Good video but would like to make three recommendations; Try not to use a pry tool on the bottom portion of the housing. You can get an indentation that causes a seepage later. Don't use a chisel to scrape gaskets. It is a woodworking tool with a very sharp edge which is easily dented. This causes it to put scrathes on the surface you are cleaning. Use a gasket scraping tool or a chemical to disolve the gasket. If you are reusing the locknuts on the axle retainer, U-joint bolts or housing put a little blue loctite on the threads. Those locknuts are not meant to be reused. Also using an impact tool to run down locknuts is is bad for them. Spinning them faster than 300 RPM overheats a locknut
I got home today and a package from Quick Performance was on my porch same exact kit you got) My buddy bought it for me and sent it with out telling me. He was thankful I hooked him up with the deal on the 70 Corvette that was on my channel about a year ago.
I toyed with doing 3.80, but I just didn't want to give up the mild RPMs on the highway. Although, the stop light challenge would have been more fun. :)
I HAVE A QP REAR I JUST PUT IN MY CAR THIS LAST YEAR AS PART OF MY REBUILD OF MY 65 GT350 TRIBUTE WITH A 302 BASED 331 STROKER IN IT. I HAVE A T5 AS WELL AND I LOVE IT! MY GEARS ARE 3:50 TRU LOCK, 31 SPLINE 9" WITH THE NODULAR 3RD MEMBER. AT 85 MPH I'M SPINING A WHOPPING 2,500 RPM's IN 5TH GEAR. GREAT VIDEO. I SHOULD HAVE DONE THE SAME WHEN I WORKED ON MY CAR, BUT OH WELL. YOU ARE DOING A GREAT JOB WITH YOUR CAR AS WELL AS INFORMING FELLOW MUSTANG OWNERS.
Another great video, and changing out my factory 2.8 open gear diff is top of my list right now for my 65 fastback. I may literally order exactly what you did.
Thanks! This is a great mod and the install can be done my most with a few tools. With the exception of the actual installation of the Diff, Ring Gear, and the Pinion into the third member (which most people would take to a shop to do), this is a fairly easy part to swap out. I am real happy with this particular kit (that's why I bought it again for this car), but I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears instead. I have the luxury of that Overdrive gear in my trans, so absorbing a shorter rear gear is easy for me to do. If you have a C4 or the factory manual trans, you may not want to go any shorter than 3.55 gears. :)
Yes I have the 4 speed top loader. 3.55 is my thought too. I am going to get the entire pumpkin professionally assembled, I think I can handle everything else
Not to sound stupid, but I have a 65 fastback with a 4 speed top loader. I think it’s the original rear end. What would doing a mod like this do for the car?
Andy, I love your how-to videos, you make it look so simple, I wished I lived near you so we could work on our 66 Mustangs at the same time, I am putting the sway bar on my car this weekend and using your video to help me do it , Thanks Andy keep them coming
Another awesome video Andy! I just came in from the garage- hunting down and eradicating squeaks and rattles on my 65. You look like you are having fun. :)
Thanks! It wasn't a large discount, but it was nice to save a few bucks. In the end, I imagine Quick Performance will do better on this video than me, but that's ok, I still appreciate them willing to work with me and my small channel. :)
Love these vids man. I'm thinking of swapping the C4 for a more aggressive built AOD and mayb 3.73's with the trac loc. This video was really helpful and insightful!
I had a hi-performance rebuild done on my c3 automatic and upgraded to a 3.25 limited slip. 331 stroker in a 65 coupe. Super fun stop light racers but not good for long x-country. 3,000 rmp at 65 mph and a bit on the noisy side. May go the t5 route someday....
There are moments when I'd like the simplicity of an Auto, but banging through the gears just puts a bigger smile on my face. I feel your pain on the high rpms, hopefully that T5 is not too far in your future. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I am a big city driver in heavy traffic most of the time so an automatic with low gears works well. Might move to a smaller town with wide open road. T5 would make more sense then so no rush....
Enjoying all of the Mustang content. I ordered a complete center section from QP. I am going with 4.11 gears for some fun stoplight action. I have a T5 tranny so I am not worried about going on the freeway since it has OD. I also will use the LubeLocker gasket for the center section. I am not to crazy about using RTV on the housing as its a pain to clean and separate the third member when removing. I have had good luck with the LubeLocker gasket.
@@chrisdavis4545 It did not work as planned. I ended going back to the 2.79 gear set after playing with the 4.11s for about 2 months. My highway RPMs were to high for my liking with the 4.11s. I kind of knew this before swapping gears but stop light to stop was fun. I have 2 center sections so I just swap between the two when I get bored with one. I have the T5z version and it has a 2.95 1st gear and it was useless.
