Installing Long Tube Headers in a 1966 Mustang
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2021
- It was time to replace the crappy headers that my car came with when I bought it. Those headers had problems that was not worth dealing with. I found a great deal on some Summit Racing headers and I couldn't resist!
I replaced these during the installation of the T5 trans in my car, which worked out great because the old headers would not have worked with the new Clutch Cable I also had to install.
Long Tube, Ceramic Coated, Summit Racing Headers: # SUM-9131
The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
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#Mustang
#1966 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for getting back to me and yes, that was exactly what I thought. I’d love to get long tubes but will probably have to settle with shorties so I don’t have that same stress. I appreciate it!
No worries!
Oh yes! I remember switching from an exhaust manifold to long tube headers. Such a difference in sound. Love it!!
I wish those headers fit better, I might have looked getting those again on the Fastback.
Header buddies are the way to go on the collector end I use them on all my stuff.
I haven't heard of those, I'll have to check them out.
A thicker flange is key, the flange is subjected to high heat, this can cause an exhaust leak if the flange bends. A thicker flange is definingly a good thing. I went with Hedman Hedders shorties that are ceramic coated. The install went well thanks to videos like this and I am very pleased with the outcome. Thanks Andy and Thumbs Up on the video.
Thanks for the info!
Great video. You're right they look just like the Hooker Super Comp headers.
When you get it welded, you might want to consider having a oxygen sensor / wideband bung added to the exhaust. It's something I wished I did when I first put together my exhaust. You can always put a plug in it for now and add a sensor later if you choose to.
I already got the exhaust completed, but that's a good idea to do. :)
A couple last notes, my installation notes recommended Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket which is a HI-Temp sealant. Not sure if that depends on the type of gasket you use but I applied the spray prior to the installation. Also, good job starting to tighten in the center and moving outwards. According to the installation instructions this is the best way to install the product. Lucky me I have a 68 so the engine bay is just a little bit wider so that extra room makes a big difference. Oh, remember to remove the spark plugs that will make everything much easier.
Yeah, people have different preferences to gasket types. :)
Andy, can you post a video that captures a summary of everything you’ve done? How are the gears after you broke them in, how is the transmission, how are the headers, etc. Appreciate all your hard work! Keep them coming.
I have been wanting to make that video for quite a while, but then I keep adding more parts. However, I'll been doing one in a bit, probably something like 10 things I love and 10 things I hate, or something like that. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Outstanding, looking forward to it! I have a ‘65 and I get a lot of knowledge/confidence for doing upgrades myself from watching your videos. I commend your patience and restrained language, or great editing skills! Ha. Of note, I am very curious to hear if you can come up with 10 things you hate. Lol. Thanks for the response - I know you’re busy.
@@rjohnson6226 Thanks for the feedback! I promise that the language has gotten bad, I just have to edit that out. I've made some mistakes and even broken stuff during the install. My patience has been tested on this project, but we crack on! :)
I'll give you a freebie - I hate the mirrors on these cars. We are spoiled to have the type and style of mirrors on today's cars, so getting in the Hotrod stresses me out because I can't see around me through my mirrors as well. :)
Nice video, glad you don’t have power steering. I just pulled the Tri-Y’s off of my 65 Convertible, did not fit well. Nice looking Pony you have. Update the video and let us know how it drives after you see the exhaust man?
Thanks!! I have a few videos coming out in the next few weeks that talks about the likes and dislikes of my car. Stay tuned! :)
JBA or Doug's Headers, stainless steel. The thicker the flange and thicker the steel the better.
Buy a set of ARP 12pt. 5/16" heads and you will save yourself lots of time installing or disassembling.
Ok
The funny thing is that I bought the patriot try-y headers for my 66 with a 289 and also the mdl clutch cable and the cable also touched quite a lot... I had to give it some love and bend the headers a little. Now, I am worried because the cable is not that straight even with the headers dented. I had to use a clamp and tie the cable out a little... the pedal feels I guess ok... idk, have not driven it yet... but if this does not work... then it's going to either new headers (maybe shorter) or new style clutch...
It's hard to tell without looking at your setup, but if the cable rests or is extremely close to the headers, it's game over. I could skip leg day at the Gym (at least for the left leg) because of hard it was to move the cable when I pressed the clutch peddle. Not only did I melt the outside jacket of the cable, whatever is on the inside is melted too. After taking the cable off the car I could not move the cable back and forth in the sheath like I could before the install. I had to ditch the cable for the hydraulic option (video coming soon-ish).
