How to 3d Print PETG Reliably and Safely
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- One of the more common questions I receive from my viewers is how to print with PETG. In this video, I will discuss when to use PETG vs PLA, the safety of printing with PETG, and how to properly set up your printer to print PETG. Any 3d printer that can print at 230C and has a heated print bed that can reach 80c is able to print PETG you just need to know the tips in this video.
The following Google slide deck has the material reference in this video including the startup gcode for Cura version 4.X.
docs.google.com/presentation/...
Please leave your comments below and let's continue to learn new things together.
Irv
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You, good Sir, are a mad, mad, mad , mad, mad genius!!! And you include your slides so we can cut-and-paste the g-code (eliminating typos or me reading bad handwriting!) YOU THOUGHT OF EVERYTHING!!! This is a GLORIOUS moment in my 3D printing life!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!
Dude i love the way you deliver your information. You talk like a professor
Your videos are always so much informative and with deep dive on topics! I really enjoy material on your channel!
I had a client who needed a part for their drone and PETG's mechanical properties made it the ideal candidate since it's much less brittle than PLA. I figured while I was at it I would print the new fan duct I've been wanting for my Sovol SV01. As a result I had a lot of trial and error tweaking my settings for getting really nice string-free prints from PETG. I found that using a temperature tower to select the lowest temp that has less stringing but still had good layer adhesion makes a big difference. In addition, I increased my travel speed to maximum to help with oozing, set my print speed to 35mm/s, disabled combing, increased retraction by 1mm and set retraction to a nice slow speed of 25mm/s for both my bowden and direct drive setup, and set my part cooling fan to 0% for the first several layers, then 50% after that (100% when doing bridges still, which you can set in Cura). YMMV but this worked for me to get quite clean prints.
@Anthony Towler Excellent suggestions. Thanks for sharing.
I’m glad I ran across this comment. My son got a drone and I immediately thought about printing replacement parts, but wasn’t sure which kind of filament to use. Thanks!
This just prevented me from throwing my PETG rolls away! Thanks!
Great to see you back Doc. just received my Ender5 and thanks to your video's i am learning to understand the 3Dsubject better
I appreciate the particle testing, it's nice to see that, at least for those readings, it seems well in the safe zone. Thanks for all you hard work.
Glad that you are doing well. I have just found your videos and enjoy them. My father was a teacher of industrial arts if he was still around he would have love doing 3D and CNC machining. Thanks for sharing.
So glad you recovered.
Me too 😀
Your videos are well-organized. Thank you.
I really like your videos. For me, you're the best on TH-cam. Because the way you talk, your enthusiasm and the way you present the content just makes me want to know more. Thank you and keep up the good work.
I really like the amount of work and detail that you put into this video. I've been 3D printing for a while and I still learned something.
@Anthony Towler Thanks. In addition your comments are a wonderful addition to the community.
I have a new community discussion group at forum.drvax.com where I hope that people will have more flexibility to engage in discussions, share files and post images. You comments about printing PETG would be a wonderful addition if you would be willing to post them there.
Irv
@@MakeWithTech will do!
Glad to have you back ,hope your recovery is going well going into winter down here in Australia , enjoying your videos during the lock down.
Thanks 👍
I love your energy, keep up the great videos sir!
Jus found your channel and while the quality of your information and videos are stellar, what I find even more valuable is how much you clearly enjoy doing this type of stuff. Agressively wholesome, keep up the great job!
cool channel indeed
This was perfect explanation for beginners like me. Thank you so much for sharing. Best regards
That is my goal. Thanks for the comment.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
You are amazing Dr. Vax, helped me a lot of times when i was almost giving up !
I love your videos, thank you for what you do, highly appreciated I'm learning a lot from you. God bless.
Ok... now I can’t wait to try PTEG! Thanks for another great tutorial. Think I learned something 😉
Enjoy.
This was perfect!! I just had this chat with a friend yesterday. I would like to know more about editing gcode.. perhaps in stages from understanding to modifying. Retraction is another thing I'm not sure about.. what are normal ranges? So much to learn.. so glad your back healthy to share your knowledge with us! It is very much appreciated!!
