FORD F-250 Ignition Switch & Steering Column Link Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- FORD F-250 Ignition Switch & Steering Column Link Repair
1) Motorcraft SW6383 Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder
2) FORD F2DZ-3E7230-A Actuator Assembly / Starter Switch Actuator Pin
3) FORD FODZ-3E715-A Ignition Switch Actuator
4) Motorcraft F4DZ-11572-B Ignition Switch
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
I just did this repair today to a 98 F-150. I was able to get the part in place without sanding or filing. I pulled the lower actuator to the end of the channel it rides in and got the pin started. Then I used a flat screwdriver to push on the plastic where it touches the wall on the right side. With careful, steady force, it popped into place.
thanks i was wondering if it was possible or not!
@@trailblogger no problem. I hope I NEVER have to do one of those again. LoL
cool. all i can say is the executive at FORD who approved that plastic piece of crap to be placed in that location is evil. this movie is so amazing on so many levels. it shows a beautiful american truck with an evil piece of junk plastic hidden inside that is designed to fail. but this dude heroically saved the day and fixed his truck. ! so awesome.
How were you able to pull the lower piece sor far foward. Mine stops with a clicking sound and is still recessed in its groove.
How were you able to pull the lower piece sor far foward? Mine stops with a clicking sound and is still recessed in its groove.
I don't know who you are but you out of 100 damn videos you've got the best video I've ever seen thank you
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful
Its actually great and simple and you didn’t over talk like so many others do, right to the point and life is good.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I was completely stumped on my 98 E350 cut off van with a box on the back. But watching this video told me how to get it done. So I'm just going to start digging in see if I can get this thing fixed. Again I appreciate your straight to the point not a lot of talking just here's how it's done technique!!!
Good luck!
@@trailblogger Thanks
thank you sooo much. my 1995 f 150 got broken into not only did they break the ign. cylinder BUT they broke the housing as well, i looked on internet for hrs.couldnt find howto replace housing UNTIL i found your video, thanks again for good clear video!!
you're welcome, glad it helped. sorry bout your truck! thieves can rot in hell!
I ripped into mine today and was worried about putting it back together. Your video helped a lot and explained how everything worked. Good job and good video. Thanks!
You're welcome I'm glad it was helpful!!
I think you solved my problem, Sir for my 1994 Ford Passenger Van that no one knew what simple part was broken by a less than fair mechanic who broke my steering column and/or ignition when changing ignition switch. This will save me money especially since I believe what the word the mechanic couldn’t say was “Actuator Switch” along with maybe he broke or lost the plastic gear, plate or clip. This has been almost two months of agony with several men who work on cars not knowing Jack but to tell me I needed a new steering column. I, a determined woman because of my late, great father, Army Staff Sergeant, Ralph Tuck and mother, an Army WAC taught me to never give up and to investigate. No is not an option as a single woman whose father taught her a lot about male car salesmen and mechanics. Lol. I really plan to learn how to actually perform the logic that I see in my mind about fixing cars on actual cars when I retire from my first career. Lol. Love you, Mama and Daddy Always at 56.❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Helpful video bro! I had the exact same problem. My pin fell out of that plastic actuator bar. I already bought the new part ($20) but all I really neaded to do was reinstall the pin. I used the new part anyway, also shaved down the corner to finagle it in there. But I added a little thread lock to the pin so hopefully it doesn't slip out again. I was able to cut out a few steps, wasn't as hard as I thought. You can use the tilt lever to release those to big spring bars if you don't take everything apart. The steering wheel spring was easy, you just need to use your snap ring pliers and push on the snap ring with a screwdriver , it goes right in. I like the crafty use of pvc pipe though! 😉 Also found made a hack for easy installation of the tilt spring 2 zip ties and compressed it with a vice, then cut the zip ties after installing. Anyway, thanks for the video! Gave me the confidence to tackle this project myself. Keep up the good work!
that's a good idea with the zip ties! glad the video was helpful!
Had this exact thing happen to me on my 7.3 turbo diesel. Couldn't shut it off and on top of that it's an automatic transmission, so stalling wouldn't work. Couldn't find if there was a fuse to remove. Wound up removing all the air intake tubes up to the turbo and suffocating it with a piece of plate steel. What a monumental pain. Glad I found your video so I can make this tedious repair
In the maxi fuse block under the hood, on the top left hand side there is a yellow 20 amp maxi fuse right underneath the grey diode. That is for the fuel shut off solenoid. Pull that maxi fuse and the truck will shut right off.
