As a former English Teacher, I must say that your diction and your sentence structure and your pronunciation is very good. You sound older than your age and you are like a radio personality or a knowledgeable weather person. I bought the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX today.
Absolutely! Here's your comment: *Wow, what an excellent and well-thought-out review! I really appreciate you taking the time to thoroughly cover the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX. I'm seriously considering getting this printer or perhaps the Neptune 4 MAX. I guess I'll wait and see which one I can snag for a better deal. Thanks again for the great content!*
This is the review I have been searching for! Very helpful. I really enjoy the b-roll shots that show what you’re talking about when going I’ve the features. I ordered this printer thismorning (before your review was uploaded), and I’m happy to know I made a good decision on a printer to replace my older troublesome creality cr-10 max.
Thanks for your great reviews as always... This one saved me from not making a mistake, being forced to used the "cloud" for network printing is a No Sale.....Thanks!
This is the most in depth review I have ever seen on any 3D printer yet! Thank you for this, I will definitely be taking a look at your other videos as this will help make my decision on my first 3D printer. Wonderful!
Hi Aurora, great video as usual. I just wanted to give a hint: i believe that the reason why there is not any calibration in klipper for resonance at tall heights is because what you are experiencing at the top of tall prints is not printer resonance but vibration of the printed part itself, so it will depend also on what you are printing, and cannot be calibrated in advance. You usually test the tall vase which is very light and tends to "move" more. If you can i d make a test with a more "solid" print to see if the effect is less noticeable. Hope this helps Cheers
Sounds like a solvable problem for Klipper, but absolutely way more complicated than the basic input shaping case. A basic approach might be for Klipper to pause large prints after each 100mm in Z height or so, and doing temporary input shaping recalibrations.
I love your voice as well! You are a good presenter. The review is on point with excellent technical evaluation, detailed and clear descriptions, and helpfull comparisons. Subbed!
Expecting this printer in a couple of days. I didn't have the others to test against, but the reviews convinced me. Also, swore I wouldn't buy another printer with leveling wheels.
i habe 5 3d primters , all bought secondhand, never have i encountered the issues i encountered with this brand new sidewinder x4 pro ......ridiculous.....fresh out the box, 6 prints in encountered issues lol. the auto bed leveling is simply trash.
Amazing review Aurora! I was looking at either the Neptune or Kobra for the large print format. Now that I have seen both reviews from you I know which one I'll be ordering.
Thanks a lot for the best, complete and the full review for the Kobra 2 Max. From a user of this model I thank all this information that nor fabricant do of his own product. 😊
Great video as always. I'm considering the Anycubic Kobra 2 MAX for a print farm (I already bought one), BUT, the wi-fi printing only being available over the cloud will likely (and unfortunately) send me back to their competitors. Also, they might get a return. We will see. @ANYCUBIC3D
I have the Kobra max. I modded the cooling duct and converted it to a direct drive. I have zero problems as I'm using this for mass production vs volume. I was really hoping they'd go with a true direct drive however I may get this anyway. Thank you.
surprised these "new" models dont come with direct drive..i was surprised to find the same abt the shit x4pro i bought that is going back to them tomorrow; refundddd!!!
@CommentThink I just posted a video on my other channel unboxing and putting together this printer, the Kobra 2 max. Definitely has a direct drive and uses the bowden as a guide from the spool and runout sensor to the extruder. I did my first print last night and this is a great printer.
I hear and read people crying and complaining about the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX Like "It's impossible to print anything or do anything with it" Or "It's just trash because i couldn't get anything to print" I just find that filament boogies fling everywhere when im printing, dont know if it's a retraction issue or what but my prints always come out ok.
Welcome to the club. During the time you would have been waiting, you were actually printing and having fun, hopefully. The worst plan is to buy a printer (because it's on sale for example), and then not use it for like a year, because by that time there will be better printers out for less money. And the last year of so of new printers has proved that in spades. I don't know that we'll see innovation as rapid in the coming year, though. We may have reached another plateau for awhile. Bambu Lab really set the new standard.
Great review as usual. Just subbed. I'll put off buying the Kobra 2 MAX until something comes along that will also let me print at least ASA and provides hardened steel nozzles as an option. This will probably be Bambu, albeit at a much higher price. 3DJake has this machine on offer for only € 363 at the moment.
I got the Kobra 2 Pro a few days ago thanks to your recommendation list. It's working very well, I'm glad I listened to you, thank you all for your hard work :)
thank you, you prevented me from wasting my money! since it is not even possible to drive it via USB from Octoprint, i can not run it, since internet is not always reliable here.
Great video. Using the Kobra 2 Max for a month, the auto leveling works pretty bad on the edge of the print bed, especially on the left, which is the same as your result. They get too close on the left and too far on the bottom right. Any suggestion to improve the bed leveling? With no adjust knob, this is just something I cannot fix. Also, the nozzle seems wear out fast for the one comes with the printer, strongly recommend to change to hardensteel nozzle.
Check your gantry distance from the bottom to the bed (I used the Rook for Kobra 2 max on printables) can use anything that allows you to check the distance tho; mine was off about 2mm from right to left, the rook gave me a stable surface to be able to level from
@@AuroraTech right, but this TH-cam video is not linked to the printer when the printer comes up. The TH-cam logo button you guys use to signify you’ve made a review video about it is missing.
I hope AnyKubic opens up their hardware…it would transform these Kobra series printers. Assuming they don’t use a noisy motor like mine has. I also think their leveling may be a little flawed. I’ve had to live adjust my Z on occasion.
