get lower springs, mid-eye leafs will provide about a 1 inch lowering, and reverse-eye leafs will yield about a 2 inch drop.
If you're never on the highway, or rarely travel at 60+, then I think shorter gears might be more fun. Maybe check out what 3.80 or 4.11 might do for you. There are websites that allow you to put in your gear ratios to see what the RPM would be for a given speed. The bigger the number, the faster you will accelerate, but it comes at the cost of reaching higher RPMs sooner in each gear. They say shorter gears (numerically higher) are more fun to drive, but it can be less fun when you're cruising at higher speeds and you're at 4000 RPM going down the highway. :)
Which parts are you referring to? The enter console is from CJ Pony Parts, as well as the door cards. The seats and carpet were already in the car when I bought it. The radio delete plate was purchased off ebay. That's about it. :)
What size exhaust pipes? I have 2inch on mine. I just got underneath fully tonight (just bought it!). Looks like summit racing mufflers from what I can tell... I want to change for the Flowmasters. And go X pipe. What engine do you have?
I have JBA Shorty Headers (1650S) with a JBA H-Pipe (1650SH) that is 2.5 inch. The mufflers are 2.5 inch but my exhaust guy had a hard time making the 2.5 exit tubes fit in between the gas tank and leaf springs because of the location in the lower valence where the exit comes through. So they're 2.25 inch from the mufflers back. The 2.5 inch tubes are absolutely overkill for my relatively stock 289. But I have some different plans so hopefully the 2.25 inch pieces will be the bottle neck. Stock-ish motors in these cars are happier with 2 inch exhaust. Unless you're sure, you should check into the X-pipe sound. It tends to give more of a raspy sound and less of a rumble sound. I wouldn't say it sounds bad, and there's some car that only sound good with an X-pipe, but I think the rumble sounds better on these older motors. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for the response! So sounds like keeping my H pipe 2 inch setup is the way to go. But upgrade the mufflers to something better sounding.
You never talked about the issues with motor mounts. The stock motor mounts are notorious for blowing out and separating the engine from the frame of the car. It happened to me in 1972. The engine hit the radiator and the battery. I had water, antifreeze and battery acid all very the engine, wires and engine compartment. What a mess. People need to know this, especially if you are doing things to add more power.
Depends on lots of factors like location of car, combinations of mods on the car, overall condition, and even the color. The last can easily drive the price up or down, depending on all sorts of factors like popularity, condition, rarity, and if it's some crazy color that was never offered on the Mustang. This particular car had over $13k in parts, upgrades, and replacements, and that doesn't count for any labor as it was done by me (not some fab shop or restoration shop), and I'd say the car was not finished or it still had lots of parts and pieces that still needed to be reviewed. Prices have gone up since this car was built, so replicating everything on this car could easily cost over $15k, but you still need to buy the car. I imagine that it would be difficult to find this car, in this condition and with these upgrades, for less than $25k. In the last year or so the prices of these cars has come down a little bit, so that would help, but some people still think they're sitting on a $50k payday, which just isn't going to happen. :)
well the transmissions don't last forever anyway so running nitrous is popular. I only had an LX, my father had the GT (different state). I like the lightweight body and pinky finger steering but I had a rear wheel drive convertible in the iowa winters. It actually was improved because the weight was in the back from the convertible motor and design. I guess that's how GM knew I could drive 50 in the mods. My grandfather (on my mother's side) worked for a GM company when he got back from ww2. I think that confuses sherlock who has never seen pluralities.
They are American Racing Torq Thrust wheels, sized 15x7, with 3.75" backspacing (part number VN3095765). The tires are BF Goodrich Radial T/A, sized 225/60/15, all four. For what it's worth, I wish I had these on my current Mustang and not the 16" wheels I have now.
@@AndyKruseChannel Many thanks Andy. I'm in Australia and about to upgrade from the original wheels on my '66 convertible. I'm reliably informed that the originals will be 14 inch and that I should go up to 15 x 7 wheels. I'd value your thoughts on this subject.
I think the original wheels were 14x6, which is fine for someone that wants an all original car, or only plans to go to the grocery store. But if we want any kind of performance from our cars, we need to step up the width for better tire options, and that usually requires the wheel size to increase too (because of the tires available today). Further, if an owner wanted to upgrade their front drums to discs, they're usually stuck with getting 15 inch or larger wheels (although Wilwood makes a front discs that works with many 14 inch wheels). On the car in this video, I upgraded to these 15x7 wheels and I was happy with the outcome. I think the look is good and there were no fitment issues. On my current car, I wanted more performance oriented tires and I was very, very limited on what I could get in 15 inch tires sizes within the limited range of widths that fit these cars. Therefore, I was forced to get 16 inch wheels, which I'm not as wild about, in the looks department, but I get the performance I was after. In your scenario, if performance is not the top of the list, I'd recommend 15 inch wheels, like what I have in this video. I think they look better than 16 inch wheels, and I think the specific model I mentioned in my earlier reply was the better version of the Torq Thrust wheels. The spokes on those wheels are straight and they look more like the magnesium wheels that could be purchased in the 60s. Most of the Torq Thrust wheels today have a slight curve to the spoke (which allows for clearance of most calipers), and my current 16 inch wheels have that same dumb curve. If I could get the performance tires I want in a 15 inch size, I'd go back to those 15 inch wheels in a heart beat. :)
I have been using a 180 degree thermostat. I don't have the car in this video anymore, but in my current Mustang, I am still using a 180 degree thermostat, but I also have a larger 24" radiator and electric fans. :)
That car had American Racing Torq Thrust wheels, sized 15x7, with 3.75" backspacing, part number VN3095765. The tires are BFGoodrich Radial T/A, sized 225/60/15. :)
I don't know for certain, it was on the car when I bought it. However, I have seen lots of cars from the Trans-Am era with those same lower spoilers. I've also seen them installed at various angles, where some looked more aggressive than others.
On that car I was limited by the Shelby style hood. The filter sits up inside the scoop and almost touches. A bigger filter would not let the hood close. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel did you try the filter bottom that drops it down like an inch to give the extra clearance? I use it on mine with the same hood and have no issues
@@dustinjenkins1709 No, but I probably could have. Unfortunately I don't have that car anymore to make the change. However, my new car ('66 Fastback) ironically came with the same filter. I don't have the same issue with fitment and it's on my list to explore new filters. :)
Would this make a good first car for an 18 year old? Plan on learning how to work on cars and don't want to spend more than $15k to get the car, have it run well, and run reasonable. Is this possible and a good idea? I am new to these cars
I think the knowledge that can be learned from working on these cars can be valuable for decades to come, but the cost to entry is pretty steep. Finding a classic Mustang for $15k or less will likely mean the car needs a lot of work. Fixing and replacing a lot of the common parts and pieces that have worn out over the last 60 years can be done with minimal tools and not much money, individually. But it can also get expensive, especially if you're wanting to upgrade to better and/or shinier parts. There is a simplicity that comes with these cars electrically, meaning most people can fix something with usually just a TH-cam video. But electrical gremlins can plague someone in more modern cars and cause people to pull their hair out because it might not always be obvious what's going on. If purchasing a classic Mustang was for someone's secondary vehicle, it may make better sense. Due to what someone could reasonably get for $15k these days, that car will likely need another $5k-$10k to be a reliable daily driver, and this probably doesn't include making it look nice (like paint). Good luck!! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for your advice! I will probably look into the car when I have more money. Any cool reliable and easy to work on cars for about $10k? is an L98 powered C4 corvette a good idea too?