Good to know!
That was for my 92 7.3 IDI. Not sure on the Powerstroke.
Just did the same with mine today
Pull the ignition box off and push the switch to off on the ignition box. Remember to unplug your battery
Thanks for making this video!!!
Ps if anyone is stuck somewhere with this problem or don’t want to fix it for a while. Drop the ignition switch and crank it from there.
If I made this same video, It would end sooner and the final shot would be a Big Box with All The Pieces in the Corner of My Garage. Thanks For the informational video !
This is the only video, only info I can find on this and wow, thank-you for taking the time to document this. Same thing just happened to my 2003 E350 van and I'm looking at doing this repair. What a nightmare! I did realize that I can remove the ignition switch, turn the key to on and operate the switch manually to be able to drive the vehicle. Good info to just get home, or shut the vehicle off if the linkage breaks when the vehicle is running, as you needed to kill the engine with the manual transmission.
glad it helped! not going to lie, i considered just using the switch under the dash to start and stop it haha. was glad it was over with when she finally was all back together.
Had the exact same problem on my 03, and this video saved me so much damn time. Thank you for this
You're welcome I'm glad to hear it helped get your rig back on the road
Great video just a couple things to add. First there are some bushings on the shaft that get sloppy over time so the steering wheel will move up and down. For future time saving effort anybody doing this should replace them because you are already in there. Second and maybe more important to know there are two screws that hold the bezel on under the strips on each side of the column you won't be able to remove the bezel until you take them out or you may end up with a broken trim and a trip to the junk yard. Third and maybe you did it on purpose but you didn't put the idiot buzzer thing back in the ignition switch. I saw it hanging there and for anybody who hates buzzers you can pull it out or cut the wire and no more buzzer just don't forget your keys. I had the column issue I was talking about but couldn't figure it out so I had it done. Thanks again I learned something today:)
great tips right there. definitely would have done the bushings while I was in there if I had known ahead of time the parts to order. my bezel was busted on this one already, or at least the hole that fastens it was drilled out I think I can't remember now but I see what you mean. the dinger came pre-disabled by the previous owner but good point for those who want it back to 100% original- if you are watching this, don't forget that. great info, thanks for the comment!
Dude....nice video. I watched half a number of videos regarding the steering column on a OBS Ford truck. To date, they have cost me over $100.00 in parts. Your video showed HOW you do something. TH-cam needs more guys like you posting videos and less of these other IDIOTS that throw up bullshit. Thanks again for doing it right.
I'm glad it helped! You're welcome!
Thank you!!!! FOR MAKING A VIDEO THAT HAS THE NEEDED INFO AND NON OF THE BULLSHIT. Awesome job on the video you are amazing at speeding through the bullshit and then slowing down right at the critical parts. I have done this a few times and couldn't remember the order of spring bushings ect . And the part where you had them layer out in a line and then even went as far as to flip the bushing to make sure we knew the order was excellent
glad i could help!
You thoroughly convinced me to "Pay the man, Ant BEE". ;-)
Thanks for taking time to make and post this video. I almost caved to put mine in the shop after watching how much was involved to tear down to replace the actuator rod, but your video made me think I could do it. I got it installed after rewatching your video when I had difficulty with this or that. Your hacks were very helpful, like grinding down the rod to make it fit, and I benefitted from your PVC pipe with washer and bolt idea to reinstall the retaining ring. Thanks for the great video and instruction!!! Your video is the best video out there for this project. That's a nice truck you have!
awesome man! I'm glad the video helped. thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. sadly i sold the OBS but still have a 7.3L. the new truck is a big green 2002 f350 extended cab 4x4 with under 150,000 miles. i am the second owner. first owner was literally a grandpa. i'm going to be doing a video on the front driveline rebuils and hubs replacment for my next truck vid. also threw all new tie rods and ball joints on while i was under there... pretty much the entire front end.
@@trailblogger Sounds great. Hope you'll be extra careful working under that big and heavy truck!
for sure, jack stands are our friends!
I just wanted to say thank you for all the details between repair because I have an f350 dually and your video saved me 100.