Hi Aurora and Helios, I have one (or more) question(s) for you. Considering you have reviewed and accumulated so many printers, I am wondering if you have been able to test them over a longer period of time to determine which ones continue to work well versus ones that degrade or even cease functioning? In my own experience, most printers that have poor quality components tend to fail within a 30-day period of just occasional use. I am not suggesting that you run up your electric bill with unnecessary printing but even running a stress test of a very long print lasting several days might provide some insight on component wear, misalignment propensity, or build quality degradation. And if this happens, I wonder how good their support of their products would be via phone, text chat or email. So, if you ever wanted to add value to your exceptionally great content, this might provide you with a way to revisit printers you have reviewed to see if they are still worth the cost of ownership after extended use. Thanks!
I was going to buy a kobra max 2, but i have a kobra max that I can't find parts for, so I fear the same will hold true for the kobra max 2. PS. I really like your channel, I haven't watched it more than a hand full of times, but i do like your reviews, and I Think you have the best channel out there.
Great video Aurora. I’ve been using this printer daily for almost a month now and it is okay, but is much to closed off for its current abilities. This printer is quite decent when printing in PLA but it’s annoying that everything is geared toward printing in PLA on it; all calibrations and are hard coded so can’t optimize the calibration for PETG which needs to be printed at higher temps; also more calibration points for a print bed this large would be much better; would be nice if their firmware allowed the ability to specify the inputs on their calibrations; some feedback for anycubic if you have a contact with them
A friend of mine recommended this printer to me a short time ago. I looked for it today, and AnyCubic is having their 9th Anniversary sale which saved me enough to purchase a couple accessories and a bunch of filament. Your video is linked to the Kobra 2 Max, so I watched your video and then I made the purchase. I've also subscribed to your TH-cam Channel and clicked ALL. You're very knowledgeable about 3D Printers. If you don't mind me asking, how many years have you been 3D Printing, and which 3D CAD do you prefer? Thank you very much.
Hi Aurora, I have a question about the Kobra 2 Max and I have not been able to find an answer. I bought this 3DP and I've had it for just over a month. It's big and I didn't have any place to set it up. I cleared an area in my basement, and I installed better lighting and a new electric outlet to power it. Then I bought a shelf unit and I built it as a bench for the Kobra 2 Max. My Question is, how far does the table overhang the base of the printer when the Y Axis is fully extended to the back and front of the Printer Base??? I don't want to set the bench to close to the wall. I also want to have a back 6 inches tall so nothing falls off of the bench and get lost. So, the area the Printer is placed on the Bench must be extended to give room for the full travel of the table. Thank you very much for an answer to my question.
Great review! One minor nit, I think: the little cleaning block is made of silicone, not silicon, I presume. Pure silicon is a hard mineral. Silicone is family of oils and rubbery polymers.
Outstanding video as always! Just wondering, are you planning on reviewing the Ender 3 V3 KE? If so, would you recommend that over the Bambu Lab A1 Mini? Thanks as always!
Carefull with the auto Z-Offset. Mine was set 2mm to low, scratching the bed before I caught it, du to plastic being on the nozzel. The offset sensing works over conductiveness and the wiping doesn't work propperly, so filament residue can mak the leveling fail without any indication, ramming the nozzel into the bed.
I wish i had the luck with this printer after several days of messing with it. I only had 2 successful prints. I have a ticket open know let's see how they respond. I had high hopes. I really want a large format 3D printer. The bed seems to be unleveled and the filament isn't sticking to the need. I followed the instructions they have, I also washed the plate, used glue stick and ran a temp tower to ensure filament settings are correct. The same filament is running on my 3 other Bambu Lab printers with out issue. What else can I do? I want this printer to work but it will be returned if I can't get the bed leveled in the next couple days. Anycubic advertise auto bed leveling, but that is not true.
OOOooofph now I am much happier I bought an elegoo neptune max those cons are all deal killers!!! plus it's a $120 cheaper with the $30 off discount code.. well that stopped my drooling over a K-2Max for one of my next printer's think I will just focus on getting a few Bambu's next, really to bad this printer would have been awesome to add in my collection...
Have you had a chance to do a firmware upgrade? and if so have you noticed any improvements to the bed leveling? Also is the PEI sheet reversable and usable on its spring steel side if there is one? I usually use glass for my prints for a smoother finish. Again thank you for this review.
If those were the only 2 options, I will get the Kobra 2 Max. The FLSUN V400 is a good machine, but it's too tall for that print volume (300x300x410). Its actual print volume is 150x150x3.14x410 = 28,966,500mm³, which is 24% smaller than a 300x300x400=36,000,000mm³ CR-10 style bed slinger as the V400 is a cylinder. I would rather keep a large machine like this Kobra 2 Max 420x420x500=88,200,000mm³ with a 3.04 times larger print volume with a lower price.
Hello, I just bought this printer and I m glad I found this amazing video! I was looking for nozzles in amazon and apart from what you showed, I found others that didnt have the ''butt'' in the end(volcano style). However, some people said that it worked for their kobra 2 printers. You think there is no chance a volcano nozzle fits this printer without any hotend modifications? thanks
I have three of them now. The problem I have is with large prints taking up to 10 KG of filament. The lower layers can print fast but above 1KG +- .5 kg you need to slow it down, because it will JUMP and print off sometimes up to 6 mm, but mostly about 1.5 mm. It could be the Y motor need to be aligned to the exact magnetic position of that motor. If you are halfway in between the motor 1.8 deg motion, you are in limbo and it will slip to align with it. I have not figured out how to set that. I have now 4 completely worthless prints. I will keep on trying different settings. But maybe it is the dimension of the part does not lend itself to a precise 1.8 deg motor setting. But this Kobra 2 Max is amazing on under 1 KG. I keep trying to print at 230 MM/ sec and huge prints, do not work. So, have to slow it down after the first 1KG roll.
