Well, this was helpful. I need to replace the lower column bearing in mine since it's all sloppy, and I'm sure the uppers aren't any better. Gonna get a new turn signal switch at the same time. The spring loaded horn contact pads are worn into a severe step on mine and the rest of the switch is just as worn out although it works.
Apparently way back, I did some unneeded steps so make sure you look through the video a couple times you may not need to do all the crap that I did...
@@skudwoofer I planned on taking everything apart on mine and cleaning and inspecting everything wen I do the bearings and turn signal switch. May as well put a new ignition switch in at the same time. All that stuff in my column has 253,000 miles on it, can't imagine it'll last much longer lol. I've had to take the wheel off 3 times over the last 12 years to tighten the screws for the housing for the lock cylinder, those screw will be getting loctite this time.
If you had just taken the lock ring off the steering wheel main in the center you can push the steering wheel colom forward a little bit and it will slide and you could've gotten it in there.
I have an 88 F250 XLT Lariat extended cab with ignition switch related issues e.g. turn key hard over and sometimes nothing! I was tempting fate whereby one day this will not work at all. So I had a remote starter and Door lock system installed which works great. Yes I will need to replace HOPEFULLY just the switch at the bottom of the column but found this to be a reliable stop-gap...Thank you for the video cheers!
Definitely very, VERY helpful and so much better production than others, even with a cell phone camera he is not swinging the camera all around. He stays focused on what you need to see. Even the shop manual does not explain all of this. Excellent audio. Thank you and you are a good mechanic and have a lot of nerve to take this all part, first time. Excellent!
No, mine was a no start issue, but if you have the tilt, it is feasible that the small part broke off inside. Take the column plastic off and see what is going on. (mine is a stick shift)
after following this video I have done nearly a dozen things wrong and removed a dozen things that didnt need to be, even his annotations are incorrect, you should not have to remove anything from the engine bay nor should u have to remove the tilt mechanisms. you live and you learn. usually you just dont post a how-to when you don't know how to. irregardless, I appreciate the upload because it kind of gave me an idea of what to do. Making and editing videos is not easy especially when most of the info online is incorrect. I appreciate the effort, but i am now trying to reassemble the damn thing and have no visual aid because this 'tear down' video is incorrect in so many spots. I get so frustrated when people say "assembly is reverse of disassembly"... when the teardown was incorrect in multiple places, out of order, and the video you show us 'how you did it' you are holding the parts upside down and in the wrong spot. I just wish there was a better video, but frankly there isnt.
@@skudwoofer I was being an ass sorry i was really frustrated. I finally got everything fixed. your video did help me get it apart, and I appreciate the time you took for free just to help strangers.
@@powerobsession734 no problem man I could tell you were frustrated by the lengthy response there's a difference between citing the reasons you're frustrated and just being a troll and I could tell you were just frustrated glad it helped a little bit hope you got everything back together
You have a tilt steering column if you have cruise control push your turn signal forward towards the dash some are a little sticky but it will click forward and and tilt
Dude, you saved me a ton of time and trouble getting my RV running again. Thanks for making this video, cheers!! The alternative, seeing as how I live far from any big cities, was to go far and wide in search of whole, used steering column. This was actually a huge time and money saver.
Those two pins that you removed with the small bolts are what your tilt column pivots on. Push the blinker rod towards the dash while wiggling the wheel for a pleasant surprise! Ford's have used that design since the 70's before they started using a "tilt" lever for tilt only.
@@RalphSampson... hey Ralph, so if you have a tilt wheel and you don't know it, that pretty much translates to the whole mechanism being pretty well stuck with lent and dust. Not hard but push your turning signal lever towards the dash while wiggling it and the steering wheel. The surprise is your wheel should pop loose and you can adjust it. You should also see in the whole of the steering column where the lever comes out there's room for it to tilt forward as well as up and down for right and left turn. 88's and up typically have till wheels. Never seen one that doesn't really.
hey skud, It looks like your still active on youtube, my 89 f250 (same thing), I cant get it to index right. do you have any tips on getting it back together?
This is super frustrating to me. I have removed the 3 screws holding the ignition switch housing on my 89 F250 However it refuses to budge. I tried also taking the lock cylinder out, but that makes no difference. I have tried drive, park and neutral but the ignition housing doesn't budge. What is the secret?