@@kareemestwani2400 I would imagine you could get into one of those Corvettes for less than a classic Mustang, and for your budget it would probably be in slightly better shape, allowing you to use it as a daily too. As awesome as it is to have a classic Mustang, unfortunately the price for these cars has gone up so much in the last 10 years that it makes it difficult for someone new to the hobby or with less funds to buy one and join the fun. Just make sure whatever car you pick is the one you want. There's nothing worse than wanting to work on a car and play in this sand box only to have it be with a car you wish you never bought. :)
Andy, love your videos. I have a 66 as well. How did you do your rear end gear ratio change? Did you just change the ring and pinion, or did you change the whole third member? You also have made my mind up about the T5 swap. My car is currently a C4 and I’ve been debating a long time. I’m swapping after seeing how simple it is on your video.
I removed the Third Member and took it to a local shop to have them swap over the gears and set the lash. I just don't have the tools to do this job and it's one of those things that I'm not comfortable assembling (I'd rather rebuild a motor). Once I got the Third Member back, I installed it in the car myself. I've got a video on that. For the T5 swap, it's amazingly simple once you see everything laid out. Since you're swapping from an Auto to the T5, I recommend the hydraulic clutch actuation. I've got a video on how to install the components in the car while everything is still in place. If you choose to do the external slave cylinder mounted to the bellhousing (from MDL), it's a little easier to install while you have the bellhousing out during the whole T5 swap. I've installed the T5 on two separate Mustangs (and videos for both), but if you're able to do it, get the 1983-1993 T5 for your swap, as the later years require extra parts and pieces to make it work (I cover that in my video). Good luck, you've got this!!
I'd say locking seat backs and shoulder belt system, maybe seats that have shoulder belts built in. Steel plate to block gas from coming inside the back seat if in an accident. Safety is a big deal, the stock seats and lap belts are a death wish.
It was a generic unit I purchased off Ebay. 16 inch diameter, 3000 cfm, and it included the relay kit, all for about $45. The aluminum shroud was separate, about $85 and it was made to fit the size of radiator I had. Not a custom shroud, but I found one that was made for that model of radiator. :)
I purchased a kit from Quick Performance that included the Trac-Lok Diff and the 3.55:1 gear (it also included all the bearings and seals too) for about $500. I removed the third member and took it to a local shop to have them swap out the guts of the third member to the new parts for about $300. I also had to buy a new speedo gear, axle seals, and some oil. That whole project was about $960. I made a video about it, it's on my channel, you should check it out! :)
My worst mistake was letting mine sit too long. Absolutely the worst for any car. Simply run it once a week if you can. It will save tons of headaches.
Yeah, that is a good one and I had a few more. I probably should redo the list, I've learned a few things since then and figured out maybe a slightly better build path. :)
What about safer seats with headrests? I would consider them as much of a necessary safety upgrade as disc brakes and dual cylinders. BTW I'm British and well into my 60's. (Excuse an old soldier reminiscing.) th-cam.com/video/Gt78aQ15VfE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheGrandTour So I remember low seat backs well and cars without seatbelts. My first car was an older second hand Ford Cortina MK2 1600E back in 1977. (Look it up.) Given to me by my parents. It had nice big back bench seats for a young single man and his girlfriends, if you get the drift. First thing I did was buy some bucket/racing front seats with headrests. Even though it was more a comfort car than a performance thing. I did it for safety reasons and they cost a small fortune back then! Especially having them re-upholstered in leather with more padding to match the plush rear bench. Good job my uncle owned an upholstery business. I was heart broken when the car was stolen, crashed and burnt beyond repair. I still am if truth be told. I can't remember much about my first girlfriends but I recall everything about my first car in great full colour detail. Live to drive. Drive to live!
That's it? What about F x D = T? The larger the rotor, the more stopping torque, the faster the vehicle stops. Also, the clamping force on an object will be stronger than a pushing force. But if you prefer to have a vehicle with Drum Brakes, you do you. :)
That depends on where you live as larger cities and urban areas will have more shops that can do that kind of work. Your typical mechanic/car repair place are not likely to be setup for that kind of work. Part of the issue is rewiring a car can be time consuming and most shops can’t have a car sit for a long time while the wiring gets completed. You might look into doing it yourself as you can buy all the tools and watch a few videos on what to do, and it will save you a ton of money in the end. I’m thinking about redoing the wiring and I will definitely do it myself. 😁
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Fine job. My 93 year old dad gave me advice, plan on doing car work twice. Once to learn how, and once to do it right.
Haha, that sounds about right. :)
If you don’t do it twice it ain’t worth doing.
Excellent list. I recommend American Autowire and just rewire the entire car. Old wiring is a fire hazard. I would as well add suspension, steering, and Shelby drop for 11,12,13. Open Tracker Racing is a good source for those three items.
Thanks!
I could have easily made the list "the top 20 things to do", but then it becomes less about popular and smart modifications and more about how I want people to build their car. :)
Plus, you can always make a follow up video "10 more things to do..."
We love the AAW harness! Classic update kit is awesome!
I would say Monty Carlo bar frame connectors #1 brake master lower the car Shelby dropped. I have a 66 gt350 and removed all the original drive train and put in all after market. If you break aftermarket it will not kill the value of the car. It’s a 331 stroker. Faster than stock by far
A big yes to VMF. Vintage Mustang Forum has helped me out many times. Great people there.
Couldn't agree more!
