You're the first one I've seen that does it right. I'm a perfectionist especially when it comes to detailing the paint. You did a very nice job. I just finished a pro street 64 Mustang (factory color) now I'm doing a 70 mach 1. It's a sort of time attack car. Only colors I have is white. Red . and orange. I'm thinking of going with orange
@@JHHobby I like meguiars products better than mothers because meguiars is geared towards the professional. I've always had nothing but good luck with it
Amazing tutorial and very informative. Been looking for something so detailed for some time and this completely fits the bill. All questions are now answered!!!
I'm a novice modeler. And want to do box stock at model show's. Wich you probably know comes down to the paint being perfect to place. So this was extremely helpful. That heavy compound is expensive. But on models probably lasts a long time I'd imagine. Thank you so much for the very informative video!!!
Thank you for a clear, concise and easy to follow video. Polishing shouldn't be black magic and you make it seem almost simple if we FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Small additions: If you can, use sanding blocks with sandpapers Instead of wool polishing pad (in high cutting phase) use sponge polishing pad. Sponge has much more cutting rather than wool.
The first model I painted with airbrush was the Ferrari F40. Because of the disappointing looks of the painting I quitted building modern cars sets, and focused on planes and tanks where shiny finishings is not a must. With your video, I'm ready again to give modern cars models a second try. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial!!! Truthfully the amount of orange peel can be reduced greatly by using a high quality 2 part automotive clear coat and hardener, and also temperature/humidity play a big factor. I use only automotive clear coat and hardener used on real world automobiles and after spraying the clear it comes out nearly flawless every single time. I can wet sand with 6000 grit and 12000 grit, rotary polish using Meguiars ultimate polish, top with pure carnauba, and my finish is then flawless.
thanks for the info =) i yet to try with automotive clear haha..for paint colour i always use automotive paint..but dont know why i feel its so much easier to use spray cans haha
Funny your pic for this video shows before and after. But too me the before looks awesome enough :)) crazy that it gets even better through some wet sanding. Am always scared I will take off the paint. Good vid.
I Use Sanding Blocks & only Use 600-800 Wet/Dry I Pre-mask Chrome to Avoid Filling with Paint 56 Crown Victoria or 63 Impala use Dish Soap in Water to slightly Wetsand
Thank you for this tutorial. I truly look up to you and how you make such amazing cars. I will be attempting my 4th and most detailed model car soon! Have a good day😄
I’m assuming that the process with a decaled car is the same as the decals are underneath the clear coat to start with?? I’m VERY new to the hobby so no idea lol 😅
Excellent results with 1K clear! Can even say its better than 2K. I'll like to share to all that if you're using machine polish. Becareful of edges of the model kit and polish towards or parallel to it. Had the buffing wheel caught on to the edges and flank it across the room one too many times.
thanks~ yea until now i havent try 2k clear on model car yet haha..need to try it one day, is it better using 2k? yes! using the machine polish have to be really careful but it speed up the process a lot haha
@@JHHobby I like using 2K Clear from Gravity Colors, lays very smooth and doesn't give the "dipped in syrup" look. Little to no sanding or polishing required afterwards. Downside is it's v toxic to spray. Major Downside for me is I live in SG. V costly to ship in.
@@WingsOfGaming ahh i see! thanks for your opinions =D not sure i can get that paint or not =( no wonder some builders can spray the clear coat soo smooth without polishing, now i know the reasons haha
Very helpful. This with using a minigrinder i never been thinking of. Have to try it. Most times i use this nail polish kits woman buys , with rather good result.. But maybe not this good
Great Job, wow is amazing with a little patience what you can accomplish. to bad i have none. I see i will have to go out and buy me some patience . Congrats looks awesome
Mine looks dull. I am hoping that it is just because i didn't use a coarser compound first (went from 7000 wet sand to Tamiya fine polish). Will get some compound with cutting quality tomorrow and hopefully that brings up the gloss again.
I can tell that English isn't your native language. I'm guessing that you're from Japan. I too have the mirror glaze polish. I use this only for hand polishing as it's highly refined and redundant with the polishing wheel that I normally use for much larger items. Using any type of rotary tool can burn right through your paint. I use 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for everything and I can get a high gloss with that and the Meguiar's Mirror or number 9 Swirl Remover, or number 7 Show car Glaze. These are my go to polishes for hand rubbing. And use a TERRY CLOTH towel and not a microfiber cloth as it is too soft to rub the polish into the finish. Otherwise this is absolutely GORGEOUS and the type of finish that everyone loves!! Much better than using floor polish that all the numb nuts of the modeling forums use in a lame and poor attempt to get the same finish which it does not! Thank you for sharing this with us to enjoy.
Wow! You simply cannot argue with those results. Thanks for the tutorial. I was just about to go buy a pile of Tamiya compounds but after watching this I will just use my automotive products. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi, i have some question to ask you, boss. Can i direct use meguiar scratch x2.0 after wet sanding? And can l appky this scratch x to to polished surface with some swirls and scratches after using tamiya compounds?
@@JHHobby haha, ok thanks, now i had ordered ultimate compound to polish, I have some swirls marks and scratch after tamiya three compound, so can l just directly apply ultimate compound to these surfaces to remove all swirl effectively?