Also, I think you should look into posting for other mechanics.
Thanks you watching and leaving a comment! Really glad it helped keep your old girl on the road. They just don't make em like they used to. I will try to get some more videos like these posted. Mainly just wrench on my quads and the truck if it breaks down to save money. I've got a leak hydro booster now so that's probably next is steering. I've had the part in the back seat of my truck for well over a year now. Also need to fix a door lock actuator sometime soon so my lock works again with the key fob.
My next adventure is my power steering gear box and it will also be my first experience on that. It's a 96 f350 dually 460
Sadly I sold the truck in this video but now have an 02 f350 7.3 which is the one that needs the hydro boost repaired
I have replaced my power steering pump 3 times in less than a year and I have a leak around the gear that is a little exposed, looked through the manual for specs on it but that was useless.
Rather than twisting or prying then grinding the new actuator,
remove the lower actuator and everything comes apart and goes back together
easily. On the top of the column, under
the shift tube, there is a part called the shift pawl that prevents the lower
actuator from sliding out. The shift
pawl is held in place with a small pin in a difficult spot to drive the pin
out. I used a screw driver to force the
pin flush with the casting then a drift and hammer to tap the pin out a little
further. Once the pin is pushed out you
can grab onto it with pliers and pull it out the rest of the way. With the pin out, the shift pawl comes out and
the actuator will slide out of the tube.
Not too difficult to do but take note, or take a picture, of the shift
pawl before you remove it as a reference for re-assembly.
Not sure what model you have but this did not work in my 96 f150. I removed the shift pawl and was unable to slide the lower actuator any farther out than I could before removing the shift pawl.
yes, it is a pain in the thing I use dental picks on mine, and it flew out and it was easy to put back together replace the pawl and retraining pin after you put the housing back together
Very detailed and clear explanations of the process. Great video! I am going through this whole process now on a 95 F-350. Thanks for the help!
Glad I could help. I was ready to have mine towed in and found a few videos on here that helped but none specially for an F series. Saved me a few bucks at the mechanic shop and I was able to get the truck back on the road without a tow.
Its a pain in the ass to do, but this video helped a ton. It got me through doing this on my 98 explorer. The process was exactly the same.
Im glad it helped!!
So glad I found your video!!! Helped me a ton figuring out my '92 F150 ignition problem
This may be the problem I have as well, thank you and GOD BLESSYOU
Thank you for this video sir. Doing the community justice
Welcome!
Have a 95 f250, same problem... starts but will not turn off, video very helpful... thanks so much
I got a similar problem with my 95 F250, It shut off fine but won't start..
Great video! I had replaced mine and unfortunately the part broke again about a month later!
Did you swap out the switch when you did the new linkage piece? I think my link busted when the OEM switch started freezing up internally due to corrosion
Great video! Just a note, the part you're referencing actually engages the ignition on both tilt and non-tilt steering columns ... Again, Great Video ...
thanks, great info
I'm glad I have an XL. No tilt, no air bag no speed control. Only a horn. Plain and simple. But i did have to replace the 2 bushings.
It was confusing because every video is for tilt but after doing it I realized that are the same except non tilt has one jaw instead of 2
👍👍 good video and if it ever fails again it won’t be from lack of grease 😂
lol
Great video great walkthrough on how to do the repair. If you ever do the cable operated door handles
to linkage rod swap out of 1990 F-150 would definitly watch that too?
Actually... My old man has a 94 f250. I wonder if his has the same setup? He said his door handle has been buggered for awhile on the driver side so he's be climbing in the passenger lol
just watched your video on the same problem I have with my 95 dually. Thanks for some Awsome video. i'm gonna start on this problem tomorow. Tried to get the part numbers off of the parts bags but you were moving too fast. In any case, well done.
Sorry about that! I normally list the parts
Thank you so much for making this video. I am currently halfway thought this repair on my 96 f150. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the Steering Column Lock Lever to release far enough in order to reinstall the Steering Column Lock Cylinder Housing. Any suggestions on how you were able to crack those levers down or some how release the spring would be much appreciated!
I have yet to removed the entire Steering Column and I am trying to avoid doing that. Let me know if you feel removing the entire column is necessary for getting the housing back into place.
This video is the only one that was of any help thanks
welcome!
