I've painted more models than I can count, even had some of my work featured in magazines....I can tell you... I'm impressed! This is a very well done video, thanks for all the info & tips! That's an amazing finish.
Several years ago I bought a couple of 1/25 scale resin model truck kits from a company that went out of business shortly thereafter. Since they are no longer in production, I'd like to assemble and paint them correctly. I'm not a modeler by any stretch of the imagination so perhaps I'll buy a cheap model car kit and practice on that before attempting the trucks. Thanks for all the helpful advice.
That’s a great plan. I recommend buying a couple level 2 models and practice on them before tacking your prize models. I recommend watching the 50 Ford convertible project I did last year. There are a lot of helpful tips from using putty to sanding and painting in that series.
Thank you David, I’ve found that in most cases you can tint your primer with some base coat to get you almost to your final color. For instance when I did the 50 Ford convertible, I tinted the white primer to cream.
Hey James! As a beginner, I was looking some tips how to improve my painting, and this video, instead others, were very clear and straight forward. Thank you! You got a new subscriber.
This is the "how to get a great finish" video I've been looking for! Thanks for doing such a fantastic job setting everything out so clearly and logically step by step.
Hi Terry, they are nice kits. Pricey but not crazy if you compare it to say a Nunu kit with the detail up set. Fit is better with an alpha in my opinion. The windows are a PITA but look amazing when finished.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m building a 1/25 Peterbuilt big rig. I’ve never done an auto finish on a model before (I build military aircraft) and this has been a great learning experience. Keep up the great work and thanks again.
Hello James. Just found your page…. and I gotta say, thank you. Finally, someone posted videos that make sense. Keep up the great work. It’s cool to see someone still using Cobra Colors. I have 4 or 5 color left from an order I made over 25 years ago.
Welcome to the channel Erick, thank you so much for watching and leaving me a comment. I’m really trying to make this channel the go to place for all things model car related whether it be shows, reviews, tutorials and builds. Something for everyone.
You can either buy the pipettes with the markings on them or the little mixing cups that I use have markings in milliliters on them. That’s how I keep track of paint to thinner. I purchased both on Amazon.
Top job James. One of my favorite 'shades'! You may need some subtitles with the drum roll, had to 'pause' to get the name! I've also gotta get one of those brushes!! All the best buddy and thank you.
I’m so glad that you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately that paint hue is now long gone. The other two colors were oriental red which is a Porsche color and Rosso Fioranto which is a Ferrari color. Get yourself a brush, money well spent.
Ihave enjoyed all of your various vids. I have a question. What type of paints can be used on ABS like resin 3D printed model bodies? Been building models for 62 years, this is my first printed body. I don't want o to mess my first one up. Thanks
Hi Lloyd, resin is easier than plastic because you don’t have to worry about crazing or attacking the surface. Make sure to use a good lacquer primer after smoothing the body and use a lacquer that is compatible with the primer you used. You didn’t say if you airbrush or rattle can, but I like to thin my acrylics with Mr Hobby Leveling thinner. It’s easier to mix shades that way. Good luck and let me know how your first project goes.
Absolutely beautiful !! Question...what paints (spray cans) do you recommend for painting fluorescent colors on metal ? I'm taking a jab at doing a 1/18 scale Tide car of Waltrip or Rudd. I'm just not sure what would be the best primer on metal. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Hi Alan, the primer would depend on the paint you plan to use over it. I suggest a white primer under florescent colors. You don’t have to worry about the paint attacking the metal so Tamiya primer should be fine. I hope this helped.
Thanks for this cool video James. Your videos are always informative, I always get something out of them. Now I'm inspired to step up my game! See ya next time... 👋
I use a 2k clear which is pretty tough. I start with a 6k and a 4k if the finish is rough. I don’t apply any pressure and always wet sand. Keep an eye out for corners edges and small details, they have less paint on them than flat areas.
Hello Lawrence, for this project I use No-Name brand 2k from SprayGunner.com it worked well and is pretty cheap. Thanks for watching and good luck with your builds.
Hi Smiddy, I have my own way of painting. I over thin my paint and shoot very light mist coats for lacquer. They are dry immediately. For most people 10-15 mins between medium wet coats is sufficient for flash off if lacquer and 2k clears. When it comes to clear, I shoot medium wet and allow 5 mins between coats.