Such a good video! Excellent content and even better production. Well thought out. I’ve been researching for my first car build, and let me tell you, there is some less than stellar content out there. 😀
Machine polishing is a double sided sword. It saves the effort and polish otherwise unreachable areas. But it can easily cut into the paint like a knife. If this happens nothing help but strip and start over again.
First I just wanna say I'm really amazed of your work, And thiese methods do work but when wet sanded it to 2000-3000 I get a little minor scratches but meh, hahaha! And I have watched your every videos on how-to's and I almost achieved most of my 1/24 scales. One last thing can you build an Fujimi RX-7 Spirit R Type A and lowering it, Thanks keep up the great work!
Wow! Your tutorials are amazing, very detailed and well explained in a simple way, keep them coming, I am learning a lot everytime I watch 👍👌 many thanks !!! One question, how do you do it when you build a racecar with a lot of decals, I am concerned to damage the decals by sanding as the clear coat is very thin.... only one chance to get it right or wrong 😉 any advise highly appreciated, thanks !
thank you so much! glad it is useful! i will recommend apply more layers of clear, this way you will have a thicker clearcoat to work with, but of course you still have to be careful, dont wetsand too much first to be safe haha
Nice! It's exactly what I do! Right down to the Dremel wheel! (I made a video recently with my method and materials.) The only point where I diverge from your method is...(I spray Testors Enamel Clear, which is really soft even after it cured a year!) So I found that the Meguiars polish and even the wax was too abrasive leaving visible swirls and haze on my black finish. What I found much more successful for the softer finish was Tamiya Finishing Polish and for wax I used Meguiars Spray Wax which, being a liquid spray had no abrasives. Again...beautiful job and great tutorial! I'm just mentioning materials that work better if you find your clearcoat is too soft.
@@ihateliberals518 No, have not used it. But thanks for the tip! For some reason some of my paint jobs scratch easier than others. Sometimes Meguiars ScratchX is too abrasive, and then I instead use Tamiya Finishing Polish, which is super fine. Even the Tamiya Fine Polish is too abrasive and have to use the Finishing Polish. There is a big difference between the two.
@@hobbycow5346 you should try using what I do. Believe it or not. It's rustoleum that I get from Wal-Mart. I put the color on. Then I use rustoleum crystal clear. That clear is so good. Once you wet sand and buff it. It looks almost like candy!! (Meaning like candy apple red paint) it's by far the best clear I've ever used
@@ihateliberals518 Thanks for the tip! Will keep that in mind. Especially since Testors no longer makes enamel spray paint. I have 2 cans of enamel clear left and that's it for good.
Thanks for this, every time I paint a model car the paint looks like orange peel, I will try this out and see if it helps, currently modifying a 1:18 scale Ferrari 550 maranello
Great tutorial. Can you tell me, was that a clear coat that you painted over the paint? Or was that just simply a high glass paint. Thanks for your time.
Very nice. Result is beautiful. I was wondering what color/manufacturer paint and clear coat you used. I usually decant my paints and clear. Letting them breath and let the propellant gas out before I use them in my airbrush. Thanks so much.
Hello. I will be ordering some tamiya 3000 and 2000 grit sponges with my next kit. Do I need the wax or compounds as they are expensive. Could I get away with a good finish just by sanding in between coats of gloss spray?
cool! =) yes u need compound at least..you can skip the wax. you dont need to sand coat by coat..just do a wetsand after clearcoat is fully dry and do a 1 step polish should be good enough..thats what i normally do =)
hi, do you mean you wan to make the paint a little more smooth? if you want to make the paint smoother you still need the compound..if you only want to remove fine scratches you can you the Ultimate polish =)
I love this video helped so much. I am using spray paint and want those metallic flakes that you put. What paint to I buy. Or do I need an airbrush? I was looking into zero paints and gravity colors. But those need airbrush. I have been looking at your videos and am subscribed. I am blown away by your workmanship. I am close to where I want to buy so have been trying to watch your videos to improve.
Hey man, thanks alot! Really appreatiate it😄😄 With normal spray cans there is limited colour to choose from😅 so if u want to widen your colour choice you have to go with airbrush
@@JHHobby I just bought my first airbrush today as a birthday gift. I also bought some model kits and the polishing products you recommended. I also bought some paint from zero paints for some model kits. Your videos have helped me a lot and I am hoping to start a new channel soon. Thank you!
That’s a perfect looking paint job. Did you have to wet sand the color coat before spraying the clear? I guess your orange peel is on the clear ? What kind of color paint did you use? Thanks
Greta vid - Can I ask a couple of questions please . How many clear coats did you do before hand ? What type of paint did you use - acrylic ? If I’m putting decals on is it best to do it after the final wax coat ? Or will this cause problems with decals ? Thanks and once again great vid ❤
@JH Hobby I know a lot of ppl out there take time to show and explain how to videos, but I wanted to take the time to comment that you did an excellent job in the presentation and pointing out the pitfalls of what not to do , etc, very much appreciated very informative video. I have a question, if you have older plastic models( slot cars, bodies have marks, scratches from racing them) and wanted to polish, wax them to get it " close" to the original paint job, what product would you use first to " fill in or cover up the scratches before you get to the steps that you demonstrated in the video ?
