Brake Disc Fixing after they were not straight anymore....
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ม.ค. 2015
- Brake disc fixing after they were hot of braking and I entered puddle with them....
Why no one reads description before commenting ?
Discs were almost new, you can see by drills on side for "better" ventilation... I still think its just for the look. to be more cool those lines drilled on sides...
So i was driving a bit faster, saab 9-3 stage 2. And they were a bit hot, or very hot whatever. And then i dont know why I thought it will be fun to enter puddle and wash my wheels. After that tomorrow I started to notice that my steering wheel shakes with braking.
So I payed like 20e to this guy to make them straight doing by taking slight like a few micrometers. And there were "meat" or thickness to take a few millimeters. I think you change discs when they wear like 19mm by the book of saab and this ones had 24mm or so i forgot but still we checked and it was enough to take and still to be healthy.
So after this old guy who works with all kind of stuff did it, end product was i didnt have anymore those cool lines drilled on sides but my shakes disappeared .
I know you many of you know some other way to do it. But trust me those discs are still like new with a cheap cost.
Happy internet day ! All the best .
XYPEROX
Pure craftsmanship and art at is finest form.
Greetings for old maestro that is deciding how deep to go with knife by sound that produces.
he could have went way deeper had he mounted it properly
That's a good job mate! And half of the people commenting here know nothing about using a lathe or even about fixing cars. This old man knows very well what he is doing.
Saddly nowadays a lot of repair shops just change car parts instead of repairing them as it should be.
Of course its cheaper to buy new parts sometimes (not this one). It's cheaper to our own pockets, but throwing a piece that can be repaired and buying a new one without having in account the energetic waste should be more taken into account.
I hope some day we don't have this bad habit of thinking everything is infinite.
So good job my freind and thanks for sharing it.
As a turner myself I couldn't agree more. He rough trues the job with a burnisher like tool and machines the inner face to make perfect any minor inaccuracy in this method. Idiots trust their common sense over this mans probably 40 yrs experience. Oh he is also a dago so what would he know?....
@@vincentwhite7693 He's actually FACING not turning.
@@gongshow3045 - facing is a subset of the techniques of turning...
Useless job!!! All brake discs are given minimum limit for thickness and working with the discs is not prolonging of lifetime for them. They do not cost so much today.
@@olavipasanen4471 I respect your point of view. In my oppinion, if they are still within tolerance after the lathe work, it's worth using them. You see, sadly this words are very common today... "just throw them in the trash and buy new ones".
I bet you have been running your brake discs in your car under their thickness limit at any point as most of people do. It's a pretty safe margin.
How much i love this work and not robotics etc :P
I like how he faced the inside flange, not only does it ensure the surface is true to the rotor faces, it'll likely help in heat transfer as well.
I've turned many rotors on a full size lathe like this, much more accurate than some over used or worn out shop brake lathe.
The silver knob is technically his dial indicator. In the states it measures to a hundredth inch. The first cut is a scratch test to determine low and high spots, afterward he moves the machine a little farther than the test cut to create his first cut, starting at the inner and working the cutter out at a higher speed so rotor will look and feel coarse. Then he repeats this cut a tad deeper, and at a slower speed giving the rotor a fine cut, and smooth surface. Great video! O’Reilly’s cuts rotors for $10.
Hey Marshall, how do you make sure that the rotor is parallel to the cutter? I'm always worried that I am not parallel to the workpiece and that the rotor will be off. I should have paid more attention in machine shop LOL!
@@hw8621 with such a rusted disc there is no way to check out runout....that's the first major error of this 40years old "master"...you make a jig and clamp it like you mount it on car ;-) On VAG cars, you can repurpose bearing from your car.
I prefer a jig because there is +/- 0.0001 clamping error...who turns disc nowadays is mystery to me...espcially, if you wash hot disc with water and it distorts...it is like coated paper.
This is what I call technology
Brain 🧠 and knowledge
Years of experience 👍
What I call old school teacher 👨🏫👍
It is basic knowledge when it comes to milling. We learned that after a couple of weeks at the mechanical school.
