Worlds Largest OpenRC F1 Car - Phase 1 // 3D Printing the Parts (Matterhackers BUILD PLA / Pro Flex)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- The OpenRC F1 fully 3d printed remote controlled car is a project by Daniel Noree. The idea is to print all the pieces needed for the car, then add electronics, to have yourself a custom built rc car. I took it a step further and printed everything at 4x scale!
1,113 HOURS OF PRINTING
47 POUNDS OF FILAMENT
Phase 1: Printing All the Parts
Phase 2: Gluing All the Parts
Phase 3: Assembling All the Parts
Phase 4: Adding RC Components
OpenRC Project: danielnoree.com/the-openrc-f1-...
Here is what I used to print it:
Matterhackers BUILD PLA: 3d.pn/mhbuild
Matterhackers PRO FLEX: 3d.pn/mhflex
Magigoo: 3d.pn/magigoo
Magigoo (Amazon): amzn.to/2GcwnGk
Ultimaker 3: 3d.pn/um3
Prusa i3 mk3: 3d.pn/prusa
Lulzbot TAZ6: 3d.pn/taz6
- with MOARstruder: 3d.pn/moarstruder
BCN3D Sigma R17: 3d.pn/sigma
Raise3D N2+: 3d.pn/raise3d
gCreate gMax 1.5XT+: gcreate.com
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Phase 4: Get your kids to ride it!🏎️
How did you know? :)
RCLifeOn help him make it an rc
Lander Vermeulen not RC, put a real engine in or at least an electric motor and then the kids can drive it.
and since when did you comment about your rivals (wink)
RCLifeOn I was about to comment the same thing! Wow, my favourite youtuber commenting on my secont favorite one's video!
This guy looks like he hasn't slept since he started printing this
Okay, most people that say I look tired I tolerate. BUT YOU GOOD SIR, THAT was funny! You get a heart.
Landon Hall you're right
Seriously, take a nap Joel 😛
why did you make all the joints between the pieces flat? if you gave them an interlocking shape they would keep some strength when you glue them together. That's what I do, of course it takes a little extra time to plan out the interlocking shape between but you don't have to worry as much about mechanical strength.
He would have had to do some design on the STL files. Not sure Meshmixer would let you produce a join with teeth.
With the right glue the joins will still be stronger than the rest of the part. But it certainly would make it easier to line them up correctly.
Rectangle extrude on one side, subtraction on the other (0.2mm larger )
He needs a huge Kreg jig now !
Fro chassis flat overlap joints, peg/dowel and hole for axel, and a either a flat overlap on the front fairing or even a mortis tension joint would work.
Who remembers this ad againt piracy: Would you download a car if you could? ......
yeah i would
3D printing a car is actually on my bucket list. Seriously.
or 3D print female mo(u)lds for resin transfer mo(u)lding or similar.
kadmow first internet user i’ve ever seen who is so cautious about angry people they spell moulding like mo(u)lding
@Heavily armed squid
Just making a spelling Nazi type joke in text...
At least it accounts for all dictionaries. jk.
Happy to be unique.
This is freaking amazing project Joel!!! Can't wait for the next phase!
Y'know, I bet joining those huge parts would be a perfect application for brass threaded inserts. It'd take more detailed editing of the models when splitting. like adding holes to plunge the inserts into, slots for cam nuts, a place to stick a screwdriver, etc, but I bet the same methods used to assemble flat-pack furniture would work well for joining giant printed parts.
...Great. This is how I'll wind up printing a server rack just to see if I can.
Hey Joel. I'm the guy that build Zarya's Particle Cannon for the Hacksmith. (check it out on TH-cam) It was a 24kg 3D print on the Taz 6 Moarstruder that had to hold a decent amount of weight. My lessons learned from it were that no amount of cyanoacrylate and resin (XTC 3D) will increase layer bonding strength enough to bear the kinetic weight of the object. (when you pick it up by one end, or it resonates while driving) In my case, I welded together an internal frame structure from steel to distribute the load. If I were to build it again, I would wrap the 3d printed assemblies in fiberglass, as it adds a huge amount of strength for it's weight. Can't wait to see this built. Good luck!
Epic print! Looking forward to the final model. I am impressed how well the pieces seems to fit together without any gaps. I have seen big prints before and it always seems to be some gap issues due to orientation and curling
This channel just got more awesome by 400%
I really like your cr10 honest review 😂
I think it's because the car was 400% haha. Good reply.
