Ignition Actuator Replacement (easy) - Most Detailed How To Video - '87-91 F-150
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- I appreciate the subscribers!
Get back up and running for less than a $10, compared to possibly having to get towed to a shop and paying hundreds in labor.
Slow/detailed video, but it shows you how to fix a common problem in older ford trucks - the "actuator" breaks inside the steering column, which means nothing will happen when you turn the key.
When mine broke I didn't know what the issue was and thought I'd have to get it TOWED to a shop $$$ (couldn't turn the truck on/off), but it turned out to be a cheap part and an easy fix
Link to the part (can be found cheaper elsewhere online): m.advanceautop...
Just did mine on a 88 bronco thanks to you! The shoe wanted $275. It cost me about $17 and 3 hours. Awesome tutorial !
Mine just broke in the "on" position. I have ordered the part and look forward to fixing my own next week!
@@ScottPlude getting the broken piece out is tricky. We used some uv adhesive and it did the trick. Good luck 👍
same in my bronco, just broke yesterday.. was a very interesting crunch.. i'm tempted to just not reinstall and it make the car a bit more stealable!
@@furthurondown not worth it bro. They are increasing in value
@@NspeckHerGadget i was kidding, but i also know that withmy starter switch hanging loose i can just forget about using a key if i want to. mine is a beater, dog hauler. it's so chopped up i doubt it has any value regardless!
What I really liked is getting to the point...I've seen too many where we sit through the life story and other ...stuff... before getting to what I needed. Great job!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I really can’t say it enough. I’m trying to restore my Dad’s 91 Bronco 5.0. I dragged my feet starting this project and was greatful for each step you provided. I’m back to the crank no start…but at least it’s cranking with the new actuator. Checking the fuel pressure tomorrow. Hoping a new pressure regulator resolves it and it’s not the fuel pump. I’ve dropped fuel tanks to get to the fuel pump before. Not looking forward to it. Patience and progress.
Thank you for video Austin. I've got all my parts laying in a bowl and on the seat. Took this apart a week ago and now I needed to see which screws go in which holes. Thank you so much for taking your time with this . I feel confident enough to attempt the reassembly knowing I can watch your video and go step by step. You Rock.
I went through hell trying to figure out my 86 f150 no start issue and boom your vid pops up and saved me 250 . You sir are a wizard
What all did you try? I’m in the middle of that hell as we speak. And what exactly did you change that fixed your problem?
What was the issue with your truck? Ive replaced everything, and i mean everything, with new and all i get is a single click. No start. No forum can answer my questions either
@@dustinfrontauria694
I assume you got it fixed by now. Was it a bad battery or solenoid?
@@RalphSampson... neither. Sometimes it can be a loose ground or power wire. I also have a push start button since my actuator keeps breaking. If that's not connecting it'll give a click. What mine was was the clutch not going in far enough
This was perfect, thank you.
The only thing that I ran into that was a speed bump was my ignition gears (inside the housing below the ignition lock cylinder) moved when I was taking it out and it took me a minute to figure out why my ignition switch rod rack was not being accepted into the housing. I finally figured out I had to use reinstall the ignition lock cylinder and turn the key so the gears would accept the rack.
The Ford Engineers that came up with this should be banned from ever engineering again. Pure Insanity! Thanks for the video...
Austin YOU helped a seasoned tech tackle his ride, you were spot on and your detail was on point!!!
Rrrrrrrkuujjkjj
Hey man, was getting ready to move and my actuator broke in this 14 degree cold last night.. watched your video last night got the part and had it fixed in about an hour this morning. Thanks for taking the time to film it. Was extremely helpful
Nice work. And I gotta say, video taping the task you are trying to complete is very smart. Less time cursing at yourself for ending up with spare parts when you finally button up a job that’s had you working on it in your spare time(not your video, just a general thought). If you follow step by step instructions it’s one thing but when you are diving in with just a parts schematic… that’s where even taking pics of a fastener location before you remove it can make for easy recall. Thanks for the walk through. Have a good one.
