How to get PERFECT PETG prints
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- I spend the last two weeks printing non-stop to get near perfect PETG settings on my Adventurer 4 and printing a few excellent Benchy's. I will share with you my process for tuning PETG and my final settings.
🇺🇸 USA 3D Printing Gear
My Adventurer 4 3D Printer: amzn.to/3spEYyd
Favourite TPU: amzn.to/3IYNUkG
Hatchbox PETG: amzn.to/3uKWGz1
Favourite PLA: amzn.to/3opsOnC
Calipers: amzn.to/3LqpHWD
Copper Shim: amzn.to/3nFnA6R
🇨🇦 Canada 3D Printing Gear
My Adventurer 4 3D Printer: amzn.to/3HDnsMB
Hatchbox PETG: amzn.to/3J9hvYA
Favourite Cheaper PETG: amzn.to/35N1CIZ
Favourite TPU: amzn.to/3qx9S7U
Favourite PLA: amzn.to/3L8di9z
Calipers: amzn.to/3GWWDDv
Copper Shims: amzn.to/33KyhOn
Intro 0:00
Experiment Background 0:50
Temperature Tuning 2:55
Retraction Tuning 4:20
Coasting Tuning 4:43
Speed Tuning 5:56
Why I Changed Slicers 6:33
Benchy Printing Time 7:38
Testing Other PETG Brands 9:59
Weird Superslicer Quirk 12:07
Switching Slicers Again! 14:15
I Did Something Crazy 14:54
Tips and Summary 17:12
Scrolling Through My Settings 18:25
Hi, my name is Daniel and I like to make stuff. My journey on TH-cam began with creating things around the home with my 3D printer. I'm mainly focused on making functional items because I am relatively cheap and don't like to buy overpriced goods. Also, making my own things means that I can customize the item to my specific need. I hope that my channel inspires you to Just Make It!
I appreciate the work you put into this. Very concise presentation of complex issues and your voice is comfortable to listen to. I just got my first Ender Neo and ran a roll of PLA and a half roll of PetG through it so far working on a prototype of an invention. Thanks.
Thought I'd leave a message here because of how helpful your PETG videos have been. I've been printing with PETG for a couple of years now and have never had particularly wonderful prints, always with stringing and blobs despite drying filament (and having dry boxes). After following the same steps you had taken I'm now printing beautiful PETG prints with only extremely thin stringing (like spiderweb thin) which is passable for me personally as that's pretty easy to remove with a heat gun. Thank you for the videos!! You rock!!
Thanks for this video Daniel. I appreciate how you broke the problem down to individual variables and optimized each.
Just to summarizing for me:
Bed temp: 85 °C
Final good temperature: 240 °C
Final good retraction: 0.2-0.5 mm
Pre/After retraction: 0.2 mm (maybe)
Max detail speed: 20 mm
Awesome video. Never saw anyone walk us through the entire struggle. This is very helpful thank you
Thank you! You're the first person i've seen who really elaborates on experiments rather than giving basic advices.
Will try some of that on my Dreamer. Unfortunately, Dreamers have only one cooling choice: 100% or none (as well as several other lacks) but your video is enough to get started.
Also, never heard of Superslicer, shall give it a go.
wow, what a crusade to get that working!! Congrats on the dedication, impressive
I've had PETG get wet on me in a single (rainy) day.
Ended up getting a drybox, which has helped immensely.
I have been trying to learn PETG (kinda hard not to play with all the different material options hahahahah)
I've been having grief with flashprint and I might have to give superslicer a shot
Between this and your other videos, your advice has been so helpful setting up my profiles properly
Especially with PETG - but across the board great work man
So glad the algorithm recommended you - underrated as hell
Thanks for sharing, great info. I'm going to try PETG for the first time today
Hi daniel, I've commented on another video of yours but just wanted to reiterate the content you're producing for the adventurer 4 is second to none.
Ordering a second one is a pretty extreme form of printer tuning lol
Thanks for the informative video. I've been 3D printing since we had to build our own 3D printers because they weren't consumer items, but I've only recently started to print in PETG. As the video was wrapping up I was heading to the comments section to suggest that you put your optimized settings in the video description but that's where the video showed the slicer settings across many screens so we can pause the video and see all of the slicer settings.