I accidentally threw some parts away, i found three old fords all with tilt, mine is non tilt. I think Im gonna try and make it tilt. Im trying to locate a parts list.
this was very helpful as I just replaced the aluminum locking piece associated with the ignition that was broken in my 1989 f150. the piece i am talking about pushes the actuator rod when you turn the key. the actuator rod pushes on the ignition switch. when you push on the ignition switch it sends power to the "s" terminal on the fender wall mounted solenoid. on tilt steering take note later in his video about using the 8x32 screw to remove the pins on either side of the top part of the tilt steering. they come out fairly easy . i put a claw hammer on the screw and tapped the hammer with another one to get the screw out. do not pull the then released upper part of the two part steering column out too far as there is a spring on the both right side. just tip the top of the circular part back towards you enough to get the part back in the square slot. my aluminum actuator locking part was broken flush off. I took a long drill bit and drilled into the aluminum -easy- and tnen put a screw in the hole i drilled and pulled the part out with a needle nose. in his video he could grab the part-i could not. using the drill i got the part out in a few minutes. i had a problem with the starter staying engaged after start up --pulled my hair out. finally I put both screws in the solenoid on the fender wall. duh! and got a good ground established for the solenoid and now no problem. my posts on f150 forum about starters not dropping out and in my case it was poor grounding on the fender wall under the hood. regards
Just bought an 88 F350 anytime you go over a bump the engine cuts out it's definitely something to do with the ignition cause if you wiggle the key or hold it in a certain way it doesn't happen. Thanks for the video I can take apart or build a computer in under 30 min but I'm new to automotive work. Seems straight forward.
The wire bale that makes the wheel tilt. Underneath where it pushes up against the tilt lock arm/spring. Should there be anything on that end of the wire bale. Mine doesn't make contact when I push down on the signal arm to move the wheel. hope His makes sense, great vid by the way. As I'm having to replace both bearings and split the halves.
I have a 1988 f150 and need to know how to remove the rack in the column ? (the piece attached on the right side of the actuator rod ) please get back to me soonest as I have it all apart waiting to find out
I got a 1987 f250 and my igniton switch is sticking I have to raplace it. can I just push the pin out ( like in your video @ 5:02) without taking all the other stuff off?Thanks good video
@@skudwoofer I notice you said that you have to turn the key forward out of the lock position. What if my key will not turn? It's stuck with the steering wheel. Do you think it's the lock actuator or ignition switch?
@@angelaceves4510 like others have mentioned, I would pull the lockset by actuating the pin and if you can't turn the tumbler removed, if the key won't actuate the tumbler it may be bad. Did you try graphite powder in the lock? Try that and also you might use compressed air to blow the lock out and ensure there isn't a bunch of crud in there.
@@skudwoofer Going to try that today. Steering and key got stuck out of no where when I was trying to leave work. Tried the normal wiggle routine to unlock the key and steering but no luck. Been looking at a bunch of videos but everyone's problem is different then mine. I'll start with the ignition cylinder lock and go from there. Thanks for the advice
i have a 89 ford crown victoria. i lost my keys so i need something in a way to act as a key to be able to put it into gear and turn my steering. im able to manually start the car but not shift or turn. any help or opinions would be appreciated
+Aristotle Salmeron the lock tumbler probably is preventing you from putting it in gear (not sure on this one, maybe someone knows the car better) The tumbler set and new keys is like $15-$20 online, just checked....
I have a 1997 ford ranger 2.3ltr 2 wheel drive recently replaced flywheel drove 10 mls on freeway and started to hear a light knocking as i drove it got worse but only if i pushed the gas pedal any ideas what it could be? It would be highly appreciated thank you
Yes, the bolts are coming loose on the flywheel. You must use lock-tite on the threads or they will back out and cause the knocking sound and possibly break off in your crank shaft.
Hey buddy I need some help finding a plastic piece that going around the column u Kno that the ingition switch goes to do u Kno where I can find one it b great if u can get back to me
the actuator rod is the rod that runs from the steering column to the electronic ignition switch down the column. Unfortunately you have to take the steering wheel off, and the turn signal electronics, to the point in my video where i show the little pin being pulled out that retains the rod. Also, you will want to take the 4 bolts off under the column which allows the column to drop down so you can take off the electronic ignition switch and get the actuator rod out from under it. (I would take off the 4 column bolts first and allow the column to drop down, that way the plastic trim bits come off easier from the column, if you have to take them off).
cadudite In re-reading my comment above. If you suspect it to be the electrical switch, I would just pull the 4 column bolts before doing anything else and see if the switch can be replaced without tearing anything else apart. If the switch can be unbolted and turned in such a way that doesn't require taking steering wheel off, etc. to get the rod out, then the job becomes about a 15-20min job.