"1100 Hours" should be a movie title.
"Coming soon, in 45 days"
1113*
that light blue is beautiful! the lines in it on camera look amazing...almost like some sort of gem stone
Love it when you go through the chain of thought and state what you need to learn in order to make a better project, instead of just going on with what you have/know already.
That needs to be spread more. I need to do that more often h5
You can add strength to the joints using Fibreglass cloth and clear resin, ask Bill from Punished Props, also would love to see this painted, hahaha
I would have bondo’d the whole thing together
Really amazing man!
great work , I start my big 3d build in two months . and am learning a lot from you . With over 700 parts to print ,watching your youtube has helped my out a lot .
The entire open RC F1 series is sooo good! My son and I keep watching them. Easily my favorite 3dPN video. Great work Joel! Keep pushing the envelope! Can't wait to see this thing run. High Five!
I love it!
JohnnyQ90 Hey Johnny!
Love you videos
"You gotta get bigger nuts. 😏" Lmao! Great process joel, cant wait to see what motor you end up using.
The wall is fixed! Great looking set. Seems like your getting more sleep and back to your energetic enthusiastic self. For attaching parts I drill holes and use either fiberglass rod and resin if flexibility is needed or wooden dowel and epoxy for rigid parts. Open RC model looks AMAZING!
Thanks for the tip about the flexible materials. I will let others at school know about it
You could epoxy a layer of fiberglass mat onto that rear chassis....
I bet the whole floorpan would highly benefit from that !
Great idea, but I want to expand to the full car epoxy and kevlar mat ;)
Just the kind of comment I was looking for. No plastic thingy, fiberglass all the way.
Just split the parts in Fusion360, make an assembly and then add dowls. Super easy and will fix an easier assembly and structural toughness
watch 18:25
You can’t just split and cut STL files in fusion....
Thank you, Joel, for fixing at least some of the holes in the wall. Looks good! There are still some left... :-)
15:44 That's a good thing to do no matter what your working on. You work on a book, same thing. Work on a drawing, same thing. Do a job interview, same thing. It really does help:) I first learned about it in photography:D You learn a lot that way. Because then you know where to do in the future:)
you should use fiber glas/carbon for the skinning
You should get Ivan Miranda over and work on getting it moving
I love that dude!
I do too,
next screw drive tank 400%
3D Printing Nerd RCLifeOn, 3D printing Nerd, and Ivan Miranda collaboration for a driveable 3d printed F1 go kart, which an adult can drive. Maybe Peter Sripol could help for the motor part too, or even better, Colin Furze!
@@tiberiocellini3641 Colin Furze would add 200kg of rockets and a Hayabusa engine to it. Rip it apart but it would be a lot of fun to drive for 4 seconds...
I recently got myself some matterhackers build PLA, and it is WAY better than Hatchbox PLA. I love it.
One suggestion, if you make your slices/joints at an angle it gives you a lot more surface area for epoxy and will add strength.
You could also make the slices like puzzle joints or dovetail. That would be really nice.
Love the project!
Check out Japanese dovetail techniques. Might be something worth implementing for adjoining pieces.
That looks big enough to use actual gokart tyres.
Michael Scholtz *looks at go kart in shed* yep, pretty sure it is big enough for actual tyres
Somebody has to try this!
tires*
Don't be an ass. Both are correct.
Lol I have to try that now
Hey Joel I always love watching your videos but this is crazy huge prints can't wait to see it finished. When you finish it I wonder if you would even be able to fit in it. Keep up the awesome work Joel
Genius, that is all. Brilliance of a wonderful creation brought to an almost life like scale! Congrats on yet another successful project!
Why stop here, if this works do 5 or 6x scale and make it a go kart
James Hewitt maybe he could use like sdome of the higher tech stuff where you can use metal in a 3d printer that would be awesome good idea
ask koniegseg to titanium print some stuff?
Uh-oh he liked, you gave him an idea
Because already at this scale it is way more expensive than an actual go cart and probably just as heavy :D This is stupidity in it's final form.
Glad im not paying your power bill joel... Nice one...
Amazing Joel, 400 seams really amazing but 500 would get an small kind inside!! Imagine how cool this would be!!! Thanks for this and to be an awesome guy in this community.
