How to Skim a Disc Brake with a DIY Lathe Fixture (resurfacing fix)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- This time we are looking at how to do brake disc re-surfacing on the lathe, to fix run out. This is done for my VW Caddy van, but the same principal would apply to pretty much any disc rotors, and can be done in the home shop that has a decent metal lathe.
The main task is to make a fixture to quickly and easily clamp the disk in place ready for turning. The lathe fixture can be made to exactly reference the lathe ways, so the brake disc can be consistently turned. This way we can surface a rotor with almost no run-out!
Making the brake surfaces parallel and coplanar is critical to prevent steering judder.
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Excellent process used. We live in a 'throw away world' and the art of engineering is slowly dying off, however, as seen in this video the working life of a brake disc can be extended if engineered correctly. The obvious benefits are less cost when compared to a new disc, less waste and the feeling of job satisfaction. It's a pity other people don't appreciate the process and skill used to engineer the discs as shown here. In summary, good explanations of the process used and the most critical point is that the process makes the car safer to drive
Thanks for the encouragement Mike, means a lot 😀
Yes I hate to see brake discs and stuff being trashed just because the have a few rings of rust on them. If you have the skills this is a great thing to do.
It's not "dying off". It's simply adapting to the commercial realities. We've actually never had so much engineering before as we have today.
Discs are ground not turned .. look up why .
ThIs is garbage, new ones cheap and guaranteed 12 mouths went not fitted by a clown.
Loved your idea and video. Made my own arbor like yours and now my brake discs are no longer throw away items. Saving the planet bit by bit.
Great idea. And thanks for mentioning that some disks aren’t made to be resurfaced today. Always google the disk and see if it’s resurfaceable.
Excellent video! If I could add my 0.02c worth. When you're running the lathe tool across the face of the disc you are essentially introducing a 'thread' or spiral like pattern to the surface. When the brake pads are applied they will try to 'screw' into (or out from) the center. This can cause squealing until the the discs burnish in again - sometimes they keep squealing. I've adapted a home made chuck grinder with a 3" sanding disc attached and finish the brake disc face with an omnidirectional pattern - sort of a hone finish. That seems to fix the issue.
Thanks for the video. Way better than just mounting it in on my 3 jaw chuck
a lot of work for an inexpensive replacement park but much respect for your initiative and resourcefulness!
Very cool!! I enjoyed watching the process.
Was also thinking of building an adapter for this , But I found a way to do this on the lathe ,The center hole is clamped on the outside jaws of a 3 jaw chuck and indicated with a dial gauge , resurface the face then turn the large diameter in the rotor "this is for a true surface with the turned rotor face at 90 degrees for clamping in the chuck " Then turn the rotor to complete using the outside jaws and indicate then resurface . Works well for me !
Not a bad process. I just wanted to dial indicate as little as possible - lazy ;)
I’m about to embark on similar, but my lathe is much too small. Fortunately I have a decent sized mill that I’ve just trued up the ways on, so making an arbor to mount in a BT40 facemill arbor will be this week’s job on the lathe.
And for those saying it’s a cheap part, it isn’t if you buy rotors that are made from decent metal, these stop much better even when warped/hot spotted and are worth resurfacing.
I work as a machinist and I see nothing wrong here. Nice job on the resurfacing!!
Thanks for the great video, newbie here, learning.
I clamped mine backwards in a 4-jaw chuck and trued them up with my indicator on the inside mounting surface. I was then able to turn both sides without having to take the disc out and turn it around.
very hard work and very skillfully
I have the old wheel hubs from when I did the rear bearings on my 03 mountaineer. If I had a lathe, they would be perfect as a fixture for turning rotors.
nice idea SwapPart!
Wicked cool British Made Steel Big Blue Shop vice in video! No doubt made of melted down bits of Surplus WW2 Enfield MK3's and recycled bumpers of old Austins! I could tell it was English because of the Embossed printing on the side!Also if you look Very closely the Vice is wearing a small Bowler Hat and is carrying an Umbrella! "Ripper" Video ! Cheers Mate!
