BEST TIPS FOR BETTER PRINTS WITH PETG | Everything you need to succeed with PETG filament
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2024
- Alec is here to walk you through the best practices for 3D printing with PETG filament. Start using this durable and reliable 3D printing material today!
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"PETG is as easy to print with as pla"
- me after 20+ of trying to print a single thing in petg-
*screaming intensifies*
I'm in the same boat as you... promoted like a miracle filament when it's still finicky
Same here. 20 prints of a large(310mmx290mm) flat part that .. even though I printed nozzle at 231 degrees it pulled my bed sticker up in the corners and they stayed there making that a high spot on the bed. i am on my third sticker.. no warping? yeah right.. also stringing becomes less of a problem faster retraction speed and enable coasting. A a silicone sock on the hot end keeps the strings from turning to blobs
Me too, lol...
@@kirkd6285 use Cura petg settings....I change retraction to 3 and speed to 145ms....240 nozzle and 70 bed.....nice smooth prints
@@MyEyeOnYou I sort of use these settings too, also fan off.. Like totally off from start to finish has worked wonders for me
I think that strength test was a win for the PLA.
Agree
That just goes to show that PETG doesn't actually have high impact strength compared to PLA. It does however have much higher tensile strength. I think they should've clarified it's strength properties a bit better.
Tomzuki I think you have it backward, PLA is almost #1 in tensile strengh but very low in impact resistance. ABS have hight impact resistance but low/average tensile strength. PETG is a midle ground in both (and this is not a good place to be in my opinion)
but for how difficult it is to print ABS, it's not even worth it.
th-cam.com/video/inzkJ34VMfk/w-d-xo.html
I printed a 1x1 x 4 block and adjusted the temp from 260 down on a cr10s pro. .04 nozzle .... adjusted the temp down as it was printing and when I hit 245c. It cleaned right up and stopped stringing and the surface was nice and smooth. Bed temp 60c. No nozzle fan. PETG Pro from MatterHackers in Black .... hope this helps out.
I know this video is a bit old now, but I wanted to see if people got any better results with stringing issues. I'm currently using MH Pro PETG (on my second kg - and no matter the brand or type of filament, every roll gets its own EM calibrated). MH recommends 245+/-10C for this specific type of filament. After multiple adjustments to retraction settings, I couldn't get rid of the stringing and additional blobs. I went back to the basic tests for temp. Printed at 225C (with manageable but still annoying stringing, remedied with a heat gun leaving some blobs), then at 235C (with severe stringing, not fixing without significant post processing i.e. sanding, filing, etc.), and finally at 220C (with very minimal stringing, easily remedied with a heat gun). After dialing in the temp, I then fine tuned the retraction settings (Retraction Length: 1.6mm, Retraction Speed: 70mm/s, Retract on layer change, Wipe while retracting and Retract amount before wipe: 60%) in Prusa Slicer (v2.2.0), and ensured that I enabled 'avoid crossing perimeters' and set the seam position to random. The result was a near flawless, stringless print of the two column stringing test (commonly found on thingiverse). Printing on a stock Prusa i3 MK3 with latest FW. I'm not completely sure if a drop in temp like that is significant enough to affect strength properties; I don't have the equipment to test that, but hey, at least the stringing is taken care of! I hope this helps. Happy Printing!
I have a permanent reminder on my PEI build surface of how petg likes to weld itself to the build plate. Learned my lesson the hard way.
Would love to see a PETG tutorial about post processing (glueing, sanding, painting)
Nice how you hammer an PLA example with the hammer at already weaker "window" part compared to the PETG thing.
PETG is stronger, for sure, but that demonstration was rediculous.
and in fact he hit the PLA harder than the PETG one if you watch closely.
I am new to 3d printing so I'm open to try different filaments. I have heard a lot of good things about PETG and you have convinced me that I should try it soon. Thank you for a continuing source of 3d knowledge.
I just printed my first parts tonight with it and i'm struggling getting it to stick to the bed well. I've been trying all temp options and still struggling...
THis was some good information. I am wanting to do 3D printing so this gives me something to think about.
