At the beginning, run a piece of masking tape from the top of the center of the steering wheel, down the top of the column. Then cut the tape where the wheel joins the column. This will allow you to be certain the splines line up perfectly when reattaching the steering wheel to the column.
One time I was out riding across the mountains in my 89 f150 with little brother following in his 88 ranger. Got down to a stop sign heading home and got a call from him telling me my turn signal and tail light wasn't working. I pulled off side of the road and checked the bulbs which were good got to looking at the wires and they were cut or broke on left side. It's sprinkling rain 40 degrees out and about 1 in the morning and I had plenty of beer but no electrical tape so my dumb drunk ass found a grocery bag under the seat cut me off a strip folded it up to thicken it a little wrapped it around the newly spliced wire and melted it with a bic lighter good enough to hold together. 3 years later the piece of grocery bag that saved me from a dui is still functioning as electrical tape.
dude this is awesome.didn't know you could just replace the cam. that saves me about 70 bucks. assuming this simply fixes the left blinker chillin out not clicking off and having to do it manually every time. right still clicks on and off but left flops.. and turns on even if I hit a good bump in the road. thanks so much!
Hey man don't be raggin on RadioShack solder, been using it for decades. Get a little tighter twist on those wires. Great video though! I did this a couple of years ago and my HELP TS cam has already broken. Also had to snip a little of the stiff spring wire off to get it to work back then. Hope yours lasts longer than mine did.
That switch had been replaced before that, I noticed the there wasn’t much wear on the horn pickups, maybe those are for the cruise control. I have that chore ahead of me on my ‘84 F250 diesel. Good sharp picture.
Thank God I found this I found the full assembly online for 40 I was losing my blinkers about 2 times a month restart my 81 f150 and they'd come right back but yesterday they just went bye wont do anything you can hear them if you move it a little but no continuous flashing so imma try I ordered it 5/3/20 its suppose to be here 5/6/20 so I kbo3w what I'll be doing this weekend
Thanks just the vid I needed to repair my Motorhome turn signal It's a John Deere chassis aka HD ford has the same steering wheel Now I just need to fine one on changing the key ignition assembly
Changing the ignition assembly is extremely easy. If you've pulled off the steering wheel before, you've pretty much done the job, except for the cylinder swap. Just search "1990 f150 ignition cylinder replacement". Good luck getting your rig spec'd up!
how do you know if it is just the cam or the whole switch? I am looking to buy this truck and this is the biggest problem it has and need to know if I can do it. Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello. I have an 84 e350. I turn the key on and flip the turn signal to the left and the arrow in the cluster lights up and so does the front and tail light. I turn it to the right and no light on the cluster (probably just a bulb) but I get a clicking sound and the front and tail light flashes. As soon as I pull on the the head lamps the turn signal freezes regardless of direction. There is no clicking and there are lights flashing. Might this be a turn signal switch like the one your video shows? Thank you for your insight
89 f250 351w xlt lariat every light works on my truck but when i turn on the flashers nothing happens and blinkers also stop functioning if i dont touch the hazard switch everything is fine (no point in chasing wires if everything else works same with the Turn flash relay in the fusebox can see it clicking when turn signal is on nothing when hazard switch is hit and the 1-15amp fuse is also good) which leads me to think a wires loose in the column or the switch failed? any suggestions feel free !
Is this what prevents the turn signal from staying depressed? I have to hold mine up or down it doesn’t like click into place like my new car. Am I correct in my thinking?
Help!!! Gotta do this job on my bronco in the next few days! What is weird is when I turn the right single it will also act like it’s shoring out cause the lights will flicker, does anyone know what this could be? Maybe some wire is touching something inside?
You think you can help me out. I have a 85 f150 and it won’t shift from inside the cab. But I unhook it from the bottom and put the trans in gear with my hand. But the shifter inside won’t work.
is this your vehicle? and what state you in? I have a 1986 ford f150 xlt lariat, it has problems and i need help fixing it and learning about it. thanks for your videos!
When i installed my cam it has broken twice now on the right signla where the plastic catches to hold it in place and then it wont connect i guess to turn the signal on so i cant even hold it
Great video but have you had trouble with your brake lights? Mine do not work consistently, either one or the other will turn on when I press the brake and which brake light turns on depends on the position of the turn signal switch. Any ideas?
My husband replaced that same piece and the same happened to his truck, was hoping to have it running for 4th of July weekend but I guess we’ll have to wait 😕
The aftermarkets cams just don't click-to-lock as good as the OE Cams...I've replaced it a few times. Tried one from Rock auto (junk) and also one from Autozone, also junk.
I replaced the entire plastic assembly - ran the new wires - on my back upside down etc etc. Should have watched your repair first, My horn is not working now so I will pull off the horn again and maybe pull the steering wheel. OH when has a repair gone perfect? Not too often but sometimes.