@@trailblogger I have a dumb ? I replaced ignition cylinder actuator when putting turn switch back on I cannot remember where the plug with the 3 wires goes 95 f350 no tilt manual 351w
Wish me luck and the , it’s the next day… lol this is so much help so far
Thank you so much your video help me fix my truck
I'm glad I could help
Don't be afraid. It isn't that bad. The video makes it a cake walk. Especially if you don't remove the lower section like Trailblogger mentioned. I used a long extension to remove the 2 torx bolts on the upper, it came off with no issue.
I got crazy and used the square ends of 2 extensions on a bottle jack to compress the 2 locking jaw springs for the tilt on the reinstall. Only thing you'll have to fight is the big spring which may not be much of one with a vise and a well placed zip tie. Full disclosure: I didn't try that on this go, was able to muscle it back in, but I have used that trick in the past with flawless results.
The bottle jack is a good idea, didn't think of that.
@@trailblogger different application called for a little creativity lol. Thought I would share for folks who may be intimidated. I enjoyed your springsnapringretainer press device. I am still looking for something similar to finish up mine.
good old PVC pipe LOL
@@trailblogger really?!?!?! I have a ton of pvc but passed on it cause I thought it would explode lol
the could happen lol. luckily it did not
Part Number for the Ignition Switch Actuator (shoulda listed this in your description, great video btw) F2DZ-3E723-A
Thank-you, mine just broke on my 2003 E350. Appreciate the info.
Excelente video, pude cambiar los baleros facilmente...saludos
gracias por mirar y dejar un comentario Me alegra que lo hayas disfrutado y espero que haya sido útil.
Ouch 😨 Thanks for doing the bull work . I'll do a momentary switch to start mine for now , But i reserve the option to watch this numerous time should i do the repairs .
lol hope it helps
i considered doing the same thing if i couldnt get the whole thing working again
Nearly identical to my 1999 f350. Thanks for this
welcome!
Thanks for the great video!! Best one I've seen on YT detailing steering column removal.
I'm glad it was helpful
This video was made well. I will dig into mine next week
For my 96 f150, I had to use a two prong gear puller to get the steering wheel off, it does not have the screw holes for the two bolts... Instead it had "pull here" at two spots.
I couldn't get the lower section of the link out for a few days. Turns out there is a spring clip under the shift tube. Didn't take the column out so I couldn't have found it. But I drilled out the plastic and broke it out. Only took a small chunk of the main body out with it.
Mine linkage just broke yesterday. Researching this, wish I could see what you did. So, If I lower the column I could take the spring clip off the top and remove the lower actuator?
@@blackrockbrewing5141 turns out I was wrong. It's the lock for the shift tube. It's on a blind hole split pin that I don't think you can remove easily. So I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to shave the top of the flat section of the lower linkage. Only the rear part of it since the lock rides in the groove on the top of it. I also had to cut a slot through the reenforcement on that flat. That was so it could flex just enough to slide under the lock with a little tappy tap tap. I did this with the column in the vehicle but lowered.
How’d u get the lower actuator out!? Mine is completely stuck and I was thinking about using a flat head and beating on it but I don’t want to break anything…I have a new one ready but I’m not sure how to get the old one out pls help me
@@konen5807 don't! It will break the case. It's held in by a keyed tab that is held by a pin in a blind hole. What I did was use a long extension and a 1/4" drill bit to drill out the plastic until I could lightly tap ot out. Then when I put the new one in, I had to cut some of the webbing on the lower section so it would just flex enough to slide under the little metal piece. But with a little luck and a lot of lube you can stick a lot of things.
@@Hazmatt4700 ok from the bottom correct!? Cuz I have an automatic so I don’t even know what’s on top lol
When I went to install the new one, I notice the top hole that shows the actuator was showing that it wasn't moving even though the bottom was showing movement. I took the new one back and used the old one to hand start and drive to work. I will repair later. Thanks
Good job. Thank you.
Welcome!
I checked my actuator and it is moving? Was yours moving at all, when the pin was broke? I still don't have no retention in the switch... I wonder if the white ignition gives retention to the switch?
Great video. I'm going to find a wiring diagram and install a off/on/on/ with a momentary on switch arrangement. Might have to do it with relays. Drunk guy completely destroyed the casting the cylinder is held in.