***** Cody, it has been a long time since I did this, but I think I know what you are asking. The part that has the teeth, has to be slid into a specific position to get the tumbler to work or rather rotate correctly into it's key on and starter positions. If I remember correctly, it took me a few tries to get the toothed part in the correct position so the tumbler would actuate correctly. It seems like there was even a position where the tumbler was even jammed, IE not able to rotate. For me it was trial and error, too far one way and the tumbler wouldn't rotate far enough to engage the starter
Cody, I hope that answers your question, I am sorry if it wasn't an exact explanation of what I did, I just remember having to get the gear that the rack engages with in the correct position so the tumbler would work correctly and it took me a few tries
Thank you so much for the annotations. I probably would have gone through the same teardown on my truck. You are saving me hours of time for the actuator replacement.
Thank you for you knowledge and you are right what a pain in the ass. The biggest problem I had was that the replacement part needed to be dressed up so it would move smoothly in channel.
Thanks for the comment. Having to do it over again, I wish I would have pulled the pivot pins sooner, would have eliminated a whole bunch of grinding....
Christopher Cassidy it did run, but I had to have the ignition switch turned so far forward that the switch was almost all the way to the position that engages the starter. Mine was NOT a tilt column, which in turn, it ended up NOT being the aluminum transfer shaft that goes bad on tilt columns but the actual electrical switch that is located on top of the column down by the pedal assembly. The electrical switch was coming apart as I think I detail in this vid and was pretty easy to replace as compared to the other part.
it's not too bad, just take your time, give your self a whole day to do it, especially if you end up needing parts and if you have a video camera (cell phone) record the parts you might forget how to put back together, that way if you get stuck, you can watch back how you took it apart.
Okay, so I still have a question: If the Actuator Rod is what presses the ignition switch, then is the Actuator Rod also be responsible for turning the accessories on, and also for turning the engine off? Showing my ignorance here, but I've got an '88 tilt that has had a push button start for many moons so igniting the engine isn't an issue, but as of earlier today I can't control the accessories or cut the engine witth they key/lock cylinder. The lock cylinder just spins freely - Thanks man
Christopher Cassidy no, ignition switch (mechanical part that key goes in) is easy. Stick key in ignition and turn so it is out of the lock position, depress pin underneath with a pointy object, (I used an awl) and the ignition switch should slide out. There are other vids on youtube showing just this step. Similar to this video, th-cam.com/video/3tMnqaawghM/w-d-xo.html except your column if it is an older ford will be metal and you can see the pin you are pushing in...
if you lower the wheel a bit its easier to get slack in the wiring. To remove pins a home made puller consisting of the right bolt/thread and tubing/socket and washers would work. if the key ends up out of adjustment there is a slip ring in the ignition (bottom of key holder) and the guts can be removed and adjusted with arm. Trial and error. I cut my new arm when I replaced the broken one instead of pulling anything apart further on manual tilt and seemed to work fine. I collect the 89-91`s along with other fords and I figured it was time to fix instead of replacing steering column. If a good cheap replacement column can be found its probably just as easy to replace column
Do you happen to have a part number handy for the part that breaks on the tilt steering? I just got the shop manual, but your video's been very helpful to follow as well. I'm still debating on whether to have a shop fix my tilt steering or do it myself. Any further insights/information would be helpful. Great video.
If I ran the engineering dept of Ford, I'd design a simple steering column that has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with anything but steering the front end. The ignition switch would be in the DASH, where it was on my OLD Ford truck (77 F150) But, I keep forgetting, this is PROGRESS
lol, maybe progressive progress. cars are more "safe" for your "safety". Ve must protect you from yourself...... Crash standards ruined the chance for there to ever be a class of manufacturers that would be considered "small".
+Mark Hight man it has been a long time since I did mine, I think the metal clips are retention clips, but I am not sure, you might head over to f150forum.com or a similar website and see if someone there can recall what those clips are for....