Thanks you solve som of my problems the temp was a BIG improvement
Petg is very sensitive to ambient air temp in around the fan intake. Fan speed should be reduced in colder rooms. Also the when printing higher prints off the hot build plate the intake air gets colder so the cooling increases at the same fan speed. So getting a warm stable air temp around the printer is a good starting point.
That was a huge amount of work .. Thank You for sharing .. Cheers :)
I’ve printed two things with black overture filament and they are mint on pla settings
😊😊😊
Awesome video,
Will try and get your settings written down somehow and test them out :)
I just noticed the same issue with the leadscrew as you had on your first ADV4. Thats just annoying that they made that kind of error (design flaw). :D
love your channel keep up the good videos!
The key to printing PETG is to get your flow rate absolutely dialled in.
To do this you need to calibrate your esteps or rotational distance if you use Klipper. Then you need to print a single wall hollow cube and compare the wall thickness to the one requested in your slicer. Walls to thick, over extrusion, reduce your flow rate. To thin, then it's the opposite. Look up teaching techs guide for printer tuning on this. Flow rate will need to be tuned for each roll of filament due to variations in diameter between rolls effecting extrusion volume.
Estep and flow rate calibration is critical for PETG as over extrusion is what causes the filament to build up on the nozzle over time causing stinging, layer shifts and small features failing due to the build up of filament on the nozzle interfering with the extrusion path.
After that it's a matter of tuning your retraction and your part cooling relative to the print speed. Getting your cooling right is also very important. To low and you make PETG more prone to string. To high and as the extrusion is layed down it will have a whitish haze. It should be glossy. Translucent PETG is good for tuning cooling as it looses it's translucency with over cooling.
In my experience coasting made things worse and I just used wipe. I also use S3d.
You should also tune your bridge setting as this will make a huge difference to your overhangs. I think mine are set to 10mm3 area, 2.00 expansion, 95% flow, 100% speed. This works well but could probably be improved upon. PETG has poor bridging properties so you need to set your bridge trigger low which is why mine is at 10mm3. Useful for 1st layer top with low infill percentages.
I might just upload my S3d profile so you can compare. Way to much to type here.
Ashley … I must commend you .. you know your stuff , the one thing that petg adds to its complexity is at certain temperatures it operates in an amorphous state of flow and at higher temps it flips to a crystalline state if flow .. amorphous state of flow is like syrup crystalline is like water . Rheology , the study of plastic flow is a topic that is widely known in the injection molding industry which I suspect you may know about ..
I followed the same guide it was very good. However, the extrusion amount (flow in cura) I adjusted this to have the right thickness of a single wall that my slicer says should be the output..
after that adjustment (which went from 100% to 86) found my first layer to have gaps, a sign of under extrusion again. & yes my z offset has been tuned before all these.
More tinkering I’m guessing.
@@daveoutlaw9890 Thank you but I'm just a hobbyist. My knowledge comes from observation and problem solving. I will look into rheology, it sounds interesting.
@@DSPrints_ yeah cura is a funny one. I spent a couple of days attempting to tune petg in cura on 2 seperate occasion and I could never get a result like in S3D. Could not tune out stringing or improper printing of small feature. Cura has some things going on behind the curtain that prevent you having full control over what is happening I suspect.
I use super slicer now. Haven't printed petg with it. Haven't printed petg for a while actually. Not since I built my voron 2.4 and am able to reliably print ABS.
Ordered my first spool of PETG today and will be tweaking my printer so I can print a helmet chin mount for my GoPro. I have an Ender 3 Pro, Microswiss Direct drive, MS full metal hot end 4.2.2 board, BLT etc. Normally runs fine but I'm thinking I'm in for a bit of a learning curve lol
We have tested hundreds of materials every year for consistency in color, extrusion, moisture, tolerance, etc.. The three manufacturers that have stood out and given the most consistent results are direct purchases from Prusament, 3DXtech, and Atomic Filament.
You obviously didn’t test 3D-fuel if Atomic is on that list.
Super well put together video. I love finding these types of tests where someone does everything. I just picked up the Adventurer 5M a month or so ago. Loving it so far, but stock settings for PETG are not working. I'm going to try a few of these things. I found with PLA, I needed 240F, probably because the thing moves so fast. Not sure if you've picked up an AD5M, but would highly recommend it. Would love to see your analysis on some filaments with that machine. Subscribed !!