Hey! Thanks for the feedback!😁😁 it depends on the scrathes actually, if the scratch is not too deep then it can be polish away😁 just simply give it a try and see how it goes😁
I have 2 car bodies that are molded in color. I'm happy with them, so I don't want to paint over them. If I apply a clearcoat first, could I sand away a molding seam without damaging the color? I'm coming back and I'm re-learning. Thank you!
Amazing job and tutorial, im starter, question, at this point, the paint is already with a clear coat? i mean, your are sanding the clear? the polish also need to seal or just dry? thansk for the video
Im very curious on where you get your carbon fiber. I've been looking, I have a section of a hood I want to do that I think would look great. If you're willing to share your secret for the carbon fiber, I'd be extremely grateful. Thanks. By the way, your polishing work is on point, as someone who has worked in an auto body shop, some of these TH-cam videos on polishing their model cars make me cringe 😆
Really awesome for using mini grinder! Wonder if I could modified the lake country pad to use with the grinder. (I prefer using menzerna for polishing my car and I think it could be great for the model too.) thanks for the great video.
haha thanks! it's a life saver using a machine to polish, so much quicker and not tiring haha. yea you definetely can use any type of polish products..as long as it works for you =D
Can I ask a question please. I have coated my car with primer and now colour. There is orange peel. I dont want to clear coat yet and it needs another coat of colour. Is my best bet to colour and sand and then colour and sand. When colour is then even but flat is that the time to clear coat. It does not make sense to me to clear coat over orange peel ? When I achieve this clesrcoat is that the time to follow your procedure. Fantastic video
Hey man, if the paint is too heavy with orange peel u can wetsand it and spray another layer before clear coat..normally we will go straight to clear coat and then just wetsand it..easier that way
Another great tutorial from you sir. Well explained and I can notice some points which I can adapt to my procedure to make it even better. I currently use Autoglym but have seen many people use Meguiars, need to try their products once mine reach the end. Once again, thank you and well done!
Thank you so much again! i think i learn this from you if i'm not mistaken..long long ago haha.. yea i find that any products work fine as long as it has the right cutting and polish properties needed.
@@JHHobby Yeah I did make a tutorial online several years ago.. glad you found it interesting! Perfectly agree that all products have their benefits if you use them correctly. Once again, thank you for the share!
Thanks for this! Can’t wait to give it a try. What clear was used on your example? I’m using a water based acrylic (Alclad Aqua Gloss) and I’m concerned it won’t take the abuse. Cheers.
That is all good and well, but keep in mind you have no idea how thick the factory paint is so the risk is getting too much paint removed on the high spots in the contours of the car. And the hand pressure used to polish is very subjective. I will just settle for the factory finish with whatever imperfections it contains. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax to get the shine beyond factory!
Yea its risky for beginners actually..but its all about experience..once you know to sand and polish it will never burn trough the paint..and because model cars is very small..it requires shinny and mirror paint finish to look good..thats my personal opinion😁
This is a must for ANY model painted with a gloss finish. No matter how your your paint job is, this will make it perfect. BUT, don't use this as an excuse to apply crappy paint jobs. First try to improve your paint job quality
A very informative video and I like the finish that you obtained, it looks great. The question that I have is it a 2K Clear that you are sanding? If I try to use 2000 or 3000 grit sand parer on a 2K clear then you will get scratches that the polishing compounds won't be able to remove.
Hi thanks for the feedback.. i use Mr.hobby clear not 2k. But i work in automotive paint shop too, with 2k clear and wetsand with grit 2000 is possible to remove by compound. Need a strong cut compound to removes the sandpaper marks. I can say its not easy for model cars because normally we use hand to polish🤣
hi, not sure im able to put into words or not but i will try my best to explain. Cutting compound/ Compound is use to cut the paint, it can remove heavy swirl marks, heavy scratches, etc. because it is a strong compound it will leave it's own mark on the paint job..therefore u need a finer compound AKA a pre wax products to remove the strong compound marks Another simple explanation : Cutting compound/ Strong - can remove 2000grit sand marks fine compound / weak - can remove 5000grit sand marks and cannot remove 2000grit sand marks hope you understand hahaha
I always clear coat over the decals. Just be careful as some decals will react with the clear. I give it a couple very light coats and let them tack up well before a couple heavier wet coats.
Many times a Dremel is far too fast, you can use a battery powered pet nail trimmer. Collets are cheap on ebay and you can control speed with your finger if needed
so u paint the body colour, clear coat it, and then do this process? so this is not removing the clearcoat? the orange peel that u smoothed out, isnt' that in the blue paint? or it's only in the clearcoat? sorry i'm new to all this. thanks!
awesome tutorial, especially for a beginner like me! One question... the paint on my recent model has some small specs of dust in it (not too bad, but slightly noticeable) and I'm wondering should I be polishing or sanding the paint before adding the decals & clear coat? Or should I just add the decals & then clear coat & leave the polishing until then? I'm using Tamiya TS paint from the can & will clear coat in TS-13
Thank you so much for the feedback! glad you find it useful =D normally its better to apply the decal before clear coat, this way you will have a protection over the decals. If you already apply the clear coat, it's ok to apply the decal later after you finish polishing =) hope this help
Thanks for the awesome video! I just started collecting 1:18 scale cars and im too terrified to take them apart. Can we do this without taking the car apart? Where did you get that mini grinder or can I use an electric toothbrush? I want my cars to look like this. Ive been mainly collecting autoart, some solido, GT spirit, topspeed. Do they all pretty much have the same paint? I just want to make sure im not going to ruin the car.