Good day Bernie. Thanks for the perceptive comment. As you say the vice is dam cool.. I hadn't noticed the embossed design details as well as you!
Peace, Bongo.
Hah! The first thing I noticed too damn awesome vice... Looks like a tank. I'm jealous.😂.
Nicely done. Ive watched too many people go about doing this all wrong. Loved your fixture and actually referencing off of the correct surface.
Great video and nicely explained
lots of critical comments like all TH-cam video's. I, for one, appreciate your effort and thank you for the video. I intend to do the same thing, it was good to see someone else's approach.
Thanks friend. Good luck!
very nice processing & making adopter plan
Brilliant idea 👌
Well done video! I own a lathe big enough to do this but I think I will just get new rotors. I have resurfaced the brake rotors for my airplane but those were small disks that didn't need any fixture to mount them in the three jaw chuck.
awesome work...
Bloody awesome! Thanks mate. Cheers from Australia!
Enjoyed your video thank you
You remind me of Wil E Coyote. Spends $25,000 on equipment to catch a bird that is worth about $50. Just joking. I am impressed with your equipment and talent. Cheers.
Very informative. Thanks.
If only I had a Lathe!
No disrespect here but I do have a suggestion. I have turned rotors almost the same way you do. You had me till after you faced off the steel tubing. Lol. I also chuck a piece of steel tubing in the lathe and face it off but then, I put the outside of the rotor up to it and run a bull nose live center up to it to hold it in place. And it's also centered up. Then you can take both cuts in the same setup and avoid rotor runout from multiple setups. Hope this helps. 👍
U a genius. Fm
A relatively simple operation made very complicated and not a great result.
From a former brake specialist. GG.
very nice! did not miss a thing!
An excellent video. It shows what can be done by a skilled person who has all the neccessary equipment. Me, I would have to go to Autozone and buy the rotors.
Thanks for watching!
Good video, thank you.
good informative video
Awesome work! I enjoy building stuff out of garbage. We do live in a throwaway world, even the people are throw away nowadays lol 🤣🤣🤣
This is the correct way to do it on a standard lathe if you don't have access to a brake lathe👍
Great video, especially when the cat makes an appearance. When making the final light (finishing) cut, how did you know that the lathes tool slide (compound rest) is 90`deg to the lathe axis?
Hi Peter, thanks for watching friend. I didn't know the compound was square, but I wasn't using that to make the cut, but the lathe's cross slide that should be fairly well fixed at 90 to the bed of the lathe.
Great video 👍👍, thank you
Bravo job very well done. and thanks from a environementalist, my disc always serves me 3 sets of pad.
Hay Martin, Thanks for this. As a fellow environmentalist, I would love to hear any feedback on my latest vid on the diesel to veg oil van conversion
I admire your resourcefulness. Should work fine. Not for everybody, but completely acceptable process.
Thanks for the video very nice. Quick question do you resurface the pads that you are reusing if so how?
I didn't reuse the pads. I had new ones... I would recommend new pads if you do the rotors.
Very interesting channel " subed" and thanks!
Hello sir, your video was interesting to watch and do some learning from! We had a longtime family friend who was a mechanic, machinist and tool maker at his home shop his entire life. If he didn't have the tool, he made it! Unfortunately, he passed away several years ago but the memories of his shop, work and spending time around him will last forever. I'm curious, what is the size of your lathe? I'm getting ready to purchase one for my shop and don't want to spend the big money only to find out that I didn't do my homework and ended up buying a tool that's not large enough to fabricate or repair pieces on. I'd definitely like the lathe to have the ability to turn automotive rotors on but will use it for ATV and ATC parts. Thank you!!
Super videos 👍🏻
This was an awesome and informative video, keep it up!
Thanks so much Noppa Plays!
Great work buddy 👍👍
Thanks 👍
@@FloweringElbow welcome 🙂
Fantastic job sir thanks
Hey thanks Jogo!
