87-96 Ford Bronco/ OBS Ford F-Series Bucket Seat Cushion is on sale for $135 plus ship. Will not fit 40/20/40 (these are in preorder status) I take Venmo, PayPal, Zelle, Cashapp or mail me a check. Email me at n2kpi@yahoo.com for more instructions. Please remember to include your full name, EMAIL and mailing address
Thank you. We got tired of videos were people just snap their fingers in the task would be completed. We actually wanted to show you how to accomplish it
@@BroncosandPartsGarageI love that! I try to follow the same mindset with my own content, because when I started to learn how to maintain my own vehicles, I found a lot of videos that skipped over the finer details, and that left me feeling very unconfident in what I was doing. Some people complain about the length of my videos, but I'd much rather include too much information than too little...folks can always fast forward, but they can't add in what I skip over. Well done - keep up the good work, and thanks for the great content!
Well done! I'm restoring a 95 Bronco, and this was a great video. You have a knack for preparing these videos and helping others. Thank you for your hard work.
If any of y'all are buying those shifter boots new, it's actually cheaper to just get a new arm/boot combo than just buying the boot. You may find one cheaper, but I recently bought one for my 97 Econoline (same shifter and boot), and it was $60 or $70 for just the boot, and it's the same price for both boot and shifter arm. YMMV. Great vid!
UNREAL....DUDE you are awesome. Thank you so much for doing these Bronco videos...I am a new owner of 96 FSB that I dragged home from someone's backyard that sat for years and so I am grateful for these videos.
Went to back my 1992 out of the garage this morning and heard a pop, then got a limp shifter. The cable on the trans and the selector are solid, so here I am.
Thank you for the excellent video. The sloppy shifter arm on my 2002 F-350 turned out to be the result of a sheared bolt at the bottom of the shifter tube where the bracket that connects to the shifter cable attaches to the bottom of the shifter tube. After watching your video, I decided to swap out the bushings at the same time. The part number for the bolts that hold the bracket to the shifter tube is N806584-S437. I had to get the bolts from the local Ford dealer. I was able to pull the shifter tube down and out of the steering column after removing the bracket and bushing clamps without having to remove the whole steering column. The sheared bolt could probably have been removed in place since it sticks out the bottom of the threaded opening at the bottom of the tube and was fairly loose, but I was just as glad to get the tube out of the truck and thoroughly clean it as you demonstrate. The tube had a rough weld seam where the bushings were mounted, so I also carefully filed that smooth and buffed it out and lubed the new bushings before putting it all back together. Total cost about $38. Thanks!
I'm really enjoying this video.! This was great.! I have a 96 F-150 4x4 and my overdrive has quit working so you were working on the shifter but also showed me how to fix my overdrive.! Thanks.! Great video.!
Great video, this is a massive problem on these older Ford’s that use this shifter system, I almost think this should’ve been a recall, same with the shift indicator issue too. On my ‘99 Ranger, I replaced the shifter pin, bushings & then used thread locker on the bolts above the clamps, fixed the problem.
Another fantastic video. I replaced the shifter tube bushings on my Explorer a couple of years ago and would have greatly benefited from watching this video before I began that project. Thanks again for sharing your practical knowledge and home mechanic experience and expertise. Those plastic shims are an excellent idea that I will copy and use in the future. Keep up the great work 👏👏💯
Thank you for this excellent video! Really helped me out on my 2000 Ford Windstar, which has a similar shift tube assembly setup. I'm especially thankful for ALL the time you spent showing your solution for shimming the gear lever itself, to eliminate the slop -- slop that remains even after you've replaced the shift tube bushings, etc. I watched that part of the video twice! That slop was driving me crazy, given my "every repair I make has to be perfect or it's no good" tendencies. Big thumbs up!