Thanks Thomas, original video was 45 mins, I sped up all of the painting parts and had 26 mins then trimmed down the painting footage to make the video 11 mins.
i never use a air spray gun always use spray can dam now i see you a spray gun i want to learn how to use a air gun is it hard to learn how to use one and is it alot of money to get into it man i want to use one since i see you use one what dose it take to get into one i have to know please reply thank you so much for this video
Using an airbrush is not hard, it just takes practice. The one that I use costs $80 and you’ll need a compressor as well. The one I use was around $200. You’ll also need a spray booth which can be bought for around $100. Once you have all of that equipment, you can buy bottles of paint instead of cans and thin the paint to use very little paint to cover your models. I recommend watching more of my videos to see more of me using the airbrush.
Hi Redbox, thanks for watching. I use a Master Brand trigger airbrush G37 with a .35 needle and spray at 20 psi. I leave the settings alone and manipulate the speed and flow rate to get a mist or high flow rate.
If you would use a much larger airbrush and somewhat thicker paint, you will get an awesome result. Much easier than with a small airbrush. I suggest you use an Iwata LPH 80. Always spray with a fan pattern, never with a circle pattern.
Hi James about that gas in the paint with the bubbles after decanting. When you mix it and you put a toothpick slowly in it,the gas will be out of it faster. Move it a few times around will even speed up things. But i use a glass bottle,fill that up at 7 pm,putt the toothpick in. Then when i go to sleep put the lid on very light so that the rest of the gas can escape. Next morning,ready to use . Ball bearing in the bottle and pre thinned ready to use.And that Red looks awesome on that audi.Thoso Alpha kits are very nice, but to less parts for the money they are costing. For the same money i got a full detailled 1-12 Tamiya porshe kit with paints and all the needs to build it. Or that Big Blue Skyline you build before. Prefer those kits, I cannot justify the price of the Alpha kits,but the body,s are awesome.
Thanks for the tip! I totally understand your point about value of the Alpha Models. I felt the same way before I built a few. They are nice packages with the PE, carbon and precise fit and delicate castings. If you like the car, buy the kit.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Correct with that. But when you buy a Tamiya Senna McLaren with extra carbon and details sets you are going fast to the same price tag as the Alpha kits. The big advantage is that Alpha kits have newer models of cars now. The Honda Civic,The Audi A7 and i have bought my daily driver the Audi Rs 6 stationcar,i got a normal A6 s-line. And the kits are a absolute joy to build after sanding and painting. They really fall into place. No struggling or whatever.
Hi Big, I use a worn out toothbrush to scrub the panel lines after polishing. I’ve seen others load up their airbrush with water and power wash their panel lines with it. I don’t want water anywhere near my airbrush so I avoid it.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you so much for taking the time to answer, I will follow your suggestion and use a soft bristle toothbrush or maybe even a medium as long as it is not too stiff and won't scratch anything. Cheers!
Nice concise tutorial. Picked up quite a number of tips. A question, if I may…… What colour primer would you recommend for a lime green (Verde Mantis) finish?
Hi Charles, I use 20psi. Flash time is irrelevant because I shoot very thin layers for primer and base coats. Less than 5 mins? Clear on the other hand is a couple mins between coats. I overthin all of my paints so it doesn’t pool up and is dry almost immediately. I’ll do a video on it soon.
Very nice tutorial but i'm confused, i know if you must paint the window trim first you do this after clearcoat is fully cured and polishing the body, not after, beacuse they shine and that's wrong,the window trim is semi-gloss black, If am i wrong please correct me! Thank u!
You are correct for most cars. For this one, the windows fit flush to the body so there is no window seal black. For this car, I didn’t want any red to show under the windows therefore I painted the trim black and put the windows over it.
Thanks for watching. I used a .05 needle for the primer base and clear. The trim was done with my other airbrush at .02. I leave my compressor set for 20 psi at all times.