Thank you! I watched and rewatched this video several times while working on tearing down and reassembling the ignition actuator on my 1990 F150. I appreciated your wiggle technique because I did not want to have to remove that section and deal with putting the tilt spring back on. Couldn't have done it without your help!
thank God there's people like you Dude I took that spring out because I had to because of how far I disassembled everything and to get it back in I used three small snap ties put the spring in the vise compress the spring but make it so the snap ties can still slide to get them adjusted pull the snap ties tight took the thing out put the spring in where it's supposed to go and then cut the snap ties
Now I know what my mechanic is going to have to do to fix my issue.
Should be fun 🤪🥵😆
Thanks for the video and the link to find the part. I was having a hard time locating the part until I clicked on your link. Thank you again.
Wow, this video is a needle in a haystack. Most videos focus on the key cylinder and you are the first to dive into replacing the actuator between the key cylinder and the ignition switch. Thanks for posting. I am hoping I can fix this issue on a 93 buick regal.
😅 thank you. I followed some other video taking it apart went to put it all back and nothing was sitting right. This gave me opportunity to see exactly how to do it
Wow, thanks so much for this! I just finished mine and this video took all the guess work out of the project. The only difference
is I had to remove the ignition lock to get my housing off. I also connected the actuator to the assembly before putting the housing back and it slide right on. Awesome video!
I just finished this job and I took a shortcut and cut off about 3/4" off the end of the push rod. It went in fairly easily without removing the steering shaft snap ring or punching out side pins. The only thing you loose is that you don't have to push the key release trigger every time you pull the key. To me that's a gain not a loss.
Still starting okay? Not sticking or anything? Thanks. I’m about to do the same thing.
i also cut down the metal piece. i also grind some aluminum off the inside part where it would touch the steering shaft. when i would put it in the lowest position it would rub and stick bad. i assume that is why these go bad. greased the hell out of it. my truck didnt have the key release. there was a piece inside that hole still that would hang up on that aluminum part. i didnt like that at all. so cutting this part down seems the way to go. i wasted a lot of time before i figured this out. depending on your cast part. cut it right before it gets larger. make sure to leave enough so when your in the most forward position that metal piece is still in. once you have it all apart this will make more sense.
Tried doing that yesterday but the way the old one broke it lodged itself in a place where the new one won’t go it at all
Another thing I lost was the tilt wheel. Oh well I rarely would use it anyway.
All you got to do is grind the left side down a bit just enough to make that turn
Great video young man. Very detailed and calm
Best video I have seen for this. The pins were not mentioned in some videos. Very detailed!
I didn’t read all the comments but I just used a small easy out in that machine thread, and those pins came out actually by hand. Talk someone might like that tip. And that was A very good video on that subject. Thank you.
Gonna do this tomorrow on my Gramps 89 f150 pray that the actuator is the only issue lol thank you brother!
We just did ours, it wasn't as hard as it looks. You don't need to back off the snap ring more than 1/2 an inch or so.You definitely want to pop out the side pins. We used a screw and vice grips to pull them. If you put the actuator through on the left side ABOVE the hole (in the gap) it goes into, and then once clear pull it back and put it into the hole. You'll have a lot more room to work. Don't cut the piece like so many people have suggested. Just put it in from the left side. :)
I used the screws and needle nose vise grip to pull pins. Very good idea. Thanks alot
Very helpful video, thanks man !! That helps me to replace my actuator & signal switch
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me a lot to fix my 1990 ford f-150 truck
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. It’s a huge help.
Good video. Very helpful. Thank you young man.
lol, my 88 Bronco has broken down every winter right before an upcoming snow. This issue is this years.. I've done this operation before on a 1990 F250.. it is no fun, for sure.. hopefully I have time this week before the big snow they forecast next weekend.. if so I'll finally have my Bronco when I need it one winter..