Makes sense. The more weight on the bed will be harder to move accurately at higher speed as there is more mass to accelerate and decelerate with precision.
From 500mm/s you changed to 250mm/s print speed for PLA, so its not really a fast printer, even when you change it to 50mm/s, its still shows stringing, ghosting and ringing @17:05, the new firmware updates reduced the recommended speed to 150mm/s. Direct connect to WIFI is still not working. The nozzle and block is unique design and you cant find it on the market, if you order from them with a bigger nozzle size! they say only print with 0.4 size and they say we don't recommend to change to bigger nozzle size and it is not open source printer.
bytlan here, have you ever done the endurance testing of these 3d FDM printers. I have a list of machines I have bought over the years and they all have failed. (um, the motors all still working fine individually, but left in the board, they just crap out) Some I've replaced the mobo's (up to 3) times and never got a print or would flash correctly. others I've run and got only small prints to work when they were to 300mm mark sizes. Davinci enclosed ($500) was my first machine - ABS great... Anet was next, the build was crap till I did the rebuild on those plastic frames (8bit) and got like 1-1/2+ years before a mobo went and replaced. And the list of machines bought just all failed after only a couple of months to a 2 year run on 1 and they don't make anymore. I have 2 machines currently still running prints OK. None of them are Klipper. Not that I haven't tried to convert just not figured out the install to work. I am rather convinced they are all designed to fail - chips preprogramed to do that (designed obsolescence is a known engineering process). I am at either hot mail or yahoo if your interested in my results. I've written the many companies and the results are equally so disappointing. Also a few China TH-camrs who were posting on much of the same products of your site and channel shows she did and would do more with open source is no longer posting. I've found out the GOV have blocked them from future posting. Also many companies get emails blocked as they claim nothing received, yet nothing of failed email delivery replies or returned to me information. The knowing of good machine performance is good information as you post quite well but the endurance and even service reply is still quite a lot of left to be desired. You as a promoter may not get these results. warranty often does not exist for anything purchased from China, it does not exist. Thank you! Please keep posting as I do enjoy them - even your flubs are good to see you as a real person. Not much known of your brother though... just keep it up and your posted www site. Thankx...
Your website is awesome and this review is so freaking thorough. So useful! Assuming one was in the market for a large 3D printer along these lines, do you think it is worth waiting to see if something else hits the market that can beat this machine? What are your predictions?
Hi Aurora, wow you know your stuff. I am trying to find a multi color 3d printer to make a multi color product that is 18 inches by 4 inches by 1 inch. What would you recommend?
Did ya oil the linear rods and u wheels? They can wear. Does it print via internet without using their slicer interface/ app? Not my tea there really. Might be cool ig if free. Overall, hardware looks great otherwise. The 'llama' print had some odd z lines, compared to the others but time was zippy fast.
Anycubic was my goto printer manufacturer but I just got a new kobra plus with screen rebooting issue. Can you suggest a user forum that can help me troubleshoot the problem? I found your channel today and subscribed. I look forward to your future videos.
Hi, Would you buy this or the Neptune 4 max We want to print model patterns for foundry casting, So needs to be accurate with a smooth surface finish. Thanks
Great video! I like that you print so much tests and it claimed outstandingly!!! I am maybe considering buying a Anycubic Kobra 2 Max, but this closed wifi is a compromise… I also think it is difficult to calibrate Input shaping at higher print heights, but maybe via algorithms they can compensate it better. One Tipp I would give, before autoleveing, let the heatbed heat up for somelike 15min so it can deform how it would while printing, as if you do so the levelling is much more accurate. I have heard other creators talking about this. How long btw. does it take to heat up the bed and nozzle? Sorry for my language
Heating up the nozzle is fast; it takes around 1.5 minutes to go from room temperature to 220°C. However, all DC powered large beds heat up slow. It takes 7-8 minutes to go from room temperature to 60°C and 18-20 minutes to reach the maximum temperature of 90°C.
Input shaper will probably not be possible with a tall print on a bed slinger. It is the part you are printing that is vibrating and deflecting, not the printer. So your input shaper would need to be calibrated to each print geometry somehow. Also, the input shaper setting would vary as you print as the part geometry is changed with each new layer.
More rigid tall parts may have much better print quality. The flexing part causing poor print quality at the top may only be a problem when printing what are essentially flimsy vase mode 500 mm tall trash cans.
@@Liberty4Ever I get the feeling that flimsy vase-mode trash cans (FVMTC) are all that big printers are good for, unless you are ok with taking two weeks to print something big and more solid, because time-to-print scales roughly with the cube of the dimensions.
@@yeroca - I'm interested in a large format FDM 3D printer for the large build plate so many parts can be printed in a single job, or the occasional large relatively flat functional part can be printed, but with a large nozzle, high flow hot end and a large spool of filament, I can see where a large printer like this could be good for prop departments, architectural models, cosplay, etc.
Reduce the Y acceleration and jerk, possibly as a function of layer (Z), and you have solved your problems, with only a negligible loss (increase) of print time; especially with large parts with long straight runs. On bed slingers (and coreXY too), even with Marlin, I always set the Y acceleration/jerk to a lower value than X. I care much more about print quality rather than, once in a lifetime, print time of a part.