Hi, what happen if the orange peel happen in the base coat (color coat). Should i wetsand it before or just spray clear coat over it and then wetsand ? My thought is that if the orange peel happened in the color coat, wetsand the clear will not remove it, right ?
Normally i dont wetsand my base coat unless its really rough, then u can lightly sand abit and spray another layer of base coat just to cover up the sanding marks, and proceed to clearcoat😁
Hi,,,a question,,, Polished it's before or after gloss clear coat,,,? Because right after painting job,,I have the orange shape!.so do have to sender down,then clear coat,then polished? In that order??
Yes only do polishing after clear coat😁 if your colour coat is too rough, try spraying it wetter next time, if you're tyring to save it, try sanding it lightly and spray another later or colour coat before clearcoating
Great tutorial So is it necessary to buy both the compound and the polish or can I get away with buying one of them so my car doesn’t have orange peel but looks decent?
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You're the first one I've seen that does it right. I'm a perfectionist especially when it comes to detailing the paint. You did a very nice job. I just finished a pro street 64 Mustang (factory color) now I'm doing a 70 mach 1. It's a sort of time attack car. Only colors I have is white. Red . and orange. I'm thinking of going with orange
So glad to hear that man!😁😁 im a automotive painter and detailer too😂 thats why you often see me used automotive products😂
@@JHHobby I like meguiars products better than mothers because meguiars is geared towards the professional. I've always had nothing but good luck with it
Amazing tutorial and very informative. Been looking for something so detailed for some time and this completely fits the bill. All questions are now answered!!!
thank you so much for the feedback! Glad you like it! any questions can just let me know =)
I'm a novice modeler. And want to do box stock at model show's. Wich you probably know comes down to the paint being perfect to place. So this was extremely helpful. That heavy compound is expensive. But on models probably lasts a long time I'd imagine. Thank you so much for the very informative video!!!
Yes the compound will last u at least 20 to 30 models😂
Thank you for a clear, concise and easy to follow video. Polishing shouldn't be black magic and you make it seem
almost simple if we FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.
How to have a finish like a real car: polish it like a real car
Hahaha yuppp😂
Actually, yes that is how it is done
Pretty much exact same process for wet sanding and polishing a car. Maybe even do a ceramic coat on your model at the end! :)
Fantastic if only most modellers knew this. It would take their finished product from toy looking to real vehicle.
I’m working on a revell 1/144 a380 and I’m trying to make it look really good. This tutorial really helped
Glad to hear that😁😁
Small additions:
If you can, use sanding blocks with sandpapers
Instead of wool polishing pad (in high cutting phase) use sponge polishing pad. Sponge has much more cutting rather than wool.
That finish is immaculate!
Wow thank you master! 😍 i always admire your builds too sir!💙
The first model I painted with airbrush was the Ferrari F40. Because of the disappointing looks of the painting I quitted building modern cars sets, and focused on planes and tanks where shiny finishings is not a must. With your video, I'm ready again to give modern cars models a second try. Thanks!
ive actually wondered about how to make my paint on model cars mimic the real type reflection that 1/1 cars have. thank you this helps me a lot!!
Glad to hear that! These technique is used to real cars too😁
@@JHHobby how do you get those nice metal flake looks on the car?
@@JHHobby is it with airbrush or just with polish? I use spray paints.
@@dannypino3130 I would think the paint itself has that pearl mix in there. He must have mixed his own paint finish.
@@estebanflores8049 what is the difference between pearl and metallic paint?
Excellent tutorial!!! Truthfully the amount of orange peel can be reduced greatly by using a high quality 2 part automotive clear coat and hardener, and also temperature/humidity play a big factor. I use only automotive clear coat and hardener used on real world automobiles and after spraying the clear it comes out nearly flawless every single time. I can wet sand with 6000 grit and 12000 grit, rotary polish using Meguiars ultimate polish, top with pure carnauba, and my finish is then flawless.
thanks for the info =) i yet to try with automotive clear haha..for paint colour i always use automotive paint..but dont know why i feel its so much easier to use spray cans haha
Huge difference. Looks great.
That’s a great polishing work,congratulations,look’s great
Thank you very much!
Nice work! Gives me confidence to paint my models and have a shine that grabs the eye.
Glad i can help!😄
Funny your pic for this video shows before and after. But too me the before looks awesome enough :)) crazy that it gets even better through some wet sanding. Am always scared I will take off the paint. Good vid.
Hahaha true😂 only making it even better 😁
I Use Sanding Blocks & only Use 600-800 Wet/Dry I Pre-mask Chrome to Avoid Filling with Paint 56 Crown Victoria or 63 Impala use Dish Soap in
Water to slightly Wetsand
Now if I did this I'd be wearing the paint off at the edges!! Nice work!!