I uesed a 9/16 nut a screw and a 3/8 fender washer to remove the pins on side so actuator would fit Put nut against column, insert screw through washer the tighten screw ant pins pull out like removing steering wheel
Thanks for the video. Some things was a huge pain in the a$$. But gut it working and only had a few screw left over lol thanks again
Thank you for showing the release of the column lock to get the aluminum actuator rod out. My actuator assemble broke in 3 places and that shaft was broke flush at the column.
Thank you muchly... You worked me through this perfectly. Certainly made sense to install a non modified part to replace an already weak component. If you lived next door I'd give you one of my extra hammers to use instead of the adjustable pliers!!!
I appreciate your "actuators for dummies" video... you saved me $$$ THANK YOU...
Awesome the help you can get from the web site and you guys showing and explaining has helped me to get the new acculator done thanks Mr Gonzales
Very helpful, $ , thank you, why do some people even bother to unlike , something for free, !!?
Damnit my turn now XD it was cold outside and it broke when i wanted to start, luckily it happened at home.
Thanks for making this video, it was very helpful and you saved me lots of head scratching!
Good video, thanks for not adding music👍🏼I like to be instructed not entertain
Finally a good video
On the part at 11:00 I used my hub caps screws for my 4wd hub and a socket with washers to pull the pins out instead of using a punch
Thank you. This helped a lot
Great video! I have 1988 F150 automatic & tilt. I considered doing the so-called "very easy" replacement of the actuator with a new, modified (end cut off) actuator, but via testing (probably with the broken actuator) I determined that the would-be cut off piece actually provides a valuable safety interlock in the case of my automatic. With the interlock feature (unmodified actuator) and with the ignition cylinder in "lock", the gearshift cannot be accidentally bumped out of "park" to accidentally send my truck rolling down a hill I may have parked on. ==P> I was worried about being able to punch out the inside-threaded tilt pins. It turns out that the pins are snug but not tight. I was able to fashion a "punch" from a wire handle from a bucket. I hammered out the curve in the wire and the straightened wire made a nice punch. ==P> I tried to put the housing (that the turn-signal lever sticks through) back on and could not figure out why it was getting hung up. It turns out that the shift lever needs to be in "park" when the actuator is put in place. So after guessing that this is what was needed, I had to dismantle everything back to the point of inserting the actuator in place. In the process, my straight wire punch could not reach the backside of one of the tilt pins. So I made another punch from another section of the same wire handle, but this time I left a sharp bend (originally for fastening to a bucket) in the wire and that sharp bend provided the right "jog" (or "zig" or "zag") in the punch. I'm pleased with the results. ==P> I'm not sure I got the snap ring properly seated on the steering shaft. The snap ring seems to be "warped", and I'm not sure whether it is supposed to be that way. I could seat the gap area of the snap ring, but if I press on the opposite side of the snap ring, the gapped side of the snap ring would start to pop out of the grove. I could not figure out how to make the snap ring seat all the way around, and I don't know if it is supposed to do that. ==P> I also replaced the ignition switch because the old one was hard to run through the switch positions with the actuator rod after both were removed. But that did not solve the problem of not being able to crank the starter with the key. When I first bought the truck, cranking the starter with the key could be done, but it required a very hard twist of the ignition cylinder to do that. Someone installed a separate "momentary-type" push-button starter switch before I bought the truck, and I've been using that starter button just fine. So I'm guessing that the inability to crank the starter with the key is probably due to a problem with the rack and pinion assembly behind the key cylinder (i.e., between the cylinder and the steering column), virtually at the beginning of the actuator train from key to ignition switch.
What do you do if the actuator pin is actually broke off flush with the column
Great video couldn’t of done it with out it! THANKS!
There's a tool I found at OReillys to remove those tilt pivot pins.
I cut off the knob thing on the end of the long shaft and just stuck it in. It just keeps the shifter from moving without the key being turned, so it's not too a big deal to me.
cubey do we really need the actuator? I mean we only need the balled part, right? We don’t need the long part that runs down the column. We only need the s shaped part it looks like if we aren’t concerned about the no key shift.