Knowing what I know, I would have kept the cable option and gone with Shorty style headers. In the end it would have been cheaper and simpler. I'm happy with the hydraulic clutch, but it came at an expense and some headache. Plus, shorties are probably a better fit for my engine mods at this time. :)
FWIW, the cable doesn't need to be straight to work, it just can't rest against or near the header tubes, the heat is too much for the cable.
@@AndyKruseChannel I used a screw and a clamp to move it aside and hopefully that makes it not burn hahaha. I also plan to wrap the headers with that heat wrap, and also the clutch cable (bc why not). Hopefully that works. :)
Can't wait to see the hydrolic video.
Great Video, Would have been awesome if you have tried how the sound was.
I saved that for other videos, it's how I get them to come back! :)
Hey Andy, how did you go about lifting the motor up? Did you just loosen the motor mount bolt, put a wooden block on the oil pan and use a floor jack to lift the motor up? Or did you have to undo all the hoses, transmission, etc and use an engine hoist to lift the motor up to install the headers? I’m currently installing headers and ran into a snag on the drivers side. I’ve tried everything except for lifting the motor up.
Unbolting the motor mount and lifting it from below with a jack is the easiest way to gain the clearance you need. The only thing you'll want to be mindful of is if you have a fan shroud mounted to the radiator and the fan (mounted to your water pump) getting jammed up inside the shroud. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel sounds good, thank you for the speedy reply! I’ll give that a try right now!
How low did these headers hang? I’d like to do long tube on my 68 289 but have searches all over the place. Thanks for the content!
I don't have that car anymore so I can't measure them, but they were lower than I was comfortable with. That car was also lowered, so it made me anxious every time I entered a parking lot, worried I would scrape them. The look and fit was fantastic, just too low for my liking.
If it's in the budget, I'd recommend FPA headers, or Doug's. Both of those are Tri-Y headers, but look, fitment, and performance are all top shelf with those units. :)
How is your ground clearance with these? Is your car stock right height?
I have a 66 with the 1” Shelby dropped arms in the front and wondering if I should be concerned about it.
Ground clearance is not great, I've scraped at least once, and I'm super conscious of it while driving. The car is lowered with springs (cut 3/4 of coil off) and I did the Shelby Mod (check out the videos of those on my channel :) ) to bring it down more.
The headers fit great, look awesome, sound good, and the build quality is fantastic. But they hang soooo low that I would not recommend them for people with lowered cars. I only have them because I got a great deal on them. If I was doing things again, I would pick a different brand, purely on the fact they hang down so low. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel My '66 is stock ride height (basically - I recently swapped out the worn out stock springs with 1" lowering springs, so ride height didn't change). I have a set of Hedman 88308's and you can see flange hanging down when you stand away from the car. They hang down way too low and I've scraped them at least a few times.
Hey Andy great vid, how was ground clearance with these headers?
These headers hung lower than what I would have liked. I was fortunate to not drag them on anything, but I sold that car less than six months after I did the install, so I don't know how they would have done since then. I really liked the fitment and build quality, but they were a little too low for my lowered car. :)
@Andy Kruse I just ordered a set off summit and did not even think about clearance till they shipped today, the price is good and I hear they are good quality
Did you notice anything performance difference between the old and new headers, sound?
I have not noticed a performance difference, but I've been changing so many parts on this car is a short amount of time that this car feels completely different than when I bought it a year ago, but I can't point to a specific part. The sound is better, but from the point of view that the other headers might have still had small leaks.
I have a 67 mustang with a 302 and I’m trying to decide what type of headers I should get I’m still new to the whole car scene should I go with short or long headers? I have a flow master exhaust on it as well what are the main big differences ? Thanks
Most people won’t see gains from long tube headers on a stock or relatively stock 302 engine. They’re there, but it’ll be at higher rpm’s and/or with engine mods. Unless you’re trying to win awards or unless you’re trying to build a road worthy track car, you likely won’t notice the gains from long tube or tri-y headers over something like shorties. Shorties will also likely be easier to fit in the vehicle because sometimes there are fitment issues with larger headers and the transmission in the car. If budget was less of an issue, I’d recommend FPA headers. Try to stay away from the cheaper eBay headers as there can be fitment issues as well as build quality issues. Good luck!! 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel wow thanks man I really appreciate the response I’ll look into those FPA headers thanks again !