Haha thanks!
Thank you for this tutorial. I truly look up to you and how you make such amazing cars. I will be attempting my 4th and most detailed model car soon! Have a good day😄
Thank you so much! Im so glad i can help through my videos🙏🙏🙌
Good luck
Wow looks absolutely amazing,
Woooow!!! Amazing!!! Thank you so much for the tutorial!!!
Great tutorial. Just what I've been looking for. Thanks a million.
Glad to hear that! 😍😍
I’m assuming that the process with a decaled car is the same as the decals are underneath the clear coat to start with?? I’m VERY new to the hobby so no idea lol 😅
awesome, thank you mate and thank you for sharing on the FB How To's page so we could find video!
thank you so much for your feedback! glad i can help =)
Very nice and thorough tutorial. I learned some things I didn't know before
Glad to hear that!
Excellent results with 1K clear! Can even say its better than 2K.
I'll like to share to all that if you're using machine polish. Becareful of edges of the model kit and polish towards or parallel to it. Had the buffing wheel caught on to the edges and flank it across the room one too many times.
thanks~ yea until now i havent try 2k clear on model car yet haha..need to try it one day, is it better using 2k?
yes! using the machine polish have to be really careful but it speed up the process a lot haha
@@JHHobby I like using 2K Clear from Gravity Colors, lays very smooth and doesn't give the "dipped in syrup" look. Little to no sanding or polishing required afterwards. Downside is it's v toxic to spray.
Major Downside for me is I live in SG. V costly to ship in.
@@WingsOfGaming ahh i see! thanks for your opinions =D not sure i can get that paint or not =( no wonder some builders can spray the clear coat soo smooth without polishing, now i know the reasons haha
@@JHHobby Gravity Colours I highly recommend the EU site. Zero Paints are an alternative too.
@@WingsOfGaming alright cool! =D
Amazing technique,looks awesome
Thank you! Cheers!
Man this channel is already mind blowing helpful
Happy to hear that!
Very helpful. This with using a minigrinder i never been thinking of. Have to try it. Most times i use this nail polish kits woman buys , with rather good result.. But maybe not this good
Beautiful work and you're a great teacher. Thanks. 🤗
Glad to hear that!😄😄 thanks alot🤗
simply the best tutorial i have ever seen, thanks for the info :)
Glad to hear that! Thanks!🤗😊
Great Job, wow is amazing with a little patience what you can accomplish. to bad i have none. I see i will have to go out and buy me some patience . Congrats looks awesome
Haha you can do it too! And thanks for the kind words🙌
I used Dupont automotive clearcoat (line 600 - with hardener). This gave me a mirror result on my models, without caring of polishing.
wow cool! havent try 2k clear coat yet..my airbrush is not good and smooth enough to shoot a proper spray =(
Mine looks dull. I am hoping that it is just because i didn't use a coarser compound first (went from 7000 wet sand to Tamiya fine polish). Will get some compound with cutting quality tomorrow and hopefully that brings up the gloss again.
Excellent tutorial. This will help me polish my keycaps 😎
I can tell that English isn't your native language. I'm guessing that you're from Japan. I too have the mirror glaze polish. I use this only for hand polishing as it's highly refined and redundant with the polishing wheel that I normally use for much larger items. Using any type of rotary tool can burn right through your paint. I use 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for everything and I can get a high gloss with that and the Meguiar's Mirror or number 9 Swirl Remover, or number 7 Show car Glaze. These are my go to polishes for hand rubbing. And use a TERRY CLOTH towel and not a microfiber cloth as it is too soft to rub the polish into the finish. Otherwise this is absolutely GORGEOUS and the type of finish that everyone loves!! Much better than using floor polish that all the numb nuts of the modeling forums use in a lame and poor attempt to get the same finish which it does not! Thank you for sharing this with us to enjoy.
Looks great! With my painting skills, I need this! It certainly beats using sanding pads from 3,600 to 12,000. Thanks! I am a new subscriber.
Wow! You simply cannot argue with those results. Thanks for the tutorial. I was just about to go buy a pile of Tamiya compounds but after watching this I will just use my automotive products. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Must try this as just got into this hobby and built 2 cars and hate the paint job pmsl
Terbaik ni. Thanks for sharing this! Going to start my first build next week.
Welcome bro! 😁😁 happy building!🙌
Hi, i have some question to ask you, boss. Can i direct use meguiar scratch x2.0 after wet sanding? And can l appky this scratch x to to polished surface with some swirls and scratches after using tamiya compounds?
Yes u can😁 but i not sure how effective it's because i never try them before
@@JHHobby haha, ok thanks, now i had ordered ultimate compound to polish, I have some swirls marks and scratch after tamiya three compound, so can l just directly apply ultimate compound to these surfaces to remove all swirl effectively?
Such a good video! Excellent content and even better production. Well thought out. I’ve been researching for my first car build, and let me tell you, there is some less than stellar content out there. 😀
Great job on the paint how to my freind excellent il have to get some that compound 👍
Thanks!😁😁 yess that meguairs compound is one of the best and easiet to work on haha
WoW, well done ! I have to do again and again to have the same result. Thanks for the vidéo 💛👍👏
thanks! glad you like it! hopefully this is helpful = )
Yes, I recorded this video
Machine polishing is a double sided sword. It saves the effort and polish otherwise unreachable areas. But it can easily cut into the paint like a knife. If this happens nothing help but strip and start over again.