Ty so much Alec! You are the first person in my journey to solve this thought in my head . I know this is an older vid but I’ve looked through a few now and no one mentions supports with petg . I am designing something that will need supports and it’s my first print with petg . Besides a Cali cube literally my first . I feared it would weld too well so ty for the air gap info!!!
I got my first roll of PETG. This helped a bunch. Thanks!
Alec, you sir are a life saver. Thank you for all your videos.
Great video. I would suggest that you add two things in your recommendations... 1. do you want to print enclosed like ASA or ABS or do you want to print open like PLA and 2. Are there any concerns about nozzle size or does it not matter? Oh, on a more personal note, thanks for the warning about PTFE tubes, I would have made that mistake this weekend without the warning. I will switch to my PEEK lined tube for this weekends experiments.
Great video! So much good info for a beginner! Where can I get that file for the bicycle helmet on the shelve behind you?
I have some Avistron German PETG and I am printing it at 217C through a PTFE lined hotend all day long. No problems and it works perfectly. Think it depends on the individual PETG you are printing. Great video as usual. Plus thanks for supporting Joel Telling.
Sonic Alchemy: A maker space - I’m printing at exactly the same temperature (217C) on a Ultimaker 2 extended+, which has a TFM coupler. I don’t get where his ‘need for an all metal hot-end’ advise comes from.
I currently use Real Filaments PETG (Dutch brand) on my Ultimaker 2 extended+. It took quite a bit of trial and error to get the right settings since Real Filaments advised 230C - 250C, so that’s the temperature range where I initially started. But now it prints beautiful and strong parts with hardly any stringing.
Since PETG has a much narrower temperature band in which it prints right, it indeed pays off to experiment with temperature settings from printer to printer.
Exactly. It really depends on the printer and space.
I have an LK4 longer. It prints aba, and petg very well. 240, 80 bed, painters tape on the glass, little glue stick, make sure you get a good first layer and bam! Strong, glossy, layers well. Time consuming, but pretty good material all around.
Hi! Very good tut!
I'm going to print PETG on a borosilicate glass surface. Will the glue stick help to make it safe (separated)?
Watch out for those extra key frames on the text inserts!
Informative video, guys! Definitely looking forward to printing some PETG in the future!
Just got an Ender 3 and was using PET-G as my first ever filament to experiment with and it has been difficult (1st layer difficult to stick/stringing/clogged my extruder once/ruined a would-be successful print because i didn't tighten my nozzle down enough after replacing nozzle allowing filament to extrude from the threads of the hot end). I've ordered some PLA to make life easier, will try the PET-G again once i become more experienced and maybe upgrade to an all metal hot end.
Loved the x-files surprise.
Great video. Are you saying that PETG print which breaks is a print temperature issue? Or can this also be a layer hight issue?
MatterHackers is a great group!! thanks guys!!!
As a complete 3D printing newbie, I bought a Bambu A1 Mini a few weeks ago, and have printed dozens of models in PET-G with perfect results every time. And I simply selected ‘Generic PET-G’ in Bambu Studio, haven’t changed any settings. It’s fantastic. I don’t think I’ll buy any more PLA (which also prints perfectly BTW) because for me there seems to be no advantage over PET-G.
I am a newbie printing a MPCNC with PETG on a stock Ende 5 pro. parts are coming out perfect.
To add to my post, I am also using the eBox by eSun filament dryer. I use it as a Dryer and a filament holder. Should I still run the Translucent orange Filament though my Food Dehydrator?
I know there is some good info here and it's a well made video. But dear lord those side burns are distracting as hell.
life is hard isn't it :(
What! This resource is amazing! Thank you so much! Do you have to process the clear petg to get it clear? Or was that pen holder just printed and good to go? If B i'm def in
I can say with 100% confidence that PETG stuff will not last in the car on a hot day. I made speaker pods and they melted and our outdoor temperature rarely gets above 33 degrees Celsius.
:25 "I think we good" LOL dude
Overall good video but I felt the need to point one thing out. You can’t do a stress test comparison between PETG and PLA by hitting the PETG lightly on a solid wall and then hitting the PLA harder and on a wall with a hole.