Hi BigChef, Cobra Colors is a line that has been off the market for 20+ years. It’s lacquer and I still have some left. Rosso Fiorante is a close match and was one of the spoons I shot.
great vid love this stuff waxed my 69 chevy11 20 coats of black lacquer w/poly glass coat that was the start fo ceramic coat wax lots of elbow grease but worth the effort for shur 😁🤩😎ps still puul my cars down almost bi weekly and clean then wax 🤣
So this airbrush is emulating the passes of the full size tool used by Kindig (etc)... especially the clearcoat. And then buff buff buff... kinda shocked there's no micro sized D/A polisher powered by the air line, but just a finger - surely not scale-appropriate haha.
Mirror shine is all about absolute flatness of the surface. That’s why I showed the inspection bit. I had about 2 hours of time using the 6k grit before I moved on to 8k.
Hi Tim, I could use the anti static brush between every coat but I only did before and after primer and before base and then again before clear. I’m suprised you don’t have one yet. 😁
I never even heard of it till now! The trick I was using was misting water on the walls from a spray bottle in my paint booth. Then, wiping body with rubbing alcohol.
You’ve definitely opened up my colour choices because I’m a very big spontaneous painter. I don’t always get 2 days in a row to build so i felt like decanting wasn’t for me.
It depends. Do you use acrylics because you don’t have adequate ventilation in your workspace? If you do have a good evacuation and a respirator you can thin acrylics with Mr Color Leveling thinner which will make your paint behave like a lacquer. You can shoot wet coats and they will stay shiny. If you have to use acrylics be prepared to set it aside for a month to let it fully cure then polish.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Im in the process of switching to acrylic as I do not have a ventilation system. So Im hoping I can go to an acrylic to help with fumes. Ive not begun airbrushing yet as Im trying to figure out what I can do, and if it is even possible. My plan was to prime and paint with vallejo, and get a gloss fiinish with Alclads Aqua Gloss as its apparently water based. Cannot get a clear idea if this can be sanded/buffed to get it to a nice gloss. What are your thoughts?
I've painted more models than I can count, even had some of my work featured in magazines....I can tell you... I'm impressed! This is a very well done video, thanks for all the info & tips! That's an amazing finish.
Thanks so much! I’ll do more in depth explanations later. This was an overview.
Several years ago I bought a couple of 1/25 scale resin model truck kits from a company that went out of business shortly thereafter. Since they are no longer in production, I'd like to assemble and paint them correctly. I'm not a modeler by any stretch of the imagination so perhaps I'll buy a cheap model car kit and practice on that before attempting the trucks. Thanks for all the helpful advice.
That’s a great plan. I recommend buying a couple level 2 models and practice on them before tacking your prize models. I recommend watching the 50 Ford convertible project I did last year. There are a lot of helpful tips from using putty to sanding and painting in that series.
That Tamiya pink primer is all I use on a red color, really makes them pop. Very nice James.
Thank you David, I’ve found that in most cases you can tint your primer with some base coat to get you almost to your final color. For instance when I did the 50 Ford convertible, I tinted the white primer to cream.
Hey James! As a beginner, I was looking some tips how to improve my painting, and this video, instead others, were very clear and straight forward. Thank you! You got a new subscriber.
Thank you so much! This video has taught me more of what you the viewing audience wants to see. I will do more like this.
Spot on JT! Love that color!🤔🫡🇺🇸
Thanks Kevin👍
This is the "how to get a great finish" video I've been looking for! Thanks for doing such a fantastic job setting everything out so clearly and logically step by step.
You’re so welcome Arthur, my pleasure. Thanks for watching 👍
Very nice work James….i should do one of those alpha models…thanks for sharing.
Hi Terry, they are nice kits. Pricey but not crazy if you compare it to say a Nunu kit with the detail up set. Fit is better with an alpha in my opinion. The windows are a PITA but look amazing when finished.
Nice tutorial on how to paint. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael, I’m glad that you enjoyed it 👍
Just started my first 1/64 scale model restore today. Not the best but it’s a start. Love the shine
That’s a tough scale to work with. Too many coats of paint and all detail is lost. Good luck to you!
That’s a beautiful finish. 👍👍
Thanks so much for watching👍
That's looking killer! Can't wait to see finished result. Really enjoyed building this kit.
Thank you so much! I’ll have the final video in about a week.
Seeing this car in person at the show earlier today was great! The flawless clear is why it took 1st in class.
Thanks for watching! It was a good show and I’m humbled to be recognized.
Wow!! I for sure need that tamyia brush!! Nice job james!!