That reminds me of my 91 F150 I used to have. I have a video of it on my TH-cam channel. Several years ago when Automotive Dealerships were doing the Cash for Clunkers promotions even TV Hosts were jumping on the band wagon and Rachel Ray was doing a contest of send us a video of your junker car to be entered to win a brand new car. Well I obviously didn't win so I uploaded the video to TH-cam.
Thanks for the good thorough video.
Instead of using a bolt unscrew the small piece of plastic between ur wheel and dash, should be on top the column, and use that flat ended screw to get the two bolts out
GREAT video,, VERY helpful.... Thanx
Getting ready to do a 92 f150 without tilt, hoping it's easy
Oh yeah, thanks for the video
Thanks so much for the video, it got me through this repair! Many Many Thanks
You got it brother 👍
You could still jump starter solenoid with screw driver in this situation correct? Having no crank and key feels weird and can jump solenoid in mine and I know the solenoid is good also
Thanks for a great video. Changing mine tomorrow. Why he push button to start. My Bronco was that way when I bought it. I don't know why it was done. My friend that Nbs it's a Upgrade to match new cars. Lol.
Jeff Allen it actually helps extend the life of the actuator. The push button allows me to bypass having to apply pressure to the key (and therefore actuator) to start the engine. I just turn the key to the 'on' position, and use the push button to do the rest.
This eliminates that extra pressure on the actuator and increases overall reliability. Obviously the actuator will still eventually fail, but not nearly as often.
Glad it helped 👍
Hi just watched your video great job thank you, can you tell me how you wired your starter button.
Thank you for the video.
anyone know of video of doing proper alignment of the gear sliding assembly in the key cylinder that actuates the rod? if they get out of whack, things don't work as intended. I assume you'd have to have the whole shebang apart to place the ignition actuator to the run position so when you put the key cylinder in the hole to have the gears mesh at the proper position...is that correct?
Having the same issue. "Messing with it" for about a month now... there's no play in it. How did he get it back in
Thanks! Great video!
Thanks this did actually help me a bunch
Thank you so much!
Me and my brother have a 1985 Ford F150 Lariat xlt and we were able to get the acctuator out but can't get the new one back in, it seems to stop 1/4 of the way through. Any tips on what the reason could be?
Man great video thumbs up 👍🏼
Hi Austin, Can you tell me where you got your push button ignition? Was that hard to install? Thank you.
They aren't hard to do. Just 2 wires to the solenoid. Not sure what you got, but it's really easy with the solenoid on the fender.
I wish you really would have recorded the actual black piece that you was talking about putting that in because now that's what I'm confused about
Good looking out. Really helped me put
Would this cause the key being stuck in the ignition?
The only improvement I can make to your procedure is to not try to use a punch to get the pins out of the last piece from the inside. Those pins are threaded on the outside for a reason. Screw in an appropriately sized screw and use it to pull/pry/screw the pins out. I used a slide hammer, they came right out without a fuss.
Great video
My key got stuck in the ignition switch and it won’t turn
While replacing actuator
How did you fix this issue I have the same ?
Help! I have the same problem any advise???
On mine, I got in there using your technique and it is intact (the actuator) but my key lock is gummed up good, I have a new key lock, but wasn’t sure how to remove it. But my key turns and there is no spring back action in the key, and when battery was hooked up, it would only fire up when I held the key in a certain position. Any help would be great. This is in a 1991 F53 chassis (RV Winnabago)
great job!!!!!
