I Bet You Didn't Know You Could Do This With a Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2017
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Watch to the end. You will see that it did work.
This is something anyone with a metal lathe can do in their home shop. Here I experiment with friction welding two sections of chrome moly tubing on a 13" metal lathe. The first couple attempts weren't successful, but the third attempt worked out well. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I see guys friction weld HSS drills in steel plate all the time. :-)
It happens :)
Hahaha!
Lmao
ROFLMAO
I've friction welded an inserted drill lmaooo
Hi, last attempt looked satisfactory considering it was performed on a lathe, well done. Excellent on cross section.
As a Friction Weld engineer and Metallurgist for 20 years for one of the world's top three Friction Welding companies hear in the UK, trying a reduced cross sectional area is the correct approach.
For "Direct Drive Friction Welding" Based on 1/2 " (12.7 mm) OD X 3/8" (9.5 mm) ID, for a low carbon steel, we would use the following parameters: RPM - 3000 to 6000, rotating axial force of 800 pounds, forging force of 1600 pounds. Displacement during frictioning 0.140". Total length loss approximately 0.190".
You are correct in that the rotation should stop quickly, but as long as you maintain the axial force, or increase it during deceleration, and maintain the forging force for 3 or more seconds to consolidate the bond,then you will have a successful weldment.
Calculations are based on a surface speed of between 400 to 800 ft/Mon, forces of 4.5 and 9 Tons per square inch, and burn-off of 0.140".for solid bar reduce RPM by 40 to 50%.
Having seen videos of industrial friction welding of axels. Stopping the rotation quickly doesn't have to happen all that quickly. As long as the pressure is maintained meaning heat is maintained.
One question though. Is it not important to keep oxygen away from the weld while is hot?
Excellent information. Thank you commenting on this!
I know that this is done, but I don't understand why the molten steel isn't just flying off due to centrifugal force, or creating a twisted/ candy cane effect at the joint?
gheumann, friction welding, or correctly friction bonding, the material/materials do not melt. The material being displaced is in a plastic state, the same as when forging, it is also called forge welding.
It is a solid state bond. Have a look at the Eidison Welding Institute for clarification.
Would magnetically aligning the particles in molten metal influence/increase it strength?
Off topic, I have seen how they can give estimates on magma rock by looking at the magnetic alignment as it is aligned while it is molten and stays that way when it sets. The plate movements and geological influences then move the rock around and you can get info regarding when the volcano was active.
Happy weldmenting.
Spinning tail stock holder with a brake. Hold the brake on until the weld starts, then let it spin - won't matter how fast you can turn off the lathe.
Exactly my thoughts
This was my thought too. Release tailstock chuck to rotate simultaneous to shutting of motor.
BTW, DON'T try this without cleaning up the oil in your chip tray. Grease fires are not fun.
My suggestion would be NOT to start testing the strength of the weld till it cools naturally to near room temperature. I can't speak for 4130, but carbon steels (e.g., 1030) are more brittle in a temperature range somewhere between room temperature and incandescent. You should avoid stressing the joint in this temperature region.
+1 @@bf2823 Probably also want to shield your ways in case you overcook the workpiece and start slinging molten hard-stuff on them.
@@bf2823 if he lightly taps the weld on cooling it will strengthen the metal as it reduces stresses inside tho that is not what he did
@Ed G cold start friction weld is best weld
will be the strongest spot if done right
if you cool it fast you make it a brittle point potentially. unless u temper after but then u may as well forge a new one and not deal with welding.
Thanks for cutting it half to show how good weld it was. That was super interesting :)
Thanks!
Good idea to mill the piece to show the weld through. 👍
Thanks!
Back in '72' when I was in High School, we had a metal shop that would be an envy to any Machine shop. About 12 good size lathes, 4 or 5 milling machines, surface grinder, a large shaper, drill presses, a tool room, a small foundry and more I can't remember. One of the students wanted a long shaft drill bit, seems like it was about 3/4". He set it all up in a large lathe and performed the friction weld operation.
I'll be darned if I can remember the outcome. :-) I just wanted to tell you about my HS machine shop. The only thing my kids had in HS were computers, not even a hand drill.
yup.... the "educators" decided that kids shouldn't learn about the trades and "everyone" has to go to college. Took out most of the HS shop classes. A shame and we are paying the price for it now with a critical shortage of a skilled trade workforce.