I left too many days between teardown and reassembly. Very helpful including all the steps! If you recall, what is the plug at 10:13 centerscreen? Seems like it is not used in my setup but cannot remember.
I don't recall sorry
Thank you so much for videoing this. This was a bitch of a project and there is close to no info anywhere on how to replace an ignition switch actuator.
Glad it helped!!
Thanks for that video... Have 2000 f250 7.3 It all started because it would start but would not shut off the truck when i took the key out... I bought the ignition switch because when i looked up there and turn my key, it would move back and forth. I installed the ignition switch and it would work until i turned it all the way to start. SOOOO I just pushed the lever by hand on the ignition switch and i could make it start by hand, (like just hanging there) and i had the key turned to the on position as well. So i am guessing i too have to do what you did??? Sound like the same thing??? thanks for any input....
Exactly the conclusion I came to on mine, 2003 E350 7.3l Diesel. Just broke yesterday, Geez. I can operate the switch by hand, but the key is not operating the lower actuator. Did you get yours fixed?
What an ordeal to fix a simple issue. Talk about over engineered! Not looking forward to doing mine. But GREAT video.
I hope this helps! It wasn't as bad as it looks.
You don't need to lower the steering colum or anything just get a small touqe on those two brass ones and losen them up saves so much time
Did you use anything else? Or did it come right out?
@@chrisshreve1736 just the torques
I’ve had to do this twice. Any idea on how to fix what’s causing the pin to come out?
Great Job, Thanks for sharing.
Great video I’m a little timmed on doing my with so many parts to tear down
Don't be scared just dig in there haha
Thanks for posting! Great video!
welcome!
I wish you would have shown how to install the actuator arm into the gear behind the ignition key cylinder. I cannot get ot all aligned...
Sorry i left that out. Really hard to get a tripod in there, I need a third hand!
aloha, that is an awesome truck. i have to try to do this repair as well. i will let you know how it goes. have a great day.
good luck to you sir! i hope that the repair goes well for you. note that in a worst case scenario you can use the actual switch attached to the bottom of the dash to start and stop your truck until you get the column pieces.
@@trailblogger thank you! i start it using the screwdriver and solenoid technique. if you have a link to that other technique, i would love to check that out too! thanks.
when you see the white switch under the dash held on with two torx screws you will see what i mean, that plastic pieces pushes and pulls on it. probably why mine broke, switch under dash was too stiff for plastic piece to push anymore from corrosion inside
@@trailblogger i was going to try and pull out the green retainer and the metal retainer to find out if the gear was even engaging? such a stupid design. on such a beautiful ford truck. :)
Clever trick installing tension spring and retainer clip using pvc pipe. thanks
welcome and glad it helped
Great detailed video. Thanks for posting!
you're welcome! anything i can do to help keep these old beauties on the road
@@trailblogger oh yeah and it's a lot cheaper than a new one lol
Agreed, one of the best repair videos.
thanks Fritz!
How do you get the key cylinder GEAR to seat properly back in the cylinder and have it “aligned” properly with the actuator rod. I have everything else finished, just at the point of putting the ignition switch back while aligning the cylinder gear with the rod.
Did you figure this out? I'm having the same issue.
Im having trouble getting those 3 pieces back into the thing for the cylinder. This has been the only video i have found to even mentioned those three pieces. Does somebody have a link to how to put them in or know what they're called so I can look up a video Maybe??
Good Job Man!!! Thanks for the flick!!! Helped me out!!! :)
Awesome 👍
question for ya, what year model etc is this? when my steering bearings failed the airbag clockspring was FUBAR as well only part that was recognizable was those three copper contact rods similar to ones in your vid, yet when ford sold me replacement i ended up with a clockspring mechanism... not sure it matters because i dont have an airbag but definitely not the same part..
95 F350 XLT 4x4 5 Speed manual
How do you get the piece out(the one u didn’t take out) because mine is what is causing the problem I believe because it is completely stuck and won’t budge
Yeah, I know?? I'm getting ready to replace it, did you ever figure it out?
@@coltonbocock2586 no ;( I might just take it to the dealership and have them do it😕
@@konen5807 Aww that stinks 😕 turns out mine didn't need to be replaced, It somehow by the grace of God worked! I hope you get yours fixed, Good luck!