This is what I call skimping! Brake system is not a toy, human lives depend on it. The brake disc won't be a new one even after the removal of sheetings and rust, moreover, if you thinnify the proper material thickness, it can be very dangerous by an emergency braking. If somebody has no money for new essential spare parts should have no car!
SzZsoel1. You are over reacting. If you tell anyone something of value then tell them that the newer rotors don't have as good metal so sometimes you have to replace them after several thousand miles. But thinking there is a safety problem by cutting a few thousands off a rotor, you are quite simply wrong.
yet, this guy doesn't know how to clamp disc properly :-D
first thing you learn in school and any idiot can do
Actually he did clamp it right. He clamped it loosely so the cutting tool made the rotor surface parallel. He tightened the chuck and then cut the three surfaces that need to be true with each other. ( I am thinking that he cut both sides of the rotor without dismounting it from the chuck. I didn't see him cut the other side nor did I see a tool that would reach around the rotor for cutting it.)
Sorunsuz taşlama yöntemi👏👏👏
dobrá práce ,také jsme takto soustružily brzdové kotouče !
Excellent work 💪
And now I will give my technical oppinion about the job done.
Of course you can take a dial indicator, like some say, and indicate the inner face where it makes contact with the hub face and make it run almost perfectly true.
This man used first a piece of soft metal, or a ball bearing ( I didn't see it clearly) to make contact with the outer surface and lower the runout to an acceptable amount. After that he machines both sides of the outter faces and finally he lightly skims the inner face. So the runout of this part is as perfect as the runout of the machine spindle, wich is almost inapreciable.
So that's a perfect way to do that job, and he may removed 0.2mm on each side, wich is not very much.
though the car makers list the minimum thickness to be safe so that's no problem
@@jostouw4366 it does but he didnt remove more than 0,2 mm on each side if tht much and tolerance on disc is about 2 mm
Açık,formun
I like this. I don´t know if the breaks will work for a long time. But if there is no spare part to buy, it is better then none.
It works, read desc for more info :)
You don't get craftsmen like this anymore it's all done on CNC. Unfortunately these bib and brace wearing tradesmen are a dying breed 😔
Full Ack! Had an old craftsman in the near with an old workshop, and he helped me with so much stuff... redressec the perimeter groove on a cylinder head and an exhaust manifold. it was pure quality craftmanship. Too bad he retired. I do not begrudge his retirement, but there's noone else like this left. Only extremely overpriced big companies...
PullMei Finger You can train a monkey to turn rotors Auto Mechanics have done it for over a century. Many still do on a daily basis. The reason it’s going away is because Chinese rotors are so cheap it’s just not cost effective to pay a tec to machine a rotor. Beyond that the manufacturers made the tolerances less so often by the time you machine out the rust and warpage it’s out of spec. You’ve then got a liability issue putting on rotors that are out of spec and will inevitably warp easier because there’s less material to dissipate the massive amounts of heat.
Manual machine work experience is definitely a handy skill to have. This fella knows his stuff, keep that abrasive cast iron dust away from the shears. I can do all this except screw cutting. My dad was a master machinist at Pegler Yorkshire in Leeds, he retired when the factory closed. He taught me most of my lathe skills.
Sorry folks Typo error in the last post - finished my apprenticeship in 1965 not 1985 - wish I could lose 20 years that easily lol
All 3 surfaces in 1 setup. Good enough for me.
Its the best way, i always do so.
3:49 - 3:52 ''Овај, требају ти маказе за лим и чекић.''
"Makaze za lim, to su ti one zelene, tamo sa strane..."
Love that rag chip guard-lath looks like it is ancient. The problem with turning a warped rotor is that it will usually rewarp itself, because the metal is still stressed. Better heat treat it first.
read desc
very cool sir!