Hi i have ender 5 and have been having some fails with PETG... i ordered a capricorn bowden replacement tube...should this tube handle the heat better than the stock tube it came with.???.. i had some fails where petg broke during print a couple of times...thanks for your content.
To be honest, I've been getting the best results with PETG with only 235' at the nozzel. Anything over that and it becomes far too stringy.
I got PETG as my first filament for my first 3d printer and I had been wracking my brain on why It didn't work. I then saw an article that said it required higher heat and slower speed to make. Would have saved me some time to research that first. But I guess I can't blame anyone but myself for that one.
So what setting are you used when your print PETG? Do you leave it in PLA when slicing the object?
2:06 take that Thomas Sanladerer LOL
5:50 OMG, that comparison was organized by Crazy Russian Hacker. :D
Great video, thank you. I'm just getting in to 3d printing and this was very helpful.
thanks Alex!!!
What about cleaning the nozzle?
Not sure what PETG you're using, but I print mine on a stock Ender 2 with 225 - 235 °C and get perfect results. So far I've tried 'HD-Glass' from FormFutura and the PETG from DasFilament. The HD-Glass's recommended print temperature ranges from 195 - 225 °C and the PETG from DasFilament says 230 +/- 10 °C.
If I use a dry box for PETG will it wick moisture to the rest of the filament? I would like to make a dry box then leave just a small amount outside of the box for access. When I use it I will just cut off a small length before using. I cannot do this if the access length will wick the moisture to the rest of the filament.
Hi, can you give some info on the cetus3d and printing petg? I'm new to 3d printing and the Cetus is more or less tired to the Cetus app. I tried once to use gcode with it, it took me a while to get it back up and running. Please help if you can.
I'm printing a plane wing out of PETG with one perimeter, and it's warping the wing quite a lot. The bed adhesion seems fine, it's just that over time, the poorly supported skin of the wing (it's being printed vertically, so the bottom and top skin of the wing are to the right and left) is bowing inwards between the spars, and the spars themselves are being printed attached to the skin, so as the skin contracts, it's pulling the spars in slightly too, causing the frame to be warped as well. Any thoughts? I've tried printing with an enclosure, lowering the temps from the PrusaSlicer defaults, without really any difference in quality.
Thank you 👍
Very helpful. Thanks
I run a Capricorn bowden tube on an Ender 3 pro and I print PETG at 240/245 on a powder coated PEI metal bed sheet works fine comes off no problem. I tried an all-metal hotend and it kept clogging I had to buy a cleaning tool that's 1.75mm to clear it after 3 times I went back to the bowden. I had tried the blue tape never would stick to the bed plate it would pull up if the part warped. With the PEI I ran at 80C bed temp solved the warpage.
Is rice a good enough desiccant? As in rice in the bottom of a bin and filament in a sealed bag.
What should one do if they only have the normal hot end with the Teflon tube?
No issues whatsoever printing petg on my v6lite @240c. still gonna upgrade to a all metal though, to be able to go higher. Guess it depends on brand, using Addnorth petg. Parts come out perfect and durable
Here I am in 2020 using amazon basics PETG and printing with a PTFE-lined hot end at only 230c. I leave the part fan off, except for bridges where it runs at 40% which is about the minimum for the crappy fan on my printer. The parts aren't super amazing, but they are absolutely serviceable and way harder to break than the same parts I print in PLA. Essentially, I can print finer detail in PLA with less globbing and stringing, but for anything that isn't a fine-detail miniature I use PETG. If I'd print it at .2 or higher layer height, its better in PETG. If I'm printing at lower than .2, its going to matter how tolerant the print will be to blobs or strings... but I still might try in PETG first because its a better material overall IMO.
Great tip about the support though, it can be a real PITA to remove, I hadn't considered increasing the gap - seems obvious in hindsight!
All the video's on TH-cam shows ultimakers. But none of them working. Is only a box in the end doing nothing
With the hot end thing I use a capricorn tube and I have no issues on my ender 3
Question, most PETG I got have to low end of the temp ranges at 220... and it does work. Why so many people say it has to be above 250 C?