Thanks ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️awesome video bro..✌️
10:30 use M4-0.7 x 16 mm Class 8.8 Zinc Plated Hex Bolt (3-Pack) to screw into the pins
7
Awesome job thank you
How did you get the snap ring back in? I have an "83 350 and the snap ring is wavy. Thanks for the video and any help you may be able to provide.
i also cut down the metal piece. i also grind some aluminum off the inside part where it would touch the steering shaft. when i would put it in the lowest position it would rub and stick bad. i assume that is why these go bad. greased the hell out of it. my truck didnt have the key release. there was a piece inside that hole still that would hang up on that aluminum part. i didnt like that at all. so cutting this part down seems the way to go. i wasted a lot of time before i figured this out. depending on your cast part. cut it right before it gets larger. make sure to leave enough so when your in the most forward position that metal piece is still in. once you have it all apart this will make more sense.
once you take the pins out its easy to put the piece in from the back. if its cut down you might not need to take the pins out. i didnt try that though. the point of cutting it down is not so you dont have to take the pins out. i used a small bolt and threaded into the pins. then attached a bolt and washer. take a hammer and they slide out easy. if they dont stack a bunch of bolts and just tighten them. just like a tiny wheeler puller. if you get the concept. i hope these tips help the next guy. dont forget to grease everything up. add some grease to those plastic blinker pieces. should help them not break. over the next 20 years those plastic blinker parts will get brittle.
my piece was broken in 3 lol?
after the pins are pulled and the retainer. there is a gear teeth for the tilt wheel in the bottom holding that spring tension. careful with that. watch your fingers.
I saw a different video. The guy had the same problem getting it back in. He determined that it was possible to remove a piece of the new part.
Do these actuator are adjustable?
Cut the end off the accuator. DONE ! IVE DONE IT.
I have a 91 f150 . It started with the ignition key switch would work off and on and then it stopped. When I turn the ignition switch it does nothing nor does it give resistance back after turning it. Does this sound like the same thing . I replaced key switch and the ignition switch on the lower column. And advice would be greatly appreciated..
Hey how would you remove the little pin above the actuator that holds the the lever for the actuator
How long did this take you ?
What If you don’t have the key!!!!! I bought a column off a wreck and I can’t swap the ignition for my old one that fits my key because I don’t have the key for the new one 😡
Hi thanks for the video, just picked up an 87 ford. The ignition itself is a little tight turning it to the start position. And I have to turn it more then normal to start it. It's kind of awkward to start. Then I have to turn key back once it starts, it don't spring back. Do you this the problem is just the ignition switch or something else. Thanks if you could help
Fix it now before it snaps off completely. Mine did the same until it broke in 3 peices.
@@kriswood1354 thanks Kris for getting back to me, I'll get around to it. I installed a push button, turn the key just untill all lights come on and I push the button. Also I just put a remote start in, best 160 dollars I spent in awhile. Thank you
mine snapped today thanks for the video
how did you wire up the push to start button?
I’m a female and I am about to attempt changing mine. I hope it isn’t the actuator I hope it’s just the tumbler. 🤞
I do want to say that this is the clearest video I’ve found on here to do this. Thank you
hey (people of the internt) how do i get a start button like that
Why did you need the push button to start?
I never saw you return the snap ring that you took out. Did you just throw it away or leave it loose or what? I'm not dumb but some people are and if you don't explain it to them they willleave it loose...lol
I got everything back together and now my ignition cylander in stuck in run. I can't move it out, did anyone else had that problem
Sweet
All that....and you have a push button....wow
So when I did this I had a smaller spring fall out of the area and I've got no idea where it goes. Does anybody here know where it goes? I can't really find anything about it yet
Hey Austin, did you use the steering wheel puller to put the steering wheel back on?
No, you're supposed to just snung it up by tightening the center nut
Good bid o, I just cut the end off and slid right in...
Bro I had to wrestle the hell outta that switch to get it to reset...of course all I can get here are Chinese copies of oem parts. They are off a little.
I have a no start issue. No lights on dash or anything when I put the key in. Could this be it?
If you feel the three different tension points when turning your key is not the actuator if it was the key is loosely turning
How do you fix it so you don't have to use a push button to start? Mine is the same way
I don't have to use the button. That's just an add on, I can start it by turning to key too
Hola ...Someone can helpme please
I change this in my 87 f 350 diesel and now l can't get it to start ...