A big thank you for the detailed video. Replaced my bushings and did the same shim as you. Also tightened the back 2 bolts the shifter tube. It's now so smooth and factory fresh or better. 👍
EXCELLENT !! THANK YOU. JUST BOUGHT 2002 RANGER. LOW MILES AND VERY GOOD BODY BUT MECHANICLY NEGLECTED. SHIFTER IS REALLY BAD. I THINK IT'S IN PARK AND THEN IT ROLLS BACK. SOMETIME IT JUST KEEPS MOVING AND SOMETIMES IT SLAMS INTO PARK. I HOPE THE TRANS PAWL ISN'T DAMAGED. THANKS AGAIN.
Just ordered my bushings and ordered the replacement dash from Ford so gonna try and fix up the last couple things my dash/ trim needs before moving to the HVAC.
I have a high mileage 96 F-150. I've had that apart trying to get the play out of the shift lever. I ended up making an aluminum shim to fit in the slot. Problem with that was I could not get the aluminum insert clip the right thickness. It seems the bolt is warn, the pot metal has widened and worn some and the shifter is just wobbly . After watching this, probably this summer, i will go back in and try the washer trick. My 91 F-150 was so warn, I pulled it out completely and bought a complete Bronco steering assembly on Ebay and installed it. Only issue on the 91 was the plastic cover from the F-150 is a different size than the Bronco piece. I just electrical taped it in place. The steering column bearing issue seems to be caused by fat guys using the steering wheel to pull them into the cab. LOL ! Going to your website. Thank You !
Awesome training...I was going cut a cheap feeler gauge to fix the shifter arm slop but the nylon bushings are a great idea. You might mention the bracket way under the column tends to come loose on all Fords, thread locker takes care of that, I think it's also a number 30 torx. Thanks Again
Thanks! Yes that bracket does come loose. I’ve mentioned it on some forums as well. Cannot edit published content unfortunately. Let me know how it goes.
I got a new shifter with od button and boot, new plunger tube and bushings and new pin❤ also got the turn signal switch assembly and the ignition switch and actuator bar. Im doing a restoration on this truck everything except body work. It is a 97 f250 xlt diesel. Crew cab short bed. It displays all of the typical obs problems and then some. Mostly just really well used and stuff eventually wore out or died. Restoring my drivers door after my column is 100% again. Door repair kit from cp addict and new pins latch and striker. Then doing brakes and suspension..it runs fantastic and very strong so im saving the engine for last. Has a disc brake rear end from a newer truck but still 8x6.5 all around on factory alcoas. Cannot waotnto start daily driving this after i get my psrking brake hooked up. The disc brake swap left the rear cables about 6" in shy of the intermediate cable. Making an extension tonight hopefully getting my parking brake working again❤
I switched from using a gasket maker material to using an actual pre-cut gasket from Fel-Pro. Was kinda nervous about it leaking at first but I installed it dry (as the instructions sate) immediately filled and drove it. Not a leak. Just an idea. That way you don't have to wait hours/days for the gasket maker to cure, nor do you have to worry about how much to use or if there was a good seal.
Wow way more involved than I thought. Mine isn't that bad. I do want to replace that rubber boot though as mine is torn and gummy too so good video for that.
Great instructional video. Might add though that also with not wanting to hear the annoying door chime, it's also a good idea to disconnect battery when working around the column steering because of the air bag in the steering will. I believe the air bag module is around that column some where. Thanks for the video. Another to do on the list.. Haha
I have a new steering shaft and redhead steering box I have to put in my 95 Flareside on my channel after I do this little quick fix as well. Thank you great video.
Just earned a like and a new subscriber. I just picked up a pretty solid 94 Bronco, but the shifter arm is pretty loose. Definitely going to consult this video for that repair.
Bit of a funny thing, one year ago I had my shifter nearly binding, it was just very very picky, had to handle it right to use it, and I was good at that. I was at a tire shop, and the tech finished off that shifter tube for me (it was already toast), the entire tube and inside sheared in half. It was 2 piece, and that was a lot of fun I tell ya. We replaced it in the parking lot but it’s been a year, mine is pretty dang floppy. I actually just swapped my transmission and I’m a tad worried that I did something to the cable but I have to go past P to get into Park and drive is basically at Neutral. Time to dig in I guess haha, make sure the bushings are still there and everything is tight. Excellent video on the topic though, I just figured out how to tear down the column like that sitting there and dealing with it, and I wish I had watched this before that broke so I wouldn’t have spent a few hours in a parking lot on my birthday haha.