But at least we won't run out of useless, talentless, cupcakes.
Some of the schools around here are responding by getting back into tech training much more than when I was in school. They have equipment now I would've only dreamed of.
Lamont Cranston ..not sure if you are from the USA or UK , I'm from the UK at school till 1981 .. at school we had a cracking metal work set up, forging, lathes, milling machines, grinding machines and teachers that could tell you how to make anything in metal the knowledge on the Tyne was unsurpassed . I went in to engineering 30 years ago ….now a gym instructor … now most people cant turn a nut the right way .I still keep it alive mend my car and making stupid things lol .... best video ever... building of the Queen Elizabeth in the 1960s on Clyde Bank using a rolling mill from the 1880..we were sold down the river
Yeah that's my era too. Back when we raise pigs, calves, and chickens in 4H. We didn't have much of a metal shop for say, we had AG class where we actually done welding Drilling grinding just general repair we didn't have a lot of good tools like Milling machines we had 1 half-ass lathe and a pretty decent welder. But you were talkin about a county that didn't have 5,000 people in it! We were very rural. Hell we had enough you could learn to burn your eyes with a welder, cut yourself , poke holes in you some way the other. Hell now kids would freak out if you put them in somewhere like that away from their friggin video games.
You are correct. I did not know you could do that with a lathe! Thanks for posting this and sharing the cut-away.
Thanks for your comment!
LOL Its 12:11AM and I was about to log off, let the dog out(in which I go though my shop to do) and head to bed. Your comment at the end was spot on. altough Ive thought about doing this on both my knee mill and lathe. I just havent done it yet. Now I'll prob get in my shop early tomorrow to try it out.... after sweeping away all the sawdust on my equipment. XD
A couple of points. First, as you're using a high carbon steel, you will have a hard and brittle joint. It wasn't quenched, but it's a small enough part, mounted in a giant steel & cast iron heatsink (the lathe), so it will cool very quickly. It would have been interesting to look at the failed welds with a microscope after etching to see the microstructure and see if you could discern the failure mode. Second, friction welding is a wonderful process for joining dissimilar metals, even on a lathe. Google an academic paper "Analysis of friction welding in conventional lathe machine" by B.Parandhaman et al, 2018 about joining aluminium and mild steel on a lathe about the same size as yours. Sorry, if I include an actual link then TH-cam deletes my comment.
Thanks. I might try the dissimilar metal experiment in the lathe.
I worked at a heavy wall drill pipe manufacture in Houston when I was kid and was amazed at friction welding, one the metalurligist gave me a cross section of a weld that they etched for testing. I couldn't believe there was a perfect straight line where the two materials met but no mixing of the two, it's hard to believe that this can hold an entire string of drilling tools!
Me: "Yea i quite like video games and computers."
TH-cam: "Hey we heard you like computers and video games. Here's some welding videos."
Me too!
Yeah, but you _did_ watch that one video about mending fence posts, so naturally a welding video is what you need next.
Somewhere along the line it may have decided you have seen most computing videos so Computing AND electricity may be your interests. Works for me. I love fixing computers, welding, physics etc so maybe they assume you are like others who watch computer videos. You also like electricity which welding is a product of etc etc
I must be altering the algorithm with my own watch pattern. I've been into videogames forever and and recently I'm doing welding and machining.
Schwin Bicycle resistive welded cast iron front wheel fork which was iron to a steel pipe
"at the speeds i'm running that laythe would be kind of terrifying".
for some reason the understatement of this is hilarious
And I thought that the lathe by itself was terrifying!
I was demonstrating this back in 1972 in shop class at High school!
videos I've seen of friction welding they push the parts together for a greater distance and get way more spread in the softened material.... so push harder and push for longer, let that soft zone spread... they probably get it a fair bit hotter too.
I always push harder, push longer and I keep the friction so it is as hot as a firecracker. I also try to keep the lubrication coming as much as possible. And then when you think it cannot get any harder and faster and you think man what a weld, boom... And then that long hard piece of metal just falls out of the lathe just like lead wire. That's the way it always happens. I think my problem is too large of equipment and too larger stock. But I know there's a lot of people out there that don't have heavy-duty equipment and the proper stock. what the hell was we talking about? I got to go call my girlfriend!
Your wife said the same thing mate.