@Don Murphy Thanks for the kind words. You can find a number of videos on the channel about gcode. Best way to find them is to just go to the DrVax TH-cam home page at th-cam.com/users/drvax
I ordered two spools of ABS by mistake I thought I really messed up but I moved the printer to the garage and as long as the temps are right and most important is the bed adhesion (I use hairspray exclusively) I have gotten great success I’m working on an enclosure and a fume extractor so whenever I print ABS I don’t have to move everything to the garage 👍👍 I’m really glad that you have survived this pandemic great to see you as always Shalom.
Thanks for the comment. Good move to print ABS outside.
I can't thank you enough for the time and care taken in your videos. The education you provide in these is quite literally priceless.
From a total 3D print noob - thank you so much.
I'm having a hell of a time printing with PETG, but you've provided a lot of points in this video (and others) that I'm confident we'll get it tuned and get running clean.
Your comment regarding art and science with 3D printing is probably one of the biggest attractions for a polymath like myself. Well worded.
Thanks again.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video !! Remarquable cover of the widest set of parameters on TH-cam by far… thank you so much !! No I can begin with PETG fully aware of its characteristics 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another EXCELLENT video! Now I know why my prints would not bond to the bed! Many Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Great channel
Love your content Irv thank you.
Hi DrVax, I'm from Brazil and I know your TH-cam channel today. You do a great job. Thank you for all the information shared. Much health and success in your ideals.
Thanks for watching.
I really appreciate the look at G-Code. This made me realize that the default settings in Cura for "Generic PETG" don't match the manufacturer's recommended temperature and flow settings, and I was able to tune the settings before I printed with a nozzle heated only to 215°C, when the recommendation was 230-250°C!
This really saved my bacon on my first experimental PETG printing experience. Thank you! 😀
wonderful stuff! informative and very clear , a pleasure to watch!
I love the pen display :) Thanks for the video!
Great timing for this video, I accidentally ordered some PETG filament, thought it was PLA, oops.
And just received a new ender 3 pro, so I should be able to print with the PETG. Thanks. So glad to see you are back. Hoping that you are recovering well.
Mike Gillespie I have a Ender 3 Pro and have been printing PETg with good success. I commented with parameters in another direct thread. Have fun!
Thanks for the clear data and information!!! 😊
Glad to see you are well and back. Really like your videos and learning from them.
Thanks.
I mainly use just really clean glass, get a really nice finish. I sometimes use PVA glue just a thin skim on glass gets almost as good results. I have tried almost everything for bed adhesion. At one point I just used super strong hair gel on glass, great results and very cheap. Always enjoy and learn something from your videos, very knowledgeable. Thanks for your time and efforts.
I enjoy using PETG for high temp resistance but I really love printing in PLA. Great video Irv, keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Fantastic advice! I have always loved the versatility of PETG and it is printing very well on my CREALITY K1 MAX. I absolutely love your educational approach and I am glad I found you on TH-cam! Knowledge is power and all of it that you imparted was on track. I have never wanted to print with ABS since it is toxic and it smells horrible so PETG has been my go to. Many thanks for your friendly and highly informative approach!
Love Your vids Irv
Another great bed adhesion option for PETG is investing in a good flexible spring steel sheet, those work great for release PETG prints and leave a beautiful finish on the side.
Nice Video, the information you have shared is a great help. Thanks.
Thanks Doc! Love your videos.
I new to 3D printer and after I watched this video I subscribed right the way, BEST FOR NOOB. Thanks
My goal is to help people new to technology learn about tech they can use to make stuff. So thanks for the comment.
@@MakeWithTech i got Delta pro and kisslicer but i don't know how to change setting in kisslicer to give me temperature i want my printer go back to 200c after i set to 240c on PETG any help?