At the bottom of your steering column there are three gold torques screws. Make sure all three of them are very tight before you proceed. When these are loose the indicator will be off by one or two detents. Please let me know if they were loose
good video thanks for the info. Have you done any research into eliminating the smog pump and all the vacuum lines? I live in a no emission testing area. I bought a super clean 95 Bronco from out west. It has a check engine light and Id like to eliminate the smog and engine restrictive emissions garbage
Great channel - appreciate the references you've made to places for parts and products. didn't here what lube you used for the bushings on the shifter column though. Did I miss that?
Great video !! well explained and video capture. Well done my friend. This doesn't pertain to my 95 GMC but I have some of the same issues.. Thank you for a very informed video keep up the great work
Most fords used the same shifter link in the steering column all of the Panthers are the same I had one laying around because I assumed it would go bad eventually it's just a hair loose and then the one on the F-150 from 94 broke so I used the 2007 Mercury Grand Marquis part and its identical
Bought the parts and followed along with your video and it went very smooth. Thank you. You say you sell used boots? Where? Mine is torn. Thanks. Be safe!
Hey Chris have You thought about doing a video on the removal and installation of the seals for the tops, I acquired my bronco with a soft top and can't find a video or a diagram of the proper installation of the rubber seals, great video.
Dorman sells these orange rubber bushing things, but it didn't really seem to do much for me. Are those in the original OEM, or just an aftermarket patch kind of thing? Also, in my F250, the spring action that controls the fore/aft movement of the lever seems to be weak, like you need to manually push it forward after changing gears sometimes. What controls that? Great video BTW.
If you were to change out your gauge cluster mainly the speedo cluster does it take some special calibration to match it to your truck or can it be popped out of another cluster and just installed? The previous owner of my 94 f250 printed the Speedo pod a horrible color. If you know the answer to this question I would appreciate the complete answer thank you great video.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage THANK YOU for your reply I was told you had to go to ford and get some kind of calibration or authorization to match your ols guage. So in my case, I have a 94 F250 shouldn't any gauge out of a 92-97 cluster work?
I definitely need to do this. Ordering bushing and pin. Can the play be so bad that you can't reach all gears? After Neutral, I only hit one more gear and there should be 3, D w circle, D, and 1.
Thanks for watching. The issue yiur habing is with the three gold colored torx screws at the bottom of the column. Tighten them and your issue should go away. (Down the column near the knuckle are by pedals)
@@BroncosandPartsGarage thanks for response. I looked under and couldn't find 3 gold colored screws. What would this fix be called so I can search it or do you have a video of it?
Does that pin stick thru the bottom enough to chuck it in a drill and cut a slight groove in it enough to put an e-clip in it so you don’t have to reuse the capture clip for the pin?
To add, never hurts to look at the cable on the bracket by the transmission lever. Mine had somehow "got slack" and actually started "pushing" hard against my shift arm on trans, that it bent it inward towards the trans when in park.... anyway... I popped it off trans, carefully bent the trans arm closer to normal, and then pulled the adjustment clip on the cable, then reattached the shift cable to the trans, and then put the clip in. it moved a couple slots in (or whatever)
You mentioned researching a lubricant to use on shifter bushings, but never said what you found, nor did you add anything while reinstalling. Was that on purpose?
Could these bushing being worn out cause a no crank no start? I’ll have to put the truck in neutral and back in park or hold the shifter up to get it to crank?
@Broncos and Parts Garage ok thank you! I am trying to sand down a metal washer and use that to shim it which I think might work if it's a tight enough fit.
I just did my Ford E350 column and you do not have to take the top cover off of the display gauges. Just take the kick panel off then the 4, 13mm mounting bolts and you have plenty of room, even if you have to take whole steering gear. My center pin that slides broke.
87-96 Ford Bronco/ OBS Ford F-Series Bucket Seat Cushion is on sale for $135 plus ship. Will not fit 40/20/40 (these are in preorder status)
I take Venmo, PayPal, Zelle, Cashapp or mail me a check.