Looks like your making this a very complicated job. But what do I know I never turned anything bigger than 10cm on my lathe.
You're result is great and that's what matters.
Maybe I am over complicating my description. Essentially all I am doing though is chucking up a mini face-plate (the fixture) that can be trued to the lathe and then bolting each brake rotor to it.
I use a grinder , while rotors are on vehicle . Not sure if just shitter cast or always had so many inclusions , but fixed about ten over the years. Just lift and block front end , take caliber a off and wire tie for support. Can manually spin and grind or let car idle as you grind high spots. Not saying it's best method, but saved my father in laws 700-880 US by grinding his front rotor . Shop would swap out both and add brakes and time.
I think the job is less precision-critical than you're making it, but that's what machinists do.
Interesting video thanks.
Ahhh, wooly pully sweater. Who does that!?
Great video ...helpful. S/F
Nice job
great job
I have machined several discs and drums with no problems, just bare in mind as others have said about minimum thickness. I made my arbour differently to yours. I welded my mounting flange onto the middle of a fairly stout round bar, then machined the whole thing between centres. That way I could mount the disk, machine one face and just turn the arbour round and machine the other side. Don't suppose it saved any money but it gave me satisfaction. Keep up the good work.
I liked the fixture! The biggest problem I fight on the lathe are harmonics. Seem like a rigid fixture would help alot.
Cut both faces at once(2 tools), that's how an actual brake lathe does it....and it uses a big rubber band around the outside diameter to reduce harmonic vibration......
Good work Thank you.
I think some of the disks have the min thickness stamped on it. it's a good video - good idea.
Thanks Thomas!
The reason people replace their rotors is because it’s only a few dollars more to buy them then it is to resurface them. The two other issues are 1) after resurfacing them they become thinner which in itself can cause warping of the disc 2) the spaces between both surfaces are there to dissipate the heat from the friction of braking. They become rusted and can’t dissipate the heat which can also cause warping of the disc. Usually each rotor is stamped with the minimum thickness they must have to be useable. Better off tossing them and buying a cheap set of new ones if you ask me.
I do like your setup you designed for turning your rotors. Pretty resourceful.
Totally agree. In addition these discs are your only option to stop a car. In case of an emergency brake a force of about 10kN is applied to all 4 discs (1,5t car, 60->0mph) - and usually they are not just thrown away the metal is recycled. I'm not even going to touch how your insurance might think about it.
I miss being a Machinist and performing this type of work. I'm in Info Technology now but eventually will buy me a lather and would like to start making money turning parts for profit
Good luck !
@@FloweringElbow thanks !
dyi? this is on another level
As a machinist in the navy, I often resurfaced both discs and drums for the command vehicles. I made a jig for doing both sides of the disc without having to remove the disc insuring both sides were parallel.
Hi Will. Thanks for sharing... I couldn't quite work out how to do both sides at once using the smallish cross slide.
@@FloweringElbow I had the luck of being able to choose from a 5" lathe all the way up to a 48" gap lathe so don't feel bad if you are limited. Keep up the good work and always think safety. In my experience it's not the operator that gets hurt the most but those around them. I was taught never to remove my hand from the chuck ky until ot was out of the chuck, preferably back in the holder provided for it. On our lathes that was usually a piece of angle with a hole in it bolted somewhere on the bed.
@@willwade1101 thanks for this. A really good safety tip I plan to implement- a simple chuck key holder...
Good one, Its all about straight lines and perfect circles!!
Excellent video! Well explained and shot.
Only wish I had a lathe, I guess I'm stuck trying my rotor with a bastard file 😜
Hi Keith, haha, good luck friend.
We always buffed over the rotor with a surfacing disc on and air tool after it was cut and still spinning to give a semi non directional finish to help seat the new pads.
I like your setup nice job! I want to get a regular lathe, I only have access to the type for doing rotors and drums and its very limited being a shaft mount style and not a jaw vise style although I have rigged up somethings on it to machine besides rotors and drums but it is difficult.
