SHATTERING Expectations - K1 Max Review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ธ.ค. 2023
- I've had a lot of hits and misses with the Creality K1 Max but lets see if it actually lives up to the hype! Large Fast 3D Printer that might be perfect for cosplayers!
Checkout the Creality K1 Max
Amazon - amzn.to/3Nlk9PC
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Files by
Giant Lego Wreath by MandicReally
than.gs/m/966831
Giant Spiralized Sphere by DaveMakesStuff
than.gs/m/965238
Collapsing Drill Sword by 3DPrintingWorld
than.gs/m/907290
Skeleton Santa By Wekster
/ wekster
Loki Crown & Redhood by Yosh Studios
/ yoshstudios
Juggernaut Bust by Eastman
/ eastman
ScareCrow Masks by 3D Craftsman
/ 3dcraftsmanshop
K1 Orca Profile by Ripley
www.printables.com/model/5364...
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#3dprinting #Redhood #UncleJessy - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Love seeing you give a shoutout to Aurora! She's forgotten more about printers than most of that have been using them for years. She's amazing at her age and love her thoughts during her reviews.
Agreed Love Aroura!
Love you work as always! Thanks for plugging my Patreon again!
Quick note - that Redhood Helmet is by Yosh Studios - I had it tagged wrong in the video www.patreon.com/yoshstudios
Also, there were instructions in the bag the door handle came in my unit.
Congrats for the video.
Finally someone is talking about the Aurora Tech channel, which I have been following for a few years and which I have always rated among the best when it comes to technical reviews.
If you need to buy a printer, this is an absolutely must-see channel.
Underrated channel that I hope to see grow soon
Wow thank you so much for sharing. I have been fighting with my K1 max for a couple weeks, tweaking settlings, etc. Printed perfectly!
I picked my K1 up 2 weeks ago. It's been running every day since. I'm extremely happy with the prints I've gotten so far.
Great review! Thanks so much for including my Giant Spiralized Sphere model... better luck next time 😂😍
Thank you for telling it like it is and not only sharing your successes but your fails as well, I really enjoy watching your channel! I've had my K1 Max for about a week now and can honestly say when it works, it works great. The auto leveling is huge coming from an Ender 3 Pro Plus, but one of the issues I keep coming across is the extruder filament retainer latch will randomly disengage leaving the printer running without actually extruding filament. I'ts pretty frustrating as you won't get a failed print notice. I really hope Creality creates a fix for this as it leaves you unshure of having success with this pretty expensive printer. All and all it's an amazing printer and I hope Crealiy continues to build on the reliability aspect!
Great job actually showing up how long these models take to print, it's always something I want to know on these kinds of videos
First upgrades I did with mine,, hinges, a riser for the top to give the bowden tube clearance. Love this machine. makes my 2 CR-6's dinosaurs . Thanks for the video.
So far I've loved mine. I did have some bed adhesion issues, but once I set a z-offset on my printer profile in Creality Slicer, the adhesion has been fantastic and prints have been working really well. I think the inability to adjust the Z mid print when you can see your squish is too light is a missing option. However setting the offset in the gcode is an easy work around to dial it in.
Your video really helped in deciding on what to purchase. Thanks!
You can configure Orca slicer to show the K1 page on the devices tab, yes! Check the IP on the printer itself, and add that on the "connection" part in the slicer. (The wifi symbol next to the edit printer drop down menu). It should show the K1 webpage, where you can import and start prints.
you can still upload files wirelessly and control some things of the printer wirelessly by writing the printer IP (found in the wifi settings tab on the printer) in your browser, without additional software.
This IP can also be used to connect it inside orcaslicer itself, but it does not allow you to directly transfer gcode. You have to export it from orcaslicer first, then hit the import button on your printer interface
Just got mine a few days ago and its been great. Just as fast as my P1S and print quality has been great. Mine has all the first issues fix even has the fixed extruder and fixed hotend. Micro Swiss is sending me their upgrade hotend for a review and install video. Great vid as always sir! The Slicer has always worked for me all my prints have been sent this way. I printed a riser and if you could shared the top mount spool holder id like to feed direct and just bypass the sensor and ptfe tube.