Email me at n2kpi@yahoo.com for more instructions.
Please remember to include your full name, EMAIL and mailing address
LOOKING FOR AIR TUBES FROM AIR BOX TO THROTTLE BODY 96 F350 7.5L WITH MASS AIR FLOW(ANY THOUGHTS)
details details details.....nothing else on the web this detailed!!
Thank you. We got tired of videos were people just snap their fingers in the task would be completed. We actually wanted to show you how to accomplish it
Does all that go into transmission
@@BroncosandPartsGarageI love that! I try to follow the same mindset with my own content, because when I started to learn how to maintain my own vehicles, I found a lot of videos that skipped over the finer details, and that left me feeling very unconfident in what I was doing. Some people complain about the length of my videos, but I'd much rather include too much information than too little...folks can always fast forward, but they can't add in what I skip over. Well done - keep up the good work, and thanks for the great content!
Well done! I'm restoring a 95 Bronco, and this was a great video. You have a knack for preparing these videos and helping others. Thank you for your hard work.
Thank you.
Video of the month right here!
I can't stand my floppy shifter. Thank you!
Glad to help!
If any of y'all are buying those shifter boots new, it's actually cheaper to just get a new arm/boot combo than just buying the boot. You may find one cheaper, but I recently bought one for my 97 Econoline (same shifter and boot), and it was $60 or $70 for just the boot, and it's the same price for both boot and shifter arm. YMMV.
Great vid!
I sell the boots used but no holes for $27
This video made me realize that I don’t really mind the slop in my OBS Ford Shifter
Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the info!
UNREAL....DUDE you are awesome. Thank you so much for doing these Bronco videos...I am a new owner of 96 FSB that I dragged home from someone's backyard that sat for years and so I am grateful for these videos.
Glad to help
I followed your guide to fixing a sloppy gear shifter and it worked great. Thank you so much! Proud owner of 1995 Ford F-150 with a stiff shifter.
That’s great to hear!!
Went to back my 1992 out of the garage this morning and heard a pop, then got a limp shifter. The cable on the trans and the selector are solid, so here I am.
Hope the video helps
I doubt there is a single downthumb on this video. Excellent DIY. You are the OBS guy.
I appreciate that!
great detailed video. no "finger snaps" and it done. thank you for real content
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the excellent video. The sloppy shifter arm on my 2002 F-350 turned out to be the result of a sheared bolt at the bottom of the shifter tube where the bracket that connects to the shifter cable attaches to the bottom of the shifter tube. After watching your video, I decided to swap out the bushings at the same time. The part number for the bolts that hold the bracket to the shifter tube is N806584-S437. I had to get the bolts from the local Ford dealer. I was able to pull the shifter tube down and out of the steering column after removing the bracket and bushing clamps without having to remove the whole steering column. The sheared bolt could probably have been removed in place since it sticks out the bottom of the threaded opening at the bottom of the tube and was fairly loose, but I was just as glad to get the tube out of the truck and thoroughly clean it as you demonstrate. The tube had a rough weld seam where the bushings were mounted, so I also carefully filed that smooth and buffed it out and lubed the new bushings before putting it all back together. Total cost about $38. Thanks!
That’s awesome. Glad it helped
Awesome video.
Those shims are where a 3D printer would excel. You could draw up what you need and print it exactly what you need in nylon or PETG.
great suggestion!
I'm really enjoying this video.! This was great.! I have a 96 F-150 4x4 and my overdrive has quit working so you were working on the shifter but also showed me how to fix my overdrive.! Thanks.! Great video.!
Right on!
Great video, this is a massive problem on these older Ford’s that use this shifter system, I almost think this should’ve been a recall, same with the shift indicator issue too. On my ‘99 Ranger, I replaced the shifter pin, bushings & then used thread locker on the bolts above the clamps, fixed the problem.
