Finally someone says petg is not easy to print unless you've got things nigh perfect. It's great when I can use it but there's some models for which it's too much trouble (compared to abs or pla). If you can't remove the support, or can't add support in the right spot, then the object will be distorted - and functionally useless. Cura's "tree supports" helped a lot with this, in addition to painstaking tweaking. In my limited time with my printer I can say I've had more trouble with PETG than PLA, ABS and a little TPU (haven't used it much) combined. Although it helped when it came to getting TPU right the first time.
Wow you are the PETG king , Restored my faith as I've had various failures and had kind of given up and stuck to PLA but sadly it warps in the summer so going to try again in PETG
Nice work, I print petg, a lot. I like the opaque colors, it helps with the stringing and predictability. My nozzle is 245 my bed is 65. I coat the bed lightly (aqua net purple) before every print, I only scrape it smooth after every print, I don't even get all the hairspray off, it even covers finger grease! I only wash the bed every few kg. always sticks, always come off when done. My first layer is around 20-25 and my normal layers are usually around 40-45 mm/sec. unless the part has a ton of small features, then I turn back to 35mm/sec. I don't use a part cooling fan unless bridging then only about 30-35% fan. .4 nozzle .16-.2 layers. Direct extruder.
Great tips. I have been banging my head against the wall on a perfectly flat bed, and from you I learned I was trying to print way too fast. I dropped back to 25 (Ender 5, glass bed, Magicgoo) and it's bonding/building up nicely. Thanks
Still having trouble getting petg to stick to my glass bed. Hmm. Better get some painter's tape for when it does stick😲 Cura slicer's temperatures for petg were about 5 degrees lower than yours. I'll try it 5 degrees warmer.
Thanks mate. Yeah PetG can be a real pain and I've had mixed results with the stuff not sticking etc. I will take all of your advice on board and try it out. Cheers.
I actually just flipped my spring steel bed so i'm printing directly on the steel. and that's working GREAT. When the print is cooled a little it pops right off.
Retraction is 3mm ... 35m/s for a direct extruder setup. Print as fast as you can. I will try that. Did you ever play around with flow rate? Also, I am using the standard 1.75 diameter filament. Thanks and great video. Richard
I see your 1st layer speed is quite a bit lower than mine. I found with my Prusa Mk3 that PETG sticks to the plate way better than PLA, allowing me to step up the speed by quite a factor. 40mm/s is my go to speed (1st layer) now and if I'm feeling adventurous I bump it up even more. It really saves time on objects with a large flat base.
Please use 50/50 mineral spirit with ionized water to spray near the base where the petg touches the glass. They almost pop by themselves in 5-10 seconds. I use this method for more than 4 years now. Regular picture frame glass. I clean before every print with this solution and a napkin. First layer i squish as normal and no slowdown.
you mean i gotta clean the extruder? that's what I'm getting, it just curls up at the extruder, won't lay down on the glass. Can I get this stuff to stick to glass or do I need a pad? how do you get the slicer to lay down the first layer with different parameters? from the rest of the print?
I have heard Acrylic cement like weld on 3 or 4 works in cementing PETG parts together on a molecular level. I'm not sure if this is true but I have used weld on 3 and know it works excellent on acrylic. I'm going to try it myself pretty soon but was wondering if you had already tried this method for connecting PETG parts together?
Thanks for the tips, I'm very new at 3d printing and an avid woodworker and love seeing the jigs you are making. I enjoy making jigs as much as I do the work pieces so hope to master PETG.
Ive gotten some pieces to print with PETG on the Ender 3 PRO, but it actually took a spot of the black part of the bed off. I did some adjustments and now I cant get the filament to stick to the bed.
Excellent beginners guide. I have been working with PLA for 5-6 years and would like to try PETG for better UV/temperatur characteristics. I would still use PLA when it is suitable. Is it wise to use PETG with a dedicated printer, including hotend etc, or is it no problem to swap between PLA - PETG - PLA..... ?