Thanks brother!
Me too. Looking now.
Turned out great, looks like a great paint, I need to start using some higher grit papers. Lass polish time.
This was an experiment. I usually start with 4000 but I thought I might try 6000 first. Less deep scratches.
Fantastic work James real rich color 👍👍
Thank you so much for watching 👍 I appreciate your kind words!
@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m building a 1/25 Peterbuilt big rig. I’ve never done an auto finish on a model before (I build military aircraft) and this has been a great learning experience. Keep up the great work and thanks again.
@thebobloblawshow8832 good luck with your build. I’d be lost weathering something to look used and old.😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment way easier than you think. You should give it a go. 👍👍
Hey buddy I'm 13 years old and I love model cars right now I'm working on a remote control 540i BMW
That’s a great car! Good luck with your project, thanks for watching 👍
Really nice work. Always good to see how others perform this task.
Thanks for watching Don👍
Very informative, I need to check out that brush. Have been using a old school tack rag for the dust bunnies.
It’s worth buying Chuck, thanks for watching 👍
Wow what a nice color...and crisp finish too !
Thank you 👍
Great tutorial I'm more of a rattle can builder but do own a few air brushes need to spend time learning how to use them.
You’ll find that once you perfect your airbrush skills you’ll never go back to rattle can. Keep practicing and thanks for watching 👍
Thanks Mr. James for another great lecture video from you!!! 👌👌👌
Thanks so much Willy 👍
Hello James. Just found your page…. and I gotta say, thank you. Finally, someone posted videos that make sense. Keep up the great work.
It’s cool to see someone still using Cobra Colors. I have 4 or 5 color left from an order I made over 25 years ago.
Welcome to the channel Erick, thank you so much for watching and leaving me a comment. I’m really trying to make this channel the go to place for all things model car related whether it be shows, reviews, tutorials and builds. Something for everyone.
Lovely update on the Audi there James, really nice and deep shine 👍🏼 Thanks for sharing all the info with us all 😊
Thanks for watching Karl and good luck with your Supra👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you James 😊👍🏼
Excellent tutorial! Just what I've been looking for. The color and finish look amazing!
Question: Where did you get that scale for the paint/thinner?
You can either buy the pipettes with the markings on them or the little mixing cups that I use have markings in milliliters on them. That’s how I keep track of paint to thinner. I purchased both on Amazon.
Great instructional video. Nice, clear images and very easy to understand and follow.Thanks so much for sharing!
Thank you so much for watching and leaving me a comment. I appreciate it 👍
Top job James. One of my favorite 'shades'! You may need some subtitles with the drum roll, had to 'pause' to get the name! I've also gotta get one of those brushes!! All the best buddy and thank you.
I’m so glad that you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately that paint hue is now long gone. The other two colors were oriental red which is a Porsche color and Rosso Fioranto which is a Ferrari color. Get yourself a brush, money well spent.
WoW Very Nice, Thank You.
Thanks for watching👍
Ihave enjoyed all of your various vids. I have a question. What type of paints can be used on ABS like resin 3D printed model bodies? Been building models for 62 years, this is my first printed body. I don't want o
to mess my first one up. Thanks
Hi Lloyd, resin is easier than plastic because you don’t have to worry about crazing or attacking the surface. Make sure to use a good lacquer primer after smoothing the body and use a lacquer that is compatible with the primer you used. You didn’t say if you airbrush or rattle can, but I like to thin my acrylics with Mr Hobby Leveling thinner. It’s easier to mix shades that way. Good luck and let me know how your first project goes.
Hi James, great video. Can you tell me your air pressures for the different coats that you use? Thanks
Thank you for watching Shawn. I always keep the pressure at 20 psi but adjust coverage with speed and distance of passes across the body.
Love the tip on ceramic coating. I need to try that
Absolutely, it’s good stuff. Thanks for watching 👍
What a awesome shine sir very very cool thank you for sharing your process
Of course Eddie, I’ll do more in depth videos on how I did each step later. Thanks for watching 👍
Absolutely beautiful !! Question...what paints (spray cans) do you recommend for painting fluorescent colors on metal ? I'm taking a jab at doing a 1/18 scale Tide car of Waltrip or Rudd. I'm just not sure what would be the best primer on metal. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Hi Alan, the primer would depend on the paint you plan to use over it. I suggest a white primer under florescent colors. You don’t have to worry about the paint attacking the metal so Tamiya primer should be fine. I hope this helped.