I like seeing a lathe that get use and is not kept immaculatly clean. Enjoyed the video.
Thanks
Caterpillar Tractor developed this in the early 70s (to my best knowledge) to weld the piston shafts to the knuckles on their hydraulic cylinders. I was a metal shop teacher at the time (1971 to 1975) at the Central Bucks School District in Bucks County, PA. We duplicated it on a 12" Rockwell lathe. The kids got a big kick out of it. I tried, to the best of my ability, to duplicate current industrial practices in the shop. When I left to go into industry in 1975, the shop went dormant and was never used again. We did the experiment in 1973 or 1974.
That's very interesting to know. I like to say, if you want a new idea, read an old book.
You might want to consider a face shield in case molten metal is slung off the weld. Very good demo. We did this when I was in High School Machine Shop, 46 years ago.
Thank you.
When I saw metal spinning and forming, that blew my mind. Especially how accurate they can make it for something that looks more of an art and less of a science.
It is pretty cool.
I used to make high pressure test fitting for a company that makes oxygen and other gas bottles, boggled me watching them spin and form thick pressure vessels like that.
I'm just getting into machining and I gotta say, this is hands down one of the coolest tricks on the lathe I have seen so far, bravo sir...bravo👏👏👏
The inside view is so satisfying to see how uniform the weld is with no seam. Great video.
i learned how to friction weld when I was in High school. Good to know.
www.yaplakal.com/forum23/topic2193714.html death meat
Great video, never knew you could friction weld on a lathe set up, thought you could only do that with massive pressures and speeds.
Thanks :)
Suzy Siviter qass
Very cool. I've only read/heard about the process so seeing it done in a small shop on a lathe was interesting.thanks for sharing.
I'm no metallurgist, just a 30+ year machinist who has studied these kind of things. I think it's an awesome process, honestly, and a great effort on that little lathe my man!
It's incredible that you can take 4130, considered a low/medium carbon low alloyed steel and go from around 17/20 HrC up to almost 50 HrC without a quench.
Also, from what I understand about friction welding is the post upset (of around .05-.100 when done correctly, I believe) force left holding the joint together when cooling is a necessary step. Could be wrong, of course, but that would be the only thing that I didn't notice you do in the video that I see other videos show. At any rate, great vid and great experiment. Subbed!
Thanks for subbing! I noticed the post upset in other videos too. I couldn't really do that with my lathe without ripping the carriage hand wheel gear out. It felt like I got maybe around .050 upset as the lathe was stopping. The material got really soft, and you could just feed the material into itself. I also have a 20" inch lathe I want to try this on.
Awesome, I think that would be fun too on the bigger lathe, so long as it's 'nimble' enough to get in higher RPM ranges ... Honestly, even after watching a few more vids after yours, I think you've got one of the better friction welds outside of an industrial setting, nicely done my man. I look forward to seeing another shot, if there is one, and if not ... Then whatever else you come up with will likely be great. Take care.
Hey, Arnold,I have been involved in this process welding shafts and turbine wheels together. The turbine wheel had a i.d. with a groove inside, groove about .300 wide. So roughly I.d. about .75, about .600 deep with a groove I.d about .85, groove width about .25 and the groove centered in the i.d. of the turbine wheel. The .75 i.d had a shoulder and then a drill point dia about .50 to .60.The shaft that went inside was about .740 dia, the shaft and wheel were brought together until cherry red as the shaft melted and filled the groove and then produced a upset raised area of material on the 2 outside diameters about .050-.100 wide then machine was shut down instantly, rpm was about 1500.
Interesting nitty gritty from someone who has been there. I read about the process years ago for turbines, though not in that detail. To join them strongly and accurately and withstand forces at 120,000 rpm is quite an accomplishment.
excellent! ... I took all my inch long scrap pieces of tubing and made one 10 foot long tube from them and it only took 9 days and saved me $5.38!
You're my hero.
Neat video. I love experimental processes and the cut away is sweet. Thanks for your time and thoughts.
Thank you for your comments.
We used to friction weld bananas together in the 60’s but its impossible to get straight ones nowadays so we tend to use cucumbers instead!
Btw cool vid im gonna try this on the lathe at work!
Excellent.
1:44
Engage yer safety-squints!
That's what it always looks like when I'm trying to machine something...!