I've been using petG with my 3-D pen. It's been working really well compared to other filaments that I've tried. I know the application and set up is even more different using a 3-D pen versus a 3-D printer, but I wanted to see if there were any resources to help me improve my work with petG. The projects that I'm working on right now is leading me to try to melt The PEtg filament to high enough of a temperature that I can pour it into small Molds. Do you have a recommendation for a temperature that will not scorch it while at the same time keeping it melted long enough to pour? Or is that even possible? Your video has been a great insight Into the characteristics of PETG! Thank you!
Hi Blaksin I hope my comment didn't sound as a form of privacy invasion your comment tells of a wonderful woman with a beautiful heart which led me to comment I don't normally write in the comment section but I think you deserve this complement. If you don’t mind can we be friends? Thanks God bless you….🌹🌹
Hello. Great guide on printing with Petg. I am having some trouble with my 3D printer. I have a Folgertech FT 5 R2 and I am getting what looks like some small minor underextrusion or filament skipping in the layers and also extrusion inconsistencies throughout my prints. I am using Makergeek’s PLA with the printer’s original extruder. I have already change the print speed setting from the default, which was print speeds of 60 mm/s, acceleration of 3000 mm/s^2 and jerk of 20 mm/s to the changed setting, print speeds of 30 mm/s, acceleration of 500 m/s^2 and jerk to 15 mm/s, from there being layer shifting and under extrusion problems at the default speed setting. this kind of worked but still my problem that I am asking about is still there. I don’t known if the problem is the filament, the extruder setup or my Cura Slicer Profile Settings. What is the best why way to solve this or a list of solutions I can try?
You could try increasing the flow to about 103% and if that makes a difference then you need to calibrate you E-steps. The standard extruder on the FT5 is very basic and I would recommend upgrading it, there are plenty around. I cant recommend the extruder I have on my FT5 because they are not made anymore.
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Tech Reviews. Thanks for the advice. Would you you recommend the E3D titan aero or Herma or the Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend? Also, with increasing the flow rate, could I also increase print speeds or no?
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Tech Reviews. Thanks for your advice from my previous question. Would you you recommend the E3D titan aero or Herma or the Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend? Also, with increasing the flow rate, could I also increase print speeds of my print or no? What print speeds, acceleration and jerk do you typically use on your Folgertech FT-5 R2 for PLA and PETG?
My biggest issue with PETG is that it gets all over my nozzle. It's the only material I'd like to print with for now. I had been printing at 250C for months, and had successes. But perhaps printing at so high a temperature, the material is attracted to the nozzle more so.
Correct. Lower temps have helped me preventing those blobs. Also, try a lower temp 1st layer and bump it up by 5 or 10 degrees for the next layers. The nozzle likes to cling to hot PETG at the base layer.
Old comment, but what I found fixed some of my PETG problems was actually having the nozzle further away from the bed, it doesn’t like to be squished down like PLA. High bed heat - 80-90C- makes sure it’s adhered even if not close to the bed.
Any idea why my first 3 or 4 layers seem to go down too thick and start rubbing on the nozzle and making a mess? After the bottom layer when it starts infill, the rest of the print is absolutely fine. It's like the PETG is expanding as it cools.
I have the same problem, still haven't figured it out. I think it might be moisture or just too much heat due to the bed being hot and the first few layers being too close to it.