Nice choices. I have owned a 1965 Mustang since 1978. I also built AC Cobras for a living. Here are my personal modifications starting from front to back. And my goal was to try to use all OEM parts from FORD and keep the 1965 look. Yes to the Shelby drop, but. Here is my extra secret. But I also added extra metal under the upper control arms where the saddle bolts, because I have seen crack around those holes. 1974 Maverick spindles, they have free caster built in and can come with disc brakes dual master cylinder/adjustable proportion valve. if you get car with those, same parts as a Granada conversion. Next, bias the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch. Die grind a very thin channel X for grease that does not interfere with the threads. 1968 Mustang big block springs, and cut one third of one coil off the top. On all four corners upper arm bolts are only one shim. The car sits almost level, not having that nose dive like your car and all Shelby cars. That allows for bigger tires, a better looking stance and no worrying about speed breakers. Sit in the car while it is being aligned so it is zeroed with your weight. Monte Carlo and export brace. Good strong shocks, 0ne inch front sway bar, all polyurethane bushings, power steering close ratio box and manual, no power. I have one extra half leaf on the rear with a 5/8th inch rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings. Late model diaphragm clutch m10 1/2 inch. Duraspark electronic ignition with a 6AL MSD box (first non OEM part). Here is a big one, Tremec 5spd for that traction lock you bought. I modified the Tremc bell housing so that I kept all the 1965 clutch pedal, and linkage, clutch arm, throwout bearing. MOD: drill out the two rivets on your 1965 bell housing. Make an exact template using the four transmission mounting holes and drill the two fulcrum holes. The Tremec bell housing: remove the cable pivot arm, bolt the template and drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them once template is removed. The difference in the top loader and Tremec input shaft is, the Tarmac is 5/8th inch longer. So, get aluminum bar stock and machine down to 5/8th inch thick. The block should be like a spacer for the fulcrum assemble, moving the fulcrum forward the 5/8th inch difference. Use grade 8 fine thread counter sunk bolts and metal lock nuts. Use your standard 1965 adjustable clutch rod and add an adjustable 1968 Mustang lower clutch rod. Now you can cruise at 75 mph at 2200 RPMs. I also paid a little extra for the new driveshaft and got an aluminum one. Excluding the Tremec, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your car for dependability and longevity. I did this 35 years ago, and have never touched the car since and it was a daily driver. Three point seat belts is a must. Aluminum radiator, electric fan with a relay is great. I powder coated everything under the hood but the block. Extra, but it looks as good now as 35 years ago, Simple Green, new again. My last is, I took small tach and oil gauges and made my own Ralley Pac style gauge package. I have done the Shelby drop before, but I really believe my car handles even better with my modification. With that nose drop, your weight shifts rearward like a fulcrum. I don't get as much push or that extreme over steer. So I just gave you my decades of modifications. Good luck.
Wow, that's a comprehensive list. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for replying. I found these to be inexpensive mods anyone could do. The alignment shop aligned Road Atlanta Race cars. The alignment guy was retired but came back to look at our modifications after 35 years. There was barely any changes in the specs, and this was a daily driver for ten years. That front suspension mod is excellent. I get complemented on the stance. And the highway, it is truly like driving a modern car.
I disagree with Granada spindles. Much better to install Kelsey Hayes spindles and brakes. That way the guy after you doesn't hate you when he can't order parts off the shelf to do simple maintenance.
@@drewschumann1 I used Maverick spindles and brakes. All parts are OEM and over the counter. It is the same calipers, rotors used on a Granada, a 33120 lb car. I used the Maverick master cylinder. The breaks have been trouble free since 1995. I have my build sheet if the car is ever sold. The only non OEM part on the car is a MSD 6AL and a Stem-Bar rear sway bar, CD player, aluminum radiator, aluminum aluminuim driveshaft, Seal electric fan. Plenty of breaks for a 1965 289.
so shelby drop or no shelby drop?
My Father and I bought a 65 fastback 2+2 when I was 17 years old. First thing we did was power front disc brakes then Lincoln Versailles 9 inch Detroit Locker with 31 spline axels, Then of course I needed bigger rimes the 14s wouldn't fit anymore, So I went 16X8 inch Americans, allowing a wider variety of performance tires. Choosing Nitto NT01. Then I built a 302 stroked to 347 old school solid lifter, Edelbrock RPM heads, RPM manifold, Quick fuel 750 double pumper, Engle cam and scat lower rotating assembly with a racing 4 speed top loader and upgraded drive shaft U joints. then I dropped the front 1 inch with grab a track suspension and 620 lb springs.1 inch drop 5 leaf rear springs with Koni shocks all around. Aluminum radiator with 3000CFM electric fan. Fiberglass Shelby hood and rear seat delete. I shift at 7,500rpms and get 1000 Smiles to the gallon in this car. I still have it and I am 63 years old. Thats my 10
Sounds like a fun build path.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for your video's. My Mustang Still scares me daily. My Father is Gone but our project lives on.
Love the list and have done most of it on my 65 289 coupe. I'd add 4.5 leafs and roller bearings for the front suspension and steering components to really improve the handling! Cheers.
Very nice!
Where did you add the roller bearings? Is this something I should look into?
@Andy Kruse
Hi, Andy have you upgraded your headlights yet?
@@TheMozangeles101 I don't have this car anymore. However, I do have a '66 Fastback that I'd like to upgrade the headlights. It's on the list, but it will be a bit as I've got other items I want to upgrade first. :)
@Andy Kruse
I bought the harness to get power straight from the battery, also got Maxtel headlight that you could insert H4! Then I got the Philips extra white h4 bulbs. It gives it a stock look but they give out great lighting. I looked at a video on how to alighn them and they have worked out great for me!
Hope that helps of you wanna improve the lighting but also wanna keep that stock appearance!
I know this video is 2 yrs old now, but i jusy inherited my great grandfather's '69 Grande (351w) with only 75k miles. Im the 4th generation owner now and this has given me a great list to start with. Love the videos Andy, thanks
Awesome, good luck with your new project, I hope it turns out like you want. Hopefully I have a few videos that can help you on your journey. :)
That double brake master cylinder is no joke , trust me ...
Yeah, it's one of the most important upgrades to be done on these cars. :)
Same here. One of the first I did to my 65.
Great Video! I've done many of those mods and can vouch for them!
Right on!
Easy headlight up grade. Distributors like Classic Industries, NPD etc. offer hallogen headlights with original Ford script. Look totally stock but huge improvement in night driving. Will also have to replace the headlight switch as original will not handle the extra load. The 1967 switch is pretty much a direct replacement and does handle the extra load. Total cost about $65 and an hour labor.. Three and 4 row original style radiators are also available or can be fabricated by a good radiator shop ($350-$500). One you missed. An upgraded ignition such as the Pertronix electronic ignition is a must have for a driver. It all fits under the cap except for a single aditional wire. About $100 and an hour or so labor. NEVER deal with points again and plugs cap and rotor last forever.
Maybe spend a little bit of time scrolling through my video library?
I have a stock 66 coupe w/289 in Signal Flair Red, made in San Jose.
Put a MSG ignition, heads & valves reworked, upgrade to Crane-Cam rocker rollers instead of the stock stamp steel. One high performance harmonic balancer for smooth high revving. Its a runner!