I appreciate your work and your idea to recycle!! But I don't have a $3000 lathe and can afford to buy one to save $25-40 USD for a rotor. :) I LIKED!! the video!
Well done! Now you have a possible extra source of income from turning brake disks! Smart thinking!
Nice video i love it
Good job !
Now where do I find an affordable lathe ...
And where to place it ... ?
What o profitable forward thought! You are a genius as the creator of this video!
A face plate would be a lot quicker and useful for lots of other jobs .Worth looking out for one to fit your lathe if you don't already own one.
I was trying to figure out what was the problem you just now sorted the problem out for me thank you very much for your important video I'm really impressed I'll be on the case this weekend to grind my
Increíble muy buen aditamento
I was just on the local sale listings looking at lathes, I thought jeepers I'm gonna have to buy a lathe, make an adapter, nope, better head to TH-cam. Perfect a DIY, haha still gotta buy a lathe and make an adapter! I was waiting for you to surface it in the back yard on an old axle spun up with a clapped out scooter. Anything specific I should look for in a lathe to do this specifically?
Good day Kris. If you want to do this specifically you will need a lathe with enough 'swing' (room between the ways and the spindle centre). But really there are tons of other things to look for in a lathe - check for play everywhere ;)
Good luck :D
Holy cow! That is a lot of time and effort to resurface your rotors!
Most garages or auto parts stores will resurface your rotors for a nominal fee. However, as a former mechanic, we generally would replace rotors with the pads because they are relatively inexpensive and helps insure the brake job won't come back on you because of a pulsation in the brake pedal. Besides, we recycled all of our scrap metals.
Dear Friend,
I have done something similar to this that you show but only to remove heavy rust scale, however, To give good service life the surface must be made smooth like a ground surface. The surface you leave will not stop well and tear- up the linings/pads and shorten the service life.
Good job! Not sure if it’s been mentioned elsewhere but it may prove of value to mark/spray a thin layer of say red paint on the low-point (or even over the entire surface of the disc if the low-points and concentrical over the entire surface). That way (as you are skimming more and more across the entire surface of the disc with each pass) it should serve as a visual indicator as the paint mark will progressively disappear. You should be able to see the paint even when the disc is rotating at speed; when you have skimmed low enough to approach the low-point by then the paint would have almost disappeared completely. At that stage you will then have to rely on your micrometer to measure how close you are to being done. In effect it should speed up the beginning part of the skimming process with less risk of accidentally over-skimming between measurements. I hope this proves of value.
Good job, good video. First Class Fitter & Turner here, so I know a good engineering job when I see it :)
What a legend.
I used to do these on a rotary surface grinder.
I used to turn brake rotors and drums when I was a kid at my dads auto repair shop. They just don’t make them like they used to. Pads have become more reliable with so many different types, but it’s so much cheaper to just buy new rotors and pads no Adams for what shops charge to turn them.
Nice tutorial - Adnd I am particularly glad to see you had proper guidance under the shop supervisor!!! You may want to cover the ways of the lathe with cloths prior to doing this as the cast rion, as you mentioned, is not good for them!!!
Keep up the great videos!
PS I don't care where your from black cats are good luck!!!
Haha. Thanks Mr Clickbang!
think the vacuum he hooked up did
just fine catching the chips?
Well done very good video but only one think it be really nice if I could see how much is of on the Dial Test Indicator .
Fantastic 👍👍👍👍👍
Impressive skils, but really worth it for the average DIYer? Rube goldberg machine comes to mind.
Side note, a lot of disc's have the min thk printed somewhere on the disc
Did it work ok? Did you get any brake pedal movement from runout? I like the fixture 👍
Thanks Benjamin , have been running for a good 2000miles now and zero discernible runout - brakes are smooth as, so feel pleased really. :)
you dont ask stupid things, you ask for the mesurement of the run out.
stop thinking
I am retired and I have time but little money. I am fortunate to have a 16" lathe with a large four jaw chuck and have successfully resurfaced my brake rotors many times. Initially, I set up the rotor by holding it in my chuck and indicating off the inside face of the rotor (the face that clamps to the wheel hub); I then machine everything parallel to this. I like your idea better. Once the jig is made up, it would be much faster to set up and get the job done.