Thanks for the video at first I was like "really?" about taking everything apart just to change the ignition starter switch til I read the comments below the video haha!! By the way I'm deaf so that why I couldn't hear what you're saying through out the whole video haha!!!
how did you get the metal piece with the groves that the key moves the actuator back and forth back on? I have the new one put in but can't figure out how to connect them.
I am battling this same issue. Not sure on the orientation of the brass gear and placement of the rack. I know when the key goes forward the rack should travel in the same direction. I haven't put it back together yet. It got dark
This does not look worth the effort. I think I will run a little wire and put a push button on the dash that connects to the battery and the starter solenoid to start the truck. Easy Peasy! Surely something will get broken or lost with all these tear downs and rebuilds. Not worth it on a 25 year old truck.
Hello and thanks for answering peoples questions, now mine. I had a mechanic do this same repair to my 89 tilt column now the tilt wheel will NOT lock in the selected position The tilt lever works and the wheel will tilt all the way up or down but when I set the position I want, then with a little tug the wheel drops to the next lower position then with another little tug the wheel will drop to the in your lap position. It's safe to drive but a pain in the rear. Any ideas where to start with this repair.Yes the mobile mechanic flaked and would not come back as he promised. A second mobile mechanic finished putting the column back together but he could not fix it or see what was wrong any ideas would help. Thank you.
At 12:09 on the video, you will see a spring that holds the toothed keeper in a locked position unless the tilt mechanism has been actuated. I am wondering if when work was done on your vehicle, if that was removed. Were there any leftover parts that you found? Please remember, I has been a looooong time since I did this work, so my recollection is a bit fuzzy, but being able to bump from position to position seems like the ratchet / pawl mechanism doesn't have the required spring?....
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Thanks for sharing your experience! I might just buy an intact, used steering column!!
9 years later…
I appreciate the effort you put into making this video quick and to the point.
Thanks for share and for your time to cover your steps - I appreciate it very much
Well, this was helpful. I need to replace the lower column bearing in mine since it's all sloppy, and I'm sure the uppers aren't any better. Gonna get a new turn signal switch at the same time. The spring loaded horn contact pads are worn into a severe step on mine and the rest of the switch is just as worn out although it works.
Apparently way back, I did some unneeded steps so make sure you look through the video a couple times you may not need to do all the crap that I did...
@@skudwoofer I planned on taking everything apart on mine and cleaning and inspecting everything wen I do the bearings and turn signal switch. May as well put a new ignition switch in at the same time. All that stuff in my column has 253,000 miles on it, can't imagine it'll last much longer lol. I've had to take the wheel off 3 times over the last 12 years to tighten the screws for the housing for the lock cylinder, those screw will be getting loctite this time.
Thanks man
If you had just taken the lock ring off the steering wheel main in the center you can push the steering wheel colom forward a little bit and it will slide and you could've gotten it in there.
12:44 you save me so much thinking and researching, this little guy fell out and I could not find where it goes. Thank you so much sir.
I have an 88 F250 XLT Lariat extended cab with ignition switch related issues e.g. turn key hard over and sometimes nothing! I was tempting fate whereby one day this will not work at all. So I had a remote starter and Door lock system installed which works great. Yes I will need to replace HOPEFULLY just the switch at the bottom of the column but found this to be a reliable stop-gap...Thank you for the video cheers!
Definitely very, VERY helpful and so much better production than others, even with a cell phone camera he is not swinging the camera all around. He stays focused on what you need to see. Even the shop manual does not explain all of this. Excellent audio. Thank you and you are a good mechanic and have a lot of nerve to take this all part, first time. Excellent!
Good video very informative
Thank you!!! Most instructive how to with everything! I like how u added the notes really a big help
New ports on my steering wheel colom
How do you aline the actuator gear ⚙ back onto the rod
man carl, this was so long ago; I think it was trial and error. I am pretty sure it took me several tries to get it right??....
Wair can I get New ports for mi steering wheel.