I've wanted to say that your videos are very informative and very detailed when it comes to certain things dealing with 3-D printing… I'm a newbie at this and so far your videos have been very helpful in getting me through all the complexities of 3-D printing. I don't think I'm ready for printing anything in PETG or ABS even though that my Ender 3 v2 3-D printer can print with these materials. I am still having problems with slicing my 3-D print projects in Cura (fine tuning the settings for my 3-D printer) and will take a little time for me to get the bugs out. Again thank you for taking your time and letting newbies like me get into a new hobby and allowing me to have fun with 3-D printing.
My pleasure
Valuable info. Thank you
I am watching this on my first day of printing. I wish I had seen it before starting off. My computer is in for repairs and started off with PETG, I struggled a little trying to pause the print to turn back temp settings as they were reverting to the default gcode temps .. By the end of the day, I found my way to editing the 104 and 140 codes. Also, my Ender 3 was slow to react to feed rates, this I will want to adjust. As soon as I figure out how to include a few lines to get the extruder laying out nice I will include the code in every print just to see how things are laying out . Great videos, great content/advice .
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. I just started 3D printing about 3-4 weeks ago with an Ender 3 v2 printer. I started with PLA without issues and learned a lot about bed leveling with it. I bought PETG from Inland at MicroCenter yesterday, loaded up the PETG and started a test print. Bed adhesion and very strong and the test prints went well. I started a print that was going to take several hours and after watching for about 20m, I went to bed. When I got up this morning I had 2 issues. First is the bed adhesion was crazy strong. I ended up pre-heating the bed to 60c to get it unstuck. The second issue is the print failed with about 20% to go. It seems like the print head got clogged and the the hot tip melted the top printed layers. I am using the Cura 5.10 slicer, but I also manually set the bed and print head to 70c and 235c respectively. FYI, the Inland box says the temperature range is 225-240c for the print head. I had seen the temperatures change in mid start-up code, so I think your temperature discuss will be the answer there. So what do I do for the possible clogging issue? Thanks again for your channel and help.
I just ordered my first printer, an Ender 3 V2 and some PETG filament. It seemed to have the best combined properties and the most versatile filament across the board for practical uses. Thanks for the video, it confirmed my assumptions and I'm really looking forward to 3D printing and your channel seems very valuable.
I would recommend you begin you 3d printer journey with PLA and once you have mastered that move on to PETG.
Great video! I was just thinking abut it would be nice if you made a PETG How To video last week when I was waiting for my PETG filament order to arrive. You look a lot more of your old self as well in the video. Continue the videos and recovery!
Thanks
I'm glad cura added the option to choose petg so I don't have to mess with changing the gcode
Thanx for the video Doc! I have a few rolls of PETG but have been worried about messing with it, until now. I actually have printed TPU with the SeeMeCNC EZR Struder but was more scared of PETG lol
I would love to see a video like this on TPU also!! I know TPU varies greatly I guess due to the shore hardness varying but it would still be nice to see a general guide like this one.
Thanks for the comment.
Great advice!
Thanks. Useful video
Thank you, Irv, for this deep dive into real world PETG printing. I have been experimenting with it for a few months now, but found it more difficult to print than PLA because my environment is drafty. Adding an enclosure helped stabilize this for me. I still have questions as to how adequate ventilation is supposed to work without introducing significant drafts to a printer without an enclosure - I am thinking that having the enclosure will act as a buffer, with the room's air being able to be exhausted outside in a reasonable way without affecting the area inside the enclosure. I also found issues printing PETG first layers until I started using 3M blue tape on the bed - the textured surface of the tape seems to keep the first layer stuck properly during printing far better than the textured layer on my build plate. Glad you are feeling better! Best wishes.
I have also used blue tape in the past but find magigoo works even better.
Cura 4+ seems to add the correct code to wait for the preheat before starting when using the Ender 3 and Ender 5 profiles :). I am guessing some profiles may have it missing. Very good knowledge to give out as some do not do that.
Thank you sir!!