Thank you for saving my money. If they want me to use their cloud nonsense then that tells me this printer will be an expensive doorstop after a decade. I'll be checking your other reviews.
@@Max_JanszenAt the prices these large printers go for, I wouldn't risk it. I'd rather just use something like the Neptune 4 Max which support open source firmwares.
@@SynthaPak I haven't done the swap to the bimetal heatbreak yet, but the dimensions are the exact same. You will need a bit of ptfe tube between the heatbrake end and the extruder gears. The new heatbrake just has a cylindrical recess at the hot side, in which the ac nozzels set into but I don't see the reason for this.
I’m having issues with layer shifts and they range from minor to extreme I’ve tried everything from loosening to tightening belts to tightening the screws and the pulleys everything
Awesome review, I seen this printer being used from another YTber and I am interested. The price point isn't bad. I like the size that it allows, going to use this for printing RC 1:10 scale parts and bodies. I was wondering about spare parts and the filament tube about it's longevity. Als meant to ask, how many times did you have to clean or prep the bed
I'm confused by your rating system. I'm looking for the best large 3d printer but this is the only large sized 3D printer on your website or did I miss something? I would like to point out I am blind and my reader was having trouble with your website.
I got it and I do have overextrusion on first layer, underextrusion on last layer and problems with temps of bed. also rosa pla (about 20$/kg) prints terrible no matter what temps or speed I use, but colorfil pla (about 12$/kg) looks good. this is my first 3d printer and idk what to do. Could you give me some advices what i can do to make my prints better?
Amazing size, seems like a good printer for the price, but I noticed it's loud. It's annoying that lots of 3d printer manufacturers don't focus on the fan noise
Hello! How do you do the “calibration” you were referring too? Were you talking about esteps and flow rate? Because i cant for the life of me figure out how to calibrate those. Seems i cant even connect the printer to my computer? Any info would be so helpful
Darn...lost me with the lower extruder temperature and proprietary firmware... I was leaning toward this over the Neptune 4 Max but I really need a higher temp hot end and it doesn't sound easy to upgrade...
How did yours print so well? There are 1000s of negative reviews on the Anycubic Kobra Max 2 Facebook group. So many issues with layer height, layer shift, noises... Can you please create a detailed print guide / share your printer profiles?
You have to tighten all your stuff after heating up, tram the gantry, and do check for loose screws on the pulley. Proper tensioning and tightening of the y axis plates and toolhead is also required. This isn’t an easy printer, a lot of the people in the FB group are really inexperienced.
You can download the PrusaSlicer print profile I used and all the G-code files I printed in this video here: auroratechchannel.com/download/Kobra2Max.zip
@@AuroraTech wow!! Would you mind if I linked the Facebook Kobra 2 Max group to your download? Everyone is struggling with this printer. It is so difficult and inconsistent. And you seem to have no trouble at all! Maybe because yall are some 3d printing Jedis...
@@AuroraTechalso... your prusa profiles have some arcwelder.exe dependency that is causing errors. any chance you can reupload without the arc welder stuff?
Aurora Tech voice is ASMR. Your elocution is perfect. Best 3D channel ever!!!
As a former English Teacher, I must say that your diction and your sentence structure and your pronunciation is very good. You sound older than your age and you are like a radio personality or a knowledgeable weather person. I bought the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX today.
Absolutely! Here's your comment:
*Wow, what an excellent and well-thought-out review! I really appreciate you taking the time to thoroughly cover the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX. I'm seriously considering getting this printer or perhaps the Neptune 4 MAX. I guess I'll wait and see which one I can snag for a better deal. Thanks again for the great content!*
I love your voice. Even if I cared nothing about 3d printers, I could still listen to you all day long.
This is the review I have been searching for! Very helpful. I really enjoy the b-roll shots that show what you’re talking about when going I’ve the features. I ordered this printer thismorning (before your review was uploaded), and I’m happy to know I made a good decision on a printer to replace my older troublesome creality cr-10 max.
you make the best printer reviews
Thanks for your great reviews as always... This one saved me from not making a mistake, being forced to used the "cloud" for network printing is a No Sale.....Thanks!
Excellent video finally someone did a full set of tests 👍
This is the most in depth review I have ever seen on any 3D printer yet! Thank you for this, I will definitely be taking a look at your other videos as this will help make my decision on my first 3D printer. Wonderful!
Hi Aurora, great video as usual. I just wanted to give a hint: i believe that the reason why there is not any calibration in klipper for resonance at tall heights is because what you are experiencing at the top of tall prints is not printer resonance but vibration of the printed part itself, so it will depend also on what you are printing, and cannot be calibrated in advance. You usually test the tall vase which is very light and tends to "move" more. If you can i d make a test with a more "solid" print to see if the effect is less noticeable. Hope this helps
Cheers
Also resonance of the complete system changes as weight and geometry changes
Sounds like a solvable problem for Klipper, but absolutely way more complicated than the basic input shaping case. A basic approach might be for Klipper to pause large prints after each 100mm in Z height or so, and doing temporary input shaping recalibrations.
I love your voice as well! You are a good presenter. The review is on point with excellent technical evaluation, detailed and clear descriptions, and helpfull comparisons. Subbed!
Expecting this printer in a couple of days. I didn't have the others to test against, but the reviews convinced me. Also, swore I wouldn't buy another printer with leveling wheels.
Very neat printer but I love cheap secondhand printers I know I love working on them and fixing them ❤
i habe 5 3d primters , all bought secondhand, never have i encountered the issues i encountered with this brand new sidewinder x4 pro ......ridiculous.....fresh out the box, 6 prints in encountered issues lol. the auto bed leveling is simply trash.