Great video
excellent video and audio quality . USING THE TOOL POINTER IS VERY INSTRUCTive
So did your ignition switch keep your truck from coming out of park . Can't get my 87 250 to release out of park
No, mine was a no start issue, but if you have the tilt, it is feasible that the small part broke off inside. Take the column plastic off and see what is going on. (mine is a stick shift)
after following this video I have done nearly a dozen things wrong and removed a dozen things that didnt need to be, even his annotations are incorrect, you should not have to remove anything from the engine bay nor should u have to remove the tilt mechanisms.
you live and you learn. usually you just dont post a how-to when you don't know how to.
irregardless, I appreciate the upload because it kind of gave me an idea of what to do. Making and editing videos is not easy especially when most of the info online is incorrect.
I appreciate the effort, but i am now trying to reassemble the damn thing and have no visual aid because this 'tear down' video is incorrect in so many spots. I get so frustrated when people say "assembly is reverse of disassembly"... when the teardown was incorrect in multiple places, out of order, and the video you show us 'how you did it' you are holding the parts upside down and in the wrong spot.
I just wish there was a better video, but frankly there isnt.
Sorry to hear my video didn't help that much, hope you get it back together.
@@skudwoofer I was being an ass sorry i was really frustrated. I finally got everything fixed. your video did help me get it apart, and I appreciate the time you took for free just to help strangers.
@@powerobsession734 no problem man I could tell you were frustrated by the lengthy response there's a difference between citing the reasons you're frustrated and just being a troll and I could tell you were just frustrated glad it helped a little bit hope you got everything back together
That truck does have tilt steering to use the tilt you press forward on the signal light switch
You have a tilt steering column if you have cruise control push your turn signal forward towards the dash some are a little sticky but it will click forward and and tilt
Dude, you saved me a ton of time and trouble getting my RV running again. Thanks for making this video, cheers!! The alternative, seeing as how I live far from any big cities, was to go far and wide in search of whole, used steering column. This was actually a huge time and money saver.
This is exactly why I post videos to my youtube account, thanks!
Those two pins that you removed with the small bolts are what your tilt column pivots on. Push the blinker rod towards the dash while wiggling the wheel for a pleasant surprise!
Ford's have used that design since the 70's before they started using a "tilt" lever for tilt only.
Dude, don't leave me hanging. What is the surprise?
@@RalphSampson... hey Ralph, so if you have a tilt wheel and you don't know it, that pretty much translates to the whole mechanism being pretty well stuck with lent and dust.
Not hard but push your turning signal lever towards the dash while wiggling it and the steering wheel. The surprise is your wheel should pop loose and you can adjust it. You should also see in the whole of the steering column where the lever comes out there's room for it to tilt forward as well as up and down for right and left turn.
88's and up typically have till wheels. Never seen one that doesn't really.
i was thoroughly entertained , thanks
hey skud, It looks like your still active on youtube, my 89 f250 (same thing), I cant get it to index right. do you have any tips on getting it back together?
Tim, can you point me to what part of the video you are refering to, it has been a very long time since I did this job,
Thanks!
Good Video
Your truck does have a tilt steering wheel by the way! All you have to do is push the turn signal lever forward to tilt the steering wheel!
+whatitis99 ya, I am a goof, someone else pointed that out, and you are right, I do have a tilt... :)
If you push the blinker lever forward the column will tilt, why else would it have the the pivot pins in it. Thanks for the video great info.
Derin Gebhardt even in the non-tilt column model, the tilt mechanism is there, just not usable, hence the pins :)
Very interesting, my apologies. Thanks for the clarification.
Derin Gebhardt no worries!! :)
This is super frustrating to me. I have removed the 3 screws holding the ignition switch housing on my 89 F250 However it refuses to budge. I tried also taking the lock cylinder out, but that makes no difference. I have tried drive, park and neutral but the ignition housing doesn't budge. What is the secret?
This was 5 years ago, what part are you trying to replace?
Unless Ford likes installing extra parts you do have tilt wheel. You push the turn lever down to adjust it.
I accidentally threw some parts away, i found three old fords all with tilt, mine is non tilt. I think Im gonna try and make it tilt. Im trying to locate a parts list.