First I just wanna say I'm really amazed of your work, And thiese methods do work but when wet sanded it to 2000-3000 I get a little minor scratches but meh, hahaha! And I have watched your every videos on how-to's and I almost achieved most of my 1/24 scales. One last thing can you build an Fujimi RX-7 Spirit R Type A and lowering it, Thanks keep up the great work!
Very usefull..nice video too
thank you so much!
Wow! Your tutorials are amazing, very detailed and well explained in a simple way, keep them coming, I am learning a lot everytime I watch 👍👌 many thanks !!! One question, how do you do it when you build a racecar with a lot of decals, I am concerned to damage the decals by sanding as the clear coat is very thin.... only one chance to get it right or wrong 😉 any advise highly appreciated, thanks !
thank you so much! glad it is useful! i will recommend apply more layers of clear, this way you will have a thicker clearcoat to work with, but of course you still have to be careful, dont wetsand too much first to be safe haha
Nice! It's exactly what I do! Right down to the Dremel wheel! (I made a video recently with my method and materials.) The only point where I diverge from your method is...(I spray Testors Enamel Clear, which is really soft even after it cured a year!) So I found that the Meguiars polish and even the wax was too abrasive leaving visible swirls and haze on my black finish. What I found much more successful for the softer finish was Tamiya Finishing Polish and for wax I used Meguiars Spray Wax which, being a liquid spray had no abrasives.
Again...beautiful job and great tutorial! I'm just mentioning materials that work better if you find your clearcoat is too soft.
Thanks! Yeah true man..thats why we have to try with different types of polish, pads, and technique to really get it right😁
Have you ever tried using meguiars swirl remover? It's a very fine polish
@@ihateliberals518 No, have not used it. But thanks for the tip! For some reason some of my paint jobs scratch easier than others. Sometimes Meguiars ScratchX is too abrasive, and then I instead use Tamiya Finishing Polish, which is super fine. Even the Tamiya Fine Polish is too abrasive and have to use the Finishing Polish. There is a big difference between the two.
@@hobbycow5346 you should try using what I do. Believe it or not. It's rustoleum that I get from Wal-Mart. I put the color on. Then I use rustoleum crystal clear. That clear is so good. Once you wet sand and buff it. It looks almost like candy!! (Meaning like candy apple red paint) it's by far the best clear I've ever used
@@ihateliberals518 Thanks for the tip! Will keep that in mind. Especially since Testors no longer makes enamel spray paint. I have 2 cans of enamel clear left and that's it for good.
Thanks for this, every time I paint a model car the paint looks like orange peel, I will try this out and see if it helps, currently modifying a 1:18 scale Ferrari 550 maranello
Glad to hear that! Hopefully you can pull this off with your project😁
Great tutorial. Can you tell me, was that a clear coat that you painted over the paint? Or was that just simply a high glass paint. Thanks for your time.
Very nice. Result is beautiful.
I was wondering what color/manufacturer paint and clear coat you used. I usually decant my paints and clear. Letting them breath and let the propellant gas out before I use them in my airbrush.
Thanks so much.
Perfect thanks. Actually I sand hard edges and wipd the paint on it 😂 . You just do flat and even part for the sanding?
Good job blue is a bugger to get right too
Thanks mate!😁😁
Thank you very much. I will try your technique.
That is very helpful, I can use the same technique on my diecast cars paint. The finished product looks awesome my friend.
yes you can indeed! i use this technique on my 1/18 diecast too
Awesome dude.
You don't really talk about the clear coat. I assume you put down clear coat after paint and before polish?
hi, there is another video for the paint where i descibe more details =) yes of course after paint you spray clear coat on and then polish
Hello. I will be ordering some tamiya 3000 and 2000 grit sponges with my next kit. Do I need the wax or compounds as they are expensive. Could I get away with a good finish just by sanding in between coats of gloss spray?
cool! =) yes u need compound at least..you can skip the wax. you dont need to sand coat by coat..just do a wetsand after clearcoat is fully dry and do a 1 step polish should be good enough..thats what i normally do =)
Hi JH-Hobby, what if the acrylic gloss is smooth but I want to make it shinier, should I just buy the Meguiar's Ultimate Polish?
hi, do you mean you wan to make the paint a little more smooth? if you want to make the paint smoother you still need the compound..if you only want to remove fine scratches you can you the Ultimate polish =)
@@JHHobby how can I make the paint job smoother I have a 1/43 scale model Ferrari
I love this video helped so much. I am using spray paint and want those metallic flakes that you put. What paint to I buy. Or do I need an airbrush? I was looking into zero paints and gravity colors. But those need airbrush. I have been looking at your videos and am subscribed. I am blown away by your workmanship. I am close to where I want to buy so have been trying to watch your videos to improve.