Thanks. Hope it helped
Great video... like all your videos. Keeps me from making mistakes, saves time and money with a "do it yourself" mindset. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do! Please remember to let the commercials play that - helps me
Awesome man...so glad I found you....got a 84 F250 and 91 F150.....needed this kind of help....keep on posting...
Thanks, will do! I have a few brick posts
Chris, you are the shizzzzzz!!! I may have to watch this a few times but you cover every step down to the finest detail!THANKS!!!
Thanks!!! Hope it helps
Another fantastic video. I replaced the shifter tube bushings on my Explorer a couple of years ago and would have greatly benefited from watching this video before I began that project. Thanks again for sharing your practical knowledge and home mechanic experience and expertise. Those plastic shims are an excellent idea that I will copy and use in the future. Keep up the great work 👏👏💯
Thanks. Hope it helps
Thank you for this excellent video! Really helped me out on my 2000 Ford Windstar, which has a similar shift tube assembly setup. I'm especially thankful for ALL the time you spent showing your solution for shimming the gear lever itself, to eliminate the slop -- slop that remains even after you've replaced the shift tube bushings, etc. I watched that part of the video twice! That slop was driving me crazy, given my "every repair I make has to be perfect or it's no good" tendencies. Big thumbs up!
Thank you. Glad it helps. Good to know it works on similar year Fords!!!
A big thank you for the detailed video. Replaced my bushings and did the same shim as you. Also tightened the back 2 bolts the shifter tube. It's now so smooth and factory fresh or better. 👍
Nice work!
Best Anti-Slop video I've seen so far. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you
EXCELLENT !! THANK YOU. JUST BOUGHT 2002 RANGER. LOW MILES AND VERY GOOD BODY BUT MECHANICLY NEGLECTED. SHIFTER IS REALLY BAD. I THINK IT'S IN PARK AND THEN IT ROLLS BACK. SOMETIME IT JUST KEEPS MOVING AND SOMETIMES IT SLAMS INTO PARK. I HOPE THE TRANS PAWL ISN'T DAMAGED. THANKS AGAIN.
At bottom of column there are 3 t30 torx screws. Tighten those up too. Probably solve ur problem.
I really appreciate all of your detailed time on your video !
Thank you. Hope it helped!
Thanx... looks just like the clusterfuk I'm gonna dive into,,,appreciate the narrative
No problem. Don’t forget the three gold torx screws at the bottom of your column near the joints. Those loosen up too.
Just ordered my bushings and ordered the replacement dash from Ford so gonna try and fix up the last couple things my dash/ trim needs before moving to the HVAC.
Nice!
I have a high mileage 96 F-150. I've had that apart trying to get the play out of the shift lever. I ended up making an aluminum shim to fit in the slot. Problem with that was I could not get the aluminum insert clip the right thickness. It seems the bolt is warn, the pot metal has widened and worn some and the shifter is just wobbly . After watching this, probably this summer, i will go back in and try the washer trick. My 91 F-150 was so warn, I pulled it out completely and bought a complete Bronco steering assembly on Ebay and installed it. Only issue on the 91 was the plastic cover from the F-150 is a different size than the Bronco piece. I just electrical taped it in place. The steering column bearing issue seems to be caused by fat guys using the steering wheel to pull them into the cab. LOL ! Going to your website. Thank You !
Glad it helped. The pot metal is the issue and 90’s quality control. The plastic has held up for a year so far
Awesome training...I was going cut a cheap feeler gauge to fix the shifter arm slop but the nylon bushings are a great idea. You might mention the bracket way under the column tends to come loose on all Fords, thread locker takes care of that, I think it's also a number 30 torx. Thanks Again
Thanks! Yes that bracket does come loose. I’ve mentioned it on some forums as well. Cannot edit published content unfortunately. Let me know how it goes.