this was very helpful as I just replaced the aluminum locking piece associated with the ignition that was broken in my 1989 f150. the piece i am talking about pushes the actuator rod when you turn the key. the actuator rod pushes on the ignition switch. when you push on the ignition switch it sends power to the "s" terminal on the fender wall mounted solenoid. on tilt steering take note later in his video about using the 8x32 screw to remove the pins on either side of the top part of the tilt steering. they come out fairly easy . i put a claw hammer on the screw and tapped the hammer with another one to get the screw out. do not pull the then released upper part of the two part steering column out too far as there is a spring on the both right side. just tip the top of the circular part back towards you enough to get the part back in the square slot. my aluminum actuator locking part was broken flush off. I took a long drill bit and drilled into the aluminum -easy- and tnen put a screw in the hole i drilled and pulled the part out with a needle nose. in his video he could grab the part-i could not. using the drill i got the part out in a few minutes. i had a problem with the starter staying engaged after start up --pulled my hair out. finally I put both screws in the solenoid on the fender wall. duh! and got a good ground established for the solenoid and now no problem. my posts on f150 forum about starters not dropping out and in my case it was poor grounding on the fender wall under the hood. regards
Just bought an 88 F350 anytime you go over a bump the engine cuts out it's definitely something to do with the ignition cause if you wiggle the key or hold it in a certain way it doesn't happen. Thanks for the video I can take apart or build a computer in under 30 min but I'm new to automotive work. Seems straight forward.
7;15 gesundheit
Thank you!
45,000+ views as I watch this... I'm glad there are helpful videos like this that help everyone. Thank you!
By the way, that's a good looking truck!
thanks, had no idea it would be so popular?... but glad it has helped anyone.
Thanks. This helped a lot.
so glad to hear, still have that truck as my backup, lol
I wanted to know how to change the actuator rod ...what's the easiest way to change it .
The wire bale that makes the wheel tilt. Underneath where it pushes up against the tilt lock arm/spring. Should there be anything on that end of the wire bale. Mine doesn't make contact when I push down on the signal arm to move the wheel. hope His makes sense, great vid by the way. As I'm having to replace both bearings and split the halves.
That Collin in the video is a tilt Collum. You can tell by the blinker switch
I was able to just yank mine off by hand
I have a 1988 f150 and need to know how to remove the rack in the column ? (the piece attached on the right side of the actuator rod ) please get back to me soonest as I have it all apart waiting to find out
will this work on a crown vic
no prob!
+Steven Long
ZF5 S42 is what is in it.
+cadudite thank you
I got a 1987 f250 and my igniton switch is sticking I have to raplace it. can I just push the pin out ( like in your video @ 5:02) without taking all the other stuff off?Thanks good video
Absolutely, don't take anything off, just push the pin in and viola!
for the year you need to remove steering wheel
and the pin is on top of turn signal hardware
@@skudwoofer I notice you said that you have to turn the key forward out of the lock position. What if my key will not turn? It's stuck with the steering wheel. Do you think it's the lock actuator or ignition switch?
@@angelaceves4510 like others have mentioned, I would pull the lockset by actuating the pin and if you can't turn the tumbler removed, if the key won't actuate the tumbler it may be bad. Did you try graphite powder in the lock? Try that and also you might use compressed air to blow the lock out and ensure there isn't a bunch of crud in there.
@@skudwoofer Going to try that today. Steering and key got stuck out of no where when I was trying to leave work. Tried the normal wiggle routine to unlock the key and steering but no luck. Been looking at a bunch of videos but everyone's problem is different then mine. I'll start with the ignition cylinder lock and go from there. Thanks for the advice
i have a 89 ford crown victoria. i lost my keys so i need something in a way to act as a key to be able to put it into gear and turn my steering. im able to manually start the car but not shift or turn. any help or opinions would be appreciated
+Aristotle Salmeron the lock tumbler probably is preventing you from putting it in gear (not sure on this one, maybe someone knows the car better) The tumbler set and new keys is like $15-$20 online, just checked....
I have a 1997 ford ranger 2.3ltr 2 wheel drive recently replaced flywheel drove 10 mls on freeway and started to hear a light knocking as i drove it got worse but only if i pushed the gas pedal any ideas what it could be? It would be highly appreciated thank you
Yes, the bolts are coming loose on the flywheel. You must use lock-tite on the threads or they will back out and cause the knocking sound and possibly break off in your crank shaft.
thank you so much for posting this! figured out it was my ignition switch. saved me so much grief. it was partially loose.
jesjox no problem, glad the video helped
I need help I have a ford bronco that turns on for a bit but then turn off what could it be????
+Daniella MTZ does it turn off on its own, or when there is movement in the column?