@@coltonbocock2586 u too
I wish you had shown putting in the tilt lever spring in
It was a pain in the butt, but it can be done. Patience. Be careful. Go slow.
Great video. Thanks
welcome!
Mine is doing the same issue staying on replaced several parts and still has same issues do to proces of elimination I think this may be my problem
did you get it going?
I think this is the same problem that I have because I can turn the key but the truck won't start but if I remove the Ignition switch I can push on the rod that sticks up and start it manually but then it won't turn off with the key so I think my pin either fell out or broke off. Thanks
Hello i replaced my whole column when my bearing went out... After the column replacements i no longer have functional hazards/turn signals/radio. The radio kicks on when i turn the ignition to accessory but that's it. Any ideas?
I'd take it apart again and look for a loose or pinched wire. hope that helps
Supposed to remove the trim piece over the column,around the gauges. Makes it a lot easier. It will be helpful
good tip!
@@trailblogger I just replaced the whole upper column housing on my 95 obs. It was a real pain. Taking off that cover pice you can do it without loosening the column bolts. Wish I would have found this video before I did it,would have made it a lot easier on me lol
it was a real pain!
My truck was stolen and they pulled out the ignition lock and unscrewed the switch to start it. I got a new key and lock, but the linkage is not in the right position and I can't get it to move. Why is that?
I’m trying to get the old tilt steering lever pin out to put on the newer ignition housing part but I can’t seem to get that pin that holds it in place.. any ideas??
needle nose ?
Looks like a nightmare.
I think I will just take the ignition switch and mounted under the dash we're all I got to do is reach under to operate the switch.
The ignition key will still lock the steering.
I'm done👍
Did the resistance come mainly from the
Broke pin or the white ignition module? My switch is moving freely. Could it be possible that my pin is okay?
my thoughts were the pin broke due to a corroded white ignition module getting too stiff. if your pin is fine i would leave it.
I could check the other end of the steering column with a mirror and if the actuator is not sending, that will let me know, right? Like in the video, except on my truck of course.
@@chrisshreve1736 a mirror or a cell phone on video record mode
About to do mine it’s 112 tho waiting til dark
Same it is like 110 F here now. In the video I had a portable swamp cooler setup outside lol
@@trailbloggermines a 96 f350 have u done it yet? I’m dreading it
@@sn2bkng yes i recorded this video
Until I have time to completely take apart the steering column, could I manually start and turn off the truck by pushing the pin myself?
yes i think so. this also occurred to me that if i didnt have a manual i could have used that trick to kill the truck.
Why don’t you show putting the pieces of the column back together? Seems like an important part of the step-by-step process we are partaking in…
Sorry i didn't get more footage. To be honest it took a LOT of time to record even just taking it apart and I usually record myself taking things like this apart for my own benefit to help myself getting it back together. I'm not a professional mechanic and I just needed my truck back on the road ( and not dead in the driveway ). I wasn't even 100% sure my fix would work. What you can't see in the vids is that it is over 110 F outside here in the day which is why a lot of work had to be done at night by flashlight making it even harder to record in an already tight area.
I’m so lost mine has no power at all idk what happed
Good video, but is a lots of work doing that, I'm fixing to replace the steering column completely, is my first time hopefully works
What happened? Did you replace the column? My actuator linkage just broke yesterday, researching the fix.
After watching the video,I apologize. You explained what it was much better further on
Thanks!
how did you remove the old actuator rod?
Whar year vehicle is this 250? Mine, a 1989 looks different on the inside.. Also I am not understanding why it was necessary to replace the ignition switch..
The linkage to the ignition switch broke because the ignition switch under the dash was freezing up from being old. I replaced the switch so it wouldn't break the linkage again.if you try and use the switch under the dash and it's extremely stiff I'd replace the switch while you're in there as it's not expensive maybe $40 at the most
Also this is a 1995 So it's a different generation of F-250 than yours which has the IDI diesel instead of the powerstroke DI
@@trailblogger Thanks. Yes, my ignition switch is stiff,. I am wondering about the wisdom of simply machining a steel or aluminum actuator rod as mine has broken at least 3 times since I got the vehicle 5 years ago.