Great video! I've been thinking about upgrading the rear on my 65 coupe. I have an open 3.00 now with a 4 speed toploader. Not sure if I should go for the 3.55 or not though... I'd still like to be able to drive it on the highway occasionally.
Thanks! If you go to 3.55 gears, you'll see roughly an 18% increase in RPMs at your normal highway speed, probably somewhere around 500 RPM more. If that is manageable for you, the quicker offline speed may be worth the swap. Plus, you'll get the added bonus of the LSD if you add that too. :)
They're Quick Jacks, purchased them from Costco for $1k. They are a great alternative for those that need about 2ft of clearance, but don't have the funds or space for a regular Lift. They work best if you need access to the front or rear of the car, but anything in the middle is limited as you can only enter from the front or rear of the car. For example, you have limited space to do transmission work with these jacks, so I oft for regular jackstands when I'm working in those areas. They're not any faster to setup and lift the car than using a regular floor jack and jackstands, but it's a decent alternative for those looking for more ground clearance. :)
I really appreciate your videos. Very straight forward and well thought. Found you from Reddit btw a while back been watching your vids keep it the good work.
Hey man, great video! Thank you for all that information! Question for you, I have a 302, with a c4 tranny in my 65 mustang. Going to install a 9 inch differential (with 1 to 3.5 ratio?). What do you recommend for the tranny speedometer?
You'll need to know the circumference of your rear tires before you can determine which speedo gear to purchase. Once you have that, there are multiple calculators online that can help you calculate your speed and which gear to buy. Heads up, make sure when buying your new gear that you make sure it's a RH gear and not a LH gear, otherwise it won't work. :)
I’m getting ready to install a new 3.55 third member in my ‘65 and this video is very helpful. Where did you purchase the axle puller? I must not be searching for the right term on Google.
Yo, Andy!!!! I have installed 347 stroker in mine, now car has violent wheelhop... put new leafs on years back, .. was snooping on traction bars... noticed your leaf springs have extra leaf piece.. and no bars.. is it an efficient wheelhop eliminator?
Haha, no, I too can make the wheels hop. I've thought about 5 leafs (instead of the 4.5 I have now), thinking it might be enough to reduce the hop. The issue I have are the bottom leaf plates are special for my Panhard bard, so installing standard traction bars is almost a no-go. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet. :)
Unfortunately that wasn't part of the deal. I am working with another Vendor right now to do a discount code, but that video won't be out for a bit. If it's in the budget, go for the upgrade on the Pinion and Ring Gear, like what I have in my car. :)
I went to 4:11 on my 64.5 and that is a little too steep for 1:1 gears...Sure is fun stop light to stop light though. I have all the parts to assemble a 3:55 LSD but have not taken the parts to a guy for assembly yet....What did your shop charge for assy? rough estimate?
I paid $300 for the assembly of the pumpkin. 4.11 would fantastic if I didn't live out of town. I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears, maybe down the road some day. :)
Enjoyed the video as always. Congrats on the discount deal! I'm glad all your hard work is starting to pay off. Did you use copper crush washers when you reassembled the rear end? Mine came with them so I used them but I've wondered if it's really necessary.
Thanks! My Differential guy said I did not need them, nor did I need the paper gasket that came in the kit. He said just use the Ultra-Black Gasket Maker and call it a day. I did essentially the same rear end on my last Mustang and there were no leaks. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Good to know! If I ever open mine back up I probably won't bother with them either. They are also a real pain to chisel off during disassembly.
I found the video !! haha. Question, so you just change the gears inside and should be good for 400+ hp motor ? sorry I do not have much knowledge on rear ends! I am buiding a 65 mustang coupe and I am trying to convert my 302 to a 306 or maybe 347 too but I do want to make 400hp to the wheels ! Iknow alot of people buy the 05-09 gt mustang rear end and be good to go!, so what you did here should be good ?