You did the right thing, but it will happen again if you make a hard brake from high speed, jebiga...:)
Inner face where bolt holes are should be set up with a dial indicator because this is the face that makes contact with the drive shaft and aligns the whole disc. If this inner face doesn't run true with the braking surfaces, you will feel shuddering on the brake paddle.
bottoming that surface to the back of the jaws is all you would, and should do.
after light skimming of both faces of the "disk" (rotor) then you should make a light pass over its connecting face that bolts to the wheel hub thus making everything run true
That will true the car wheel onto the brake rotor, but not the rotor to the hub. But this inner surface, both the male and female side, is usually true. It doesn't warp much, like the outer rotor does.
Pieter Botes I agree! It did not seem a very good contact with the flange chuck contact side sitting against the face of the chuck, especially the way he tapped it out before tightening the rotor!! The whole resurfacing is pointless if you can't get this chuck alignment true!
@@FrancoisLabelle-yf8tj Brother, I think people should just consider to think about things before they start a job like this. The initial setup is critical. Ignore basic principles and the job will have to be redone!
great idea to wash out overheated discs :-D If your discs distort...chuck them to the bin...they are made from some crap disc alloy
true master who clamps brake disc by bell and distort it and then without checking runout with clock and turns that disc :-D
those milled slots are for cleaning brake pads and they are usually sign of max. wear of discs if milled properly ;-)
Quedo chulada ese jale!
Shouldn't the datum be the bore that mates with the hub? Was thinking an arbor would be more accurate. Either way, glad it worked out.
Дед, конечно, токарь не плохой, жаль только что нихуа не понимает для чего он это делает
Good work .Fram Pakistan
I resurface disk at work like this. Fun fact: manufacturers have limit measurements for the disk cutting. If you cut too much possible your brake piston could come off or seized.
Good job. Think you
I am totally blown away how this was done an a lathe. I was going to say something about a dial indicator,but at 7:40, he shaved the inner hub. Very lite shave and he was very close setting the rotor up.
Can you please show your quick change tool post once i liked the design soo much please
Look for ToT youtuber. You welcome.
Finally a decent comment.
Its called Multifix
Why do you index to the face of the rotor, instead of the back where the wheel hub bolts tight too?
Steve Zickefoose you are from Amerika, or?
Ese torno es de los mejores.
Τέλειο το δισκόφρενο που εφτιαξες στον τόρνο 1.000 μπράβο πάντως .
Doing this facing turning knurling etc. since 95...
yes its better to buy some new rotors,,,, yes it maybe more cost effective than using a machine shop service in some countries
pretty sure he considered all of that
but only the owner of this problem gets to choose what to do ...who knows it could be :
1 - he is broke and this is slightly cheaper than buying new ones
2 - rotors for his particular model are not available and it could be a custom brake job
3 - ITS HIS DISCS
4 - and if your going to comment at least read the description before commenting
He has skills, he could make a tool to locate it properly.
@@PeteKu100 He has the tools! They are his hand and his eye's. And all the years in his past .
Muy bien!!!
No way that went well, no fucking way. 🤯
Totalna porażka .....co ten gość wyprawia ?!
I have one slight criticism: It would be best to make a perfectly squared mounting plate that you bolt the rotor onto. This would use the correct datum point (or face), that the hub and wheel square up with. If made long enough it would also allow you to resurface both faces.
also thought about that :) but he takes care of the problem at 7.40 into the clip.
@@angu1338 I was all "Y U no indicate old man!" Seems to have got it all trued up.
I would not let him touch my car rotor the way his set up.datum not corret.
Это породия на проточки
I didn't think people even bothered turning rotors anymore. Most people I know simply trash them for new ones
I had cut rotor from 300mm diameter to 272mm. Used drum lathe with flipped bit holder.
Pulsation issue long gone since i have 2mm thicker rotor than factory specs. Also now i just change pads without doing anything to the rotor. Drove about 130,000 miles on the same rotor.
Lu masctr jie lu masctr nzi tosc👍🏻
...dobrá práce...kolega z Tschech 👉 👍👍✊🙋
vždyť to má blbě upnutý-za rezavej venek jo?to se upíná za vnitřní malej průměr a musí se to opřít koněm jinak to bude házet.
I can only speak for Ontario Canada . This is what used to be done with a brake job if the calipers still had enough meat on the the caliper they would to turn them now they don't turn them anymore they just replace them.