Great work Aurora and team.
Amazing review Aurora! I was looking at either the Neptune or Kobra for the large print format. Now that I have seen both reviews from you I know which one I'll be ordering.
Thanks a lot for the best, complete and the full review for the Kobra 2 Max. From a user of this model I thank all this information that nor fabricant do of his own product. 😊
Thank you so much for such a thorough examination of this piece of hardware.
Great video as always. I'm considering the Anycubic Kobra 2 MAX for a print farm (I already bought one), BUT, the wi-fi printing only being available over the cloud will likely (and unfortunately) send me back to their competitors. Also, they might get a return. We will see. @ANYCUBIC3D
I have the Kobra max. I modded the cooling duct and converted it to a direct drive. I have zero problems as I'm using this for mass production vs volume. I was really hoping they'd go with a true direct drive however I may get this anyway. Thank you.
surprised these "new" models dont come with direct drive..i was surprised to find the same abt the shit x4pro i bought that is going back to them tomorrow; refundddd!!!
@CommentThink I just posted a video on my other channel unboxing and putting together this printer, the Kobra 2 max. Definitely has a direct drive and uses the bowden as a guide from the spool and runout sensor to the extruder. I did my first print last night and this is a great printer.
@@shadowmosesmusic sheeeeesh, im receving my kobra 2 max sundaayyyyyy (ordered after watching the reviewww)
Glad do hear it performs well... because I couldn't wait and already bought one 😂 👍
thanks for the review. I just purchased this printer from MicroCenter for $399. Hope I made a good decision.
I hear and read people crying and complaining about the AnyCubic Kobra 2 MAX Like "It's impossible to print anything or do anything with it" Or "It's just trash because i couldn't get anything to print" I just find that filament boogies fling everywhere when im printing, dont know if it's a retraction issue or what but my prints always come out ok.
Thanks for the video! I’ve been looking at the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, but the Kobra seems like a better deal overall.
I think the same
I made the mistake of not waiting long enough and buying a cr-10 s5 as my first 3d printer... they dropped in price dramatically.
Welcome to the club. During the time you would have been waiting, you were actually printing and having fun, hopefully. The worst plan is to buy a printer (because it's on sale for example), and then not use it for like a year, because by that time there will be better printers out for less money. And the last year of so of new printers has proved that in spades. I don't know that we'll see innovation as rapid in the coming year, though. We may have reached another plateau for awhile. Bambu Lab really set the new standard.
Yeah… looking at what I spent on my first printer is embarrassing today😊… My wife definitely hasn’t forgotten 🤦♂️.
I bought a kobra 2 and less than one month and a half and they come up with the Kobra 2 Pro with Klipper 😅
@@TheBlitzGen8832 I thought one of her complaints here was lack of Klipper
Great review as usual. Just subbed. I'll put off buying the Kobra 2 MAX until something comes along that will also let me print at least ASA and provides hardened steel nozzles as an option. This will probably be Bambu, albeit at a much higher price. 3DJake has this machine on offer for only € 363 at the moment.
Great video review as usual. Very detailed and thorough and unbiased.
I got the Kobra 2 Pro a few days ago thanks to your recommendation list. It's working very well, I'm glad I listened to you, thank you all for your hard work :)
Wow 🤩 I love the assembly instruction visuals! Definitely keep that, well done 👍.
Excellent video as always. Please smile more, I miss that cheerful young lady from Danville California. 😊
thank you, you prevented me from wasting my money! since it is not even possible to drive it via USB from Octoprint, i can not run it, since internet is not always reliable here.
Great video. Using the Kobra 2 Max for a month, the auto leveling works pretty bad on the edge of the print bed, especially on the left, which is the same as your result. They get too close on the left and too far on the bottom right. Any suggestion to improve the bed leveling? With no adjust knob, this is just something I cannot fix.
Also, the nozzle seems wear out fast for the one comes with the printer, strongly recommend to change to hardensteel nozzle.
Check your gantry distance from the bottom to the bed (I used the Rook for Kobra 2 max on printables) can use anything that allows you to check the distance tho; mine was off about 2mm from right to left, the rook gave me a stable surface to be able to level from
I've heard of soneone putting sticky notes under the bed to shim.
Hey I think this needs to be linked on your 3D printer comparison spreadsheet. The one on your website. Thanks for doing this!
It's on the list, just search for 'kobra 2 max' in the search box and you will find it.
@@AuroraTech right, but this TH-cam video is not linked to the printer when the printer comes up. The TH-cam logo button you guys use to signify you’ve made a review video about it is missing.
I hope AnyKubic opens up their hardware…it would transform these Kobra series printers. Assuming they don’t use a noisy motor like mine has.
I also think their leveling may be a little flawed. I’ve had to live adjust my Z on occasion.
Hi Aurora and Helios, I have one (or more) question(s) for you. Considering you have reviewed and accumulated so many printers, I am wondering if you have been able to test them over a longer period of time to determine which ones continue to work well versus ones that degrade or even cease functioning? In my own experience, most printers that have poor quality components tend to fail within a 30-day period of just occasional use. I am not suggesting that you run up your electric bill with unnecessary printing but even running a stress test of a very long print lasting several days might provide some insight on component wear, misalignment propensity, or build quality degradation. And if this happens, I wonder how good their support of their products would be via phone, text chat or email. So, if you ever wanted to add value to your exceptionally great content, this might provide you with a way to revisit printers you have reviewed to see if they are still worth the cost of ownership after extended use. Thanks!