The ring gear and diff are both upgraded, and can take the power I will be making. The next weak link in that assembly are the axles, but as long as I don't spend my afternoons doing 5k clutch drops, they'll be fine. It's actually the torque rating that we should be looking at. HP is just a number derived from Torque, and torque is the force exerted on components like the driveline and axles. A sudden introduction of torque to any rotating part on these cars will takes its toll over time, and the higher the torque the faster the degradation of that part. I am near the threshold of torque I can make with the parts on my car. If I want to turn up the juice (making more torque) or I want to spend all my time putting that torque to the trans and rear end, I will eventually need to upgrade parts. I'm ok with that, I just gotta figure out how to convince the Boss we need more parts for the car. :)
If we're just talking about gear ratio (and not adding the Limited Slip Differential into the discussion), the numerically higher the number, the lower the gearing. This means a bump in acceleration time without adding more power (or really anything else on the car). Stock gear ratios in the transmission and rear end are better for economy and keeping the car in a good spot for RPM at a given speed in a given gear. But when we care more about fun and driving experience, that other stuff goes out the window. The car will feel quicker and the remain in the 'sweet spot' of the RPM range for a given gear and speed, which in turn adds to the satisfaction and smile-factor when driving. In the end, you're trading some fuel economy for a more enjoyable driving experience if performance is a priority. If you just want to cruise and you don't care about driver engagement when you're out and about, stick with the numerically lower (higher gearing) rear end. :)
I think they're a great alternative for those that can't afford or don't have the space for a traditional lift, as long as they only want to work on the front end or rear end of the car. While there's not much going on in the middle section of a car, the placement of the QuickJacks make it impossible to access the middle under side of the car from the side, you'd have to access it from either end of the car. In some circumstances that may not be a big deal, or the available access is sufficient, but an issue nonetheless. Beyond that, there's 2 feet of clearance once lifted into the air, more than enough room to remove a transmission, rear axle removal, and in some cases maybe enough room to pull an engine from below. The largest advantage these offer is the height and relative space available under the front of the car to service most tasks an owner would need to do. With our cars (specifically the 65-66 Mustang), the pickup point is pretty far inboard (the subframe rails) and therefore the space between each jack is a little tight. I can barely get my creeper between them, and it begins to create a tight space that I'm not a fan of. In turn, this means the ingress/egress of the middle section of the car is very limited, but that is not usually an issue since there's little going on in the middle of the car, as I mentioned early. On more modern cars the pickup point is near the sides of the car, creating much more usable space under the middle section of the car. The stability is good, and the build quality appears to be plenty good enough for the rated weight limit. The pump speed is fine, probably about as fast as a traditional lift in inches per second of lift. I wish the hydraulic hoses were a little more flexible, but now I'm just splitting hairs. Outside of the lack of access from the side of the car, the only other issue is the setup time. These take longer to move, position, and lift the car compared to traditional jack stands. I have mine hanging on the wall, so getting them down (they're kind of heavy), and rolling them into position, sliding them under the car, placing the pads in the correct spot, lifting them a little to make sure the pads are in the correct place, and finally lifting the car can be a little time consuming. I have opted to use jack stands in place of these Quick Jacks a few times just because of the extra setup time. That being said, the QuickJacks offer way more ground clearance than my jack stands and I'd have to buy a special jack to lift the car high enough for taller jack stands, and I'd have to buy those too since I only have standard height jacks. The unit I have is the 3500SLX, and I purchased it from Costco when it was on sale for $999. In the end, I'm glad I have the QuickJack, I use it when I need more ground clearance.
No and no. I don’t pay attention to MPG with this car, and I know the top speed would be lower, but I don’t drive it fast enough to worry about top speed reduction. I know the car accelerates faster, that’s a huge plus with this gearing. I have a 5-speed transmission now, so that overdrive gear almost negates any low gearing you’d chose, so highway speeds and RPMs don’t fight each other. 🙂
Great video and like the new intro. So you have a nice highway krusing load on the engine, how is your low end torque? Notice any changes with traction going around corners or while during u-turns?
Thanks! That shorter gear makes it feel like there's more torque down low, but I haven't really given it the beans yet. No issues with u-turns as this is an LSD, not a spool or welded Diff. I've got a few more upgrades to go before I want to take this car through some twisty roads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I like the combo of the short gears and the 5 speed with OD.. might be on my list of projects to get to. Your gasket in this one was ( and take no offense..) 10x nicer looking then your last one! Do you recommend that product? Is it limited to differentials or could it be used for other applications such as an intake manifold or a fuel pump?
@@jordanschultz2232 The gasket material (Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker) is the same stuff I used last time, but this time I used the "cheese-whiz" style tube, which made it way easier to apply. That stuff is great, I have used it on my Rear Main Seal and Intake Manifold videos. I'm sure a someone could use it for the fuel pump, and if I had a leak there I'd probably use it there too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel great stuff thanks Andy! I have a new carb and manifold going on next week and was debating a diy gasket material or a precut one, feeling confident about diy now! Wrong video to ask about this on, shorties vs long heads.. you've had both, which do you prefer?? Also, did you consider tri-ys at all?