Reason they don't is that they are all made of such cheap steel now they turn into crystal the moment they get overheated. I have turned them and they do ok for a while but some of them are through-hardened in certain areas and are consequently ended up to be junk again after a few thousand miles.
if it is not for yourself this is in most cases too expensive for rotors, they cost not much). Nevertheless love to see this from a real craftsman.
It is not easy to find a machinist who makes these one-time hand jobs these days. Lathing the rotors is still in demand but the machinist is not always there when you need him.
I don't believe the normal shop rate applies to hand jobs. I'll check with my boss.
Blanchard ground is the way to do it coolant flood no warp
I used to cut rotors back in the day but now out of Health concern I just replace
As a licensed mechanic and a hobby machinist. This what he did, does work, because he skimmed the inside surface where the rotor bolts onto the bearing hub. I have to say that this method is very clever. Of the hundreds of brake jobs I've done it's not uncommon to see 0.007" run-out when a customer is complaining of a pulsation. To clean that up, requires a minimum of 0.014" of material removed on a commercial brake lathe, and in some cases that much removal puts the rotor under minimum thickness. By zeroing the warped rotor to the cutting heads, he removes the least amount of material since the run-out is now transferred to the hub surface. The closer to the center of the rotor the lower the run-out will be. Here it's just a simple skim. You can't do this on a commercial brake lathe because the collets and cones uses the hub surface to hold the rotor in place.
Very good explanation! You saved my time. 👍
Ken Lange. You are exactly right! There sure are a lot of beginners on this site that are obsessed with that stupid dial indicator.
Конец дискам!
Very good, good tool to machinig the other side
Whats so funny is all you armchair machinist clever comments...this old man has been doing this forever without DTI and has forgotten what you have not even learnt yet...he would not be still doing it if it didnt work....
You don't turn the lever by hand, ridiculous
Lol man your right
@@paulsavage9268 if I put it like this, Ewen if the guy payed me! I've wouldn't let him Turn my disc,s. 😂
Just because someone is old doesn't mean they haven't been doing it wrong their entire life ..... I can guarantee you he hasn't been doing rotors all these years he would have died of hunger. this was a fail before he even turned the lathe on.
No DTI used on the Inner Face. I would guarantee that he didn't serve a full apprenticeship.
Lathe MAS SN 20 czechoslovakia ?? 400x1000? :)
Ne, MAS SN 20 je podobný, ale menší.
Kecám je to on. Má akorát větší motor.
Old school is the best
Good job 👍🏻
👏👏👏👏👏
Tay nghê gioi quá 👍🏆👏👏👏👏🤗🙋♀️
Ahhh you guys. The best way is with an indicator, but an experienced lathe operator can bump anything up to the disc and then rotate 180 degrees and you can indeed eyeball, with sufficient light on the opposite side easily within a couple thousandths of an inch which is close enough since you are cutting all important surfaces to the same plane. Worst case is you would remove too much material if you were off in your setup.
This is a reply to myself after watching a second time. The operator first eyeballs the disc, likely looking at the clearance from the face of the chuck on the back side and then he makes an adjustment with his wrench banging the disc into a truer plane. THEN he puts a dull/non-cutting tool against the face and turns on the machine. Then as he runs the dull tool slowly in, the tool trues up the face to as good as a dial indicator would do because he has left the chuck slightly loose, so the disc actually moves. Then he tightens the chuck up and puts a cutter in and goes to town. This guy is smart!
@@mikebarnes1758 exactly good spot jeez all wannabe machinists are in full force today and old guy can eyeball it good rest is just taking material off and since he does it all in one chucking it'll run like charm saved a few bucks
only problem left is if you clamp it by bell, it is already distorted ;-)
when you mount it will be crap
clock, jig +/- 0.00001 precision...saving car bearings and life of poor driver ;-)
@ three surfaces in one setting. It works
@ Maybe if this car was going to be doing 2000 mph I could see a need for that kind of precision lol. I think anywhere within .001 should be just fine...it's a car.
No chuck guard? HSE would love that!