Its a great machine. What I did is use Bambu Studio also for the K1 Max. I created a copy of the Bambu P1 profile, Bambu PLA Filament profile and Print profiles for 0.4mm 0.08 to 0.2 layer height. Exact copies and the prints come out amazing.
I love this new generation of printers. Finally somebody like Bambu came along and changed the playing field. Now Prusa and all the others have to keep up and change their super dated i3 bed-slinger design, FINALLY. I have been sooo waiting for this. I personally got the Flashforge Adventurer 5M. This machine was by far the cheapest and in my opinion it does not get enough love. It´s a fantastic machine for the price.
I am ecstatic too. 3d printer companies were getting fat and lazy and just pumping out the same thing over and over again. Bambu shot so far ahead of everyone else that it's not even funny. If someone is asking about 3D printing I tell them to just buy a Bambu. Any other printer that has something going for it only has 1 or 2 things that it can compete with Bambu, but Bambu has so much I just can't recommend anything but Bambu. I'm sure some day other companies will catch up, but that's not right now.
I picked up a k1 a few weeks ago and rooted mine the next day. As soon as Creality allowed us to root it, the printer became something I wanted. I am quite happy with it now. The fact I can send prints wirelessly from Orca to the k1 is great. And once you have stock klipper running the experience is very much improved. The fact you can also fix the imput shaper issue is also great. I really wanted the k1 max but it was out of my budget.
What input shaper issue?
@AlexanderSmith600 it is regarding the fact stock creality on used the x axis values twice. Instead of using x and y values. It's been a few weeks now so I can't remember all the details mind you. 3dprintsos did a video on it as well. I would suggest you take a look. Maybe on the latest update from gillouz k1 github and the script solved that. I remember having to change my imput shaper values manually on one of the cfg files.
@@AndyRC I found a video on what macros to apply and it seems to work.
Awesome! I got a cr10s as well that I have had for a few years was my second printer. It uses a 32 bitboard tmc2208 drivers, hemera e3d hotend and linear rails. Prints ok but don't think I'd go with creality anymore, Bambu has my vote next.
What a PANE to have happened on the stream. You’ve shown great humility through all this. One might say TEMPERED.
Seriously though I’m considering the K1 Max when I upgrade from the Ender 3 Pro this spring. Thanks for featuring it and giving the honest review. Love your channel, man!
Nice camera, the video is crisp and clear.
If you continue to use the side mounted spool holder you may want to add some padding on the back. The vibrations of it hitting the side have a super small chance of breaking the glass as well.
I got mine on Black Friday for $535, and that came with four spools of filament. I installed the Micro Swiss Flow Max hot end on it before printing. I also rooted the printer using Willow's guide and am using Orca Slicer, sending my files over the network. It's been great so far.
There was a brief sale on Amazon at that price, bundled with four spools of PLA.
i am debating on getting the micro swiss hotend but apparently there's different revisions of the K1 Max as Micro Swiss offers 2 versions of the hotend.
I'm tempted to get a larger format printer like this, but haven't quite been able to justify it yet. I keep hoping bambu comes out with an X2 or something.
We have several in our shop and we LOVE the K1 Max up to this point, not withstanding, one of the printers mother boards went out but Creality is working to resolve the issue. Still love the speed and quality overall though.
Have had a K1max from the initial launch. First print was a full-size Mando helmet and the finish was awesome. I personally have had no issues with the Creality software but I can see why others may have. The only issues I've had are filament related.
I will say though since printing some TPU spacers and manually adjusting the bed to within 0.15mm of level it's much better in adhesion for the first layer.
IU have an Ender 3 S1 pro running klipper and a Bambu P1S. I LOVE my ender 3. Creality really is a staple in the 3D print world. The bambu speed and quality tho is second world good right out the box. I have been very interested in this K1 max...maybe my next investment down the road. I have so much tech and equipment I really need to get of my ass and start a channel. Thanks for another info filled quality video...as always!