With the filament sticking to the nozzle problem, I had a brand new stainless steel nozzle to print the PETG with, it still stuck to the nozzle in a ball. The only thing I can think off for this sort of problem is the nozzles need a coating of Non-stick on the nozzle face like Teflon then maybe that with help stop the sticking problems? So PETG is an hard filament to do right. I know so hard I may well not carry on trying to use it? Even ABS is big pain in the backside too! I even find PLA can be a sod to do even with the bed leveled and the Z height right. I've tried the Hair spray, the glue stick. I used ultra flexible textured bed and none of those hold on to the PLA neither known the ABS or PETG? It driving me nuts the amount of time , money and troubles I can see why 3D printing is just for the people who seem to have a gift for doing it well/ Us new to the hobby I think tend to try very hard and put in tons of hours of work spending tons of money on this possible great hobby and end up fed up at not getting it to work even with the advice from the experts. I maybe not carrying on with this hobby as I put tons in and don't get PLA to work.
Remove your nozzle, spray the external section of the nozzle with an extremely thin misting of cooking spray. Put your nozzle back without touching it too much with your fingers. Also, what surface are you printing on?
Great video. I just went through 3 hours of frustration. Tried bed at 70, 65 and 70. Tried nozzle at 190, 200, 205 and 210 and 220. Adjusted z offset and so can't get adhesion. I noticed you have much higher temps and slower speed so I'm going home to try that. Printers in 2024 are a lot faster so if you think there is a better speed based on current printers, like mine goes to 500mm/s, please let us know!
"It's hardly any harder than pla to get to stick to the bed"..... Hmm my hours of headaches and box of spaghetti says otherwise..... mabey I'm in the right place to :)
Am I the only one that stuggles to print petg at 230 or even 240? I print at 220 only 3 different printers fine, try and go any higher and plastic just oozes
i can vouch for petg sticking way too hard to the bed. my friend is really dumb but he thinks he is a bit of a printer guru cos he has the most expensive printer out of all of us. anyway i do my research and i knew that petg sticks too hard and so i told him he should not be squishing the first layer and then he completely thinks i am the dumb one. so he bet me that the petg wouldn't stick too much and then i bet him that if he doesn't think it will he should put his wang on the print bed and accept the first layer onto his p$n!s and so he said, OK for $100. We all said ok and then set up a print and the petg went straight down on his pecker and he was screaming and had to go to the hospital and indeed the Doctor said the plastic was very stuck to his purple helmet. he doesn't speak to us after that but i think he now sets his petg first layer height a bit higher cos he knows it sticks REAl GOOD. Ha ha ha
Finally someone says petg is not easy to print unless you've got things nigh perfect.
It's great when I can use it but there's some models for which it's too much trouble (compared to abs or pla). If you can't remove the support, or can't add support in the right spot, then the object will be distorted - and functionally useless. Cura's "tree supports" helped a lot with this, in addition to painstaking tweaking.
In my limited time with my printer I can say I've had more trouble with PETG than PLA, ABS and a little TPU (haven't used it much) combined. Although it helped when it came to getting TPU right the first time.
Wow you are the PETG king , Restored my faith as I've had various failures and had kind of given up and stuck to PLA but sadly it warps in the summer so going to try again in PETG
It’s like listening to an Australian Alfred Hitchcock. Good..evening....tonight’s show is about..PETG. Good job! Just found you, subscribed
save 8 minutes of your life by watching this at 2x speed.
1.5 is actually perfect
Thank you
I would love x3 here..
We are in Australia. I have to speak slowly so all the Americans can understand me lol.
@@TheHotEndChannel I'm not American so go ahead :D
Nice work, I print petg, a lot. I like the opaque colors, it helps with the stringing and predictability. My nozzle is 245 my bed is 65. I coat the bed lightly (aqua net purple) before every print, I only scrape it smooth after every print, I don't even get all the hairspray off, it even covers finger grease! I only wash the bed every few kg. always sticks, always come off when done. My first layer is around 20-25 and my normal layers are usually around 40-45 mm/sec. unless the part has a ton of small features, then I turn back to 35mm/sec. I don't use a part cooling fan unless bridging then only about 30-35% fan. .4 nozzle .16-.2 layers. Direct extruder.
Very helpful from the beginning. Your print parameters worked great. Thank you.