What is chuck guard and what is theother thing?
Did they mic these rotors to see if they were thick enough to cut? They look thin to me.
Infelizmente não presta dessa forma
Brake lathe works better.. and cheaper to replace rotors and drums than machine..
That's true about a brake lathe. Cutting rotors and drums is cheaper but sometimes not a lot cheaper. Where cutting can be a problem is a number of rotors don't have very stable metal so sometimes within several thousand miles the rotor thickness and run-out change. Then it is far cheaper to replace rotors but drums don't seem to show problems due to poor metal. Fifty years ago it was almost unheard of to have bad results from resurfacing rotors. Since I have my own Ammco resurfacer I cut my own rotors but replace the rotors if they act up again. I do tell anyone that wants them cut to be prepared to possibly replace them later.
Why wasn't it aligned with a dial indicator on the surface where it bolts to the hub?
I don't know. I just recorded a guy who was fixing it for me. Did a great job. No more shakes while braking.
Because it doesn't matter. He mounted it in the chuck somewhat loose. Ran a bar on it while it was spinning. That basically averaged out the high and low spots. Tightened the chuck. Then turned the outboard side, then the inboard side. Finally the wheel mounting surface. That last step makes the mounting surface on the exact same plane as both brake surfaces.
Still, thats bad practice... should have DTI'ed it.
I know old boys like this... They just know their stuff when it comes to machining... He would have used a dial gauge if he thought it was necessary. When you have been machining for decades you get good... His eyeometer is just fine.
Calipers can move, doesn't need to be accurate. They are made to work with the hub runout you can't prevent either.
I would be more concerned if the discs were parallel when done and not undersize for the application. How about the heat slots ?
So the inside disc face and the disc faces are parallel. Accepted.
What about the external disc face which the wheel is bolted to.
Is that parallel to anything ?
Ever heard of balancing rotating items which run at high speed ?
wow! where is your workshop location. I like to bring my rotors to you. How much would charge to fix them?
this cost me 20e or 30e i cant remember was long time ago, if you think its profitable for you you can ship it and i will return it to you.Not my shop, local shops.. there are few.... They can do much more this one works home, old guy and does these easy fixes :) really cheap. In Serbia. Tell me what you need and i can connect you
Ula kalem kesmiyi elması değiş elmasiiiiiiiiiii lapara !!!
My new discs
i use adapter for fix
So what's the purpose of caching break dust and metal cuttings on the cardboard and than dumping it on the floor?
Stops the cast iron from going on the slides as it then goes under the saddle and scores the slides..SIMPLZ
👍👍👍👍
I did this on a 15” lablonde and it shook the wheel I fixed my rotor / drum machine an and it was smooth....I didn’t understand either
Even 0.002" difference in thickness, front to back, of the disc, from one spot to another, will cause a lot of pulsation in the brake pedal.
Abom rolling in his...
I want your shop work
Que chapuza !!!!!!! Todo a ojo sin medir nada que chapucero !!!!!!
He did a good job from just eying it but I could never do this to warped or lipped brakes, It just seems the same as putting part worn tyres on my car, 2 of the most important things.
It's completely safe to do to warped or lipped brakes, as long as they have not reached their minimum thickness... lipping is no huge deal anyway, it's just due to the car manufacturer using pads that are slightly too small to cover the whole disc...
Your discs are probably warped on your car already and you don't know because the calipers move to account for the side play of te disc as it wears as it is a consumable.
ok ..watched it till the end and the part where he machined the hub surface flat at the end is something he could not have done on a brake lathe .. and since apparently that was the reason it had to be done on regular lathe to do whole thing I take back everything negative I said because a warped hub would have made EVERYONE throw that rotor in the trash and replace with new .. I old school repair using a tool not meant for brake rotors was in this case the proper tool for the job
Not really, becase only one side is true, but the other side of the disc can still be out of spec which will make the whole car shake, you dont fix disks like this guy did if u want them to run proper.
Do you even indicate, bro ??
Yea I will just clock it in by eye 🤣
You missed it actually at 0:50 self centering and final tight afterwards. He is not a rookie.
