Anycubic Kobra (Small) Calibration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- My calibration routine for the Anycubic Kobra (small).
Just a quick video with the steps for calibrating the Esteps and the flow percentage. Be sure to check your wheels and belts as i show in my setup video here :
• Anycubic Kobra Unboxin...
Anycubic Kobra:
shrsl.com/3ka6h
USB Driver for the kobra:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Pronterface program:
www.pronterface.com/
Point 8 cube used for flow:
drive.google.com/file/d/1r4CA...
Commands used in the video:
M503 -shows firmware configuration
M500 -saves changes
M92 -change Esteps
G91 -relative mode for estep test
G90 -return to nromal mode (starting a print or cycling power resets)
G1 E100 F60 -extrude 100mm slowly
StudioZombie3D Various links:
linktr.ee/Zombiej79
/ zombiej79_3d
/ will.zoobkoff
vm.tiktok.com/ZMLsvq3Rh
/ studiozombie3d
Studio Inquries:
studiozombie3d@gmail.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Get the Anycubic Kobra here:
www.shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=929949&m=90014&u=3048947
Extra $30 off Kobra with code KB30
Kobra Plus:
www.shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=929903&m=90014&u=3048947
Extra $30 off Kobra Plus with code KPL30
Kobra Max:
www.shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=928997&m=90014&u=3048947
Extra $40 off Kobra Max with code KBM40
I have watched this video probably 15 times now since I have owned this printer. Makes my prints better every time, thank you.
Good to hear glad it helps
Thank! Really looking forward your calibration guide for the Kobra Max. Hoping you could also do a video on optimizing the printing profiles for the Kobra Max. :)
I'll try and get that video up this week been pretty busy lately lol
Great Video, worked my Kobra print issues from a frustrating mess to something that approached a usable setup.
Many thinks, would be lost without your guidance.
Great video, I finally understand how to do my E-Steps, I think that is really the next thing to getting my Kobra Max setup, I have been messing with other settings but with my E-Steps out it does not make sense to mess with my flow until I know if I need more or less, time to buy some fancy Calipurs and get set!@
E-Steps, Flow Cube, Heat Tower, Retraction Tower - Setup new Zombie Profile :D
Nice good to hear man. It will for sure mess with your prints if your esteps are off
I just started with 3D printing a few days ago and since I started, I struggled to calibrate my printer properly. After following the steps in your video I got now three near perfect prints in a row (close to no visual mark ups on the surface and 0.02mm as biggest difference I could find on all of these three prints).
What type of printer did you get ?
you are true legend
Great video Will, 🤟
Appreciate it brother
How do you add that line on the left side before the printer starts to print the model?
very helpfull, i have the same issue of the 390 from stock, but im on it. But im very curious about the commands that your printer makes on the start, can you explain how do you modified the starting gcode?? thanks
G91 puts the printer in relative mode (which you need for the e-step calibration), not absolute mode (which you said in the video). After entering the new e-step value and saving it you need to revert to absolute mode by either power-cycling the printer or sending a G90 code (as I discovered).
Yeah I messed the absolute and relative lol its not always necessary to send the g90 starting a print generally resets it, power cycle also resets but not always so it is a good idea to send the g90 just to be safe. I'll be sure to mention in the next video
In 8:59: i want to know if the filaments are already having some milimeters inside the head? or you just put it in top of the hole? how do you considering the 45 degree cut (to make it easier push through the extruder?) is it part of 100mm or not?
Grazie!
Really helpful! But don't know why, I got 1.20mm on my wall with a 0.40 nozzle? Don't know what to do
Any help on setting the extrusion force?
I finally found the firmware you made on a facebook thing but after installing the v1 of it and attempting to print, it does the purge line fine but when it gets to the actual print the extruder just completely stops I just tried reflashing the firmware again and its just doing the same thing
Is there a way to do this without plugging the computer into the printer I have them in 2 different locations and I have the anycubic kobra neo will this process work the same with my printer
Thank you for your amazing helpfull video. I had to crank the shit out of the adjustment screw in order to make it sorta consistent with the 100mm runs. Had a stock deviation between 15 en 25mm... I also noticed that the filament was snagging sometimes, thus I thighted the knob even more, helping with the consistency, but I can't imagine that it has to be that thight.
My E started at 390 and after cranking the knob and 3 iterations I had to set to an E of 515. Then I tried again, which needed another small adjustment to 535! Currently printing test prints in order to see if it actually makes a difference. The weirdest thing I think is even though I had a base offset in my E steps from 390 (out the box), my initial test prints came out perfect. My test cubes were nice and the owl looked amazing.
Other question, I had to tighten the excentric nut for the extruder kinda hard in order to prevent wobble. But during fast moves I can actually hear the bearing making a grinding noise. Print quality seems good, but should I loosen it a bit more?