There's nothing like a good dull insert.
That is pretty awesome. I was considering putting a disk break on the back of mine to stop it faster but it looks like this will do the trick.
Thanks for the upload.
Ok, you got it to work... Looks like it worked quite nicely.
Love that you milled a cross section, looks pretty good.. now, etch it, see just how much is "weld", if it will show etched... I would think it should show.
Thanks. I might try the etching.
Arnold's Design , would be interesting to see if it works the same as it does for arc welding 😎
many years ago i needed a long drill, so one of the machinest added a 18 in. rod to the drill an did this same trick i still have the drill, it really works. thank for the reminder
Thanks for your comments!
Good way to get it welded perfectly straight
Cuz its solid yeah
Thats crazy
Pretty interesting, I had a clue how it was done but never saw the real thing
Thanks. Glad you found it interesting.
Arnold's Design nice job, I actually wondered if anyone had managed to make decent friction weld in a home shop.....seems you have so kudos to you. I think I will like your channel, so I am subscribing, best wishes....great fun to watch.
Thanks. I'll try to keep it interesting.
Thanks for showing the cross-section, that was the cherry on the cake!
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for the video. I didn't know this was possible.
Very Cool.......I'll wait till tomorrow to try it lol
Thanks!
You're like a well mannered AvE, i like your channel my friend.
Thank you for saying so :)
Perhaps instead of instantly stopping the chuck, the same effect could happen if the stationary piece was controllably released to follow its newly bonded counterpart. Like undoing the jacobs chuck in the tail stock just enough for it to spin freely before turning off the lathe.
That was really cool friction welding
Thanks
I tried this many years ago, on a 13" Clausing with a 6-jaw.
@@user-ck6gi8fy5w holy shit , i am so happy i am a CNC Miling Machinist
Nice video and interesting information.
I've done the same process just for fun 😆
Thanks! Curious people do interesting things.
First year apprentice stuff, Welding drills into the job etc...oh the joys ...
Definitely cool, thanks for doing that
Don't know how I ended up here, I've never ever used a lathe, only welded once but I can appreciate a man's skill set. Great video but now I want a lathe, tools, etc.....
Cool. If you're into making stuff at all, having a metal lathe is awesome. You can even use if for wood turning.
Charles Du Max it was just watching videos like these that got me to buy my own tools at age 12, and so car, I have always had fun building😂
Charles Du Max you stumbled into very rewarding experience if you get yourself a lathe. I say go for it it's fun and you will surprise yourself. If you like to be perfect. The tolerance is so close you make it or you bust.
Thanks for sharing this
You're welcome. Thanks for your comment.
Wow, first time I have seen this, pretty cool, thanks for sharing,
Thank you!
Awesome little vid and experiment. Very enjoyable to watch.
Thanks :)
First of all I thought you did an excellent job. Your approached it in a systematic manner making logical improvements until success. Also excellent idea to mill a cross section. Question, can this be done with nonferous metals and alloys such as brass, copper, and aluminum. With aluminum you would likely have to shield the point of friction in a CO2, or helium mixture. In the home environment I would think one could use a MIG or TIG gun without the electrode or wire, or detach the low pressure gas line going into the welder and have it blowing over the weld area. That would be a fun experiment? You could even try titanium with Argon?
I understand you can weld dissimilar metals this way. I have a mig torch. I could run my aluminum gas mix on it and see.
You might be able to run the gas through the end piece with a tube since it is stabilized to the tool holder. That way it would travel through the tube right into the chuck.
My guess would be 'no inert gas required' regardless of the metal. In arc welding, the inert gas is needed to exclude oxygen from the weld area and so prevent oxidation of the molten metals. With spin welding, the process itself excludes oxygen from the joint surfaces. Even better is that oozing of material in the weld zone to the exterior of the joint ensures that the joint surfaces are clean and free of any contaminants. Without a shielding gas the outer surfaces would oxidise but this would not matter as the joint itself is unaffected.....and the outer surfaces would usually be machined off after.
I’m quite sure this was on the list of one of the things not to do when I was an apprentice.
Excellent video. This would be good in the home shop for perfect alignment of small diameter and or thin wall tubes as welding them can be tricky especially if you want the join to be almost invisible when your finished. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
I appreciate what you do, so I'll leave this comment for support.
Thanks :)
You could also etch the cut piece, might be cool to see what the etched area shows.