Only 2 sufaces skimmed? What about disc surface that faces outside?
three
Ta tokarka to Hitlera pamięta :) To nie to, co dzisiejsze narzędzia i maszyny made in China.
Pozdrawiam
If the outside disc surface (on the car) does not run true in the lathe (with a dial indicator) before machining, and the machined surface does run true after machining, then obviously the disc thickness will not be uniform causing pulsation when braking. In the second operation, if the hub surface (inside on car) does not run true before machining, then after machining the inside will run true but the wheel will wobble because the wheel mounting surface is no longer parallel to the hub mounting surface. The correct way is to mount the disc in the chuck so that the hub mounting surface does not run out when measured with a dial indicator. Then, machine both surfaces of the disc. When all four surfaces (inner and outer disc surfaces and inner and outer hub surfaces) indicate zero, disc will be machined properly.
I agree with this. I guess I am unsure of how the machinist indexed the rotor to ensure that the hub face is mounted properly in the machine chuck. It looked to me like he just set it in there and eyeballed it. I'm sure there's more to it than that. I have machined a number of rotors on a dedicated brake lathe and know from experience that if the hub face is not perfectly perpendicular to the rotating axis of the machine the new cut(s) will be out of parallel with the hub face causing shake. It obviously worked out but I don't get it. Kudos to the experience of this machinist.
Arbeitssicherheit wird da ganz groß geschrieben!!
So jemanden nennt man alten Hasen. Und dich wohl Hasenfuss. Der Typ macht das nicht erst seit 10-15 Jahren. Und dem scheint es ganz gut zu gehen. :)
bin selbst SichIng, was wollen Sie dem Mann mit Arbeitssicherheit kommen, der lacht sie aus.
Unfallverhütung, damit er gesund in den Ruhestand gehen kann?!
Der Mann arbeitete bis er in der Werkstatt tot umfällt, das wir seine höchste Erfüllung sein und nicht irgendwelche Aushänge und Unsinnigkeiten der BG.
Scheiß egal ob er das schon 50 Jahre lang macht. Die Unachtsamkeit kennt keine Erfahrung.
Erst letzte Woche hat sich ein Kollege der seit 40 Jahren den Job macht den Finger bis auf den Knochen aufgetrennt weil er reflexartig mit der Hand einen Wirrspan vom Meißel entfernt hat.
Grade sehr junge und sehr alte Mitarbeiter sind anfällig für Unfälle. Einmal aus mangelnder Erfahrung und zum anderen aus Überheblichkeit, weil "ist ja noch nie was passiert". Das Schicksal interessiert das recht wenig. Das wickelt dich wenn es sein muss auch noch ne halbe Stunde vor deinem Ruhestand ums Backenfutter.
@@jannik1502 ohne Frage, aber dem Mann, ich gehe davon aus, dass er sein Chef ist, den juckt das nicht. Den können Sie den Kollegen im Rollstuhl vorbeifahren. Ist er angestellt, dann können (müssen) Sie 'Druck' machen, denn Chefe ist der Blöde im Fall der Fälle.
PS: Betriebswirtschaftlich würde ich keine Bremsscheiben abdrehen (lassen). Ich weiß nicht wo das Video gemacht wurde, aber Mann- und Maschienenstundensatz ist höher als die BS neu. Wenn es dumm läuft ist das Ding in 20 - 30tkm eh Untermaß
so sieht es aus auf der Welt zum Thema AS th-cam.com/video/N0eE_5GZZiE/w-d-xo.html
Great job! I am amazed how many people comment without having a clue about what is going on. I wish more people will understand not always you need a new part. But then what will 1 billion chinese do? 😉
I can't see the when he machined the surface against the chuck. What tool did he used? Thanks!
I do this all the time but it should be bolted to a face plate using the surface the wheel bolts to, this ensures everything is true and checked with a dial gauge.