Different PETGs have very different temperature ranges. Depending on how much G they put in their PET, the material might print well almost at PLA Temperatures and start bubbling at above 240, or it might not even extrude at those temperatures and take 250 to print properly. There are no blanket rules for all PETG filaments.
Good video. Thanks
NIce, thanks for sharing :-)
does this setting good for DIY 3d printers?
I know you said that it's moster exorbitant and it affects looks but does it affect it's durability?
I like to use PETG for working parts, but it is not easy to print with. I have thin but dense stringing on the inside of curved surfaces and after time some excess material builds up on the surface of the nozzle. what later on sticks to the printed part . Any suggestions?
Right, nothing about that in the video, strange. I found that lowering the temperature can reduce stringing. Keep the hotend clean, I even added some oil to prevent the PETG to stick to the hotend.
up your retraction speed and or distance. lowering the nozzle temp will lower your layer adhesion. Which will make the parts weakers thus removing the point of printing petg. Something one can see in this video. That's why you shouldn't let other people read the script that some writes. Especially if they aren't an expert. Which might seem blunt to say, but taking into acount that they're a filament company is quiet funny.
235 and slower works for me 80mm
I have a (if I want) a closed cabinet, it could get quit warm in there. My default settings has the fans off for PETG. The videos I'm seen so far have not talked about the enclosure. Anyone offer some advise, Thanks?
I am trying to come to a conclusion for what I'm going to use for the bed. I think I'm at a glass with blue tape. is there any reason I shouldn't do that for PETG?
PETG from DasFilament (German Company) prints with 235 very well
"DasFilament (German Company)" Ya think?
I use even 240, the package tells 230 +-10C.
@@Leon-pm6lr even with 240 you dont have to worry about ptfe tubing, 240 is really no problem for bowden, what he said in the video is bullshit
i've used colorfabb xt on the ultimaker 3 and it took out a piece of the glass
Jenia Z. I hate XT it is the worst petg I ever have printed. I use esun petg a lot and it is the easiest to print ever.
Hey, my man. This was the best resource after watching about 10 videos about it. Good work, you deserve this space.
great vid! please help having problems getting it to stick to the blue tape. It worked on the first run now I can’t get it to stick it just rolls up in a ball. Bed at 90 print at 240. Any ideas?
Try leveling again.
Use elmers glue stick on the blue tape
I've been experimenting with PETG on my Ender3...but not too much luck yet. Mainly underextrusion. Been printing at about 250 for the hotend as per the label.
Any luck?
245c/60c/0fan....got it!!! Thanks Robert!
My problem with PETG is that there's little knots of the material (buggers) that show up. Some of the little bits look burnt. I'm using a Prusa I3 MK3S.
I thought it was funny that the PETG part broke apart more than the PLA part when hitting it with a hammer. FYI, PETG has really poor impact resistance, at least thats been my experience.
IMO it was a thin wall.
It was a very dumb "test" comparison. Pointless.
Haha! Yeah, i would have stopped the vid and started again! CUT!!!
Is PETG good to be used out side in direct sunlight for long periods of time without worrying that the colour will fade or the plastic will get brittle?
i want to make AQUARIUM DECORATIONS that will contantly be under water in FISH WATER... Can i safely use PLA without concern of dissolving in the water..
Vault-Tec! Brighter tomorrow...Today! ;)
PETG has not had the thermal resistance I hoped for. I made a door hanger with it and it warped after one day in the summer heat under the sun
Hi can I use it on Makerbot
We print a LOT of PETG, use 270C for better layer adhesion. Essentially no stringing with proper settings.
It's interesting reading this because it's quite varied what temperatures people claim are "the best for PETG" ... it is quite a large range.
can you say anything about Carbon Fiber PETG I found it a little more forgiving than NylonX, using many of your tips to get some great results. Can either one be annealed after printing to improve heat resistance?
PETG does not anneal. It's PET modified with glycol to prevent crystallization so it stays completely amorphous. This keeps it clear and prevents it from becoming brittle.
Do I need an all metal hot end or can I just use capricorn tubing that is rated to 300 degrees C?