Hey buddy I need some help finding a plastic piece that going around the column u Kno that the ingition switch goes to do u Kno where I can find one it b great if u can get back to me
try www.lmctruck.com/
the actuator rod is the rod that runs from the steering column to the electronic ignition switch down the column.
Unfortunately you have to take the steering wheel off, and the turn signal electronics, to the point in my video where i show the little pin being pulled out that retains the rod. Also, you will want to take the 4 bolts off under the column which allows the column to drop down so you can take off the electronic ignition switch and get the actuator rod out from under it. (I would take off the 4 column bolts first and allow the column to drop down, that way the plastic trim bits come off easier from the column, if you have to take them off).
cadudite In re-reading my comment above. If you suspect it to be the electrical switch, I would just pull the 4 column bolts before doing anything else and see if the switch can be replaced without tearing anything else apart. If the switch can be unbolted and turned in such a way that doesn't require taking steering wheel off, etc. to get the rod out, then the job becomes about a 15-20min job.
*****
Cody, it has been a long time since I did this, but I think I know what you are asking. The part that has the teeth, has to be slid into a specific position to get the tumbler to work or rather rotate correctly into it's key on and starter positions. If I remember correctly, it took me a few tries to get the toothed part in the correct position so the tumbler would actuate correctly. It seems like there was even a position where the tumbler was even jammed, IE not able to rotate. For me it was trial and error, too far one way and the tumbler wouldn't rotate far enough to engage the starter
Cody, I hope that answers your question, I am sorry if it wasn't an exact explanation of what I did, I just remember having to get the gear that the rack engages with in the correct position so the tumbler would work correctly and it took me a few tries
Thank you so much for the annotations. I probably would have gone through the same teardown on my truck. You are saving me hours of time for the actuator replacement.
I have a 90 f150 and I can't find the pivot pins. please help!
Thank you for you knowledge and you are right what a pain in the ass. The biggest problem I had was that the replacement part needed to be dressed up so it would move smoothly in channel.
Thanks for the comment. Having to do it over again, I wish I would have pulled the pivot pins sooner, would have eliminated a whole bunch of grinding....
And did your truck run and than die and not start again before you did that
Christopher Cassidy it did run, but I had to have the ignition switch turned so far forward that the switch was almost all the way to the position that engages the starter. Mine was NOT a tilt column, which in turn, it ended up NOT being the aluminum transfer shaft that goes bad on tilt columns but the actual electrical switch that is located on top of the column down by the pedal assembly. The electrical switch was coming apart as I think I detail in this vid and was pretty easy to replace as compared to the other part.
Having issues w ignition sometimes it super hard to turn an sometimes easy
I’ve replaced switch
I dread taking apart the column
it's not too bad, just take your time, give your self a whole day to do it, especially if you end up needing parts and if you have a video camera (cell phone) record the parts you might forget how to put back together, that way if you get stuck, you can watch back how you took it apart.
Thanks I Was About half way to the point where you where !!! Thanks A LOT & God Bless !!!
Okay, so I still have a question: If the Actuator Rod is what presses the ignition switch, then is the Actuator Rod also be responsible for turning the accessories on, and also for turning the engine off? Showing my ignorance here, but I've got an '88 tilt that has had a push button start for many moons so igniting the engine isn't an issue, but as of earlier today I can't control the accessories or cut the engine witth they key/lock cylinder. The lock cylinder just spins freely
- Thanks man
Yes, everything that moves with the lock cylinder turns on accessories and etc
Do you need to take it all apart to replace the ignition switch ?
Christopher Cassidy no, ignition switch (mechanical part that key goes in) is easy. Stick key in ignition and turn so it is out of the lock position, depress pin underneath with a pointy object, (I used an awl) and the ignition switch should slide out. There are other vids on youtube showing just this step. Similar to this video, th-cam.com/video/3tMnqaawghM/w-d-xo.html except your column if it is an older ford will be metal and you can see the pin you are pushing in...
if you lower the wheel a bit its easier to get slack in the wiring. To remove pins a home made puller consisting of the right bolt/thread and tubing/socket and washers would work. if the key ends up out of adjustment there is a slip ring in the ignition (bottom of key holder) and the guts can be removed and adjusted with arm. Trial and error. I cut my new arm when I replaced the broken one instead of pulling anything apart further on manual tilt and seemed to work fine. I collect the 89-91`s along with other fords and I figured it was time to fix instead of replacing steering column. If a good cheap replacement column can be found its probably just as easy to replace column
great video. thanks...