This was a poor solution. Don't cut shit. You will have a bulky pile of junk once completed doing this way. Don't be a hack. Think how the factory installed it. They didn't cut shit to put it together. It is a puzzle you need to solve. Proper procedure.... 1) Leave the collar on the column. It's a bitch to put back correctly, anyway. 2) The gray plastic connector you so astutely showed at the bottom of the column that was too difficult to remove is exactly what needs to be disconnected. It isn't too tough to do. 3) Once disconnected, you will see there is a red keeper in the connector. Pull the red keeper. This will allow the wires to be removed from the gray plastic connector. 4) Pull the wires individually up through the steering wheel collar. Pay attention to the path the wires take. 5) Open the package with the new switch and take a few pictures of the location of the wires as they are in the gray plastic connector. This is a requirement as the colors of the wires may be different from the factory. 6) Remove the red keeper from the new gray connector and remove the wires. 7) Push the wires individually back down through the column's collar. Follow the path from whence they came. 8) Reinstall the wires in their respective holes in the gray plastic connector. Reinstall the red keeper. 9) Install the new switch mechanism onto the column. 10) Reconnect the gray connector at the bottom of the column. 11) Put the steering wheel, column, lower dash panels and eveything else back together. Done. I just this last Saturday. Lesson: Don't destroy something to take it apart. If you can't figure it, find the right TH-cam video or the right commenter. The correct answer is here or in your head.
At the beginning, run a piece of masking tape from the top of the center of the steering wheel, down the top of the column. Then cut the tape where the wheel joins the column. This will allow you to be certain the splines line up perfectly when reattaching the steering wheel to the column.
my ford bronco -89 steering wheel cant be put back wrong lucky me.
no wait neither on this ford. the cogs have this flat space on both the column and steering wheel so it is only available to reattach it one way
This is how a tutorial video is done. Thanks!
Just noticed the zip-tie around the parking break and the release, I do the same thing lol 😂
Good job! you saved my butt. Very well done! The video had good angles, clear audio, and a quick pace.
Thanks! Glad to help out!
Damn this looks like more of a pain in the ass than I thought it would be
One time I was out riding across the mountains in my 89 f150 with little brother following in his 88 ranger. Got down to a stop sign heading home and got a call from him telling me my turn signal and tail light wasn't working. I pulled off side of the road and checked the bulbs which were good got to looking at the wires and they were cut or broke on left side. It's sprinkling rain 40 degrees out and about 1 in the morning and I had plenty of beer but no electrical tape so my dumb drunk ass found a grocery bag under the seat cut me off a strip folded it up to thicken it a little wrapped it around the newly spliced wire and melted it with a bic lighter good enough to hold together. 3 years later the piece of grocery bag that saved me from a dui is still functioning as electrical tape.
Good video Clear and concise. Thank you!
Really good video, save me a bunch of work AND money. Thanks so much!
dude this is awesome.didn't know you could just replace the cam. that saves me about 70 bucks. assuming this simply fixes the left blinker chillin out not clicking off and having to do it manually every time. right still clicks on and off but left flops.. and turns on even if I hit a good bump in the road. thanks so much!
Literally exactly what I'm dealing with
Thanks! Nice video..clean, concise and to the point.. easy to follow.
Thanks for showing how to do it,and your time.
Helpful video. Thanks.
Hey man don't be raggin on RadioShack solder, been using it for decades. Get a little tighter twist on those wires. Great video though! I did this a couple of years ago and my HELP TS cam has already broken. Also had to snip a little of the stiff spring wire off to get it to work back then. Hope yours lasts longer than mine did.
That switch had been replaced before that, I noticed the there wasn’t much wear on the horn pickups, maybe those are for the cruise control. I have that chore ahead of me on my ‘84 F250 diesel. Good sharp picture.
Thank God I found this I found the full assembly online for 40 I was losing my blinkers about 2 times a month restart my 81 f150 and they'd come right back but yesterday they just went bye wont do anything you can hear them if you move it a little but no continuous flashing so imma try I ordered it 5/3/20 its suppose to be here 5/6/20 so I kbo3w what I'll be doing this weekend
Thanks just the vid I needed to repair my Motorhome turn signal It's a John Deere chassis aka HD ford has the same steering wheel Now I just need to fine one on changing the key ignition assembly
Changing the ignition assembly is extremely easy. If you've pulled off the steering wheel before, you've pretty much done the job, except for the cylinder swap. Just search "1990 f150 ignition cylinder replacement". Good luck getting your rig spec'd up!
a very nice video. I would suggest using the proper size heat shrink. I makes for a much neater job.
how do you know if it is just the cam or the whole switch? I am looking to buy this truck and this is the biggest problem it has and need to know if I can do it. Thanks in advance for any answers.
Nice truck
Hello. I have an 84 e350. I turn the key on and flip the turn signal to the left and the arrow in the cluster lights up and so does the front and tail light. I turn it to the right and no light on the cluster (probably just a bulb) but I get a clicking sound and the front and tail light flashes. As soon as I pull on the the head lamps the turn signal freezes regardless of direction. There is no clicking and there are lights flashing. Might this be a turn signal switch like the one your video shows? Thank you for your insight
I just recently got an 83 F150, and i need the whole steering thing (ignition and signal) replaced, do you have anything to help
where does that ground wire go?