Nice job James. Love the shade of red. I have a makeup brush, very soft, most of the time I forget to use it. LOL
Thanks Terry, I have a makeup brush too but it seems to cause static. The Tamiya one is anti static. I recommend getting one.
Thanks for this cool video James. Your videos are always informative, I always
get something out of them. Now I'm inspired to step up my game! See ya next
time... 👋
Thanks for your support Jeff! I appreciate you man!👍
Great video ! Nice and simple !
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it. I’ll do more in depth videos soon.
Beautiful work James!
Thank you so much Frank 👍
When you sand after coat, what s your technic to avoid wiping out the paint on edges and small areas? I always damage them 😂
I use a 2k clear which is pretty tough. I start with a 6k and a 4k if the finish is rough. I don’t apply any pressure and always wet sand. Keep an eye out for corners edges and small details, they have less paint on them than flat areas.
Beautiful, love the result. What 2k did you use? I’ve started to get into car kits and trying to achieve that mirror shine “showroom” look
Hello Lawrence, for this project I use No-Name brand 2k from SprayGunner.com it worked well and is pretty cheap. Thanks for watching and good luck with your builds.
Looks great .What are the times you wait between coats?
Hi Smiddy, I have my own way of painting. I over thin my paint and shoot very light mist coats for lacquer. They are dry immediately. For most people 10-15 mins between medium wet coats is sufficient for flash off if lacquer and 2k clears. When it comes to clear, I shoot medium wet and allow 5 mins between coats.
Wow that looks amazing
Thanks Travis 👍
Great video, love the speed of it .
Thanks Thomas, original video was 45 mins, I sped up all of the painting parts and had 26 mins then trimmed down the painting footage to make the video 11 mins.
i never use a air spray gun always use spray can dam now i see you a spray gun i want to learn how to use a air gun is it hard to learn how to use one and is it alot of money to get into it man i want to use one since i see you use one what dose it take to get into one i have to know please reply thank you so much for this video
Using an airbrush is not hard, it just takes practice. The one that I use costs $80 and you’ll need a compressor as well. The one I use was around $200. You’ll also need a spray booth which can be bought for around $100. Once you have all of that equipment, you can buy bottles of paint instead of cans and thin the paint to use very little paint to cover your models. I recommend watching more of my videos to see more of me using the airbrush.
Great paintjob! Can I ask what is your airbrush setup?
Hi Redbox, thanks for watching. I use a Master Brand trigger airbrush G37 with a .35 needle and spray at 20 psi. I leave the settings alone and manipulate the speed and flow rate to get a mist or high flow rate.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thank you!!
If you would use a much larger airbrush and somewhat thicker paint, you will get an awesome result. Much easier than with a small airbrush.
I suggest you use an Iwata LPH 80. Always spray with a fan pattern, never with a circle pattern.
Thanks for watching 👍
Excellent, James. What brand is that ceramic compound you used?
That was Hasegawa ceramic to see on the bottle. But Tamiya ceramic is also very good.
I bought the Hasegawa ceramic compound in Japan but it is available from Amazon USA. It isn’t cheap but you don’t need much..
I _need_ one of those brushes.
Now that I use one, I wish I had bought one years ago. Get one!
Hi James about that gas in the paint with the bubbles after decanting. When you mix it and you put a toothpick slowly in it,the gas will be out of it faster. Move it a few times around will even speed up things. But i use a glass bottle,fill that up at 7 pm,putt the toothpick in. Then when i go to sleep put the lid on very light so that the rest of the gas can escape. Next morning,ready to use . Ball bearing in the bottle and pre thinned ready to use.And that Red looks awesome on that audi.Thoso Alpha kits are very nice, but to less parts for the money they are costing. For the same money i got a full detailled 1-12 Tamiya porshe kit with paints and all the needs to build it. Or that Big Blue Skyline you build before. Prefer those kits, I cannot justify the price of the Alpha kits,but the body,s are awesome.