On mine the extruder tension knob is pretty tight. It seems to be able to go quite tight with no damage to the filament I think its part of how it's setup. The teeth on the gear aren't as aggressive as most.
For the noise I'd adjust the concentric to just loose enough to wobble then go back slowly till it grabs then stop some of them are touchy and with it being so tight could cause it to wear quicker. But as long as print quality is good I'd keep a eye for debris from it wearing if you don't see anything you should be good.
My calibration cube after setting the correct E (according to the math) ended up as the worst print I have made... Especially on the Z-axis I have a lot of over extrusion and after reverting I am now also getting some zits and random blobs...
Is it possible to set up linear advance in Kobra Max? I tried to do this according to your video tutorial on setting up Vyper, but the lines of the linear advance setup are printed incorrectly. They all turn out the same. I've never set up linear advance before, but it's very interesting to see what effect setting up linear advance will have. It would be great if you shoot a video tutorial on setting up linear advance for Kobra max. Thanks!
Needs to be enabled in firmware and there hasn't been any sources released for the kobra series yet. I've asked about getting sources but nothing yet
great video. i am wondering though, should the esteps be calibrated for the X, Y, and Z travels?
You can if your printer is off. Mine are all pretty good put of the box dimensional accuracy on my prints have been spot on for me. If yours is good I wouldn't worry
Hello. I installed the USB Driver, and tried to connect the printer on Pronterface, but it's stuck on just connecting. I've tried COM1 and COM3. Is there something I'm missing to get the Kobra to connect?
What printer profile do you use in Cura?
I noticed the purge line to the left before printing.
I was able to find that answer in a video here. Look up “Anycubic Kobra Cura profile.”
The video is a female and there’s a purplish background in her video.
There she will walk you through setting up a profile and adding that feature into the code which she copied off of an Ender 3 profile.
i cant install pronterface on mac os ventura. is there another program i can use?
Could not find the hollow cube you used to test the flow rate. Can you help?
Why are you showing the disassembly of the extruder in the first place? It has no relevance on setting the esteps?
It was more of a request by a few people to see how the extruder hotend setup was disassembled
I own a vyper and plan to get a second printer to print terrain. Which one would you suggest standard Korbra or Vyper?
The vyper is a amazing machine but the kobra is nice for the direct drive. If the vyper is printing everything you need and it's working great I'd get another vyper. The kobra is awesome but the extra built volume is a bonus
Do you have a profile for this model like you do the Vyper, Plus and Max?
I have profiles for all the kobras
Small kobra:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zldNfMmYs5d3tJz6zHoynge_7fyVa2Z7
Kobra plus:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MgNiFuqrDeMFF0I1HTuDkxsxFToAY18l
And kobra max:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eCSYJkmO_SylTYdUUC-c0vNnf-Cepvpf
Zombie, I have been using your profile ever since I received my Kobra! I have a question though, how do you measure the extruder tension? Any tips on making sure it's in a good spot?
It's tough to judge with the small kobra it can tighten down quite a bit before it seems to cause issues. What I do is when I do the extrude test I'll watch the mark if it stops at all its loose. If it dosent its good
@@studiozombie3d Extrude test as in the test ran for e-steps, correct? Just wanna make sure, thank you for taking the time to answer my question!
@@ScottyYDG yep extrude 100 make a couple marks and watch them they shouldn't stop moving during the 100mm
Does this work the anycubic Kobra neo model?
What's with all of the "Fake" fast forwarding?You do the "Fake" fast forwarding, then do the actual time of removing the screws?
Followed the steps, if I'm using the 0.4mm factory nozzle should the walls of the flow cube be 0.4?
That would be default line thickness for a 0.4mm, but if you changed the line width in your slicer, it should match the line width setting.
bonjour Quelle version de cura utilisez vous
Now when I go to print, the y axis drives all the way forward towards me and will not stop. The motor keeps trying to drive bed forward and I have to stop the print. Any advice? Now my printer is useless.
I restarted the printer now all is well. Thanks for the comment below suggesting this.
hi, shoud I do it on a new kobra neo I just bought?
Always a good idea to check ND tube the esteps and flow
If you run the code "G1 E100 F60" again after the "E number" is updated. Should it then use 100mm of filament. I keep running the test and it goes to the same spot every time....I am short about 30mm
When you do the extruder test watch the mark male sure it's not stopping at any time if it does ots slipping try tightening the red dial on the extruder a bit
@@studiozombie3d not slipping. My E is at 605...way off.
so I just checked this and I have a 13mm gap
but so far my prints have been very good
my estep from factory is 390
doing your math:
(100/87)x390=448
should I change this or keep it?