The 2 Harmonic screws were 5/16 - 18 Fine thread on my 89 F250.
89 f250 351w xlt lariat every light works on my truck but when i turn on the flashers nothing happens and blinkers also stop functioning if i dont touch the hazard switch everything is fine (no point in chasing wires if everything else works same with the Turn flash relay in the fusebox can see it clicking when turn signal is on nothing when hazard switch is hit and the 1-15amp fuse is also good) which leads me to think a wires loose in the column or the switch failed? any suggestions feel free !
Is this what prevents the turn signal from staying depressed? I have to hold mine up or down it doesn’t like click into place like my new car. Am I correct in my thinking?
Help!!! Gotta do this job on my bronco in the next few days! What is weird is when I turn the right single it will also act like it’s shoring out cause the lights will flicker, does anyone know what this could be? Maybe some wire is touching something inside?
You think you can help me out. I have a 85 f150 and it won’t shift from inside the cab. But I unhook it from the bottom and put the trans in gear with my hand. But the shifter inside won’t work.
Junior Garcia the rod that goes from the tranny to the steering coumn is out
is this your vehicle? and what state you in? I have a 1986 ford f150 xlt lariat, it has problems and i need help fixing it and learning about it. thanks for your videos!
What if you don't know how to solder? Do you still need to cut the wires back when buying the cam?
When i installed my cam it has broken twice now on the right signla where the plastic catches to hold it in place and then it wont connect i guess to turn the signal on so i cant even hold it
Great video but have you had trouble with your brake lights? Mine do not work consistently, either one or the other will turn on when I press the brake and which brake light turns on depends on the position of the turn signal switch.
Any ideas?
Ford runs the brake lights through the turn signal switch in the column for the emergency flashers.
Replace the whole unit. That happened to me after doing the cam only. The whole unit fixed it.
mine is doing that now.
this does look like a pita.. im just gonna replace the whole switch like mamunoz ^
My husband replaced that same piece and the same happened to his truck, was hoping to have it running for 4th of July weekend but I guess we’ll have to wait 😕
How can i get this replacement for a 1980 Ford 250, what's the pieces brand name?
Greetings from Perú.
Thank you.
Just FYI if it's a bullnose pickup you don't need to cut and solder any wires so don't be scared to get into it
People do not forget to disconnect the battery before doing this job !
True. Disconnect the negative post.
Isn't the steering wheel too thin to have an airbag
@@ag6371 yeah i just did this job. Nothing to worry about. Didnt disconnect batt.
This doesn’t have an airbag so it’s not that important
Will this work.on a 88 ford ranger 2.9
I don't think it will. The Rangers used a different style column and had a different turn signal switch.
The aftermarkets cams just don't click-to-lock as good as the OE Cams...I've replaced it a few times. Tried one from Rock auto (junk) and also one from Autozone, also junk.
At least it's legal and works
I replaced the entire plastic assembly - ran the new wires - on my back upside down etc etc. Should have watched your repair first, My horn is not working now so I will pull off the horn again and maybe pull the steering wheel. OH when has a repair gone perfect? Not too often but sometimes.
Someone need to introduce this gentleman to a ratchet
Hazard signals didn't work? Struggling to fix mine on a 1986 F350..
You need some power tools, bruh!
I'm on that. I just bought an impact driver and a cordless drill.
This was a poor solution. Don't cut shit. You will have a bulky pile of junk once completed doing this way. Don't be a hack.
Think how the factory installed it. They didn't cut shit to put it together. It is a puzzle you need to solve.
Proper procedure....
1) Leave the collar on the column. It's a bitch to put back correctly, anyway.
2) The gray plastic connector you so astutely showed at the bottom of the column that was too difficult to remove is exactly what needs to be disconnected. It isn't too tough to do.
3) Once disconnected, you will see there is a red keeper in the connector. Pull the red keeper. This will allow the wires to be removed from the gray plastic connector.
4) Pull the wires individually up through the steering wheel collar. Pay attention to the path the wires take.
5) Open the package with the new switch and take a few pictures of the location of the wires as they are in the gray plastic connector. This is a requirement as the colors of the wires may be different from the factory.
6) Remove the red keeper from the new gray connector and remove the wires.
7) Push the wires individually back down through the column's collar. Follow the path from whence they came.
8) Reinstall the wires in their respective holes in the gray plastic connector. Reinstall the red keeper.
9) Install the new switch mechanism onto the column.
10) Reconnect the gray connector at the bottom of the column.
11) Put the steering wheel, column, lower dash panels and eveything else back together.
Done.
I just this last Saturday.
Lesson: Don't destroy something to take it apart. If you can't figure it, find the right TH-cam video or the right commenter. The correct answer is here or in your head.
who cares, it's an old shitbox....they are agricultural machines, what planet are you living on.
That was a GREAT comment. Glad I saw it and thank you.