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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2024
- This video covers the concept of using silicon spacers, an overview of how I did it with my first printer, and some other tid bits about the Kobra 2 Max. All the links and a full step-by-step guide checkout can be found here : • Bed leveled/flattened,...
Anycubic should be paying you for this video, good lord youre a Godsend!!!! Please dont ever stop making videos, you are singlehandedly saving my sanity
sorta hoping one day ill earn a free printer 😂 thanks for the positive feedback!
The most informative video I have found yet on solving my bed leveling issues. If only Anycubic themselves had some tutorials as useful as this.
Thank you so much for this, you've no idea how much I appreciate it! Was having all kinds of issues with my kobra 2 max and your guidance helped me a lot.
Installed the spacer mod you outlined, and used a straightedge to "eyeball" level it. I will go back and use a dial indicator later this week, but already the change has netted good results. Thank you
that's incredibly clever! my kobra max 2 arrives next week, definitely saving your tips. Thanks
Thanks, good luck with it! Definitely appreciate the smart person(s) who thought of the ideas
Thank you :) Incredibly helpful.
oh man this video was so helpful especially the file for the clip! i found a max of 2mm variation! ordered a new print bed hoping its not warped and if it is i know how to fix it thanks to this video.
indicator mount is genius!!
Great video!
A new owner supplemental parts list for the spacers, printed parts, depth gage and clip on print, would make a great PDF or even an nice bundle pack. I'd probably spend $20 on a kit that had all the parts you used/listed in order to get the bed leveled out of the box. Super helpful video!
I put all the parts in the step by step videos description found here th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tIOrVCzACzoEbjTB
you can print the supplemental spacers or just find a spacer(s) that measure 3mm in thickness to add to the Silicon for the middle bed spacers
Товарищ! Спасибо тебе огромнейшее!!! ❤
just a word of caution, do not move the bed or head while the machine is switch on.without disabling the steppers 1st. it creates its own electricty and you can blow your board or display pannel.
you are genius bro
I also got this issue of shifted layers. According to my observations, these issues happen at quite big distance from build plate (around 20-30 cm), which means the weight of plastic is already sufficient. I reduced all accelerations to 5000 mm/s2, and till now I never got this issue again. Seems that in my case the motor skips the steps when the load of plastic is around 300 g or more, and inertia of build plate + printed model is too high for motor...
If they allowed you to disable the mesh leveling you would honestly have a way better time. That is my issue right now, my bed is dead flat using your methods and the mesh digs into the bed in certain spots.
👍
Thanks for sharing stuff on K2Max. You probably have part wobble and not y-axis shift. I see it when I print tall vases
thx! that makes a lot of sense
Did you make the dial caliber attachment?
check your belt tensions on the bed, make sure they're equal, i was playing with them and found this to be an issue i had
Hello, thank you very much for this video and your work on it. I use the same printer, what I saw on yours is the drag chain for the rear cable. Since there are matching end pieces on your drag chain, I wanted to ask if you would make the .stl file available to me. Many greetings from Germany.
Seriously, you are a godsend! I have been struggling with this printer to be consistent. You mentioned a FB group, what is the name of the group?
facebook.com/groups/804152788055850 - Its the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max official Facebook group. Just uploaded a full step-by-step tutorial showing how I set up my second printer.
@@mark4jr Thank you very much!
Can you provide the STL for the dial indicator?
could you share your slicer settings for that printer? I'm having lots of issues with setting it up for about 2 months rn especially with big prints
another hour or two before the HD version is available but here you go : th-cam.com/video/a-gk6cxONBs/w-d-xo.html
I noticed the cable for bed heat out the back you had a blue 3d printed cable stabilizer. Where did you get it? I would love to print 1 for myself.
Found it on Printables, enjoy! www.printables.com/model/688059-anycubic-kobra-2-max-cable-drag-chain
Awesome, thank you so much!
Just a question in the slicer is thete gcode to use the bed level mesh?
If not can get it to level for each print with g29 after g28 code.
The start/stop Gcode gives the printer instructions regarding prior to printing and when the print is complete. The firmware of the printer should load the bed level mesh regardless of the gcode, in my testing I do not believe the bed level mesh does anything with or without gcode instruction. The only way ive been able to get consistently good prints is with a manually flattened/leveled bed.
@@mark4jr Weird. What slicer are you using?
Just got mine today and set up. Using anycubic slicer and everything seems to be working great although the auto offset applied by the printer was a tad on the aggressive side at -1.19 so I backed off that a tiny amount. It seems to be working flawlessly. Even in " sport" mode I'm getting great prints.
Set up my first full helmet to print though so bit nervous about later shifts on that so set it to standard but it's still crazy faster compared to my ender 3 😂
For the layer shifting...fought that for a LONG time. In my case the vref was WAY too high and motor getting too hot. Adjusted that and things got better but still happened occasionally. Player with acceleration and dropped it from 2000 to 900 and set jerk to 10. Have run over 2kg through it and haven't had so much as a single shift on my kobra 2 since. Considering how much more mass your max needs to move on the Y compared to my kobra 2 I have to wonder if too high acceleration might be causing you some shifting.
Can definitely confirm lowering acceleration does help. the thing is though I have two of these printers and one has never experienced layer shifts the other is prone.
@@mark4jr how hot does the motor get when you're printing? if it's too hot to hold that's prob the issue
its very hard to do this large bed perfect so many variable like like filament quality dry or not or slicing settings ,room temperature,heated bed temperature nozzle type ,bed leveling.... maybe easy to first lever height set to a bit more and width overlap 15-25% or the motors,frame equal ,not slip the belt
Which bed leveling stl did you use?
www.printables.com/model/671915-anycubic-kobra-2-max-bed-level-first-layer-calibra
That's very hepful video. I bought kobra2max a month ago but I have Z offset issue. Every after autoleveling, I have to calibrate Z offset during printing. (I could find z offset adjustment). Nozzel calibration sensor is at same height with plate but I couldnot find the problem. That's why I couldt printed anything yet. If you now how to tune Z offset not during printing, please share. Also I'm going try silicon spacer and try to calibrate with dial indicator.