@@jordanschultz2232 With the new Carb, I recommend the dry paper-type gasket. With the manifold to heads, I also recommend the appropriate gasket, but add this Ultra Black Gasket Maker to both sides of the gasket at the water ports (haha, ask me why I know this). You may want to watch the video I did a few months ago on installing the Intake Manifold. :) Wow, the header debate can go on for days. Long tubes are great for higher HP applications, and people that want to sit at the high RPMs while driving, but it may come at a sacrifice to lower end power. The reverse is said for Shortys as they favor engines more towards the stock end (or a few light mods) and provide better lower RPM benefits. Primary tube size will also play a role with larger pipes being reserved for larger displacement engines. If the primaries are too large, it will affect low end power. I like the look and potential power gains with long tube headers (assuming people plan to pull more power from their motor with mods over time), but the fitment can be a pain, especially on lowered cars and cars with cable clutches. Shortys tend to fit well and are usually not in the way of things. Tri-Ys can blend the best of both worlds, but are either cheaply made or it seems like they're on the other side of price spectrum with not really anything in the middle. Some fit extremely well with other mods and some don't. All that being said, if money wasn't an issue, I'd buy either some FPA Tri-Ys (but they're pricey) or Doug's Tri-Ys. These will both work with my cable clutch and provide power where I want it and will be great if I do something like a 347 Stroker down the road.
What final overdrive 5th gear ratio does your T5 have in your 1966 fastback? Do you like the 3.55 gears paired with the T5 gears and overdrive? I am going to be doing about the same thing soon as my 68 fastback has 2.79 gears and I have a TKX trans with 5th gear .68 overdrive . I am trying to figure out what gear ratio i want out back in the 9 inch ford rear I will be building.
0.68:1 is my 5th gear ratio. The 3.55:1 third member pairs well with giving the car a little more pep down low, but still good RPMs for the highway cruising I need to do to get anywhere. However, if I had to do it over again, I go with 3.70 or 3.89 gearing. I am willing to take a slight hit in highway RPMs for better acceleration down low. I think you need to evaluate how often you'll be at highway speeds compared to slower speeds. If you won't be on the highway for extended periods of time, taking the lower gearing (numerically higher numbers) will probably be more fun to drive. :)
Hey Andy, what direction do you think I should go with my new T5 Gear Ratios: 1st: 2.95, 2nd: 1.94, 3rd: 1.34, 4th: 1.00, 5th: .63.......3.70 dif? I also have a 347 stroker
@@tblume84 I don't know your tire size, but my guess is the 3.70-ish gear set would be fantastic. I don't think anything 4.00 or higher would be a good fit for street driving, so your request about the 3.70 would probably be great! :)
Nope, the u-joint on the driveline was newish, so it was fine. But even if it was older, the ring gear will likely get shredded before the u-joint gives out (assuming the u-joint wasn't already trashed). :)
@@bofa83 That makes sense if you purchased the whole third member, they probably didn't know what size (or didn't even offer one) of u-joint you needed. I only upgraded the internals, so I was able to use my existing u-joint. :)
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video but would like to make three recommendations; Try not to use a pry tool on the bottom portion of the housing. You can get an indentation that causes a seepage later. Don't use a chisel to scrape gaskets. It is a woodworking tool with a very sharp edge which is easily dented. This causes it to put scrathes on the surface you are cleaning. Use a gasket scraping tool or a chemical to disolve the gasket. If you are reusing the locknuts on the axle retainer, U-joint bolts or housing put a little blue loctite on the threads. Those locknuts are not meant to be reused. Also using an impact tool to run down locknuts is is bad for them. Spinning them faster than 300 RPM overheats a locknut
Thanks for the heads up.
I got home today and a package from Quick Performance was on my porch same exact kit you got) My buddy bought it for me and sent it with out telling me. He was thankful I hooked him up with the deal on the 70 Corvette that was on my channel about a year ago.
That's going to be a nice upgrade to your car!! :)
Just came across your trans and rear end gear change, showing step by step is great . Keep up the projects!
Awesome, hopefully you're able to pull some helpful information from there. :)
Another great video Andy, excellent third member installation tips.
Thanks 👍
Very nice I went from 273s to 373s in my 89 GT what a crazy difference.
I toyed with doing 3.80, but I just didn't want to give up the mild RPMs on the highway. Although, the stop light challenge would have been more fun. :)
I HAVE A QP REAR I JUST PUT IN MY CAR THIS LAST YEAR AS PART OF MY REBUILD OF MY 65 GT350 TRIBUTE WITH A 302 BASED 331 STROKER IN IT. I HAVE A T5 AS WELL AND I LOVE IT! MY GEARS ARE 3:50 TRU LOCK, 31 SPLINE 9" WITH THE NODULAR 3RD MEMBER. AT 85 MPH I'M SPINING A WHOPPING 2,500 RPM's IN 5TH GEAR. GREAT VIDEO. I SHOULD HAVE DONE THE SAME WHEN I WORKED ON MY CAR, BUT OH WELL. YOU ARE DOING A GREAT JOB WITH YOUR CAR AS WELL AS INFORMING FELLOW MUSTANG OWNERS.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback! That 331 in these light cars is a mean combo! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel YOU'RE WELCOME
This was one of the better upgrades I did to my 65 also. Did the same thing...3.55 TractionLok Gears.