I hope my anycubic kobra 2 max coming tomorrow 😃
I was going to buy a kobra max 2, but i have a kobra max that I can't find parts for, so I fear the same will hold true for the kobra max 2. PS. I really like your channel, I haven't watched it more than a hand full of times, but i do like your reviews, and I Think you have the best channel out there.
Thanks for the review decided to buy one.
Ive heard from some people normal nozzles still work is this something you wpuld be willing to test?
Great Video! Im a newer 3d Printer/maker and content creator and that was very informative and precise
Great video Aurora. I’ve been using this printer daily for almost a month now and it is okay, but is much to closed off for its current abilities. This printer is quite decent when printing in PLA but it’s annoying that everything is geared toward printing in PLA on it; all calibrations and are hard coded so can’t optimize the calibration for PETG which needs to be printed at higher temps; also more calibration points for a print bed this large would be much better; would be nice if their firmware allowed the ability to specify the inputs on their calibrations; some feedback for anycubic if you have a contact with them
A friend of mine recommended this printer to me a short time ago. I looked for it today, and AnyCubic is having their 9th Anniversary sale which saved me enough to purchase a couple accessories and a bunch of filament. Your video is linked to the Kobra 2 Max, so I watched your video and then I made the purchase. I've also subscribed to your TH-cam Channel and clicked ALL. You're very knowledgeable about 3D Printers. If you don't mind me asking, how many years have you been 3D Printing, and which 3D CAD do you prefer? Thank you very much.
Hi Aurora, I have a question about the Kobra 2 Max and I have not been able to find an answer. I bought this 3DP and I've had it for just over a month. It's big and I didn't have any place to set it up. I cleared an area in my basement, and I installed better lighting and a new electric outlet to power it. Then I bought a shelf unit and I built it as a bench for the Kobra 2 Max. My Question is, how far does the table overhang the base of the printer when the Y Axis is fully extended to the back and front of the Printer Base??? I don't want to set the bench to close to the wall. I also want to have a back 6 inches tall so nothing falls off of the bench and get lost. So, the area the Printer is placed on the Bench must be extended to give room for the full travel of the table. Thank you very much for an answer to my question.
Great review!
One minor nit, I think: the little cleaning block is made of silicone, not silicon, I presume. Pure silicon is a hard mineral. Silicone is family of oils and rubbery polymers.
Jeeez! What a detailed review. Nice! Helped me with decision. Thank You.
I must say your channel is very informative by the way you do your testing.
Outstanding video as always! Just wondering, are you planning on reviewing the Ender 3 V3 KE? If so, would you recommend that over the Bambu Lab A1 Mini? Thanks as always!
better buy this or the elegoo neptune 4 max?
Carefull with the auto Z-Offset. Mine was set 2mm to low, scratching the bed before I caught it, du to plastic being on the nozzel. The offset sensing works over conductiveness and the wiping doesn't work propperly, so filament residue can mak the leveling fail without any indication, ramming the nozzel into the bed.
Hi if you want to print ABS can you upgrade the heat bed
I wish i had the luck with this printer after several days of messing with it. I only had 2 successful prints. I have a ticket open know let's see how they respond. I had high hopes. I really want a large format 3D printer. The bed seems to be unleveled and the filament isn't sticking to the need. I followed the instructions they have, I also washed the plate, used glue stick and ran a temp tower to ensure filament settings are correct. The same filament is running on my 3 other Bambu Lab printers with out issue. What else can I do? I want this printer to work but it will be returned if I can't get the bed leveled in the next couple days. Anycubic advertise auto bed leveling, but that is not true.
OOOooofph now I am much happier I bought an elegoo neptune max those cons are all deal killers!!! plus it's a $120 cheaper with the $30 off discount code.. well that stopped my drooling over a K-2Max for one of my next printer's think I will just focus on getting a few Bambu's next, really to bad this printer would have been awesome to add in my collection...
Excellent presentation. Subscribed.
Have you had a chance to do a firmware upgrade? and if so have you noticed any improvements to the bed leveling? Also is the PEI sheet reversable and usable on its spring steel side if there is one? I usually use glass for my prints for a smoother finish. Again thank you for this review.
Great job, as always👏🏻 will you test the Creality cr-m4? Thank you so much for what you do👏🏻
Hello. Where did you get the printer profile? Can you give the settings for the 2 max printer?
Love your reviews. Between this and the Flsun V400, which one would you pick? (If those were the only two options). And why?
If those were the only 2 options, I will get the Kobra 2 Max. The FLSUN V400 is a good machine, but it's too tall for that print volume (300x300x410). Its actual print volume is 150x150x3.14x410 = 28,966,500mm³, which is 24% smaller than a 300x300x400=36,000,000mm³ CR-10 style bed slinger as the V400 is a cylinder. I would rather keep a large machine like this Kobra 2 Max 420x420x500=88,200,000mm³ with a 3.04 times larger print volume with a lower price.
What do you recommend between this and Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, and why?
I think you should be using the exact same filament among all printers for most accurate results as filaments really vary in quality/ flow/ temps etc.
Hello, I just bought this printer and I m glad I found this amazing video! I was looking for nozzles in amazon and apart from what you showed, I found others that didnt have the ''butt'' in the end(volcano style). However, some people said that it worked for their kobra 2 printers. You think there is no chance a volcano nozzle fits this printer without any hotend modifications? thanks
was thinking about replacing my N4Max with this one then I hear about the closed network then im like nah...