Yeah, there's lots of ways to build these cars. :)
Cibie headlight striaght swap replacement kit, shoutld be around $200 and they light up the runway like you wouldn't believe.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Awesome video Andy, I always look forward to watching them, helps me make decisions with my 66’ Mustang
Glad to hear it!
on my 66 GT had headers and decent mufflers but stock over the axle rear pipes, when I swapped those pipes for flow master 2.5 inch set I picked up 5 !! mph in the quarter eventually running 99 mph at 14.4 with a non posi 3.50 rear gear.
Yeah, it's cool how little tweaks can result in a measurable performance difference. :)
Thanks for the list. I got my 65 too and needs a lots of work, but the good thing is drivable.
Awesome, good luck!
Good list but I also think that AC is a must for a Classic. I have a 67 and I had to install AC and rack & pinion plus most of the things you talked about, Think about replacing the whole wiring system. it took me a week but if I can do it you can too. Good luck.
Right on
I am definitely enjoying watching your videos found the channel today. I am looking at mustangs as of late. My first car was 68 mustang 289 my Grandpa was into the early mustangs he had many of them back in the day and was active in the early mustang club in 80s ish. Trying to get up to speed with what is being done to them like brakes etc. I was 15 summer of 1979 and paid $1900 for clean no rust or dents 68 red mustang 60k on clock had air conditioning to. Now I am finding rotted out shells for double that. I have a couple cars to go look at. I noticed a shirt you had on in a video,,, by the way I am here in the PNW Puyallup area.
Yeah, it's crazy the prices people are able to get these days for a rusted shell, let alone a complete car. Being in the PNW, you'll find it difficult to find these cars (compared to other places) and at any kind of reasonable price. That's why I had to drive to Minnesota to get my current car, it was the closest car in my price range and not a shell. If you're in no hurry, something will come up, but in the mean time you'll have nothing, so traveling may be the best option. :)
On my 67 the Headlights I use are the HELLA glass bulb with an LED H4 bulb or a standard H4 halogen.I dont like the halo stuff myself.
Holley makes a headlight that I'd like to try, but they're $200 each.
I bought a 66 in high school rebuilt the whole thing in 3month same rims double core the radiator
Nice, these cars make great projects. :)
Great to see that you hand loosened the wheel nuts and then spun them off with a gun (avoids nut damage )
Yeah, but I do plenty of other things wrong, so I'll take the credit where I can get it. :)
Super helpful tips for people that are just starting up. I 1000% agree to ask questions. There are sooo many people in forums that are happy to help out or on a Channel named `Andy Kruse` hahah good video man.
Glad it was helpful!
Andy, I'm looking at upgrading to the t5 and a different rear end. I noticed that you have a different shifter, can you share what you put in this car from a shifter perspective?
Hurst shifter, part number 4106.
Beautiful video thanks brother ❤ regards from uk 🇬🇧 Birmingham city
Thanks and welcome!
Got a couple good tips here. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. Look up Octane Lighting for stock looking led headlights.
Thanks, will do!
@Andy Kruse I got them for my Galaxie, they work great 👍🏼
might not know this but the front spoiler aids cooling tremendously at highway speeds. also front end lift reduction and adds stability in all weather .
Yes, but sometimes looks are preferred over a 1/10 of a second in a lap time, sometimes not. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel well I got my front spoiler in a trade and also a shelby hood, for a test i pulled the rear hood pins off and drove the car without the spoiler, at about 40 mph the rear of the hood would start lifting doe to underhood air pressure, with the front spoiler mounted and the same speed the hood would stay tight to the cowl line. as another accidental test, I drove thru North Carolina one day and it was so hot the tar was being lifted by the trucks, My car stayed fully cool which had never happened before, back when these cars were new the magazines sometimes tested for the front end lift at highway speeds, some cars had several hundreds of pounds of lift, even vintage Shelby factory adds would show the Mustang with its nose high at racing speed, summary a very cheap and easy all around performance mod with no moving parts.
I bought my 66 Mustang in 1975. It was my daily driver until 1986 when clutch went out. It sat unassembled until 2016 when we did a complete rebuild. My list is much like yours.
Disk brakes and master where number one. Electronic ignition replaced the points dist. Installed a Monte Carlo bar, export shock brace and aluminum radiator under the hood. My car was built with a top loader 4 speed which was freshened up but FORD made it to handle much more HP than I make so nothing else. We finished days before the Mustang 55th at Charlotte Motor Speedway. Thanks
Yeah, some of the best parts of this hobby is the stories we create and our experiences. :)
could you do video on paint jobs for a classic mustangs next? Love your videos always a lot great info.
That would be cool, but I'm not sure I know enough to make a video on paint.
@@AndyKruseChannel just any tips you have about the topic, I have 66 mustang in springtime yellow but debating if I should change the color since I don’t like it but people say it’s great classic color, I believe it’s the original color. I was thinking more of a sliver frost with black stripes a bit Similar to yours since I’ve always pictures muscle cars with stripes . But if you could do video of why or when or even just prices to expect when changing the color on classics.
@@franklopez3687 Other than a complete motor build, paint is likely the next most expensive part to restoring a car. I lump body work and replacement parts into that category too. Most people don't have the ability to paint their car, let alone the shop or garage space either. Plus, painting tends to have a steep learning curve as there's many components to prep work, materials, equipment, technique, etc. I agree, I'm not a fan of the Yellow, but a refreshed original paint job will look better than it does now, and it will be cheaper than completely changing the color to something different. Based on shops in my area, a complete color change (with no additional body work or part replacement) would start at $5k and go up from there. To some that's no big deal, to others like me, I can't round up that kind of cash and I'm not interested in taking out a loan. If you kept the Yellow, it would likely be less than $5k, again assuming no body work or new parts.
I'll put your idea on the list, it might be good to do a quick video like you are looking for. :)
Great tips their my man . Enjoyed watching you vid . ( even though I don’t have a classic )
Glad you enjoyed. It's not too late, there's probably one for sale in your area. :)
were you able to just simply swap out for theled bulbs in the dash?
After trying different brands, I found that SuperBrightLED not only had the best price, but they fit great and had a great build quality. I plan to replace the bulbs on my new car and I will definitely use that company again. :)
I was with you for the first eight in more or less a similar order, but the last two I would have traded out to rack and pinion steering, and prothane or similar performance bushings for the suspension since this seemed to be a list of things to do to improve your Classic mustang.
Power steering could be on the list, but it requires other compromises that I was not willing to make.