I got a new shifter with od button and boot, new plunger tube and bushings and new pin❤ also got the turn signal switch assembly and the ignition switch and actuator bar. Im doing a restoration on this truck everything except body work. It is a 97 f250 xlt diesel. Crew cab short bed. It displays all of the typical obs problems and then some. Mostly just really well used and stuff eventually wore out or died. Restoring my drivers door after my column is 100% again. Door repair kit from cp addict and new pins latch and striker. Then doing brakes and suspension..it runs fantastic and very strong so im saving the engine for last. Has a disc brake rear end from a newer truck but still 8x6.5 all around on factory alcoas. Cannot waotnto start daily driving this after i get my psrking brake hooked up. The disc brake swap left the rear cables about 6" in shy of the intermediate cable. Making an extension tonight hopefully getting my parking brake working again❤
Sounds like a great project!!
I had to swap the main arm,replace the bushings and then put my arm back in. but its right now. thansk.
I was happy when it wasn’t flopping around as I drove
Great video. Thanks for the great tips on this sloppy annoying problem. i need to do my 1995 aerostar....works on many different vehicles..
Thanks. Glad it helped. 95 ‘star! lol. I had one and a wind.
Really great detailed video! Super helpful. Nice work!
Thanks so much!
Good job. Very intricate details.
Thanks!
I switched from using a gasket maker material to using an actual pre-cut gasket from Fel-Pro. Was kinda nervous about it leaking at first but I installed it dry (as the instructions sate) immediately filled and drove it. Not a leak.
Just an idea. That way you don't have to wait hours/days for the gasket maker to cure, nor do you have to worry about how much to use or if there was a good seal.
Wrong video, but yes, some guys used the gaskets.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Ah sorry, I guess it autoplayed the next video before my comment
These are the best videos, and very well produced. Thanks for taking time to make them 🍻👍
Thank you. Lots of fun making too.
Watched the whole video. I'm getting ready to have to do this to mine. I have to replace my shifter so I think this video will help me do that
You got this! Easy Peasy 😄
Excellent instructional video Chris, great job!
Thanks. Please subscribe and hit the notification bell.
Wow way more involved than I thought. Mine isn't that bad. I do want to replace that rubber boot though as mine is torn and gummy too so good video for that.
Replacing the two shifter shaft bushings isn’t too bad. But it’s worth it big time. Thanks for watching it
Great instructional video. Might add though that also with not wanting to hear the annoying door chime, it's also a good idea to disconnect battery when working around the column steering because of the air bag in the steering will. I believe the air bag module is around that column some where. Thanks for the video. Another to do on the list.. Haha
Thanks for the comment. Yes, another great reason to disconnect the batt !!
Excellent as always Chris!!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a new steering shaft and redhead steering box I have to put in my 95 Flareside on my channel after I do this little quick fix as well. Thank you great video.
I have that project ready to go as well !!
Add this to the list of stuff i need to do on my bronco 🙃
Get it done!! Easy little projects
Got a lot of cool videos man! Thanks for the rear view mirror!
No problem 👍
Just earned a like and a new subscriber. I just picked up a pretty solid 94 Bronco, but the shifter arm is pretty loose. Definitely going to consult this video for that repair.
Thanks for the sub!
Having the shifter cable fixed at the shop today. Haven't found out how much yet.
That’s an easy fix too
Bit of a funny thing, one year ago I had my shifter nearly binding, it was just very very picky, had to handle it right to use it, and I was good at that. I was at a tire shop, and the tech finished off that shifter tube for me (it was already toast), the entire tube and inside sheared in half. It was 2 piece, and that was a lot of fun I tell ya.
We replaced it in the parking lot but it’s been a year, mine is pretty dang floppy. I actually just swapped my transmission and I’m a tad worried that I did something to the cable but I have to go past P to get into Park and drive is basically at Neutral. Time to dig in I guess haha, make sure the bushings are still there and everything is tight.
Excellent video on the topic though, I just figured out how to tear down the column like that sitting there and dealing with it, and I wish I had watched this before that broke so I wouldn’t have spent a few hours in a parking lot on my birthday haha.
At the bottom of your steering column there are three gold torques screws. Make sure all three of them are very tight before you proceed. When these are loose the indicator will be off by one or two detents. Please let me know if they were loose
Welp now I have a project for tomorrow. No more flop!
It’s a great fix. Comment if you have any more tips.
Awesome video, thanks for the step by step!
