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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.พ. 2024
- Welcome to our TH-cam tutorial on how to perform mid-print filament changes and achieve stunning dual-color 3D prints using Creality Print software! If you’re a beginner or seasoned enthusiast looking to add more dimension and creativity to your prints, this guide is for you.
In this step-by-step tutorial, we’ll walk you through the process of adjusting G-code directly from the sliced file within Creality Print slicer. Unlike other slicing programs, Creality Print doesn’t have a built-in feature to modify G-code, but fear not! We’ll show you how to use simple text editing tools like TextEdit on Mac computers or Notepad++ on PC to make the necessary changes.
You’ll learn:
1. How to identify the layers for filament change in your sliced file.
2. Editing G-code to pause the print at the desired layer for filament change.
3. Safely swapping filaments mid-print without compromising the quality of your model.
4. Tips and tricks for seamless dual-color 3D printing with Creality Print.
5. How to resume printing after filament change and achieve flawless transitions between colors.
Whether you’re printing intricate models, personalized gifts, or colorful prototypes, mastering mid-print filament change and dual-color printing opens up a world of possibilities. Join us in this tutorial and unleash your creativity with Creality Print! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe for more helpful tips and tutorials. Let’s get printing! #crealityk1 #k1max #crealityk1max #klipper #crealityprint #creality #filament #filamentchange
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Best explanation over all internet, seen many, not one close
Thank you so much! Glad you liked it
Works like a charm! Thanks!
Glad the video helped you out 😎😊
Great info, thnaks! This is the most streamlined short tutorial I have seen in the 3D Printing space, short but very clearly explained, great! Subscribed 😊❤
Thank you so much! These tutorials are definitely meant for people like you and I, who want the information as soon as humanly possible! Lol. Thanks again, and welcome to the journey
Great tutorial, all the essential information condensed without any long-winded ramblings. Very nice! Makes you want more videos in this style. Keep it up! Subcribed.
Thank you so much and happy I can help. Welcome to the Journey. Thanks again for subscribing!
Awesome! Thank you for the tutorial.
I’m glad you liked it!
Brilliant. Great short video with very precise detail. Nice work.
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it!
Clearly explained and straight to the point. Subscribed!
Thank you so much! Welcome ❤️
Really good video, quick to the point
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Thanks for the info! I may still root my printer but at least now I can try pausing prints to do various things. 👍
Absolutely. I’m glad you found the information useful! ❤️
I am considering getting a K1 Max. What is the reason & benefit of rooting? Would that affect the warranty on a new machine?
Gained a sub from me my man. Thanks for the quick to the point no nonsense tutorial.
Thank you so much. I’m glad you liked it
What a God! Appreciate you my dude
Of course. I’m glad you liked the video
Thanks for the info. Subbed
Thank you so much for joining the journey
Orca does this in a visual way. Then you can forward the code through Creality print. Way easier
Orca Slicer seems likes it’s going to be the awesome game changer as far as slicers. I’m going to start testing it out this week actually.
I'm looking to mix ABS and TPU in some functional prints.
This trick might just be the ticket.
Thank you so much for watching. Let me know how that comes out. It can be tricky because ABS needs to remain at temperature while it prints and requires a higher temp to print. TPU can be printed at its highest temps around ABS’s low to mid range temperatures, but may have some stringing issues. And, that’s if the ABS doesn’t begin to shrink once you open the enclosure and let the heat out. If you calculate things correctly, I’m sure you can get it done. Please let me know how you make out
great info! Personally it would be nice if that functionality were built into the machine software. Like if you could tell it to pause for a filament change at layer x and it would do that and automatically unload the filament.
Absolutely. Most software seems to be a Cura Slicer clone. The least they can do is clone everything. These work arounds are great, but the original software functionality would be nice
@@JeDoVi3D What about Orca Slicer?
I understand that it works well with the K1 series.
Does it have a "pause at layer" option or like Cura, are there plugins that do different things?
Cura has a plugin to do just this. You go to the layer you want the change, click on the plugin and it puts the pause there.... and in as many places as you like too.
I wonder if Creality Print is a "cloneISH" of Cura. I understand that the K1 series uses Klipper and not Marlin.
But I understand too that Cura CAN be made to play nicely with Klipper after some modifications and some things disabled.
Now I wonder if someone has already made a "plugin" that does all the things necessary to make Cura work well with Klipper!? Hmmmmm
There is 3dchamelion device, it can change materials in auto mode. But I don't try it, because I only bought k1 max few weeks ago. But when I get some knowledge I will try it.
I’ll see about purchasing this as well and doing a review. Seems interesting
NIce, with Orca slicer is faster. You can edit gcode without leaving the slicer. Thanks
Nice!
Thank you so much
Nice. Thank you. Where can I get that butterfly STL?
Thank you for watching. Join Flexi Factory Patreon. It is exclusive to their members
Very interesting!
Also, this should be totally embarrassing for Creality that they didn't include a simple PAUSE option right in the slicer!
It's literally the easiest thing to code!
I don't have a K1 Max yet, but I'm getting close to buying one.
This info is super helpful as I love to print colors.
Your design on that butterfly and wings is just incredible!
Let me ask you, as you have the K1 (or Max??) how do you like it?
Is it less problematic than a lot of other printers that seem to have constant problems that affect workflow?
Thanks in advance.