Built my Prusa, put some Prusament PETG on it and it produced a perfect benchy on the first run! No messing about, just worked.
i managed to print a 3d benchy in 30 minutes in petg without stringing.
I didnt want to sacrifice speed so the trick i found was to change the order in which the inner/outer layers get printed as well as the outer wall speed.
I also use the spiral manoeuvre and minimal z hop as a means to "clean" or "wipe" the extruder.
Low printing temperature at 220 and part cooling fan.
Been running Anycubic Mega X for size and if you add a dual gear or mod them they are great cheap printers. I have clear petg dialed for large items and thin wall settings at 233c The fast way to test is use support lines holding a hangmans post the single layer support is max transparency on petg so adjust as it builds with heat settings watching the walls..
NGL for a new channel your camera work and editing are on point...
Thanks! This is actually my second channel. My first one is in the finance niche so I guess it’s not my first rodeo 😅
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Ahh that makes sense haha 1 why i haven't seen it and 2 why you're already so good lol
Thanks for sharing all this work! I'm currently printing my first PETG object, a BEN (floating benchmark, with more detail) and it's going very well so far. Printing with Duramic Premium PETG (white) on my Ender 3 V2, which is stock except Capricorn bowden tube. Hot end at 240C (don't want to overheat my bowden) and bed at 70C with blue painters tape on the printing surface, as I heard PETG can tear up the bed. I set up a custom material because the "Creality Slicer" (repackaged Cura I believe?) doesn't have Duramic products yet, no fan for first 0.7mm and then 20% fan after. I checked during the print and the Ender said it was doing 51% fan so I tuned it down to 25% and it seems to be doing a bit cleaner than when it was at 51% but that was okay too. (this was a bit of a mistake on my part, see edit) Not sure if any of this info helps, I wonder if PETG prints better with a very short bowden, as mine is like maybe 18cm, no where near your 50cm, but I figured I would share my experience so far. Still doing a lot of learning myself. 😊
Edited to say my BEN turned out pretty great, the details weren't as clean as PLA+ but I realized later that in the "tuning" on the printer interface the fan speed works on a 0-255 scale, so 51 was 20%, and when I dialed it in to what I thought was 25% I was changing it to 25/255 or 10%. I also realized that I never had the option visible in my slicer that allows for a different initial layer temp, so I set that up for my second PETG print which is currently underway. So I am now doing ZERO fan for the first 0.7mm and then 25% or 61/255 for the rest of my print. Hoping this can clean up the details a little as 10% was a bit low I feel. I also just noticed that I forgot to mention my print speed before, which is set to 50mm/s print.
I had a similar issue with a bcn3d sigma r19, even though it was a £2500 printer sometimes a lemon gets through qc.. I swear my £350 cr10 was more reliable. One thing I found out is on bowden printers I never use z hop (cura & super slicer) as it wipes that crud off the nozzle, when you get coasting, retraction and wipe tuned.
In the temperature section you talk about that odd diagonal blobs that is being produced. And then you moved onto the retraction settings. Was that the cure to removing that diagonal blob stairway?
I had terrible stringer with PLA recently. Had never happened before but I don't use my Ender 3D clone very often. I ended up replacing the hot end. 1,000% better instantly. The old OE hot end was literally cooked. It stank from burnt PLA, and must have had issue hanging the filament.
I spent 3 nights doing many temperature, and settings changes trying to figure out why it was printing so bad, but sometimes it's just as simple as changing a printer part, like a nozzle, or hot end, or extruder.
Just for another point of reference. I have printed about 50 spools of PETG filament over the past two years on two different printers. Switching between whichever was cheapest at the time between Overture, Polymaker, Duramic, Inland and eSun. Of those, eSun seemed to absorb the most moisture. But all have worked well for me once I had my printer working properly. I wouldn't personally buy anything cheaper than those brands and I really didn't like the Matterhackers Build Series PETG. For me the biggest differences were ditching the PTFE lined Creality clone hotend with a bowden tube and moving to a direct drive and an all metal hotend. And second, making absolutely sure my first layer was good, not too close and not too far. Too close and you end up with lots of blobs and problems with later layers because of the pressure build up in the nozzle. Also, I use 100% fan after the first layer.