No problem.
Wow man you nailed it! Beautiful work. Would those tiny spring washers work instead of the nylon shims? Me talking bout the spring washers look wavy.😅
Possibly. I’m down for any suggestions and input. Mine is still holding up well.
good video thanks for the info. Have you done any research into eliminating the smog pump and all the vacuum lines? I live in a no emission testing area. I bought a super clean 95 Bronco from out west. It has a check engine light and Id like to eliminate the smog and engine restrictive emissions garbage
I’ve removed one before. But as far as performance, not much of a difference. No video though.
Exactly what I was looking for
Hope it helps!!
Another great tutorial video, Thank you Chris. !
Glad you liked it!
Great channel - appreciate the references you've made to places for parts and products. didn't here what lube you used for the bushings on the shifter column though. Did I miss that?
I used a little lithium grease. Very little as the plastic is basically the lube
Excellent detailed video. Now you can do mine 😊
Deal!
Another great video! Well done and extremely informative!
Much appreciated!
You had me with “disconnect your battery because you don’t want to hear door ringing!
Absolutely
Great video !! well explained and video capture. Well done my friend. This doesn't pertain to my 95 GMC but I have some of the same issues.. Thank you for a very informed video keep up the great work
Glad it helped
Great video I have been waiting for someone to show this thank you
Glad I could help
Great video!! Made my project a breeze
Glad it helped!
Idk why I'm watching this, I don't even drive a bronco
Get one! They rock
Leanin'. Good stuff.
It's a ford issue...all ford's...older ones I mean
This applies to a bunch of different model trucks vans and cars. ❤
Same 😂 But I’m assuming it applies to my 95 E350 and he did a good job with the video 😎👌
Most fords used the same shifter link in the steering column all of the Panthers are the same I had one laying around because I assumed it would go bad eventually it's just a hair loose and then the one on the F-150 from 94 broke so I used the 2007 Mercury Grand Marquis part and its identical
Almost all the same.
Great trick.
Thanks
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Bought the parts and followed along with your video and it went very smooth. Thank you. You say you sell used boots? Where? Mine is torn. Thanks. Be safe!
Thanks. Yes we sell them!
Thanks man the video help me on my Ford Tsurus 1999
Excellent
Hey Chris have You thought about doing a video on the removal and installation of the seals for the tops, I acquired my bronco with a soft top and can't find a video or a diagram of the proper installation of the rubber seals, great video.
I’ll get one in the que. Sunday I’ll release “power window motor” replacement.
Outstanding video!
Thank you
Might be a good vid idea to cover replacing a steering box eventually, since most these seem to have play in em some worse than others
yes, we have a video on installing a Red Head box coming soon!
Great video, thanks for the hints!
Hope it helps !!
This same repair is on our list. Thanks for the step by step!
Will you have content for the shift indicator soon?
Thanks. Please subscribe and hit the notification bell.
Dorman sells these orange rubber bushing things, but it didn't really seem to do much for me. Are those in the original OEM, or just an aftermarket patch kind of thing? Also, in my F250, the spring action that controls the fore/aft movement of the lever seems to be weak, like you need to manually push it forward after changing gears sometimes. What controls that? Great video BTW.
There is a spring n the column for that mechanism. Or replace entire column. I sell them. Easy swap.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage How best to contact you about this?
If you were to change out your gauge cluster mainly the speedo cluster does it take some special calibration to match it to your truck or can it be popped out of another cluster and just installed? The previous owner of my 94 f250 printed the Speedo pod a horrible color. If you know the answer to this question I would appreciate the complete answer thank you great video.
Your need a speedo module from a 94-95. You simply pop them in and out on pins. The mileage stays with each speedo module
@@BroncosandPartsGarage THANK YOU for your reply I was told you had to go to ford and get some kind of calibration or authorization to match your ols guage. So in my case, I have a 94 F250 shouldn't any gauge out of a 92-97 cluster work?
Phenomenal tutorial video!
⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
Did you use any fluid films for the new bushings?
I did not. Possibly some powder graphite at most
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks so much for this!