Do you know if these clear factory power steering?
Sorry Boss, I don't know that. These particular headers hang down fairly low, so it's tough to tell by looking at them if there would be enough clearance. :)
did the try y headers touched the clutch cable?
I put these headers on before I installed the clutch cable, so I don't know how it would have fit. These headers fit really nice and looked fantastic, but because they interfered with the clutch cable (and they hung too low under the car), I'm not sure I would recommend these to someone in the same situation. If someone had the Z-bar or the hydraulic clutch (or the C4), then I'd say take a look at them. But they still hung down too low for my liking, so....... :)
Andy, is it better to install the headers while the engine is out of the car?
Great question. It's easier, but depending on the header primary tube design, it can be difficult to put the motor back in the car with them attached. All Shorty style headers can be installed without lifting the motor off the motor mounts. Most Tri-Y headers can be done this way too. However, some 4-1 headers need the motor lifted off the mounts to get them to fit during install. I had this issue with these headers, but it didn't take too much effort.
@@AndyKruseChannel its actually long tube headers for 289. What do you suggest?
@@gamwsas If the motor is already out, I'd install the headers because of how easy it is to do with the motor out. When you are installing the motor, just be mindful of the shock tower clearances as you continue through the install. If you find it won't fit, pull off the headers and install them with the motor still hanging from the cherry picker, but before you do the final drop onto the engine mounts. :)
On a side note, I recommend Remflex gaskets for your headers.
Andy that Z bracket you took off would that be there with my Automatic, no car yet so just wondering
The Zbar is only on manual cars. It’s part of the clutch linkage. On your C4, check to make sure the kick-down lever is installed. If not, you may want to check that out.
Oh for some reason when they modified that 302 and boosted at horsepower they put brand new stock manifolds on sale for some reason they didn’t want to put the headers kickdown linkage I’ll have to look that up I’m not sure what that is talking about for passing gear on my 40 Ford it was up at the Edelbrock carb
@@jatalberg The kickdown linkage goes from the trans (near where the shifting linkage can be found) to the throttle linkage. It's not required, your car will run fine without it, it's just there to help the trans know what gear to be in based off your throttle use. You'll be fine without it.
Appreciate it thanks I got my wooden steering wheel in today and I’ll be sure to not have a Dremel lol now all I Gotta do is get my car next week
Is the sound any different?
Different? Yes. Better? Yes, because I think the old headers still had some holes in them. Looking back, I should have done a before and after with the exhaust sound. Darn it! :)
How far would you say those hang below your frame rails?
Roughly 1-1/2 to 2 inches. Definitely not ideal for a lowered car. On a stock-height car, it's not as critical because you'd naturally have more ground clearance anyway, so scraping them is less likely to happen.
They were a good header, fitment was good, but they hung too low for my taste. That's why I didn't go with them again on my current car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel you did JBA on the new one roght?
Yeah, I was able to get a great deal on them so I snatched them up. I wanted (and still want) to get FPA Headers, but they're just not in the budget, so I had to settle for the Shorties. Some day, but until then these shorties do the job. :)
Was there a transmission swap during this header swap?
Yes there was! :)
I made two videos on it before the header video came out.
@@AndyKruseChannel I was really hoping to see how they fit with the Z-bar.
@@bryanmulligan5319 The Z-bar would have easily cleared the primary tubes, if I would have still used it. The design of the tubes are purely made to work with the Z-bar and the clearance that bar needs for full operation. These headers would have fit the Z-bar better than the headers I had on there before. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel awesome, thank you.
I am new to your channel do you own a coupe and a fastback mustang?
Ha, I wish I could have kept all my cars over the years. I originally had a '66 Coupe (red), I only had a few short videos of that car. Then I had another '66 Coupe, the white one in my older videos. Now I have a white ''66 Fastback, that looks very much like my white Coupe, but it's purely a coincidence. :)
No,sorry. That cable well burn. That header well hit.
Haha, it did, check out the video I did admitting defeat. :)
Drivers side definitely does not go in and out that easy.
Are you referring to these specific headers, or long tubes in general? I didn't struggle with it like I thought I would. :)
Holy crap 😯, I watched this whole thing, I you didn't even give us a start up, or hard acceleration run, to the darn thing !!!!
WTH !!!!
That's how we get you coming back, gotta watch the next video, and the next, and so on. :)