I had the exact same symptom, always had to re-calibrate. I think it was to compensate for where on the print bed I was printing various parts at. I have a feeling this is going to solve your problem, I just uploaded a step-by-step guide I filmed while setting up my second Kobra 2.
Hello..Great job!! I have a question, could you please share the stl file of the sensor holder?
all of the links are in the description of this video, th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GV28uV7HOIZshL_y , this ones more of a step by step tutorial as I set up a new K2M
Hey, do you have the file for the dial gauge?
there is a link in the video description that goes to more of a how-to, all the links are in the how-to videos description
Thanks for this Mark! super helpful! As always, it's easy for lazy people to comment and give advice, acting like an expert, on a post that someone else spent time creating to help people. So, I hope that kind of thing will not dissuade you from creating more videos to help people. I did review all the comments and looked around first before asking but did not see anything like a link to Amazon for the spacers. Might have Just missed it. Would you be kind enough to provide one when you have the time? P.S. I hope you get a free printer also! =)
Oh im no stranger to internet comments sections, :)
I put all the links in the description of this video which is more of a how-to as I apply this method to a new printer. These are the spacers I used :
www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mobilea0a74f7-20&linkId=94699d13d39f71f22b0712ff2eeeb722&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
and this is the newer video
th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.html
@@mark4jr Thanks!
were do i get the file to print that dial indicator bracket
its in the description of this video which is more of a step-by-step how-to th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.html
Any chance you could link the dial indicator mount file? It looks just like my Harbor Freight dial, and it would save me a ton of time.
the links are in the description of this video which is more of a how-to th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.html
@@mark4jr Thanks very much!
High Mark thank you for the video.
I'm guessing you haven't been printing for very long.
You wasted a whole bunch of your time calibrating the bed when it was cold.
Secondly it never hurts to calibrate with the build plate off. But more importantly to calibrate with the build plate on.
It's critical for beds this size to be preheated for over 30 minutes before doing any calibration as the build plate needs to heat soak.
This is why you are having print issues even though your bed you say is level. I've seen deflection at almost 0.2 or more. Which is a full layer height or more.
Imo what you did wasn't wrong. You just missed the steps of heat soaking to get more accurate bed level.
Sadly it seems these printers both the elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Cobra 2 max have troubles maintaining their bed mesh.
That means we'll have to manually see adjust for large prints every single time
You have a good point about preheating the bed before leveling. I would recommend doing that and have done that on one of my machines. When I get some time, ill update the video and add that. Cheers!
I have problem with bed level in kobra 2 pro but i have no idea how to calibrate it manually because it have only 4 screws without option to install distances
I would think you could probably still apply the silicon spacer mod, if the existing metal spacers are all the same size then you should be good to go. There is another video in the description of this one that is more of a how-to
I'm in the same exact situation as you I have two of these printers and I'm having the same low spots high spots it's so frustrating HELP!
Is there a file for that attachment that you printed out?
I put all the links in this more of a how-to video : th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.html I have both printers dialed in pretty good at this point, letting them completely cool down before each test print was pretty key I think so the first layer went down with a relatively consistent level of heat saturation, also I think making sure everyhing it tight but not crazy tight is pretty important. For that I home the machine so the stepper motors are engaged and give all the moving parts a good wiggle
@@mark4jr awe man you're awesome! Thank you so much for this video. I was about ready to return the printer and ask them to send me a new one but I would prefer to just get my prints a bit better with this technique. I just ordered the spacers they should be coming tomorrow and I will get the dial indicator from harbor freight.
Can't wait to do this.
Thank you again I really do appreciate it
I just picked up the dial indicator from harbor freight and I received the silicone spacers can't wait to try to adjust this
Can you share the dial indicator step file so we don’t have to design from scratch? Tia
Hey there, all the links are in this videos' description th-cam.com/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/w-d-xo.html
How you leveling z bulk?
what do you mean?
hi, can you send me the file for the dial gauge? :-)
the link in the description of this video goes to more of a how-to guide with all of the links
You fokin demigod ❤️🥵
There is no way the software can compensate, where the sensor it reading and where the nozzle is located are two different heights, they should stuck with the leveling that they used with the kobra max. they should not be shipping this out with a warped heat bed, its a defective product and anycubic needs to fix it.
I had exactly the same problem, but I just sent an email to #anycubic, send the pictures with the gaps under the ruler, they send me a hotbed!!! Here is the reply(Hi there
We send you a free new {Heat Bed} to solve the problem.
Please fill in your information in the link below so we can send your package to you.
Note: The phone number is required, and the address information needs to be specific to the house number. After filling in the address, please reply to me for confirmation.) just filled the information and they send me a brand new one. So if you are having to many problems.... Maybe.... It's not your problem!!!! Meanwhile while you are having issues of bad leveling, slow down the first layer and just go up and down the Z-offset as much as you need to try the best layer as possible. You do lose a lot of time, but after I started to to manual leveling I stoped having warped and pealing layers, and I was printing with a 60º temperature, was able to go down to 50º(saves up a lot of electricity)haven't been printing nor rafts or brims, straight to the bed... For the shift layers I only have problems when I forget at Anycubic slicer to zhop on every retration. Hope it helps
Hoooo... And they super quick to reply, and when o was doing test and did not reply back, I would get an email from them asking if the problem was solved and if I could give them a feedback!!! Awesome tech support!!!!!!