Hey man, thanks alot! Really appreatiate it😄😄
With normal spray cans there is limited colour to choose from😅 so if u want to widen your colour choice you have to go with airbrush
@@JHHobby I just bought my first airbrush today as a birthday gift. I also bought some model kits and the polishing products you recommended. I also bought some paint from zero paints for some model kits. Your videos have helped me a lot and I am hoping to start a new channel soon. Thank you!
That’s a perfect looking paint job. Did you have to wet sand the color coat before spraying the clear? I guess your orange peel is on the clear ? What kind of color paint did you use? Thanks
hey, thanks! nop i did not wetsand the paint..normally colour paint im using airbrush so its not rough
Greta vid - Can I ask a couple of questions please .
How many clear coats did you do before hand ?
What type of paint did you use - acrylic ?
If I’m putting decals on is it best to do it after the final wax coat ? Or will this cause problems with decals ?
Thanks and once again great vid ❤
@JH Hobby I know a lot of ppl out there take time to show and explain how to videos, but I wanted to take the time to comment that you did an excellent job in the presentation and pointing out the pitfalls of what not to do , etc, very much appreciated very informative video.
I have a question, if you have older plastic models( slot cars, bodies have marks, scratches from racing them) and wanted to polish, wax them to get it " close" to the original paint job, what product would you use first to " fill in or cover up the scratches before you get to the steps that you demonstrated in the video ?
Hey! Thanks for the feedback!😁😁 it depends on the scrathes actually, if the scratch is not too deep then it can be polish away😁 just simply give it a try and see how it goes😁
Now add a coat of ceramic clear gloss and buff that! It will look 10 times better.
Very good result! Im impressed.
Did you use 1K coat or was it 2K?
I have 2 car bodies that are molded in color. I'm happy with them, so I don't want to paint over them. If I apply a clearcoat first, could I sand away a molding seam without damaging the color? I'm coming back and I'm re-learning. Thank you!
Very nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
❤❤❤ that's amazing, thanks for the video ✌️😎
Amazing job and tutorial, im starter, question, at this point, the paint is already with a clear coat? i mean, your are sanding the clear? the polish also need to seal or just dry? thansk for the video
Yes, its already clear coated, only do this after clea coat😁
@@JHHobby and after the polish, ypu sealed or just the polish
Im very curious on where you get your carbon fiber. I've been looking, I have a section of a hood I want to do that I think would look great. If you're willing to share your secret for the carbon fiber, I'd be extremely grateful. Thanks.
By the way, your polishing work is on point, as someone who has worked in an auto body shop, some of these TH-cam videos on polishing their model cars make me cringe 😆
Hi, u can get the decal from HLJ.com or bnamodelworld.com😁
Really awesome for using mini grinder! Wonder if I could modified the lake country pad to use with the grinder. (I prefer using menzerna for polishing my car and I think it could be great for the model too.) thanks for the great video.
haha thanks! it's a life saver using a machine to polish, so much quicker and not tiring haha. yea you definetely can use any type of polish products..as long as it works for you =D
Can I ask a question please. I have coated my car with primer and now colour. There is orange peel. I dont want to clear coat yet and it needs another coat of colour. Is my best bet to colour and sand and then colour and sand. When colour is then even but flat is that the time to clear coat. It does not make sense to me to clear coat over orange peel ? When I achieve this clesrcoat is that the time to follow your procedure. Fantastic video
Hey man, if the paint is too heavy with orange peel u can wetsand it and spray another layer before clear coat..normally we will go straight to clear coat and then just wetsand it..easier that way
boutta do my first car and your videos help a ton! Paint looks great. Hope I can do mine good 😂😆
You can do it!
Another great tutorial from you sir. Well explained and I can notice some points which I can adapt to my procedure to make it even better. I currently use Autoglym but have seen many people use Meguiars, need to try their products once mine reach the end. Once again, thank you and well done!
Thank you so much again! i think i learn this from you if i'm not mistaken..long long ago haha.. yea i find that any products work fine as long as it has the right cutting and polish properties needed.
@@JHHobby Yeah I did make a tutorial online several years ago.. glad you found it interesting! Perfectly agree that all products have their benefits if you use them correctly. Once again, thank you for the share!
Haha glad that u made the tutorial years ago..it really helped us alot! 😁😁
YOU are a genius!!!!
Thanks for this! Can’t wait to give it a try. What clear was used on your example? I’m using a water based acrylic (Alclad Aqua Gloss) and I’m concerned it won’t take the abuse. Cheers.
Thanks man, i think it should be fine😁 i use Mr.hobby super clear.
Really amazing job, thanks so much, I want to ask you how many coats of clear do you apply usually ?
Nice videos and tutorials. We should grab a drink to chat up if you ever come Singapore. 😀
Sure thing😉😉 and thanks!
Great video can i just start with 3000 grade and finish with 5000 and use tamiya coarse,fine and finish for polishing.
Yes you can😁
Fantastic tutorial and presentation, really shows the before and after. Thanks for sharing! One question what was the paint used for the bodies?
Thanks man! Glad to hear that😄 for the paint mostly i use acrylic base type
Wow... Hello fellow msian!!!! Great work
Haha hello bro 😂
amazing but tell me the all video you do that process on paint or on the varnish ??
On the varnish of course😁
@@JHHobby thanks :)
@@JHHobby ah oh did you use a normal varnish (vallejo / tamiya / mr color) or a 2k/urethane varnish before the sanding process ??