I mean I find it weird that im having good results for such a big gap in the 100mm test
You can change the esteps to 448 then do the flow test and see how it looks. When you do the extrusion test be sure to watch the mark to make sure it disent stop moving at all during the extrusion
just tried its saved as 448.27 and now the gap is 9.5mm ?
@@mrjoelpt and your extruding it slow with g1 e100 f60? You can try setting it at 390 stock then adjust flow accordingly as well. There's the odd kobra that dosent seem to want to line up. You can try tightening the extruder knob a bit as well. I found you can tighten it down a fair amount and it dosent dig in very much
@@studiozombie3d yea I can confirm I used f60, the filament mark did not stop moving, I saved it back to 390 stock and alrready printed some stuff and its fine.
btw my flow is 100% and the flow cube is perfect 0.4mm on all sides with wall line set to 1
I can retry again next weekend and film it
When I try to run the print for the test file you have, it just sits there and doesn't do anything. Any ideas?
Which test file? The cube?
My Kobra keeps coming up short every time I try the calibration. M503 gave me E390.00. So I followed your instructions and the extrusion was short 19.7mm. According to the calculation, I got a new e-steps value of 485.68. So I did M92 E485.68. After testing again, came up short 17.6mm. Repeated the instructions, came up short 15.2mm. And so on. Any idea what could be going on here?
Do you notice the mark moving at times during the extrusion? It could be slipping slightly they are pretty touchy the tension
@@studiozombie3d It seems to move smoothly, it just doesn't move the full 100mm. It's hard to tell if the filament is slipping on the gear just by looking at it, but I don't think there's slippage.
@@jeff.fredrickson keep your eye on the mark as it's extruding if it stops at anytime during the 100mm then it's slipping a bit try tightening the knob a bit I found on mine I can tighten it quite a bit before it's too much
@@studiozombie3d Ah, thanks for the suggestion to focus on the mark. I saw that it was in fact slipping. But the slipping didn't stop until I tightened the knob all the way to the point where it wasn't possible to turn it anymore. That seems pretty extreme. I thought maybe the filament tolerance was bad and it was too thin, but my calipers say the filament is in fact 1.75mm. I wonder if I just have a bad part somewhere in the extruder, maybe the spring.
I see this type of comment a lot and the only thing that makes any sense is that its slipping. often people think its not (they dont see any visible slipping) Remember tho that there is some tolerance to the filament diameter, so if it comes to a thinner section it may not grab it as well there.
I love Queen Sugar
Do you have any news about the Max model? Thanks
Will have new videos up soon I have new firmware I compiled for the kobra series enabling linear advance will do a updated video for the series asap
@@studiozombie3d Thank you!
So no matter what I change the value to, I still only extrude 58mm of filament, any ideas?
Does the mark stop moving at all during the test?
Right now I’m recalibrating and I only get within 12 mm. I can see the gears turning faster but the same amount of filament seems to come out, any ideas?
The only real way the mark moves is by manipulating the red knob on the drive head
@@saltwaterforlife5601 on my kobra I can tighten the knob quite a bit before it is too much pressure on the filament it took a couple tries to get it tight enough on kine
Yeah there’s a lot of play in mine too but even with the sweet spot on the knob it still only gets me to 12mm. So bit of a update, I decreased my extrusion to 70 and I’ve been getting much cleaner prints, until last night, when it all went off the rails. My next steps are to replace the nozzle and recalibrate my esteps and go from there.
Do you know where to get replacement belts?
Amazon usualy has a decent assortment of belts. You can also get a roll pf belt and belt buckles and cut them yourself it's usualy a bit cheaper. Just make sure legnth is the same
kobra Can open the linear advand?
It can if you flash my zombie firmware drive.google.com/file/d/1syfxKHAJ4x4V1IW2-U6zfcKuSg0jLgKK/view?usp=drivesdk
it gives an dokumentation about theese firmware ?
@@studiozombie3d
The amount of filament it extrudes is never consistent. This makes calculating the esteps impossible. I can actually put esteps at whatever I want and it won't extrude 100mm. This process works perfectly on my other printers.
Iv had under excursion as long as I can remember
Pretty good tutorial.. but honestly, there were parts where i could not understand the words he was saying, and he flew by a lot, mainly during the pronterface stuff.. I also didnt really understand dissasembling the whole thing in the beginning to put it right back together. Lots of parts I had to rewatch over and over without explanation. Example, doing the math, he explains to divide by the measurement, but doesnt explain you need to subtract the offset from 100, then divide by THAT number.. or when measuring the 100 mm of the filament, he does not show if he is measuring from the ptf tube that feeds the filament or the actual base of the extruder.. this makes a big difference in measurement. nothing major, just found this a little frustrating to follow.
I am under by 20 mm 😮
What was the software you used to calibrate the esteps?
I used pronterface there's a link in the description www.pronterface.com/
You can also use octoprint if you have a pi or other sbc