Take care. Paulo
I was flabbergasted when you run fun King 3DS live stream the other day showing off those tires. I can't wait to see this thing all assembled and running. another good video Joel, thank you very much for sharing. Keep up the good work. Have a wonderful day. God bless
This take the "you wouldn't download a car" meme to a whole new level.
Why don’t you print same parts with some sort of joints
Psycho Nolifer he only sliced those parts, you need to ask Daniel if he were to add some joints.
I love it! I'm excited to see you and Bill work on this beaute!
It is not freakin fantastic, it is epic!!!! Now combine old school with new. hand drill and dowel rods (wood, plastic or metal) along with your choice of glues... Now go one more of todays trends, dip it or create a wrap for it. That leaves you with looks and a somewhat exoskeleton!!! SUPER GREAT JOB, I CANT WAIT TO SEE THE END PRODUCT..,,heck you could even venture into all wheel drive... This is the dreams we had growing uo in a RC family and AMA. My hat is off to you and your team!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
Maybe try to reach out to hobbyking and maybe they can help you with the electronics!
Well the only way to one up this is to print your own car.
Ok ....love this !!!!! Looks like it was a super fun project !!
A tip to Joel (or anybody else watching) from the car community. Next time you have to slip two parts together that are very tight fitting like the tires onto the wheels use a little bit of dish soap with warm water. Once the mixture dries it will no longer be lubricated and the two parts will hold together quite well.
1100 hours to print it?
Thats
45 straight days of printing. And since you probably didn't print it for 45 days straight, add a few more days and thats easily 2 months of time to print this...
Crazy, right?
should have edited the files to insert some dowels to connect the parts
Exactly what I was thinking as I was watching.
He mentions that at 18:00ish
Joel, a note for the future massive build. Consider using some wood joinery joints rather than butt joints. It shouldn't be much more difficult to create say a mortise and tenon or perhaps even a dovetail joint. This would A. make glue-ups much easier B. the Joints will be much stronger. You could also use a peg system.
Great job as always and thank you.
it really is amazing how well it works
You look so tired friend lol
Miguel Alcala cocaine is a hell of a drug.
When watching this on 144p you look like a geek version of Lionel Messi.. :)
he looks like my dads friend merged with messi
Excellent work sir. This is incredible
You are crazy! Don't ever change. Best. 3D printing. Channel. Ever!
Hygroscopic
I had an idea for when you have multiple prints in risk of running out of filament. Get some cheap Flood Alarms and replace the electrical contacts with two pieces of metal designed to slide along the filament by gently pinching it. As soon as they slip off the end of the filament they'll make contact with each other and set off the alarm.
Awesome, cant wait to see it done!
@13:04 Edward Gaffarhands.
All jokes aside, that is pretty dang impressive! And the level of commitment! Was always interested in the Open RC stuff, now I'm inspired to print one.
Wow! This is a crazy build! I love it!
Back to normal!, this is the channel we all know and love
Wow, those are huge prints!
Axle...that threaded rod from the link sword...
Man...when you go big..you go BIIIIIG!!! So cool!
Awesome build Joel. Love the use of different colours. Cheers, Aaron.
In woodworking, when you are connecting parts, especially if it is load-bearing, you want to increase the surface area of the glue, and it is best to have one part go into the other. A mortise and tenon, for example. On these parts, at the very least, I would create diagonal surfaces between them. You could also create a V-line that slots together. A V-line would create more glue surface and would give you alignment registration in one axis. If you cut off the ends of the V-line, that would give you alignment registration in 2 axes.
Wow wow wow!! Awesome project!! By far the best 3d print of all time
My son and I loved this episode Joel! Thank you! High five!!
this is like 3D printting go car......I'm so happy even though knuckles could not find the way anywhere else than in our hearts (R.I.P knuckles 2013-2018)
Watching this makes me glad I'm also a woodworker, its given me a great understanding of joinery. With a little bit of modelling you could have added scarf joints, rabbet joints, or mortise and tennons to your sliced pieces to get much stronger joints.
That's very correct, but, this wasn't an exercise in strength, and simple slices were what was intended for this. If I were to do this again, and not go for this exact style, you bet I would follow more of a woodworkers idea and added better joining surfaces!
OMG! I can't wait to see the rest of the project. Joel you're amazing... as usual. Fab from Reunion Island.