Yeah, I'm glad I got this one done relatively quick, it'll give me more time to enjoy it! :)
Another great video, and changing out my factory 2.8 open gear diff is top of my list right now for my 65 fastback. I may literally order exactly what you did.
Thanks!
This is a great mod and the install can be done my most with a few tools. With the exception of the actual installation of the Diff, Ring Gear, and the Pinion into the third member (which most people would take to a shop to do), this is a fairly easy part to swap out. I am real happy with this particular kit (that's why I bought it again for this car), but I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears instead. I have the luxury of that Overdrive gear in my trans, so absorbing a shorter rear gear is easy for me to do. If you have a C4 or the factory manual trans, you may not want to go any shorter than 3.55 gears. :)
Yes I have the 4 speed top loader. 3.55 is my thought too. I am going to get the entire pumpkin professionally assembled, I think I can handle everything else
Not to sound stupid, but I have a 65 fastback with a 4 speed top loader. I think it’s the original rear end. What would doing a mod like this do for the car?
Andy, I love your how-to videos, you make it look so simple, I wished I lived near you so we could work on our 66 Mustangs at the same time, I am putting the sway bar on my car this weekend and using your video to help me do it , Thanks Andy keep them coming
Thanks 👍
Another awesome video Andy! I just came in from the garage- hunting down and eradicating squeaks and rattles on my 65. You look like you are having fun. :)
Thanks!
We're gonna need a video or two of your project. I'm sure you've gotten quite a bit done, it would be cool to see a progress update! :)
Fancy new intro. I like it. And a deal from a vendor?! You’re big time now haha. But seriously congrats. That’s gotta be a pretty cool feeling.
Thanks!
It wasn't a large discount, but it was nice to save a few bucks. In the end, I imagine Quick Performance will do better on this video than me, but that's ok, I still appreciate them willing to work with me and my small channel. :)
Love these vids man. I'm thinking of swapping the C4 for a more aggressive built AOD and mayb 3.73's with the trac loc. This video was really helpful and insightful!
The AOD would be a nice upgrade. Double check the fitment, I heard that some people need to slightly modify their car to get them to fit. 🙂
@AndyKruseChannel I think I may have to do the drive shaft, but I can live with that. I definitely will be doing more research tho
I had a hi-performance rebuild done on my c3 automatic and upgraded to a 3.25 limited slip. 331 stroker in a 65 coupe. Super fun stop light racers but not good for long x-country. 3,000 rmp at 65 mph and a bit on the noisy side. May go the t5 route someday....
There are moments when I'd like the simplicity of an Auto, but banging through the gears just puts a bigger smile on my face. I feel your pain on the high rpms, hopefully that T5 is not too far in your future. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I am a big city driver in heavy traffic most of the time so an automatic with low gears works well. Might move to a smaller town with wide open road. T5 would make more sense then so no rush....
Enjoying all of the Mustang content. I ordered a complete center section from QP. I am going with 4.11 gears for some fun stoplight action. I have a T5 tranny so I am not worried about going on the freeway since it has OD. I also will use the LubeLocker gasket for the center section. I am not to crazy about using RTV on the housing as its a pain to clean and separate the third member when removing. I have had good luck with the LubeLocker gasket.
Cool, QP makes great stuff. Enjoy!
How did the 4.11 work out? I think my t5 has a 3.27 1st gear so I got a 3.55 rear. I was afraid 1st gear would be a granny gear.
@@chrisdavis4545 It did not work as planned. I ended going back to the 2.79 gear set after playing with the 4.11s for about 2 months. My highway RPMs were to high for my liking with the 4.11s. I kind of knew this before swapping gears but stop light to stop was fun. I have 2 center sections so I just swap between the two when I get bored with one. I have the T5z version and it has a 2.95 1st gear and it was useless.
The funny thing is I am planning on doing a video on this same thing later this summer! Nice video and great walkthrough. Love the new intro as well.
Thanks!
You're video is going to be awesome, I'm looking forward to it!
Another awesome video Andy, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job,what a gorgeous car!!👍👍👍👍
Thank you! 👍
Great video! I've been thinking about upgrading the rear on my 65 coupe. I have an open 3.00 now with a 4 speed toploader. Not sure if I should go for the 3.55 or not though... I'd still like to be able to drive it on the highway occasionally.
Thanks!
If you go to 3.55 gears, you'll see roughly an 18% increase in RPMs at your normal highway speed, probably somewhere around 500 RPM more. If that is manageable for you, the quicker offline speed may be worth the swap. Plus, you'll get the added bonus of the LSD if you add that too. :)
Great work Andy, I’m thinking about upgrading to a 355 in my 68 fairlane fastback.