It absolutely is a major drawback in their software. I use Creality Print because it has the correct profiles for both the K1 and K1 Max. I definitely wish they had a filament change and options to modify g code within the slicer.
The butterfly design is actually made by a 3 D designer named Flexi Factory. Check them out on Myminifactory.com.
I have the K1 and it is a great printer. No 3D printer will always work perfectly all of the time, but just like my bambulab printers, the Creality K1 has been extremely efficient and affective out of the box. It’s fast and accurate, giving you parts and models that quality printed. It did have some extruder issues, but Creality replaced them with the upgraded models and I haven’t had a problem since. I love my K1
@@JeDoVi3D Thanks for that.
To date, I haven't heard anyone say that they hate their K1 series.
You mention "accurate". That is something I'm looking for.
I mostly make nice cases for the gadgets I design. I usually use Nextion displays (with Arduino or ESP32) and with my POS printer, no matter how much tweaking or adjusting I do, in printer's firmware or in Cura, I can not get the 4 screw holes 100% accurate.
I can get it close and I work with that.
But "accuracy" is something that could push me into buying the K1 Max.
i almost went out to buy it last yesterday, but I held off. LOL
But it could happen any day now. anyyyy dayyyyy nowwwww. LOL
Lol. Yes, everything I’ve created to size has worked to my measurements. The Creality K1 and Bambu Lab X1C have been very accurate
Thank you
Absolutely. Thank you for watching
soo cool man, that i have a quest, In the case of printing on the same layer, different colors? In this case, I have that mini army jeep in mind, would there be any solution?
Thanks. I’m glad you liked the video. I would have to do some research to see if this works, but…
use the layer slider to find the layer you want the change to occur.
Once on the layer use the Step Number Slider to find the location
Go to the G-Code button in the G-Code Preview menu
The location should be highlighted. Place your pause g-code above that location when you edit the g code
Nice thanks
No problem! Anytime!
Very interesting and well explained! I had this problem: the printer resumed the printing displaced about 4mm in y direction (towards the front of the printer) ¿is that normal? ¿Can I try something to avoid this? (Creality Ender 3 V3 KE) Thanks a lot!
The printer may have physical shifted when you changed out the filament. It doesn’t home when you hit resume, so it could have moved in the process. Keep me updated if it happens again
A question about that pause thing.
Again, I don't have a K1 Max yet, but I'd like to know:
- when paused, does the extruder just pause right where it was and not go home?
- if it paused right at the point where pause it, does code to RETRACT need to be added so no blob of filament flows out (gravity) ??
- when paused, does the hotend and bed stay hot or are those turned off temporarily/
Thanks in advance.
Hey there. When the printer pauses, it will move the nozzle to the side. Then. You press retract to remove the filament. Install the new color, press extrude to feed the color through the nozzle. Remove the excess purged filament, and press resume on the print. It will go back to the location where you paused it and continue printing
@@JeDoVi3D During this time, does the hotend and bed remain hot?
I've heard that on some printers, when it moves to allow filament change, the hotend and bed goes into cool down mode.
Does the K1 series do that?
@@JeDoVi3D Makes sense.
Do the printer go into cool down mode where the bed and hotend start to cool?
Or does it keep the heat going for both, during this pause cycle?
No. The bed remains hot, but the nozzle cools down to prevent oozing. When you retract the nozzle heats up and when you extrude the new filament in, it heats up as well. Then it starts to cool down until you hit the resume but. After that, it heats back up to printing temperature when you press resume. I’ve also had issues with the nozzle not heating up, but it was because the ceramic heating block was defective. Creality also replaced that free of charge. I should really do a review on this printer. There where definitely some issues but, I do have the early release model
Hey@@BlondieSL The printer remains hot. The bed needs to stay that way so the filament won't contract and come off of the build plate. The constant heat maintains the bed adhesion
I struggled with this on my k1, eventually got it to do as i wanted, how come yours is different to the other vids where everyone else says
Layer 5:
PAUSE
It seems like they wanted their filament change at Layer 5. So essentially, they would pause it at the end of Layer 4, right before the time elapse command. My Layer number wasn’t at 5, because my filament change ended up at a different layer number.
@@JeDoVi3D I didn't mean layer 5 in particular I just chose a random number , every other vid is after the layer command, which is the way I've done it. I was trying to work out what the difference is between doing it your way and typing pause after layer. Not here to argue just trying to figure out the best way, definitely giving your way a try tonight.
Oh ok. Was a bit confused. Ok, so I placed the pause at that location because I wanted the printer to stop exactly before the color change. If you place it after, it will print that layer, and then stop. I tried it at the layer I wanted the change to occur and it totally bypassed the command. When I experimented a little more I noticed you have to start it right before the time elapsed line. That worked perfectly for me from all of my other test. And I appreciate the question, I know you’re not trying to argue. It’s all love Trev. Thank you so much!
One more thing, I placed it at the very end of the previous layer because I didn’t want the existing filament to go into the next layer at all. If you place the PAUSE command at the layer you want the filament change to take effect, I’m sure it will be the same effect. That’s if you put it under the layer number its self, but before the printing gcode. My original mistake was putting PAUSE right before the layer number, which cancelled the following gcode information into the layer. If that makes any sense. But I’m sure the technique you suggested earlier works just as well as the one I suggested
@@JeDoVi3D worked like a treat, Danny below us sent me the link, ill be sharing also, great find thank you for the help