What is used in etching?
www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/macro-etch.html
Might check this out good info
Interesting video. I have those chemicals here to etch. Thanks for finding and posting it.
Nice job, I use to bond POLYETHYLENE pipe together. 500* square||block iron . Be surprised at strength of joint. I've hit it with 2lb hammer, would not come apart.Geo Thermal pipe installations since 1984.
Thanks. Interesting technique and career, getting heat out of the earth.
I did that too!. Made thousands of fusion joints with Medium Density Polyethylene. Mostly Saddle and socket fusion.
Excellent and well described demonstration, Thank You.
Thanks :)
I like your experimental work. and it works pretty well : )
Thanks :)
lol. it use holder with brake system for doing friction welding. but nice too try.
Dude... You just taught me a new trick!
Excellent!
Pretty damn cool. thanks for sharing. I had read about friction welding but it is interesting to see it happen.
Thanks!
Well here it is after midnight and I’m going outback to my shop and trying this!😂😂
Haha, cool.
that's the way way oilfield drill pipe is made the tool joints are made separate from the tube. then the tool joints are friction welded to the tube, then annealed and re heat treated then the ribbon is cut off inside and out and then EMI inspected.
Interesting
Thats what i do for a living. Its also referred to as inertia welding. I dont make oilfield pipe though. We do blast hole pipe mostly and water well stuff and some natural gas. We make just about everything other than the rig itself.
we did friction weld on rock mining drill steel. up to 2 inch diameter
Cool
Friction stir welding is the new craze in the automotive world both steel and aluminum
Great video mate 👍
Are you the guy that keeps sending me emails about the secret to extending my shaft?
Extend tube max distance in lathe , other tube in drill chuck, same length as in lathe chuck, spin, when welded, release with key the tail stock drill chuck.!!
will cool more slowly and be stronger.!!
Really good video ! The information is good
Fascinating. I have never seen this done before. Many thanks
Thanks :)
First thing that came to my mind was to shield this with Argon from a tig torch while the metal is fusing... 🤔
Does not seem to be necessary. Can't say I know anything about the subject, but friction welding always seem to be done in plain air. Guess the metal melts and push away any air pockets from the area getting welded.
It's not required. You're not adding material and forming oxides in pockets. Oxygen is no where near the welding phase of the material, the outer deformation layer is well away from the material being welded.
"I lost my allen wrench" story of my life
@eric duffy put it back in the tool box and not in the backyard maybe you can work something metal then
Another Machinist channel to keep an eye on. Cool stuff man.
Thanks. I'm glad you like it.
Same method as they join turbine heads to shafts on turbochargers - thanks for the cross section - gives alot more info on the weld structure - nicely done!
Flooded with an argon helium mixture and Purge the tube gas all the way around it and it'll be solid
Confess I'd never thought of doing this. I was going to make up a plate with stand-offs, intended screwing -- maybe I'll try this first. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks. It's worth a try.
Very interesting, well done.
8:32 Yikes, that motor is in a bind, keeping pressure on the weld point and the reduced material was the key.
That is the sketchiest way to light a dart I've ever seen
For a second I thought you said fart. That that WOULD be sketchy! Its youtube, no doubt someone may actually try that one day...!
I did this 25 years ago as a young engineer. Great fun on the night shift.
I bet.
Great job and video!
Thank you :)
Just prior to stopping, break the piece loose in the tool holder and then shut down; not doing this is probably fracturing the weld.
You can stop any AC motor super fast by plugging it with half-wave DC.
@@couterei.1953 No it won't. It's one of the most common methods of dynamic braking, for AC motors.
Interesting I will try it!
Thanks!
I know it’s a simple concept, but I found this fascinating!!
Thank you :)
Lining up could not be simpler mate
1 Place the outer section in the chuck weld face to chuck and then offer up the tool holder and clamp the piece.
2 Then undo the chuck and it should stay in good alignment, then withdraw the tool post
3 Place the second piece in the Chuck as per normal
This way the 2 pieces should maintain the correct orientation with each other, I have done things very similar in my Lathe BUT it has an emergency stop and brake , so very effective and not imparting a crystalline structure from a slow stop.
Good ideas.
Try the chuck then release the part in the tail stock chuck and let it spin..