I also got good results installing the Creality Sprite Pro direct drive head to my Ender 3 Pro.
Now the only thing that seems to matter when printing PETG is keeping my retraction under 1mm so it doesn't pull the filament out of the melt zone.
Thank you for doing all this work and sharing so much with us. Liked and subscribed! One thing I have noticed is that a brand new brass nozzle can really be a game changer sometimes, but once I start changing filaments it goes down hill from there. What do you think?
My printer I think uses a steel nozzle. It’s definitely proprietary since they cost around $27 per piece! I don’t mix filaments within the same nozzle and I would recommend anyone reading this to label your nozzles with the first filament you used in it
I had the same issue with youe black benches brealing appsrt at the top
My fix was zhop and a cold pull
Cripes dude, you really did good work here, and thanks! I hate overture petg and probably wont buy any other filament they make because it is such hot trash imo.
I think ABS is the better filament and much easier to print quality parts. I'd rather buy a $50 enclosure than 3 $30 spools and spending days getting it right
Had nothing but problems with Overture PETG with any settings, I settled on amazon basics PETG seems pretty good for the price. Great video man.
Sadly we don’t have Amazon petg in Canada
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 It looks like it's made by 3d Jake in the Netherlands at least it's made there according to the spool
Esun PETG has been good for me, just waiting on some PETG+ from Sparta3D to try. Overture has been hit and miss.
@@grantsautoessentials9584 I actually printed some Esun which I didn’t mention in my video and those failed as well on my first printer. I haven’t tried it on the brand new one yet
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 do you have devil design? You should try that filament. I have great results with the av4…. Even without stringing!!
Hello! I've watched all your videos! You're doing great! Thanks for the clarification!
There is still a question. If the Z axis is not fixed at the base of the printer, how can I fix it? How to fix it? As I understand it, this greatly affects the print quality.
Maybe come up with an STL file that could fix the old revisions of Adventurer 4?
Daniel hope your quest is going well. I added a comment to Ashely’s that many help you . I have a adventure 4 and your video was extremely helpful . I do have a background in high precision injection molding and can see the parallels in processing petg . The material is a hybrid engineering material and does have two entirely different processing parameters depending on the type of results you want in regards to properties . Figuring theses things out in 3d printing is a challenge . I had a few questions on where you found a temp tower that works on a flash print slicer . And you were abl3 to edit the flash print code . I am currently printing petg on my flash forge not exactly perfect but much improved based on your videos ..thanks for your explanations ! I was thinking about maybe creating a video on the difference between amorphous and crystalline flow characteristics that may help others understand the variations in results
I am able to edit the flashprint code if its saved as a gcode file. Not the gx files. The temp tower is just a generic one that I found on thingiverse. There are quite a few if you search up temperature tower if you haven't tried yet
Great, helpful information and I appreciate that. I do find the music distracting, though.
Question, My ender3 has a sprite direct drive extruder, how much would coasting effect my prints with petg?
im usen nept 4 max and haven a the problem about mid way into a project(helmet) it starts stringing but little pieces
and advice
WOAH you bought another ad4! crazy haha, It appears the new one has stabilizers for the Z rods.. now I'm kicking myself for not waiting longer before buying the ad4 :( but hopefully whatever changes/fixes they did on the newer ones can be implemented on the older ones.. but changing z rods looks like a pain on this machine.
Yeh I bought it on Amazon so it’s an easier return process
I dont know about their PETG but Overture and Duramic have the EXACT PLA formula. There is absolutely no difference so I would suspect it would be the same for their PETG. I can actually print really well with Overture because it is one of the few brands that can give you a matte finish while maintaining strength and durability but from everyone's complaints I am going to try hatchbox and polymaker tomorrow to see if life can get easier. I do know that turning my fans completely off and printing at 220 @60mms with only a .8mm retraction (direct drive) 96% flow gives a perfect wall. Do note that over retracting can cause serious clogs if you are not careful.
I'm sure the black pigments on PETG have something to do with all this. I'vr tried eSun, 3DJake and Extrud3r and I get perfect prints with all colors but black. Thank you very much for the video, will do another retraction testing session today.
I have the same suspicion...black petg just doesn't print well.
Every 3d printers are not create equal so your best setting may not be my best setting but it is a good start.