Thanks for the tip! I totally understand your point about value of the Alpha Models. I felt the same way before I built a few. They are nice packages with the PE, carbon and precise fit and delicate castings. If you like the car, buy the kit.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Correct with that. But when you buy a Tamiya Senna McLaren with extra carbon and details sets you are going fast to the same price tag as the Alpha kits. The big advantage is that Alpha kits have newer models of cars now. The Honda Civic,The Audi A7 and i have bought my daily driver the Audi Rs 6 stationcar,i got a normal A6 s-line. And the kits are a absolute joy to build after sanding and painting. They really fall into place. No struggling or whatever.
@@janvanrenselaar5998 I agree with you 100%
Beautiful work James !! Very cool tips!!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate your support 👍
As a new model builder, after you have gotten to the final step of compound polishing how do you get the residual out of the scribe lines etc.
Hi Big, I use a worn out toothbrush to scrub the panel lines after polishing. I’ve seen others load up their airbrush with water and power wash their panel lines with it. I don’t want water anywhere near my airbrush so I avoid it.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you so much for taking the time to answer, I will follow your suggestion and use a soft bristle toothbrush or maybe even a medium as long as it is not too stiff and won't scratch anything. Cheers!
@BigJKtm of course! My pleasure to help out.
Nice concise tutorial. Picked up quite a number of tips.
A question, if I may……
What colour primer would you recommend for a lime green (Verde Mantis) finish?
Hi Clyde, thanks for watching. if you want to have an exact match for the Color I would use a white base.
Thanks for that. My next build is the Aoshima Aventador.
@clydelourensz4077 I’ve had the roadster in my stash for a long time. Someday….
Yep. Agreed. Very nice shine! Absolute perfect. thank you very much for this Video! ;)
Thanks for your kind words, I appreciate your support 👍
SSSSMOOOTH job my friend
Thank you Lindsay, I appreciate your support sir😁
What's your air compression sitting at, and what's the flash time between your coats
Hi Charles, I use 20psi. Flash time is irrelevant because I shoot very thin layers for primer and base coats. Less than 5 mins? Clear on the other hand is a couple mins between coats. I overthin all of my paints so it doesn’t pool up and is dry almost immediately. I’ll do a video on it soon.
Great tutorial James ❤😊
Thanks brother ❤️
Very good video. How much time do you allow between coats? Thank you
Thanks for watching. Approximately 5-10 mins between coats.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thank you sir!
Very nice tutorial but i'm confused, i know if you must paint the window trim first you do this after clearcoat is fully cured and polishing the body, not after, beacuse they shine and that's wrong,the window trim is semi-gloss black, If am i wrong please correct me!
Thank u!
You are correct for most cars. For this one, the windows fit flush to the body so there is no window seal black. For this car, I didn’t want any red to show under the windows therefore I painted the trim black and put the windows over it.
Great video. What size needle was used to airbrush the 2k clear and at what p.s.i?
Thanks for watching. I used a .05 needle for the primer base and clear. The trim was done with my other airbrush at .02. I leave my compressor set for 20 psi at all times.
Great looking paint work James👍👍 where might one acquire those Cobra Colors paint?
Hi BigChef, Cobra Colors is a line that has been off the market for 20+ years. It’s lacquer and I still have some left. Rosso Fiorante is a close match and was one of the spoons I shot.
@@ScaleModelExperiment those were some good looking colors. I kinda collect paint lines 😱
@bigchef2112 I’ve slowed down on buying paint. I used to buy a lot!
Look's great! What brand 2K clear did you use? Looking to try my first 2K, soon.
Thank you. For this one I used no-name brand 2k clear from SprayGunner.com it’s cheap but good quality.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks! Says out of stock, guess I'll keep looking. I was considering an automotive band, for the size to cost ratio.
Thanks James. Great tips.
Thanks Rick👍
Great video James!!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks Brother! I appreciate you man!
Thank you so much for this demo! Hey, are you also decanting the 2K clear from spray paint cans?
Hi Jimmy, no the 2k clear is from No-name brand at SprayGunner.com. It’s pretty cheap and you get a lot for the money.
Thank you so much,@@ScaleModelExperiment !
Nice video and clean work!
Thank you so much for watching and leaving me a comment👍
What is the brand of pin vice you use in preparing the car body?
Hi David, I use a Tamiya brand pin vice. It’s not fancy but it works fine.