Go for it!
Love Quick Performace! I've used them several times. Can you tell me more about those jacks you're using? Those look pretty cool!
They're Quick Jacks, purchased them from Costco for $1k. They are a great alternative for those that need about 2ft of clearance, but don't have the funds or space for a regular Lift. They work best if you need access to the front or rear of the car, but anything in the middle is limited as you can only enter from the front or rear of the car. For example, you have limited space to do transmission work with these jacks, so I oft for regular jackstands when I'm working in those areas. They're not any faster to setup and lift the car than using a regular floor jack and jackstands, but it's a decent alternative for those looking for more ground clearance. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh right on. Ya they are definitely nice to get her up a little higher 👍
Great job Andy! I'm slowly gathering parts for my T5 swap...apparently 65-66 clutch pedals are on National backorder according to Modern Driveline 😭
Thanks!
It seems like only the parts I want are on backorder, everything else seems to be in stock. :)
I really appreciate your videos. Very straight forward and well thought. Found you from Reddit btw a while back been watching your vids keep it the good work.
Awesome, thanks for sticking around! :)
Nice upgrade 👌 🐎🚗🔧💪🇺🇲💯
Thanks 👍
You need some Kruse Built decals for those of us building a FIA competition coupes.
Don’t tempt me! 😁
@@AndyKruseChannel serious. I’m planning. I’m having a signature and decals from all the parts on my car.
Hey man, great video! Thank you for all that information! Question for you, I have a 302, with a c4 tranny in my 65 mustang. Going to install a 9 inch differential (with 1 to 3.5 ratio?). What do you recommend for the tranny speedometer?
You'll need to know the circumference of your rear tires before you can determine which speedo gear to purchase. Once you have that, there are multiple calculators online that can help you calculate your speed and which gear to buy. Heads up, make sure when buying your new gear that you make sure it's a RH gear and not a LH gear, otherwise it won't work. :)
@AndyKruseChannel wow, thanks man! Very informative 👏
I’m getting ready to install a new 3.55 third member in my ‘65 and this video is very helpful. Where did you purchase the axle puller? I must not be searching for the right term on Google.
Awesome!
I got this puller off ebay, just type in Axle Puller and you should be able to find a kit that fits your budget. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Excellent, and Merry Christmas!
Great video. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Love the new intro man
Thanks!!
Yo, Andy!!!!
I have installed 347 stroker in mine, now car has violent wheelhop... put new leafs on years back, .. was snooping on traction bars... noticed your leaf springs have extra leaf piece.. and no bars.. is it an efficient wheelhop eliminator?
Haha, no, I too can make the wheels hop. I've thought about 5 leafs (instead of the 4.5 I have now), thinking it might be enough to reduce the hop. The issue I have are the bottom leaf plates are special for my Panhard bard, so installing standard traction bars is almost a no-go. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet. :)
Love the intro!!!
Awesome, thanks!!
Damn, I'm having a hard time keeping up with you. You need to do a cam swap next!
Haha, thanks!
The Cam will likely come with the motor build. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Damn, I was hoping to see an in car install. Could use a good video before I tackle mine.
Did you ask for a discount code to offer us viewers? Going to order that setup for my Falcon. Great video!
Unfortunately that wasn't part of the deal. I am working with another Vendor right now to do a discount code, but that video won't be out for a bit.
If it's in the budget, go for the upgrade on the Pinion and Ring Gear, like what I have in my car. :)
If you invite me to dinner, I’ll bring my own spoon. 😂
Tempting....... pass.
I went to 4:11 on my 64.5 and that is a little too steep for 1:1 gears...Sure is fun stop light to stop light though. I have all the parts to assemble a 3:55 LSD but have not taken the parts to a guy for assembly yet....What did your shop charge for assy? rough estimate?
I paid $300 for the assembly of the pumpkin.
4.11 would fantastic if I didn't live out of town. I'm wondering if I should have done 3.80 gears, maybe down the road some day. :)
Enjoyed the video as always. Congrats on the discount deal! I'm glad all your hard work is starting to pay off. Did you use copper crush washers when you reassembled the rear end? Mine came with them so I used them but I've wondered if it's really necessary.
Thanks!
My Differential guy said I did not need them, nor did I need the paper gasket that came in the kit. He said just use the Ultra-Black Gasket Maker and call it a day. I did essentially the same rear end on my last Mustang and there were no leaks. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Good to know! If I ever open mine back up I probably won't bother with them either. They are also a real pain to chisel off during disassembly.
Awesome video!
Thanks!
I found the video !! haha. Question, so you just change the gears inside and should be good for 400+ hp motor ? sorry I do not have much knowledge on rear ends! I am buiding a 65 mustang coupe and I am trying to convert my 302 to a 306 or maybe 347 too but I do want to make 400hp to the wheels ! Iknow alot of people buy the 05-09 gt mustang rear end and be good to go!, so what you did here should be good ?