I've had tons of trouble with PETG bot with my creality ender 5 pro but do get best results when using the PRUSA slicer or Lychee slicer for all Prusa is free so far to linux users don't know about windows...
Are you accounting for the moisture content of your filament? If not, that is an uncontrolled variable that could explain the variance between brands of filament. One roll is likely more dry than the other. It just works that way even in factory sealed bags. PETG does absorb water and it really effects print quality. Get a filament dryer capable of hitting 70C and dry all filament before and during testing.
I have a filament dryer which I put the filament through for 6h and then 24h after to see if that made a difference
It would be useful is if your provided your cura profiles
Fine tuning is everything, yet sometimes i wonder what´s going on here. I have a Sidewinder X2 and use Redline PETG which costs about 27 € per Kilo. I never had bad stringing or anything that many people frequently experience. I calibrated my printer once and besides some tweaks i had to make due to some elephant footing which i resolved with initial fan speeds and bed heating adjustments i never had problems. After some cubes i went straight to a 3 day Helmet Print, no problems, minimal stringing on the inside because i tried to save as much material as possible by using minimal supports. The rest was near perfect. Sometimes i just think some 3D printers are outright worse than others. And for the mere 400 bucks the X2 cost me it is a beast. I am even still on my first nozzle. Just don´t cheap out on your filament and slow is always better.
Another thing that boggles my mind is that you had to buy another printer. It´s a shame on the design of the printer that you couldn´t tune the motors and rolls yourself. On the X2 i can tune every axis myself by loosening the screws and tuning everything so the mechanics of the hardware and the software actually synch up. It´s not just about tuning your slicer settings, you have to tune the actual printer. Mechanics and Software have to work hand in hand here. The video is great i am just sad you had to spend 1300 bucks twice to achieve what i had with 400 bucks. But hey it´s been a year and the hobby is evolving every day! :D
yes petg is the bane of my existence i have a cr-10 .8 nozzle
I found that a big part in printing PETG successfully is a filament oiler/lubricator
Where can I download that STL model?
So frustrating. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the glass bed and direct drive upgrades. I print some things just fine if they are solid. Did the retraction/stringing towers and they come out perfect. But anything in a real print with small gaps, and it's always a stringy mess.
I've raised and lowered temp.
I've increased retraction distance up to 15 and decreased down to 1. Increased retraction speed all the way to 80.
Increased speed up to 70 and decreased down to 20.
Turned off z hop.
Reduced flow.
Increased travel speed all the way to 200.
And all combinations I can imagine.
What puzzles me is that none of these -- not one variation -- results in any difference whatsoever. Stringy mess.
Any ideas?
I set the slicer to print the perimeter first.
cool
Did you try disabling gap-fill? If you set the speed to 0, then it's disabled. At least in Prusaslic3r.
Gap fill is a pain in my opinion, especially with a bowden setup.
I did disable gap fill at one point. But I have quite liked how gap fill works on superslicer because it prevents the printer from doing quick jittery infill patterns in those narrow sections
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I think i combated that with disabling jerk and setting acceleration a bit lower.
Did you also try linear advance?
@@cirrus820 My printer doesn't have jerk, acceleration, or linear advance settings. Its firmware is closed as far as I'm aware otherwise I would have looked into those
Any reason you aren't using cura? You seem to hop slicers pretty regularly, but don't mention using arguably the most popular free slicer.
I have tried Cura as well. I would say each slicer has its own quirks and at this point, I've spent close to 400 hours trying out different slicers and messing around so I'm just sticking to superslicer for the most part
when details are printed with Petg. This kicks the FAN on and this cools your petg ENOUGH to not let the next layer stick to the lower layer and it starts balling up and then you get the blobs and the extruder hitting the previous layer.....
Same experience with Overture: it's the worst PETG I ever used. Impossible to extrude fast and constant adhesion failures on first layer without going extremely slow.
I've had great first layer adhesion (glass bed+glue stick) at 250C, 70C bed, and 25mm/s. The rest of the print works beautifully at 40mm/s, but small features are a nightmare that I've been unable to solve. Hundreds of hours and 450g of wasted filament later...