I do have a question. When you face off the the rotor hub before you flip it around and clamp it, there will be a raised area that you can't machine because the clamping disk is in the way. The raised area will prevent the machined face from touching the jig when you flip it. I am missing something, right? Did you machine the jig to except the unmachined raised area? I hope I am being clear.
Thanks for sharing.
Peter, thanks for the comment. I think I get the question... The outer nut and dist of the fixture, that clamps the brake rotor on, is onto an indented surface anyway. That is to say, that surface that is covered up, and therefore cant be skimmed, doesn't actually make contact, and is slightly inset - at least on my disk brakes...
As you say, once setup, you can actually do four disks quite quickly. Loads quicker than dialing with a four jaw chuck each time you flip it.
Cheers, Bongo.
Most brake discs rotors have the minimum thickness cast into them in a area that is not important. Sometimes very hard to find depending on the amount of rust they have. Otherwise like you said, check with automotive dealer. Good job.
Been watch a bunch of your videos and enjoying them very much. Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Willy
Most of the time it is cast on the outside edge of the disc
Iy seems every usefull vid i watch involves a lathe...i think i see a lathe in my near future.
After considering many projects over the past couple of years a lathe would definitely suit me better than a mill. Just keep on the local machinery for sale ads in your state and you can find some deals sometimes. Remember you'll spend a good bit on tooling as well so look for a combo deal.
Nice sir
Parabéns pela iniciativa, aqui no Brasil nos recuperamos discos de freios, você poderia tornear o tubo e prender o disco com uma barra roscada passando através do buraco do torno, faceando o disco de ambos os lados sem virar-la.
Obrigado pelo comentário :D
Hello friend, is it safe with an armored Yogen? Is it better for us to exchange the disc?
I made something similar to do my dully rotors and worked well good job sir
This is very logical and straightforward. I have a crazy suggestion. Do you think you could make a 3D printed fixture to spin the rotor and then do the cleaning with a rigidly mounted but lightly cutting angle grinder?
Cool idea! I guess consideration would be needed to make the 3d print rigid enough...
Why not keep the disc on the axle and use that to turn it?
Yes it's good to see a simple way to get a 2nd run on a pair of discs fine if there expensive to buy new too
Now, all I need is a metal lathe. And a welder.
After machining the first part you could have turned the other side with a left hand side tool with out turning the disc and like that you will be 100% sure the faces are parallel thats how I do it never had any problems!!!!
Good afternoon John. Thanks for this. I have a question though, do you have a very large capacity lathe? For me the carriage won't fit past the brake rotor as it only just fits on without touching the ways...
Don't know if it'll be useful, but it's good learning for me
Wow, nach dem drehen zeigt deine Messuhr 0 planschlag! Respekt!!!
Hey. I'm a noob, but I'm curious to find out why you did not think it was necessary to resurface the internal hat surface, that which makes contact with the hub. Thanks!
Hi -- . It was some time ago now, but I believe I was using that as the master reference surface, I was cutting all other faces to...
Hope that helps, Bongo.
Liked the video, tell the people that min. dimensions matter & they are usualy stamped or cast onto the disc.
Appreciate the skill and ingenuity involved; however, if you need to pay a mechanic to do this, the time involved will cost far more than buying replacement rotors. It’s simple economics based on the cost of labor.
Hi Mike, I agree with you. Unless you both enjoy the process and can do it your self, it doesn't make economic sense.
FloweringElbow But it sure looks like fun! Wish I had a shop like yours 👍
Thanks Mike. Your not wrong :D
You can replace the bolt by pushing a plate against the disc with a live center. Only need to turn the register diameter and face, I use old engine pistons for that. If you mark the orientation, it can even be rechucked in a 3 jaw chuck and still run true enough.