Nice what Is type of 2 k clear you use ? Where do you get the sanding Sponge.
I’m currently using no-name 2k from Spray gunner dot com. The sanding sponge is from Tamiya 3k grit. Thanks for watching 👍
great vid love this stuff waxed my 69 chevy11 20 coats of black lacquer w/poly glass coat that was the start fo ceramic coat wax lots of elbow grease but worth the effort for shur 😁🤩😎ps still puul my cars down almost bi weekly and clean then wax 🤣
Awesome Scooter, thanks for watching👍
Tamiya spray can primers are so good I don't bother to decant it.
Hi Chad, I like to thin them and airbrush for even finer control. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.
So this airbrush is emulating the passes of the full size tool used by Kindig (etc)... especially the clearcoat.
And then buff buff buff... kinda shocked there's no micro sized D/A polisher powered by the air line, but just a finger - surely not scale-appropriate haha.
I do have a micro buffer. I didn’t use it this time. 😁
Really cool tutorial 👍
Thanks so much GFIP! I appreciate your support 👍
this mirror shine part is the biggest challenge to me 😂
Mirror shine is all about absolute flatness of the surface. That’s why I showed the inspection bit. I had about 2 hours of time using the 6k grit before I moved on to 8k.
@@ScaleModelExperiment 2 hours? I was doubtful if I was supposed to go over 2 hours for the sanding and polishing process. X)
Time well spent with decals and polishing. When I hurry doing either i regret it.
Awesome!!!
Thank you Auntie Lynn ❤️
thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching Sean!
what is your airbrush setup?? than kyou
Hi Tom, I use a Master g37 with a .05 needle and shoot at 20 psi. The trim black was my other master at .02 needle same pressure.
Very nice.
Thank you so much Marcelo👍
question, if you put clearcoat on top will it ruin the mirror finish?
I clear coated it with 2k clear. That is the mirror finish.
@@ScaleModelExperiment oh great, thanks for the info :)
How long do you let the 2k harden before wet sanding?
Hi Johnathan, I like to let 2k cure for 2 days minimum before wet sanding. I was working on the interior while I waited.
Do you use that brush in-between every paint step?
Hi Tim, I could use the anti static brush between every coat but I only did before and after primer and before base and then again before clear. I’m suprised you don’t have one yet. 😁
I never even heard of it till now! The trick I was using was misting water on the walls from a spray bottle in my paint booth. Then, wiping body with rubbing alcohol.
Is there anywhere to buy small amounts of 2k clear that isn't in a rattle can?
Yes, I buy no-name band from
Spraygunner.com 2k. It comes in a small amount and is reasonably priced.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you! I found it, and see that it comes with reducer. Much appreciated!
@NotMorganFreeman. Of course. I like to overthin it myself 4:1:2 ratio.
I always thought you had to let it degas overnight. Guess I’m wrong.
You can shoot the paint ASAP if you want to in thin coats. Problem is that it likes to overflow the cup 😁
You’ve definitely opened up my colour choices because I’m a very big spontaneous painter. I don’t always get 2 days in a row to build so i felt like decanting wasn’t for me.
@garykelly8812 awesome!
Is anything like this remotely possible with acrylics????
It depends. Do you use acrylics because you don’t have adequate ventilation in your workspace? If you do have a good evacuation and a respirator you can thin acrylics with Mr Color Leveling thinner which will make your paint behave like a lacquer. You can shoot wet coats and they will stay shiny. If you have to use acrylics be prepared to set it aside for a month to let it fully cure then polish.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Im in the process of switching to acrylic as I do not have a ventilation system. So Im hoping I can go to an acrylic to help with fumes. Ive not begun airbrushing yet as Im trying to figure out what I can do, and if it is even possible. My plan was to prime and paint with vallejo, and get a gloss fiinish with Alclads Aqua Gloss as its apparently water based. Cannot get a clear idea if this can be sanded/buffed to get it to a nice gloss. What are your thoughts?
@seans4018 sorry I don’t have any experience with working with water based clears. I suspect that they won’t give you the same results I’m getting.
@ScaleModelExperiment could you tell how long are the time delays between each coat?
I give each coat 15-20 mins to flash off before laying another coat.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thanks for quick answer ! 🙂