@@kenibnanak5554 I bet if you did you could sell them on eBay lol kind of like the plastic door handles... I've seen farm rigs where they just leave the ignition box dangling under the dash and use that by hand
@@trailblogger LoL, I am stuck at removing the ignition lock housing from the 89truck. I have removed the 3 bolts and it doesn't even wiggle much less pull off.
What diameter and length pvc did you use?
That piece is not too let the wheel pivot,or for tilt. It is literally to lock the wheel when the ignition is off
Thank you for sharing
welcome!
$12 part. hours a labor. first on race day.
Filing the actuator down that much is okay?
It held up fine after that but i did sell the truck about 6 months later. If you do it correctly I'm sure it doesn't need to be filed at all but I just needed it fixed lol
Mines a automatic could this be my issue
On an auto i am not sure sorry. Will it not start? Try wiggling the shifter back and forth and turning the key
What does the black wire that is dangling @ 14:55 connect to?? The truck I bought had the ignition cylinder OUT and that wire loose with the terminal on it damaged, have NO idea where it goes or what it is for....... HELP !
did you ever figure it out? sorry i no longer have the truck to go look at
That wire actuated the buzzer sound when you have the key in the cylinder
thank you
Impressive...!
thank you
Please post the OEM part numbers.
sure here they are, adding to the video description also Motorcraft SW6383
Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder
FORD F2DZ-3E7230A
Actuator Assembly / Starter Switch Actuator Pin
FORD FODZ-3E715-A
Ignition Switch Actuator
Motorcraft F4DZ-11572-B
Ignition Switch
"yea I got this spring in with a flat head screwdriver, you just gotta push real hard........" ok bro. come do mine. lol fuck that lil spring on the side...
lol it was a pain and the whole time was hoping it didnt shoot off into orbit
@@trailblogger I almost got hit in the face and pinched my fingers like three time trying to use a pair of needle nose to compress it and get it in there. I’m ganna try again tomorrow. But I might just leave it out. It’s only to help adjust the steering wheel height I think so I don’t really need it
You ok? 3 days later. Did you get it? Or is that this weekend's mission?
@@trailblogger ok bro. So. Yes I’m ok. But I was about to put it all back together without the spring and I noticed I lost the snap ring that goes on the shaft behind the steering wheel. I think it went don’t in the damn defrost hole in the dash. I had another steering wheel I got from a pick a part I got the upper actuator arm out of and I was just ganna get the snap rig out of that one, but I already took my bosses puller back to the shop I work in and so I built a home puller out of some hardware I had, but that didn’t work so I hacked up the steering wheel and got it off, but there is still a piece of it left on the shaft in front of the clock spring. Uuugghh lol I’m just ganna get a freaking grinder, get it off, and then take what’s left of this $230 steering wheel back to the pick a part and see what they will refund me for the pieces that are still good lol. I think the air bag is the most expensive part lol
Holy crap man, hang in there you will get her
Is it required to replace the plastic rod with the pin or maybe just put the pin back in?
i wasnt risking it lol
@@trailblogger funny! I have an issue and really hope you might comment. I got the new ignition actuator put in the slot.....filed it down. But when i tried to put the big part back on (that has the ignition barrel and round hole that goes over the steering column and fits into the two torx bolts) it wouldnt fit. It was maybe a 1/4 inch shy of matching up to the torx holes. Anyway I disconnected the steering rod underneathe the dash and then it aligned. Tighened the two torx bolts up and connected the rod undeneath the dash again....but when i went to put on the spring around the steering column guess what? The spring is way loose and took no effort to compres to put the snap ring back on. Ill try post a youtube video.....something doesnt seem right.
@@trailblogger th-cam.com/video/K-md45VtID0/w-d-xo.html
@@pwrmx24 pause my video at 40:35 where I am using PVC pipe and washers to compress that spring down way further
@@pwrmx24 did you put a washer below the big spring?
How the hell do you get the keeper out inside the ignition switch housing. Ive been prying on the green clip for hrs and it wont budge.
needle nose ?
@@trailblogger use a flat nose screwdriver on the edge of and push it to one side to get it out from under the retraining rim then pull it out with needle nose or dump it out while shaking it upside down
what kind of grease?
STA-LUB MULTI-PURPOSE SUPER WHITE LITHIUM GREASE
More vids of the obs
Can I just pull the upper section out.