Watching this made me go beastmode thank you 3D man!
Amazing work Joel! It even goes better than a Honda-powered F1 car.
Rather interesting how just a day or so ago Prusa put out a video showing exactly how to add dowel rods to the sliced chunks in meshmixer.
Awesome project by the way!
Great looking Project. Demonstrates what 3D Printing can do.
For parts printed in sections, I often add "registration holes" for inserting tiny (1.5 - 2mm) stainless steel pins after the fact.
It is an advantage to print parts for which one has the original model, adding holes which line up in SW or Fusion360 is fairly simple (just a bidirectional hole / extruded cut) for most models.
For parts which don't need to be massively strong, you could use the model to Vacuum-form polycarb or acrylic (less messy than fibreglass) shells to use on the finished car - yes undersizing the original print to allow for the finished thickness of the shell is an issue, you can't just print it smaller- that would cut down on finished weight a whole lot..
Put a 45 degree bevel on all of your joints and use a 3d pen to plastic weld them together. I just did that for a project and it works absolutely amazing
You should have printed a hex socket in the middle part of the axle and a hex boss on the outside peices that go inside the socket for better torque transfer and overall higher strength.
This is awesome! Wow! Love it 😍😍
Outstanding.
Awesome build, Joel! To solve the axle issue, I would think about using a drill press and drill a hole down the length of the entire axle and use a piece of smooth rod that you could get from a local hardware store. Once the Ross is inserted, you could glue the pieces together. That should provide plenty of rigidity and support.
Holy shoot! This thing is massive! Awesome! Cant wait to see it assembled :D
1100+ hrs of printing, You sir are a Stallion!
This is insane!!!. One day, I am going to have the "nuts" to build something on this scale. I will of course be using MatterHackers also. They are the best.
Fascinating
For the rear axle, I suggest you reprint the pieces but with a square hole on the mating surfaces and then print a tiny cube that you put inside so you'll have what's called an "obstacle power transmission" wich will hold way better than just glue
With those big flat plates, I think you'll probably have a better chance of cutting it out of plywood to keep the strength in stuff like the chassis. Awesome work! Big fan!
Love it jole you should put a steel bar between pieces of the back Axel
Love the colors
8:18 If you're breaking up a scaled up model like that you can afford to reduce the thickness in places without compromising the integrity of the build.
I'd use overlapping joints (1/2 thickness overlaps where the two parts meet).
You'll have an increased glue surface for strength
It would help eliminate with the single failure point (torque about the center join)
You'd also preserve the bolt hold (it would go through each overlap on the joint)
There are quite a few places that an overlap would add strength to the build.
Really looking forward to seeing the end result
I look forward to Phase 4; large r/c models are my jam...
Well done
Unfreakingbelievable Joel! There's just not much more I can say. I'm speechless. Wow!
I know that this comment will never be seen for a video over a year old, but with a small amount of drilling and using either metal or printed dowels would add so much support to a lot of those pieces.
It’s seen - and you’re right!
this is amazing!!
wow thats so awesome
If you ever go for a print this big again I would look at how wood workers would tackle parts like this. Like you said dowels would have been a good idea. There is also biscuits which would be a easy print. You might even be able to use a biscuit joiner on the wing and floor. Threaded rod can do great things if you plan the holes out and can even be easily hidden.
You need to try Airwolf3D Wolfbite NANO adhesive for all PLA! I love their line of adhesives, i use the reg for ABS/TPU/TPE, their Mega for Nylon and the Nitro for PC. Awesome stuff!
Joel, when you split the axle if you inserted matching holes in the center of each you could use a printed pin to strengthen the joint. Angus Deveson at Maker's Muse has a video in his meshmixer series dealing with this exact issue.
Wow that is so cool Joel
The mixed color scheme is nice
On any structural joints you are worried about just drill a hole in each side and "PIN" it. A pin of any material will keep sheer forces from being placed on the joint and add cubic inches to the bonding surface. Also use something like an 80-120 grit sand paper on the surface area.
Great energy! You kept things interesting the entire video
Thank you VERY VERY MUCH!
3D Printing Nerd I don’t know a lot about 3d printing but this looks like a fun build
I would love to have a 3d printed f1 front wing like that! That would make a sick display piece for any f1 fanatics collection.