Great video
The filament from Pruca gives me a great result
And as always, the magic is happening in the slicer/software
Thanks for sharing :-)
Cool, thanks
Very detailed Video. Thanks :)
I had done a little research to figure out why my printer had a low temperature limit while other (more expensive printers) had much higher ones. What I found was it comes down to the hotend and the teflon tube that comes in it. Apparently teflon will degrade at higher temperatures and can even release gasses that you don't want. I've also learned that some manufacturers will rate their printer for a little higher than they should based on the quality of the teflon tubing / lining they use. My wife bought me an all metal hotend so I could feel more comfortable printing with PETG specifically and higher print temp materials in general without worrying that I'm degrading my bowden tube.
You can increase the safe temperature range of your printer by switch to Capricorn branded tubing which is rated at higher temperatures.
Great video!
Thank you very much Doc. 👍
I read where PLA needed pushed unto the bed but PETG didn't. I raised my offset .05 mm and I am finally am having good results! It is fast becoming my favorite. I am printing 2 degrees above the minimum temperature and bed temp to the max recommended and I changed my retraction from 1.1 to 2 mm with my direct print head.
Really helpful video - I am just waiting for my first 3d printer, so am trying to learn fast. Some points:
1. Someone suggested set temps then wait for both, saves time, rather than set bed, wait, set hotend, wait. I've read somewhere that it is best not to leave the nozzle hot and doing nothing for a long time, as it might dribble (!), and since the bed is slower to heat, get that done first. So, on that basis, your ordering looks best.
2. Would I be right in assuming that the bits in {} are macros automatically filled in from settings, either from slicer settings or the printer?
3. Why are temps being set twice - above and below the the initial print lines? Does the g92 (reset extruder) cause the settings to be lost?
4. Would it not be best to do auto bed levelling after the bed at least is up to the right temperature for accuracy re expansion? If so would that also apply to the nozzle?
5. I wondered why it is necessary to raise the extruder 2mm, does the g92 e0 cause the extruder to go to Z position 0, ie right down to bed level, and if so, doesn't that imply the g92 must cause the nozzle to hit the bed?
6. I assume g29 does a full bed level - 10x10 points in Marlin, I believe. Elsewhere I've seen a recommendation to do a quick 3 point only level before every print. Ie manually do a one off full auto level, and save the 10x10 array, then in the start code per print, load the saved array, then do the 3 point level just to check for any further offsets / bed movements, then print. This was with Marlin 2.x. I guess it saves a bit of time by assuming the bed may have slightly moved, but the surface profile will be the same?
All your videos and helpful and explain a lot - why as well as how. Thanks.
Excellent video Irv! I am getting ready to switch to my second filament (PTEG) so this was very helpful. I would like to know more about the G Code editing! Do you have to make those edits in each G Code file? What program do you use to do the edits, etc? Thanks for all you do to help us!
great vid dr vax
I’ve had success with PETg with a bed at 69degC and glue stick, so good that I struggled to get prints off... filament used was Marvle3D.
PETg Maximum print speed of 60mm/s. I’m Using Cura, set print temp 239-255degC you may need to tune temp while printing as too hot creates stringing (octoPrint helps with this) 239degC for slower and thin layer heights, 0.1mm and at the other end, with a 0.27mm later height, the extra temp setting was needed at 255degC to ensure that it flows well.
If your printer doesn’t do a prime index line, add a skirt to your print so you have flow. Retraction needs to be more than PLA. I run retraction at 6.5mm for PETg to help reduce stringing.
I use mostly PETG from eSUN that have low print temperature (220C) and get perfect prints. The only thing i didn't use is a bed glass - and i will right now- with a glue! Thank you mr. Shapiro for the great informations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for sharing!
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out.
@@MakeWithTech I will for sure!!!!!!!
great thanks 👍
I know it has been a while ago since this has been posted, but when talking about the brim not releasing easily, I have recently found that having the brim attachment distance(Cura) set to -.004 allows for a nice thing line to tare away, now this does not effect adhesion over all but it can allow warping to pull up, but with the right temps and a clean bed (I just Isopropyl 91% quick wipe to leave a film as a releasing agent, releases the PETG just under its glass transit temp, the ISO which I found is needed to release and safely used on glass beds, that works nicely compared to regular glue stick)
Hi! I just orderd a printer and PETG filament....lets see if I can figure this out!? Great video! God bless you!