Many people use Capricorn tubing. But there are additional benefits to an all metal hot end as well. Take a look over at CHEP for some of his breakdowns on hotends.
CNC Kitchen proved that desiccant can ABSOLUTELY pull moisture out of the filament. In his testing, desiccant was able to pull >70% of the moisture out that a dryer could extract
I print with a harden steel nozzle .4 on my prusa mk3s
Thanks.
I'm still pretty new to 3D printing. My problem is likely user error. I have an Ender 5. I have not done any upgrades so everything is stock at the moment. I am having one heck of a time getting PETG to stick to the bed and not to the nozzle. I'm going to pick up some hair spray to try next. I have been trying to print on painters tape and it won't stick to my bed. It keeps sticking to the nozzle. my printer will run a prime down the right side of the bed no problem but as soon as it moves over to my part it just won't stick to the bed. Any tips on how to fix that? I've tried a bunch of different things (different temps, slower speeds, etc.) but I just can't seem to get the first layer to stick to the bed. I'm printing PETG because I'm making custom kayak parts. From what I gather that is one of the better filaments to use for such things.
I do keep it in a dry box. I'm going to try and dry it out in the oven. I also picked up a Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated Wear Resistant Nozzle to see if that makes a difference. I just got it and have yet to try it.
Hope your ready for this *proceeds to smack the pla with like 8 times the force
Hi! Is two components epoxy able to glue PETG?
some not every
New to this, 1st printer and all, so I got confused on the bed talk. If the blue painters tape is put down for adhesion then is another layer (glue) still needed over the tape?
You do not need to apply glue to the blue painters tape.
If you have a heated glass surface (50-60°C) without painters tape, you can use unscented hairspray as an option. Again, if you do NOT have the painters tape.
Hope that clarifies! =)
I just use the cheapest sented hairspray I can get from local homestore or food market on top of painters tape, never had an issue with adhesion with PLA.
You don't NEED an all metal hotend for PETG, PTFE tubing is generally considered safe up to 250-260C, and frankly most PETG prints fine at 230-240 anyway. If you're concerned with it off gassing even the tiniest amount then I wouldn't print with it above 200C as that is when PTFE begins to off gas...
8:37
10% in-Phil
Not only do I print PETG for years now with a PTFE tube at 230°C but I also never had a problem with it being hydroscopic. So idk what you are talking about at that time ...
Got any other settings you use for it? Mine printed great right out of the box. It sat overnight and was doomed ever since. Dried it out in the filament dryer, adj temp, height of bed, speed. It gets stringy and globby. It is dried out.
What about sticking to glass?
that filament storage though!!!!!!
Think there is different pla , when I printed with ultimakers silver it was brittle. And now I bought other brands thats super strong , not even brittle just bows.
Silly question, but has anyone else noticed differences in printing with different colors in PLA??
so can you print PETG with a stock ender3 ?
yes i am right now
I just bought the PETG PRO. I bought it because of seeing CNC Kitchens repeated testing showing that PETG will yield before it shatters. MY PETG PRO from Matterhackers SHATTERS when I try to flex a printed sheet of it. I will reach out to customer service.
Not clear. You print PETG with bed temp 50-70 C and Blue tape on it ?
That moment when you just received $200’worth of filament in the mail, but you find out it won’t work in your printer because someone thought a lined cold-end would be a good idea 😔 😢🥺
No hate on this but those are some bad ass Patrick Stump side chops!
petg is weird how itll yeild, but if you chuck a test cube on the ground itll explode.
With every petg I had till now, I printed with about 230°C and it printed perfectly. Why does matterhackers petg need so high temperatures?
It's interesting reading this because it's quite varied what temperatures people claim are "the best for PETG" ... it is quite a large range.
Will PETG print on an Ender 3 ?
Yes
Stress me out I'm printing kinda small volume objects and I just removed it and immediately it shatters.........
Anybody figure out how to turn old pop bottles into new print material?
5:49 that's not even a fair comparison because the parts being hammered at (with arm strength inconsistencies) aren't even of the same geometry to begin with