That is all good and well, but keep in mind you have no idea how thick the factory paint is so the risk is getting too much paint removed on the high spots in the contours of the car. And the hand pressure used to polish is very subjective. I will just settle for the factory finish with whatever imperfections it contains. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax to get the shine beyond factory!
Yea its risky for beginners actually..but its all about experience..once you know to sand and polish it will never burn trough the paint..and because model cars is very small..it requires shinny and mirror paint finish to look good..thats my personal opinion😁
This is a must for ANY model painted with a gloss finish. No matter how your your paint job is, this will make it perfect. BUT, don't use this as an excuse to apply crappy paint jobs. First try to improve your paint job quality
A very informative video and I like the finish that you obtained, it looks great. The question that I have is it a 2K Clear that you are sanding? If I try to use 2000 or 3000 grit sand parer on a 2K clear then you will get scratches that the polishing compounds won't be able to remove.
Hi thanks for the feedback.. i use Mr.hobby clear not 2k. But i work in automotive paint shop too, with 2k clear and wetsand with grit 2000 is possible to remove by compound. Need a strong cut compound to removes the sandpaper marks. I can say its not easy for model cars because normally we use hand to polish🤣
Great tutorial! 0:28 Can you explain what cutting compound and finer compound/pre wax exactly is?
hi, not sure im able to put into words or not but i will try my best to explain.
Cutting compound/ Compound is use to cut the paint, it can remove heavy swirl marks, heavy scratches, etc. because it is a strong compound it will leave it's own mark on the paint job..therefore u need
a finer compound AKA a pre wax products to remove the strong compound marks
Another simple explanation :
Cutting compound/ Strong - can remove 2000grit sand marks
fine compound / weak - can remove 5000grit sand marks and cannot remove 2000grit sand marks
hope you understand hahaha
thanks a lot!
Looks amazing! When in the process of painting the body do you add the decals? Do you put them before the clearcoat?
I always clear coat over the decals. Just be careful as some decals will react with the clear. I give it a couple very light coats and let them tack up well before a couple heavier wet coats.
Mostly i will spray over the decal😁 unless i forgot hahaha
Many times a Dremel is far too fast, you can use a battery powered pet nail trimmer. Collets are cheap on ebay and you can control speed with your finger if needed
Only one word-MAGIC!!!
hahaha!
so u paint the body colour, clear coat it, and then do this process? so this is not removing the clearcoat? the orange peel that u smoothed out, isnt' that in the blue paint? or it's only in the clearcoat? sorry i'm new to all this. thanks!
Yes, this process is to smoothen then clearcoat even more
awesome tutorial, especially for a beginner like me! One question... the paint on my recent model has some small specs of dust in it (not too bad, but slightly noticeable) and I'm wondering should I be polishing or sanding the paint before adding the decals & clear coat? Or should I just add the decals & then clear coat & leave the polishing until then?
I'm using Tamiya TS paint from the can & will clear coat in TS-13
Thank you so much for the feedback! glad you find it useful =D normally its better to apply the decal before clear coat, this way you will have a protection over the decals. If you already apply the clear coat, it's ok to apply the decal later after you finish polishing =) hope this help
Thanks so much for this!
Thanks for the awesome video! I just started collecting 1:18 scale cars and im too terrified to take them apart. Can we do this without taking the car apart? Where did you get that mini grinder or can I use an electric toothbrush? I want my cars to look like this. Ive been mainly collecting autoart, some solido, GT spirit, topspeed. Do they all pretty much have the same paint? I just want to make sure im not going to ruin the car.
6:02: can we use a cloth instead of a grinde?
Yes you can😁
Hi, what happen if the orange peel happen in the base coat (color coat). Should i wetsand it before or just spray clear coat over it and then wetsand ? My thought is that if the orange peel happened in the color coat, wetsand the clear will not remove it, right ?
Normally i dont wetsand my base coat unless its really rough, then u can lightly sand abit and spray another layer of base coat just to cover up the sanding marks, and proceed to clearcoat😁
@@JHHobby thx for the reply. Hv a good day !
Hi,,,a question,,,
Polished it's before or after gloss clear coat,,,?
Because right after painting job,,I have the orange shape!.so do have to sender down,then clear coat,then polished?
In that order??
Yes only do polishing after clear coat😁 if your colour coat is too rough, try spraying it wetter next time, if you're tyring to save it, try sanding it lightly and spray another later or colour coat before clearcoating
Thank you - great tutorial. Are you doing this only to the clear coat, or the paint before the clear coat?
Thanks! Only do this with clearcoat😁
I want to make sure I understand what you're doing. Are you sanding the clear coat? Or the color coat?
Clearcoat😁 only polish clearcoat
@@JHHobby Thank you. So you don't worry about orange peel on the color coat?
Thank you for the helpful video. Do I need to sand the base coat before putting on the gloss clear coat? Thank you
Great tutorial
So is it necessary to buy both the compound and the polish or can I get away with buying one of them so my car doesn’t have orange peel but looks decent?
I can suggest getting the compound only😁 this meguairs compound is strong enough to cut yet dont leave heavy marks😁
Awesome