I have three of them now. The problem I have is with large prints taking up to 10 KG of filament. The lower layers can print fast but above 1KG +- .5 kg you need to slow it down, because it will JUMP and print off sometimes up to 6 mm, but mostly about 1.5 mm. It could be the Y motor need to be aligned to the exact magnetic position of that motor. If you are halfway in between the motor 1.8 deg motion, you are in limbo and it will slip to align with it. I have not figured out how to set that. I have now 4 completely worthless prints. I will keep on trying different settings. But maybe it is the dimension of the part does not lend itself to a precise 1.8 deg motor setting. But this Kobra 2 Max is amazing on under 1 KG. I keep trying to print at 230 MM/ sec and huge prints, do not work. So, have to slow it down after the first 1KG roll.
Makes sense. The more weight on the bed will be harder to move accurately at higher speed as there is more mass to accelerate and decelerate with precision.
From 500mm/s you changed to 250mm/s print speed for PLA, so its not really a fast printer, even when you change it to 50mm/s, its still shows stringing, ghosting and ringing @17:05, the new firmware updates reduced the recommended speed to 150mm/s. Direct connect to WIFI is still not working. The nozzle and block is unique design and you cant find it on the market, if you order from them with a bigger nozzle size! they say only print with 0.4 size and they say we don't recommend to change to bigger nozzle size and it is not open source printer.
Amazing! Thank you for the review!!
bytlan here, have you ever done the endurance testing of these 3d FDM printers. I have a list of machines I have bought over the years and they all have failed. (um, the motors all still working fine individually, but left in the board, they just crap out) Some I've replaced the mobo's (up to 3) times and never got a print or would flash correctly. others I've run and got only small prints to work when they were to 300mm mark sizes. Davinci enclosed ($500) was my first machine - ABS great... Anet was next, the build was crap till I did the rebuild on those plastic frames (8bit) and got like 1-1/2+ years before a mobo went and replaced. And the list of machines bought just all failed after only a couple of months to a 2 year run on 1 and they don't make anymore. I have 2 machines currently still running prints OK. None of them are Klipper. Not that I haven't tried to convert just not figured out the install to work. I am rather convinced they are all designed to fail - chips preprogramed to do that (designed obsolescence is a known engineering process). I am at either hot mail or yahoo if your interested in my results. I've written the many companies and the results are equally so disappointing. Also a few China TH-camrs who were posting on much of the same products of your site and channel shows she did and would do more with open source is no longer posting. I've found out the GOV have blocked them from future posting. Also many companies get emails blocked as they claim nothing received, yet nothing of failed email delivery replies or returned to me information. The knowing of good machine performance is good information as you post quite well but the endurance and even service reply is still quite a lot of left to be desired. You as a promoter may not get these results. warranty often does not exist for anything purchased from China, it does not exist. Thank you! Please keep posting as I do enjoy them - even your flubs are good to see you as a real person. Not much known of your brother though... just keep it up and your posted www site. Thankx...
How about the best printer for abs
Very detailed. Great video, thank you
Your website is awesome and this review is so freaking thorough. So useful! Assuming one was in the market for a large 3D printer along these lines, do you think it is worth waiting to see if something else hits the market that can beat this machine? What are your predictions?
Hi Aurora, wow you know your stuff. I am trying to find a multi color 3d printer to make a multi color product that is 18 inches by 4 inches by 1 inch. What would you recommend?
Did ya oil the linear rods and u wheels? They can wear.
Does it print via internet without using their slicer interface/ app? Not my tea there really. Might be cool ig if free.
Overall, hardware looks great otherwise. The 'llama' print had some odd z lines, compared to the others but time was zippy fast.
14:50 Do you have a picture how the eleego Neptune 4 Max did it?
Anycubic was my goto printer manufacturer but I just got a new kobra plus with screen rebooting issue. Can you suggest a user forum that can help me troubleshoot the problem? I found your channel today and subscribed. I look forward to your future videos.
Hi,
Would you buy this or the Neptune 4 max
We want to print model patterns for foundry casting,
So needs to be accurate with a smooth surface finish.
Thanks
Kobra 2 Max is better than Neptune 4 Max.
@@AuroraTech Thanks for the reply,
I'll buy a Kobra Max 2 👍
Also can you please make a video for buying guide?
Great video! I like that you print so much tests and it claimed outstandingly!!! I am maybe considering buying a Anycubic Kobra 2 Max, but this closed wifi is a compromise… I also think it is difficult to calibrate Input shaping at higher print heights, but maybe via algorithms they can compensate it better. One Tipp I would give, before autoleveing, let the heatbed heat up for somelike 15min so it can deform how it would while printing, as if you do so the levelling is much more accurate. I have heard other creators talking about this. How long btw. does it take to heat up the bed and nozzle?
Sorry for my language
Heating up the nozzle is fast; it takes around 1.5 minutes to go from room temperature to 220°C. However, all DC powered large beds heat up slow. It takes 7-8 minutes to go from room temperature to 60°C and 18-20 minutes to reach the maximum temperature of 90°C.
I totally agree with you on the rubbish wifi and closed shop...:-( Mine is going back despite all its good points
Input shaper will probably not be possible with a tall print on a bed slinger. It is the part you are printing that is vibrating and deflecting, not the printer. So your input shaper would need to be calibrated to each print geometry somehow. Also, the input shaper setting would vary as you print as the part geometry is changed with each new layer.
More rigid tall parts may have much better print quality. The flexing part causing poor print quality at the top may only be a problem when printing what are essentially flimsy vase mode 500 mm tall trash cans.
@@Liberty4Ever I get the feeling that flimsy vase-mode trash cans (FVMTC) are all that big printers are good for, unless you are ok with taking two weeks to print something big and more solid, because time-to-print scales roughly with the cube of the dimensions.