If you do this so often that you have a face plate (i had), you dont need a dial gauge. just take 1/10mm off the face plate befor bolt the rotor on an its runs perfectly fine
wolf310ii true, but then you reduce the thickness of your faceplate each time ☹️
@@slghn01 i made the plate thick enough, so i dont need to care about and i needed the plate only a few times per year
wolf310ii interesting point. I might make a sacrificial face that is replaceable. I don’t use mine that much but I don’t want to wear it out lol.
@@slghn01 why they invented soft jaws... Cheap and easy. But, I would suspect that even if he resurfaces these that they still may have hard crystalline spots in the material that will cause vibration
quem esta vendo o trabalho
It's a "old school" I "repair" my brake disc in the same way..and everything is OK
Когда я был молод и было мало средсьв, я просто снял болгаркой и выжимая что есть на спидометре я не заметил разницы, камри 40
Here the turner incorrectly set the disc on the lathe. That it worked out without a miracle. It starts by turning a piece of flange on the lathe and applies clean brake discs to the side which is applied to the hub of the car and supports the tailstock. Disc measured in various places after rolling, it must have the same size (parallel side surfaces). The film on the film only worked well on two sides of the disc with one clamping at the right speed. The disc was rolling and it was always okay.
It will do the trick because the disc is alined with the hub and so the brakepads... but not with the wheel but the wheel has a rubber tyre that will give a bit so you wont notice...
yep old school (Pigs Arse ) lets just throw a rag over the tool post, we use a deflecting tab ,works better than a rag and not as dangerous the tabs are old school and direct the cut off(spoil) downwards away from the operator
Hmm 🧐
accelerate to ~200km/h and brake hard to 50 but dont stop, after that they should be straight. ( tested :D )
I would like to see the finished Disk put on a surface table and a Dial Test Indicator (DTI) ran over it. My guess it would show some run out. Even .003/005 thousands of an inch can affect performance. It needs to be twin tooled with both sides being machined at the same time to ensure that the thickness is maintained all round the diameter. Did my 5 year apprenticeship as a centre lathe turner/machinist in 1985 and have turned hundreds of sets of disc brakes during the time I worked in a company that refurbished them. I have used the method in the video but it depends on the accuracy needed. Twin tool is always the easiest and the most accurate. Also on a lot more older lathes that the one used in the video
Absolutely correct. We made the rookie mistake of not twin tooling and the disc gave wicked pulsation to the brake pedal.
@@CletusLeonardLee I was not trying to be clever in my post just trying to point out the errors - I guess Mr Mcgliver you found them out the hard way
@@paulkimber2468 I understand your intent and fully agree with you.
If he’s chucked over the casting without location on the bolt circle then face not perpendicular
Wow can you cut drilled rotors I put a micrometer on them and they are plenty thick I will pay you
I guess he dont believe in dial indicators..lol
How do you indicate a warped rotor? Lol
It's not even total skill- just mount the rotor in the chuck, bottoming its car mounting surface to the vertical surface on each jaw. Visual check, done. Tolerance on lathework for rotors/drums is not hard to achieve, you're not being held to a thousandth.
@@someotherdude If you reface the bottom and/or if its already fresh, you can easily hold 1 thou. I do it all the time. I have no idea why everyone is on about "dial indicators" like that somehow will make everything ok lol. how about geometry? LOL Dial indicator is just a check, but it isn't the guarantee.
Wait I'm not the one who mentioned dial indicators. Jacob Francis is. But just to be argumentative, dial indicators are pretty critical to have around the machine shop. Anyway, my first response does talk about geometry. You agree with me, whether you realize it or not.
Izbacivaj jos ovakvih klipova
Збс он его на глаз выставил...
Обороты большие
Oh sweet Jesus 🙄
I always asked myself if this method shouldn't be better, if done properly than putting new disks on a car. I think when you do this to disks after a while driving them, they are kind of "hardened" through braking, different weather and other stress. Then you machine them and they should be better than brand new disk which are not hardended. Any professional opinions on this?
Worn discs are too thin to withstand heat expansion so they warp. Once warped should be replaced with new ones. Fixing them this way will only make them more likely to warp again. You should only use this method to remove sufrace rust or uneven surface but you can't go below width specified by manufacturer.