The ring gear and diff are both upgraded, and can take the power I will be making. The next weak link in that assembly are the axles, but as long as I don't spend my afternoons doing 5k clutch drops, they'll be fine. It's actually the torque rating that we should be looking at. HP is just a number derived from Torque, and torque is the force exerted on components like the driveline and axles. A sudden introduction of torque to any rotating part on these cars will takes its toll over time, and the higher the torque the faster the degradation of that part. I am near the threshold of torque I can make with the parts on my car. If I want to turn up the juice (making more torque) or I want to spend all my time putting that torque to the trans and rear end, I will eventually need to upgrade parts. I'm ok with that, I just gotta figure out how to convince the Boss we need more parts for the car. :)
This may be a stupid question, (I'm a new '66 mustang owner) what improvements do you get by switching from the stock 2.8:1 rear end to this unit?
If we're just talking about gear ratio (and not adding the Limited Slip Differential into the discussion), the numerically higher the number, the lower the gearing. This means a bump in acceleration time without adding more power (or really anything else on the car). Stock gear ratios in the transmission and rear end are better for economy and keeping the car in a good spot for RPM at a given speed in a given gear. But when we care more about fun and driving experience, that other stuff goes out the window. The car will feel quicker and the remain in the 'sweet spot' of the RPM range for a given gear and speed, which in turn adds to the satisfaction and smile-factor when driving. In the end, you're trading some fuel economy for a more enjoyable driving experience if performance is a priority. If you just want to cruise and you don't care about driver engagement when you're out and about, stick with the numerically lower (higher gearing) rear end. :)
Hey Andy how do you like the QuickJacks? What model did you purchase?
I think they're a great alternative for those that can't afford or don't have the space for a traditional lift, as long as they only want to work on the front end or rear end of the car. While there's not much going on in the middle section of a car, the placement of the QuickJacks make it impossible to access the middle under side of the car from the side, you'd have to access it from either end of the car. In some circumstances that may not be a big deal, or the available access is sufficient, but an issue nonetheless. Beyond that, there's 2 feet of clearance once lifted into the air, more than enough room to remove a transmission, rear axle removal, and in some cases maybe enough room to pull an engine from below. The largest advantage these offer is the height and relative space available under the front of the car to service most tasks an owner would need to do. With our cars (specifically the 65-66 Mustang), the pickup point is pretty far inboard (the subframe rails) and therefore the space between each jack is a little tight. I can barely get my creeper between them, and it begins to create a tight space that I'm not a fan of. In turn, this means the ingress/egress of the middle section of the car is very limited, but that is not usually an issue since there's little going on in the middle of the car, as I mentioned early. On more modern cars the pickup point is near the sides of the car, creating much more usable space under the middle section of the car.
The stability is good, and the build quality appears to be plenty good enough for the rated weight limit. The pump speed is fine, probably about as fast as a traditional lift in inches per second of lift. I wish the hydraulic hoses were a little more flexible, but now I'm just splitting hairs.
Outside of the lack of access from the side of the car, the only other issue is the setup time. These take longer to move, position, and lift the car compared to traditional jack stands. I have mine hanging on the wall, so getting them down (they're kind of heavy), and rolling them into position, sliding them under the car, placing the pads in the correct spot, lifting them a little to make sure the pads are in the correct place, and finally lifting the car can be a little time consuming. I have opted to use jack stands in place of these Quick Jacks a few times just because of the extra setup time.
That being said, the QuickJacks offer way more ground clearance than my jack stands and I'd have to buy a special jack to lift the car high enough for taller jack stands, and I'd have to buy those too since I only have standard height jacks.
The unit I have is the 3500SLX, and I purchased it from Costco when it was on sale for $999.
In the end, I'm glad I have the QuickJack, I use it when I need more ground clearance.
Did you put new bearing races in the axle tube or did you run the old ones with new bearings.
No, they were fine. But those bearings weren't, so I had my Diff Guy replace them while he did the third member upgrade. :)
Do you know how much it changed the gas mileage & top end speed ? I have a 66 FB with 2.80 positraction and a factory C4 auto.
No and no. I don’t pay attention to MPG with this car, and I know the top speed would be lower, but I don’t drive it fast enough to worry about top speed reduction. I know the car accelerates faster, that’s a huge plus with this gearing. I have a 5-speed transmission now, so that overdrive gear almost negates any low gearing you’d chose, so highway speeds and RPMs don’t fight each other. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel Good points,, Thanks
Great video and like the new intro.
So you have a nice highway krusing load on the engine, how is your low end torque? Notice any changes with traction going around corners or while during u-turns?