But, respectfully, I have to disagree with the prothane bushings. Any kind of urethane bushing will introduce a harshness to the ride quality that cannot be removed with fancy shocks. If someone was building a full racecar, then absolutely make the upgrade. But for a car that spends most of its time on the streets, stiffer "performance" bushings become tiresome very quickly. I'm trying to find that balance between realistic drivability and track performance. For me, that does not include those bushings. :)
What about the ball and socket steering box?Mine came out back in the eighties Coming from a bar. I turned the wheels all the way home. I made it though though.😅 Called the steering brain box I was a teenager when it happened
I don't think I've heard of that one.
Excellent list! I am working on the rewire of mine now, it is not my favorite part of a restoration or restomod.
While the rewire is not very fun, it will make your life a lot easier down the road. I need to do the same thing. :)
Awesome video, man. Bought a '67 with a 289 hipo... Do you have the parts list for the front disc brake conversion? Getting new wheels and tires soon and those drums need to go!
Read the description. Nvm! :)
No problem. :)
Great List!
Thanks!
Andy. Excellent video. Question. Where did you get the front lower dam or spoiler.
Thanks!
That front spoiler was on the car when I bought it. However, that's the "normal" style spoiler for the 65-66 Mustang, lots of places sell it like Ebay or Summit Racing.
Replace the primitive non-integral power steering with a Borgeson setup, but don't go rack and pinion if it reduces turning radius. There's so much more that can be done with the suspension with stuff from Chris Alston's Chassis Works, but it's megabucks and not justified unless you're auto crossing.
I would add the repro Rotunda chrome bullet mirrors.
There are cheap and simple things to do to get the car well sorted like putting your wiring thru a grommet on the firewall, and using the 1970 plastic battery clamp instead of the earlier plasti-dipped metal clamp.
If the spliced up under dash harness is a concern, Alloy Metal brand will solve that, Mr. Mustang brand is cheaper, but I didn't use them on my Mach 1.
Yeah, there's lots of good things we can do to our Mustangs, but limiting it to only 10 can be difficult, especially when there's some really good options out there. :)
Thanks for the extra info. I got also 66 coupe , and couple of items I want to change and I would like to know where you got the wires for you tile lights? I would start with that. Thanks
Awesome, I'm glad these videos are able to help you with your project. :)
All are great ideas. Question. How do like the quickjack?
Thanks!
It's great and it's not. Meaning, I love the 20" or so clearance I get under the car, it's tough to do that with regular floor jacks, and if you're working on the front or rear of the car it's great. But when the car is one the Jacks, you cannot enter from the side or middle of the car. I had done quite a bit of work on the trans and stuff in the middle of the car over the past year and using the Quickjack made it difficult to get to the area I wanted. I'm glad I have them and I would buy them again if I needed to because putting a regular lift in my garage is not realistic. But there's been a lot of times where I just used the conventional floor jacks.
Awesome video and great info!
Glad it was helpful!
Excited to watch this one! All your content is great, a lot of its super helpful too!
Awesome, thank you!
@@AndyKruseChannel just finished the video, great list. you may have just pushed me into some disks up front! really like your radiator and your overflow that I saw in another upload. definitely gonna copy you there! keep em coming sir, I'll be here to watch! thanks for the upload!
@@StankyPete9 A good set of front Disc Brakes can go a long way, but don't forget about the Brake Master Cylinder too. :)
A 351 Cleveland engine will fit right in there !
Sure, but those Cleveland heads will make it extremely tight. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel
For Real I did not know that ! Does the Cleveland fit better in some models / years than others ? I got all spoiled seeing SBCs with 283s quickly allowing a 383 Stroker ! Just another reason for the Popularity of the SBC !
Thanks for the info is a good advice...
Glad it was helpful!
I’m looking into doing the front disc conversion. Did you have to install a master cylinder that was for disc brakes. I was told my original two reservoir master cylinder won’t work because it’s designed for drum brakes?
No, I was using a standard OEM-type dual bowl MC on that car, and I'm using the same thing on my current Mustang. An aftermarket unit, like something from Wilwood, would be nice to have, but not required.
Dual master brake cylinder with booster if budget allows . Suspension has to be in top condition !! 1 inch drop of LCA is a must ! A stiffer roll bare in front !! Wiring has to be in top shape otherwise replace !!! Rad OK but certainly a shroud and clutch fan is a must. LED taillights is a must and even H4 headlights powered through relais. At least !!!
Nice list.
Andy do you have a part number for the instrument cluster LED lights?
All I have for the Dash Lights is the bulb style which is 1895. If you go to SuperbrightLED.com and type that size in, you'll be able to pick from different colors, brightness, and the intensity of the light beam (narrow vs wide). Their site is fantastic and I'd go that route again if I had to. :)
Hey I know this is kinda late to the party lol, but have a quick question for any and all that would know the answer.
I have a 68 289 with 3.25.1 rear gearing, would a t5 transmission work (for just street driving) until I can get something like 3.73 gears? Also, awesome video thanks for everything you put out, its a massive help!
There is nothing wrong with using those 3.25 gears until you are in a position to upgrade. The advantage of lower gears (numerically higher) is quicker acceleration, but at the cost of higher RPMs at cruising speed. Meaning, cruising around in 5th gear with the 3.25 rear end will be about 500 RPM lower than when you swap in the 3.73 gear. If all you ever plan to do is just cruise around, you might find it difficult to swap a lower rear end since you may never take advantage of the gearing. Plus, there's nothing incompatible with the T5 and the 3.25 gearing you have in your car right now. :)
Thank you! Very very much appreciated! Your awesome man!
Can you please add a link to your console?
Great videos, keep them going.
Thanks!
I got the Console from CJPony Parts. It's part # CON5-V
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks!
Love your new ride.
I have a 68 coupe, but love the fast backs!
Keep up the videos!
Jim from Atlanta
I just bought a 64 1/2 or 65 Mustang GT, 289 4bbl, 4speed, 4.11 rear end and front disc brakes
How many GT did Ford make?
How do you find out how much it is worth?
Did you ever think about painting your garage floor with the garage epoxy paint for garage at Home Depot. I did it for my neighbor and he loves it.
Thanks
Congrats on your new purchase. Around 15,000 GTs were made in 1965. Determining its worth is tough, there are so many factors that even basic websites can be wrong given all the variable. The best place is to see what they're selling for in your area and go from there. I've thought about painting the floor, but it's way low on the priority list. :)
First for me is a dual master cylinder. Electronic ignition is a must. The basic Pertronics is good. I have had it on my 65 and 67 for 20 years and no problems. I have Mustang II consoles in both cars. They fit and have an armrest and storage compartment. Harder to find these days though. Halogen headlights are a good upgrade and are not expensive. 2057 tail light bulbs are brighter than standard 1157. Adding a third brake light is also good. Ebay has LED ones for not much.