I've got the regular K1, I couldn't afford the Max. I've got a Neptune 4 Max for big stuff anyway. I wanted this for FAST stuff. Rooting the K1's is the secret (its easy!), setup KAMP, Octoeverywhere for your failure detection and remote access, then use Fluidd to upload files, etc. Orcaslicers default K1 profiles are bad, but I found a good one that brings the printer up to speed properly. It's a fantastic printer. Wish I could have got the Max though, but even on the big sales lately, it just wasn't in the budget. I'd take a K1 with root over a P1P unless you need colour. At least its a good printer if you got the Post-Beta models lol. First thing I did was print a side-mounted spool option. You are bang-on, mounting the spool at the rear was PURELY done for aesthetics because it looks tidy, but it's obnoxious to use that way. Mounted on the side it's totally fine.
Oh yeah, definitely get rid of that stock plate. Gotta have a classic gold texture PEI plate. Cheap and easy for the regular K1 at least, not sure about the Max though. Gotta be one somewhere in that size.
You need to start using “strong” option for tree supports and up the SUPPORT brim width (in the support section not the regular brim!) to 10-15 so the base of the tree support isnt tiny. This makes the support much less likely to snap if they get hit or something. I feel like it’s a must for helmets or big prints. If you try it you will see what i mean
I suspect I have the same issue with my Bambu P1S. Often go out to spaghetti monsters after a tree support has disappeared… Will give it a go and see.
I just got a K1 Max about a week ago and it's been printing great. Ran a bunch of Warhammer 40k Boltgun parts on it pretty flawlessly, but I'm running around 250-300mm/s using their hyper filament. I'll have to look into that top mod. It's indeed annoying having the spool in the back. The angle of the tube is also awkward and needs a bit better routing. Otherwise it was super easy to set up and I've been having minimal issues with Creality Slicer. It's nice being able to push files directly to the printer. I'm using the pad on my old upgraded Ender 5 Plus and others.
I've had my K1 Max for a few weeks and it's running well but it is a bit fiddly. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a beginners first printer. Like a lot of Creality printers, if you're comfortable tinkering, modding, rooting and making new slicer profiles, it can be a good printer.
But which large bed enclosed printers is better and better for beginners? Every printer out there have people saying it is bad.
The bamboo labs printer is the best for beginners from what I have been reading. @@northernlight8857
Holy moly. I love that you called out AuroraTech. Those two "kids" are amazing.
i 3d printed a zelda collapsing sword and after using default settings it turned out well! but i believe it build supports inside the blade because theres a raddle. but this video is super informative even for me having a k1 max! i got it as well for build volume because of wanting to do cosplay horns and masks!
Creality now ships the printer with a spool holder in the internal memory that you can print. It looks like Chep's version.
Hey Uncle Jessy, with those layershifts on the Santa model I think it may be the same problems as on the Bambu lab. Grid infill and fast print speeds can give problems with the nozzle hitting the infill when moving fast over it to start the next layer. So as the nozzle is scraping over the infill at high speed it can give a layer shift. I now mostly use Gyroid infill and never had the problem sinds. Some people even had there nozzle bend on there bambu.
Edit: Bambu Lab Wiki even noted this problem: " Some infill patterns (such as Grid, Triangles, etc.) have crossings within a single layer, so the nozzle will scratch the infill at the crossing point, which usually does not have much impact on the print. And if this does happen and affects the adhesion of some printing, you can try to slow down the infill printing speed or change the infill pattern without crossing points, such as Line, Rectilinear, Gyroid, or Concentric."
I printed 5000h with grid infill. But you have to do a max flow test/calibration. Orca slicer has one for example.
If you set the flow limited past the max flow rate the hotend and filament can support, the infill will not get printed properly. Gyroid will print better because you don’t reach max flow because of the wiggle that infill has.
Got mine on sale with coupon code for just under $700. Clearing out space to set it up today.
Just unpacked it today. We also own two CR6SE's with extruder upgrade, and the speed of this thing is very impressive. CR6SE is so slow once you see the K1 MAX in action. On the "Normal" setting in Creality print, with gold silk PLA which I just took from a CR6SE, it prints something which would take 6 to 7 hours on the CR6SE in less then 1h30 on the K1 MAX. Just flabbergasted when we saw it move, and with the hyper PLA it's even faster.