Thanks
The Overture build surface sheets work very well for PETG (and PLA), as long as your bed is leveled properly. Bed temperature 80C, although that might be machine and filament dependent to some degree.
بارك الله فيك
very nice -- thank you
More like a craft than art or science. I believe that craft is the best cross between those two.
I agree. Great word.
A good point, Craft is when you mix art and science ( and a lot of experience)
@@woodwaker1 Yep exactly - Experience is accumulated by looking at your mistakes and applying sciences to understand how and why you should correct your mistakes.
@Gert Halberg I value your comment and your contribution to the DrVax community.
To help us all build the DrVax community of "makers" I have created a new community forum at forum.drvax.com . At the DrVax forum, you can engage in discussions with me and other community members, use a rich text editor, and post images. This should facilitate better communications.
It would be great if you could repost your comment to the forum to help with the discussions.
This forum is still in beta and the software I am using is complex so I may have some feature misconfigured.
All the best. Irv
DrVax Sure Irv I’ll be delighted to🤓
One thing I didn't see you mention is the Bowden tube. I have read that some printers don't do the higher temps without destroying the factory tube. Do you recommend upgrading to the Capricorn tube before venturing into PETG?
Thanks for the learning.
Glad to see you well, Doc
Give PrintaStick for bed adhesive ... I think you’ll like it. Good vid .... thanks
Thanks for the recommendation.
I use a spay called 3DLac for bed adhesion on glass. Seems to works very well for PETG. I have even applied it while the bed is warming up for a print although I doubt thats recommended.
Can you do the air quality test with abs just for interest sake?
It would be a good comparison.
Thank you very much for this video. I lost quite a bit of petg before this video. So I'll try again tonight.
Does speed need to be down like 40mm or it depends too much on the printer? I use an ender 5 Pro. (I understand you can't give specific advice for each printer, but I was looking for a general idea).
Thanks
i am fairly new to 3d printing today is my very first time i print with PETG and i didnt so far have any issue at all iprinted at 85 bed 250 nuzzle and have no issue at all
First time viewing your chnl. Just recently received my first 3d printer snapmaker A250. I have no clue on anything 3d prints and you made it sound English.
I wanted to know about enclosure, do I really need it or not and if you have one setup if yes, have you made videos about.
I have a fume extractor so I am thinking of using that with my window kinda open. It's winter so gets pretty cold 🥶 on the east side. I will sub and check out the rest of your videos. Looking forward. Fantastic video.. Thanks a lot!!!!. Take care
If you print in PLA, which is a good start, you do not use an enclosure and an enclosed could cause your prints to fail if the environment gets too warm.
@@MakeWithTech i loaded up a PLA, got lucky it came with one. Lol 😆
I feel like you're my dad teaching me stuffs.
Maybe u have daddy issues
Thanks!!!
You bet!
One possible time saver that I think would make startup a little faster is to set both the bed and the nozzle temp and then wait for both of them. That way they are heating at the same time. So, M140, M104, M190, M109. Of course, you need to have a power supply that is capable of heating both. It works fine on my Prusa Mini that I got last month.
You are correct. But we are talking about seconds here, maybe a couple of minutes, out of prints potentially lasting hours.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures of our prints and printers. Check it out. Please excuse if I have posted this to multiple comments from the you. Just trying to get a bit of exposure. Irv
Great, Thanks
thank you
Just in case -- Cura 4.8 generates proper starting G-Code, if your profile is OOTB or it's custom one based on Cura Generic PETG profile.
E.g. this is extract from my sliced models, from the beginning:
M140 S82
M105
M190 S82
M104 S240
M105
M109 S240
That matches 100% to the profile I've set for custom Overture PETG BLACK for my E3 Pro with
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit. I hope this will be helpful. Happy New Year!!!
you rock dude
Cura 4.7.1 seems to have the start G-code correct for my Ender 3 V2
Thanks.