Hope it helped!!
I definitely need to do this. Ordering bushing and pin. Can the play be so bad that you can't reach all gears? After Neutral, I only hit one more gear and there should be 3, D w circle, D, and 1.
Thanks for watching. The issue yiur habing is with the three gold colored torx screws at the bottom of the column. Tighten them and your issue should go away. (Down the column near the knuckle are by pedals)
@@BroncosandPartsGarage thanks for response. I looked under and couldn't find 3 gold colored screws. What would this fix be called so I can search it or do you have a video of it?
Great video!
Thanks you!!
Delrin would be a great material for that shim.
Agreed
Awesome video! What did you wind up using to lubricant the bushing-to-cover contact area? Thanks!
After researching, I decided on a little graphite powder. But not necessary.
Thank you!
Glad it helped!!!
Chris! Thank you!!!
Thanks. Please like and subscribe.
chriscan u do a video on upgrading the interior lights ,dome ,door, dash etc..
How To Remove Gauge Cluster & LED UPGRADE Ford Bronco OBS F150 F250 F350
Does that pin stick thru the bottom enough to chuck it in a drill and cut a slight groove in it enough to put an e-clip in it so you don’t have to reuse the capture clip for the pin?
I don’t think so
Chris, since you are in the area of the truck were mine needs attention My 4x4 elec switch and the rear window switch are pushed out do you have a fix
I think you found it. (Bezel repair)
To add, never hurts to look at the cable on the bracket by the transmission lever. Mine had somehow "got slack" and actually started "pushing" hard against my shift arm on trans, that it bent it inward towards the trans when in park.... anyway... I popped it off trans, carefully bent the trans arm closer to normal, and then pulled the adjustment clip on the cable, then reattached the shift cable to the trans, and then put the clip in. it moved a couple slots in (or whatever)
Very good info. Thank you
The two screws underneath can come loose on the very bottom of it but and they need tight indicationally if you don't use loctite
Tighten hem good
What do you do if that didn’t work? I see the bushing spinning still in the bracket piece? I have a hard time figuring out what gear I’m in still?
Tighten the three hold torx screws at BOTTOM of the column.
Would that be the same for 2003 f150 f series ? And thank you by the way .
I think the crossover ends at 2001
Thank you
You're welcome
You mentioned researching a lubricant to use on shifter bushings, but never said what you found, nor did you add anything while reinstalling. Was that on purpose?
Thanks for watching. I used silicone spray.
Could these bushing being worn out cause a no crank no start? I’ll have to put the truck in neutral and back in park or hold the shifter up to get it to crank?
No. But I bet 1 of the 4 zinc torx screws on bottom of your column are loose.
Nice video, but how to get the slop out of a manual trans shifter and does anyone make a short throw conversion ? 1988 F150.
Short throw? lol. You’ll bang your face on the dash.
get a 1/4 ratcheting wrench and use the bit for an implact
Ok
@@BroncosandPartsGarage bty this video helped me
Is it possible to replace the bushings without taking off the bezzle? Trying not to break the clips
Yes.
Hey i didnt need called out...... Damn algorithm 🤣 going to go fix it nowni guess
Lol
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The clamp thingy that holds the bushing in place would one from an an 1990-94 f150 fit on to my 1994 bronco
92+ will fit your bronco.
My holes for the lever are very egged out, what would you reccomend to fix this?
You could drill a new hole and source a pin. But that cast pot metal is pretty weak. Or try a slightly larger pin
@Broncos and Parts Garage ok thank you! I am trying to sand down a metal washer and use that to shim it which I think might work if it's a tight enough fit.
Can you do a video on uninstalling and reinstalling the whole dash?
getting the cameras into the tight places may be a bit rough. Its truly not that hard though..
@@BroncosandPartsGarage kind of need to see you do it for confidence haha you're videos are great by the way.
I just did my Ford E350 column and you do not have to take the top cover off of the display gauges. Just take the kick panel off then the 4, 13mm mounting bolts and you have plenty of room, even if you have to take whole steering gear. My center pin that slides broke.
Nice tip