Yes, that dual MC is super critical now that they're really cheap and provide that extra safety cushion for braking. I've put that Pertronix (model no. 1281) in all my Mustangs and have never looked back. I've got so spoiled by that piece of magic that I probably could set up the points on a car if I needed to. :)
Question, you have aftermarket radiator AND an electric fan. Was overheating a problem with just the radiator?
Yes, a little bit. I was not happy with the shroud I installed, and I had bigger plans for my setup before I sold that car. Putting that new radiator and electric fan in the car was partially for future mods I never did. However, I did the same thing (but with a bigger radiator) with my current car, and I am finding that I still have some head room with my larger Rad and Fan, so I guess that means I need to make more power!! :)
Hi i am about to buy a Mustang 1966 ( its my first time ) and i took many videos beneath the car and inside the engine.. saw some dust here and there.. and interior seems decent.. can i share with u the videos and get ur advise of will i need to do if i purchase this car… just want be sure on the future expenses required for the car and if anything is alarming ! 🙏🏻🙏🏻☺️
It's awesome you're in a position to buy a classic Mustang, but the price and value of any Mustang can be all over the map. It's difficult to see from a video how good a car really is, meaning some things can't easily be seen through a camera. The feel of something or it's relationship to other parts is difficult to convey in a video. No Mustang is beyond repair, it's just how much money do you want to sink into it. Determine if your able to do any of the repairs/replacements/upgrades yourself and buy the car that is the nicest one you can afford. Meaning, if you're not a body/paint guy, but you can turn a wrench, then buy the car with the nicest, straightest body and paint.
Dust is not a bad thing, as long as it's not inside the carburetor. A dirty car is not always representative of the condition of the car nor how well the previous owner took care of the car.
Ask lots of questions, and get them to point out the stuff on the car that needs addressing. Find out what doesn't work and find out what has been repaired/replaced and why. Ask them if anything is on "it's way out" so that you can take care of it sooner than later.
Lastly, make sure it has a title, because not every state is easy to work with untitled or lost titled cars, this may be a headache you don't want.
Good luck!! :)
Whats the parte number for the Dash led lights? Superbrightleds.
For this car I used their LED replacement bulbs that were the 1895 size, part number BA9S-WW4-32-12VAC. But in my current Mustang I now use a better version they sell, part number BA9S-WW-120-12VAC. :)
Scott Drake has halogen light replacement that look Orem.
Yeah, I thought those, but I think the Holley lights might be better. :)
Cj pony parts also
what vacuum hose do you have hooked up to the front of your carb ? Also what size wheels do you have in the back?
The vacuum line is connected the Vacuum Advance setup on my distributor. The wheels are American Racing, Torque Thrust, 15x7, 4" backspacing (0.0" offset), part number VN3095765.
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you sir! I was watching this and realized I had one of my line incorrect. I appreciate the response
Where did you buy the Center counsel?
I purchased it from CJ Pony Parts, model number CON5B. :)
What’s the fan shroud you’re using?
I bought it off eBay. :)
HI Andy, Great video buddy, I am starting with a 68 Fastback, Would you mind to let me know what kind of secuential lighting did you buy? was there any special wiring to it?
Thanks!
The tail lights on that car were from CJ Pony Parts. The equivalent light setup for your car would be part number TLLED103, but be sure to buy two of them, and then you'll need the flasher upgrade for you lighting which is part number HW2811. There's no wire cutting or splicing, it's purely plug and play. On the back of the LED lights is a switch where you can select sequential or standard. Good luck! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks man appreciated.
what is the benefit of that spacer on the carb?
They say it adds torque because of the longer runner length (it's only an inch), but it also isolates the carb from the hot intake manifold. If the hot intake manifold were to heat up the carb, it could affect performance by heating the air and fuel in the carb. Does it make a difference on my relatively stock car? I don't know, I haven't put the car on the dyno to see.
Also, by raising the carb up an inch, it creates more room below it to route the fuel line, heater hoses, and helps to ensure the choke linkage isn't touching anything. :)
Andy looking to put in t5 in my 66. With the mustang being a smaller car. Do you feel there’s adequate room on the floor to be moving your feet around for the clutch and stuff. Weird question. Just debating on AOD vs T5. Put 3.55 in rear after watching your video.
Plenty of room. Converting an Auto to a Manual in these cars require a few more parts (check out my recent videos of swapping a C4 Auto for T5 in my current car), but it doesn't take any more space than the cars that came with a manual from the factory. I've got large feet and find I have plenty of room under the dash. If a T5 swap is in the budget, I'd recommend it all day long over the C4 or AOD. I can appreciate the "care free cruising" that an Auto provides, but a manual in these cars is far superior.
3:55 gears are a perfect blend for those that want a little pickup down low, but realistic RPMs on the highway. Just make sure you get the T5 with the 2.95 1st gear, not the 3.35 1st gear. If you get the later, 1st gear is almost too short, almost unusable. It gets worse with the 3.35 1st gear if you decide to throw 3:80 gears in the back. :)
Appreciate the response! Keep up the good work
I have a 65, what's the best suspension? Mine sags in the back, so would like to level it out.
Just getting new leaf springs will help liven up the rear. If you’re looking for something stiffer, you can check out some 4.5 leaf or 5 leaf springs. If you want to get lower springs, mid-eye leafs will provide about a 1 inch lowering, and reverse-eye leafs will yield about a 2 inch drop.
new gas tank,and electronic ignition is a must on your classic.
Yeah, getting rid of the Points system is a great upgrade, I should have added that. 😁
Nice build check out Stella the 65 mustang fore some more upgrades, you have a beautiful ride….
Thanks, will do!
Great video!!!!
Thanks!!
Would the 3.55 be a good match for the C4 tranny? I dont do any freeway driving.
If you're never on the highway, or rarely travel at 60+, then I think shorter gears might be more fun. Maybe check out what 3.80 or 4.11 might do for you. There are websites that allow you to put in your gear ratios to see what the RPM would be for a given speed. The bigger the number, the faster you will accelerate, but it comes at the cost of reaching higher RPMs sooner in each gear. They say shorter gears (numerically higher) are more fun to drive, but it can be less fun when you're cruising at higher speeds and you're at 4000 RPM going down the highway. :)
Hello,
Where did you go to for your interior? I want to duplicate that for my mustang restore project.
Which parts are you referring to? The enter console is from CJ Pony Parts, as well as the door cards. The seats and carpet were already in the car when I bought it. The radio delete plate was purchased off ebay. That's about it. :)
What size exhaust pipes? I have 2inch on mine. I just got underneath fully tonight (just bought it!). Looks like summit racing mufflers from what I can tell... I want to change for the Flowmasters. And go X pipe. What engine do you have?