Outstanding work! I think that actuator is my issue. You probably saved me a ton of time and ass pain.
Do you happen to have a part number handy for the part that breaks on the tilt steering? I just got the shop manual, but your video's been very helpful to follow as well. I'm still debating on whether to have a shop fix my tilt steering or do it myself. Any further insights/information would be helpful. Great video.
www.google.com/search?q=88+f250+tilt+column+actuator&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Thanks for the video and your efforts.
If I ran the engineering dept of Ford, I'd design a simple steering column that has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with anything but steering the front end. The ignition switch would be in the DASH, where it was on my OLD Ford truck (77 F150)
But, I keep forgetting, this is PROGRESS
lol, maybe progressive progress. cars are more "safe" for your "safety". Ve must protect you from yourself...... Crash standards ruined the chance for there to ever be a class of manufacturers that would be considered "small".
Nope. makes too much sense.
Believe it or not. Your steering column in this video is a tilt column. Push your turn signal lever forward (toward the dash). And the column tilts.
+4x41986ranger Just went and tried it, LOL, that is hysterical, all these years, I didn't know it was a tilt wheel, It works........
I didn't know mine what a tilt wheel either, until I took it apart and noticed it
Quality video, it's really going to help me out!
Broo. Just take the ignition switch out from the under the dash!
Thanks for the vid, helped me a lot. I'd already tore mine down but wanted to get references to put it back together. WAB
Watched the whole video with no steering column removal. Smh
Oh I look in the box of my new ignitions switch starter, there's some kind of clips metal. What or where does that go? @cadudite
+Mark Hight man it has been a long time since I did mine, I think the metal clips are retention clips, but I am not sure, you might head over to f150forum.com or a similar website and see if someone there can recall what those clips are for....
Lmao. That switch should’ve been the first check, and it’s removed very easily without having to remove much of anything
Would you like a gold star? The video has been helpful to a bunch of folks....
Ok thanks your video is great though ha!!!
Thanks for the video at first I was like "really?" about taking everything apart just to change the ignition starter switch til I read the comments below the video haha!! By the way I'm deaf so that why I couldn't hear what you're saying through out the whole video haha!!!
+Mark Hight sorry about not speaking louder, usually its the other way around, I am the one in the room that is being too loud :)
how did you get the metal piece with the groves that the key moves the actuator back and forth back on? I have the new one put in but can't figure out how to connect them.
Jim Cox B
I am battling this same issue. Not sure on the orientation of the brass gear and placement of the rack. I know when the key goes forward the rack should travel in the same direction. I haven't put it back together yet. It got dark
never mind I found them
This does not look worth the effort. I think I will run a little wire and put a push button on the dash that connects to the battery and the starter solenoid to start the truck. Easy Peasy! Surely something will get broken or lost with all these tear downs and rebuilds. Not worth it on a 25 year old truck.
Hello and thanks for answering peoples questions, now mine. I had a mechanic do this same repair to my 89 tilt column now the tilt wheel will NOT lock in the selected position The tilt lever works and the wheel will tilt all the way up or down but when I set the position I want, then with a little tug the wheel drops to the next lower position then with another little tug the wheel will drop to the in your lap position. It's safe to drive but a pain in the rear. Any ideas where to start with this repair.Yes the mobile mechanic flaked and would not come back as he promised. A second mobile mechanic finished putting the column back together but he could not fix it or see what was wrong any ideas would help. Thank you.
At 12:09 on the video, you will see a spring that holds the toothed keeper in a locked position unless the tilt mechanism has been actuated. I am wondering if when work was done on your vehicle, if that was removed. Were there any leftover parts that you found?
Please remember, I has been a looooong time since I did this work, so my recollection is a bit fuzzy, but being able to bump from position to position seems like the ratchet / pawl mechanism doesn't have the required spring?....
Thanks for your help that gives me a place to start thanks again
This guy is doing it all wrong he only needed to take two pins one on each side
All that work for nothing
Jesus, this video is 4 years old, chill mi amigo!
@@skudwoofer ok that makes the video better ok my bad
@@skudwoofer ok that makes the video better ok my bad
New ports on my steering wheel colom
Wair can I get New ports for mi steering wheel.
New ports on my steering wheel colom
New ports on my steering wheel colom