So far no misses with the prints from the K1 MAX and tinmorry silk PLA. Als bought some official creality gold silk pla which is less saturated and more orange, but really curious.
I’ve never had a print failure yet and I use the Creality slicer. The only problem I had is a small peace of filament gets pulled off when you are putting it back through the run out sensor and then when you load new filament that peace gets stuck right before the hot end and I had to take it apart to remove it. Other than loading filament it’s been an awesome printer.
Hi, Great video thanks. What is the energy usage in money terms... ie, how much energy would you use to print one of those amazing helmets.
Bonus points for giving Aurora a shout out!
I joined the Patreons still can't find the K1 (max) profiles mentioned in the video and in the description?🤔
Hello. Up your bed temperature to 60c and clean any glue stick on your heat bed, running warm water, I use washing detergent for dishes, and a sponge, then dry it using a fibre cloth . I clean the heat bed after every print and apply fresh glue stick. Cheers
i never even used the stock build plate. immediately got a few PEO and PEI plates off amazon and have very few adhesion issues (only with petg actually)
creality slicer has worked flawlessly for me, not fiddling with SD cards or thumb drives has been amazingly convenient
upgraded the LED light system about 2 weeks into my time with the printer, worth every penny
also (after seeing your glass door fiasco) i printed 270 degree hinges before the printer even arrived
I bought creality's textured PEI plate off amazon and it works well for me.
Love the title! 😂
I have had great luck with creality print! (Creality slicer is not for this printer). At one point I had issues when the printer rebooted and changed its IP address. I had to delete the printer and reboot it to clean something up (I don't know what) and I was able to re-add the printer. I got smart and gave it a static IP on my network and no troubles since!
Ive had ny k1 max for about a month now and its been awesome to print with
Breaking the glass door and getting a replacement door + another K1 Max.... privileges are nice if you have them :D
I just picked one up, I got cyber Monday deal for 500 and couldn't pass it up. I really needed a new printer, now I have to figure out to use it, LOL... UJ do you have any tutorials on your patreon for using orca Slicer? Does orca work on Mac?
Uncle Jessy, I'm SUUPER new to 3d printing, is there a place you suggest starting to learn how to make, create, or scan your own specific prints?
Thank you, love your channel
I like your reaction to the door glass broke. It so calm... wth
I have a K1 (not the MAX), and have had no issues using Creality Print. Coming from Cura it took a bit to figure out how to use Creality Print, but once I did all the prints have been great, considerably better than my Ender 3 series print. One thing I have found is that using a glue stick as Creality instructs is a good idea. One reason to use Creality Print is for the side fan control. I imagine that other slicers will eventually support the K1 series, but for now Creality Print works well. I added the optional AI camera, and it works well.
I agree the mobile app is full of stuff one doesn't need or want, but it is convenient to monitor a long print when I'm away from home. One feature missing it the LiDAR that's on the K1 MAX. Creality told me (via e-mail) that it's coming an to keep checking their store.
I have this printed, it's awesome we use it at work as well
Lightly clean your build plate with Dawn dish liquid, and a scotch bright pad, Lightly. dry with paper towel.
I never had a adhesion problem with this plate, use glue stick to keep the print from damaging the build plate surface.
The glue stick act as a protection.
Plastics have some oil in them, and penetrate the build plate, always clean you build plate with water, and Dawn dish soap.
You'll be happy with the success😃
I use the creality slicer, haven’t had any problems so far.
I had that exact problem with the filament PTFE tube
Hey, try a power failure print. That doesn't work either. It causes a layer shift everytime. The head is just moving to fast and is so far out of whack when the printer comes back on. It doesn't do anything to re-home itself before resuming. On a core xy it would be pretty easy for them to drop the z by 20mm and then rehome the head then put everything back where it was.
Ouch yeah that definitely sucks. I was happy to see my filament runout/swap didn’t cause any significant issues
Hey at least the spool holder isn't on the bottom of the machine. 🤣🤣🤣
Great video. Now my debate starts. P1S with an AMS or the K1 Max.