I have JBA Shorty Headers (1650S) with a JBA H-Pipe (1650SH) that is 2.5 inch. The mufflers are 2.5 inch but my exhaust guy had a hard time making the 2.5 exit tubes fit in between the gas tank and leaf springs because of the location in the lower valence where the exit comes through. So they're 2.25 inch from the mufflers back. The 2.5 inch tubes are absolutely overkill for my relatively stock 289. But I have some different plans so hopefully the 2.25 inch pieces will be the bottle neck. Stock-ish motors in these cars are happier with 2 inch exhaust.
Unless you're sure, you should check into the X-pipe sound. It tends to give more of a raspy sound and less of a rumble sound. I wouldn't say it sounds bad, and there's some car that only sound good with an X-pipe, but I think the rumble sounds better on these older motors. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for the response! So sounds like keeping my H pipe 2 inch setup is the way to go. But upgrade the mufflers to something better sounding.
Did you upgrade your cam? I am looking at doing that. Love the sound and hear it can add some power.
@@atylerpearce I never opened the motor on this car, so I don't know if the cam was stock or if a previous owner upgraded it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel it sounds amazing. Mine isn't close to that. Maybe better mufflers would do it.
In the theme of safety have you considered head rests ?
Yes, but that kind of upgrade is a little farther down the mod list.
You never talked about the issues with motor mounts. The stock motor mounts are notorious for blowing out and separating the engine from the frame of the car. It happened to me in 1972. The engine hit the radiator and the battery. I had water, antifreeze and battery acid all very the engine, wires and engine compartment. What a mess. People need to know this, especially if you are doing things to add more power.
Thanks for the heads up.
Was that a Cleetus McFarland key Tag? Well fire me up!
Absolutely! Love those guys, trying to support them in a small way. :)
Just being curious
How much does it cost fair condition car like this one?
Depends on lots of factors like location of car, combinations of mods on the car, overall condition, and even the color. The last can easily drive the price up or down, depending on all sorts of factors like popularity, condition, rarity, and if it's some crazy color that was never offered on the Mustang. This particular car had over $13k in parts, upgrades, and replacements, and that doesn't count for any labor as it was done by me (not some fab shop or restoration shop), and I'd say the car was not finished or it still had lots of parts and pieces that still needed to be reviewed. Prices have gone up since this car was built, so replicating everything on this car could easily cost over $15k, but you still need to buy the car. I imagine that it would be difficult to find this car, in this condition and with these upgrades, for less than $25k. In the last year or so the prices of these cars has come down a little bit, so that would help, but some people still think they're sitting on a $50k payday, which just isn't going to happen. :)
where'd you buy the console? I've been looking for one for ages, can't find one under $250
I purchased it from CJ Pony Parts. Part number CON5B.
well the transmissions don't last forever anyway so running nitrous is popular. I only had an LX, my father had the GT (different state). I like the lightweight body and pinky finger steering but I had a rear wheel drive convertible in the iowa winters. It actually was improved because the weight was in the back from the convertible motor and design. I guess that's how GM knew I could drive 50 in the mods. My grandfather (on my mother's side) worked for a GM company when he got back from ww2. I think that confuses sherlock who has never seen pluralities.
Wow, there's a lot to unpack there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel really? where will you go with it?
What size are the wheels on the Mustang? Thanks.
They are American Racing Torq Thrust wheels, sized 15x7, with 3.75" backspacing (part number VN3095765). The tires are BF Goodrich Radial T/A, sized 225/60/15, all four. For what it's worth, I wish I had these on my current Mustang and not the 16" wheels I have now.
@@AndyKruseChannel Many thanks Andy. I'm in Australia and about to upgrade from the original wheels on my '66 convertible. I'm reliably informed that the originals will be 14 inch and that I should go up to 15 x 7 wheels. I'd value your thoughts on this subject.
I think the original wheels were 14x6, which is fine for someone that wants an all original car, or only plans to go to the grocery store. But if we want any kind of performance from our cars, we need to step up the width for better tire options, and that usually requires the wheel size to increase too (because of the tires available today). Further, if an owner wanted to upgrade their front drums to discs, they're usually stuck with getting 15 inch or larger wheels (although Wilwood makes a front discs that works with many 14 inch wheels). On the car in this video, I upgraded to these 15x7 wheels and I was happy with the outcome. I think the look is good and there were no fitment issues. On my current car, I wanted more performance oriented tires and I was very, very limited on what I could get in 15 inch tires sizes within the limited range of widths that fit these cars. Therefore, I was forced to get 16 inch wheels, which I'm not as wild about, in the looks department, but I get the performance I was after.
In your scenario, if performance is not the top of the list, I'd recommend 15 inch wheels, like what I have in this video. I think they look better than 16 inch wheels, and I think the specific model I mentioned in my earlier reply was the better version of the Torq Thrust wheels. The spokes on those wheels are straight and they look more like the magnesium wheels that could be purchased in the 60s. Most of the Torq Thrust wheels today have a slight curve to the spoke (which allows for clearance of most calipers), and my current 16 inch wheels have that same dumb curve.
If I could get the performance tires I want in a 15 inch size, I'd go back to those 15 inch wheels in a heart beat. :)
Add suspension yes!!!
Yeah, one of my favorite parts! 🙂
What temperature thermostat do you use?
I have been using a 180 degree thermostat. I don't have the car in this video anymore, but in my current Mustang, I am still using a 180 degree thermostat, but I also have a larger 24" radiator and electric fans. :)
Thanks@@AndyKruseChannel
What tire and wheel set up do you have?
That car had American Racing Torq Thrust wheels, sized 15x7, with 3.75" backspacing, part number VN3095765. The tires are BFGoodrich Radial T/A, sized 225/60/15. :)
What front valance kit is that?
I don't know for certain, it was on the car when I bought it. However, I have seen lots of cars from the Trans-Am era with those same lower spoilers. I've also seen them installed at various angles, where some looked more aggressive than others.
were did you get the center console from?
CJ Pony Parts, part number CON5-V.
Thank You !
11 new wiring harness good insurance against electrial fire!
Yeah, that’s a good item to put on the list, I’ve wanted to do a whole wiring harness. 🙂
Put the bigger diameter air filter. You’ll make a bit more power
On that car I was limited by the Shelby style hood. The filter sits up inside the scoop and almost touches. A bigger filter would not let the hood close. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel did you try the filter bottom that drops it down like an inch to give the extra clearance? I use it on mine with the same hood and have no issues
@@dustinjenkins1709 No, but I probably could have. Unfortunately I don't have that car anymore to make the change. However, my new car ('66 Fastback) ironically came with the same filter. I don't have the same issue with fitment and it's on my list to explore new filters. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel motor trend did dyno tests on all of them. You should Google that
Would this make a good first car for an 18 year old? Plan on learning how to work on cars and don't want to spend more than $15k to get the car, have it run well, and run reasonable. Is this possible and a good idea? I am new to these cars
I think the knowledge that can be learned from working on these cars can be valuable for decades to come, but the cost to entry is pretty steep. Finding a classic Mustang for $15k or less will likely mean the car needs a lot of work. Fixing and replacing a lot of the common parts and pieces that have worn out over the last 60 years can be done with minimal tools and not much money, individually. But it can also get expensive, especially if you're wanting to upgrade to better and/or shinier parts. There is a simplicity that comes with these cars electrically, meaning most people can fix something with usually just a TH-cam video. But electrical gremlins can plague someone in more modern cars and cause people to pull their hair out because it might not always be obvious what's going on.