Great video as usual, however you are wasting time in your start code
You should change it to:
set bed temperature
set hot end temperature
wait for bed temperature
wait for hot end temperature
This way both the bed and the hot end start heating up at the same time and your wait time to reach the hot end temperature is reduced.
Glad you are healty again and keep up the good work
Claude.
You are correct. But I do not generally optimize my start code because it is very little of my overall print time.
@onleditpas I value your comment and your contribution to the DrVax community.
To help us all build the DrVax community of "makers" I have created a new community forum at forum.drvax.com . At the DrVax forum, you can engage in discussions with me and other community members, use a rich text editor, and post images. This should facilitate better communications.
It would be great if you could repost your comment to the forum to help with the discussions.
This forum is still in beta and the software I am using is complex so I may have some feature misconfigured.
All the best. Irv
Hi, great and informative. Do you have the link to the sanding block and do you recommend it?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1273771
@@MakeWithTech Thanks
Can you cover PETG on a Ender 5 with a Swiss Micro hotend. I'm having a heck of a time due to the limited retraction amount of an all metal hotend. Thanks! Glad to see you doing well!
The basic technique should be the same. Check out the comment from @Anthony Towler He has some suggestions that will probably help with the all metal hotend. Overall, one of the complaints many people have will all metal hot ends is stringing.
The best thin to do is ether get the Micro Swiss direct drive or revert back to stock hot end. You have the worst of both worlds, Bowden (needs lots of retraction) and all metal hot end(need very little retraction). I have printed PETG on a CR-10s but the retraction setting that worked really didn't work.
Nice video, helped me think about some things more deeply.
One comment on the Start gcode segment of the video. Apologies if I just missed the reference to which slicer the code was being used with, the slice "run time" variables of the from {variable name} aren't common across all slicers. Which slicer does this apply to and did you find a reference to a lit for that slicer's parameters?
This is designed for Cura 4.x. Good question.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks! The answer I wanted to hear. ;-)
I use PrusaSlicer2.0 and I think they are the same.
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature];
M104 S[first_layer_temperature];
M109 S[first_layer_temperature];
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature];
I print prusa PETG at 235C that seems optinum for my setup, 240C in some cases. That is both for my Ender-5 and Prusa MK3s.
Thanks for your comment.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures of our prints and printers. Check it out. Please excuse if I have posted this to multiple comments from the you. Just trying to get a bit of exposure. Irv
Great video!! I have the microswiss all metal hotend on Ender3 V2. Any idea why there's a lot of material build up on the nozzle when i print PETG? Nozzle is not leaking i've confirmed. My E-Steps are accurate as well. I tried under-extruding by changing the multiplier to 0.94. I've also tried increasing the gap between my nozzle and the bed. no luck so far. Eventually the build up clogs the nozzle in 25-30 mins after cleaning it. Any idea how can i resolve it?
I use regular painters masking tape with my PETG prints it works wonders especially with bed adhesion and because its tape stuck to glass removals never an issue also
Thanks for the comment. I have also used masking tape in the past, but I find Magigoo a bit less trouble than masking tape with better adhesion. However masking tape is much less expensive.
u r very good
Great video. I was able to complete the build of my Ender 3 V2. When printing my first test project, the device temperature was set to 225 degrees and the printer started, but filament was all over the place and the object was not a consistent object, it was very loose and soft. Any suggestions. Note: I'm very new to this.
On my v2 I set the hotend to 238 and bed to 85 degrees and changed the stock bed to a borosilicate glass bed
Nice story
Curious to see the numbers printing ABS. Was planning to have a fan/filter in enclosure when printing ABS. Thought that would be sufficient?
I have never printed with ABS because my lab is in the basement. My Prusa which is not enclosed has the temperature range for ABS but I have never had the need. Unfortunately I cannot provide you with any numbers -- however, there is lots of data on the Internet. Just google it. Irv