Thanks!
That shorter gear makes it feel like there's more torque down low, but I haven't really given it the beans yet. No issues with u-turns as this is an LSD, not a spool or welded Diff. I've got a few more upgrades to go before I want to take this car through some twisty roads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I like the combo of the short gears and the 5 speed with OD.. might be on my list of projects to get to.
Your gasket in this one was ( and take no offense..) 10x nicer looking then your last one! Do you recommend that product? Is it limited to differentials or could it be used for other applications such as an intake manifold or a fuel pump?
@@jordanschultz2232 The gasket material (Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker) is the same stuff I used last time, but this time I used the "cheese-whiz" style tube, which made it way easier to apply. That stuff is great, I have used it on my Rear Main Seal and Intake Manifold videos. I'm sure a someone could use it for the fuel pump, and if I had a leak there I'd probably use it there too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel great stuff thanks Andy! I have a new carb and manifold going on next week and was debating a diy gasket material or a precut one, feeling confident about diy now!
Wrong video to ask about this on, shorties vs long heads.. you've had both, which do you prefer?? Also, did you consider tri-ys at all?
@@jordanschultz2232 With the new Carb, I recommend the dry paper-type gasket. With the manifold to heads, I also recommend the appropriate gasket, but add this Ultra Black Gasket Maker to both sides of the gasket at the water ports (haha, ask me why I know this). You may want to watch the video I did a few months ago on installing the Intake Manifold. :)
Wow, the header debate can go on for days. Long tubes are great for higher HP applications, and people that want to sit at the high RPMs while driving, but it may come at a sacrifice to lower end power. The reverse is said for Shortys as they favor engines more towards the stock end (or a few light mods) and provide better lower RPM benefits. Primary tube size will also play a role with larger pipes being reserved for larger displacement engines. If the primaries are too large, it will affect low end power.
I like the look and potential power gains with long tube headers (assuming people plan to pull more power from their motor with mods over time), but the fitment can be a pain, especially on lowered cars and cars with cable clutches. Shortys tend to fit well and are usually not in the way of things. Tri-Ys can blend the best of both worlds, but are either cheaply made or it seems like they're on the other side of price spectrum with not really anything in the middle. Some fit extremely well with other mods and some don't.
All that being said, if money wasn't an issue, I'd buy either some FPA Tri-Ys (but they're pricey) or Doug's Tri-Ys. These will both work with my cable clutch and provide power where I want it and will be great if I do something like a 347 Stroker down the road.
What final overdrive 5th gear ratio does your T5 have in your 1966 fastback? Do you like the 3.55 gears paired with the T5 gears and overdrive? I am going to be doing about the same thing soon as my 68 fastback has 2.79 gears and I have a TKX trans with 5th gear .68 overdrive . I am trying to figure out what gear ratio i want out back in the 9 inch ford rear I will be building.
0.68:1 is my 5th gear ratio. The 3.55:1 third member pairs well with giving the car a little more pep down low, but still good RPMs for the highway cruising I need to do to get anywhere. However, if I had to do it over again, I go with 3.70 or 3.89 gearing. I am willing to take a slight hit in highway RPMs for better acceleration down low. I think you need to evaluate how often you'll be at highway speeds compared to slower speeds. If you won't be on the highway for extended periods of time, taking the lower gearing (numerically higher numbers) will probably be more fun to drive. :)
Hey Andy, what direction do you think I should go with my new T5 Gear Ratios: 1st: 2.95, 2nd: 1.94, 3rd: 1.34, 4th: 1.00, 5th: .63.......3.70 dif? I also have a 347 stroker
@@tblume84 I don't know your tire size, but my guess is the 3.70-ish gear set would be fantastic. I don't think anything 4.00 or higher would be a good fit for street driving, so your request about the 3.70 would probably be great! :)
They are building me and 8 inch for my 32 hot rod
Nice! They’re a great company and I plan to use them again on my next upgrade. 😁
Did you get any gear white at highway speed?
Nope, quiet as a church mouse. Well, as quite as this car can be at highway speeds. 😆
did you have to get a bigger u joint?
Nope, the u-joint on the driveline was newish, so it was fine. But even if it was older, the ring gear will likely get shredded before the u-joint gives out (assuming the u-joint wasn't already trashed). :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I just installed a third member from them and needed a different u joint, and I’m going to need wider girdles as well.
@@bofa83 That makes sense if you purchased the whole third member, they probably didn't know what size (or didn't even offer one) of u-joint you needed. I only upgraded the internals, so I was able to use my existing u-joint. :)
sounds like the rear end whining at 24:18
That’s me, whining from excitement of the new parts! 😆
@@AndyKruseChannel thought it sounded like gear whine I have a quick performance rear end