If purchasing a classic Mustang was for someone's secondary vehicle, it may make better sense. Due to what someone could reasonably get for $15k these days, that car will likely need another $5k-$10k to be a reliable daily driver, and this probably doesn't include making it look nice (like paint). Good luck!! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for your advice! I will probably look into the car when I have more money. Any cool reliable and easy to work on cars for about $10k? is an L98 powered C4 corvette a good idea too?
@@kareemestwani2400 I would imagine you could get into one of those Corvettes for less than a classic Mustang, and for your budget it would probably be in slightly better shape, allowing you to use it as a daily too. As awesome as it is to have a classic Mustang, unfortunately the price for these cars has gone up so much in the last 10 years that it makes it difficult for someone new to the hobby or with less funds to buy one and join the fun. Just make sure whatever car you pick is the one you want. There's nothing worse than wanting to work on a car and play in this sand box only to have it be with a car you wish you never bought. :)
Andy, love your videos. I have a 66 as well. How did you do your rear end gear ratio change? Did you just change the ring and pinion, or did you change the whole third member?
You also have made my mind up about the T5 swap. My car is currently a C4 and I’ve been debating a long time. I’m swapping after seeing how simple it is on your video.
I removed the Third Member and took it to a local shop to have them swap over the gears and set the lash. I just don't have the tools to do this job and it's one of those things that I'm not comfortable assembling (I'd rather rebuild a motor). Once I got the Third Member back, I installed it in the car myself. I've got a video on that.
For the T5 swap, it's amazingly simple once you see everything laid out. Since you're swapping from an Auto to the T5, I recommend the hydraulic clutch actuation. I've got a video on how to install the components in the car while everything is still in place. If you choose to do the external slave cylinder mounted to the bellhousing (from MDL), it's a little easier to install while you have the bellhousing out during the whole T5 swap. I've installed the T5 on two separate Mustangs (and videos for both), but if you're able to do it, get the 1983-1993 T5 for your swap, as the later years require extra parts and pieces to make it work (I cover that in my video). Good luck, you've got this!!
Where did you buy your arm rest?
CJ Pony Parts - part number CON5-V
I'd say locking seat backs and shoulder belt system, maybe seats that have shoulder belts built in. Steel plate to block gas from coming inside the back seat if in an accident. Safety is a big deal, the stock seats and lap belts are a death wish.
Yeah, there's a lot of things people can do to their cars, and everyone has different priorities of what to do first. :)
What electric fan are you using?
It was a generic unit I purchased off Ebay. 16 inch diameter, 3000 cfm, and it included the relay kit, all for about $45. The aluminum shroud was separate, about $85 and it was made to fit the size of radiator I had. Not a custom shroud, but I found one that was made for that model of radiator. :)
What rear end did you go with? What was the total cost?
I purchased a kit from Quick Performance that included the Trac-Lok Diff and the 3.55:1 gear (it also included all the bearings and seals too) for about $500. I removed the third member and took it to a local shop to have them swap out the guts of the third member to the new parts for about $300. I also had to buy a new speedo gear, axle seals, and some oil. That whole project was about $960. I made a video about it, it's on my channel, you should check it out! :)
Super clean 🐎🚗💯😍💪🔧🇺🇲
Thanks 💯
Nice car bro 👌 👍
Thanks ✌️
Yo what front lip do you have?
Sorry Boss, I don't know which lip it is as it was on the car when I bought it. :)
My worst mistake was letting mine sit too long. Absolutely the worst for any car. Simply run it once a week if you can. It will save tons of headaches.
Yeah, it’s good to keep those seals wet. 🙂
How about a new throttle rod?
Not sure what you're asking here?
You should make a list of things not to do to any classic car.
I did a "ten things I hate", does that count?
You forgot the shelby drop, it's free too.
Yeah, that is a good one and I had a few more. I probably should redo the list, I've learned a few things since then and figured out maybe a slightly better build path. :)
1 thing to do for my classic mustang : Get it running
Step one.... :)
What about safer seats with headrests?
I would consider them as much of a necessary safety upgrade as disc brakes and dual cylinders. BTW I'm British and well into my 60's. (Excuse an old soldier reminiscing.)
th-cam.com/video/Gt78aQ15VfE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheGrandTour
So I remember low seat backs well and cars without seatbelts. My first car was an older second hand Ford Cortina MK2 1600E back in 1977. (Look it up.) Given to me by my parents. It had nice big back bench seats for a young single man and his girlfriends, if you get the drift.
First thing I did was buy some bucket/racing front seats with headrests. Even though it was more a comfort car than a performance thing. I did it for safety reasons and they cost a small fortune back then! Especially having them re-upholstered in leather with more padding to match the plush rear bench. Good job my uncle owned an upholstery business.
I was heart broken when the car was stolen, crashed and burnt beyond repair. I still am if truth be told. I can't remember much about my first girlfriends but I recall everything about my first car in great full colour detail.
Live to drive. Drive to live!
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I would daily drive this till i die
Sounds like a plan. :)
Why do you think disc brakes are safer? They are less complicated and cooldown a little faster. Thats it.
That's it? What about F x D = T? The larger the rotor, the more stopping torque, the faster the vehicle stops. Also, the clamping force on an object will be stronger than a pushing force. But if you prefer to have a vehicle with Drum Brakes, you do you. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I will look into that. I guess a larger drum would achieve the same thing but with a lot more weight
is there a place to take my car to rewire it entirely?
That depends on where you live as larger cities and urban areas will have more shops that can do that kind of work. Your typical mechanic/car repair place are not likely to be setup for that kind of work. Part of the issue is rewiring a car can be time consuming and most shops can’t have a car sit for a long time while the wiring gets completed. You might look into doing it yourself as you can buy all the tools and watch a few videos on what to do, and it will save you a ton of money in the end.
I’m thinking about redoing the wiring and I will definitely do it myself. 😁
Please get a new stearing column. Rhose old colums will take your head off.😊
I don’t have that car anymore. New car (fastback) now has an Ididit tilt column.