The printer is a modded Ender 5 (BL touch, upgraded bed heater, all-metal hotend, mainboard), but I'm not aware of everything as I'm borrowing this unit, but the owner has had great success printing PLA, PETG (eSun), ABS, TPU, wood-filled. I've gotten all the parts I need from PETG now anyway, so I might just stick with PLA and ASA from here on.
Try the stl called pray it. Of a cowboy kneeling down and praying I have been trying to print with petg but not having any luck may one of you can try it My printer it a tenlog 3d pro
0:33 Did you really transform two collums into a benchy? 😮
What was your fan speed on cura?
On my ender 3 pro I have dual 4010s and gave the fan speeds at 50% for my overture petg
Use that with what you will
I was using around 20%
I literally just threw five spools of Overture filament in the bin - apart from one highlighter yellow and green one where I use the filament only for embedded filament vases ... Pain in the ass stuff
Pretty weird how crazy different experiences people have, seriously, I wonder what the heck is so different for me to reach 80mm/s at 0.2mm layers with 0.5mm line width, on a clone V6 hotend (normal, not volcano), 0.4mm nozzle.
Truth be told, I really don't care about stringing so I'm just pushing material as fast as the printer can push, but well, that's a massive speed increase with Aliexpress versions of parts, I'm not running anything weird exotic... Could the material be that much different? Could your nozzle be on the way out? I did have horrible clogs all the time when mine was going away.
Extruder is a titan clone (Aliexpress cheapest I can find again), direct drive. The heater cartridge is a 40w one tho at least. so maybe that's significant? Single 5015 blower but the duct blows both sides, 40% fan speed.
Great video, might help me once I dare to buy some PETG filament
Just Do It!
Great info.. but why on earth did you buy another one of those things 😆
So I could return my first one through Amazon 🥸
that indent on the benchy means your bed temp is to hot
Thanks for doing this, so we don't have to :)
I just filled out a return for overture PLA cause it just refused to behave. This doesn't inspire confidence lol
I pushed the flow to 120% and it seems to have stopped majority of blobbing. Total noob here.
interesting solution...I still get clogs here and there. One thing I did notice for my latest print is that I got a clog when leaving the door closed and then after, I decided to leave the door open and the rest of the print succeeded. Need to test this out a little bit more
Make sure your filament is absolutely bone dry. PETG is stringing like hell if it's only a little moist.
I've tried trying out my filament before and it didn't make much of a difference
bowden
I had better results once I dropped flow to .88
Jesus thats lot of time on testing adjusting theorizing
Petg at 265 whata re you doing lmao
You're talking about "perfect" results but your benchy looks not perfect. And that's with very slow speed. I'm printing many different PETGs (Geeetech, Kingroon, Extrudr...) 12-20mm³/200mm/s max (depends on layer height, a key is a good hotend like vulcano- or cht-style and limit speeds conservative by volumetric flow). Even on Ender 2 I was printing it better with 60mm/s. Orca slicer standard profiles for petg are looking better with my printer. On newer printers pressure advance tuning also drastically improves quality btw..
Cura + ender 3 max + manual bed lvl + bmg with volcano + 2x4010 fan 40% speed + "wet" filament
= strings only on my gf ass.
0.93 filament ratio, 230-250°C hotend, 0.4 noze, 3mm retract, 80mms outer, 60mms inner, 40mms top bottom, 25mms initial 100mms infill, small perimeters 8mm 50% speed, 2000mms² traveling, 1200mms² outerwalls.
Still my K1 is 2,5x faster, but ender is perfected in every dimension
So maybe this video should be called printing PETG as fast as possible...
I'm here to figure out how to get the best quality...not the fastest print speed....
Thanks anyway.
Lets just have a minute of silence. He ordered another 1300$ printer that he only had issues with to figure out if that was causing overture petg to fail
Amazon returns :D
dude what is that😂those first prints look awful. the only problems i’ve had with petg is a lil warping and bed adhesion
Bro buy a resin printer, why buy another one,. If you want quality resin, or.buy prusa or.diff kind of printer brand
Nah I don’t want to deal with the mess of a resin printer. I bought a second one on Amazon so it was easy to return
he he ok bro
How to get perfect PETG prints? Order a new printer haha
buy a new printer every time there's an issue, got it.
Goes debug a material, ends up buying a new printer. Your process is not good dude.
Horrible Quality
Expensive Printer For Nothing.
Amén.
Why not go direct drive?