Good content! Will subscribe. I recommend that you put washers on the purple parts on your taper cutting jig
Great tips. I have been banging my head against the wall on a perfectly flat bed, and from you I learned I was trying to print way too fast. I dropped back to 25 (Ender 5, glass bed, Magicgoo) and it's bonding/building up nicely. Thanks
I'm Really glad I came across this video. I'm about to try printing with PETG for the first time and am sure your tips will help with the settings.
your settings work! new to printing so thanks for the info
Still having trouble getting petg to stick to my glass bed. Hmm. Better get some painter's tape for when it does stick😲 Cura slicer's temperatures for petg were about 5 degrees lower than yours. I'll try it 5 degrees warmer.
Loved the practical uses you've shown. I made a right angle jig with holes for magnets to hold the saw perpendicular to the work piece.
Thanks mate. Yeah PetG can be a real pain and I've had mixed results with the stuff not sticking etc. I will take all of your advice on board and try it out. Cheers.
so it turns a 4 hour print with pla into a 12 hour print with petg!
Thank you so much!!! As a beginner this was very usefull!
I actually just flipped my spring steel bed so i'm printing directly on the steel. and that's working GREAT. When the print is cooled a little it pops right off.
The most informative video yet on petg Thank you.
Elmer's Purple glue stick is great for this. After glue builds up then it can be easily washed for you can put down a new fresh layer.
I now print petg using 3dlac on glass bed at 40-50mm/sec 60-80C bed. Sticks well and "cracks" off when the bed cools after printing.
Finally My first and not Broken print with petg. It seems like all My fails was to high print speed😁 big thanks
Great tips. Managed to get the chinese ElCheapo PETG finally printing :-D
Thankyou :)
Thank you. Very clear explanations
i know this night be out dated but first layer on my PETG is 35mm/s perimeters and 50mm/s on the infill for the first and it prints nicely
I'm getting few spots and blops trying to print small models what do you recommend?
Retraction is 3mm ... 35m/s for a direct extruder setup. Print as fast as you can. I will try that. Did you ever play around with flow rate? Also, I am using the standard 1.75 diameter filament. Thanks and great video. Richard
I can confirm petg broke my printer glass from sticking too hard 😂
sticks particularly good to glas... yeah, better than I wanted. Missing some chunks of my bed now.
I accidentally bought it and this saved me 30 bucks my prints came out great
I see your 1st layer speed is quite a bit lower than mine. I found with my Prusa Mk3 that PETG sticks to the plate way better than PLA, allowing me to step up the speed by quite a factor. 40mm/s is my go to speed (1st layer) now and if I'm feeling adventurous I bump it up even more. It really saves time on objects with a large flat base.
Please use 50/50 mineral spirit with ionized water to spray near the base where the petg touches the glass. They almost pop by themselves in 5-10 seconds. I use this method for more than 4 years now. Regular picture frame glass. I clean before every print with this solution and a napkin. First layer i squish as normal and no slowdown.
I use the same method with great success. Never had any trouble getting a part from the bed. Genius whoever invented this method!
you mean i gotta clean the extruder? that's what I'm getting, it just curls up at the extruder, won't lay down on the glass. Can I get this stuff to stick to glass or do I need a pad? how do you get the slicer to lay down the first layer with different parameters? from the rest of the print?
I have heard Acrylic cement like weld on 3 or 4 works in cementing PETG parts together on a molecular level. I'm not sure if this is true but I have used weld on 3 and know it works excellent on acrylic. I'm going to try it myself pretty soon but was wondering if you had already tried this method for connecting PETG parts together?
Thanks for the tips, I'm very new at 3d printing and an avid woodworker and love seeing the jigs you are making. I enjoy making jigs as much as I do the work pieces so hope to master PETG.
Thank you. Appreciate hearing your experiences. Helpful.
Ive gotten some pieces to print with PETG on the Ender 3 PRO, but it actually took a spot of the black part of the bed off. I did some adjustments and now I cant get the filament to stick to the bed.