That's what I was thinking :)
I thought that would be a good idea too. I had actually tried that but edited it out because I figured internet safety trolls would come crawling out of the woodwork at some point. What happened was there wasn't enough strength while hot to keep the pieces stuck together while spinning. Also, it was really hairy having a partially bonded piece of yellow hot steel spinning at 2000 rpm right next to my hand while I loosened the drill chuck. I only tried it once and said that was enough fun.
Arnold's Design
What you need is a spring loaded dead centre that can be unlocked to live.
If you were blacksmith welding, you would use some borax as flux. If you do this again, you could try dropping some flux on the joint after it’s welding hot, and just before finally jamming the parts together. I don’t know if it would help make a stronger weld, this was just a thought as I watched your video. Good job. 😎👍
Snap just what I was going to say
managed to learn how to do this in college 1978, was the coolest process,
ues dissimilar metal , and passed the bend and tension tests
and at around the 10:00 mark I see your trial and error paid off ... looks looks like ya did a good job getting it to make a strong bond!
and thanks for doing the cutting to do a cross section showing us how well the two pieces did or didn't bond
What if we do rapid quenching for the weld area by pouring cold water when the weld is red hot?
That will make the weld stronger right?
It probably would. Air and oil quenching is most common, though some steels are designed for water quenching. 4130, which is what I used in this video, will harden in the area of the weld even with air cooling. It is common when using this type of tubing for aircraft frames, to go back and anneal joints with a torch so they are not brittle.
I see. May be you should mess with quenching sometime ;)
The proper abuse of a lathe :)
Ain't that the truth.
If a lathe can't handle that then it ain't a proper lathe.
Says the metal butcher... LOL
Jeez get a clue guy, this is a metal lathe maybe small but still its built to support this kinds of loads.
The other side have bearings, they arn't red.
100% correct would go out to the shed and try this if my weigh it’s got up today spades ha ha Ha! Awesome job, subscribed
Excellent video!
Thanks!
Damn, thats pretty good! Thx from Soviet Union workers collective, blyat'!
Thanks!
4130 and 4140 are not "high carbon steels". These are medium carbon steels and at the low end of that range. High carbon steels are not very weldable.
You are correct. .3 and .4 percent carbon steels aren't high carbon.
Arnold's Design ....Oooooh! That is a strong indicator of someone worth listening to. Hearing correction without involving ego, admitting error and fixing the problem without breaking stride to justify accuse or excuse, suggests you know a thing or two about a thing or two.
I'm glad I stumbled upon your videos.
I pretty much call it like a see it, whether I'm right or wrong. Thank you for your comments.
Ben Griffin - so *_way_* off topic (of the video) but semi-relevant to your comment... Japanese sword makers, after taking the _tamahagene_ (iron sand bloomery steel) and beating it into larger welded pieces will flatten them into _”sheets”..._ they then place the _”sheets”_ (in quotes as they’re not super thin) so they’re supported only on the ends. When they whack it with a hammer, if it bends that’s the low-carbon steel for the sides and back of blade and if it breaks that the high-carbon steel for the edge (the cutting edge that is). So if you’re ever stuck somewhere with nothing but a forge, now you know how the Japanese bladesmiths do :)
Definitely interesting. Thanks.
www.yaplakal.com/forum23/topic2193714.html death
Worked in a shop for 15yrs. Wish I had videos of some of the ppl I tried to train on mill and lathe and the stuff they tore up
Release the Drill Chuck when its glowing orange....easy.
I tried that. It won't weld. You need post pressure for it to weld.
Go with a chuck that is like a live center where it is free to spin then clamp it so it stays put then release the clamp on the live chuck and ply pressure, this way it will stay safely attached to the live chuck but can spin and you can apply pressure...
AVE, YOU WATCHIN THIS.?
Jay Dirt
Fucking mint!
Ha! I done this today at work!👍🏻👍🏻
Many years ago I was a Schwinn bicycle dealer. When I went through my factory training, we were taught about some of the fabrication techniques used in the components. The front forks and one piece cranks were made by a company called Ashtabula, probably made in the city by the same name in Ohio. The forks were friction welded, the head tube to the cast or forged forks. I'm sure other items in the industry are made this way, don't know of them though. Jim
Try using flux next time you will get a stonger weld
I would try borax and see if this helped the weld area. Looks like a good weld in the cross section.