@@yeroca - I'm interested in a large format FDM 3D printer for the large build plate so many parts can be printed in a single job, or the occasional large relatively flat functional part can be printed, but with a large nozzle, high flow hot end and a large spool of filament, I can see where a large printer like this could be good for prop departments, architectural models, cosplay, etc.
Reduce the Y acceleration and jerk, possibly as a function of layer (Z), and you have solved your problems, with only a negligible loss (increase) of print time; especially with large parts with long straight runs. On bed slingers (and coreXY too), even with Marlin, I always set the Y acceleration/jerk to a lower value than X.
I care much more about print quality rather than, once in a lifetime, print time of a part.
@@Liberty4Ever Thanks for the reply. Yeah that makes a lot of sense.
Thank you for saving my money. If they want me to use their cloud nonsense then that tells me this printer will be an expensive doorstop after a decade. I'll be checking your other reviews.
Someone will likely release an alternative firmware to sidestep that by then
@@Max_JanszenAt the prices these large printers go for, I wouldn't risk it. I'd rather just use something like the Neptune 4 Max which support open source firmwares.
The smaller version has it's firmware on GitHub now so they probably open source after a certain amount of time.
And its on sale now for $519! I just grabbed one ;)
Oh, and free shipping!
399 at microcenter...just got it....lots of issues so far though
And how can you fix the fiaurr in corner for the flat piece in pla??????
The heat break can be swapped to a viper one, so one can use standard volcano nozzels.
Can it really?? Thank you so much for that info!
@@SynthaPak I haven't done the swap to the bimetal heatbreak yet, but the dimensions are the exact same. You will need a bit of ptfe tube between the heatbrake end and the extruder gears.
The new heatbrake just has a cylindrical recess at the hot side, in which the ac nozzels set into but I don't see the reason for this.
Hey, it is possible to add any video about hardware tweaking for bed slingers? (ie Kobra 2 Max?)
Great! Perfect review!
I’m having issues with layer shifts and they range from minor to extreme I’ve tried everything from loosening to tightening belts to tightening the screws and the pulleys everything
Awesome review, I seen this printer being used from another YTber and I am interested. The price point isn't bad. I like the size that it allows, going to use this for printing RC 1:10 scale parts and bodies. I was wondering about spare parts and the filament tube about it's longevity. Als meant to ask, how many times did you have to clean or prep the bed
I'm confused by your rating system. I'm looking for the best large 3d printer but this is the only large sized 3D printer on your website or did I miss something? I would like to point out I am blind and my reader was having trouble with your website.
I got it and I do have overextrusion on first layer, underextrusion on last layer and problems with temps of bed. also rosa pla (about 20$/kg) prints terrible no matter what temps or speed I use, but colorfil pla (about 12$/kg) looks good. this is my first 3d printer and idk what to do. Could you give me some advices what i can do to make my prints better?
Awesome video! They just dropped new firmware this week, 2.3.9, did you use this for the first layer test?
I believe this update also allow filament color change m600 I believe.
so Huge. I would need to use it 3d Print a table a table for it self.
Amazing size, seems like a good printer for the price, but I noticed it's loud. It's annoying that lots of 3d printer manufacturers don't focus on the fan noise
Hello! How do you do the “calibration” you were referring too?
Were you talking about esteps and flow rate? Because i cant for the life of me figure out how to calibrate those.
Seems i cant even connect the printer to my computer?
Any info would be so helpful
Great video, thank you for sharing.
Any way to calibrate extrusion?
I'm looking at buying this printer. How big of a table do I need? My table is 25" with a wall on the backside. Would it fit?
I have Mine on a 36" square table it fits but not a lot of extra room left
dear hello does kobra 2 max has a resume option ?
Is it true that Kobra2 series don't work with OctoPrint? I'd like to remote monitor the printer, and more importantly do timelapse video.
The AnyCubic 9th Anniversary Sale ends in a day and a half from now. I saved $231 dollars on the current cost of this 3DP.
I need help with my Kobra 2 max
How to connect this printer to PC, I want to configure "Axis Steps", it seems to be impossible, there is no way to make the connection :(
Darn...lost me with the lower extruder temperature and proprietary firmware... I was leaning toward this over the Neptune 4 Max but I really need a higher temp hot end and it doesn't sound easy to upgrade...
How did yours print so well? There are 1000s of negative reviews on the Anycubic Kobra Max 2 Facebook group. So many issues with layer height, layer shift, noises...
Can you please create a detailed print guide / share your printer profiles?
You have to tighten all your stuff after heating up, tram the gantry, and do check for loose screws on the pulley. Proper tensioning and tightening of the y axis plates and toolhead is also required.
This isn’t an easy printer, a lot of the people in the FB group are really inexperienced.
You can download the PrusaSlicer print profile I used and all the G-code files I printed in this video here:
auroratechchannel.com/download/Kobra2Max.zip
@@aminorinternet I agree and this should have been mentioned in the review also
@@AuroraTech wow!! Would you mind if I linked the Facebook Kobra 2 Max group to your download? Everyone is struggling with this printer. It is so difficult and inconsistent. And you seem to have no trouble at all! Maybe because yall are some 3d printing Jedis...
@@AuroraTechalso... your prusa profiles have some arcwelder.exe dependency that is causing errors. any chance you can reupload without the arc welder stuff?
Neptune 4 max or Kobra 2 max?
Kobra 2 Max
Wonder what items can be printed in such a big size (420x420x500mm) when ABS/Nylon/Polycarbonate can't be used.