Excellent beginners guide. I have been working with PLA for 5-6 years and would like to try PETG for better UV/temperatur characteristics.
I would still use PLA when it is suitable.
Is it wise to use PETG with a dedicated printer, including hotend etc, or is it no problem to swap between PLA - PETG - PLA..... ?
I have used masking tape to my glass bed seems to work at the min fingers crossed 🤞 on my ender 3 v2
whats your bed level ?
@@TrzCinA122 it's Ender 3 Pro v2 glass bed, I now have a sovol magnetic flexible sv01
I've been using petG with my 3-D pen. It's been working really well compared to other filaments that I've tried. I know the application and set up is even more different using a 3-D pen versus a 3-D printer, but I wanted to see if there were any resources to help me improve my work with petG. The projects that I'm working on right now is leading me to try to melt The PEtg filament to high enough of a temperature that I can pour it into small Molds. Do you have a recommendation for a temperature that will not scorch it while at the same time keeping it melted long enough to pour? Or is that even possible?
Your video has been a great insight Into the characteristics of PETG! Thank you!
7:11 into the video.. (you do not need to glue petg) just use a soldering iron and plastic weld it together.
Or couldn’t you make like pegs or something to fit the pieces together?
@@chrinamint Sure you could.. Just from my experience fusing the plastic together is a simple quick method that has high strength.
I was your 1000 up like.
Thanks :)
Thank you sir!
livin the dream mate
Hi Blaksin I hope my comment didn't sound as a form of privacy invasion your comment tells of a wonderful woman with a beautiful heart which led me to comment I don't normally write in the comment section but I think you deserve this complement. If you don’t mind can we be friends? Thanks God bless you….🌹🌹
Great into and view
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Hello. Great guide on printing with Petg. I am having some trouble with my 3D printer. I have a Folgertech FT 5 R2 and I am getting what looks like some small minor underextrusion or filament skipping in the layers and also extrusion inconsistencies throughout my prints. I am using Makergeek’s PLA with the printer’s original extruder. I have already change the print speed setting from the default, which was print speeds of 60 mm/s, acceleration of 3000 mm/s^2 and jerk of 20 mm/s to the changed setting, print speeds of 30 mm/s, acceleration of 500 m/s^2 and jerk to 15 mm/s, from there being layer shifting and under extrusion problems at the default speed setting. this kind of worked but still my problem that I am asking about is still there. I don’t known if the problem is the filament, the extruder setup or my Cura Slicer Profile Settings. What is the best why way to solve this or a list of solutions I can try?
You could try increasing the flow to about 103% and if that makes a difference then you need to calibrate you E-steps. The standard extruder on the FT5 is very basic and I would recommend upgrading it, there are plenty around. I cant recommend the extruder I have on my FT5 because they are not made anymore.
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Tech Reviews. Thanks for the advice. Would you you recommend the E3D titan aero or Herma or the Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend? Also, with increasing the flow rate, could I also increase print speeds or no?
Thanks!
key settings:
3:00
3:05
3:10
4:10
7:10 gluing petg
7:40 painting petg
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Tech Reviews. Thanks for your advice from my previous question. Would you you recommend the E3D titan aero or Herma or the Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend? Also, with increasing the flow rate, could I also increase print speeds of my print or no? What print speeds, acceleration and jerk do you typically use on your Folgertech FT-5 R2 for PLA and PETG?
My biggest issue with PETG is that it gets all over my nozzle. It's the only material I'd like to print with for now. I had been printing at 250C for months, and had successes. But perhaps printing at so high a temperature, the material is attracted to the nozzle more so.
Correct.
Lower temps have helped me preventing those blobs. Also, try a lower temp 1st layer and bump it up by 5 or 10 degrees for the next layers. The nozzle likes to cling to hot PETG at the base layer.