Good ScareCrow print! 3dCraftsman is awesome!
It’s gorgeous!
Thanks homie
I see on that Santa Skull you're using grid infill with silks. I've had problems with that combination several times on multiple printers, and have pretty much switched to gyroid infill for EVERYTHING now. Silks seem like they swell just a tiny bit, and can cause collisions with the nozzle where they criss-cross (it's a fairly well known problem on Bambu printers, and causes bent nozzles on those, or knocked over prints). That could very easily be the issue you've had with the strange failures you're getting with the K1 Max as well... With Gyroid, it doesn't ever criss-cross and you get the benefit of stronger infill with less percentages as well.
maybe make some side panels like you did with the kickstarter encloure?? Take the Glass off and place the plastic panels
im looking for my "ultimate printer". One that can do full helmets and preferably isnt a bed slinger. Also one of the fast printers. I have been eyeing this one alot recently and I might pull the trigger
If you're a Klipper veteran, rooting this unit and uploading Fluidd to repair Creality's incorrect resonance test (copies the X to the Y value instead of individual tests) will fix the majority of these issues minus mobile. That said, if you're at home - great to access and view all of them.
I haven’t had any bed adhesion issues, but no glue or foreign adhesive has been used on my bed. All I do is wipe it with isopropyl
Where is magneto? Did the project run into a snag, did you abandon it, or just good old procrastination (I definitely understand that.)?
Way to start the video. When I tell you, my jaw dropped so fast lol.
I'm waiting for a good orca slicer profile to switch. All my problems have been with orca and never with creality print. yes, is super limited and lacks so many features... but slices well for these printers. I've had no print failures with creality print with over 50hrs of prints in PLA and some 10hrs each with PETG and ABS
curious what the best large volume printer is in terms of minimal clean up and reliability in prints?
At 4:30 you said it's all glass panels including on the sides. I thought the sides were plastic instead of glass?
I have 3 of these and they really are great printers. 1 of the 3 did have a board go bad after only two months but Creality is solving the problem. I will definitely buy another. My Prusa XL does have better quality prints but you can't beat the speed of the K1Max.
Do you recommend the Prusa XL for a guy who just wants great prints with minimal fuss? I'm low on free time these days and would rather be printing reliably than tinkering.
@@justinyippo3621 Yeah, it's a great printer. Not the fastest but definitely fast enough and big enough. Mine has been incredibly reliable.
Just remove the ptfe from the filament sensor to the extruder and you will have n cloggs. You will just need to add a small part of ptfe at the entrance of the extruder and at the output of the filament sensor.
Get some G10 and cut it to size. Did that for the S1 Plus and it gets great adhesion with no problems at all.
You don't have to root to send files wirelessly via orca anymore. Creality issued a new fw update.
Ive had jothing but issues with mine and spent 3 months dealing with the creality help team to get it up and running and even that has been an insane pain. In the mean time i tried a x1 carbon and have loved it since never gad any issues. I am still trying to get the k1max to run nicely as it would be great to have the big volume but so far its just not happening.
Got one this on a Black Friday deal at a great price, but I got the instant Creality poor QC and a zero crap given customer support as soon as I found out I got a bad screen ribbon cable. I had to buy a ribbon from Aliexpress to see if I want to keep it before the Amazon return time frame expires. Thx you for the hipe, but after 4 Creality printers, I've had enough of the poor QC and service.
Spool on the back is an instant no go imho. If i'm going to have go print parts for my brand new printer i might as well print a new printer. Especially at this price point.
I almost wanted one, but I need something bigger, looks cool
Is the air filter you have in there stock or an addon you put in?
You can replace the door hinges with "270deg" 3D printed ones, so that the door can open fully along the left hand side - IF you want to, or somehow you lose control of it and it swings aside. And you can put some foam padding on the side so it can't hit the side hard. Thus you are not likely to able to do anything to break it, LOL.
The hinges are on Printables - BUT, they did not fit mine perfectly, plus they were a bit 'lousy' 3D Models, so I rebuilt the totally to fit and be "clean" prints.