Old comment, but what I found fixed some of my PETG problems was actually having the nozzle further away from the bed, it doesn’t like to be squished down like PLA. High bed heat - 80-90C- makes sure it’s adhered even if not close to the bed.
Any idea why my first 3 or 4 layers seem to go down too thick and start rubbing on the nozzle and making a mess? After the bottom layer when it starts infill, the rest of the print is absolutely fine. It's like the PETG is expanding as it cools.
That is a strange one - check your slicer settings.
I have the same problem, still haven't figured it out. I think it might be moisture or just too much heat due to the bed being hot and the first few layers being too close to it.
With the filament sticking to the nozzle problem, I had a brand new stainless steel nozzle to print the PETG with, it still stuck to the nozzle in a ball. The only thing I can think off for this sort of problem is the nozzles need a coating of Non-stick on the nozzle face like Teflon then maybe that with help stop the sticking problems? So PETG is an hard filament to do right. I know so hard I may well not carry on trying to use it? Even ABS is big pain in the backside too! I even find PLA can be a sod to do even with the bed leveled and the Z height right. I've tried the Hair spray, the glue stick. I used ultra flexible textured bed and none of those hold on to the PLA neither known the ABS or PETG? It driving me nuts the amount of time , money and troubles I can see why 3D printing is just for the people who seem to have a gift for doing it well/ Us new to the hobby I think tend to try very hard and put in tons of hours of work spending tons of money on this possible great hobby and end up fed up at not getting it to work even with the advice from the experts. I maybe not carrying on with this hobby as I put tons in and don't get PLA to work.
Remove your nozzle, spray the external section of the nozzle with an extremely thin misting of cooking spray. Put your nozzle back without touching it too much with your fingers. Also, what surface are you printing on?
Great video! Very insightful seeing your real world use of PETG. Could you share what brand of PETG filament you use?
We use Aurarum filaments, Australian company.
Great video. I just went through 3 hours of frustration. Tried bed at 70, 65 and 70. Tried nozzle at 190, 200, 205 and 210 and 220. Adjusted z offset and so can't get adhesion. I noticed you have much higher temps and slower speed so I'm going home to try that. Printers in 2024 are a lot faster so if you think there is a better speed based on current printers, like mine goes to 500mm/s, please let us know!
slow the first 2 layers down to 20/30 mm/2
"It's hardly any harder than pla to get to stick to the bed".....
Hmm my hours of headaches and box of spaghetti says otherwise..... mabey I'm in the right place to :)
New Drinking Game:
Take a shot everytime he says PETG.
Ah that's what the glue stick is for. I Just destroyed a print bed trying to remove a print. And then found this video.
first time petg user, and it crackles :/
This guy is a fucking god
Am I the only one that stuggles to print petg at 230 or even 240? I print at 220 only 3 different printers fine, try and go any higher and plastic just oozes
1.5x speed sounds like a normal voice
I will be speeding up all future videos to at least 1.25 from today onwards
We agree btw
Max Headroom
i can vouch for petg sticking way too hard to the bed. my friend is really dumb but he thinks he is a bit of a printer guru cos he has the most expensive printer out of all of us. anyway i do my research and i knew that petg sticks too hard and so i told him he should not be squishing the first layer and then he completely thinks i am the dumb one. so he bet me that the petg wouldn't stick too much and then i bet him that if he doesn't think it will he should put his wang on the print bed and accept the first layer onto his p$n!s and so he said, OK for $100. We all said ok and then set up a print and the petg went straight down on his pecker and he was screaming and had to go to the hospital and indeed the Doctor said the plastic was very stuck to his purple helmet. he doesn't speak to us after that but i think he now sets his petg first layer height a bit higher cos he knows it sticks REAl GOOD. Ha ha ha
Ahhhh 1.75 is a good speed to watch this at....
Actually a waste.of time.
just bought my first petg roll, i cant get it to stick 🥲