Will you be sharing your improved files? I was just looking at the hinges on printables today and I agree that they didn't look great.
I cant seem to find you settings for this printer on your Patreon.
what slicer do you use because I cant get creality print to do tree supports
I had the same problem with collapsing swords until I changed the minimum travel after retraction to 0 for them
Your Orca profile is the problem!
I printed the Dril Sword with CrealitySlicer stock settings, speed at 100mm/s to print 8 hours overnight and it looks and works perfect. Very very happy with my K1.
Nice! Will give that a go!
What printer would you recommend for printing Clone Trooper helmets Uncle Jesse
PressReset is why I bought my CR-10 as well.
Great shout out to Aurora Tech they do a great job 👍
Jessy, you will find that the stock PEI plate "interacts" differently with different filament brands, colors etc!! And I mean VERY different. Some that will not stick at all. Others that will stick like they are superglued on! I have found that with a 3rd party PEI Textured (golden) plate, some of the ones that will not adhere to the stock plate WILL adhere like superglue to that plate instead!! Something must be going on with the chemical composition of the filaments, and probably also how the "PEI" of the plates is also not identical. But once you work out what filament sticks to which plate properly, you just stick to that combination!
Also, Creality make an A Plate and a B Plate..... the B Plate being their PEI Textured form. Well, at least they make that for the plain K!.... not for the Max as of yet. That K1 version is also double sided... A and B per side. So I guess eventually Creality will release an A/B plate for the Max also.
Mind you, you could (will?) still run into adhesion issues, and that means you almost surely need a 3rd party type also. (Textured PEI, and may as well be double sided with POI or PEY on the flip side). These 3rd party ones are likely to work better with PETG etc also (no glue) - that is just a matter of testing to see what sticks to what best also.
And having the range (few) that WORK means that you don't want to ever need to use GLUE (gluestick)..... which is a messy pain, that eventually needs to be cleaned off, and affects underside of items you want 'perfect' also. And textured plates form that 'perfect', beautiful and 'complete' underside (no lines to be seen etc).
Don’t use the glue stick at all, especially not the supplied one. PLA sticks really well to the stock K1 Max plate for me without glue. Just keep it clean. For ABS/ASA I’ve been using 3DLAC with excellent adhesion so far!
Can you make a video on how to connect a camera to the elegiac Neptune 4 max
Whats the name from the stl at 17:14 looks pretty nice?
Guys, should i get the new Bambu Lab A1 (not the mini) or the Creality K1 (not the max)? They are the same price where I live. I just want the best value. I have an Ender 3 v2 right now, I like tinkering and upgrading but I do not like CONSTANTLY fixing it. What should I get? Thanks.
I love that people are calling it doing an uncle Jessy (breaking the door)immortalised 😇
It's taken me about a month to get my K1 Max running consistently and with my own awesome settings in Cura. That would probably be the one down side. I would have rather seen Creality make great profiles for the current slicers instead of making Creatlity Print.
What gets crazier is when you realise aurora is 14 (or so) and doing these quality of videos whilst also in school, absolutely nuts
She obviously just reads scripts on camera. Who knows who actually writes them...
I don't think I have seen any of your comment or review about the lidar sensor built into this machine. You probably own so many other machine that perhaps you can speak if the lidar sensor is useful in terms of printing qualtity.
how do you print multi color? on the reality k1 max?
Im new and k1 max is my kinda first printer, i think its the extruder for some issues with filament being feed with certian spools of filament, idk. Im no engineer.
Had mine since October and has been printing very well but unfortunately it's now ruined due to a crazy big gloop of death covering almost the entire print head assembly after a bed adhesion failure and the nozzle continuing to extrude PLA everywhere. Creality has agreed to replace certain parts for free. Unfortunately there is no way to buy the printing head cover so I will have to print an "aftermarket" one as the original is ruined. Not having all the parts of a printer on sale is absolutely absurd. Also, there is very little info on how to change the entire print head assembly online, only how to swap out the extruder and hot end.
"Failed print, failed print, failed print... it's a great printer!!" - This guy